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Geo A Crofutt, Prcs. 



H. M, White, Secy. 



Chas. E. Tuerk, Treas. 




Revised Annually. 100 Illustrations. Standard Authority. 

Some Opinions.— Ths Odd Fellows Excursion Party said, "It is to the traveler ou. 
the Pacific Road what the compass is to the mariner at sea." 



— It is one of the most sensible, practical 
guide-books we ever found. It tells the 
traveler just what he ought to know, and 
leaves out useless matter. We hive verified 
the statement by actual travel'. On a trip to 
the Pacific it is just what is wanted. — Even- 
ing Tribune, St. Louis, Mo. 

— Mr. Crofutt has now a most enviable 
reputation for his guide, which is the most 
concise and valuable publication of the 
kind ever produced in this country. — Times, 
Kansas City, Mo. 

— It is a standard work which cannot 
be surpassed in its line:— News, Denver, 
Col. 



— It is the most valuable publication of 
the kind ever issued, and should meet with 
a large sale.— Register, Central City, Col. 

—Being personally acquainted with the 
routes, we unhesitatingly commend the 
book to all who would improve to the ut- 
most the advantages of an overland trip. — 
Presbyterian, Denver, Col. 

—What Crofutt has left lantold in his 
New Overland Tourist seems unneces- 
sary for the traveler to know; it's up to 
date, it describes with telegraphic concise- 
ness. — The American Bookseller, N. Y. 



SOME OPINIONS OF THE " OVERLAND" 



— We took great interest in the perusal 
of this new American guide book ; it con- 
tains a vast amount of information, and we 
should judge the writer to be a person per- 
fectly familiar with the whole country trav- 
ersed by the Pacific Railway, as the most 
important features of each particular lo- 
cality, and objects of interest, are described 
in a brief, judicious and carefully prepared 
sketch, apparently aiming rather at a clear 
and truthful statement, than an over- 
drawn picture. The condensed form and 
fund of valuable information contained in 
this little volume is really wonderful — 
The TimeS) London, England. 

— Froin the fullness and variety of its in- 
formation, and the matter of fact way in 
which it is communicated, gives a more 
extensive insight into the almost inexhaust- 
ible resources of the far West than any 
work we hstve heretofore seen. The book 
is excessively interesting, crammed with 
facts, profusely illustrated with maps and 
engravings, and in short a complete Vade 
Mecum over an enormus line, which is a 
marvel even in these days of engineering 
triumphs. — The London and China Tele- 
graph, London, Eng. 

— The official organ of the Mormon 
Church, the Deseret News, Salt Lake City, 
says: It is just such a guide as is needed 
by all travelers on the Great Pacific Rail- 
road. It is very different from the usual 
railway time-tables, being discursive and 
descriptive, and so far as relates to this city 
and territory, is singularly correct. 

— We can assure strangers and even old 
residents here, that they can obtain more 
information regarding this country from a 
perusal of this interesting book, than from 
any other similiar source. — Leader, Chey- 
enne. 

— The work is not only valuable to the 
tourist, but to those desiring to inform 
themselves in relation to matters connected 
with this great trans-continental thorough- 
fare.— Sentinel, Milwaukee. 

—It is the best and most condensed work 
of its magnitude ever published on the 
American continent, — Evening News, Gold 
Hill, Nevada. 

Colorado receives a due and just share of 
notice from its author. —Ghieftans, Pueblo, 
Col. 

— It will continue for years to be the 
standard work of the kind in this country. 
— Tribune, Denver, Col. 



— It is a credit to the author and the 
country across which the line passes. It 
is capitally written, of rare descriptive at- 
tractions and should be in the hands of 
everybody who travels. — Herald, Salt Lake 
City. 

— Every traveler across the continent 
should provide himself with a copy. — 
Omaha Herald. 

— It is just the thing to read as you ride 
along, to help you get acquainted with the 
country. — Statesman, Boise City. 

— It is a worthy herald of such an 
achievement as the Pacific Railroad. Be- 
side being a complete and authentic guide 
in the strict sense of the term, it possesses 
the charm of a book of travels. It de- 
scribes with sufficient minuteness each 
and every station on the Pacific Railroad, 
including also a description of prominent 
places in the Territories through which 
the railroad passes. The traveler, with 
the Tourist in his hand as a reference, 
knows exactly where he is, what places he 
passes, the mountains, rivers, and other 
matters which add to the value and inter- 
est of travel. — Golden Era, San Francisco. 

— It is replete with information of the 
greatest importance to the settler regard- 
ing the character of the soil, the people, 
wealth, prosperity, climate, agricultural 
and mineral resources of the country, so 
eagerly sought after by those seeking 
therein a home. In brief, it is a con- 
densed history of the great mineral and 
wealth-teeming country that has been 
bound closer to our own in an indissolu- 
ble bond of iron, which will prove of in- 
calculable benefit to both in the numerous 
avenues of trade, commerce and thought. 
We commend it with pleasure. — Art Jour- 
nal, Chicago. 

— Its value to the tourist or stay-at-home 
consists in its full description of the great 
Pacific Railroad.— Bulletin, Des Moines, 
Iowa. 

— It is to the traveler on the Pacific 
Road what the compass is to the mariner 
at sea.— Odd Fellows' Excursion Party. 

— The work is valuable for reference, as 
it contains descriptions of towns, lakes, 
mountains, springs, etc., on the line of the 
Pacific Railroad, and other information of 
great interest to the traveler. — Daily Bee, 
Sacramento. 



CHICAGO, ROCK ISLAND & PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

These Magnificent Dining anil Restaurant Cars 



RUN ON THE OVERLAND TRAINS OF THE ROCK ISLAND ROUTE 

Between Chicago and Omaha, furnishing All the 

Luxuries of the Season for 75 Cents per Meal. 



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Passengers will Bear in Mind 

that these are not the commonly called " Hotel Cars," used as kitchen, dining room 
and bed room, with all the attendant bad odors combined, and in which only a favored 
few are served. 

We recognize the fact, that the patrons of our line with small means, and those 
not occupying apartments in our Sleeping Cars, are entitled to an equal privilege of a 
good meal. 

A COMMODIOUS SMOKING ROOM 
is found in these Cars, in which the luxury of an Havana can be enjoyed. 



A. M. SMITH, 

Gen 1 ! Pass. Agent. 



A. KIMBALL, 

Gen 1 ! Supt. 




.S.tt^OSS.Wfr 



We were all little jokers once. 



UTAH S BEST CROP. 

Photographed from life, by Savage, Salt Lake City 



CROFUTT'S 

NEW OVERLAND 



TOURIST 

AND 

Pacific Coast Guide, 

CONTAINING A CONDENSED AND AUTHENTIC DESCRIPTION OF OVER 

One Thousand Two Hundred Cities, Towns, Villages, Stations, Government 

Fort and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Rivers, Sulphur, Soda 

and Hot Springs, Scenery, Watering Places, 

and Summer Resorts; where 

To look for and hunt the Buffalo, Antelope, Deer and other game; Trout Fishing ', etc., etc. 

In fact, to tell you -what is -worth seeing — where to see it — where to go — 

how to go — and whom to stop with zvhile passing over the 

UNION, CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROADS, 

Their Branches and Connections, by Rail, Water and Stage, 
FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET, AND PART THE WAY BACK; 

Through Nebraska, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, 
California and Arizona. 



BY GEO. A. CROFUTT, 

AUTHOR OF "GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE," AND " CROFUTT'S 

TRANS-CONTINENTAL TOURIST." 



VOL. 2—1879-80. k/.&XJL-Hf 



CHICAGO, ILLINOIS: 
THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING- COMPANY. 



Sold by News Agents on the Railroads, at News-Stands, and at the Book-Stores throughout the United States. 
Bakkalow Bbos., General News Agents, Union Pacific Railroad, Burlington & Missouri River R. R. in Neb., Missouri, Kansas & Texas ' 

R. R., Kansas Pacific Railway, and Colorado Central R. R. 
Eli S. Denison, General News Agent, Central and Southern Pacific Railroads, Gen'l Agt. for the Pacific Coast, Sacramento and San Francisco. 

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by The Overland Publishing Co., in the orBce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 







1879-80. 



With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible as a 
preface, the precedent for writing a preface is established ; and woe be to the Scribe who 
ignores precedent and custom — he could not live on this planet. 

At the present day the preface of a book is read by the public— if at all— in the 
light of an apology, wherein the author is expected to explain : first, why he did not do 
better; and, second, why he wrote at all. 

First— We have spared neither time, pains, nor money to make this a perfect 
book. Our statements are concise, plain, unadorned, and, we believe, truthful in every 
particular. Yet, we would shudder at the charge of being absolutely perfect. 

Second— We wrote this book for Money and Love. For money to help the poor. 
For love of the far western country — the land of the " Golden Fleece." For love of 
its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure air, healthful climate, magnificent 
scenery, unrivalled resources, and its unaffected, whole-souled people. 

We have taken the traveler with us— in a chatty way— on the longest trip ever at 
tempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and have recorded a telegram of 
the most important facts and items of information in a trip of 5,493 miles by rail, and 
792 miles by steamer, aggregating 6,285 miles, besides over 1,000 miles by stage coach. 
We have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, the 
loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the most barren des- 
erts ; we have climbed from sunrise to eternal snow, only to glide down into perpetual 
summer, and the orange groves and vineyards of the " Land of the Angels." 

We have crossed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most rugged 
mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in depth ; and through 
100 miles of snow-sheds and tunnels. Again, we have stood beneath a dome rising 
6.000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet in height, and 48 fett in diameter ; have 
strolled amid the redwoods, where they grow so thick that were they felled, the ground 
would be covered to a depth of sixty feet. We have passed through the celebrated 
Echo, Weber, Humboldt, and Solidad canyons; around "Cape Horn" and the 
" Dead Sea," down the Bitter and over the Green and Black waters, echoing near the 
" DeviVs Slide" and the great "Sink " of the Desert; descended into total darkness, with 
jets of boiling sulphur on either hand, and finally through the Devil's Gate, but 
landing safely at the Golden Gate. 

The scenery on this route has been the most varied ; we have been 9,339 feet above, 
and 266 feet below sea-level ; have taken our breakfast amid the eternal snow, and our 



supper in a land of perpetual summer, and have glided down from far above "timber 
line" into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day of the 
year. 

The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi country in 1860, as 
a " Pilgrim," and upon the completion of the Pacific railroad-line, wrote the first 
descriptive guide of the roads — from actual observation — the "Great Trans-Continental 
Railroad Guide" of 1869. Soon " Crofutt's Tourist" followed, the publication of 
which was continued thereafter. The popularity of these books was so great that the 
sale aggregated 344,000 copies. 

The present book describes more than three times the extent of country of any book 
heretofore published, and is profusely illustrated by nearly 100 beautiful engravings, 
most of which were photographed, designed, drawn, and engraved expressly for the 
author of this work. 

Annex— A department in the back part of this book, originated by the author, 
under which will be found a mass of condensed information, indirectly pertaining 
to the subject-matter of this work — and under which will be found full descriptions 
of all the large, double-page illustrations contained in this, our new book. 

From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numerous ; no less 
than twenty-five " Guide-books," Tourists' Hand-books," and "Books of Travels Across 
the Continent," etc., etc., have been issued, most of which were compiled in the East — 
without their compilers traveling over one foot of the route or at least not spending 
more than a few days on the road — while we have spent the best part of every year 
since 1860 acquiring the information, — every item of which we are prepared to verify. 

To newspaper correspondents across the continent, our books have proved an un- 
usual "God-send," enabling them to minutely describe the wonders of the trip passed 
in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, equally as well as though they 
were awake and in perpetual daylight. Now we do not mean to complain of these 
flighty journalists, as they are all "good fellows," but we do expect the courtesies 
usually extended by all honorable writers. 

GEO. A. CROFUTT. 

Chicago, III., April, 1879. 

GKEIsriEIE^.AJLj ZTCSTOZEIX: : 



LARGE VIEWS. 

No. 

American Progress 1 

Castellated Rocks at Green 

River 2 

Clear Creek Canyon 3 

Boulder Canyon 4 

Garden of the Gods 5 

Steamboat Rock, Echo .. 6 

Valley of the Yellowstone.. . 7 

Falls of the Yellowstone 8 

Falls of the Willamette 9 

Cape Horn, Columbia River. 10 

Wood Hauling in Nevada 11 

Mirror Lake, Yo-Semite 12 

Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite 13 

Summit Sierras 14 

Mt. Shasta, California 15 

State Capital of California ... 16 

The Geyser, California 17 

San Francisco and Surround- 
ings 18 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Page. 
Utah's Best Crop. . .Frontispiece 
Bird's Eye View of the Plains 13 

Hanging Rock, Am. Fork 15 

Sidney Dillon, of U. P. R. R. . 17 

Missouri River Bridge 22 

Union Depot Hotel 22 

Hanging Rock, Echo Canyon. 26 

High School, Omaha 29 

Devil's Slide, Weber Canyon. 33 
Crossing Sangre de Christo Mt 35 

Dale Creek Bridge 37 

Profile Map, U. P. R. R 41 

Finger Rock, Weber 43 

Monument Rock, Black Hills. 45 

Down the Weber River 47 

Wash-a-kie— " big chief " — . 49 

Burning Rock Cut 53 

Big Mule Team 28 

Mormon Temple 56 

DonnorLake Boating Party.. 58 



Page. 
Summit of the Mountains ... 60 
Forest View, Foot Hill Coun'y 62 

Yo-Semite Falls 64 

First Steam Train 70 

Devil's Gate, Weber Canyon. . 71 

Interior View Snow Shed 73 

Overland Pony Express 75 

Palisades of the Humboldt. . 79 
Crossing the ' -Range " on 

Snow Skates 81 

Seals and Sea Lions 87 

Snow Galleriers 89 

View of Salt Lake City 91 

Starvation Camp 93 

Crossing tbe Truckee River. . 95 

Mining Map of Utah 97 

James Bridger 99 

Pricky, the Horned Toad 103 

Pulpit Rock, Echo Canyon .... 105 

One Thousand Mile Tree 106 

Interior View Mormon Taber- 
nacle 107 



GHEI^IEIRlAJLi IIsTIDIEIXI-Continued. 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 

CONTINUED. PAGE. 

Brigham Young Ill 

Mormon "Holintss to the 

Lord 1 ' 113 

Walker House, Salt Lake.... 114 
Brigham Young's Residence. 119 

E^'gleGate 128 

Emering the Palisades 125 

Leland Stanford, of C. PR. R 130 
Profile Map of C. P. R. R. . . . 133 

The Last Spike 134 

Indians Watching the Pacific 

Railroad 143 

American River Canyon 147 

The Maiden's Grave 150 

Truckee River .153 

Snow Sheds 160 

Before the Railroad 163 

Eureka 167 

First Mountain Express 169 

Hydraulic Mining 175 

Rounding Cape Horn 176 

Looking up at Cape Horn 177 

Bloomer Cut 185 

Map of Routes in California. 1 

Livermore Pass Tunnel 196 

Palace Hotel 205 

Seal Rocks and Pacific Ocean 211 

Crossing the " Loop " 225 

Bird's Eye View of the "Loop" *31 

Yucca Palm 235 

San Pedro's Wife 23 

Orange Orchard and Palms ... 10 
Cattle Brands 263 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Routes East of Missouri River 

from 13 to 16 

Hints 14 

Sketch of Sidney Dillon 1 

Missouri River Bridge 21 

Snake River Pass „ . 6* 

Gray's Peak 63 

Middle Park, Col 63 

Narrow Gauge 65 

Giant's Cave 122 

Colorado 50 

White Pine 148 

American Desert 138 

Water Syphon 162 

Marysville Buttes 185 

TheVallejo Route 190 

Calaveras Big Trees 196 

Petrified Forest 214 

Yo-Semite Valley and Big 

Trees 

New Almaden Quick-Silver 

Mines 222 

Calilornia Windmills 194 

Tule Lands 188 

Up the Sacramento 187 

Down the Sacramento 189 

The Foot Hills 194 

First Gold Discovery 193 

Sutro Tunnel 165 

Tunnels and Snow Sheds 172 

Hydraulic Mining 175 

Ten Miles of Track in One 

Day 13 

Boise Country . . 138 

Pilot Peak 139 

Humboldt Well 141 

The Palisades 145 

The Maiden s Grave 149 

Gravelly Ford 149 



Page. 

Montana 129 

Yucca Palm 2:33 

The Sweetwater Country — 96 

EstesPark, Col 54 

One Thousand Mile Tree.... 106 

Devil's Slide 107 

Courthouse Rock 44 

Chimney Rock 44 

Pxairie Doge 44 

Fremont's Orchard 45 

Woman Jury 83 

Laramie Plains 51 

The Snowy Range . 84 

Utah 109 

The Last Spike 133 

Virginia Dale 80 



Col. Powell's Expedition.. 
Excursions No. 1. 



96 

20!) 
212 
214 
216 
219 



ANNEX INDEX. 

Commence page— 250 to 272 
No, 



1 American Progress... 250 

2 Passage Ticket Memo. 250 

3 Baggage Check " 250 

4 Rates of Fare 251 

5 Our Western Country 251 

5 TheFarWest 252 

5 All is Changed 252 

5 Condensed History... 252 
5 Organization of p. k. B. 253 

5 Land Grant 253 

5 Cost of Construction. . 254 
5 Importance of Road.. 254 
5 Facts in Brief 254 

5 Grumblers. . 255 

6 High School 255 

7 First Steam Train. . . . 255 

8 The Madrone Tree .... 255 

9 The Manzanita 255 

9 Books Worth Buying. 255 

10 JackSlade 256 

11 Boulder Canyon 256 

12 Hanging Rock, Cal . . . 256 

13 Snow Difficulties 256 

14 Garden of the Gods. . . 25' 

15 State Capital of Cal . . 257 

16 Castellated Rocks .... 25' 

17 Memories of Ft. Brid'r 25' 

18 Hanging Rock, Utah. 258 

19 Steamboat Bock 258 

20 Paddy Miles' Ride.. . 258 

21 Salt Lake 259 

22 " " 259 

23 Discovery of Califor'a 259 
23 Sierra Nevada Moun" 

23 The Coast Range 260 

23 The Rainy Season. . . . 260 

23 Statistical Items 260 

24 Hauling Ore in Hides. 260 

25 LifeofBrighamYoung 260 

26 National Park 261 

27 Ocean Steamships. ... 262 

28 Col. Hudnut's Survey. 262 

29 Western Stock Raising 263 

30 The Great Cave 264 

30 A Little History 264 

30 Indian Legend 264 

31 Nevada Falls 265 

32 Pioneer Mail.. 265 



Page. 
No. 34 Roll 'Em Through. . . 266 

35 Valley of the YellowB'e 267 

36 Falls » M 267 

37 " " Willi'ette 267 

38 Cape Horn 267 

39 Wood Hauling 267 

40 Mirror Lake 267 

41 Pony Express 267 

42 Sierra Nevada Moun's 268 

43 Mt. Shasta 268 

44 Woodward Gardens ... 268 

45 The Gevsers 268 

46 Bird's Eye View 269 

47 Schedule of Fare 269 

48 Viewing Progress — 269 

49 Palace Hotel 270 

50 Fares to Black Hills.. 270 

51 Books Worth Buying. 270 

52 " Prickey " 270 

53 Route to Yo Semite.... 270 

54 Our Artists 271 

55 The "Boss Cactus ''.. 271 

56 New Railroad 271 

57 Fire at Reno 271 

58 Sacramento Depot... 271 

59 Georgetown Stage 271 

60 Boston Smelter 271 

61 Canyon City Stages. . . 272 

63 Mammoth Snow Plow. 272 

64 Arizona 272 

Emigrant Sleeping Cars 272 



RAILROADS. 

American Fork 118 

Amadore Branch 194 

Bingham Canyon 115 

Bunington and Missouri 34 

Bay Coast 221 

Central Pacific 131 

Colorado Central 52 

California Pacific 190 

California Northern 184 

Denver & St. Joseph 34 

Denver & Rio Grande 67 

Denver Pacific 76 

Denver, South Park & Pacific 66 

Eureka & Palisade 146 

Fremont & Elkhorn 29 

Kansas Pacific 66 

Los Angeles & Independence 235 

Monterey & Selinus 224 

North Pacific Coast 216 

Northern 190 

Nevada County 178 

Omaha & Northwestern 24 

Omaha & Plattsmouth 24 

Prismoidal 215 

Republican Valley 27 

Sioux City & Pacific 27 

Santa Cruz 223 

San Pablo & Tulare 197 

San Francisco & North Pacific 214 

Summit County 105 

Sacramento Valley 192 

Southern Pacific 219 

Stockton & Visalia 196 

Stockton & Copperopolis — 196 

Union Pacific . 18 

Utah Central 110 

Utah Southern 114 

Utah Western 121 

Utah Northern 124 

Virginia & Truckee 161 



The Donnar Party 265[ Wasatch & Jordan Valley... 116 



O-ZEHSTIEIR^IEj UsTIDEXI-Continued. 



Page 
SPRINGS, 
Hot and Cold. 



Pages. 



..59, 70,111 
.122, 151,162 
.173,200,214 
.216,243, 199 
.124,154,213 



C. P, 



TIME TABHES. 

Eastern Division U. P. 19 

Mountain 

Laramie 

Western 

Salt Lake 

Humboldt 

Truckee 

Sacramento 

Western 

Visalia 

Tulare 

Los Angeles ' 

Yuma ' 



S. P 



131 
141 
155 
168 
192 
22(i 
226 
" 134 
242,245 



202, 



RIVERS 

Black's Fork 

Bear 


... 98 
... 126 


Colorado 

Cache-a-la-Poudra 

Carson 

Colorado 

Elkhorn 

Feather 

Green 

Gila 


... 102 
... 53 

... 158 

...247 
... 26 
... 188 

... 94 
. . 218 


Humboldt 

Ham's Fork 

Jordan 


142, 143 
... 98 
... 114 


King's 

Kern 


... 229 
... 231 


Laramie 

Logan 

Malad 

Medicine Bow 

North Platte 

Provo 


... 31 
... 127 
... 126 
... 86 
. 38, 39 
...120 
. . . 153 


Reese 

Ross Fork 

Snake 


... 152 

.. 128 
.. 128 


South Platte 


.. 42 


San Joaquin . ... 
The Platte 


.. 195 
.29,42 


Truckee 

Wood 


.. 167 
.. 34 




. . 105 


Walker 


.. 158 


U. S. FORTS 
CAMPS. 


AND 



Page. 

Ft. Yuma 246 

Ft. Fred Steele 

Ft. Bridger 99 

Ft. Halleck , 143 

Mare Island 192 

LAKES. 

Crystal 84 

Como 

Carson 158 

Donner 170 

Green 62 

Hot Spring 112 

Humboldt 157 

Honey 171 

Mud 155 

Owen's 230 



Pyramid 

Ruby 


.... 155 
... 140 


Salt Lase 

Tulare 

Tahoe 


. ..259 
.... 230 
.... 168 


Walker's 

Winnemucca 


.... 158 
.... 155 
162 


Utah 120 



Omaha Barracks 24 

Ft. Kearny.. 34 

Ft. McPherson 37 

Camp North Platte. . 39 

Camp at Sidney 42 

Camp Douglas 114 

Ft. Sedgwick 42 

Ft. Morgan 44 

D.A.Russell.... 47 

Laramie 47 

Fetterman 48 

Casper 48 

Reno 48 

Phil. Kearney.... 48 

C.F.Smith 48 



Ft. 
Ft. 
Ft. 
Ft. 
Ft. 
Ft, 
Ft. 



Ft. Saunders 82 



Cities, Towns, Vil- 
lages and Stations. 

Acampo 195 

Acton *34 

Adams 4o 

Adonde 76 

Alpha..... 147 

Alameda 200 

Alamosa 76 

Alila 230 

Alpine 234 

Agate 9a 

Alda 34 

Alpine 119 

Alta 116,174 

Alkali 40 

Altamont 

Alma ,... 102 

Alvin 27 

American Fork 118 

Ames 31 

Andrews 236 

Andersons 187 

Andersons 161 

Antelope, Neb 44 

Antelope, Cal 182 

Antioch 

A.ntioch Station 202 

Aneta... 187 

Anaheim 240 

Atkins 85 

Apishapa 74 

Applegate 180 

Archer 46 

Arcade 182 

Argenta 151 

Arvada 63 

Aspen 101 

Auburn 181 

Austin 152 

Baden 220 

Bantas 197 

Bakersfield 230 

Battle Creek 128 

Battle Mountain 152 

Batavia 191 

Barton 41 

Baxter 93 



Page. 

Bealville 232 

Belmont 220 

Bennett 44 

Beaver Brook 56 

Benton 88 

Benicia 188 

Bennington 127 

Bernal 220 

Berenda 228 

Be-o-wa-we 155 

Berthoud 156 

Bethany 202 

Barro 213 

Big Spring 40 

Big Hill 5 

Bingham 115 

Bitter Creek 92 

Bishops 142 

Black Buttes 

Black Hawk 57 

B'ackRock 122 

Blackfoot 128 

Bloomfield 180 

Blue Creek 132 

Blue Canyon 174 

Burs*, 

Bovine 139 

Box Springs 147 

Boise 138 

Bonneville 132 

Boca 167 

Boulder 54 

Borden 

Bozeman 129 

Brady Island 36 

Brainard 27 

Bristol 53 

Bronco 105 

Brigham 125,132 

Bridgeport 191 

Biggs 186 

Bryan 97 

Bridger.... 100 

Brighton 192 

Browns 157,162 

Brookvale 60 

Brounson 42 

Brule 40 

Buckeye 182 

Bullion 146 

Burns 45 

Buford 78 

Bushnell 44 

Burlinerame 

Buena Vista 179 

Cabazon 245 

Careon 164 

Carquinez 

Calistoga 213 

Call's Fork 125 

Caliente 232 

Cana 187 

Canyon City 72 

Cannons 191 

Cactus 246 

Castle 195 

Cass 77 

Cameron 233 

Cascade 173 

Castle Rock 68 

Castroville 224 

Carlin 145 

Carter 98 

Carbon 86 

Carbondale 195 

Carnadero 223 



Page. 

Camptonville. . . , 180 

Cedar 141 

Central City 58 

Centerville. ill 

Chappel 42 

Chicosa 74 

Church Buttes 98 

Churches . 55 

Cheyenne 46 

Chico 186 

Chualar .... 2<>4 

Chapman 32 

Cicero 194 

Chimney Gulch 56 

Clarkston 126 

Cisco 174 

Clarks, Neb 32 

Clarks. Nev 161 

Clear Creek 187 

Clear Creek 27 

Clipper Gap Ib0 

Clifton 126 

Cloverdale 216 

Coalville 105 

Cluro 149 

Collingsville 189 

Coal Creek •• 55 

C H.Mills 176 

Colfax 178 

Colorado Springs 69 

Colorado City.. 70 

Colorado Junction... 52 

Coin 154 

Coyote 36 

Como 86 

Colusa 188 

Columbus 31 

Colton, Neb 42 

Colton, Cal 244 

Cooper Lake 85 

Corinne 132 

Cornwall 203 

Cottonwood 57, 187 

Council Bluffs 16 

Cozad 36 

Creeton 90,191 

Curtis 190 

Cuchara 73 

Cucamonga 244 

Davisville... 190 

David City 27 

Davidson 55 

Dana 87 

Decota 199 

Deeth 142 

Deer Lodge 129 

Deer Creek .. 120 

Deep Wells .... 147 

Denver 63 

Desert 159 

Deweyville 126 

Devil's Gate 108 

Diamond 148 

Dixon 191 

Dexter 40 

Donahue 214 

DoAneyville 180 

Dutch Flat 174 

DosPalmos 246 

Downey 240 

Douglass 68 

Draper 117 

Duncan's Mills 218 

Dunham 186 

TCdgerton 69 

Echo 105 



O-IElsriEIR^ILj I35T3DBX:- Continued. 



Page 

Egbert 45 

El Casco 245 

Ellis 198 

Elko 142 

El Moro 

Elk Grove 194 

Elk Creek 5 

Elm Creek 35 

Elmira 191 

Elkhorn ..... 2G 

Emigrant Gap 174 

Empire, Nev ..... 164 

Empire, Col 61 

Essex 167 

Evanston 10a 

Evans, Nev 

Evans, Col 77 

Eureka 146 

Ewing 184 

Fairfield 191 

Pair Oaks 221 

Farmington 110 

Filmore 90 

Flowing Wells .. ..246 

Florin 194 

Floyd Hill 59 

Fink's Springs 246 

Folsom 193 

Ft. Collins 54 

Ft. Fred Steele .... 88 

Ft. Sanders 8i 

Fowler 229 

Forest City 180 

Fountain 71 

Franktown 16'^ 

Franklin 127 

Fremont, Neb stf 

Fremont, Cal 191 

Freeport 189 

Fresno 229 

Fulton 214 

Gait 194 

Gannett 

Garland 76 

Gardner Pass 148 

Georgetown 61 

Geyserville 216 

Glade 68 

Gerard 233 

Gibbon 84 

Gila City 248 

Gila Bend 249 

Gilmore 25 

Gilroy 223 

Golconda 154 

Gold Hill 165 

Golden 55 

Gold Run 175 

Gospel Swamp 241 

Goshen 229 

Granite Pt 157 

Graneros 73 

Grangers 98 

Greeley — 77 

Greenland 69 

Greenhorn 73 

Green River 94 

Grass Valley 179 

Green Valley 214 

Gridley 186 

lireenville 89 

Granite Canyon 78 

Grand Island 32 

Guy Gulch 56 

Gurneyville 216 



Page. 

Hallville 94 

Half-way House 123 

Hallack 143 

Hanging Rock 104 

Hamelton 143 

Hampton 98 

Hamlet 218 

Harney 80 

Harrisville 224 

Hay ward's 199 

Hay Ranch 146 

Hazard 52,72 

Healdsburg 216 

Helena 129 

Herfano 73 

Hillsdale 45 

Hilliard 101 

Hollester 223 

Honey ville 125 

Hooker 187 

Hot Springs 159 

Howard 218 

Howells 85 

Buffakers 161 

Humboldt 156 

Huntsville 68 

Huron.. 229 

Hughes 77 

Husteds 69 

Hyde Park 127 

Hyrum 126 

Idahoe, Col 59 

Idaho, Idaho 138 

Independence 140 

Indio 245 

Iron Point 154 

lone 194 

Illinoistown 178 

Iowa Hill 178 

Jackson 32 

Jossleyn 36 

Jordan ... 115 

Johnson 77 

Julesburg 41 

Junction, Roseviile.. 181 

Junction, Col 57, 59 

Junction, Cal 217 

Junction, Utah 115 

Kaysville 110 

Keen 232 

Kearny Junction 34 

Ketchum 31 

Kelton 132 

Kingsbury 229 

Knights Landing 188 

Korbels 214 

Kress Summit 179 

Larkspur — 68 

Lake 138 

Latham 92 

Laramie 84 

La Veta 74 

Lake View 164 

Lawsons 61 

Lawrence 93 

Lake Point 122 

Lang 235 

Lathrop 197 

Leadville 67 

Lehi 118 

Lewistown 127 

Leroy 100 

Lerdo 230 

Livermore 198 

Little York 175 



Pag 

Lincoln 183 

Little Buttes 71 

Little Cottonwood.. . 115 

Live Oak 186 

Littleton 68 

Lockwood 32 

Lodge Pole 42 

Lodi 195 

Longmont 54 

Longs Peak 54 

Lone Tree 52 

Logan 126 

Lomo 186 

Lookout, Neb 85 

Lookout, Nev 164 

Loray 140 

Lorenzo ; 

Los Angeles 236 

Lovelocks 157 

Loveland 54 

Lucin . . 137 

Maracopa Wells 249 

Madera 228 

Madrone 222 

Malad 127 

Mammoth Tank 246 

Manitou .. 70 

Martinez 190 

Mariposa 227 

Marston 98 

Marysville 184 

Matlin 139 

Mercede 227 

Medicine Bow 86 

MenloPark 221 

Mendon 126 

Melrose 200 

Milbra 220 

Millard 26 

McCoLnells 194 

McPherson 37 

Mayfield 221 

Midway 198 

Michigan Bar 194 

Miilis 102 

Millon 195 

Miser 85 

Mississippi Bend 189 

Mill City, Col 61 

Mill City, Nev 156 

Millstone 122 

Mill Station 162 

Mineral 147 

Mirage 159 

Modesto 227 

Montello 139 

Monterey 224 

Mojava 233 

Monument 69 

Monument 1?8 

Montpelier 127 

Moore's 141 

Monte 243 

Moleen 145 

Morano 227 

Mokelumne 195 

Mountain House 165 

Mountain View 221 

Murphys 195 

Mule Shoe 76 

Mystic 167 

Natividad 224 

Nevada, Cal 18" 

Nadeau 233 

Napa 212 





Page. 


Napa Junction.. 
N. E. Mills 


... 191 


... 180 


Newton 


... 126 


Newhall 


... 235 


Newport 


... 240 


New Castle 


... 181 


Nelson 


.... 186 




.. 39 


Ni Wot 


... 54 


Niles 


... 199 


North Platte 


... 38 


North Bend 


... 31 


Nord 


... 187 


Norwalk 


... 240 


Oakland, East... 


... 200 


Oakland, Wharf.. 


... 205 


Oakland 


... 201 


Oak Knoll 


... 213 


Oakville 


... 213 


O'Fallons 


... 39 


Ojo 


... 74 


Ogalalla 


.. 40 


Ogden 


... 109 


Olema 


... 218 




. . . . 23 


Ombey 


. . 138 


Oneida 


... 128 




... 144 




... 157 


Oroville 


... 184 


Otto 


... 77 




... 140 


Overton 


... 35 


Oxford 


... 126 


Palisade 


... 146 


Paradise 


... 126 


Paris 


... 1?7 


Pajaro 


... 223 


Payson 


... 225 


Plum 


... 68 


Papillion 


.. 25 


Petaluma 


... 214 


Petersburg 


... 68 


Petersons 


... 114 


Peters 


... 195 




... 86 




... 140 


Peko 


... 143 


Pinole 


... 204 


Port Neuf 


... 123 




... 120 


Providence 


... 126 


Pasadena 


... 241 


Piedmont 


... 101 


Pierce 


.. . 77 


Pine Station 


... 147 


Pino 


... 181 




... 72 


Pine Bluffs 


... 44 


Puente 


.. 243 


Piute 


.. 154 


Plainsburg 


.... 227 


Placerville 


... 193 


Pleasanton 


... 198 


Pleasant Grove... 


. .. 120 


Plum Creek 


... 34 


Pomona 


... 243 




... 92 


Proctors 


... 167 


Prosser Creek 


... 167 


Prairie Dog 


... 44 


Potter 


... 43 


Pueblo 


... 72 


Promontory 


... 133 


Quarry 


... 132 



a 


rB] 

Page. 


KTEBAL I3^TDEX- 


-Coot 


'INUED. 


9 

Page. 




1 


Page. 




Page. 


Ralston 


.. 55 


San Mateo 


.. 220 


Summit, U. P 


. 90 


Valley 


... 27 


Raspberry 


.. 156 


San Diego 


. . 240 


Summit, C. P 


.. 172 


Vallejo 


... 191 


Ravena.... 


.. 235 


San Juan Capistrau 


o. 241 


Summit, Veta Pass 


.. 76 


Vetdi 


... 167 


Rawling 


.. 89 


San Bernardino — 


. . 244 


Summit, U. N.... 


.. 126 


Vina 


... 187 


Reeds 


.. 184 


San Gorgonio 


.. 245 


Sumner 


.. 230 


Virginia Dale 


... 80 


Red Buttes 


.. 81 


Salida 


.. 227 


Summit, E. & P... 


.. 148 


Visalia 


... 229 


Redwood City — 
Redding 


.. 220 


Salt Wells 


.. 93 


Summit Siding 

Summit, Col 


.. 25 


Vista 


.. 161 


.. 187 


Salinas 


.. 221 


. 63 


Virginia City, M.. 


... 129 


Red Bluffs 


.. 187 


Sandy 


.. 116 


Sunol 


.. 199 


Virginia City, N.. 


... 165 


Red Desert 


.. 92 


Salvia 


.. 161 


Swan Lake 


.. 128 


Washatoya 


... 74 


Red Dog 


. 175 


Sargents 


.. 223 


Swingle 


.. 190 


Wads worth 


... 155 


Reno 


.. 161 


Santaquin 


. . 121 


Table Rock 


.. 92 


Walnut Grove 


... 213 


Rio Vi-ta 


.. 189 


Saud Creek 


.. 234 


Tamarack 


.. 174 


Walsens 


... .74 


Riverside r 


... 27 


Seco... 


. . 138 


Tamalpais 


.. 217 


Wasatch, U. P... 


... 103 


Richmond 


.. 147 


Sesma 


.. 187 


Taylorsville 


.. 218 


Wasatch, A. F 


... 116 




.. 31 




. . 90 


Taylors 

Tecoma 


... 52 




92 


Richland, Cal 


.. 189 


Sepulveda 


. 236 


.. 139 


Washoe 


... 162 


Ripon 


.. 227 


Seven Palms 


.. 245 


Tehama 


.. 187 


Wahoo 


... 27 




.. 156 
.. 85 


Schuyler 

Sheridan .... 


. . 31 
.. 184 
. . 6^ 


Tennants 

Terrace 

Tehachapi 

Texas Hill 


.. 222 
.. 189 

.. 233 


Waterloo 


... 27 




Watsonville 


... 223 
36 


Rock Springs 

Rocklin 


. . 93 


.. 181 


Shoshone 


.. 151 


.. 249 


Washington 


... 190 


Ross Pork 


.. 128 


Shady Rud 


.. 174 


Thompson 


. 212 


Weber Quarry 


... 107 


Roscoe 


.. 40 


Shelby 


.. 34 


Thayer 


.. 93 


Weber 


... 108 


Rozel 


.. 139 


Shelton 


.. 34 


Tie Siding . 


.. 80 


Webster 


... 66 


Rye Patch 


.. 156 


Silver Creek 


.. 32 


Tipton, U. P 


.. 92 


Walters 


... 245 


Rutherford 


.. 213 
.. 243 


Silver City, Nev... 
Silver City, Idaho. 


. . 165 

.. 138 


Tipton, C. P 

Tooele City 

Tomales 


.. 23C 
.. 123 


Walcot's 


... 88 


Savanna 


Wells 


... 141 


Salt Lake 


.. 112 


Silver Station... . 


.. 165 


. . 114 


Wellsville 


... 126 


Sacramento 


.. 182 
. . 204 

.. 74 


Sidney 


.. 42 
.. 57 
.. 126 


Toano 

Tocoluma 

Truckee 


.. 140 
.. 216 
.. 167 


Weissport 

Weston 


... 69 
. . . 126 


San Pablo 


Smith Hill 


Santa Clara, Col... 


Smithville 


Weston 


. 27 


Santa Monica 


.. 237 


Simpson 


.. 86 


Tracy, U. P 


. 45 


West Jordan 


... 115 


Santa Ana 


.. 240 


Sodaville 


.. 224 


Tracy, C. P 


.. 2l»2 


White Plains.... 


... 159 


San Leandro 


.. 199 


Solidad 


.. 225 


Transfer Grounds. 


. 19 


Wheatland 


... 184 


San Carlos 


.. 73 


Soto 


. . 187 


Trf spinos 


.. 223 


vV'hitney 


... 183 


Santa Clara, Cal... 


.. 221 


Sonoma 


. . 214 


Trinidad 


74 


Widefield 


... 71 


Santa Cruz 


.. 221 


Springville 


.. 121 


Tryon Mills 


.. 218 


Winnemucca.... 


... 154 


Santa Rosa 


.. 214 


Spanish Fork 


.. 221 


Tulasco 


.. 142 


Wilmington 


... 239 


San Joaquin 


.. 227 
.. 220 
.. 220 


St. Marv's 


.. 87 


Tulare 

Tule 


.. 230 
.. 137 


' indsor 

Winship 

Willard 

Willards 


... 214 
... 105 
... 124 
... 146 


San Miguel 


St. Helena 

Stevenson 

Steamboat Springs 


.. 213 
.. . 35 
.. 162 




Uintah 

Yuma.City 

Yuba Station 


.. 108 
.. 246 


San Francisco 


.. 202 


San Fernando.... 


.. 236 


Storms 


.. 179 


.. 184 


Wilcox 


... 86 


San Gabriel 


.. 242 


Stockton, Cal 


.. 19:i 


Yuba City 


.. 185 


Williams 


... 190 


San Juan, N 


.. 180 


Stockton, Utah.... 


.. 127 


You Bet 1 


75, 179 


W r illow Island... 


... 36 


San Juan, S 


. 223 


Stone House 


.. 154 


Youtsville 


.. 213 


W'ood's Crossing 


... Ill 


San Quintin! 


.. 217 


Strong's Canyon.. 


.. 172 


York 


.. 121 


woodland 


.. 190 


San Rafael 


.. 217 


Spadra 


. 243 


Valaparaso 


27 


Wood River 


... 34 


San Jose 


.. 222 


Stanwix 


.. 249 

u 


Valley Ford 


.. 114 


Wyoming 


... 58 



OCEAN TO OCEAN, 
OVERLAND. 



FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET AND PART THE WAY BACK. 



Sunrise — As the city of Halifax, in the 
Province of Nova Scotia and Dominion 
of Canada, is the extreme Eastern termi- 
nus of the grand system of North Ameri- 
can railways, which extend from its At- 
lantic portal across the continent 3,646 miles 
to San Francisco, its Pacific brother, it 
would seem to be the most proper point in 
the East from which we should first start 
on our journey with the tourist or emi- 
grant for the same destination. 

At Halifax, the morning sun, as it rises 
from its apparent coldwater bath in the 
broad ocean on the east, casts its golden 
rays down upon the first rail-track that 
spans a continent, and from the moment the 
light strikes these iron bands of civilization 
and progress, it seems to follow them up, 
step by step, through populous cities, over 
mighty rivers, across broad, treeless plains, 
and towering snow-capped mountains, on, 
on ! towards the tropical regions of the 
Orient. Every foot of the route, every ob- 
ject of interest or being, is minutely in- 
spected, while rolling over to its daily bath, 
in the mighty Pacific Ocean of the West. 
Our course is in the same general direction, 
but our time will be slower ; as we shall 
linger by the way, and shall, after noting 
the principal routes east of the Missouri 
River, take the traveler with us over the 
Union and Central Pacific railroads ; thence 



over the Southern Pacific to Stanwix, Ari- 
zona, 2,719 miles. 

We shall also take a run over the 
"Republican Valley" branch of the 
U. P. in Nebraska, glance at the Black 
Hills, spin all over Colorado via the 
Denver Pacific, the Colorado Central, the 
Denver & Rio Grande; dive into the 
mines, sip the waters of the famous Mani- 
tou springs, and bathe in those of the cele- 
brated Idaho ; snatch a rose from the "Gar- 
den of the Gods," gaze up at the towering 
Long's, Pike's, Veta and the Span- 
ish peaks, thunder through the mighty 
canons of Clear Creek, and over the great 
Sangre de Christo mountains, at an eleva- 
tion of 9,339 feet, the second highest rail- 
road point in the world. 

We will rattle through "Echo Canyon" 
and the "Devil's Gate" to the land of 
Zion, and over the Utah Central, South- 
ern, American Fork, Bingham Canyon, 
Wasatch & Jordan Valley, and the Western 
railroads. 

We will glance at Utah Territory, 
Salt Lake, the mines, the magnificent 
scenery of the American Fork, then bound 
away to the northward, over the Utah 
Northern, and take a peep at the Great 
Yellowstone National Park, the "Geysers," 
waterfalls, etc. 

We will stand on the spot where the "last 



12 



CROFXJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



spike" was driven, which united the East 
and the West by iron bands, and over 
where the "ten miles of track was laid 
in one day ;" we shall run along beside 
Salt Lake, — the great dead sea, — down 
the Humboldt, and over the Eureka 
& Palisade railroad to the Eureka and 
White Pine country. 

The "Palisades of the Humboldt," as well 
as the Lake and the great "sink" of the 
Humboldt, will be visited, as also the great 
Nevada Desert, and the hot, spurting sul- 
phur springs of Nevada. We shall visit the 
greatest silver mining country in the 
world, Virginia City. Gold Hill and Car- 
son, via the Virginia & Truckee rail- 
road ; will take a trip over Lake Tahoe, 
and fish in Donner; ascend the Sierras, 
and roll through more than fifty miles of 
snow sheds and tunnels, one continuing 
for 28 miles. Then around "Cape Horn," 
and to the old mining towns of Grass Val- 
ley and Nevada, over the Nevada County 
Narrow Gauge railroad, one of the finest 
in the world. We will take a run all over 
California, visit the "Big Trees," Yo-Se- 
mite Valley the "Geysers," "Redwood 
Forests," "Seal Rocks," "Quicksilver 
Mines," "Alabaster Cave," Calestoga, and 
the grape vineyards and wine cellers of So- 
noma and Napa counties. We will visit 
Mount Shasta and the Upper Sacramento 
Valley ; Coloma, where gold was first dis- 
covered ; Mt. Diablo, the lofty peak of the 
Contra-Costa Mountains; and Mt. Tamal- 
pais, the huge sentinel of the Coast Range, 
where we are at Sunset, at the Golden 
Gate. After taking a hasty glance of Ore. 
gon and the Columbia River, we shall direct 
our course south and eastward, towards 
Sunrise, up the great San Joaquin Val- 
ley, over the "Loop" of the " Tehachapie 
Pass," and out on to the great " Mojave 
Desert," rolling down the infamous So- 
ledad Canyon,— the "Robber's Roost,"— 
and through the San Fernando Mountains, 
out into the valley, and to the " city of the 
angels," Los Angeles,with its tropical fruits, 
orange orchards, and eternal summer. 



From Los Angeles, our route is to 
Santa Monica, the Long Branch of the 
Pacific, thence around to Wilmington 
Harbor, on a visit to San Pedro's wife, 
the "Woman of the Period." We will also 
take a look at Santa Ana, Anahime, San 
Gabriel, where the oldest Mission building 
in the State is in ruins ; where orange trees 
are over one hundred years old and loaded 
down with the golden fruit. We will have a 
run through the great vineyards and fruit 
orchards of this tropical region, inspect the 
Mammoth cactus pads and the huge palm 
trees. From this point, "Progress" turns 
more to the Eastward. We will follow its 
track and pass over the San Barnerdino 
mountains, and descend into the "Great 
Colorado Desert," rolling down, down, to 
the sea level, where one would suppose 
''Progress" would naturally stop, unless she 
had a boat or a diving suit ; but no, our train 
starts again downward; ye Gods! down, 
down we go, under the sea level two hundred 
and sixty-six feet, where sulphur springs, 
mud, geysers, salt, and many other kinds 
of springs — both hot and cold — are very 
numerous, forcibly reminding one of the 
''infernal regions;" but, as our modem 
teachers have done away with that old 
"bugaboo," we suppose they would not 
hesitate to visit with us this remarkable 
and very interesting region, and also go 
with us to Yuma, up the Gila to terminus 
Southern Pacific, in Arizona. 

Let us see, we are living in a fast age ; 
the sun makes very good time, but "Old 
Sol" is aged, has run in the same old 
groove for too many years to retain much 
of the spirit of Progress. It is within 
the memory of many, how Morse, with 
his lightning, beat the old luminary, and 
we are now "talking all around him." 
Steam on the rail is next in speed ; "one 
mile a minute" is not uncommon. The 
trip from New York city to San Francisco, 
a distance of 3,296 miles, was commenced 
June 1st, 1877, by Jarretttfc Palmer, on a 
special train, and the run made in 83 hours, 
53 minutes, and 45 seconds, an average of 








AMERICAN PROGRESS. (See Annex No. i.) 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



13 




BIRDS EYE VIEW OF THE PLAINS, FROM LOUP FORK RIVER 



39 miles an hour including stops. Sol 
must look sharp, or steam will also beat him 
in the race. 

West to the Missouri RiveTi — We 
shall not attempt a minute description 
of the various railroad and steamboat 
routes, east of the Missouri River. Each 
possesses its own peculiar attractions, a few 
of which will be briefly noted hereafter. 

Passengers from the Eastern Atlantic 
sea-board, contemplating a trip to the Pa- 
cific coast, or the trans-Missouri country 
bordering the great Pacific railroad, can 
have their choice of five through "Trunk 
Lines," four American and one Canadian, 
which find their way by different routes, to 
a connection with the Union Pacific rail- 
road, on the east bank of the Missouri 



River, midway between Council Bluffs 
and Omaha. 

These five lines are the New York Cen- 
tral and Hudson River railroad, the 
Erie railway line, the Pennsylvania 
Central, the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, 
and the Grand Trunk, of Canada. 

The railroad connections by these lines 
are almost innumerable, extending to al- 
most every city, town, and village in 
nearly every State and Territory in the 
United States and Dominion of Canada ; 
the regular through trains of either line 
make close and sure connections with the 
Pacific road, while the fares are the same. 
Sleeping cars are run on all through trains 
— most luxuriant palaces. The charges 
are extra, or about $3 per day — 24 hours. 



14 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Only first-class passengers can procure 
berths in the sleeping cars. 

HINTS BEFORE WE START. 

1. Provide yourself with Crofutt's New 
Overland Tourist, and then be particular 
to .choose such routes as will enable you 
to visit the cities, towns, and objects of 
interest that you desire to see, without an- 
noyance or needless expense. 

2. Greenbacks are good everywhere, so 
there is no longer any necessity of chang- 
ing them for gold. 

3. Never purchase your tickets from a 
stranger in the street, but over the counter 
of some responsible company. When 
purchasing tickets, look well to the date, 
and notice that each ticket is stamped at 
the time you receive it. Then make a 
memorandum on the blank in the Annex 
No. 2, of your Guide Book, of the name of 
the road issuing the ticket, destination of 
ticket, form, number of ticket, consecutive 
number, class and date. In case you lose 
your ticket, make known the fact at once 
at the office of the company, showing the 
memorandum as above described, and steps 
can be taken immediately to recover the 
ticket, if lost or stolen, or to prevent its be- 
ing used by any one else. By attention to 
such slight and apparently unimportant 
matters as these, travelers may recover 
their loss and save themselves much in- 
convenience. 

4. Before starting out, provide yourself 
with at least one-third more money than 
your most liberal estimate would seem to 
require, and do not lend to strangers or be 
induced to play at their games, if you do, 
you will surely be robbed. 

5 . Endeavor to be at the depot at least 
fifteen minutes before the train leaves, 
thereby avoiding a crowd and securing a 
good seat. 

6. You will need to show your ticket to 
the baggage-man when you ask him to 
check your baggage; then see that it is 
properly checked, and make a memoran- 
dum of the number of the check in the 
blank of the Annex No. 3 ; this done, you 
will need to give it no further attention un- 
til you get to the place to which it is 
checked. 

7. Persons who accompany the con- 
ductor through the cars, calling for bag- 
gage to be delivered at the hotels or other 
places, are generally reliable, but the pas- 
senger, if in doubt, should inquire of the 
conductor, and then be careful to compare 



the number of the ticket received from the 
agent in exchange for your check, to be 
sure that they are the same. 

8. Do not grumble at everything and 
everybody or seek to attract attention ; re- 
member only boors and uneducated peo- 
ple are intrusive and boisterous. 

9. Remember this: "Please" and 
"Thanks" are towers of strength. Do not 
let the servants excel you in patience and 
politeness. All railroad employes are in- 
structed to be gentlemanly and obliging at 
all times. 

10. And finally — Do not judge of the 
people you meet by their clothes, or think 
you are going west to find fools ; as a mil- 
lionaire may be in greasy buckskin, a col- 
lege graduate in rf.gs, and a genius with 
little of either, while in the breast of each 
beats an honest heart. 

o 

For Rates of Fare, see Annex No. 4. 
o 

Route 1. — From Halifax take the 
Inter-Colonial and Grand Trunk railways, 
through the Province of New Bruns- 
wick via Quebec, Montreal, Victoria 
Bridge, along the shore of the St. Law- 
rence River, Thousand Islands, and La 
Chine Rapids, Toronto, Hamilton, Niagara 
and Detroit, where connections are made 
with routes 2 and 3. Another route is by 
Maine Central via Portland, and then the 
Grand Trunk, or, via Boston and the 
Central Vermont and the Grand Trunk. 

From Boston there are quite a num- 
ber of lines. One, as above described, is 
through Vermont and Canada ; another is 
by the Boston & Albany railroad to Al- 
bany, where connections are made with 
route 2 ; another is the new "Hoosac Tun- 
nel" route, through the mountain and tun- 
nel of that name, — 25,081 feet in length, 
double track ; cost $16, 000,000— cut through 
a mountain which rises 1,900 feet above the 
track. This route is a very desirable one, 
passes through the entire length of the 
State of Massachusetts, and connects with 
route 2, at Troy, New York. Another 
line is via Springfield, or Shore Line, to 
New York city; or, you can take part 
"rail" and the steamships on Long Island 
Sound, of which there are three first-class 
lines, comprising some of the finest boats 
in the world. 

From New York city, passengers who 
desire to visit Niagara— whose thundering 
cataracts, in volume of waters, far surpass I 
all other waterfalls in the known world — I 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



15 




HANGING ROCS, AMERICAN FORK 

See Annex No. 18. 

may also view the great Suspension Bridge 
over Niagara River, which, undoubtedly, is 
one of the finest structures of its kind in 
this country. They can have choice of two 
trunk lines. 

Route 2.— The New York Central & 
Hudson River line, passes up the glorious 
old Hudson, the magnificent river upon the 
bosom of which Fulton launched his "ex- 
periment," the first steamboat ever con- 
structed. This road is built almost on the 
river brink, upon the eastern bank, which 



slopes back in irregu- 
lar terraces, presenting 
from the car window 
one of the finest, if not 
the finest, panoramic 
view in the world. 
On the right are many 
small cities, towns and 
villages, with groves, 
parks, gardens, orch- 
ards, and alternate rich 
fields, with here and 
there, peeping out from 
beneath the trees, the 
magnificent country 
villa of the nabob, 
the substantial resi- 
dence ot the wealthy 
merchant, or the neat 
and tasteful cottage of 
the well-to-do farmer. 
Then come the " Pali- 
sades of the Hudson," 
and then again a rep- 
etition of the beauties 
above described, while 
to the west of our train 
rolls the river, with 
numberless steamboats 
tugs, barges, small 
boats, and sailing ves- 
sels of all kinds and 
classes, while beyond, 
on the west bank, is 
spread out a succession 
of scenery not much 
unlike that seen on 
the eastern side. This 
line passes through 
Central New York, the 
"Garden Spot of the 
State," via Albany, — 
the Capital of the 
State, — Troy, Utica, 
Rochester, to Suspen- 
sion Bridge, Niagara, 
and Buffalo. 
The direct western connections of this 
route are at Suspension Bridge, with the 
Great Western and Michigan Central 
and at Buffalo with the Canada Southern 
and the Lake Shore & Michigan South- 
ern, via Dunkirk and Cleveland. 

Route 3. — The Erie railway line trav- 
erses the southern portion of the State of 
New York, via Binghampton, Corning, 
and Buffalo. The track of the Erie is 
the broad gauge ; the cars are very wide 
and commodious. This route affords the 



R.R., UTAH. 



16 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVEELAND TOUEIST 



traveler a view, while crossing and re- 
crossing the Delaware, of scenery and en- 
gineering skill, at once grand, majestic, 
and wonderful. The direct western con- 
nection of the Erie is the Lake Shore 
& Michigan Southern, at Dunkirk and 
Buffalo; and the Canada Southern, at 
Buffalo— with the Great Western and 
Michigan Central, at Suspension Bridge ; 
and the Atlantic & Great Western, at 
Corry, Penn. 

Route 4.— The Pennsylvania Central 
line receives passengers in New York 
and Philadelphia, and conveys them the 
entire length of the State of Pennsylvania, 
via Harrisburg— the capital of the State, 
—to Pittsburgh, the most extensive iron 
manufacturing citvin the UnitedStates. The 
landscape on this line, and especially while 
passing along the Susquehanna River, and 
the charming "Blue Juniatta," and over the 
Alleghanies, presents scenery most grand ; 
while the fearful chasms and wonderful 
engineering skill displayed at the "Great 
Horse-shoe Bend," and at other points, are 
second only to that displayed at "Cape 
Horn" on the Sierra Nevada mountains. 
At Pittsburgh, the Central connects with 
the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago, 
— one of the best roads in this country — 
and also with lines, via Columbus and In- 
dianapolis, and St. Louis, or Cincinnati, 
Indianapolis and St. Louis 



ern was the first road built to the Missouri 
River, where the first train arrived January 
17th, 1867. A sleeping and magnificent 
hotel car accompanies each through pas- 
senger train, and meals are served, la 
carte, and are very excellent. The route 
is via Clinton and Cedar Rapids. The 
Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific route is 
via Rock Island, Davenport and Des 
Moines. This line is also fitted up in 
the best manner, with sleeping and din- 
ing cars; and, last, but by no means 
least, is the Burlington Route, by the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, and the 
Burlington & Missouri, via Galesburg, 
and Burlington. Here too will be found 
sleeping and dining cars. 

We have enumerated above, the principal 
lines centering at the Transfer Grounds. 
All trains from the' East and South stop 
a few moments at Council Bluffs before 
proceeding to the Transfer Grounds, two 
miles further west. Let us take a look at 
Council Bluffs— This city is in the 
western portion of the State of Iowa, about 
three miles from the Missouri River, at the 
foot of the bluffs. It is the county seat of 
Pottawattomie county, and contains a pop- 
ulation of about 14,000. It is four miles 
distant from Omaha, Nebraska, with which 
city it is connected by steam and horse 
railroads. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, 
held council with the Indians here in 1804, 



r° UT ?,?- _Is via H ie cities of Philadel- and named it Council Bluffs. It is one of 



phia and Baltimore, by the Baltimore & 
Ohio. By this line, passengers are afforded 
an opportunity of visiting the capitol at 
Washington, and thence, via Harper's 
Ferry, "over the mountains" to Wheeling. 
It is said by some travelers that the 
scenery by this line is unsurpassed by any 
on the continent. The western connec- 
tions are at Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. 
Louis. 

From Cincinnati passengers can have 
choice of several first-class competing 
lines, via either Chicago or St. Louis, or 
via the Burlington route— direct, via Bur- 
lington, Iowa, where connection is made 
with the Burlington & Missouri, for Coun- 
cil Bluffs. 

From St. Louis passengers can take 
either the North Missouri, or the Mis- 
souri Pacific, via Kansas City, and the 
Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs, 
via St. Joseph, Mo., or the St. Louis & 
Northern, and arrive at Council Bluffs. 

From Chicago there are three first 
class roads. The Chicago & Northwest- 



the oldest towns in Western Iowa. As early 
as 1846, it was known as a Mormon settle- 
ment, by the name of Kanesville, which it 
retained until 1853, when the legislature 
granted a charter designating the place as 
the City of Council Bluffs. 

The surrounding country is rich in the 
chief wealth of the nation — agriculture. 

Council Bluffs includes within her cor- 
porate limits 24 square miles. The buildings 
are good ; the town presents a neat, tasty, 
and, withal, a lively appearance; street-cars 
traverse the principal streets; churches 
and schools are numerous. The State In- 
stitute for the Deaf and Dumb is located 
near the city, to the southeast. The Ogden, 
is the principal hotel, and the Daily Non- 
pareil, and the Daily Globe, are the prin- 
cipal newspapers. 

By a decision of the United States Su- 
preme Court, the eastern bank of the Mis- 
souri River is the terminus of the Union 
Pacific railroad. The terminus is now 
known as the Transfer Grounds. 




CASTELLATED ROCK 



S fiREEN RIVER, WYOMING. (See Anno: No. ifi.) 



AND PACIFIC COAST GTJIDE. 



17 




SIDNEY DILLON. 



Among the men of progress in America 
there will he found no name more dis- 
tinctly representative or more thoroughly 
in unison with the spirit of the age, than 
that of Mr. Sidney Dillon, President of 
the Union Pacific railroad. Born in North- 
ampton, Montgomery county, New York, 
on the 7th of May, 1812, at which place 
his father was a well-to-do farmer, he 
came of sterling stock — his grandfather 
having heen a Revolutionary soldier. 

From early childhood his life has been 
an active one, given almost wholly to the 
advancement of the internal improvements 
of his country. When a mere lad, he com- 
menced his railroad life as an errand boy, 
on the Mohawk & Hudson railroad — 
the first railroad built in his native 
State — running from Albany to Schenec- 
tady. ( See Annex No. 7. ) He next 
entered the service of the Rensselaer 
& Saratoga — then we hear of him as over- 
seer of a contract on the Boston & Provi- 
dence, and several other roads. In 1838, he 
took his first contract, and completed it with 
profit in 1840, from which time his con- 
tracts have been very numerous. Among 
2 



these was "Clay Hill," two miles from 
West Troy, on the Troy & Schenectady 
railroad. Mr. Dillon next built twenty- 
six miles of the Hartford & Springfield, 
six miles of the Cheshier, and ten miles on 
the Vermont & Massachusetts. Besides 
the above, he has been engaged in the con- 
struction of the Rutland & Burlington; 
Central, of New Jersey; the Morris 
canal ; the Boston & New York Central ; 
the Philadelphia & Erie; the Erie & 
Cleveland; the Morris & Essex; the 
Boston, Hartford & Erie; the Iowa; the 
New Orleans, Mobile & Chattanooga, 
the Canada Southern; the Union Pa- 
cific, and many others. The last great 
work upon which Mr. Dillon has been en- 
gaged is the "Fourth Avenue improve- 
ment," New York. The contract involves 
$7,000,000, and is a work of great mag- 
nitude. Suffice it to say, that he has been 
engaged in over forty of the leading public 
works of America, and that the contracts 
with which he has been engaged have 
amounted to over $100,000,000. The 
career of Mr. Dillon teaches the lesson, 
that, at the hands of a man thoroughly 



18 



croftjtt's new overland tourist 



conversant with his business, persevering, 
energetic, faithful to trust, upright in his 
relations with his fellow-men, success is sure. 
In person, Mr. Dillon is tall, exceedingly 
well built, and combines suavity of man- 
ner with great promptness of decision in 
action. He was married in 1841, resi- 
dence in New York City, and devotes 
his whole time to directing the interests 
of the 

Union Pacific Railroad. 

Official Headquarters, Railroad Building, 

Omaha, Neb., and 44 Equitable 

Building, Boston, Mass. 

Sidney Dillon, President, New Yorlt. 

Elisha Atkins, Vice-President Boston. 

H. McFarland Sec. and Treas., ' 

S H. H. Clark, .... Gen' I Sup't Omaha. 

J. T. Clark, Asst. Gen'l Sup't, .... " 

J. W. Gannett, — Auditor, 

N. Shbltox Cashier, 

T. E Sickles Chief Engineer, 

Leavitt Burnham .Land Commissioner, 

J.J. Dickey Sup't Telegraph, . . . . 

E P Vining, Gen'l Freight Agent, 

Thos. L. Kimball, Q. P. & T. Agent,... 
F. Knowland, General Eastern Agent, 

287 Broadway, New York. 
D W. Puller, Gen'l Agent for New England, 
Um *" Boston, Mass. 



Though but little faith was at first felt in 
the successful completion of this great 
railway, no one, at the present day, can 
fail to appreciate the enterprise which 
characterized the progress and final com- 
pletion of this road, its immense value to 
the Government, our own people, and the 
world at large. 

By the act of 1862, the time for the com- 
pletion of the road was specified. The ut- 
most limit was July 1, 1876. 

The first contract for construction was 
made in August, 1863, but various con- 
flicting interests connected with the loca- 
tion of the line delayed its progress, and it 
was not until the 5th day of November, 
1865, that the ceremony of breaking ground 
was enacted at a point on the Missouri 
River, near Omaha, Neb. 

The enthusiast, Mr. Train, in his speech 
on the occasion of breaking ground, said 
the road would be completed in five years. 
Old Fogy could not yet understand Young 
America, and, as usual, he was ridiculed 
for the remark, classed as a dreamer and 
visionary enthusiast ; the greater portion of 
the people believing that the limited time 
would find the road unfinished. But it 
was completed in three years, six months, 
and ten days. 



Most Americans are familiar with the 
history of the road, yet but few are aware 
of the vast amount of labor performed in 
obtaining the material with which to con- 
struct the first portion. There was no 
railroad nearer Omaha than 150 miles east- 
ward, and over this space all the material 
purchased in the Eastern cities had to be 
transported by freight-teains at ruinous 
prices. The laborers were, in most cases, 
transported to the railroad by the same 
route and means. Even the engine, of 70 
horse power, which drives the machinery 
at the company's works at Omaha, was 
conveyed in wagons from Des Moines, 
Iowa, that being the only available means 
of transportation at the time. 

For five hundred miles west of Omaha 
the country was bare of lumber save a 
limited supply of cottonwood on the islands 
in and along the Platte River, wholly unfit 
for railroad purposes. East of the river, 
the same aspect was presented, so that the 
company were compelled to purchase ties 
cut in Michigan, Pennsylvania, and New 
York, which cost, delivered at Omaha, 
$2.50 per tie. 

Omaha, at that time, 1863, contained less 
than 3,000 population, mostly a trading peo- 
ple, and the railroad company were com- 
pelled to create, as it were, almost every- 
thing. Shops must be built, forges erected, 
all the machinery for successful work 
must be placed in position, before much 
progress could be made with the work. 
This was accomplished as speedily as cir- 
cumstances would permit, and by January, 
1866, 40 miles of road had been constructed, 
which increased to 265 miles during the 
year; and in 1867, 285 miles more were 
added, making a total of 550 miles on 
January 1, 1868. From that time forward 
the work was prosecuted with greatly in- 
creased energy, and on May 10, 1869, the 
road met the Central Pacific railroad at 
Promontory Point, Utah Territory— the 
last 534 miles having been built in a little 
more than fifteen months; being an 
average of nearly one and one-fifth mile 
per day. 

By arrangements with the Central Pa- 
cific Railroad Company, the Union in 
1870 relinquished to the Central 46 miles 
of road, and again in 1875, another strip of 
6 miles, leaving the entire length of the 
Union, 1,032 miles, and its junction with 
the Central at Ogden, Utah. 

For Snow Difficulties, see Annex No. 13. 



AND PACIFIC COAST. GUIDE. 



10 



TIIMIIE T-A-ZBLIE. 



EASTERN DIVISION. 

OMAHA TO NORTH PLATTE. 



P. J. Nichols, Division Supt. 



J. G. Boyd, Train Dispatcher. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 


OMAHA TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCl's 


Dis'ance 

from 
Omaha. 


STATIONS. 


Elevation 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCrs 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


3:40 p m 


10:26 a m 




Lv. TRANSFER GROUNDS. Ar. 




4 :20 p m 


10:20 pm 


4:45 p m 

5:00 

5 30 


11:50 amt 
12:02 pm 
12:22 
12 :37 
12:55 

1:22 

1:29 

1:39 

1:55 

2:30 t 

2:48 

3:08 

3:26 

3:45 

4:05 

4:25 

4:45 

5:10 

5:38 

6:05 

6:30 

6:45 

7:20 t 

7:40 

8:05 

8:25 

8:40 

9:05 

9:15 

9:39 

9:5a 
10:23 
in -a*- 


4 


Lv....*OMAHA DEPOT. ..Ar. 


... 966.. 
....1142.. 


3:45pm t 

3:35 

3:17 

3:05 . 

2:48 

2:28 

2:20 

2:10 

1:55 

1:40 t 

1:00 
12:40 
12:23 

12:05 pm 
11:45 
11:25 
11:05 
10:40 
10:10 

9:42 

9:15 

9:00 

8:45 t 

8:07 

7:45 

7:23 

7:08 

6:48 

6:38 

6:20 

5:55 

5:30 

5:17 

5:00 

4:40 

4:24 

4:10 

3:42 

3:20 

2:55 

2:38 

2:20 am 


9:E0 pm 
9:15 


.. 10.. 


. . . *Gilmore 


.... 976.. 


8:45 


5 "55 


.. 15... 


*Papillion 


.... 972.. 


8:20 


6:25 
7:10 
7:20 
7:40 


.. 21.... 
.. 29.... 
.. 31 ... 
.. 35... 


. *Millard. . 


... 1047.. 


7:5C 


*Elkhorn 

.... Waterloo 

*Valley 


....1150.. 
... 1140.. 
...1147.. 


7:1C 
6:25 
6:00 


8:10 

9:00t 

9-35 


.. 42.... 
.. 47.. 
.. 54 .. 


Riverside 


... 1120.. 
....1176.. 


5:25 
5:00 t 




....1270.. 


3:45 


10:15 


.. 62.... 


*NorthBend 


....1259.. 
....1359.. 


3:08 


10 '45 


..69 . 




2:15 


11 "25 


. 76 




....1335.. 


1:3C 




.. 84.... 
.. 92... 




....1440.. 


12:51 


12:40 am 


* Columbus 


....1432.. 
....1470.. 


12 :0E p m 


1:20 


.. 99... 




11:05 


2*05 


. ] 09 


*Silver Creek 


....1534.. 


10:20 


3:00 
4*00 


..121.... 
. 132 


♦Clark's 


...1610.. 
....168b.. 


9:2? 

8:35 


4:50 
5 *15 


..U2... 

..148... 
..154.... 
..162 .. 


*Chapmans 


... 1760.. 
....1800.. 


7:45 
7:20 


6:20t 
7:00 


*GRAND ISLAND 

Alda 


....1850.. 
...1907.. 


6:50 t 
5:45 


7:45 
8:20 
8*45 


..170.... 
..178. .. 
..183.... 
..191.... 


*Wood River 


....1974.. 
2010.. 


5:05 
4:30 


.* Gibbon. . . 


.... 2046 . . 


4:05 


9:25 


*Keamy 


.. .2106.. 
....2150.. 
... 2170.. 
.... 2241 . . 
....2305.. 


3 :25 


9:45 
10:15 


..196.... 
..201.... 


*Kearny J unction 

Stevenson 


3:C5 
2:35 


11:20 


212.. 


*Elm Creek 


1:45 


12 :05 p m 
12:28 


..221... 




1.00 


..225... 

. 230... 




....2330.. 


12:35 am 


1:00 t 10:50 




....2370.. 
....2440.. 


12:C0 night 


1:40 11:10 


..239.... 
..245... 




11:10 


2:10 11:28 




....2480.. 


10:40 


2:35 
3:25 


11 :4v 

12:U am 

1^:32 ' 

1:00 

1:20 

2:00 


..250.... 
..260.... 


*Willow Island 


.... 2511 . . 
....2570.. 
....2637.. 
....2695... 


10:;:0 
9:30 


4:05 


..268... 


*Brady Island 


8:50 


4:50 


..278... 




8:05 


5:30 
6-30 t 


..285... 

..291.... 


Gannett 


...2752... 

..2789.. 


7:30 

7:00 pm 



t Meals. * Telegraph. 

The attention of passengers is directed to the elevation of each station. 



Trans fer Ground s.— These 

grounds are about two miles west of Coun- 
cil Bluffs, and about half a mile east of 
the Missouri River bridge. Here, all pas- 
sengers, baggage, express, and mails arriv- 
ing from the eastward, change to the cars 
of the Union Pacific railroad. The Union 



Company have erected a large, fine build- 
ing, which affords ample accommodation 
for passengers, and for the transaction of 
all kinds of business connected with the 
transfer The tracks of the four eastern 
roads termiDate at the eastern front of this 
building. 



20 



CROFUTT'g NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 




UNION PACIFIC DEPOT AND HOTEL. 



Between the tracks of the Eastern roads, 
are long wide platforms over which passen- 
gers, mails, baggage, etc., reach the depot, 
and after passing through the building, 
will find the Union Pacific trains waiting 
on the west side. 

The Union Depot— Is a model of 
convenience, built ot brick with stone 
trimmings — two stories — and besides its 
hotel accommodations on the first floor, 
has two large ladies' and gentlemen's wait- 
ing rooms, ticket, telegraph and express 
offices, baggage and news rooms, restau- 
rant, lunch counter, etc. The second story 
of the building is divided into rooms for 

Hotel Accommodations. — The 
parlors are elegant, the rooms,— 40 in num- 
ber — are very large, furnished in the best 
manner, with hot and cold water, gas, an- 
nunciators, etc. The dining room, as well 
as the office, and bar, is on the first floor, 
in the north wing, seats several hundred, 
is well supplied and well served, and from 
what wc know, the tourist or business man 
who would like to lay over a few days to 
rest, or to attend to business in either 
Council Bluffs or Omaha, can find no bet- 
ter accommodations than at the Union 



Depot Hotel. One word more. This house is 
managed by J. E. Markel & Co. ; the same 
parties who keep the eating house at the 
Omaha Depot, and the dining station, at 
Fremont, 47 miles further west. We com- 
mend them. 

The emigrant House- so-call- 
ed, — is situated a short distance west of the 
Depot on the north side of the track. It 
was built by the Union Pacific Co., and is 
run by their direction for the accommoda- 
tion and protection of their emigrant pas- 
sengers. (See Annex, page 272.) The 
building is of wood, has 70 rooms com- 
fortably furnished, accommodates 200 per- 
sons, and charges only sufficient to cover 
cost; plain, substantial meals, 25 cents 
each : " Runners" and "hoodlums" are not 
allowed about the premises. 

The handling of baggage at this depot 
is no small item. The baggage room is 
very large, as well as the number of 
"smashers," but, as the latter are always 
under the eye of Mr. Traynor, Gen'l Bag- 
gage Agent of the road, the baggage is not 
only handled quick, but with a, fatherly care. 

Passengers will here need to re-check 
their baggage, and secure tickets in one of 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



21 



the Palace Sleeping- Cars that accom- 
panies all through trains, and thereby in- 
sure an opportunity for a refreshing sleep, 
as well as a palace by night and day. 
This, however, costs an extra fee. 
The charges are, over the Union Pacific 
I from Omaha, $8.01) ; from Ogden, over the 
Central Pacific, to the Pacific Coast cities, 
$6.00. 

But as all cannot afford to ride in palace 
cars, "do the next best thing," and secure 
— pre-empt, if you please — the best seat you 
can, and prepare to be as happy as you 
know how. 

Sleeping car and stop-over privileges are 

not allowed on second and third-class tick- 

! ets. Baggage can be checked only to the 

1 destination of second and third-class tick- 

\ ets — 100 lbs. allowed free on each full, and 

i 50 lbs. on each half-ticket of all classes. 

| Extra baggage is $10 to $15 per 100 lbs, 

I according to class. Passengers holding 

first-class tickets to San Francisco, with 

pre-paid orders for steamer passage to 

trans-Pacific ports, will be allowed 250 

lbs. baggage, free, on presentation of such 

orders to the baggage agent at Omaha ; on 

second-class tickets, 150 lbs., free. Orders 

for steamship passage can be purchased at 

the Omaha depot ticket office. 



For rates of Fare see Annex No. 4. 
Lunch Baskets — With only two or three 
exceptions, all the eating-houses on this 
line are good. The good ones have our ap- 
proval, but the others — Oh! well — should 
you provide yourself with a small basket 
of provisions, and use it accordingly, it 
would tend to preserve your temper. The 
accommodations at all the principal sta- 
tions for those who wish to " stop over " a 
day or two, are ample ; charges, from $3,00 
to $4.00 per day. 

For a Brief Sketch of Our Western 
Country — The Far West — Con- 
densed History — Organization of 
the Pacific Railroad— Land Grant 
— Cost of Construction— Material 
Used — Importance of the Road — 
Facts in Brief — Grumblers— See An- 
nex No. 5. 

One Word More— As you arc about to 
launch out upon the broad, sweeping plains, 
the barren desert, and the c;rand old moun- 
tains — for all these varied features of the 
earth's surface will be encountered before 



we reach the Pacific Coast — lay aside all 
city prej udices and ways for the time ; leave 
them here, and for once be natural while 
among nature's loveliest and grandest crea- 
tions. Having done this, you will be pre- 
pared to enjoy the trip — to appreciate the 
scenes which will rise successively before 
you. But, above all forget everything but 
the journey; and in this consists the great 
secret of having a good time generally. 
Are you ready? — The bell rings, "All 
aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves 
the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its 
course due west towards the 

Missouri River Bridge— The construc- 
tion of this bridge was first authorized by 
Congress on the 25th of July, 1866, but very 
little was done until March, 1868, when 
work commenced, and was continued from 
that time until July 26, 1869, when it was 
suspended. Nothing more was done until 
April, 1870, when a second contract was 
made with the American Bridge Company 
of Chicago, and work again commenced. 
On the 24th of February, 1871, Congress 
passed a special act authorizing the Union 
Pacific Railroad Company to construct 
this bridge across the Missouri River, and 
to issue bonds to the amount of $2,500,000. 

The county of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, 
under certain conditions, aid in county 
bonds to the amount of $250,000. Also, 
Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under 
certain conditions, aid to the amount of 
$205,000. 

This bridge is a notable structure (see 
illustration), one-half mile in length, with 
the approaches over one mile. 

It is located below the old depot, and op- 
posite that part of the city of Omaha 
known as "Train-Town," and has a single 
track. 

The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- 
ent." The hollow iron columns are 22 in 
number, two forming a pier. These col- 
umns are made of cast iron one-and-three- 
fourths inches in thickness, 8% feet in di- 
ameter, 10 feet long, and weigh 8 tons each. 
They are bolted together air-tight, and 
sunk to the bed-rock of the river, in one 
case, 82 feet below low-water. 

After these columns are seated on the 
rock foundation, they are filled up twenty 
feet with stone concrete, and from the 
concrete to the bridge "seat," they are 
filled with regular masonry. From high- 
water mark to the bridge "seat," these 
columns measure 50 feet. The eleven 
spans are 250 feet in length, making 




[ISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE — OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE. 



the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. 
These columns were cast in Chicago, 
and delivered in the shape ot enormous 
rings, 10 feet in length. When they were 
being placed in position the workmen 
would take two or more rings, join them 
together, place the column where it was to 
be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, 
then force the water from the column by 
pneumatic pressure, ranging from 10 to 35 
pounds per square inch. The workmen 
descend the columns by means of rope- 
ladders, and fill sand-buckets, which are 
hoisted through the air-lock by a pony-en- 
gine. The sand is then excavated about 
two feet below the bottom of the column, 
the men come out through the air-lock, a 
leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, 
the pneumatic pressure is removed, and 
the column sinks, from three inches to two 
and one-half fret — in one instance, the col- 
umn steadily sank down 17 feet. When- 



ever the column sinks, the sand fills in 
from 10 to 30 feet— in one instance, 40 feet. 
This has to be excavated before another 
sinking of a few inches can take place, 
making altogether a slow and tedious 
process. 

Soon after crossing the bridge, our train 
stops in the Omaha depot— a large build- 
ing with one enormous span overhead, 
built in the most substantial manner, of 
iron and glass, with six tracks running 
through it from end to end. On the south 
side are ample waiting and dining-rooms, 
express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and 
other offices. Passengers who wish to stop 
over, will find omnibuses at the depot to 
take them and their baggage to the hotels, 
or any point in the city ; fare, 50 cents ; or, 
they will find street cars on the north side 
of the depot, that leave every fivo minutes, 
passing the principal hotels, and running 
the whole length of the city ; fare, 5 cents. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



23 



Omaha — This is one of the most pro- 
gressive cities in the West. It is the county 
seat of Douglas county, situated on the 
western bank of the Missouri River, on a 
slope about 50 feet above high- water mark, 
with an altitude of 966 feet above sea level. 
The first "claim cabin" was built here in 
1854, and the place named Omaha, after 
the Omaha Indians. 

It is related that the first postmaster of 
Omaha used his hat for a postoffice, and 
many times, when the postmaster was on 
the prairie, some expectant, anxious indi- 
vidual, would chase him for miles until he 
overtook the traveling postoffice and re- 
ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little 
acorns grow," says the old rhyme , 'tis il- 
lustrated in this case. The battered-hat 
postoffice has given place to a first-class 
postoffice, commensurate with the future 
growth of the city, which now claims a 
population of 24,000. 

In 1875, the Government completed a 
large court-house and postoffice building, 
using a very fine quality of Cincinnati 
free-stone, it is 122 feet in length by 66 
feet in width— four stories high — cost 
$330,000, and is one of the most attractive 
buildings in the city. 

The State capital was first located here, 
but was removed toLincoln in 1868. Omaha 
though the first settlement iriade in Ne- 
braska, is a young city. The town improved 
steadily until lb59, when it commenced 
to gain very rapidly. The inaugurating of 
the Union Pacific railroad gave it another 
onward impetus, and since then the growth 
of the city has been very rapid. There are 
many evidences of continued prosperity 
and future greatness, one of which, is the 
fact that there are no dwelling houses in 
the city "To Let;" besides the organization 
of a Board of Trade, with 128 members ; 
smelting and refining works, employing 
140 men, and reducing ores to the value of 
$5,000,000, annually ; and three banks, with 
a banking capital of $820,000. In 1877, 
there were 2,974 depositors, with average 
deposits of $2,587 021.20. These banks' 
" exchange" for the year, amounted to $38,- 
181,671.88, and their " currency shipments" 
to $8,548,303.00. 

The receipts of wheat, corn, rye, barley, 
oats and flax, at Omaha, for 1877, 
amounted to 1,756,865 bushels; of flour 
16,900 barrels. The shipments for the 
same time were: flour, 5,720 barrels; of 
the grains named above, 1,795,745. 

Omaha has three daily newspapers — 



the Herald, the Republican and the Bee; 
two weeklies, the Journal of Commerce and 
the Commercial Exchange; one tri-weekly, 
the Omaha Post, and one monthly, the 
High School. 

It has 17 hotels, — "hotels till you can't 
rest,"— chief of which are the Withnell 
and the Metropolitan. Of Churches, 
there are 19. Schools, both public and 
private, are numerous, and if the Omaha 
people feel proud of one thing more than 
another, it is of their schools. The city 
has $430,975 invested in free school prop- 
erty, employs 44 teachers, and is educating 
about 3,000 pupils. 

The High School is the finest build- 
ing of its kind in the Western country, and 
stands on Capitol Hill, on the site of the 
old State House, the highest point in the 
city, and is the first object which attracts 
the attention of the traveler approaching 
from the East, North or South. Its eleva- 
tion and commanding position stand forth 
as a fitting monument to attest a people's 
intelligence and worth. See Annex N o. 6. 

To the north of the High School build- 
ing, is the Creighton College, just com- 
pleted at a cost of $35,000, with a further 
endowment of $100,000, the gift of Mrs. 
Edward Creighton. The building is 54 by 
126 feet — three stories and a basement — 
capable of accommodating 480 pupils. It 
will be a, free school, and conducted by the 
Jesuit Fathers. 

The annual report of the Board of Trade 
gives the amount expended for buildings 
and improvements, in Omaha, for 1878, as 
$1,000,000.— Figures talk."— The same au- 
thority says : "fn addition to the receipts of 
base metal and ore, amounting to 3 249 
car-loads as freight, there were received 
$34,385,516 in gold bullion and coin, and 
$15,936,843 in silver bullion and coin by 
the Union Pacific Express Company. In 
other words, Omaha handled over $60,000,- 
000 out of a total production of $98,000,000. 

The Willow Springs Distillery, near the 
city, used, in 1877, 196,550 bushels of grain, 
made 624,000 gallons of spirits, paid to the 
Government, for tax, $532,856.10, fattened 
1,500 head of cattle, and 2,000 hogs. 

The Union Elevator is another new es- 
tablishment. It cost $15,000, and handles 
grain by gravity. It is built on the side of 
a hill, so that cars are unloaded into the 
top of the building. Ten cars can be un- 
loaded into the bins on the upper track, 
and at the same time ten can be loaded 
from the spout on the lower side. The 



24 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. 



cars are unloaded into two rows of pits, 
holding a carload each, the upper bins 
running the grain through the cleaners, 
and the lower bins to the elevators, of which 
there are two in number, although gravity 
does the work when cleaning, and grading 
is unnecessary. 

STOCK BUSINESS. 

The completion of three large stock 
yards during the year 1878, and the open- 
ing of a regular market for the purchase 
and sale of "cattle, hogs, sheep, and horses 
has been another important feature of 
progress made, and has led to the erection 
of two new packing-houses, with a largely 
increased capacity over those previously 
operated. 

During the year there have been received 
at this point 120,000 head of beef cattle, 
besides 140,000 head of hogs and sheep. 
In round numbers, the Union Pacific 
brought to this city 96,000 cattle, or 4,780 
car loads ; also 53,000 hogs, besides seme 
8,000 sheep and horses. The Burlington 
& Missouri road brought in 20,000 hogs 
and 500 horses and sheep. The Omaha & 
Northwestern brought into Omaha 3,320 
cattle and 34,000 hogs. Besides the arrivals 
by rail, there were a large number of cattle 
and sheep driven in for local and feeding pur- 
poses, and hogs, in wagons, for packing and 
shipping purposes. The largest receipts 
in any one month were in October, when 
the arrivals by the Union Pacific alone, at 
Omaha, were 33,548,120 lbs of beef cattle, 
and the next largest, in September, when 
the receipts were 28,498,600 lbs by the same 
roads. These cattle are of a superior qual- 
ity and grade, and are concentrated at this 
point from Kansas, Colorado, Wyoming, 
Utah, Nevada, Dakota, Montana, Idaho, 
Oregon, Nebraska, and Iowa. The re- 
ceipts for three years are as follows : 1876, 
60,000 head; 1877, 95,000; 1878, 120,000. 

Among; the manufactories of Omaha is 
an oil mill, that consumes $95,000 of raw 
material annually. 

The latent Omaha enterprise is the Omaha 
White Lead Co., organized in 1878, with a 
paid-up capital of $100,000. The works 
are to be located one half-mile west of 
the U. P. Depot. 

Labor.— Common labor commands from 
$1.25 to $ 1 .50 per day. Skilled labor from 
$1.75 to $2.25 per day. Special and ex- 
pert labor from $2.50 to $3.50 per day. 
The supply of laborers in all branches is 
abundant. 



Omaha has a beautiful driving park, 
known as Hanscom Park, the gift of Mr. 
A. J. Hanscom and Mr. James G. McGath. 
It is situated about one mile southwest 
from the center of the city, contains 80 
acres, is in as romantic and picturesque a 
locality as one could wish, with a perfect 
forest of shade trees and beautiful walks, 
fountains, etc., and, in fact, is " a thing of 
beauty," and to the citizens of Omaha, we 
believe, will be "a joy forever." 

The Grand Central Hotel— the pride of 
the Omaha people — was destroyed by fire 
in the summer of 1878. This fire leaves 
the city deficient of first-class hotel accom- 
modations, but we hear a movement is be- 
ing made by some of the most enterprising 
citizens, to rebuild at an early day. 

Omaha is the headquarters of the De- 
partment of the Platte. Fort Omaha was 
established here in 1868 , the barracks are 
eight in number, capable of accommoda- 
ting 1,000 men. They are situated about 
3 miles north, and in full view of the city. 
Latitude, 40 deg. 20 min. ; longitude, 96 
deg. from Greenwich. Eighty acres of 
land are held as reserved, though no reser- 
vation has yet been declared at this post. 
There is an excellent carriage-road to the 
barracks, and a fine drive around them, 
which affords pleasure parties an excellent 
opportunity to witness the dress-parades of 
" the boys in blue." It is a favorite resort. 
The parade, the fine drive and improve- 
ments around the place, calling out many 
of the fashionable pleasure-seekers of 
Omaha. The grounds have been planted 
with shade-trees, and in a few years it will 
become one of the many pleasant places 
around the growing city of Omaha. 

The post is the main distributing point 
for all troops and stores destined for the 
West. The barracks were erected for the 
purpose of quartering the troops during 
the winter season when their services were 
not required on the plains, and as a gener- 
al rendezvous for all troops destined for 
that quarter. 

Besides the Union Pacific, there are two 
other railroads that branch off from Omaha. 
The Omaha & Northern Nebraska, .and 
the Burlington and Missouri in Nebraska. 
These roads were chartered under the gen- 
eral railway act which gave two thousand 
acres of land for every mile of road com- 
pleted before a specified time. The route 
of the Northern is five miles up the Mis- 
souri River Valley, then northwest to 
the valley of the Papillion, thence to the 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



25 



Elkkorn River, and up the Elkhorn Valley 
to the mouth of the Niobrara. It is now 
completed, and cars are running to Teka- 
mah, Burt county — about 50 miles from 
Omaha. At Blair connections are made 
with the Sioux City & Pacific railroad. 

The route of the B. & M. of Nebraska 
Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, 
where it crosses the Platte and runs to 
Lincoln. This road is under the manage- 
ment of the Burlington & Missouri River 
Railroad Co., and makes close connections 
at Orepolis with the main line of the B. & 
M. for the East and West. 

At Omaha, are located the general offi- 
ces of the Union Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany, in a fine, large building just com- 
pleted and fitted up in the most complete 
and convenient manner. This company 
employs about 5,000 men; this includes 
the men employed in the Laramie rolling 
mill and in the coal mines. There are 
about 4,000 employed on the road proper : 
there are over 700 employed in the shops 
at Omaha, and about 800 more in the vari- 
ous offices, at stations, on the track, and at 
the depots at Omaha, making 1,500 in all 
that are on the Omaha pay rolls. 

The rolling stock equipments consist, 
in part, of 168 engines, 25 first-class passen- 
ger cars, 23 sleepers, 2,345 box and flat cars, 
500 coal and 120 stock, together with mail, 
express, baggage, way, and other cars, 
making a total of 3,060. 

The company have prepared a building, 
just east of their depot, for the benefit of 
emigrant passengers. The house is given 
rent free to a competent person who 
charges 25 cents each, for good plain 
meals, and good lodgings. All gambling, 
emigrant runners, peddlers, ticket-sellers, 
and "bummers" are forbidden in the house 
or about the premises. 

About one mile above the bridge, on the 
low lands fronting the river, the railroad 
company have located their principal 
shops and store-houses. They are built of 
brick, in the most substantial form, and 
with the out buildings, lumber yard, tracks, 
etc., cover about 30 acres of ground. 

The machine shop is furnished with all 
the new and most improved machinery, 
which is necessary for the successful work- 
ing at all the branches of car and locomo- 
tive repairs or car construction. The 
round-house contains 20 stalls; the 
foundry, blacksmith shop, car and paint 
shops, are constructed and furnished in 
the best manner. The company manufac- 



ture all of their own cars. The passen- 
ger cars, in point of neatness, finish, 
strength of build and size, are unsurpassed 
by any. and rivaled by few manufactured 
elsewhere. It is the expressed determina- 
tion of the Union Pacific Company to pro- 
vide as good cars and coaches for the trav- 
eling public in style and finish as those of 
any Eastern road. They reason, that as the 
great trans-continental railroad is the long- 
est and grandest on the continent, its roll- 
ing-stock should be equally grand and mag- 
nificent. From the appearance of the cars 
already manufactured, they will achieve 
their desires. On the same principle, we 
proposed to make our Book superior to 
any other. 

Haven't we done so f 

Our train runs along through the south- 
ern suburbs of the city, on an ascending 
grade 3 2-10 miles, to 

Summit Siding— a flag station, 
where trains seldom stop. Elevation, 1,142 
feet, 176 higher than the Omaha depot. 
But our route is now downward for 6 3-10 
miles to 

Gilmore — The country around this 
station is rich prairie land, well cultivated. 
A small cluster of buildings stands near 
the road ; the station is of little importance, 
merely for local accommodation. 

Continuing our descent 5 miles, we reach 

Papillion (Pap-e-o)— Here we are at 
the lowest elevation on the whole line, 
excepting Omaha, which is 6 feet lower. 
From this station to Sherman, on the 
Black Hills, 535 miles, it will be a grad- 
ual up-grade, rising in the distance 7,270 
feet. 

Papillion is the county seat of Sarpy 
county and has the usual county buildings, 
3ome of which are fine structures. The 
Times, a weekly paper, is published here. 
The station is on the east side of Papillion 
River, a narrow stream of some 50 miles 
in length, which, running southward, 
empties into Elkhorn River, a few miles 
below the station. The bridge over the 
stream is a very substantial wooden struc- 
ture . _ The country about the station has 
been improved very much within the last 
few years ; it has fully doubled its popu- 
lation, which is now about 1,000, and evi- 
dences of thrift appear on every hand. 

Soon after leaving the station, we cross 
the Papillion River, and 6 4-10 miles brings 
us to 



26 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




HANGING ROCK, ECHO CANYON, UTAH. 



Millard— an unimportant station to the 
tourist, is situated in the midst of a fine 
agricultural section — two stores, a flouring 
mill and hotel; population about 300. 
Eight miles further, we come to 

Kl k horn —which is on the east bank 
of Elkhorn River, and of considerable im- 
portance as a point for freight traffic— it be- 
ing the outlet of Elkhorn River valley. 

Elkhorn River — is a stream of about 
300 miles in length. It rises among the 
hills of the Divide, near where the head- 
waters of the Niobrara River rise and wend 
their way toward their final destination, 
the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn 
creek, or river, is east of south. It is one 
of the few streams in this part suitable for 
mill purposes, and possesses many excel- 
lent mill sites along its course. The valley 
of this stream averages about eight miles 
in width, and is of the best quality of 
farming land. It is thickly settled by Ger- 
manstfor over 200 miles of its length from 
its junction with the Platte River. The 



stream abounds in native fish, as well as a 
great variety of "fancy brands" from the 
East — a car load of which were accidently 
emptied into the water at the bridge, while 
en route to be placed in the * lakes and 
streams 'of California, during the spring 
of 1873. 

Wild turkeys on the plains, and among 
the low hills, along with deer and antelope, 
afford sport and excitement for the hunter. 
The river swarms with ducks and geese at 
certain seasons of the year, that come here 
to nest and feed. The natural thrift of 
the Settlers is manifested in his well-con- 
ducted farms, comfortable houses, sur- 
rounded by growing orchards and well- 
tilled gardens. There is no pleasanter val- 
ley in Nebraska than this, or one where 
the traveler will find a better field for ob- 
serving the rapid growth and great natural 
resources of the Northwest; and should he 
choose to pass a week or more in hunting 
and fishing, he will find ample sport and a 
hospitable home with almost any of the 



CROFTJTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



27 



thrifty settlers. 
Two miles from Elkhorn is 
Waterloo— a small side-track station 
where passenger trains seldom stop. Here, 
too, is a flouring mill, store, school-house, 
and some neat little cottages of the well-to- 
do farmers. 
From this station it is 4 3-10 miles to 
Valley — This station shows a marked 
improvement within the last few years; 
there are a score of new buildings in sight ; 
elevation, 1,147 feet. The curious who 
wish to note the elevation — station by sta- 
tion—are referred to the "Time Table" at 
the commencement of each division, where 
the figures will be found for each station 
on the whole line of road. 

The Omaha & Republican 
Valley Railroad — branches off 
southwesterly from Valley. It is com- 
pleted to Rising 71 miles distant. 

The road crosses the Platte River on a 
pile bridge 2,200 feet long, and enters 
Saunders county, crosses the river bot- 
tom, and reaches 

Clear Creek — the first station from 
Valley, 7 miles distant. 

Passing on over a rolling prairie, 5 miles 
further, we come to 

Alvin— a station named for Senator Al- 
vin Saunders, of Nebraska. This is a small 
place, composed of a thrifty farming 
neighborhood. Five miles from here is 

Wahoo — the county seat of Saunders 
county. 

Wahoo is situated on a broad plateau, 
near the depot, in the midst of a farming 
country, where they raise 60 bushels of 
corn, 50 bushels of oats, and 25 bushels of 
wheat to the acre, and other crops in pro- 
portion. There are three flouring mills in 
the town. The court house, school, and 
other buildings are very good. Near the 
town is located one of the finest fair 
grounds and race-tracks in the State. The 
Wahoo House is the hotel to stop at, and 
the Independent, a weekly paper published 
here, the paper to subscribe for, if you 
want to keep posted on what is going on 
in and around the country. 

Leaving Wahoo, the face of the country 
becomes more rolling, and after crossing 
Wahoo Creek and making a run of eight 
miles, we reach 

Weston — It is still young, but a very 
prosperous little place, nine miles from 

Valaparaso— asmali place of four stores, 
a hotel, and school-house, situated on Oak 
Creek, on which is some very fine land, as 



well as large groves of oak. 

Brainard — comes next, three miles from 
Valparaiso, after rolling over numerous cuts 
and rough country. Ten miles more, and 
we are at the end of the track, at 

David City — county seat of Butler 
county. Population about 250, with two 
weekly newspapers, the Republican and the 
Press. There are four churches and several 
schools, at David City. 

The Saunders House is the principal 
hotel. 

Mr. S. H. H. Clark, the Gen. Supt. of the 
Union Pacific,- is President of the 0..& 
R. V., and it is understood to be owned by 
the Union Pacific parties, under whose 
management it is now conducted 

We will now return to Valley, and pro- 
ceed westward. 

From Valley the Bluffs on the south 
side of the Platte River can be seen in the 
distance, but a few miles away, in a south- 
westerly direction. Soon after leaving the 
station we catch the first glimpse of the 
Platte River, on our left. Seven miles fur- 
ther over the broad plain brings us to 

Riverside — an unimportant station, 
from which it is 4 3-10 miles to 

Fremont —the county seat of Dodge 
county, situated about three miles north of 
the Platte River, and contains a population 
of about 3,500. Passenger trains stop here, 
both from the East and the West, for din- 
ner. The eating house is one of the best 
on the whole line. * 

The company have here, besides their 
excellent depot, a round-house with six 
stalls. The public buildings include a jail 
and court-house, seven churches, and some 
fine school-houses. Also a fine opera 
house. The Occidental is the principal 
hotel. Eight years ago we said: "It 
was a thriving place in the midst of 
a beautiful country." Now it is a city 
of no mean pretentions. Within the past 
eight years there has been built nearly 
eight hundred dwelling houses, with stores 
of all kinds in proportion. All of this 
"beautiful country" has been taken up and 
occupied by thrifty farmers, who are reap- 
ing an abundant reward for their labor. 

The Herald, a daily and weekly, and the 
Tribune— weekly, are the newspapers pub- 
lished here. 

The Sioux City & Pacific R. R. con- 
nects here with the U. P. and runs 
through to Mo. Valley, Iowa, where it con- 
nects with the Chicago & Northwestern 
R. R. 



28 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



29 



It is claimed this route is 33 miles 
shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we 
do not know of any through travel ever 
going by this line, and judge the local 
travel to be its sole support. 

The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- 
road to the northward is completed to 
Wisner, about 50 miles, and trains are run- 
ning regularly. This road runs through a 
very rich and well cultivated country, 
where wheat yields as high as 30 bushels 
to the acre. 

Fremont is connected with the south 
side of the Platte by a wagon bridge that 
cost over $50,000. 

The Platte River — We are now going 
up the Platte, and for many miles we shall 
pass closely along the north bank ; at other 
times, the course of the river can only be 
traced by the timber growing on its banks. 
Broad plains are the principal features, 
skirted in places with low abrupt hills, 
which here, in this level country, rise to 
the dignity of "bluffs." 

It would never do to omit a description 
of this famous stream, up 
the banks of which so many 
emigrants toiled in the 
" Whoa, haw " times, from 
1850 to the time when the 
railroad superseded the "prai- ] 
rie schooner." How many g 
blows from the ox-whip have 
fallen on the sides of the pa- 
tient oxen as they toiled along, 
hauling the ponderous wag- 
ons of the freighters, or the 
lighter vehicles of the emi- 
grant ! How often the sharp 
ring of the "popper" aroused 
the timid hare or graceful 
antelope, and frightened 
them away from their meal 
of waving grass ! How many 
tremendous, jaw - breaking 
oaths fell from the lips of 
the "bull-whackers" during 
that period, we will not even 
guess at; but pious divines 
tell us that there is a Statisti- 
cian who has kept a record 
of all such expletives; to 
that authority we refer our 
readers who are fond of fig- 
ures. Once in a while, too, 
the traveler will catch a 
glimpse of a lone* grave, 
marked by a rude head-board, 
on these plains ; and with the 



time and skill to decipher the old and 
time-stained hieroglyphics with which it 
is decorated, will learn that it marks the 
last resting-place of some emigrant or 
freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid 
down here and gave up the fainting spirit 
to the care of Him who gave it ; or, per- 
chance, will learn that the tenant of this 
rentless house fell while defending his 
wife and children from the savage Indians, 
who attacked the train in the gray dawn or 
darker night. There is a sad, brief his- 
tory connected with each told to the passer- 
by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly b}' the 
broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the 
mouldering head-board. However rude or 
rough the early emigrants may have been, 
it can never be charged to them that they 
ever neglected a comrade. The sick were 
tenderly nursed, the dead decently buried, 
and their graves marked by men who had 
shared with them the perils of the trip. 
Those were days, and these plains the 
place that tried men's mettle ; and here the 
Western frontiersman shone superior to all 




HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. 



30 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



others who ventured to cross the "vast 
desert," which stretched its unknown 
breadth between him and the land of his 
desires. Brave, cool and wary as the sav- 
age, with his unerring rifle on his arm, he 
'was more than a match for any red devil he 
might encounter . Patient under adversity, 
fertile in resources, he was an invaluable 
aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter 
foe. This type of people is fast passing 
away. 

The change wrought w T ithin the last 
few years has robbed the plains of its 
most attractive feature, to those who are 
far away from the scene— the emigrant 
train. Once, the south bank of the Platte 
was one broad thoroughfare, whereon the 
long trains of the emigrants, with their 
white-covered wagons, could be seen 
stretching away for many miles in an almost 
unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of 
the same river, in almost full view of the 
"old emigrant load," the "cars are bearing 
tne freight and passengeis rapidly west- 
ward, while the oxen that used to toil so 
wearily along this route, have been trans- 
formed into "western veal" to tickle the 
palates of those passengers, or else, like 
Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to 
"move on" to some new fields of labor. 

To give some idea of the great amount 
of freighting done on these plains we pre- 
sent a few figures, which were taken from 
the books of freighting firms in Atchison, 
Kansas. In 1865, this place was the prin- 
cipal point on the Missouri River, from 
which freight was forwarded to the Great 
West, including Colorado, Utah, Montana, 
&c. There were loaded at this place, 
4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 
29,720 oxen. To control and drive these 
trains, an army of 5,610 men was em- 
ployed. The freight taken by these trains 
amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these 
authenticated accounts, the estimated busi- 
ness of the other shipping points, and the 
amount is somewhat astounding. Compe- 
tent authority estimated the amount of 
freights shipped during that season from 
Kansas City, Leavenworth, St. Joe, Omaha 
and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not 
more than was shipped from Atchison, 
with a corresponding number of men, 
wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these 
estimates to be correct, we have this result : 
During 1865, there were employed in this 
business, 8,960 wagons, 14,620 mules, 59,- 
440 cattle, and 11,220 men, who moved to 
its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To 



accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 
289,300 was invested in teams and wagons, 
alone. 

But to return to the river, and leave facts 
and figures for something more interesting. 
"But," says the reader, "Ain't the Platte 
River a fact?" Not much, for at times, 
after you pass above Julesburg, there is 
more fancy than fact in the streams. In 
1863, teamsters were obliged to excavate 
pits in the sand of the river-bed before they 
could find water enough to water their 
stock. Again, although the main stream 
looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- 
jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" 
of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many 
places it looks broad and deep ; try it, and 
you will find that your feet touch the 
treacherous sand ere your instep is under 
water ; another place, the water appears to 
be rippling along over a smooth bottom, 
close to the surface ; try that, and in you 
go, over your head in water, thick with 
yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte 
when you examine it in this manner. The 
channel is continually shifting, caused by 
the vast quantities of sand which are con- 
tinually floating down its muddy tide. The 
sand is very treacherous, too, and woe to 
the unlucky wight who attempts to cross 
this stream before he has become acquaint- 
ed with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be 
introduced to the river and all its branches 
before he undertakes the perilous task. In 
crossing the river in early times, should 
the wagons come to a stop, down they sank 
in the yielding quicksand, until they were 
so firmly imbedded that it required more 
than double the original force to pull them 
out ; and often they must be unloaded, to 
prevent the united teams from pulling 
them to pieces, while trying to lift the load 
and wagon from the sandy bed. The 
stream is generally very shallow during 
the fall and winter ; in many places no 
more than six or eight inches in depth, 
over the whole width of the stream. Nu- 
merous small islands, and some quite 
large, are seen while passing along, which 
will be noticed in their proper place. 

The Platte River has not done much for 
navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the 
waters of a vast scope of country, thereby 
rendering the immense valleys fertile; 
many thousand acres of which, during the 
past few years, have been taken up and 
successfully cultivated. 

The average width of the river, from 
where it empties into the Missouri to the 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



31 



junction of the North and South Forks, is 
not far from three-fourths of a mile ; its 
average depth is six inches. In the months 
of September and October the river is at 
its lowest stage. 

The lands lying along this river are a 
portion of the land granted to the Union 
Pacific railroad, and the company are 
offering liberal terms and great inducements 
to settlers. Much of the land is as fine 
agricultural and grazing land as can be 
found in any section of the Northwest. 
Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate 
these plains, as some are inclined to think 
is the case, there is plenty of fall in either 
fork, or in the main river, for the purpose, 
and during the months when irrigation is 
required, there is plenty of water for that 
purpose, coming from the melting snow on 
the mountains. Ditches could be led from 
either stream and over the plains at little 
expense. Many, however, claim that in 
ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary. 

From Omaha to the Platte River, the 
course of the road is southerly, until it 
nears the river, when it turns to the west, 
forming, as it were, an immense elbow. 
Thence along the valley, following the 
river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight 
southerly depression of its westerly course ; 
but from thence to the North Platte it re- 
covers the lost ground, and at this point is 
nearly due west from Fremont, the first 
point where the road reaches the river, 
That is as far as we will trace the course 
of the road at present. 

The first view of the Platte Valley is im- 
pressive, and should the traveler chance to 
behold it for the first time in the spring or 
early summer, it is then very beautiful ; 
should he behold it for the first time, when 
the heat of the summer's sun has parched 
the plains, it may not seem inviting ; its 
beauty may be gone, but its majestic grand- 
eur still remains. The eye almost tires in 
searching for the boundary of this vast ex- 
panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- 
tain peak in the distance, as proof that 
the horizon is not the girdle that en- 
circles this valley. 

When one gazes on mountain peaks and 
dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and 
mountain torrents, the mind is filled with 
awe and wonder, perhaps fear of Jiim who 
hath created these grand and sublime won- 
ders. On the other, hand, these lovely 
plains and smiling yallevs — clothed in 
verdure and decked with flowers— fill the 
mind with love and veneration for their 



Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- 
sion of a joy and beauty which shall last 
forever. 

Returning to Fremont— and the railroad 
— we proceed seven miles to 

Ames— formerly called Ketchum— 
only a side track. Near this station, and at 
other places along the road, the traveler 
will notice fields fenced with a fine willow 
hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- 
ly. Eight miles further we reach 

North Bend — which is situated near 
the river bank, and surrounded by a fine 
agricultural country, where luxuriant 
crops of corn give evidence of the fertility 
of the soil. The place has materially im- 
proved within the last few years and now 
has some fine stores, two hotels, a grain 
elevator, and about 75 dwellings and 
places of business, and a population of 
about 350. Young cottonwood groves have 
been set out in many places— good fences 
built, and altogether the town has a pro- 
gressive appearance. 

Leaving the station, for a few miles the 
railroad track is laid nearer the river's 
bank than at any point between Fremont 
and North Platte. Seven miles from here 
we arrive at 

Rogers — a new station, and appar- 
ently one of promise — 7 4-10 miles further 
is 

Schuyler— the county seat of Colfax 
county, containing about 800 inhabitants, 
and rapidly improving. It has five 
churches, two very good hotels, with court- 
house, jail, school-houses, many stores, a 
grain elevator, and several small manu- 
factories. The bridge over the Platte 
River, two miles south, centres at this 
town a large amount of business from the 
south side of the river. 

From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to 

Richland— formerly called Cooper— 
a small side-track station, from which it is 
eight miles to 

Columbus— the county seat of Platte 
county, a substantial growing city, which 
contains about 2,000 inhabitants," has two 
banks, six churches, several schools, good 
hotels, and two weekly newspapers, — the 
Platte Journal and the Era. The Ham- 
mond is the principal hotel. 

Columbus— from its location in the 
midst of the finest agricultural lands in 
the Platte Valley, with the rich valley of 
the Loup on the north — has advantages 
that will, at no distant day, make it a city 
of many thousand inhabitants. 



32 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



George Francis Train called Columbus 
the geographical center of the United 
States, and advocated the removal of the 
National Capitol to this place. We have 
very little doubt, should George ever be 
elected President, he will carry out the 
idea, when we shall behold the Capital of 
the Union located on these broad plains— but 
we shall not buy corner lots on the strength 
of the removal. 

In July and August, 1867, Columbus was 
a busy place, and the end of the track. 
Over 10,000,000 lbs. of Government corn 
and other freight was re-shipped from 
here to Fort Laramie, and the military 
camps in the Powder River country. This 
was the first shipment of freight over the 
Union Pacific railroad. 

Numerous railroads to the north and 
south are projected from Columbus, and 
its future prospects are bright. 

Soon after leaving Columbus we cross 
Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in 
the most substantial manner. This stream 
rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte 
City, and runs through a fine farming 
country until it unites with the Platte. 
Plenty of fish of various kinds are found 
in the stream, and its almost innumerable 
tributaries. These little streams water a 
section of country unsurpassed in fertility 
and agricultural resources. Game in 
abundance is found in the valley of the 
Loupe, consisting of deer, antelope, turkeys 
and prairie chickens, while the streams 
abound in ducks and geese. 

From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to 

Jackson — surrounded by well-culti- 
vated fields. 

Passing along, and just before reaching 
the next station, we cross a small stream 
called Silver Creek. From Jackson it is 
10 1-10 miles to the next station — 

Silver Creek — This section of coun- 
try has improved very rapidly during the 
last few years, and we notice many sub- 
stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- 
tion — many new buildings. 

To the northeast of this station is the 
old Pawnee Indian Reservation, but not 
visible from the cars It covered a tract 
of country 15x30 miles in area, most of 
which is the best of land. About 2,000 
acres are under cultivation. The tribe, num- 
bering about 2,000, were removed to the In- 
dian Territory in 1878 by the Government 
and the lands sold at auction. 

Again we speed westward, 7 3-10 miles to 



Clark's — a small station named in 
honor of the General Superintendent of the 
road. 

The surrounding country is remarkably 
rich in the chief wealth of a nation — agri- 
culture — and has made rapid progress. 
Of late years, several new stores, a church, 
school-house, and many dwellings have 
been added, indicating permanent pros- 
perity. 

From Clark's it is 11 2-10 miles to 

Lone Tree — the county seat of Mer- 
rick county. It contains a population of 
about 600, and is surrounded by thrifty 
farmers. The "old emigrant road" from 
Omaha to Colorado crosses the river op- 
posite this point, at the old "Shinn's Ferry." 
A bridge is now contemplated, and will be i 
found of great commercial advantage to : 
the town. 

The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, 
call the place "Central City," in anticipa- 
tion of the early completion of the Ne- 
braska Central railroad to this place. 
Cottonwood trees have been planted by 
many of the settlers about their homes, 
which present a cheerful and homelike ap- 
pearance. 

Passengers should notice the railroad 
track — for 40 miles it is constructed as 
straight as it is possible to build a road. 
When the sun is low in the horizon, at 
certain seasons of the year, the view is very 
fine. 

Rolling along 10 4-10 miles, and we ar- 
rive at 

Chapman 's — a small place, compris- 
ing a few buildings, near the station, but 
the country around about is a broad prai- 
rie, and nearly all improved and settled by 
thrifty farmers. 

From Chapman, we continue west 5 5-10 
miles to 

Ijockwood— a small side-track station. 
Six miles further and we are at our supper 
station, 

Grand Island— the county seat of 
Hall county, which contains a population 
of about 1,500. It is provided with the 
usual county buildings, several banks, 
churches of various denominations, good 
schools, several hotels, many stores, some 
very pretty private residences, and two 
weekly newspapers, the Independent and 
the Times; also one of the largest steam 
flouring mills in the State. 

Grand Island is a regular eating station, 
where trains going west stop 30 minutes 
for supper, and those for the East have the 



JU 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



33 




DEVIL'S SLIDE, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. 



same length of time for breakfast. The 
eating-house is on the right or north side 
of the track, in a large, new building, and 
the meals served are very good. It is 
claimed that this town will become a great 
railroad center — \tmay, when it does we 
shall be pleased to record the fact. One 
thing is certain, the bridge over the Platte 
River to the south, and the one over Loupe 
Fork to the northward, has had a tendency 
to center a large amount of trade at this 
point. 

The Union Pacific Railroad Company 
have located here machine and repair 
shops, round-house, etc., being the end of 
the first power division west of Omaha. 

This station wa^ named after Grand Is- 
land in the Platte River, two miles distant, 
one of the largest in the river, being about 



80 miles in length by four in width. The 
Island is well wooded — cottonwood princi- 
pally, and, some j^ears after completion of 
the railroad was a government reservation. 
When the road was first built to Grand 
Island, buffalo were quite numerous, their 
range extending over 200 miles to the 
westward. In the spring, these animals 
were wont to cross the Platte, from the Ar- 
kansas and Republican valleys, where they 
had wintered, to the northern country, re- 
turning again, sleek and fat, late in the 
fall; but since the country has become 
settled, few, if any, have been seen. In 
1860, immense numbers were on these 
plains on the south side of the Platte, near 
Fort Kearny, the herds being so large 
that often emigrant teams had to stop 
while they were crossing the road. At 



Chinese Cheap Labor— "Work for nothing and 
hoard yourself"— from the inhabitants of your 
neighbor's hen-roost. 
3 



It is said that in San Francisco the people can 
drink, and carry more without staggering, than in 
any city of the world. 



34 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



Fort Kearny, in 1859 and 1860, an order 
was issued forbidding the soldiers to shoot 
the buffalo on the parade ground. 

Proceeding westward 7 7-10 miles, we 
reach 

A 1(1 a — a small station just east of 
Wood River. 

After crossing the river, the road follows 
along near the west bank for many miles, 
through a thickly settled country, the 
farms in summer being covered with lux- 
uriant crops of wheat, oats and corn. Wood 
River rises in the bluffs, and runs south- 
east until its waters unite with those of the 
Platte. Along the whole length of the 
stream and its many tributaries, the land 
for agricultural purposes is surpassed by 
none in the Northwest, and we might say 
in the world. The banks of the river aud 
tributaries are well wooled, the streams 
abound in fish and wild-fowl, and the 
country adjacent is well supplied wiih 
game, deer, antelope, turkeys, chickens, 
rabbits, etc., forming a fine field for the 
sportsman. 
This valley was one of the earliest settled in 
Central Nebraska, the hardy pioneers tak- 
ing up their lands when the savage Indians 
held possession of this, their favorite hunt- 
ing-ground. Many times the settlers 
were driven from their homes by the In- 
dians, suffering fearfully in loss of life and 
property, but as often returned again, 
and again, until they succeeded in secur- 
ing a firm foothold. To-day the evidences 
of the struggle can be seen in the low, 
strong cabins, covered on top with turf, 
and the walls loop-holed, and enclosed 
with the same material, which guards the 
roofs from the fire-brands, bullets and ar- 
rows of the warriors. 
From Alda, it is 8 1-10 miles to 
Wood River — a small station. Here 
can be seen one of the old-fashioned speci- 
mens of plains station-men, in the person 
of Charley Davis. He keeps an eating- 
house and saloon, where freight and emi- 
grant trains often stop for meals. Char- 
ley's specialty is the "Jerusalem Pickle." 
A good "square meal" is served for 50 
cents. 
Passing on 7 5-10 miles, we reach 
Shelton — a side-track, where a flour- 
ing mill, store, and a few dwelling houses 
constitute the place. To the westward 5 
8-10 miles, is 

Gibbon — It is situated in the midst of 
a fine farming country, was once the coun- 
ty seat of Buffalo county, and is a thriving 



place, with a population of about 100. 
Proceeding, it is 8 4-10 miles to 
ISbelby— (formerly Kearny)— a small 
station of little account. 

Westward again 4 miles, and we reach 
a place of some importance, 

Kearny Junction— named for the 
old fort of that name on the south side of 
the river, nearly opposite — the county seat 
of Buffalo county. Here the Burlington 
& Missouri River railroad, and the Den- 
ver & St. Joseph railroad, form a junction 
with the Union Pacific coming in from the 
south, on the same track, which crosses a 
bridge over the Platte River, two miles 
distant. 

In 1873, the first few buildings were 
erected here, since which time the place 
has improved wonderfully. It now con- 
tains a population of over 1,200, with two 
weekly papers, the Times and the Press. 

The citizens, as a class, are enterprising, 
law-abiding representatives from nearJy 
every state in America, with a few from 
foreign countries. 

The local business coming in on the B. 
& M. and the St. Joseph roads, makes this 
place one of unusual activity and business 
promise. The town contains the usual 
county buildings, which are built of brick, 
has two banks, six fine churches, two 
schools, many stores of all kinds, several 
hotels — the Atkins and the Grand Central 
are the principal — and some fine private 
residences. 

The country around the town is not as 
good agricultural land as we have seen 
further to the eastward, yet some good 
crops of grain are raised, and large quanti- 
ties are hauled here, to be shipped to the 
East, West and South. 

From this point west, the country is oc- 
cupied principally by the stock men. 

Stages leave here daily, except Sunday, 
for the Republican Valley, and all interme- 
diate points, carrying the U. S. mail to 
Franklin, Bloomington, Republican City, 
Orleans and Melrose, where connections 
are made with stages for every town in the 
Upper Republican Valley and Northern 
Kansas. 

Let us take a look at the grounds on 
which stood old 

Fort Kearny — This post was first 
established at Fort Childs, Indian Terri- 
tory, in 1848, by volunteers of the Mexican 
war — changed to Fort Kearny in March, 
1849. In 1858 the post was re-built by the 
late Brevet-Colonel Charles May, 3d Dra- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



35 



goons. It is situated 
five miles south of 
Kearny station, and 
nine miles via Bur- 
lington & Missouri 
railroad from Kearny 
junction, on the south 
bank of the Platte, 
which is at this point 
three miles wide, and 
filled with small isl- 
ands. The fort is in 
latitude 40 deg. 33 
min., longitude 99 deg. 
6min. 

In the fall of 1872, 
all the Government 
buildings, wo:th mov- 
ing, were removed to 
North Platte and Sid- 
ney, on the Union Pa- 
cific railroad, 291 and 
412 miles, respective- 
ly, west from Omaha, 
and the post abandon- 
ed. The remains of the 
dead bodies of soldiers, 
buried at Kearny, were 
taken up and re-inter- 
ed in the National 
Cemetery, at Fort Mc- 
Pherson. 

Two miles above the 
fort, on the south bank, 
is Kearny City, in the 
early days more com- 
monly called " Dobey 
Town." This was once 
a great point with the 
old Overland Stage 
Company, and at that 
time contained about 
500 inhabitants, the 
greater portion of 
which left upon the 
abandonment of the 
line and the south-side 
route of travel. But 
we are told settlers are coming in, and it 
will soon regain its " old time " figures. 

Returning to Kearny Junction, 5 9-10 
miles brings us to 

Stevenson — a side-track — unimpor- 
tant. Again, 10 3-10 miles west is 

Elm Creek — a small place of several 
stores and a few dwellings. 

Soon after leaving the station, we cross 
Elm Creek, a small, deep, and quite lengthy 
stream. It was well wooded before the 




CROSSING THE SAKGREDE-CHKISTO MOUNTAINS 

Altitude, 9,339 feet. Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. 

advent of the railroad, the timber consist- 
ing almost entirely of red elm, rarely 
found elsewhere in this part of the 
country. 

From Elm Creek station it is 9 miles to 
Overtoil — This is another small sta- 
tion of a few buildings. It is situated on a 
branch of Elm Creek. 

The Platte Valley along here, and for the 
last fifty miles, is very broad; nearly all 
the best land has been taken up, or pur- 



80 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



chased, but only a small portion is under 
cultivation. 

Passing on, 4 miles brings us to 

Josselyn — a side-track station, named 
after the paymaster of the road, a much 
more important person to the employes 
than the station, as trains do not always 
stop here, but roll on five miles further to 

Plum Creek— the county seat § of 
Dawson county. It contains a population 
of about 500, has a fine, brick court-house, 
two churches, a school-house, several ho- 
tels, four stores, a bridge across the Platte, 
to the south, and a weekly newspaper— the 
Pioneer. The town was named after an 
old stage station and military camp, situ- 
ated on the south side of the river, on Plum 
Creek, a small stream which heads in very 
rugged bluffs southwest of the old station, 
and empties its waters into the Platte— 
opposite Plum Creek station on the rail- 
road. 

This old station was the nearest point on 
the " old emigrant road " to the Republi- 
can River, the heart of the great, Indian 
rendezvous, and their supposed secure 
stronghold, being but about 18 miles away. 
Around the old Plum Creek station many 
of the most fearful massacres which oc- 
curred during the earliest emigration were 
perpetrated by the Sioux, Cheyenne, and 
Arapahoe Indians. The bluffs here come 
very close to the river, affording the savages 
an excellent opportunity for surprising a 
train, and, being very abrupt and cut up 
with gulches and canons, affording them 
hiding-places,, from which they swooped 
down upon the luckless emigrant, often 
massacring the larger portion of the 
party. 

Returning to the railroad, 7 8-10 miles 
brings us to 

Coyote — an unimportant station. 

Here the bottoms are very wide, having 
increased in width for many miles. 

In early days, all along the river, for a 
distance of 50 miles, the islands and low- 
lands were covered with cottonwood tim- 
ber, but since the completion of the rail- 
road, the greater portion have been cut clown 
and removed by the settlers. Where, in 
1860, were huge cottonwoods, now are 
wheat-fields, or young cottonwoods and 
willows. We are now in a section of 
country where large quantities of hay are 
put up annually for shipment, 

Passing on 6 miles, we reach 

Cozad— About one-fourth mile be- 
fore reaching this station, on the right, we 



cross the 100th meridian, marked by a sign, 
which reads, in large letters •' 100th Me- 
ridian." 

This place was named by a gentleman 
from the East, who purchased 40,000 acres 
of land from the railroad company here, 
and laid out a town. It has not been a 
" huge success " as a speculation, so far, 
but by a thorough system of irrigation 
could be made very productive. There are 
a few gocd buildings at and near the sta- 
tion, and some herds of cattle and sheep 
range near by; in fact, this section of coun- 
try is more adapted to stock-raising than 
it is for agricultural purposes. 

The high bluffs to the south and west — 
our road here runs nearly north — looming 
up in the distance, are on the south side 
of the Platte River, 25 miles distant. 

From Cozad, it is five miles to 

Willow Island— population 100— 
named from an island in the Platte River, 
near by, the second in size in that river. 
For some distance before reaching this 
station, large herds of cattle and sheep can 
be seen, particularly on the opposite side 
of the river, where can also be seen some 
of the old adobe ranches of the days when 
the "overland stage" was the fastest 
method of crossing these plains. 

We are now beyond the agricultural sec- 
tion, and are entering the great grazing re- 
gion of the West. 

For some years after the completion of 
the road the traveler could see, near this 
place, and in fact for many miles beyond 
North Platte, some of the old log houses of 
the early settlers, with their sides pierced 
with Joop-holes and walled up with turf, 
the roofs being covered with the same ma- 
terial, which reminds one of the savage 
against whom these precautions were 
taken. In fact, from here up the river, the 
traveler will doubtless observe many of 
the rude forts along the roadside as well as 
at the stations. The deserted ranches to be 
met with along the " old emigrant road," 
on the south side of the river, are fortified 
in the same manner. The fort was gener- 
ally built of logs, covered on top and 
walled on the side in the manner described. 
They are pierced with loop-holes on all 
sides, and afforded a safe protection against 
the Indians. They generally stood about 
fifty yards from the dwelling, from which 
an underground passage led to the fort. 
When attacked, the settlers would retreat 
to their fortification where they would 
fight it out ; and until the Indians got " ed- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



37 



ucated," many a "red brother" would get 
a shot — to him unawares — which would 
send him to his " Happy Hunting-ground." 

As we pass along to the next station, 10 
3-10 miles, the passenger will note that our 
direction is nearly north, with the bottom 
lands getting narrower as we proceed. 

Warren — This is simply a side-track, 
where trains seldom stop. The grass here 
is short and thick on the upland, and 
coarse and tall on the bottoms. 

Sand-hills close in on the right, and the 
river on our left, as we proceed eight miles 
further to 

Brady Island — This station derives 
its name from an island in the Platte 
River, which is of considerable size. In 
early times many wandering bands of In- 
dians were wont to cross the river at this 
point, and for months at a time camp on 
the Island or on the river banks. 

From this station to the next, it is 9 1-10 
miles. 



McPherson— is a military station, 
five miles from the Platte River, and seven 
miles from old " Cottonwood Springs " on 
the opposite side of the river, with which 
it is connected by a bridge, a great im- 
provement on the old ford. 

The country round about is well watered, 
and some timber on the bottoms can be 
obtained for all necessary purposes. A 
large amount of fine meadow land adjoins 
the station, from which are cut thousands 
of tons of hay that are either sold to the 
Government at the fort or shipped up or 
down the road. 

Fort McPherson — is situated on the 
south side of the Platte River, near Cot- 
tonwood Springs. The post was estab- 
lished Feb. 20, 1866, by Major S. W. 
O'Brien, of ihe 7th Iowa Cavalry. It was 
originally known as "Cantonment Mc- 
Keon," and also as " Cottonwood Springs." 
At the close of (he war, when the regular 
army gradually took the place of the vol- 



Jill 




DALE CREEK BRIDGE, NEAR SHERMAN, ON THE BLACK HILLS OF WYOMING. 



38 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



unteers who had been stationed on the 
frontier during the rebellion, the names of 
many of the forts were changed, and they 
were re-named in memory of those gal- 
lant officers who gave their lives in de- 
fense of their country. Fort McPherson 
was named after Major-General James B. 
McPherson, who was killed in the battle 
before Atlanta, Georgia, July, 22d, 1864. 
Supplies are received via McPherson Sta- 
tion. Located in latitude 41 deg., longi- 
tude 100 deg. 30 min. 

The next station is 7 7-10 miles further, 
named 

Gannett — a side-track — nearly five 
miles from where the trains cross the long 
trestle bridge over the 

North Platte River — This river rises 
in the mountains of Colorado, in the North 
Park. Its course is to the northeast from 
its source for several hundred miles, when 
it bends around to the southeast. We shall 
cross it again at Fort Steele, 402 miles fur- 
ther west. The general characteristics of 
the stream are similar to tho^e of the 
South Platte. 

For 100 miles up this river the " bottom 
lands " are from 3 to 15 miles wide, very 
rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though 
perhaps requiring irrigation. Game in 
abundance is found in this valley, and 
bands of wild horses at one time were 
numerous. 

Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from 
the junction — near where the Laramie 
River unites with this stream. 

On the west bank of the river, 80 miles 
north, is Ash Hollow, rendered famous by 
General Harney, who gained a decisive 
victory over the Sioux Indians here, many 
years ago. 

About one mile beyond the bridge and 
5 8-10 miles is situated 

Xortli Platte City— the county 
seat of Lincoln county, and one of the 
best locations for a large town on the whole 
line of the Union Pacific road. Elevation, 
2,789 feet. Distance from Omaha, 291 
miles. 

Here is the end of the Eastern Division, 
and the commencement of the Mountain 
Division — For altitude of each station see 
time table at the beginning of each 
division. 

The road was finished to this place, No- 
vember, 1866. Here the company have a 
round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and 
repair shop, all of stone. In these shops 



are employed — regularly — 76 men, besides 
those engaged in the offices and yard. The 
Railroad House is the principal hotel. 

North Platte has improved very rapidly 
during the last three years, and contains 
about 2,000 population. Churches, hotels, 
county buildings, and scores of dwellings 
have been built, or are in course of erection. 
A new bridge has been completed across 
the South Platte River. Two weekly 
newspapers are published here, the Repub- 
lican and the Nebraskan. Settlers' houses, 
and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and 
horses are to be seen in every direction. 
The advantages of this place, as a stock 
range and shipping point, exceed all 
others on the line of road. 

Messrs. Keith, Barton, and Dillon, citi- 
zens of North Platte City, have a herd of 
15,000 head of cattle— on the North Platte 
above the City — and there are many other 
parties living' at or near this city, who own 
herds of from 500 to 5,000 head. In this 
country a man that only owns 500 head, is 
counted a "poor shoat " — one to be pitied. 

North Platte, in its palmiest days, 
boasted a population of over 2,000, which 
was reduced in a few months after the road 
extended, to as many hundreds. Until the 
road was finished to Julesburg, which was 
accomplished in June, 1867, all freight for 
the West was shipped from this point ; then 
the town was in the height of its pros- 
perity ; then the gamblers, the roughs and 
scallawags, who afterward rendered the 
road accursed by their presence, lived in 
clover — for there were hard-working, fool- 
ish men enough in the town to afford 
them an easy living. When the town be- 
gan to decline, these leaches followed up 
the road, cursing with their upas blight 
every camp and town, until an enraged and 
long-suffering community arose in their 
own defense, binding themselves together, 
a la vigilantes, and, for want of a legal 
tribunal, took the law into their own 
hands, and hung them to the first projec- 
tion high and strong enough to sustain 
their worthless carcasses. But many 
"moved on," and we shall hear of them 
again many times before we are through. 



Colorado was first visited by white men— Spani- 
ards— in 1540. Explored by Z. M. Pike, who gave 
his name to Pike*s Peak, in 1806; by Col. S. H. 
Long in 1820, who named Long's Peak ; by Gen. 
Fremont in 1843 ; by Gov. "William Gilpin in 1840, 
who has traversed the country more or less until 
the present time. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



39 



TIME T^-ZBLIE 



MOUNTAIN DIVISION. 

NORTH PLATTE TO LARAMIE. 



Robert Law, Division Superintendent 










WEST FROM OMAHA. 


OMAHA TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


Daily 
Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 

from 

Omaha 


STATIONS. 


Elevati'n 

....2789.. 

2882. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


6:40 pm 
7:10 


2:10 am 

2:25 

2:50 

3:10 

3:30 

3 55 

4 20 
4:47 
5:15 
5:35 
6:00 
6:28 
6:55 
7:25 
8:10 t 
8:35 
9:03 
9:30 
9.57 

10:13 

10:30 

11:00 

11:17 

11:35 

11:55 

12:15 p m 

12:37 

12:55 

1:40 + 

2:00 

2:30 

2:50 

3:20 

3:50 

4:15 

4:30 

4:45 

5:10 

5 :00 p m 


..291 

..299 


Lv..... NORTH PLATTE Ar 


2:10 am 

1:37 

1:15 
12:55 
12:35 

12:(8 a m 
11:43 
11:15 
10:48 
10:28 
10:03 

9:35 

9:10 

8:45 

8:25 + 

7:40 

7:15 

6:50 

6:25 

6:10 

5:55 

5:30 

5 15 

5:00 

4-45 

4:30 

4:15 

4:00 

3:35 + 

2:55 

2:30 

2:10 

1:45 

1:25 

1:05 
12:50 
12:35 

12:10 pm 
12:00 m 


6:10 pm 
5*30 


7:50 


..308 


*0 , Fallon , 8 


2976.. 




8:25 


..315 




3000 


4-20 


8:55 


..322 


*Alkali 


3038 . . 


3 "45 


9:40 


..332 .... 




. 3105.. 


2:50 


10:25 


..342 




.. 3190.. 


2:00 + 


11 :15 


..351 


Brule 


3266 


1:10 


12:05 am 
12 :45 


..361.. . 
..369 


*Big Spring 


... 3325.. 
3421 . . 


12:^0 p m 
11-40 


1:25 


..377 




3500.. 


11 00 


2:20 


..387 




3702 


10-05 


3:10 


..397 

..407 


*Lodge Pole 


. 3800.. 


9:20 


4:05 




4022. 


8*30 


5:30 t 


..414 


"SIDNEY... 


4073 . 


7:f0 + 
6:15 


6:15 


..423 




4200. 


7:00 


..43i 


.. *Potter ., 


4370 


5 '25 


7:45 


..442 




4580 


4-40 


8:30 


..451 




...4712.. 

4784 


3-50 


9:00 


..457... . 




3:15 


9:30 
10:30 
11:00 


..463... . 

..473 

..479 


Bushnell 

*Pine Bluffs, W. T 


... 4860.. 
.... 5026 . . 
...5149 


2; 45 
1:45 

1 :!5 


11:35 


..484 


Egbert..., 


...5272.. 
....5428.. 
....5591.. 

.. 58u0 


12:45 


12:10 pm 
12:50 


..490. ... 






..496 


*HillsdaIe 


11 :45 


1:30 


..502 




11 :10 


2:10 


..508 

..516 




. 6000.. 


10 40 


3:45 t 
4:20 


*CHEYENNE ... 


.... 6041 . . 
... 6325.. 
6724 


9:50 + 
8-30 


..522 




5-10 


. 531 . . . 


Otto. . 


7-40 


5:40 
6:30 


..536... . 

.543 

..549 


*Granite Canon 

*Buford 


....7398.. 

7780 


7:10 
6:30 


7-30 




8242 


5-50 


8 - 10 




Tie Siding 


7985 


4-55 


8*35 


..558 




7857 


4-30 


9-05 


..564 


*RedButtes. 


....7336.. 
....7163.. 
....7123.. 


4-00 


g-45 


570 .. 




3:15 
3:00 


10:15 pm 


..573 


Av *LARAMIE Lv 


t Meals 
The atte 


* Telegraph. 
ntion of passengers is 


directed to the elevation of eac 


-h station. 





Just after leaving the city for the West, 
on the south side of the road will be seen 
a Government camp, where soldiers are 
stationed to guard the bridge, the city, and 
the situation generally, when necessary. 

From North Platte our route is due 
west. It is 8 4-10 miles to 

Nichols — an unimportant side-track. 
North Platte City is I in plain sight from 
the station — as is also the North and South 
Platte Rivers— and the Valleys of the same. 



From Nichols it is 8 5-10 miles to 
O'Fallon's Bluffs — situated in 
the sand hills, where the bluffs on the 
right come close to the river. On the 
south side of the river are the famous 
O'Fallon's Bluffs, a series of sand hills in- 
terspersed with ravines and gulches, which 
come close to the river's bank, forming ab- 
rupt bluffs, which turned the emigrants 
back from the river, forcing them to cross 
these sand hills, a distance of eight miles, 



40 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



through loose yielding sand, devoid of 
vegetation. Here, as well as at all points 
where the bluffs come near the river, the 
emigrants used to suffer severely, at times, 
from the attacks of the Indians. Opposite, 
and extending above this point, is a large 
island in the river, once a noted camping 
ground of the Indians. O'Fallon's Blufls 
are the first of a series of sand hills, which 
extend north and south for several hun- 
dred miles. At this point, the valley is 
much narrower than that through which 
we have passed. Here we first enter the 
" alkali belt," which extends from this 
point to Julesburg— about 70 miles. The 
soil and water are strongly impregnated 
with alkaline substances. 

The country on both sides of the river is 
occupied exclusively for grazing purposes. 
At certain seasons of the year, passengers 
should keep their "eye peeled " for buffa- 
lo, as we are now getting into the buffalo 
range. During the winter of 1873-4 im- 
mense numbers roamed over this country, 
along the road for 100 miles westward, but 
few, if any, have been seen since that time. 

Passing along up the narrow bottom, with 
the bluffs close on our right, 7 3-10 miles 
brings us to a side-track, called 

l>exter — Trains seldom stop here, and 
7 2-10 miles further we reach 

Alkali — on an alkaline bottom. This 
station is directly opposite the old 
stage station of that name on the south side 
of the river. After leaving the station the 
road passes through the sand-bluffs, which 
here run close to the river's bank. A 
series of cuts and fills, extending for sev- 
eral miles, brings us to the bottom land 
again. From Alkali, it is 9 6-10 miles to 

JSosco — another side-track station. 
Passing along over a narrow bottom, 
with sand bluff cuttings, at intervals, 9 
6-10 miles, we come to 

Ogaiaila — the county seat of Keith 
county. 

The settlers here are all more or less en- 
gaged in stock-raisiDg. It is the river- 
crossing for large droves of cattle en route 
for the Indian reservation, Fort Laramie 
and the Black Hills country, to the north- 
ward. Near this station, several years ago, 
at a point where the road makes a short 
curve and crosses the mouth of a ravine. 



Un the plains, bacon is called "sow-belly, 11 In- 
dian tents, '•'wigwams, 11 lodges, "tepees," "wick- 
eeups. 11 

Teamsters on the plains call a meal a "grub- 
pile. 11 



the Indians attempted to wreck a passen- 
ger train, by suddenly massing their ponies 
on the track ahead of the locomotive. The 
result was, some score or more of the ponies 
were killed, without damaging the train, 
while the men used their "pistols" and 
guns pretty freely on the Indians, who 
were apparently greatly surprised, and who 
now call the locomotive " Smoke wagon 
— big chief ! Ugh ! ! no good ! " 

Another 9 6-10 miles and we reach 

Brule — It is near the old California 
Crossing, where the emigrants crossed 
when striking for the North Platte and 
Fort Laramie, to take the South Pass 
route. 

On the south side of the river, opposite 
in plain view, istheoldranche and trading 
post of the noted Indian trader and Peace 
Commissioner — Beauve — now deserted. 

Passing aloug over cuts and fills, 9 7-10 
miles, we reach 

Big Springs — The station derives 
its name from a large spring — the first 
lound on the road — which makes out of 
the bluffs, opposite the station, on the 
right hand side of the road, and in plain 
view from the cars. The water is excel- 
lent, and will be found the best along this 
road. 

It was at this station where the ' ! Big 
Spring's robbery" took place, Sept. 18th 
1877. A party of twelve masked men took 
possession of the station, bound and gagged 
the men, cut the telegraph wires, and 
when the western train arrived, took pos- 
session of it with guns and revolvers, in 
the name of " hands up." The robbers se- 
cured $65,000 from the express car, $1,300 
and four gold watches from passengers, 
then mounted their horses, that had been 
hitched near by, and allowed the train to 
proceed. No person was killed or injured, 
but a^ experienced much difficulty for days, 
in getting their hair to lay down; and, it is 
said, among the railroad men, that even 
now a sudden shout " hands up," in the 
hearing of that express messenger, will 
send his hat up three feet from his head, 
and his face and head will resemble the 
"All Seeing Eye " in the Mormon sign of 
" Holiness to the Lord," on another page. 
Immediately after the robbery, a reward of 



Ox drivers on the plains are called "bull-whack- 
ers; 11 mule drivers, "mule bkinners," 

All persons, in the Territories, of mixed blood, 
are called "Greasers; 11 "Peons" are Mexican 

slaves. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




$10,000 was offered for the arrest of the 
perpetrators, and three have been caught 
<md have paid the penalty of the crime with 
their lives. About one-half of the money 
has been recovered. 

After leaving this station, we pass by a 
series of cuts and fills, and another range 
of bluffs, cut up by narrow ravines and 
gorges. At points, the roads run so near 
the river bank, that the water seems to be 
right "under the cars. But we emerge 
again, after 7 8-10 miles, and come to 

Sarton — a small signal station of very 
little importance. Passing on a short dis- 
tance we can see the old town of Julesburg, 
on the south side of the river. The town 
was named after Jules Burg, who was 
brutally assassinated, as will be related in 
Annex No. 10. 

From Barton, it is 8 7-10 miles to the 
station of 

Julesbnrg — Elevation 3,394 feet ; dis- 
tance from Omaha, 377 miles. Until 1868, 
this was an important military, freight 
and passenger station, since when it de- 
clined to a simple way station. 

In 1873-4, a railroad bed was graded up 
the north side of the Platte, in the interest 
of the Union Pacific Co., but for some 
reason the ties and iron have never been 
laid, and now that the Union is enabled to 
reach the Colorado business by the new 
Colorado Central, via Hazard, it is hardly 
likely that this line will ever be completed. 
The Union Pacific was completed to this 
place the last of June, 1867, and all Govern- 
ment freight for the season was shipped to 
this point, to be re-shipped on wagons for 
its destination to the north and west. 

At that time Julesburg had a population 
of 4,000 ; now the town is almost deserted. 
During the " lively times," Julesburg was 
the roughest of all towns along the Union 
Pacific line. The roughs congregated 
there, and a day seldom passed but what 
they "had a man for breakfast." Gam- 
bling and dance houses constituted a good 
portion of the town ; and it is said that 
morality and honesty clasped hands and 
departed from the place. We have not 
learned whether they have returned ; and 
really we have our doubts about their ever 
having been there. 

Before the railroad, the last of Utah 
and California emigration that came 
up the Platte crossed "opposite the station, 
and followed up the valley of Lodge Pole 
Creek to the Cheyenne Pass. 

From Julesburg to Denver, Colorado, the 



To be well armed and. ready for a fight is t- to be 
heeled." 

The Indians on the plains call the locomotives 
and cars "bad medicine wagons." 



42 



CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



distance is 200 miles, following the course 
of the Platte River. During the winter of 
'65 and '6Q, most of the wood used at Jules- 
burg and Fort Sedgwick, was hauled on 
wagons from Denver, at an expense of 
from $60 to $75 per cord, for transportation 
alone, and was sold to Government, by 
contract, at $105 per cord. The wood cost 
in Denver about $20. Besides this, the 
contractors were allowed by Government 
to put in what hard wood they could get 
at double the price, or $210 per cord, which 
by many was thought to be a " pretty soft 
snap." The "hard wood" was obtained 
in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, fifty 
miles south of Denver City, and cost no 
more for transportation than did the pine. 
John. Hughes, of Denver, was the con- 
tractor — a more successful and enterprising 
one it would be hard to find in Colorado 
or elsewhere. 

About the only business now done at 
Julesburg, is connected with stock-raising. 
The shipments of cattle are very heavy du- 
ring the shipping season ; sometimes 100 
cars a week. 

Fort Sedgwick — was established May 
19, 1864, by the Third United States Vol- 
unteers, and named after Major-General 
John Sedgwick, Colonel Fourth Cavalry, 
U. S. A., who was killed in battle at Spott- 
sylvania Court House, Virginia, May 9th, 
1864. It is located in the northeast corner 
of Colorado Territory, on the south side of 
the South Platte River, four miles distant, 
on the old emigrant and stage road to Col- 
orado, in plain view from the cars. Lati- 
tude 31 cleg., longitude 102 deg. 30 min. — 
now abandoned. 

The Platte River, west of North 
Platte city, is called the South Fork of the 
Platte. We have ascended it, almost on 
its banks, over 350 miles, and shall now 
leave it and turn to the right, the northwest, 
and follow up the narrow valley of Lodge 
Pole Creek, to Egbert, about 100 miles dis- 
tant. The South Fork of the Platte rises in 
the Middle Park of the Rocky Mountains 
in Colorado. The valley extends from 
Julesburg up the river about 275 miles, to 
where the river emerges from the moun- 
tains. The average width of the valley is 
about three miles,"the soil of which affords 
excellent grazing. 
From Julesburg it is 10 miles to 
Claappell — a small side-track where 
passenger trains never stop, and 9 1-10 
miles further to 



Lodge Pole— another side-track. 
This valley is narrow, but with the bluffs, 
and a great open prairie country to the 
northeastward, extending to the North 
Platte River, a distance of 30 miles, affords 
the finest of grazing range, and large herds 
of cattle, and numerous bands of antelope 
can be seen while passing on up the 
valley. Ten miles more and we reach 

Colton — which is another new station, 
tenmilesfromLodgePole.lt was named in 
honor of Francis Colton, Esq., a former 
general passenger agent of the road, now 
President of the Farmers and Mechanics' 
Bank of Galesburg, 111. 
From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to 
Sidney — named after the president of 
the road. This is a regular eating-station, 
where trains stop 30 minutes, those from 
the East, for breakfast, from the West for 
supper. Meals- homoeopathic. 

Sidney is the county seat of Cheyenne 
county, Nebraska, and within the last few 
years has improved in buildings, and in- 
creased in population, until it now con- 
tains about 1,500 people. The "Lock- 
wood '" house the largest hotel, is situated 
a little to the west of the station from which 
start the stages for the Black Hills gold 
mines. 

The principal outfitting store is owned 
by, Mr. Chas. Moore, the pioneer lanch- 
man of the Old South Platte route — as well 
as of Sidney — but "Charley" talks poor. 
Besides his $30,000 worth of goods, and 
other property, he only has about 8,000 
head of cattle and 3,000 sheep, — and by 
the way, Sidney is not much behind in the 
number of prosperous stock-men. There are 
scores of her citizens who own 500 head, 
many 5,000, several 15,000. With the great 
range belonging to the late "Cattle King," 
1 1 iff, close on the south, on which graze 
48,000 head. 

The II iff Ranche is a huge one. It is 
about 150 miles in length, with an average 
width of 25 miles, commencing near 
Julesburg, and extending west along tue 
PJatte River to Fremont's Orchard, 60 
miles northeast of Denver. 

The railroad company have a round- 
house of ten stalls, and a machine shop lo- 
cated here, besides an extensive freight 
ware-house, and depot building. 

The Black Hills business is one of great 
importance, a stage line daily taking pas- 
sengers through to Deadwood, 267 miles, 
for $50 in winter and less in the summer. 
Freight in large quantities is shipped from 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



43 



here, on wagons. It is claimed that this 
route is the shortest to the " Hills." The 
new bridge over the North Platte, is one 
great feature of the route. 

For fare, see Annex No. 50. 

There is one newspaper published here, 
the Telegraph, weekly, by J. B. Gossage & 
Co., who also have recently established a 
weekly at Rapid City, in the Black Hills, 
called the Black Hills Journal. 

The Government has established a mili- 
tary post at this station, and erected exten- 
sive barracks and warehouses. The post 
is on the south side of the track, a little to 
the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" 
at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently 
deceased, was an old pioneer, and the hero 
of the " Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, 
he made the most remarkable ride on 
record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage 
station on the south side of the Platte, when 
a very important Government despatch ar- 



rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his 
pony, he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- 
tant, where, on arriving, he met an impor- 
tant despatch from the Pacific; resting 
only seven minutes, and, without eating, re- 
turned to Midway, making the "round 
trip » — 280 miles — in fourteen hours and 
forty-six minutes. The despatch reached 
Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight 
days, nine hours and forty minutes. 

From (Sidney it is 9 miles to 

Srownsoil — Passenger trains do not 
stop. The station was named after Col. 
Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific 
from the first, and a long time their gen- 
eral freight agent. The valley along here 
is very narrow, with high rocky bluffs on 
each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to 

Potter — Large quantities of wood and 
ties are usually stored here, which are ob- 
tained about 20 miles north of this point, 
on Lawrence Fork and Spring Canyon, 
tributaries of the North Platte River. Pot- 
ter, although not a large place, is situated 




FINGER ROCK. WEBER CANYON. UTAH- 



44 



CROFUTT S XEW OVEELAXD TOURIST 



near a very large city, called 

Prairie Dog City— one of the larg- 
est cities on the whole line of the road. 
At this point, and for several miles up 
and down the valley, the dwellings of the 
prairie dogs frequently occur, but three 
miles west of the station they are found in 
large numbers, and there the great prairie 
dog city is situated. It occupies several 
hundred acres on each side of the road, 
where these sagacious little animals have 
taken land and established their dwellings 
without buying lots of the company. (We 
do not know whether Mr. Land-Commis- 
sioner, intends to eject them or not,) Their 
dwellings consist of a little mound, with a 
hole in the top, from a foot to a toot and a 
half high, raised by the dirt excavated from 
their burrows. On the approach of a 
train, these animals can be seen scamper- 
ing for their houses; arrived there, they 
squat on their hams or stand on their hind 
feet, barking at the train as it passes. 
Should any one venture too near, down they 
go into their holes, and the city is silent as 
the city of the dead. 

It is said that the opening in the top 
leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- 
ing with the next dwelling, and so on 
through the settlement; but this is a mis- 
take, as in most cases a few buckets of 
water will drown out any one ot them. 
The animal is of a sandy-brown color, and 
about the size ot a large gray squirrel. In 
their nest, living with the dog, may be found 
the owl and rattlesnake, though whether 
they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. 
The prairie dog lives on grasses and ro ;ts, 
and is generally fat; and by many, espe- 
cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, 
the meat being sweet and tender, but rather 
greasy, unless thoroughly par- boiled. 
Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they 
may often be seen sneaking and crawling 
near a town, where they may, by chance, 
pick up an unwary straggler. But the 
dogs are not easily caught, for some one is 
always looking out for" danger, and on the 
first intimation of trouble, the alarm is 
given, and away they all scamper for their 
holes. 

CouRT-HorsE Rock — About 40 miles 
due north from this station is the noted 
Court-House Rock, on the North Platte 
River. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up 
and down that stream. It has the appear- 
ance of a tremendous capitol building, 
seated on the apex of a pyramid. From 
the base of the spur of the bluffs on which 



the white Court-House Rock is seated, to 
the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000 
feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 
200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- 
member the place and the many names, 
carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft 
sand-stone of which it is composed. 

Chimney Rock — is about 25 miles up 
the river from Court-House Rock. It is 
about 500 feet high and has the appear- 
ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- 
stone column, rising directly from the 
plain. The elements have worn away the 
bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. 

The next station is nine miles distant, 
called 

Bennett — named, possibly, after 
James Gordon Bennett, of the New Turk 
Herald, but more likely after the Supt. of 
the Palace Car Co., on the Union Pacific 
road ; but neither are greatly honored, as 
passenger trains never stop, but roll on 9 
2-10 miles further where they do stop, at 

Antelope — It is situated at the lower 
end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point 
is near the station, on the left. 

This station is in the center of what the 
plains-men call " the best grass country in 
the world," as well as one of the best points 
for antelope on the route. For article on 
stock-raising, see Annex Xo. 29. 

Six miles further and we come to 

Adams — an unimportant side-track, 
from which it is 5 9-10 miles to 

linshnell — This is another unimpor- 
tant side-track, near the boundary line be- 
tween Nebraska and Wyoming Territory. 
Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on 
ten miles further to 

Pine It 1 nils — where cattle-shipping 
is the principal business transacted at the 
station. 

During the building of the road, this 
place was known as " Rock Ranche " — and 
a tough ranche it was. Considerable pitch 
pine wood was cut for the railroad in the 
bluffs, a few miles to the southward, from 
which the station derives its name. The 
bluffs are on the left hand side of the road, 
and at this point are quite high and rocky, 
extending very near the track. 

Fort Morgan — was established in May, 
1865, abandoned in May. 1868, and its gar- 
rison transferred to Laramie. It is 
about 60 miles north of this station, on the 
North Platte River, at the western base of 
what is known as Scott's Bluffs. Latitude 
40 deg. 30 min. ; longitude 27 deg. 

Our course from this station is more to 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



45 



for 5 6- 



the westward 
10 miles to 

Tracy — a small 
side-track, where pas- 
senger trains seldom 
stop. It is 5 6-10 miles 
further to 

Egber t— anoth- 
er unimportant side- 
track. 

Near this point we 
leave Lodge Pole 
Creek, from which- 
to the source of the 
stream in the Black 
Hills, about 40 miles 
away, the valley pre- 
sents the same general 
appearance until it 
reaches the base of 
the mountains. Bears, 
deer and wolves 
abound in the country 
around the source of 
the stream, and herds 
of antelope are scatter 
ed over the valley. At 
one time beavers were 
plenty in the creek, and 
a few of these interest 
ing animals are still to 
be found in the lower waters of the stream, 
near to its junction with the Platte. This 
valley was once a favorite hunting-ground 
of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- 
sisted the attempts of the Government to re- 
move them to a reservation to the northward. 

Passing on up a dry ravine 3-10 miles, 
we come to 

Barns — another small side-track — and 
nothing else— which is 5 7-10 miles from 

Hillsdale — When the road was being 
constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a 
large amount of freight was re-shipped 
from here on wagons. Then, it was a busy 
place, now, only a water-tank and side- 
track. The station was named after a Mr. 
Hill, one of the engineering party who was 
killed near this place by the Indians while 
he was engaged in locating the present 
site of the road. 

About 50 miles to the south is "Fre- 
mont's Orchard," on the South Platte 
River, about 60 miles below Denver City, 
Colorado, and in that State. It was 
named after Col. Fremont, who discovered 
the point in his exploring expedition. It 
consists of a large grove of cottonwood 
trees, mostly on the south side of the river. 




MONUMENT ROCK, BLACK HILLS, U.P.R.R. 



The river here makes an abrupt bend to 
the north, then another to the south, cut- 
ting its way through a high range of sand- 
hills—the third range from the Missouri 
River. Where the river forces its way 
through the bluffs, they are very high and 
abrupt on the south side. The two" bends 
leave a long promontory of sand hills, the 
end of which is washed by the waters. At 
a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on 
the bottom land reminds one of an old 
orchard, such as is often seen in the East- 
ern States. 

Near Fremont's Orchard is located the 
Green Colony, at Green City, which num- 
bers about 200. 

Passing on from Hillsdale up a ravine, 
which gradually becomes narrower as we 
ascend'with bluffs on either hand, 6 2-10 
miles, we come to 

Atkins— a side-track. Passing on, our 
train gradually rises on to the table-land, 
and then, if the day be a fair one, die trav- 
eler can catch the first glimpse of the Rocky 
Mountains, directly ahead. On the right 
he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills 
of Wyoming, stretching their cold, dark 
ruggedness far away to the right, as far as 



46 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVEELAND TOUEIST 



the eye can see ; but the bold, black line — 
the dark shadow on the horizon, which will 
soon take tangible shape and reality, but 
which now seems to bar our way as with a 
gloomy impenetrable barrier, is the "Great 
Rocky Mountain Chain," the back-bone of 
the American continent, though bearing 
different names in the Southern hemi- 
sphere. The highest peak which can be 
seen rising far above that dark line, its white 
sides gleaming above the general darkness, 
is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks of 
the continent. Away to the left rises 
Pike's Peak, its towering crest robed in 
snow. It is one of those mountains which 
rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- 
orado's noted mountains, and on a fair day 
is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles 
distant. 
From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to 
Archer — situated on the high table- 
land, where the cars seldom stop — is eleven 
miles from Hillsdale ; and a little farther 
on, the cars pass through the -first snow- 
shed on the Union Pacific road, emerging 
with Crow Creek Valley on the left. 

After passing through a series of cuts and 
fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- 
road can be seen on the left side, where it 
passes over the bluffs to the southeast. 
Directly ahead can be seen, for several 
miles, the far-famed " Magic City of the 
Plains," 8 4-10 miles from the last sta- 
tion — 

Cheyenne— which is the capital of 
Wyoming, the largest town between 
Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains 
from the East and West stop here 30 min- 
utes, for dinner — and no better meals can 
be had on the road than at the Railroad 
House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles ; 
from Ogden 516 miles— just half the length 
of the Union Pacific road; distance to 
Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. 

Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie 
county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- 
tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad 
plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, 
winding around two sides of the town. 
The land rises slightly to the westward. To 
the east it is apparently level, though our 
table of elevations shows to the contrary. 
The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- 
tion, with an average loam deposit. The 
sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with 
marine fossils in large quantities. The 
streets of the town are broad and laid out 
at right angles with the railroad. 
Schools and churches are as numerous 



as required, and society is more orderly 
and well regulated than in many western 
places of ( even older establishment. The 
church edifices are the Presbyterian, Con- 
gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- 
lic, and several of other denominations. 
The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, 
a $70,000 hotel — the Inter-Ocean — many 
new blocks of buildings, among which 
are, an opera house, banks, and stores of 
all kinds, besides many fine private res- 
idences, also a grand lake or reservoir for 
supplying the city with pure water, con- 
ducted by canal from Crow Creek, from 
whence smaller branches run along the 
sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, 
trees and shrubbery, which will soon make 
the city a place of surpassing beauty. It 
also boasts of a race-course and some good 
" steppers." It has three daily newspapers, 
the Leader, the Gazette and the titm, all of 
which issue weeklies. 

Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- 
tories, among which the item of saddles 
is an important one, as the saddle of 
the plains and most Spanish countries, 
is a different article altogether from the 
Eastern "hogskin." When seated in 
his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue 
nor injury to his animal. They are made 
for use — to save the animal's strength, as 
well as to give ease and security of seat to 
the rider. The best now in use is made 
with what is known as the "California 
tree." The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & 
Co., make these saddles a specialty, and fill 
orders from all over the western portion of 
the United States, Mexico and South 
America. 

The railroad company's buildings are of 
stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 
miles west. They consist of a round-house 
of 20 stalls, and machine and repair shop, 
in which are employed 50 men. The 
freight office and depot buildings are of 
wood. The freight office was opened for 
business during the first part of November, 
1867, at which time the road was completed 
to this station. 

No land is cultivated around Cheyenne, 
except a few small gardens around Crow 
Creek. The soil is good, and the hardiest 
kinds of vegetables and grains could be 
raised successfully with irrigation. Graz- 
ing is the main feature of the country. 

The Railroad House, before which all 
passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on 
the road, and has ample accommodations 
for 60 guests. The dining-room, which 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



47 



everybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for 
its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with 
the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, 
elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other 
game, all preserved and looking as natural 
as life; here, too, is a great variety of 
other interesting specimens. 

The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, 
Delmonico, on the European plan, Dyer's, 
Simmon's, and Metropolitan. 

Early Times — On the fourth day of 
July, 1867, there was one house in Cheyenne 
— no more. The first Mayor of Cheyenne 
was H. M. Hook, an old. pioneer, elected 
August 10, 1867, who was afterwards 
drowned in Green River, while prospecting 
for new silver mines. 

In the spring of 1869, there were 6,000 
inhabitants in the place and about the vi- 
cinity; but as the road extended westward, 
the floating, tide-serving portion followed 
the road, leaving the more permanent set- 
tlers, who have put up substantial build- 
ings of brick and stone, which mark a 
thriving and steadily growing city. 

Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of 
the "roughs" and gambling hells, dance- 
houses, and wild orgies ; murders by night 
and day were rather 
the rule instead ot tne 
exception. This lasted 
until the business men 
and quiet citizens, tired 
of such doings, and 
suddenly an impromp- 
tu vigilance commit- 
tee appeared on the 
scene, and several of 
the most desperate 
characters were found 
swinging from the 
end of a rope, from 
some convenient eleva- 
tion. Others, taking 
the hint, which in- 
dicated they would 
take a rope unless they 
mended their ways, 
quietly left the city. 
At present Cheyenne 
is orderly and well- 
governed. 

In the fall of 1869, 
Cheyenne suffered se- 
verely by a large con- 
flagration, which de- 
stroyed a considerable, 
portion of the busi- 
ness part of the town, 



involving a loss of half-a-rnillion dollars. 
The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, 
rebuilt, in many instances, with more 
durable material than before. 

GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. 

Fort D. A. Russell — This post was es- 
tablished July 31, 1837, by General Auger, 
and intended to accommodate sixteen com- 
panies. It is three miles from Cheyenne, 
on Crow Creek, which washes two sides 
of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min. ; 
longitude 10- deg 45 min. It is connected by 
side-track with the Union Pacific railroad 
at Cheyenne. The quarter-master's depart- 
ment — 12 store-houses — is located between 
the fort and the town, at " Camp Carling." 
Several million pounds of Government 
stores are gathered here, from which the 
forts to the northwest draw their supplies. 
The reservation on which the fort is situ- 
ated was declared by the President, June 
28th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. 

Fort Laramie— This fort was estab- 
lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. 
Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, 
once a trading post of the Northwestern 
Fur Company, was purchased by the Gov- 
ernment, through Brice Husband, the coni- 




DOWN THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY 



48 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



pany's agent, for the site of a military post. 
It was at one time the winter quarters of 
many trappers and hunters. It is also 
noted as being the place where several 
treaties have been made between the sava- 
ges and whites — many of the former living 
around the fort, fed by Government, 
and stealing its stock in return. The res- 
ervation, declared by the President on the 
28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square 
miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- 
enne — the nearest railroad station — on the 
left bank of the Laramie, about two miles 
from its junction with the North Platte, 
and on the Overland road to Oregon and 
California. Latitude 42 deg. 12 min. 38 
sec. ; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. 

FortFetterman — This post was named 
in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. "VVm J 
Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantry, killed 
at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decern 
ber 21st, 1866 ; established July 19th, 1864, 
by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, 
under command of Brevet Colonel William 
McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry It is 
situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, 
on the south side of the North Platte River, 
135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of 
Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly 
from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 
min. 08 sec, longitude 105 deg. 27 min. 03 
sec. The reservation of sixty square miles 
was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne 
is the nearest railroad station. The regu- 
lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort 
is by Government mail ambulance and 
Black Hills stages. 

Fort Casper — was situated on the 
North Platte River, at what was known as 
" Old Platte Bridge," on the Overland road 
to California and Oregon, 55 miles north of 
Fort Fetterman ; was built during the late 
war; re-built bv the 18th Infantry in 1866, 
and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mu- 
nitions of war, etc., were transferred to 
Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the 
Platte at this place cost $65,000 — a wooden 
structure, which was destroyed by the In- 
dians shortly after the abandonment of the 
post. 

Fort Reno — was established during the 
war by General E. P Connor, for the pro- 
tection of the Powder River country It 
was situated on the Powder River, 225 
miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort 
Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil 
Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by the 
18th Infantry, and abandoned in Julv, 
1868. 



Fort Phil. Kearny — was established 
July, 1866, by four companies of the 18th 
Infantry, under command of Colonel H. 
B. Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post 
was situated 290 miles north of Chey- 
enne, in the very heart of the hunt- 
ing grounds of the northern Indians, and 
hence the trouble the troops had with 
the Indians in establishing it. Near this 
post is where the great massacre took 
place in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 
1868. 

Fort C. F Smith — was established in 
1866, by Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel N C 
Kinney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two 
companies of that regiment. It was at the 
foot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big 
Horn River, 90 miles from Fort Phil. 
Kearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was 
abandoned in July, 1868 

Here the thoughtful will note, that the 
Government established four forts in this 
northern Powder River country, for the 
protection of the white man as against the 
Indian To the occupancy of the country 
the Indians protested, and the Government 
acceeded, and made a treaty yielding up 
possession of the whole country north of 
the North Platte River— the Black Hills 
included — and abandoned the posts and the 
country to the Indians. When gold was 
discovered in this — acknowledged — Indian 
country, and the white man commenced to 
invade it — in search of gold — the Govern- 
ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, 
and to keep faith with the Indians and 
Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against 
this invasion, and sent soldiers to arrest 
all parties in the "Hills," and prevent 
others from going to them. Finally, the 
Government " winked " at emigration 
which it could not, or would not prevent. 
What see we now? The white man has 
taken the Indian's country, that our Gov- 
ernment has acknowledged belonged to the 
latter, has driven the Indians out, beggars 
as they are, with only the bread that the 
Government chooses to toss to them. We 
are no *' Indian lover," but, if the Govern- 
ment had a right to build these posts, they 
should never have abandoned them ; having 
abandoned them, and treated with the 
Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted 
" civilization," when, though the lands do 
contain gold, we take them without a 
" thank you," as the elephant would crush 
a toad, Does might make right? 

Black Hills Gold Mines— For many 
years vague reports have been in circula- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




tion — see our Guide for 
1869— of rich gold deposits 
in the Black Hills and 
Big Horn country, but, 
until Gen. Custer, with a 
military expedition, pene- 
trated to, and explored the 
region about Harney's Peak 
in 1874, and reported gold 
abundant, the soil rich, 
the country well timbered, 
and most desirable, nothing 
definite was known. In 
1875 the gold-seekers began 
their travels to the " Hills," 
in 1876 the numbers were 
greatly increased, but in 
1877 the great rush was 
at its height. These peo- 
ple have laid out cities, 
towns, and villages; en- 
gaged in mining, merchan- 
dising, farming, and other 
occupations. The principal 
wealth of the region is in 
the quartz rock, which re- 
quires capital to work to 
advantage. Some of these 
quartz mines are authori- 
tatively reported to be ex- 
ceedingly rich, and at the 
time we write — March 6, 
1879 — there are 942 stamps 
thundering away, night and 
day reducing the ores, and 
yielding rich returns, 

which we have the best 
authority for stating, 
amounted to over $3,000,000 
for 1878. The principal city 
in the "Hills," is called 
Dead wood, for which place 
stages leave Cheyenne daily. 

For route and fare, see 
Annex No. 50. 

These Hills lie between 
the 43rd and 45th degrees 
of latitude, and the 103d and 
105th parallels of longitude ; are about 100 
miles long and 60 miles wide. 

We are pleased to refer our readers in 
search of further and full information on 
the Black Hills, Powder River and Big 
Horn country, to Annex No. 9. 

Cheyenne up to this time has been the 
principal outfitting point for parties des- 
tined for the Black Hiljs. The amount of 
freight shipped from here since the emi- 
gration commenced, has been enormous. 
4 



WASH-A-KIE— PEACE CHIEF OF THE SHOSHONE INDIANS. 



The road being a good one, with good 
stations, water, grass, etc., along the whole 
route, it has become the principal one 
traveled, particularly by small or private 
parties. The distance is 266 miles. 

As for railroads, Cheyenne has great ex- 
pectations. She already has two roads to 
Colorado, and now is agitating a line to the 
Black Hills, via Fort Laramie, and to 
Montana. But as these roads are not yet 
so that we can ride on them we will pat_ 



50 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



ronize the Southern route and take a run 
into the 

State of Colorado, 

the youngest, the fairest, and the " Cen- 
tennial State" of the United States; ad- 
mitted to the Union, .July 1st, 1876. 
The State has an area of 86,029 square 
miles, and a population of 150,000. 

It is not our purpose to enter into a very 
minute description of this remarkable 
country. Volumes would not suffice to 
do justice to her vast resources ; her mines 
of gold, silver, iron, coal, and copper ; her 
rich and fertile valleys; her broad plains, 
on which roam • millions of cattle, sheep, 
and horses ; her vast agricultural resources ; 
her dense forests and lofty mountains ; her 
genial climate and whole-souled people, 
cannot be described in one small volume 
with any degree of accuracy or justice; in 
fact, they cannot be described at all, they 
must be seen to be appreciated, and the 
reader of any work treating on Colorado 
must live among her hardy, hospitable 
people before a correct understanding of 
their real character can be obtained. 

The climate is dry and very healthy, the 
State being unsurpassed in thu respect. 
Diseases common to the older States are 
unknown here. Pulmonary complaints 
are either eradicated from the system of 
invalids who resort to this country, or the 
disease becomes so modified that the suf- 
ferer enjoys a marked improvement in his 
condition. Within the past few years Col- 
orado has become noted as a resort for in- 
valids ; and we hear of some remarkable 
cures, resulting wholly from a change of 
climate. 

The report of the Agricultural Society of 
Colorado shows that stock-raising is carried 
on to a very great extent, and with very 
flattering results. 

Oats, barley and corn give handsome 
returns. Wheat is said to yield from 40 to 
50 bushels to the acre. 

No State in the Union, California ex- 
cepted, can excel Colorado in the produc- 
tion of vegetables. In some portions of 
the Territory, owing to the dryness of the 
black loam, irrigation is necessary to 
secure good crops, for which purpose 
canals and ditches have been dug from the 
neighboring streams, which afford all the 
water required, and also ample water- 
power for mills of various kinds. 

Colorado is rich in the precious metals, 
gold and silver being found in different 



parts of the Territory. " Pike's Peak " be- 
came famous in 1858-9, though it is said that 
gold was discovered in the Territory in 
1849. The placer mines were never very 
extensive, at least those which have been 
discovered were not lasting ones. It ap- 
pears that the chief wealth of the mines 
lies in the gold and silver-bearing quartz 
lodes. In many of the mines, the ore is 
very refractory, and large fortunes have 
been expended to find some way to work 
the ores in such a manner as will secure a 
profit. Many plans of de-sulphurizing have 
been tried without any marked success. 
About the only works that have proved a 
success are those of Prof. Hill's at Black 
Hawk, and Denver; these works are the 
largest and most successful in America. 

Along the base of the mountains, for 
many miles north and south of Denver, ex- 
tensive coal mines have been discovered at 
various points. Good authorities estimate 
the extent of the coal fields at 5,000 square 
miles,. To the north of the city several 
companies have opened mines, which are 
yielding — besides enough to supply home 
consumption and the various railroad com- 
panies — immense quantities for shipment 
to the North, East and South. 

This coal is bituminous, and is harder, 
brighter, less dirty and odorous, burns with 
a purer flame, and leaves less residue than 
the coal from Illinois. 

Large quantities of iron ore, of good 
quality, are found in connection with the 
coal deposits, and will eventually consti- 
tute a great source of wealth to the coun- 
try. Manufacturers of machinery and all 
kinds of iron implements would find in 
Colorado an almost unlimited market, and 
would be able, while under selling Eastern 
dealers, to reap a rich reward for their 
outlay. 

The following are among the minerals 
and precious stones found in Colorado: 
Moss agates, chiefly in Middle Park ; am- 
ethyst, at Nevada, Mill City, and on Soda 
Creek ; chalcedony, in South Park ; feld- 
spar, near Idaho and on Elk Creek ; gar- 
net, in South Park and about Brecken- 
ridge; jasper, in South and Middle Parks; 
mica, near Georgetown and Genesee 
Ranche; opal, near Idaho and in South 
Park ; onyx, near Willow Creek, in Mid- 
dle Park ; quartz crystals, at many points ; 
satin spar, near Mount Vernon; silicified 
wood, in Middle and South Parks, on 
Cherry Creek, the Platte, and Kiowa. 

Many of the grandest mountains are 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



51 



found in Colorado. They raise their snow- 
clad peaks far above their compeers, ris- 
ing proudly and defiantly into the clear 
blue sky ; their gray sides and white crests 
being visible through this clear atmosphere 
for many, many miles. 

In the pure air of this country, objects 
like these are visible for a great distance, 
so great indeed, that were it named, those 
who have never been in these regions, we 
fear, would doubt the statement. 

The altitude of the principal mountains, 
according to Prof. Whitney, are: Mt. Lin- 
coln, 16,190 feet; Pike's Peak, 14,336; 
Gray's Peak, 14,251; Sopri's Peak, 14,200; 
Mt. Cameron, 14,000; Mt. Guizot, 13,223 
feet; Vealie's Peak, 13,456 feet; Parry's 
Peak, 13,214 feet; Argentine Pass, 13,000 
feet; Laguna Alta, 12,000 feet ; Mt. Flora, 
12,878 feet; Snowy Range, 11,700 feet; 
Boulder Pass, 11,700 feet; Georgia Pass, 
11,487 feet; Berthoud's Pass, 11,371 feet; 
Note Pass, 11,200 feet; Long's Peak, 
14,271 feet. There are other peaks, less 
high, but none the less grand and 
majestic. The Alps — storied monu- 
ments of poetical, legendary fame — cannot 
compare with these mountains in scenes of 
sublime beauty and awtul grandeur. 
Here, all of the vast scene is before you, 
the pure air bringing the distant moun- 
tains within your vision, as though anxious 
that the whole grand beauty of the scene 
should be visible at one and the same time. 
The mind drinks in the inspiration of 
the glorious vision at one draught, and 
filled with awe, wonder and admiration, 
the bounding heart almost stands still, 
while the eager eyes gaze on the grandest 
panorama in nature. From the top of 
Grey's Peaks, either of them, a morning 
scene of glorious beauty is unfolded to 
the visitor, such as one rarely sees in any 
clime; for nature, in her wildest moods, 
has never excelled her handiwork in the 
panoramic view spread out in every di- 
rection. European travelers tell us that 
nowhere within the range of European 
travel can such scenes be found — scenes 
so full of beauty, sublimity and inspira- 
tion. 

Nowhere on the old continent do we as- 
cend so high ; from no point is the view so 
wide and comprehensive From Alpine 
summits, the tourist's gaze extends over 
one petty province to rest upon another. 
Here, the eye fails to reach the extent of 
even one portion of our country, and the 
far distant horizon* closes in the scene by 



dropping an airy curtain, whose fleecy 
fringes rest on mountain peaks and vast 
plains in far distant portions of the same 
fair land. 

The Summit of the Rocky Mountains 
— from one side cf which the waters of 
numerous little springs ripple softly away, 
as though afraid to venture on the vast 
distance which lies between them and the 
waters of the Atlantic Ocean, their final des- 
tination — rears far heavenward its serried 
peaks. On the other side of the crest the 
scene is repeated, with this difference, that 
the waters stealing away through beds of 
tiny, delicately tinted mountain flowers, 
are destined to reach the Pacific Ocean, on 
the other side of the continent — so close 
together in their infancy, so far apart in 
their prime, or at their final grave— the 
ocean. This point is the apex, the centre 
of the North American Continent, the 
crowning peak ot that great backbone, 
whose iron ribs are represented by the 
many spurs that branch away in earnest 
support of the whole grand system. 

From this point, range on range, gorge 
after gorge, can be seen, interspersed with 
rugged peaks, which lend a peculiar wild- 
ness to the scene. Away to the east, lies 
the wast, grayish expanse of the plains, 
looking like some great ocean, its breast 
unstirred by the passing breeze, or rippled 
by a single prow. Nearer, still, among 
the bordering mountains nestling in the 
hollows and between the brown heights, 
lie miniature prairies, patches of green, 
on which the rays of the morning sun fall 
in folds of yellow light, enveloping them 
in a flood of golden beauty. Small and 
insignificant as they appear when com- 
pared with the vast sea of plains beyond, 
they are really large valleys, in which are 
found the farming lands of Colorado. 

These little valleys, as seen from the 
mountain tops, prove, on entering them, to 
be both wide and long. They consist of 
the North, Middle, South and San 
Luis Parks, which lie along, on either 
side of the line of Central Colorado. Each is 
a great central park or valley in itself, shut 
out from its neighbors by dividing ranges 
of rugged hills, the only entrances being 
along the numerous water courses, which 
have their origin in the valleys, and cut 
their way through the surrounding moun- 
tains in their passage to the sea. The 
extent of these parks varies, the largest be- 
ing about 80 miles long, with an average 
width of 40 miles. The smallest of the 



52 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



number will not exceed 30 miles in length, 
with a width of about 15 miles. Some of 
these lie on the Atlantic side of the " back- 
bone," while others rest on the Pacific 
side, their altitude being from 7,000 to 
10,000 leet. They are, in fact, great up- 
land basins, the reservoirs of the debris 
which for centuries has washed down the 
mountain sides. Their soil is fertile, 
yielding wi'd grasses in abundance, fur- 
nishing food for vast herds of sheep and 
cattle. 

In Europe or New England, were such 
plains found at such an altitude and in 
similar latitude, they would be worthless, 
barren wastes — probable regions of per- 
petual ice and snow; but here, grains and 
vegetables are successfully cultivated, and 
cattle graze the year round at the height of 
7,000 feet, while those valleys which lie 
between this altitude and that of the high- 
est — 10,000 feet — and including those, also 
afford excellent summer pasturage and 
great crops of natural grass, which is 
cured for hay and exported. 

These great fertile areas constitute one 
of the great resources of Colorado — an un- 
bounded field of wealth which requires no 
expensive machinery to develop. When 
these plains shall have been stocked and 
settled, when the golden grain shall wave 
in the morning breeze around the home 
of the pioneer, when these lands shall 
have been divided up and peopled, a new 
era of wealth and prosperity will dawn on 
Colorado — an era of steadily increasing 
and permanent progress, such as mines 
can never give. 

But we must away — "All aboard for Col- 
orado!" — While at dinner at the Railroad 
House in Cheyenne, the " Denver through 
sleeping car " is dropped from the Union 
Pacific train, and taken up by the through 
train on the 

Colorado Central Railroad. 

Chief office at Golden, Colorado. 

W. A. H. Love land,.. .Pres. and Gen. Manager. 

E L. Berthoud, Sec. and Chief Engineer. 

A. A.Egbert Superintendent. 

This was the first railroad corporation 
in Colorado, having been organized in 
1865. Ground was first broken at Golden, 
New Years day, 1868, and during the year 
10 miles of track graded. In September, 
1870, the broad gauge portion, between 
Golden and Denver, was completed. In 
April of the same year, work was com- 
menced on the division extending north to 



Longmont, and west to the mining cities 
of Central, Black Hawk, and Georgetown. 
The mountain portion of the " Central " is 
a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced 
about the same time as the Longmont di- 
vision, and completed Sept. 1st, 1871, to 
the junction of North and South Clear 
Creeks, 13 miles from Golden, and in 
December following, to Black Hawk 36 
miles from Denver. In March, 1873, the 
South Clear Creek line was completed to 
Floyd Hill, 3% miles above the forks, and 
to Georgetown in the fall of 1876. In the 
July of 1877, work was commenced on the 
extention from Longmont, and completed 
to Cheyenne in October of the same year, 
making the whole mileage of the "Central," 
184 miles, 130 being of the broad, and 54 
narrow gauge. 

Leaving Cheyenne, our course is west- 
ward over the track of the "Union Pacific," 
six miles to 

Colorado Junction— At Hazard, be- 
fore reaching the station building, our 
track branches off to the left, leaving the 
Union track on the north side of the plat- 
form, while ours is on the south side. 

At Hazard we meet the Overland train 
from the West, and hear the cry of "Change 
rars for all points in Colorado and New 
Mexico," and having received on board 
such passengers as are going our way, 
change our course to the southward and 
pass over a rolling prairie for a few miles, 
and then through deep, sandy cuts up a 
heavy grade, cross the line into Colorado, 
and descend by a great Horse-shoe curve 
into the valley of Lone Tree Creek, and 
after a distance of 9 5-10 miles, reach the 
station of 

Lone Tree — a side-track and water- 
tank, opposite the old stage station — the 
herds of cattle and sheep being the only 
objects of interest observable. 

Proceeding on down the valley, which 
in places is a half-mile in width, cross- 
ing and re-crossing Lone Tree Creek, we 
pass through several cuts of hard lime- 
rock. In one place, where the rock has 
been hauled away from the cut, it has been 
dumped, on the right of the track, a load 
in a place, close together, covering con- 
siderable ground, and the action of the 
atmosphere has caused these hard rocks to 
slacken and fall down to a white powder. 
Scientists are requested to explain "why 
this is thus , ? " Eight miles further is 

Taylors — a side-track. Here you get a 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



53 



good view of the 
Rocky Mountains, 
with LoDg's Peak tow- 
ering up the highest, 
on the right of the 
train. 

After passing Tay- 
lors, "Round Butte," 
a sharp, high peak 
rising up out of the 
plain on the left, ap- 
pears to view. This 
country is wholly giv- 
en over to stock-rais- 
ing, sheep being the 
principal kind, large 
flocks of which will 
be seen for the next 
twenty miles. 

To the eastward, on 
Lone Tree Creek, is 
a collection of tower- 
ing rocks— resembling, 
from some directions, 
an old castle — that are 
called " Natural Fort," 
they cannot be seen 
from the cars. 

Nine miles more, 
and we pass 

Bristol — on Box 
Elder Creek, another side-track. A few 
miles after passing Bristol, by looking 
away to the right, northwest, can be 
seen the Black Hills range, south of 
Sherman, and away up on the comb of 
the ridge, but 500 feet higher, rises on 
the view the " Steamboat Rock," so-called, 
but from our cars it resembles more 
closely a huge fortress, round and tur- 
reted, as seen from different directions. 
The hills are nearly bare of timber, and 
in places are very red, similar to those at 
Red Buttes, on the Union Pacific road, in- 
dicating the presence of iron. 

Soon our train reaches the high prairie, 
and then, if the day be a clear one, the 
passenger will have, on the right, one of 
the grandest mountain views that can be 
found on this continent, or the world, the 
great Rocky Mountain range, extending 
from north to south as far as the eye can 
reach. Immediately opposite is Long's 
Peak, 14,271 feet in height, the base of 
which seems almost at our feet, yet it is 
50 miles away. Beyond can be seen a 
few peaks of the " Snowy Range," covered 
at all times with a mantle of snow; these 
are full 150 miles distant. To the south, 




BURNING ROCK CUT, NEAR GREEN RIVER. 

that towering old mountain peak — the 
great land-mark for the " Pilgrims " of 
l«58-9— Pikes Peak looms up 156 miles 
away. 

Continuing along on this high table-land, 
we pass several small lakelets on our right, 
and then comes in view the valley of the 
Cache-a-la Poudre River, a tributary of the 
South Platte River, which has its source 
in the mountain springs around the base of 
Long's Peak. This river, which we will 
cross at the next station, is about 50 miles 
in length, running through one of the 
loveliest valleys in the State. It is thickly 
settled and the settlers raise abundant 
crops. 

To our right, away up the valley, em- 
bowered in shade trees and orchards, is 
the old city of La Porte, a few buildings 
of which can be seen through the thick 
foliage. It was once an important point 
on the old overland stage road, which 
runs from Denver along the base of the 
mountains to this place, and continues on 
through Virginia Dale Canyon to Laramie 
Plains. La Porte is a small place of per- 
haps 100 inhabitants, a good hotel, several 
stores and some fine residences. It is 



54 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



noted as being one of the best places in 
the State for game, a place where deer, 
elk, mountain sheep, bear, and moun- 
tain lions can be found, as well as 
the finest trout fishing in the whole 
mountain range. Descending into the 
valley we cross numerous irrigating ditches, 
and then a long bridge over the Cache-a-la 
Poudre River to the south bank, and 
stop at 

Fort Collins — the first place of much 
importance since leaving Cheyenne, 48 
miles distant, and 80 miles from Denver. 

Fort Collins is the county seat of Lara- 
mie county, in the midst ot as fine agricul- 
tural section as there is in the State. It 
has several churches and schools, one 
flouring mill, a dozen or more stores, two 
good hotels — the Collins and the Blake — 
several small manufactories, and is popu- 
lated by an enterprising and thrifty people, 
numbering about 500. The towu is a short 
distance to the left, east of the station 
Passing on to the southward, we cross 
several large irrigating canals — one be- 
longing to the " Greeley Colony," of 
which we shall speak hereafter — and up 
over a rolling prairie 13 6-10 miles to 

Loveland — rightly named. Tnis place 
was cognomed after the president of the 
road, than whom a more enterprising, ener- 
getic, and persevering man never set foot in 
Colorado, and the people at Loveland Sta- 
tion have become, to a great extent, in- 
spired with the same spirit of progress that 
animated him, as is manifest in the improve- 
ments surrounding this station, where, in 
June 1877 ; — there were but very few 
buildings to be seen. Now, there are sev- 
eral stores, a good station building, some 
fine private residences, and an air of thrift 
pervades the scene on every hand. Wheat, 
oats, barley and corn are the principal pro- 
ductions — of the first two named the crops 
are very abundant. 

Proceeding on, we soon come down into 
the valley of Big Thompson Creek, upon 
which are some fine farms, especially on 
the upper portion near the mountains. 
Crossing the creek, and up over another 
stretch of high rolling prairie, we descend to 
another small valley, through which runs 
Little Thompson, which we cross and 
stop at 

Berthoud— a small side-track station, 
9 4-10 miles from Loveland. Continuing 
our journey, we again pass over a high 
rolling prairie, used mostly for grazing, 
4 3-10 miles to 



Long's Peak — or "Highland," as it is 
sometimes called — but really we could not 
see anything to call, unless it were the 
sheep, and they were numerous; also, fur- 
ther on, some farmers were engaged in 
"tickling the soil," which, when irrigated, 
produces abundant crops. 

Five miles further, and we are at 

Longmont — This is one of the most im- 
portant towns on the road. It is situated 
on the high prairie sloping to the south- 
ward, about half-a-mile north of St. Vrain 
River, the waters of which are taken out 
about seven miles west of the town and 
conducted in ditches over the highlands on 
each side of tlie river, which produces 
large crops of wheat, barley, oats, corn and 
other crops annually. During the last 
year, over 300 car loads of wheat were 
shipped from Longmont, besides what was 
ground in three mills located near the 
town. Wheat often yields 30 bushels to 
the acre ; oats 50. 

Longmont has three church edifices, two 
schools, two hotels — the St. Vrain and the 
City — ten stores, and a great many kinds 
of shops and small establishments. The 
Longmont Post is a live weekly, published 
here. Its population is about 800, and 
rapidly increasing. 

The streets are laid out at right angles, 
and are ornamented with shade trees of 
various kinds, as are many of the private 
residences. 

In the summer, a stage leaves here for 

Estes Park— 30 miles distant, to the 
westward. This is a beautiful little valley, 
about six miles long by 4% wide, sur- 
rounded by mountain peaks, chief of which 
is Long's, about 10 miles to the northward. 
Spruce and pine trees abound in the park, 
sufficiently near each other to afford a 
beautiful and cooling shade in the hottest 
days in summer. 

Crossing St. Vrain River, which, a few 
miles above, forks, the southern branch of 
which is called Left Hand, we again as- 
cend the rolling prairie, and six miles from 
Longmont reach 

Ni Wot— a station named for a mine 
and mill on the side of the mountain in 
plain view. The country here is nearly all 
under cultivation, that portion between the 
road and the mountains being very pro- 
ductive. 

Eight miles further on we arrive at 

Boulder — This city is about one mile to 
the westward, at the base of the mountain, 
and mouth of Boulder Canyon. It is the 



CR0FUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



county seat of Boulder county, one of the 
richest in the State . 

The chief business in which the citizens 
are engaged, is mining and agriculture 
— gold, coal and iron being the principal 
minerals. There are three ore sampling 
works, one smelting furnace, one iron fur- 
nace, two flouring mills — the latter turning 
out 350 sacks of flour daily — one large 
foundry and machine shop, and numerous 
small manufactories. 

There are many good business blocks, 
four church edifices, and several good 
schools, besides the State University, which 
is located here. Of newspapers there are 
two, both weekly, the News and the Ban- 
ner. The American is the principal hotel. 
Population, about 2,000. 

Boulder Canyon, at the mouth of which 
the city is located, contains some magnifi- 
cent scenery, — see illustration and Annex 
No. 11, — and is the outlet to the valley for 
some of the richest mines in the State. In 
the western or mountainous portion of the 
county are located the Gold Hill, Sugar 
Loaf, Caribou, Pennsylvania, Snowy 
Range, Gold Lake, Ward, Jamestown and 
other rich mining districts, containing 
numerous stamp mills and reduction 
works, which yield a wealth of the precious 
metals daily. 

Near the station we cross the track of 
the Boulder Valley railroad, of which 
Boulder is the western terminus. This 
road connects with the Denver Pacific at 
Hughes' station, 17 miles north of Denver. 
It is operated by the Denver Pacific Rail- 
road Co. It was projected in the first place 
for a coal road, but afterwards improved, 
and is now in good condition and doing a 
good passenger and freight business 

Looking down the valley, as we leave 
the station, two high peaks, or buttes, can 
be seen, rising some hundreds of feet above 
the plains, which are near the site of the 
town of Valmont, started in 1863 to rival 
Boulder, but did not succeed. 
_ Crossing Boulder Creek to the south 
side we soon pass Pettis Lake, noted for 
its numerous sunfish; and 5 5-10 miles 
more brings us to 

^ Davidson — on South Boulder — a small 
side-track. Two miles further and we 
reach 

Coal Creek— on the stream of that 
name — after crossing which we commence 
a heavy up grade, through deep cuts, and 
on for ten miles to 

Churches— This is a small side-track, 



named for a butcher and cattle dealer who 
lived near by, in 1862-3. It is in a region 
where irrigation was first resorted to in 
Colorado, ditches for which purpose take 
the water from Ralston and Clear Creeks. 

From Churches we proceed over another 
dividing ridge of prairie-land seven miles 10 

Ralston — Situated on the creek of that 
name, which comes down through a deep 
cut in the " Hog-back " Ridge, two miles 
to the west. 

From Ralston, our course is to the south- 
west, up a heavy grade, two miles to the 
summit, where we iun between the Table 
Mountain on the east, and the " Rockies," 
on the west; then, as we descend, on the 
west, can be seen the old Golden Gate 
wagon road into the mountains, over 
which — until the building of the "Central," 
through Clear Creek Canyon — passed up 
and over the "Guy Hill," ail the travel for 
the mining regions of Gilpin and Clear 
Creek counties. 

One mile further, down grade, making 
three from Ralston, and we stop at 

Golden — This city is often called the 
" Lowell " of Colorado, on account of the 
number of manufactories located in and 
near the city. 

Golden was first settled in 1859, then, it 
was a lively place, owing to the gulch 
mining on Clear Creek, both above and 
below the town, but these "placers" having 
been worked out, the place declined. In 
1863 it took a step forward in the estab- 
lishment of a pottery and paper mill, the 
first within 800 miles; but since the com- 
pletion of the Central, rapid progress 
has been made. The town now 7 contains 
about 4,500 inhabitants, and besides the 
manufactories above named, has three 
flouring mills, a manufactory for making 
fire brick, the Golden Smelting AVorks, 
which turn out about $300,000 worth of 
bullion and lead annually, and the Golden 
Smelting and Dressing Works, another 
very extensive establishment. Besides these, 
there are several saw T mil s and manufac- 
tories of small wares The School of 
Mines for the State is located here. 

Golden is the county seat of Jefferson 
county, is due west of Denver 14 miles by 
wagon, and 16 miles by railroad, situated 
on Clear Creek, or Vasquez Fork, just be- 
low where it debouches from the moun- 
tains, and close above the Table Moun- 
tains, which rise 1,000 feet above the town, 
in what must have been at one time a great 
basin or lake, before the waters of the 



56 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



creek cut their way through to the plain 
below. 

These mountains are nearly round, flat 
on the top and covered with grass, from 
the summit of which, a magnificent view 
can be had of the towns of Golden, Den- 
ver, Boulder, and down the Platte River to 



the city, emptying its waters into the 
Platte four miles below Denver. The 
stream affords great natural advantages for 
manufactories, the water-power being un- 
limited, and mill sites numerous. 

The business of the town is principally 
with the mining region to the westward, 



the northeast, up to the Arkansas Divide, to j and while we are here we will take a run 



the southeast, and out on to the broad 
plains to the east, as far as the eye can 
reach. 

The court house at Golden, is of a fine 
quality of brick, with cut stone facings, 
standing on an eminence overlooking the 
city. There are six church edifices, one 
large public school, capable of aci orn mo- 
dating 800 pupils, several hotels, among 
which are the Bacon, Overland, Golden, 
Johnson, and Astor. Golden has two 
weekly papers, the Colorado Transcript, 
published by Geo. West, a Revolutionary 
soldier of 1812, or rather a pioneer of 1859, 
and the Colorado Globe, by Donaldson & 
Moore. 



up and see what can be seen. " Change 
cars," — this time, for the narrow gauge, and 
away we go to the west, up, up, through a 
narrow canyon, with the creek on our left, 
and the towering mountains rising above 
our heads, on either hand, 1,000 feet or 
more. 

We follow the creek in its tortuous 
course, in places 100 feet above, and ihen 
along on a level with its banks 3 2-10 
miles to 

Chimney Gulch — a station only in 
name. In 1863, a wagon road was built 
up this canyon to Guy Gulch, three miles 
further, which it followed up about three 
miles to where it intersected the old Golden 



There are several quartz mines near the Gate road, at the foot of Guy Hill. Near 

town, and the whole section is underlaid | the junction of this wagon road, which 

with coal mines of good quality, which j comes in on the right, with Clear Creek, 

are successfully worked. are many evidences of placer mining; but 

Clear Creek rises about 60 miles from i little has been done since 1859 and 60, 

when this was a busy 
camp. 

From Guy Gulch our 
course is more to the left, 
crossing the creek to 
the south, between high 
towering cliffs, for 1 6-10 
miles to 

Beaver Brook — the 
first stopping place so far 
on the route. Beaver 
Brook — a small stream 
comes in on the left, down 
a narrow canyon, up 
which six miles distant 
is located a sawmill, in 
the midst of a perfect 
forest of timber. 

Opposite the station 
building, away up on a 
projecting point of the 
mountain, 200 feet above 
the road, and almost over- 
hanging it, is located a 
pavilion, with a stairway 
leading to it from near 
the platform below. In 
the summer this place is 
a great resort for pic-nic 
parties from the valley 




MORMON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY. 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



57 



below, and the mountains town above; 
also for school children, the railroad 
company running extra trains for their 
accommodation. 

The scenery at this point is grand; the 
mountains are full 1,000 feet above the 
road, on either hand, and covered in places 
with a dense growth of young pine and 
spruce trees, presenting as wild, pictur- 
esque and romantic appearance as one 
could wish. 

Leaving the station, our road makes a 
30 degree curve to the right, up a grade of 
272 feet to the mile, under a projecting 
spur of th-3 mountain, which rises 1,500 
feet above our train (see Annex No. 12), 
with the creek close on our right. 

Soon we cross the creek, and, one mile 
from Beaver Brook, pass 

Elk Creek — a side-track — and con- 
tinue our climbing between towering 
mountains on each side, 3 4-10 miles 
further to 

Big Hill — Here the old Mt. Vernon 
wagon road comes down the mountain 
from the left, the grade of which, in places, 
is 34 feet to the 100. This road leaves the 
val'ey about two miles south of Golden, 
and after climbing the mountains via Mt. 
Vernon Canyon, to an altitude of 8,000 
feet, descends this " hill " and runs up the 
north branch of Clear Creek to Black 
Hawk. Many of the mills and the ma- 
chinery used in these mountains, in early 
days, before the railroad, were hauled over 
this road ; and where the grades were the 
steepest, the wagons were eased down by 
ropes secured by a turn or two around 
huge pine trees beside the road, and at 
this time, the marks of the ropes are to be 
seen where they have peeled the bark, so 
taut were the lines. We know— of our 
own personal knowledge — where it took 
ten men, besides their teams, nine days to 
lower down this "hill" one boiler, the 
weight of which was a little over seven 
tons. Those who grumble at railroad 
charges, please take notice; the wagon 
road, is still there— try it. But we must 
away, 1 1-10 miles further and we are at 
the 

Junction— of North and South Clear 
Creek. Here the route for Georgetown 
turns to the left, across the bridge, while 
that for Black Hawk and Central keeps to 
the right. As we have always had a 
desire to do right, 'we will keep to the 
right awhile longer, and note the result. 
From this point to Black Hawk, seven 



miles — and we might include that portion 
from Floyd Hill to Georgetown, on the 
south fork — nearly every foot of the 
creek bed has been dug over, time and 
again, by miners, in search of the yellow 
metal — gold. Dams, in many places, have 
turned the waters of the creek, through 
flumes, first on one side of the creek bed, 
then on the other, and the greater portion 
of the earth, from surface to bed-rock, and 
one side the gulch to the other, have been 
dug and washed over by white men, and 
when given up by them, have been 
"jumped " by the Chinese, many of whom 
can be seen daily, washing and working 
these old "placer diggings" over again. 
Leaving the junction — the road is on the 
east side of the creek — we proceed 2 1-10 
miles to 

Cottonwood — a milk ranche, a side-track, 
2 7-10 miles fiom 

Smith Hill — where the old wagon road, 
built by Mr. E. B. Smith, of Golden, in 
1862, comes down from a narrow ravine 
on the east. The mountains on each side 
are steep and high, more so than for the 
last two miles below the station. 

Nearly opposite this station, comes 
down Russell Gulch, up which are located 
the old placer mines, so noted in 1859. 

Proceeding upward and onward, about 
one mile above the station, we pass, on the 
left, the old Excelsior and the Whipple 
Mills, now abandoned, except as a shelter 
for a few Chinese miners, who work along 
tue creek or " washee, washee " for a 
living. 

By looking away up the mountain side 
on the left, westward, can be seen the rail- 
road-track where it runs along, first to the 
south, then back to the north,"gaining alti- 
tude at each turn, in order to overcome the 
heavy grade and allow our train to run 
into Central City. 

Rolling along, we pass several quartz 
mills ; across the creek to the west bank, 
and along the road on the right, are located 
the Reduction Works, conducted by Prof. 
Hill. These works are said to be the 
largest in America, and the most successful. 
The weekly average value of gold, silver, 
copper and lead, amounts to $200,000 ; most 
of the ores treated are purchased from 
parties working mines in the vicinity, or 
on South Clear Creek. 
From Smith Hill, it is 2 3-10 miles to 
Black Hawk — a city of about 3,000 in- 
habitants, all of whom are engaged in 
mining, directly or indirectly. The build- 




DONNER LAKE BOATING PARTY. 



ings are sandwiched in between the 
gulches, ravines, mines, rocks, and pro- 
jecting mountain crags in the most irregu- 
lar manner. 

Gold, in paying quantities was first dis- 
covered in tins section of country, at this 
place, by John H. Gregory, May 6th, 1859. 
During the summer, the great rush of gold- 
seekers commenced in earnest, and the 
mountains were overrun with prospectors, 
every day bringing reports of rich placer 
diggings or quartz discoveries. 

Close upon the discovery of gold, came 
the newspaper. The Rocky Mountain Gold 
Reporter and Mountain Ci y Herald were 
established Aug. 6th, 1859, by Mr. Thos. 
Gibson, at this lime, one of Omaha's 
mot esteemed citizens. The Post, a 
weekly, is the only paper published here 
now. 

Quartz mills are numerous in and 
around Black Hawk; the rattling of their 
descending stamps, night and day, speaks 
in thunder tones of the great wealth of this 



mountain country, one of the great treas- 
ure-chambers of the American Continent. 

The wagon road to Central City keeps up 
Gregory Gulch, west through old Mountain 
City, past several quartz mills, distance 
two miles; by rail it is much further. 

The railroad grade between Black Hawk 
and Central — a heavy one— was completed 
during the summer of 1878. The track 
runs up North Clear Creek north of Black 
Bawk, and curves around to the west and 
southward again, passing through the up- 
per part of the city, and along the side of 
the mountain as heretofore described, af- 
fording the passenger a fine view of Fur- 
naces, "Stamp- VI ills, and the Railroad along 
Clear Creek up which we came to reach 
Black Hawk, as also a good view of that city. 

Central City — county seat of Gilpin 
county; altitude 8,240 feet, being about 
800 feet higher than Black Hawk. The 
city has a permanent population of about 
4,000, and, like the people of Black Hawk, 



ckofutt's new overland tourist 



59 



are all connected with the mining industry, 
more or less. The Reg ester, a daily and 
weekly paper, enlightens the citizens on 
the news ot the day, while the Teller and 
the Granite hotels, provide good accommo- 
dations for the traveling public. 

Central is the center of an extensive 
mining section, composed of small vil- 
lages, camps, or "diggings," some of 
which number 500 and 600 inhabitants, 
who purchase the greater portion of their 
goods at the county seat. 

The mountains surrounding Central and 
Black Hawk— when gold was first dis- 
covered in them — were covered with a 
dense growth of pine and spruce trees, but 
they are about all cut off now, and the 
whole mountain top and sides, with the 
stumps and prospect holes, present a fac<', 
— " pock-marked," we should say, were it a 
child, beyond the recognition of its own 
mother. 

Gilpin county contains 19 quartz mills, 
with 595 stamps, which crush 450 tons of 
ore per clay. We will now return to the 

Junction— cross the bridge and start up 
South Clear Creek towards Georgetown. 

Soon after leaving the station our train 
arrives at a narrow gorge and a sharp curve 
in the road, where a huge spur of the 
mountains projects out, within 200 feet of 
its tall brother on the opposite side of the 
creek; and as the train passes under this 
over-hanging cliff, we enter one of 'he grand- 
est natural amphitheaters in the world. 
The moun ain rises over 2,000 feet above the 
stream which is here compressed to a rapid 
torrent, thundering at its very base. The 
scenery for the next two miles is unusu- 
ally impressive. In places small pine and 
cedar trees can be se^ n in the gorges and 
crevices, which add an additional beauty 
to the scene. 

In places the space between the moun- 
tain cliffs is j list sufficient for the creek and 
road ; i j. others, the road-bed has had to be 
blasted out from the mountain side. 

About three miles above the Junction 
the road curves to the right, opposite the 
base of Floyd Hill, down which comes the 
old wagon road, from Bergens township to 
the south, and follows up the west bank 
and crosses the creek at 

Floyd Hill Station — 3 7-10 mile.i from 
the Junction. 

From this point up to Georgetown, 21 
miles, the creek shows many evidences of 
" placer mining," and is one of the sections 
alluded to on a preceeding page. 



Passing up, the creek bottom widens, 
and the mountains are not as high. Several 
old deserted mills are to be seen, and some 
work in the placer diggings along the 
creek. Five miles brings us to 

Idaho Springs— situated in Clear Creek 
county, on South Clear Creek, 22 miles 
west of Golden, and 16 miles east of 
Georgetown — elevation 7,800 feet. The 
population number 1,000, most of whom are 
engaged in mining, in the immediate vi- 
cinity. There are some good blocks of 
business buildings, a concentrating works, 
several stamp m lis, a bank, stores and 
small shops of all kinds, many fine private 
residences, and two large hotels, besides a 
number of boarding houses. The Beebe 
House is the principal hotel. 

In April, 1859, gold was discovered in 
paying quantities, on what is known now 
as Chicago Creek, a small stream that 
comes down from the south, opposite the 
station in Idaho, but these placer diggings 
were soon worked out, and then came the 
search for quartz mines, the result of 
which has made this county one of the 
most noted in the mountains as a gold and 
silver producing region. 

Numerous quartz mills, and many rich 
lodes are situated near Idaho. The Seaton 
is on the side of the mountain, north, in 
plain view from the towm; Virginia Can- 
yon coming in to the north, has several ; 
Chicago Creek, to the south, contains 
among others, the Cascade, into which a 
tunnel has been driven 550 ieet. 

Idaho, for its hot aDd cold mineral 
springs— and swimming baths — has be- 
come noted as an attractive summer resort. 
1 1 is claimed the waters contain rare me- 
dicinal properties, and are nearly identical, 
in chemical ingredients and temperature, 
with the celebrated Carlsbad waters of 
Germany. Prof. Pohel gives the follow- 
ing as the analysis of the water in propor- 
tion to the gallon. 

Carbonate of Soda 30.80 

M " Lime, 9.52 

tk Magnesia, 2.88 

" " Iron, 4.12 

Sulphate of Soda 29.36 

" Magnesia, 18.72 

" Lime 3.44 

Chloride of Sodium 4.16 

Chlorides of Calcium and Magnesium, cf each 

a trace. 
Silicate of Soda, 4.08 

Grains 107 .00 

At the springs are two swimming baths, 
one 30 by 50 feet, five feet deep, the other 20 



GO 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



by 40, and four feet deep, also private 
baths, varying in temperature from 60 to 
110 deg. fahr., so arranged that the bather 
has full control of the temperature of the 
water. Besides the springs above named, 
there is, in close proximity, a cold mineral 
spring of sparkling, effervescent water, 
which, for drinking purposes, is very 
excellent. 

[We hear a rumor that the railroad 
company propose, at an early clay, to erect 
at these springs a large hotel capable of 
accommodating 200 guesls, and that the 
house will "be provided with all modern 
improvements, the hot and cold spring 
water conducted into every room, and to 
baths — on every floor, which will be free 
to all guests of the house.] 

Good accommodations can be had at the 
hotels and boarding houses for prices 
ranging from $7 to $14 per week. 

To the south of Idaho— at Brookvale — 
on Bear Creek, is a very beautiful summer 



resort. It is the residence of W. E. Sisty, 
Esq., Fish Commissioner for the State of 
Colorado; and what Sisty cannot tell you 
about fish in this State, would add little to 
your education. Game of all kinds, deer, 
elk, mountain sheep, mountain bison, are 
abundant, and some of the finest trout fish- 
ing near, that can be found in the whole 
mountain region. 

Leaving Idaho, and continuing on up 
the north side of the creek, we come to 
Spanish Bar, once noted for its placer 
diggings; near, is located the Whale mill, 
on the opposite side of the creek. 
This is a brick building, 75 by 139 feet, 
with two wings, 50 by 75 feet, built in 1864, 
and intended for 128, and provided with 
Bertola stamps (weighing 300 pounds 
each), an iron Chilian mill for each bat- 
tery, tanks for catching the crushed ore, 
tanks for treating it by the Bertola pro- 
cess, and 100 Beitola pans. About 600 
feet above the mill, a dam was built, which 




SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAINS, 10,000 FEET HIGH.- 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



61 



afforded ample water for driving two large 
turbine wheels. To the south, away on up 
the side of the mountain, is located the 
Whale mine, marked by an old tram-way 
down to the mill. The parties owning the 
mill and mine resided in England, and 
after expending $200,000 in the vicinity, 
abandoned it, and nothing has been done 
with the works or mine in the last twelve 
years. 

Just above Spanish Bar, Trail Run 
comes in from the southwest ; up this creek 
are some good quartz mines, and exten- 
sive forests of timber. Fall River, another 
small creek, about eight miles long, on 
which are over 1,000 quartz claim loca- 
tions, and several mills, comes down a half- 
mile above Trail Run, from the north. 

Above Fall River, half-a-mile, Turkey 
Run comes down from the south, at the 
junction of which, and Clear Creek, is lo- 
cated the Syracuse Mill. A little further on 
we have Spring Gulch, from the north, 
where is located some mills and valuable 
mines. From Idaho, our train passes all 
the points above named, and after a run of 
5 6-10 miles arrives at 

Mill City — at the mouth of Mill Creek, 
which comes down from the northward. 
At Mill Ciiy is located several quartz 
mills, and above, on the creek, are some 
valuable quartz mines, a smelting furnace, 
and several stamp mills. Passing several 
mills, numerous prospect holes and tun- 
nels in the mountain sides, some placer 
mining along the creek, and we come to 

Lawsons — a small side-track station at 
the base of Red Elephant Mountain. In 
the fall of 1877, several rich quartz mines 
were discovered on this mountain, and 
large quantities of ore hauled down to this 
station and shipped East, and to Prof. Hill's 
works, at Black Hawk. 

The opening or " dump " of some of 
the mines, can be seen away up near the 
top of the mountain, marked by a white 
deposite line, extending down towards the 
valley below. 
Continuing up, 1 3-10 miles, we pass 
Empire — a small town situated on the 
north side of the road, in as pretty a loca- 
tion and with as picturesque surroundings 
as can be found in the mountains of Col- 
orado. Bard's Creek, from the south, and 
Lyon's, from the north, reach Clear 
Creek opposite each other, their deltas, 
with the elevated bars of the creek, form- 
ing the town site. The great mountains 
of Douglas, Covode, Lincoln, and Eureka, I 



rise above the town in different directions 
1,500 feet or more. The elevation of Em- 
pire is 8,583 feet. 

North, about one mile, away up on the 
mountain, 1,400 feet, is located the Empire 
mines. There are quite a number of stamp 
mills and furnaces for treating ores located 
at and near the town, on Lyon's Creek and 
North Empire. 

The road over the range to the Middle 
Park, via Berthoud Pass — 11,350 feet — runs 
through Empire, and is one of the most 
beautiful mountain roads for variety of 
ever-changing panoramic views, to be had 
in the world. 

From Empire, our road lies on the west 
side of the creek, running along the base 
of Republican Mountain, which rises 
above the road, almost perpendicular, 
1,250 feet, while on ihe east, Alpine Moun- 
tain elevates its crest, 2,000 feet high ; on 
the sides of these mountains are shafts, 
tunnels, and prospect holes in great num- 
bers. 

Our course is south, 4 2-10 miles to the 
end of the road at 

Georgetown — which is situated in the 
center of the great silver mining region of 
Colorado, at the base of the Snowy 
Range, near the source of Clear Creek, 
— 8,452 feet elevation — 22 miles west from 
Idaho, 54 from Denver, and 184 from Chey- 
enne. 

Georgetown is the county seat of Clear 
Creek county, has a population of 3,500, 
and some very good business blocks ; one 
bank, numerous stamp mills and ore 
sampling and reduction works, five 
churches, good schools, two weekly news- 
papers — the Miner and the Courier — and 
quite a number of hotels, chief of which 
are the Barton, the Phelps and the Ameri- 
can. The Barton is one of the best houses 
in Colorado, and, together with its "Annex" 
opposite, is capable of accommodating 
200 guests. Masonic, Odd Fellows and 
other secret orders have their halls for 
meetings. Gas works supply the town 
with illuminating facilities, and water — 
the finest in the world — is conducted in 
pipes from a mammoth reservoir, 500 feet 
above the city, which affords great protec- 
tion in case of fire. 

There are a number of little towns and 
mining camps near Georgetown, chief of 
which are Silver Plume, Brownville and 
Silver Dale, from two to three miles dis- 
tant. 
One remarkable fact exists — and we have 




FOREST VIEW — THE FOOT HILLS OF CALIFORNIA. 



it on good authority— that the thermometer 
never has been known to mark more than 
four degrees below zero in the city of 
Georgetown. Situated as it is, this city, at 
the head of the valley, walled in on three 
sides by lofty mountains, which protect it 
from the wind and storms, the air is of 
great purity, and the climate mild. 

The first discovery of silver in this re- 
gion, was made by James Huff, Sept. 14th, 
1864; the location is about eight miles 
above Georgetown. 

The Georgetown people boast of a bit of 
scenery, about ten minutes walk from the 
hotel, called the "Devil's Gate" and 
" Bridal Vail." Now what the " Bridal 
Vail " has got to do with the " Devil's 
Gate," we never could understand. Are 
they synonymous words ? 

Green Lake— is 2 1-2 miles distant 
from Georgetown, reached by an easy car- 
riage road that winds up the side of the 
mountain, from which there is a fine view 



of the valley and the town. This beautiful 
body of water, half-a-mile long by a quar- 
ter wide, is without a peer in any land. In 
a row in one of the elegant boats over its 
surface, the tourist can see the petrified 
forest standing upright many feet below 
the surface, with trout swimming among 
its branches. Here, in the large hatching 
houses, are thousands of California salmon 
of various ages, while in the lake there have 
been placed over ten thousand trout. 

The Snake River Pass— has also a 
good carriage road to its summit. Here 
you can f-tand, one foot resting on the At- 
lantic, the other on the Pacific Slope. 
From this point is one of the grandest 
views of mountain scenery on the conti- 
nent, including the Mount of the Holy 
Cross, so named by the early explorers 
from the gigantic cross of eternal snow 
that rests upon the bosom of the mountain. 
The tourist can here pick flowers with one 
hand and gather snow with the other. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



63 



Gray's Peak— is reached by carriage- 
road, and easy bridle trail from George- 
town. The road passes through Silver 
Plume and Brownville, both important as 
silver mining towns. The scenery on the 
route is very beautiful, and after reaching 
the summit, one of the grandest mountain 
views in the world lies before the tourist. 
Should you see sunrise from the summit 
of this grand old mountain, you would 
feel like exclaiming with the poet : 

"The hills— the everlasting hills- 
How peerlecsly they rise! 
Like earth's gigantic sentinels 
Discoursing in the skies ! " 

Middle Park — with its celebrated hot 
sulphur springs — bathing in which, it is 
said, "restores health to the invalid and 
gives beauty to the homely," — is reached 
by stage, which leaves Georgetown every 
other day. (See Annex No. 59.) 

In the park, trout are caught in all the 
streams, and elk, deer, bears, and small 
game are plentiful among its hills. This 
is a trip that tourists who are fond of hunt- 
ing game worthy o; their best efforts to ob- 
tain, or catching the shining trout for their 
morning sport, will not fail to make, and 
when made, will never be forgotten. 

To the southeast of the town, the road 
leads over the mountains to Breckenridge, 
in the South Park, crossing the range at 
an altitude of 13,000 feet. 

Georgetown is the home of some of Col- 
orado's oldest and most esteemed pioneers, 
among whom is Stephen Decatur, Esq., 
late Commissioner from the State, to the 
Centennial Exposition, at Philadelphia. 

The " Commodore," as Mr. Decatur is 
more commonly called, has become widely 
known and respected throughout the State 
as a correspondent for many of the Eastern 
papers, and as editor, for a long time, of the 
Georgetown Miner, as well as for his course 
in the legislative halls of the State. 

In conclusion — as we have advised the 
tourist in regard to the carriage routes from 
the city, it would seem quite proper to 
st-tte that there are several livery stables in 
the city; but the one where the tourist 
will get the most complete outfit at the 
most reasonable price, is known as the 
" Metropolitan Livery Stable and Omnibus 
Line," by S. W. Nott. 

We now return to Golden, and start down 
the creek between the Table Mountains en- 
route for the capital of Colorado. 

Junction — is two miles east, near the 
site of the old town of Arapaho — where 



gold was discovered in 1859 and over fifty 
houses erected, none of which are now 
standing. 

The Junction is a small station where 
passengers — while the road from Ralston 
to this point, on the east side of the Table 
Mountains was in operation — "changed 
cars" for different points, the same as is 
now clone at Golden. 

From the junction our course is along 
down the north bank of Clear Creek — 
passing the mouth of Ralston and many 
irrigating canals — through some fine farms 
and well cultivated fields. We pass 
many cosy farm houses, and a side-track, 
six miles from the junction, called 

Arvada — where we cross the creek to the 
southeast, and— after gaining the high 
rolling prairie four miles further — arrive 
at the 

Summit — another station only in name. 

On this " Summit," had we time to look 
around, the view would be most beautiful. 
The city of Denver lies to the southeast, 
the "Divide," to the south, the great 
Platte Valley close in the foreground, and 
to the right and left, the broad plains in 
the far east, limitless apparently to the 
eye, while in the background, are the 
Rocky Mountains, the base of which is 
near, but the peaks, and the "range," to 
the north and south, is only bounded by 
the horizon. But, we must away ! Down- 
ward, over the rolling prairie, two miles 
further brings us to a broad, beautiful 
piece of bottom land, containing a few 
hundred acres, where — in 1860 — was the 
old race-track. In 1864, the writer had as 
fine crops on one hundred acres of this 
land, as could be seen in the West, but, the 
great flood of May "came as the waves 
come when navies are stranded." and took 
our last 15 cents to the Missouri River, and 
we have hunted for it ever since. 
River. 

From the Summit it is 3^ miles down 
to the Platte River, where the train crosses 
it, and another half mile stops us at 

Denver— the capital, and great rail- 
road and commercial center of the State of 
Colorado. The population of this re- 
markable city is 20,000 ; an annual average 
increase — commencing at 0, nineteen years 
ago— of over 1,000 people. 

Denver is the county seat of Arapaho 
county, fourteen miles east, in a direct 
line, from the base of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. It is situated in the valley of the 
South Platte River— on the eastern bank — 



64 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



at a point where the rolling prairie land 
gradually slopes to the westward, facing 
the mountains at the junction of Cherry 
Creek, 5,224 feet above sea level. 

The mountains extend north and south 
as far as the eye can trace their rugged 
heights. The highest points, Long's Peak, 
to the north, Pike's Peak, to the south, 
and the "dome of the continent," Gray's, 
in the center, are in full view, towering far 
above the tops of the surrounding moun- 
tains. An open, rolling country surrounds 
the city, being the outer border of that im- 
mense plain which stretches away to the 
waters of the Missouri River, 600 miles to 
the eastward. Denver is built up prin- 
cipally with brick of the best quality, pro- 
duced near the city — and in point of rich- 
ness, beauty, and the style of its private 
residences, is not to be outdone by any city 
five times its age. 

The city has many fine brick business 
blocks, a United States mint, 20 church 
edifices, or places where regular public 



worship is held, eight banks, including 
three for savings ; secret orders are numer- 
ous, so much so, that there are no secrets 
any more— say what you like. Of flour- 
ing mills, there. are five; street car lines, 
several; breweries, three. 

The city is provided with water by 
the Holly system, and a canal 15 miles 
long, which conducts the water from 
Platte Canyon, to the southwest, over the 
high prairie to a reservoir above the city, 
from which, a portion of it, is made to flow 
through the streets of the city, and the 
parks and grounds of many of the citizens. 
The influence for good, of these little 
sparkling streams of pure mountain water, 
and the long rows of shade trees that have 
been set out on each side of the streets, 
within the last five years — upon the health 
of the citizens, as well as the sanitary con- 
dition of the city,- cannot be overestimated 
or described. 

Besides the above, Denver is well sup- 
plied with seminaries, schools, gas works, 




YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2,634 FEET FALL, YO-SEMITE VALLEY 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



65 



four daily newspapers — the News, Times, 
Tribune, and the Democrat, each of which 
issue weeklies— together with eight or ten 
others, that are exclusively weekly, the 
principal of which are, the Rocky Moun- 
tain Herald, (who has not heard of Gold- 
rick's Herald ?) the Colorado Farmer, the 
Journal, and the Mirror. In fact, Denver 
is supplied with all the " modern improve- 
ments," including many big hotels, and 
more little hotels, but the principal ones 
are the Grand Central, the American, with 
its annex, the Inter-Ocean, and the Went- 
worth. What cannot be found in Denver, 
you need not hunt for in the West. 

The State Agricultural Society has 40 
acres of ground adjoining Denver, where 
stalls, etc., have been erected for the ac- 
commodation of animals at the annual 
fairs. A half-mile race track is laid out 
and the buildings and the land enclosed 
with a concrete wall, the whole costing 
about $10,000. 

The Ford Park Association have a race 
track about two miles northeast of the 
city ; it is handsomely enclosed, and kept 
in good repair. On every afternoon the 
fast horses of Denver and their fast drivers 
can be seen enjoying the smooth track at 
2 :40 speed. (See Annex, No. 60.) 

The Board of Trade was organized in 
Denver in the fall of 1867, by the capital- 
ists and business men of the city, especially 
to build the Denver Pacific railroad, which 
it aided to a great extent. The Board has 
taken the lead since, however, in all public 
enterprises, and has been one of the lead- 
ing instrumentalities in promoting the 
growth and prosperity of the city. 

Narrow Gauge — The first narrow 
gauge railroad in Colorado, was organized 
by the writer, and incorporated January 
30, 1868. It was called: "TneArapaho, 
Jefferson & South Park railroad." When 
this road was incorporated, there was not 
a foot of railroad track in Colorado, and 
not a shovel-full of dirt had been moved to 
construct one. The nearest lumber had to 
be hauled on wagons, from 35 to 60 miles, 
and sold in Denver, from $50 to ^100 per 
thousand feet. Wood had to be hauled 
over 25 miles, and at times sold as high as 
$80 per cord. Coal was hauled from 15 to 
23 miles, and sold from $12 to $30 per ton. 

Just previous to the organization of the 
above company, the Denver Pacific Rail- 
road Co., had secured the bonds of 
Arapaho county to the amount of $500,000, 
in aid of_ their road, and were advertising 



for bids for 200,000 ties, and the Kansas 
Pacific Company — claiming all timber 
within twenty-five miles of their line — had 
warned all persons against cutting ties 
within that limit, under penalty of the 
law. 

To build this " baby road " to the timber 
region, beyond the prescribed limits, 
and put in the 200,000 ties for the Denver 
Pacific, was the incentive which prompted 
the writer in attempting to build the Ara- 
paho, Jefferson & South Park railroad. 

The route was westward from Denver 
via Mt. Vernon Canyon, to B-rgin town- 
ship, 30 miles distant. The route was 
duly surveyed and found satisfactory ; the 
money and labor necessary was ready to 
complete the road in 90 days — conditional, 
however, on securing the tie contract. The 
ties could be purchased at the end of the 
road in the mountains, for 15 cents each 
with all down grade to Denver. 

Then it v, as that a bid was handed to the 
President of the " D. P.," offering to put in 
200,000 ties for 50 cents each. This bid was 
immediatelv taken to Omaha, and the con- 
tract given to two of her citizens, at a price 
considerably more than double the amount 
for which the narrow gauge company of- 
fered to contract. 

On the return of the official from Omaha, 
the writer was told by the then President of 
the Board of Trade, and a "director" of 
the Denver Pacific : "Crofutt, your bid was 
too low; if you had bid higher — at a price 
high enough for us all to make something 
— you could have had the contract." We 
immediately wilted. Previous to that time, 
we would have made an affidavit that 
every man, woman and child in Colorado 
was honest, and all working together for 
the common good. 

Well, time" passed, our child died, the 
" boy " fled the country, and only after ten 
years, returns to record a little of the 
early history of " narrow gauge " in Col- 
orado. 

Earlier History— The first settlement 
where Denver now stands, was made Nov. 
1st, 1858. Aurari, now West Denver, was 
laid out and named on the 4th, and on the 
6th, there being 200 people present, an 
election was held, and H. J. Graham was 
elected a delegate to Congress, and in- 
structed to get the "Pike's Peak gold 
mines " set apart from Kansas as a separate 
Territory. On the 8th, Mr. Graham 
started for Washington on horseback. In 
December following, the town of St. 



66 



croftjtt's new overland tourist. 



Charles was laid out, where East Denver 
now stands. 

In the following spring, the town was 
sold, and the purchasers named the place 
Denver. On the 21st of April, 1859, the 
first printing press arrived in Aurari, and 
in 27 hours "from its arrival, the first copy 
of the Rocky Mountain News was issued, 
with Wm. N. Byers and Thomas Gibson 
as editors and proprietors. 

May 7th, 1859, two " Pike's Peak " ex- 
press coaches arrived, 19 days from Leav- 
enworth 

In July, 1860, the U. S. postoffice was 
first opened in Denver, previous to which 
it cost 25 cents to $1.00 for each letter be- 
sides the U. S. postage, according to the 
amount of competition. Now, how changed ! 

Railroads — The following roads have 
their termini in Denver : The Kansas Pa- 
cific, Denver Pacific, Colorado Central, 
Denver, South Park & Pacific, and the Den- 
ver & Rio Grande 

The Kansas Pacific Railway — was 
completed from the Missouri River in the 
fall of 1870, and. trains run regularly. In 
the summer of 1878, the management 
passed into the hands of the Union Pa- 
cific Pool. The depot is on the east side 
of the Platte River, on die bottom land, a 
half mile north of the city, where is also 
the depot of the Denver Pacific and the 
Denver & Rio Grande. 

From Denver, the course of the K. P 
trains is down the Platte, along the table 
land for a few miles, and then turns to the 
eastward, passing for 250 miles over a high 
" rolling prairie " adapted wholly to 
grazing purposes, except in small places 
where the road crosses Kiowa, Wolf, and 



pany's depot in West Denver, from which 
we run along through the city, pass the 
site of Camp Wardwell, on the left, and 
cross the Platte River three miles from our 
starting point. The road continues along 
up the west bank of the Platte, crossing- 
Bear Creek near its mouth, and reaches the 
entrance to Platte Canyon, in 18 miles. 

The grade to where the road enters the 
mountains is light, but for the next forty 
miles it is, in places 170 feet to the mile. 

After reaching the mouth of the canyon, 
the road turns west, crosses and re-crosses 
the river many times while ascending the 
narrow gorge between towering mountains, 
in places 2,0^)0 feet in height, and almost 
overhanging the road. In places these 
mountains are sloping and covered with 
pine, spruce, and cedar trees, with shrubs, 
moss, ferns, and countless flowers, clinging 
to, and growing from every nook and crev- 
ice, presenting a very beautiful appearance. 
A few more revolutions of the wheels and 
the walls rise nearly perpendicular from 
one to two thousand feet from the road-bed, 
bare and grand in their rugged outline. 
Again, onward a few more' miles, and the 
mountain sides slope away and are finally 
lost in meadow-land on either hand, with 
timber covered mountains looming up in 
the distance, ahead, and to the right and 
left of the road. 

The scenery along the line is very 
changeable, and very interesting, some 
places exceedingly grand and beautiful. 
There are several saw-mills along the road, 
and timber within easy distance of them 
in great abundance. At this time, April, 
1879,this road appears to be fully occupied. 

Webster — is the end of the track, 70 



Comanche creeks, and the branches of miles from Denver. It is a few miles east 



Bijou Creek and in Bijou Basin; and as a 
stock country, a greater portion of this re 
gion has no superior. 
Denver, South Park & P. R, 

Hon. John Evans President 

C . W. Fishee Gen. Supt 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge 
organized under the general incorporation 
laws of Colorado, The line was surveyed 
in 1874, and in the spring of 1875 the road 
was completed to Platte Canyon, 18 miles, 
with a branch to Morrisons, 16 miles. 

Come along and let us take a run over 
the route. The cars start from the C. C. 
Depot, where we arrived. From the de- 
pot, our route is South, crossing the sandy 
bed of Cherry Creek on a long bridge, 
soon after starting;, and come to the com- 



of the " Kenosha Hills," over which the 
company are grading their track, by a zig 
zag route to gain elevation, and enable 
them to reach the South Park, ten miles 
distant. Once in the Park, the labor of 
grading is very light, and we understand 
it is the design of the company to push the 
building of their road vigorously, toward 
the great ^ilver regions to the westward, of 
which, Leadville is the recognized center. 
At this time, the greater portion of travel 
from Denver for the South Park, Fairplay, 
and Leadville take this route. The dis- 
tance to Leadville is about 65 miles, but a 
new wagon road is soon to be opened, re- 
ducing the distance to about 45 miles. 
Four and six horse coaches leave Webster 
on arrival of the cars. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



The new El Dorado of Colorado — reputed 
to be the richest mining district in the world 
— where the mineral deposits are enor- 
mous, the belt extending over an area of 
GO miles in length by ten in width — is 
known as Leadville, on the site of Califor- 
nia Gulch, of 1859. It is situated on the 
west side of the "Snowy Range," about 
110 miles south of west from the city of 
Denver. 

Twenty years ago California Gulch be 
came famous for its rich placer mines of 
gold, over $3,000,000 having been washed 
out from 1859 to 1864, after which time 
they were abandoned as having been 
worked out. 

The existence of carbonate ore in great 
quantities, was known to the early gold 
miners in this region, but they did not 
know what it contained, and not one of 
them appears Lo have had a suspicion that 
it contained silver. Consequently, when 
the "durned stuff" came in their way it 
was thrown aside as a worthless nuisance. 
These carbonate deposits are from two to 
thirty feet in thickness, and yield from $12 
to $1,800 per ton in silver, and from ten to 
sixty per cent in lead 

Leadville has a city organization and a 
full compliment of officers, courts, etc. ; 
three daily newspapers; churches and 
schools are being built ; gas, street railway, 
and water-works companies have been or- 
ganized ; hotels, stores of all kinds, a the- 
ater, and in fact all the " modern improve- 
ments," and the usual accompaniments of 
a "red hot " new mining town can be found 
at Leadville. The city is very orderly and 
well-governed. Population at this time, 
April 1879, is full 10,000, with a daily arri- 
val of from 100 to 300 per day. 

There are five smelting works located at 
Leadville, which, with the ore shipments 
for the year 1878, yielded over $2,000,000. 
When we remember that nearly all the 
mines worked at this place have been dis- 
covered and opened within the past year, 
and that many of the smelters were not 
built or running until the last of the year, 
the product is really astonishing, and may 
well account for the great rush of people to 
this wonderful mineral region. The mines 
of the Leadville carbonate district are too 
numerous to mention. Over thirty are re- 
ported to be paying, and many of them 
enormously. Among them are the Little 
Pittsburg Consolidated, Little Chief, Vul- 
ture, Triangle, Carboniferous, Chrysolite, 



locality, of some hundred acres, is underlaid 
with a body of ore and dirt of from one to 
forty feet in thickness, and generally yields 
from $100 to $150 per ton. 

The yield of precious metals in Colorado 
for 1878 was $9,820,743. 

Returning to Denver, we start for the 
South. 

Denver & Rio Grande R. R.— 

This enterprise is the "pioneer, three-foot, 
narrow gauge freight and passenger rail- 
road of the world." Its objective point is 
El Paso and the " City of the Montezumas " 
— Mexico. 

Is the time far distant when the tourits 
will hear, on approaching the depot in 
Denver, "All aboard for Santa Fe, City of 
Mexico, Panama, and Cape Horn ? " Quien 
Saber 

The work of gradinsr commenced in 
March, 1871, and the firsUrain reached Col- 
orado Springs October 27th, of the same 
year; distance, 76 miles. June 15th, 1872, 
the road was completed to Pueblo, 44 miles 
further. The branch to Canyon City— 40 
miles— was completed in July, 1874, and 
the main line to El Moro, 86 miles south 
of Pueblo, in April, 1876. Work was com- 
menced in Ma}', 1876, on the line from 
Cucharas— over the Sangre de Christo 
Mountains, via Veta Pass, to Garland— 220 
miles from Denver— and completed Au- 
gust 6th, 1877. In 1878 the road was ex- 
tended 36 miles to Alamosa on the Rio 
Grande River, making the total milage of 
the road and branches, 333 miles. 

In the summer of 1878 this road passed 
into the hands of the Atchison, Topeka & 
Santa Fe Railroad Company under a lease 
for thirty years, and it is now known 
as the 

Rio Grande Division 



of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, with 
W. W. Borst as Supt. But we must away. 
The traveler making the first trip on a 
narrow-gauge road, will be surprised to 
find how comfortable the cars are, and 
how smoothly they ride. 

Leaving Denver, the cars run along 
through the western edge of the city, cross 
Cherry Creek, which rises in the Arkansas 
Divide, 50 miles to the south, and canyons 
through Plum Creek Divide, 40 miles 
above the city. The road passing the com- 
pany's machine shops 2 2-10 miles distant 
on the right. 
Kit Carson, and others, on Fryer Hill. Thisl The grand old mountain range looms up 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



in the distance on our right ; the Platte 
River is, in places, close on the same side, 
while between the river and the moun- 
tains lies a stretch of fourteen miles of as 
beautiful rolling prairie land as one could 
wish to see. 

Four miles from Denver we pass the pi- 
oneer ranche of the country, on the right. 
The land which it embraces was taken up 
in the spring of 1859, by Mr. Rufus Clark, 
who is commonly called by all old settlers 
"Potato Clark," from the fact that Mr. 
Clark was the first person in the country 
to raise a crop of potatoes. Having sold 
most of the crop at prices ranging from 20 
to 35 cents per pound, after having cut off 
and saved the seed end of each to plant the 
next season, he come to make the potato 
crop a specialty, to a great extent, and in 
the years from 1860 to 1865, often had 250 
acres of potatoes, which yielded enor- 
mously. 

Mr. Clark is a man who always buys for 
cash, and sells for the best price the market 
will afford, and although he has often been 
called close in exacting his due, no person 
ever questioned his sterling integrity. 

It was along the river, just above, where 
gold was first discovered on the Platte in 
1859, but the "diggings" were not profitable 
and were abandoned. 

About one mile further, Bear Creek 
comes into the Platte, on the west side, its 
junction being marked by trees, houses and 
well-cultivated fields. Eight miles from 
Denver, we pass 

Petersburg — an unimportant side- 
track, and two miles further come to 

Littleton — This station is composed of 
a dozen or more buildings, surrounded by 
some fine farms and farm nouses ; most of 
the latter are painted white, and the flow- 
ers and shrubbery surrounding them look 
as though there was a woman in the family. 

Passing on, the bluffs and ravines seem 
gradually to close in on our left, and we 
roll through numerous cuts, cross the canal 
that supplies Denver with water, pass 

Acequa — a side-track, and then 

Plum — another station only in name, 
opposite Platte Canyon. 

Our course is now to the southeast — up 
Plum Creek — which we shall follow for 
25 miles. This is a rough and very little 
cultivated, ragged country, but well 
adapted to stock-raising, many vast herds 
of cattle appearing thereon. 

A few miles further, we pass, on the 
right, the site of the old Fisher mill of 



I860. Opposite this mill, comes down the 
old Plum Creek Divide wagon-road, which 
left the railroad six miles south of Denver 
on the Platte, turning up over the ridge, 
via the "Pretty Woman's Ranche," of 
1860-3, situated at a spring on the southern 
slope of the Divide, five miles distant. 

Continuing along, we pass, on the right, 
Fisher Ranche, and then come to 

Castle Rock Station— 32 8-10 miles 
from Denver, so named for a huge castella- 
ted rock that stands away up on the apex 
of a spur of the Divide, that here projects 
out into the valley, as though to bar our 



Ji 



t Castle Rock there is a settlement 
of about 50 people. Some of the bot- 
tom land along the creek is cultivated, 
and some to the eastward, up a little valley, 
but the greater portion depend upon stock 
raising. The road from this station turns 
to the south 2 6-10 miles to 

Douglass — a side-track, and a rugged 
country, with very little land fit for cultiva- 
ting, then 3 2-10 miles to 

Glade — another side-track. It is 3 9-10 
miles from here to 

Huntsville — This station was named 
after Ex-Governor Hunt, of Colorado, one 
of the earliest promoters of the road. 

In rolling along up the valley we have 
passed the " Old Mother Coberly Ranche," 
on the opposite side of the valley. A short 
distance further, the site of an old saw- 
mill appears, and a little further, near this 
station the old "Block House," built in 
June, 1874, for protection against the 
Indians. At that time about 60 people 
lived near by, engaged in lumbering and 
freighting. 

Ivan Cracken, the first country residence 
of the writer, in 1860, is situated due east 
from this station, four miles distant, at the 
head of Cherry Creek Canyon. This domi- 
cile w r as constructed at the time " the rocks 
were rent," and it is thought there has 
been little change in the premises during 
the last 1800 years. 

From our last station the country has 
been very bluffy ; on the left coverecl with 
some pine and scrub oak trees. Eight 
miles further brings us to 

Larkspur — but we will not see the 
" lark " or the " spur," unless the latter is 
a "cowboy," and the "cattle on a thousand 
hills," are larks; but one thing is certain, 
when the cattle get on a lark it requires a 
great deal of spur to overtake them. 

We are now opposite Irving Valley, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



69 



three miles distant to the eastward, on the 
headwaters of Cherry Creek. This is a 
lovely little valley about six miles long, 
and a half-mile wide, first settled in 18(50, 
completely over-run by Indians in 18G4, 
and some of the settlers killed ; and was 
raided by Indians, at various times since, 
until 1870. 

Our train is now climbing the Divide, 
on a heavy grade ; the air is pure and clear, 
the country is rough and broken, with 
here and there a little opening ; the huge 
mountains rise high on the right, but their 
base is five miles away, and the long 
timber-marked water-shed that divides the 
waters of the Platte from the Arkansas 
Valley, stretches away to the east, and is 
lost in the distance, extending 100 miles. 

The next station — on paper — is 3 8-10 
miles further on, and is called 

Greenland — but trains seldom stop here. 
A side-track is its chief feature of civiliza- 
tion, but 5 3-8 miles further we arrive at the 

Divide — Here is a postoffice, called 
Weissport. A few miles before reaching 
the station, on the rirht, can be seen a long, 
rocky, castellated ridge, like which, many 
are to be seen along the eastern base of 
the Rocky Mountains. 

Before reaching the station, when looking 
ahead, the prospect of getting beyond the 
mountain ridge, which rises up, as though 
to bar our progress, is hopeless — appar- 
ently — but remembering that it was this 
company that built their road over the 
Sangre de Christo Mountains, we are con- 
vinced that with them., "all things are 
possible" (in railroad building). In proof 
of this we climb to the Divide, turn to 
the left, from a sharp mountain spur ; and 
roll down toward the great Arkansas 
Valley. 

Our course is now more to the eastward, 
with the Valley of Monument and Mon- 
ument Creek on the right, and ahead — al- 
most at our feet — Pike's Peak. 

Monument — is the next station, 5 3-10 
miles from the Divide. The mountains, 
far to the right, show croppings of red 
sandstone, rising slab-li*ke from its side 
several hundred feet in height. 

At Monument there is quite a settlement 
of agriculturists, stock, and lumbermen. 
The village is near the site of the " Dirty 
Woman's Ranche," of 1860. 

Downward rolls our train 2 4-10 miles to 

Borst's — named for the superintendent 
of the road. Trains' stop on signal. Cattle 
ranges appear; long timber ridges are 



seen on the left, the same above noted. It 
is 3 6-10 miles more to 

Husteds — another signal station. 

Passing on through a timbered and 
rugged country, bluffy and wild, crossing 
Monument Creek several times in five 
miles, and we come to 

Edgerton — where are piles of lumber, 
indicating saw mills near. 

Continuing down the creek, cattle and 
sheep are numerous, and a few fields and 
gardens appear. Occasionally on the right 
we catch a glimpse of some of those pe- 
culiar rocks, which rise up in places, in 
this vicinity, on the sides of the hills, to 
the height of from 20 to 50 feet. These 
are round, and from 3 to 10 feet in diame- 
ter, surmounted with a cap, in one case 
resembling a Spanish sombrero. They are 
called by various names, but by the gen- 
eral name of " Monuments," from which 
this valley and creek derive their names. 

From Edgerton, it is 8 2-10 miles to 

Colorado Springs— and 76 miles from 
Denver. This city was laid out in July, 
1871, and settled by the Fountain Colony. 
It is situated on a high, broad plateau, to 
the east of, and about one-half mile 
above the junction of Monument Creek 
from the north, with the Fountain Qui 
Bouille, from the west. This thriving 
place is the county seat of El Paso county, 
and contains — the city proper — a popula- 
tion of about 2,500, with three miles sur- 
roundings, giving about 3,500. 

The citizens have erected some fine 
buildings, which include a college, 
churches, banks, schools, hotels, and 
many private residences. The streets 
are 100 feet broad, and the avenues 150 
feet in width, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. 
Along the avenues rows of trees have been 
set out near the sidewalks, and little 
streams of water are rippling along beside 
them, from the large canals built by the 
citizens for irrigating purposes. 

There are several hotels in the city, chief 
of which are the Crawford and the Colo- 
rado Springs Hotel. Two papers, the 
Gazette and the Mountaineer, greet the citi- 
zens weekly. The principal mercantile 
business of the city is with the mining 
region of the South Park and San Juan 
country, via the Ute Pass wagon-road, 
which leaves the city for the West, and 
proceeds up Fountain Creek and over the 
mountains to the north and west of Pike's 
Peak. 

Colorado Springs has become quite 



70 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



noted as a tourist's resort. The fine ac- 
commodations, magnificent mountain 
views, the soda springs, the Garden of 
the Gods, the petrified stumps, the monu- 
ment towers, and the ramble around and up 
the mountains— even to the summit of the 
towering old Pike's Peak, with an altitude 
of over 14,000 feet— all this unsurpassed 
scenery can be viewed, and visited with 
convenience from the hotel, as carriages 
are run at stated intervals to Manitou, and 
other points. We will step in to one and 
note what can be seen. 

Colorado City — is situated two miles 
west, over a fine road, at the base of Pike's 
Peak. It was the first settlement in the 
" Pike's Peak gold mines," in 1858. AJ; 
one time it had a population of 300, 
now 100. 

The Fountain Qui Bouille, a small 
stream formed from springs and melted 
snows around the base and upon the sum- 
mits of the mountain, supplies the town 
with water, and is also used for irrigating 
purposes, for many miles below. 

Garden op the Gods — A bout two miles 
west is a singularly wild and beautiful 
place, to which some poetic individual has 
given the title which heads this paragraph. 
Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicu- 
larly from the valley to a height of 200 feet 
or more, but a few yards apart, forming a 
lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful 
miniature valley, which seems to nestle 
here away from the gaze of the passer-by 
in quiet romantic grandeur. For illustra- 
tion, see Annex No. 14. 

Manitou— elevation, 6,321 feet. These 
famous springs are situated five miles 
west of Colorado Springs, the city, at the 
very foot of Pike's Peak, on the north 
side, in as romantic a little nook as one 
can conceive. They are six in number, 
named: Manitou, Navajo, Ute-Sod a, Sho- 
shone, Iron Ute, and Little Chief. Prof. 
Loew, of Lieut. "Wheeler's exploring ex- 
pedition, gives the analyses of the different 
springs as follows: 



UOH 


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These springs are highly recommended 
for their medicinal qualities. The early 
emigrants of 1859-60 often used the waters 
of the Navajoe Spring for making bread; 
by the addition of a little acid it makes a 
very fine article. 

Manitou — in the summer, is a busy 
town, of 1,000 or more people — all bent on 




first steam railroad train in America — See Annex No. 7. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



71 



enjoyment. Fountain Creek ripples 
through the place, along the banks of 
which are many trees — cottonwood, pine, 
cedar and willow. Cosey little cottages 
peep out here and there from among the 
trees, rocks, and gulches, as though afraid 
their secluded retreat would be discovered. 

There are three large hotels at Manitou 
— besides several small ones. The Beebe 
can accommodate 200 guests; the Cliff, 
100; while the Manitou House — open sum- 
mer and winter, and the pleasantest in 
point of location — has ample accommo- 
dations for full 250 guests. 

From Manitou, the distance to the fol- 
lowing places are : Garden of the Gods, 
3 1-2 miles ; Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canyon, 
to Devil's Punch-Bowl, 5 1-2 miles ; to 
Cheyenne Canyon and Seven Falls, ten 
miles; Summit of Pike's Peak, nearest 
trail, ten miles ; Monument Park, with 
Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vul- 
can's Workshop and Dunce's Parliament, 
ten miles; Ruxton's Glen, Iron Spring 
and Ute Pass, 1 1-2 miles ; to Billy Goat 
Canyon the distance is 1 1-2 miles. 

Those who wish to hunt game as is game, 
will find that their hearts' fondest desire 
in that direction, can be 
gratified in this region, 
tied in this region. 

We now return to 
the railroad at Colo- 
rado Springs, and pro- 
ceedto the south. Half- 
-a-mile south w r e come 
to Fountain Qui Bouil- 
le Creek, where our 
course changes to the 
eastward, and follows 
along down its north- 
ern bank. In places 
the bluffs are close on 
our left — and then some 
well - cultivated fields 
appear on either hand. 

The old Military 
wagon road — via Jim's 
Camp — Squirrel Creek 
Divide, Russellville on 
Cherry Creek, to Den- 
ver — branches off to 
the north just before 
reaching the next sta- 
tion. 

Widefield — 8 8-10 
miles from Colorado 
Springs. The fields 
here are wider than devil's 



we have seen before, and better fenced, 
some with wire. Passing on 4 (i-10 miles, 
we come to 

Fountain — here the sage and brush 
land shows the effects of irrigation. The 
town is a few hundred yards To our right, 
contains about 30 placts of business and 
residences, situated on an elevated table- 
land, most of wdiich is under cultivation. 

Between the railroad and the mountains 
on the west, is spread out as fine a grazing 
section of land as there is in the State, ex- 
tending southward 100 miles along the 
eastern base of the mountains, and from five 
to 15 miles in width. The old w r agon road 
from Colorado City runs along the foot of 
these mountains to Canyon City, 25 miles 
distant 

Continuing down, the sand- bluffs close 
in on the left, and our train rolls dow T n 
on to the creek bottom, where the cotton- 
woods and willows are very dense, and 
after crossing the creek, we stop at 

Little Buttes — Near this station, Lit- 
tle Fountain Creek comes in from the 
west, upon which is some fine farming 
land, which produced abundant crops — 
never failing a crop. 




GATE, WEBER CANYON, U. P R. R, 



72 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



The country for the next twenty miles 
is not much improved, as it cannot be de- 
pended upon for crops without irrigating 
them, and as water is not to be had, unless 
wells are dug and wind mills used for ele- 
vating the water, it will doubtless remain 
as it is — a stock range. 

From Little Buttes, it is 11 5-10 miles to 

Pinon— a side-track, and 11 7-10 miles 
further to 

North Pueblo — but passenger trains 
seldom stop, as the town lays nearer South 
Pueblo station than the one bearing its 
name. 

On the east side of the Fountain is situ- 
ated East Pueblo, reached by a bridge on 
our left. 

From North Pueblo station, our route is 
along the creek, through deep cuts made 
through a round butte, that seems to rise 
up in our way, cross the track of the Atch- 
ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Kailroad, and the 
Arkansas River, and a run from the last 
station ot 2 5-10 miles brings the train to 

South Pueblo — This is a regular eating 
station, where a full meal can be had for 
75 cents. 

As North Pueblo and South Pueblo are 
really one city, separated only by the Ar- 
kansas River, we shall speak of them as 

Pueblo — This city is located in the rich 
Arkansas valley, on the Arkansas River, 
near its junction with the Fountain Qui 
Bouille, and contains about 4,000 inhabi- 
tants. It is the county seat of Pueblo 
county, and besides the Denver & Rio 
Grande, is connected by rail with Canyon 
City, 40 miles to the west, up the Arkansas 
River, and all the Eastern world, via Atch- 
ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, down 
the Arkansas. 

The county buildings are the best in the 
State ; the schools are good ; church ac- 
commodations ample. Pueblo has four 
banks, smelting works, a planing mill, 
rolling mill, foundry and machine shop, 
two flouring mills, several hotels, and one 
daily newspaper — the Chieftain. 

The business of the city is, to a great ex- 
tent, connected with the mining business to 
the west and south — San Juan, South Park 
and the Cimerron regions. Agriculture — 
along the Arkansas River and the adjacent 
streams — is very profitable, as the yield per 
acre of all kinds of small grains and veg- 
etables, is abundant ; but above all others, 
stock raising is the most extensive. As a 
range for cattle and sheep, Pueblo and the 
adjoining counties, with the mild winters, 



light snow fall, and rich and nutritious 
bunch grass are considered, — par ex- 
cellent. 

The fine water-power available, and these 
broad, fertile plains and productive up- 
lands, on which roam so many thousand 
sheep, point to the probable fact that 
woolen manufactories will soon be estab- 
lished here. There is certainly a fine op- 
portunity and a home market. 



The Arkansas Valley Division of the 
Denver and Rio Grande railroad, runs 
from South Pueblo, along up on the south 
side of the Arkansas River, where the 
country traversed is almost wholly given 
up to grazing purposes. The stations, and 
distances between them, are: Goodnight, 
4 4-10 miles from Pueblo; Meadows, 4 
6-10 miles further; Swallows, five miles; 
Carlisle Springs, 6 5-10 miles ; Beaver Creek, 
2 7-10 miles; Laban, 9 2-10 miles; and 
Coal Junction, 6-10 miles further ; making 
33 miles from South Pueblo. From the 

Coal Junction — a track branches off 
to the coal banks, two miles distant, while 
the main track continues on 7 5-10 miles 
further to 

Canyon City — 403^ miles from Pueblo. 
This city is the county seat of Fremont 
county, situated at the very gate of the 
mountains, in a lovely and productive little 
valley, and possesses some of the most at- 
tractive scenery in Colorado. From (Jan- 
yon, it is about 12 miles to the " Grand 
Canyon of the Arkansas," the towering 
walls of which rise in places perpendicular, 
2,000 feet, between which runs the Arkan- 
sas River. Here is a grand view, that can 
be reached from the city, over a good 
wagon road, through some magnificent 
changing scenery. Canyon, not to be out- 
done, has secured a first-class hot spring, 
which has been "picketed out," about 
one mile from the city. The baths are 
excellent. 

The first settlement was made at Canyon 
City, in the summer of 1859, and in 1860-1 
some good stone buildings were erected, 
and a great amount of freight from the 
Missouri River, destined for Tarryall, Cali- 
fornia Gulch and the Blue, came up the 
Arkansas route, and went into the moun- 
tains, via Canyon City. Then it was that 
prospects were bright for a big city at 
Canyon, and corner lots advanced, but the 
mines — being all "placer mines" at that 
time — became worked out, and Canyon 
declined. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



7?, 




INTERIOR VIEW OF SNOW SHEDS ON THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS 

("Seepage 172.) 



Since the discovery of the San Juan 
country the city has taken a step ahead, 
and is now provided with banks, many 
large stores, churches, schools hotels, and 
sundry other accomplishments, including 
the State Penitentiary, and two weekly 
newspapers — the Times and the Avalanche. 

Stages leave Canyon City daily for Lead- 
ville, distant 116 miles; but the railroad 
will soon be extended, shortening the dis- 
tance by stage. — See Annex, No. 61. 

Returning to Pueblo, we are again off 
for the south. 

Gradually we rise up out of the rirer 
bottom, and shape our course for the Span- 
ish Peaks, which we can see while 70 
miles away. 

San Carlos — is the first station on the 
bills, but they all " pass it " and make for 
the 

Greenhorn — The- first named is nine 
miles from Pueblo, and the second is 4 5-10 
further. St. Charles Creek has been 



crossed, also a broad prairie on which 
graze thousands of cattle and sheep. 

The timbered country of the Greenhorn 
River is on the right, and soon our train 
crosses the river and stops at 

Salt Creek — a side-track. To the 
right are some bold, high buttes ; the high- 
est is called " Chinese Butte." Six miles 
further is the small side-track called 

Graneros— but we do not stop. 

Between our train and the mountains 
can be seen the great valley of the Green- 
horn, with the mountains of the same 
name rising from its western border. The 
next station is ten miles distant, and is 
called 

Huerfano — (pronounced Warf-a-no) 
This station is in the midst of the best 
grazing lands of Southern Colorado. 
Leaving the station, we cross the river, and 
cross a high, undulating prairie— bluffy in 
places — for 13 miles to 

Cucharas— (pronounced Q-charr-us) 



74 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



This station is the junction of the El Moro 
Branch, 49 miles south of Pueblo, 169 
miles from Denver, 37 miles from El 
Moro and 100 miles from Garland. 

Let us now "change cars" and, while 
taking a run, note the results. 

Crossing the Cucharaa River, and on, 
over a broad prairie — with the Spanish 
Peaks on our right — 10 6-10 miles bring 
us to 

Santa Clara — on the creek of that 
name. Just 9 4-10 miles further is 

Apishapa — a small side-track on the 
river of the same name. Then, over a 
broad plain, 9 4-10 miles, is 

Chicosa — and 7 3-10 miles more bring 
us to 

El Moro— the end of the track. This 
place is one destined to be a point of great 
importance. It is situated on a plain near 
the eastern base of the Raton Mountains, 
and although the town was laid out in the 
spring of 1876, it now has a population of 
over 900, and is doing a large and rapidly 
increasing business. The forwarding of 
goods for the southern country is one that 
centers a large amount of business at this 
now town ; and stores, hotels, restaurants 
and shops of all kinds are springing up 
daily. A bank has been established, and a 
newspaper soon will be. 

Near the town is located extensive coal 
mines. On? vein that is now being 
worked is a horizontal 14-foot vein, so situ- 
ated that cars are run to the mouth of the 
mine and the coal is dumped, by a shute, 
into the cars. One great feature of this 
coal is its adaptability for coking. 

The railroad hauled away from El Moro 
during the year 1877, 700 tons of coke ; 
some was shipped as far as Salt Lake City, 
to be used in the smelting of ores, but the 
greater portion was taken to the furnaces 
at Black Hawk, Golden and Boulder. 

There are now in operation 32 coking 
ovens — and still the demand exceeds the 
supply. 

Prof. Gardner, of the U. S. Geological 
Survey, made a number of careful experi- 
ments with this coal in 1875, and as a re- 
sult of his tests in reverberatory furnaces, 
he says : 

" In a few minutes both furnaces were en- 
veloped in a sheet of burning gases, that 
went roaring up the flues. Heat became 
so intense that the ores had to be pulled 
back to the chimneys, for that left near the 
bridge melted down and ran like water. 
The flame and great heating power were 



now too evident to be mistaken." 

El Moro is 86 miles from Pueblo, 206 
miles from Denver, five miles north of 
Trinidad, 65 miles to Cimerron, 105 
miles to Fort Union, 150 miles to Las 
Vegas, and 205 mdes to Santa Fe. Stages 
run daily to the last four named places ; 
fare averages 15 cents per mile. 

Trinidad — the county seat of Las Ani- 
mas county — is five miles south of El 
Moro, and is an old settled place; the 
greater proportion of the people are of 
Spanish or Mexican descent; stock rais- 
ing is the principal source of income. 
Coal mines are extensive— but until a rail- 
road is built to the town the demand can- 
not extend beyond home consumption. 

Returning to Cucharas, "change cars," 
and w T e are off again — this time up the 
west bank of Chucharas River. 

Walsens — is the first station — 6 7-10 
miles from Cuchara<*. It is tastefully laid 
out — having been settled by a colony of 
Germans, who are engaged in agriculture 
and stock raising. From this the grade 
will be heavy, until we reach the summit 
of the mountain. 

In passing along up the creek, it w r ill 
be observed that all the settlers are Mex- 
icans or Spanish, and they observe all the 
old customs of Spanish couniries, particu- 
larly in their cultivation of the soil. They 
ignore the usual implements of husbandry 
to a great extent. They tickle the ground 
with a wooden plow ; cut their grain with 
hand knives; thrash it out with goats, 
clean in the wind by dropping it to the 
ground from an elevated position when 
the wind is blowing. Then when the 
grain is gathered and cleaned it is pounded 
to a powder between large flat stones. 
Goats and sheep are their stock in trade. 
Their houses are of adobe, or, at best, logs 
— and the number of children is only 
equaled by the number of dogs ; but all 
seem happy, and we are inclined to say 
with the poet : 

" Rustic ease and true content 
Are in this valley sweetly blent — 
And comfort smiles, and plenty reigns; 
Here peace has undisturbed domains; 
And here a rural, peaceful race 
Has found a fair abiding place; 
Its homes and plazas, simple, rude, 
The walls of stately pine trees hewed, 
Or rough adobes, crude'y piled, 
The roofs with " dirt" t-ecurely tiled, 
Are primitive, and ccol and warm, 
Secure against the winter's storm, 
And 'gainst the sun's devouring rays 
When with the summer's heat ablaze." 

{There, that is the first poetry we ever 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



quoted, and if the 
reader will excuse 
us this time, we will 
pledge never to be 
caught doiug so 
again.] 

Wahatoya — is _ 
the next station, g 
and a very appro- g 
priate one it is. It 
is 6 9-10 miles 
south of Walsens. 
To the . left, after 
leaving the station, 
a beautiful view 
can be had of the 
Spanish Peaks. The 
altitude of the east 
peak "is 12,720 feet; 
that of the west peak 
is 13,620 feet.. Con- 
tinuing a little far- 
ther, we have a line 
view of Veta and 
the Sangre de Chris- 
to Mountains on the 
right. From the 
last station it is 
8 2-10 miles to 
La Veta— The first 
settler in this sec- 




OVERLAND PONY EXPRESS — SEE ANNEX NO. *I. 



tion of country was Col. Francisco, a Span- 
ish gentleman who came to La Veta 19 
years ago, and built the house that he 
now lives in. 

La Veta is situated at an elevation of 
6,970 feet, on the south branch of Cuchara 
Creek, at the northern base of the moun- 
tains, with the Spanish or "Twin Peaks" 
as immediate back-ground. The popula- 
tion is about 300. It boasts of some good 
buildings — a postoffice, a grist mill, and, 
if reports are true, good prospects for the 
future, as well as gr»at present expecta- 
tions. 

It is reported that a silver mine has 
been discovered near, producing ore that 
mills $118 per ton; 100 claims have been 
staked; copper is also a late discovery, and 
coal seven miles west, on Middle Creek, 
and "White Sulphur Springs, five miles 
south. 

At La Veta all extra cars are left behind, 
an extra locomotive is added, and the 
train starts out on an average grade of 2 1 1 
feet to the mile, for 21 1-2 miles- In some 
places the grade is much higher, but the 
passenger need not fear, as the road is well 
built, the ties are close together and double 



spiked — the engines and cars first-class, 
while the road-bed is blasted from the 
mountain side, making it as solid as the 
everlasting hills upon which it rests. 

Leaving La Veta, our course is almost 
due west, winding up Middle Creek, and 
then on to a high plateau and up Veta 
Creek. 

As the train leaves the station at La 
Veta, the old Sangre de Christo wagon road, 
— stage road — can be seen on the left, 
where it winds around the side of the 
mountain. Continuing on up the creek, 
eight miles from the station, we arrive at 

Ojo— At this side-track, by looking di- 
rectly ahead, away up on the. top of a round 
flat-topped mountain — called "Dump" 
Mountain apparently some great for- 
tress — can be seen a lone tree in the 
center. Now, notice the long reddish 
line encircling that mountain near its top. 
Do you see it? That is our road, and there, 
in front of that low tree, we will be in half 
an hour, looking down at this station. 

Again we proceed. Look! on your 
right, away up — there! That peak is 
Veta Mountain, 11,512 feet above the level 
of the sea. Up ! up we go ! Keep your eye 



76 



ceofutt's new overland tourist 



to the left ! See ! There is the road— can 
we ever get up there ? We are turning. 
The gorge narrows and darkens for 2 8-10 
miles, and we are at the great 

Mule Shoe — We have run up on one 
side of the "shoe," now we will turn to the 
left and roll around the toe of the shoe, and 
around on the other side. Now we look 
down on our left, and the higher we go, 
the grander the view. Onward — upward. 
Ah, we have it! Now look away down 
that little, narrow valley, and see little Ojo 
station, where we stood only a few minutes 
ago, and looked^— looked at the tree first 
— then located our present position. 

Stop a moment and take a look around. 
The illustration on page 47 shows our 
train in Abata Canyon, going up to the 
Mule Shoe from Ojo and then curving 
around and nearing the summit of "Dump" 
Mountain. " Old Veta," just to the north, 
across the chasm, has "come down a peg" 
— is not as high. 

The Spanish Peaks, now look low— " be- 
neath our notice:' Hist! but isn't the air 
pure? Before leaving this point, let us 
take another look around. To the east- 
ward, Ojo ; further, La Veta ; a little to the 
right, the Spanish Peaks ; then a sweep 
around to the left a little, the broad plains, 
stretching away in the dim haze of the dis- 
tance ; to the north, an awful chasm, 740 
feet deep ; then Veta Mountain rises up, 
and bars our vision. To the westward an 
occasional mountain peak peeps out above 
the growth of pines in the foreground, 
while all around us are pine and spruce in 
the ravines, and away up the mountain to 
the " timber line, usually about 10,000 feet, 
above which they stand uncovered, before 
their Maker — except, possibly, by a mantle 
of purity — the frost of winter. 

But we have not had a look to the 
south, and must climb higher, first. 

Our course is now to the right, and fol- 
lows around the mountain to the south — 
up, around the head of a deep ravine, to 
the left ; up again, we curve around the 
head of another, and then another — ever 
upward — but the chasms and ravines are 
decreasing. Another turn, and we are at 
the 

Summit of Veta Pass— 9,339 feet above 
the level of the sea ; 1,097 feet higher than 
any other railroad track in North America 
— the second in height in the world. 

The weight of the engine that hauled 
our train up this mountain is 34 tons. 

This station is situated in a grove of 



timber which obstructs the view, to a 
great extent; but those who have the time 
to stop, could take a walk along the sum- 
rait to the eastward, about one mile, where 
the best view can be obtained . 

The canyon up which our train came, to 
the turn of the Mule Shoe, is called Abata 
Canyon, and the old wagon road which we 
crossed over on a bridge, at the curve, was 
the " Abata & Sangi e de Christo " toll 
road. 

The only building on the Summit is the 
station, which is built of stone. 

Leaving the Summit, our train will de- 
scend on the south for seven miles, on as 
heavy grade as when climbing up the 
northern slope. 

On the route down the mountain to Gar- 
land, 15 miles, there is little of interest. 
There are several saw mills, and timber on 
each side of a long ravine, down which 
our train rolls, passing the following side- 
tracks ; 1 9-10 miles to Sangre de Christo ; 
5 1-10 miles further to Placer ; 3 9-10 
miles more to Wagon Creek ; 3 5-10 addi- 
tional to Garland ; 6 more to Fort Gar- 
land, and 30 miles more to the end of the 
road at 

Alamosa — on the Rio Grande River. 
It is in the center of San Luis Valley, one 
of the best farming sections of the State ; 
has a population of about 1,500, and con- 
trols an extensive trade with the mining 
towns to the north and west, as well as 
with the 1 arming community and those 
engaged in the cattle and sheep raising ; 
the latter class are quite numerous iu this 
section. 

Stages leave daily tor Del Norte, 30 
miles ; Lake City, 120 miles ; fare about 10 
cents a mile. An immense amount of freight 
is shipped on wagons from Alamosa to the 
mining region to the west, north and 
south. _ . 

We will now return to Denver, and take 
our seat in the cars on the 

Denver Pacific Railroad. 

This road, until recently was owned and 
operated by the Kansas Pacific. 

In the fall of 1867, this company 
was organized at Denver City, Colo- 
rado, the object of which was to 
connect the city by rail and telegraph 
lines with the Union Pacific railroad 
at Cheyenne. The distance to be 
overcome was 106 miles, through a coun- 
try possessing no serious obstacles, and 
many favorable inducements to the enter- 
prise. For a part ot the way, the country 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



77 



along and for some distance on either side 
of the line is a rich farming section, the 
remainder of the road being through cele- 
bra'ed grazing lands. The desire to open 
up this rich region, to connect the city of 
Denver with the trans-continental railroad, 
by which to afford a way for cheap and 
fast freight and rapid transit of passengers, 
induced the people of Colorado to take 
hold of the scheme, when proposed, with 
commendable zeal and alacrity. Sub- 
scriptions for about one-fourth the amount 
of money required were made in a few 
days, and the county bonds of Arapaho 
county were almost unanimously voted to 
the amount of $500,000, and work com- 
menced. 

The road was completed to Evans early 
in the fall of 1869, and to Denver the 24th 
day of June, 1870. 

During the spring of 1872, this road was 
sold to the Kansas Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany, [Recently returned to D. P. Co.] 
which enabled that company to control a 
through line from Kansas City, Mo., to 
Cheyenne. Distance, 743 miles, where a 
junction is made with the U. P. R. R. 

Leaving Denver, our course is north- 
ward, along down the east bank of the 
Platte River, for 18 miles, to 

Hughes — The country is almost wholly 
given up to grazing — except on the low 
bottom land, and at such places where 
water can be had for irrigating. 

At Hughes, the Boulder Valley railroad 
— previously alluded to — branches off to 
the westward. 

Johnson — is the next station from 
Hughes, 14 miles distant, and 16 miles far- 
ther brings us to 

Evans — This is the headquarters of the 
St. Louis Western Colony and the New 
England Colony; population about 900. 
The Journal, a weekly paper, is published 
here. Evans is fully provided with churches, 
schools and most of the modern improve, 
ments. 

Soon after leaving Evans we cross the 
Platte River, and four miles farther come to 

Greeley — The county seat of Weld 
county. This town was laid out in 
May, 1870, by the Greeley colony, under 
the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace 
Greeley, of the New York Tribune. The col- 
ony control about 100,000 acres of as fine land 
as can be found in the Territory. Extensive 
irrigating ditches have been "taken out," 
and water from the Cache a la Poudre 
River furnishes ample water for all pur- 



poses. This town has increased rapidly ; 
population nearly 3,000, wiih ample 
churches, hotels, schools, etc. The Gree- 
ley Tribune and the Sun, weeklies, are 
published here. One noted and glorious 
feature of the place is the absence of all 
intoxicating drink. It's tough on the " old 
soakers," who now have to " pack in " 
their "nips " on the sly, or be sick and get 
a doctor to give a prescription ; but it is 
said that Greeley abounds in doctors and 
druggists. 

Leaving Greeley, we cross the valley of 
the Cache a la Poudre and follow up 
Lone Tree Creek, 14 miles, to 

Pierce — situated in the midst of the 
best grazing lands. From here, it is 20 
miles to 

Cass— This is a mere side track, at the 
upper crossing of Lone Tree; then ten 
miles brings us to the 

Summit— a side-track — on the top of 
the ridge, ten miles from Cheyenne — which 
we reach after crossing Crow Creek — a 
distance from Denver to Cheyenne of 106 
miles. 

With this sketch of Colorado, short and 
imperfect, because it is impossible to do 
justice to this country, we take our leave 
of it, and returning to the Pacific railroad, 
start once more for the West. 

Cheyenne — Just in the border of the 
city, we cross Crow Creek, on a Howe 
truss bridge — one of the best on the road. 
We leave the creek and follow up the bed 
of a small dry ravine. About two miles 
from the city — by looking to the right, 
northward — a fine view can be had of Fort 
Davy Russell, previously described. We 
are now ascending the eastern slope of the 
southern range, of the Black Hills of Wy- 
oming, which are stretching away in a long 
rugged line before us. 

Hazard — six miles west of Cheyenne, 
is the first station we reach, and the j unc- 
tion of the Colorado Central railroad. 
The track turns off at the left of the sta- 
tion, and crosses the prairie and hills to the 
southward — as described on our route to 
Colorado. At Hazard, the traveler going 
East, can obtain a view of Cheyenne and 
Fort Davy Russell— the former directly 
ahead, and the latter a little to the left of 
his train. 

Otto— is 8 2-10 miles farther west, where 
passenger trains from the East and West 
usually meet, stop for a few moments, to 
exchange letters and papers, then pass on 



7S 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVEELAND TOUEIST 



—one going East for light, the other West 
for knowledge. 

We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and 
the traveler should note the rapid rise 
made from this point, in surmounting the 
Black Hills. Here the heavy grading 
commences, and snow fences will be nu- 
merous till we get over the " Hills." To 
the north of this place, at the base of the 
Hills, is a fine valley, where Crow Creek 
finds its source in many fine springs. The 
valley contains very superior grazing 
land, and in conjunction with the adja- 
cent hills, affords ample game for the 
hunter. 

Fifteen miles from this station, to the 
north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne 
Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, 
now deserted. Near this fort are the head 
waters of Lodge Pole Creek. 

Oranite Canyon — is five miles west 
of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point 
are extensive stone quarries, whence was 
taken the rock for the company's build- 
ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- 
houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- 
ity, and many kilns have been erected. To 
the left of the road, and down the canyon 
a few hundred yatds, is a fine spring, from 
whence the water is elevated to the tank 
by the roadside. Half a mile to the south 
are a number of fine springs, which — with 
others to the westward — are the head-wa- 
ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the 
South Platte River. Along the road now 
is heavy rock-work, and on the exposed 
portions of the road may be seen the snow- 
sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or 
stone. 

Buford— is a small side-track, 6 9-10 
miles further. Heavy rock-work, and 
snow-sheds and fences mark the road. 
Water for the station is elevated from 
springs down the ravine, on the southward. 
The country here presents a wild, rug- 
ged and grand apearance. The level 
ground or little valleys are covered with a 
fine coat of buffalo grass, and now and 
then clumps of stunted pine appear by 
the roadside. On either hand, near by, 
high, bold masses of granite rear their 
gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild 
confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the 
background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks 
of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- 
liarly impressive as we near Sherman, 
especially if it chances to be one of those 
days when the clouds float low down the 
horizon ; then the traveler looks over the 



intervening space between him and the 
mountain range beyond, and sees naught 
but floating masses of vapor; no moun- 
tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy 
shapes, and a long, dark line rising above 
them, o'ertopped by the glistening sides of 
Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we 
see on the north side of the road,a sign- 
board — "Summit of the Mountains;" then 
seem to move along a level plain, covered 
with grass, rocks and shrubs, until we 
reach 

Sherman-^W thousand two hundred 
and forty-two feet above the level of the sea. 
It is named in honor of General Sherman, 
the tallest general in the service. This 
station is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,365 
from San Francisco. 

Sherman, as a town, is not noted for its 
size. The trains stop here but a few min- 
utes. The company's buildings consist of 
a comfortable station, a small repair shop, 
and a round-house of five stalls. A post- 
office, telegraph and express offices, one 
store, two hotels, two saloons, and about 
twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the 
town. 

Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's 
Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's 
Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- 
west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- 
tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- 
mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 
88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on 
at this station for the East and West is 
quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- 
ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in 
the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- 
tant to the northward. On many of these 
hills, and in the canyons, are found a 
dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, 
as to quality and adaptability for being 
dressed, resembles the hemlock of the 
Eastern States. 

The winters are not as severe at Sherman 
as many think, neither is the snow-fall as 
deep as many would suppose from seeing 
the great number of snow-shecls and fences ; 
snow seldom falls more than a few inches 
in depth. It is not the depth of snow that 
causes any inconvenience to the working 
of the road, but it is the drifting of it into 
the cuts during the heavy winds. For the 
purpose of preventing this, the sheds, 
fences and walls are erected along the 
road, the latter a few rods away from the 
banks of the cuts. The fences cause an 
eddy or current of air, which piles the 
snow along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



79 



great measure, from the track. Snow-sheds 
cover the deepest cuts along the road, 
where obstructions from the snow are most 
likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- 
est snows come with an east wind ; the 
worst storms come from the southwest. 

The thermometer at Sherman ranges 
from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, 
to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs 
of sparkling water are numerous in the 
surrounding country, and form many 
small streams which wind their way 
among rocks and through gorges until 
they are lost in the waters of other streams. 

At this elevated point, the tourist, if his 
" wind is good," can spend a long time 
pleasantly in wandering amid some of the 
wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the 
continent. There are places where the 
rocks rise higher, where the chasms are 
far deeper, where the surrounding peaks 
may be loftier, and the torrents might- 
ier in their power, and still they do not 



possess such power over the mind of man 
as does the wild, desolate-looking land- 
scape around Sherman. Although the 
plateau is covered with grass, and occa- 
sional shrubs and stunted trees greet the 
eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- 
lation render this place one of awful gran- 
deur. The hand of Him who rules the 
universe is nowhere else more marked, and 
in no place will the tourist feel so utterly 
alone, so completely isolated from man- 
kind, and left entirely with nature, as at 
Sherman, on the Black Hills of Wyoming. 

_ At the first the tourist experiences much 
difficulty in breathing, the extreme light- 
ness of the air trying the lungs to their ut- 
most capacity, but becoming accustomed 
to the change, and inhaling long draughts 
of the pure mountain air, will greatly pre- 
fer it to a heavier atmosphere. 

Fish and Game — There is no spot along 
the line of road which can be compared to 
the locality around Sherman for trout fish- 




PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. 



80 



ceofutt's new overland toueist 



ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm with them, 
and their speckled sides glisten in every 
eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two 
pounds, and their flesh is as hard and 
white as that of the mountain trout of 
Vermont. 

Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, 
sage hens and grouse abound in the hills 
and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter, 
or tourist should never pass Sherman with- 
out pausing long enough to fly a hook and 
try his rifle. Doubtless this point will be- 
come a favorite summer resort for travelers, 
when the hotel accommodations are such 
as to entice them to remain, as it possesses 
eminent attractions for hunting and fishing. 
From Sherman to Rawlin's, 160 miles, 
the road runs between the Black Hills and 
the Rocky Mountain range, presenting 
varied and impressive scenery at various 
points. 

Leaving Sherman, the road turns to the 
left, and passes through several long snow- 
sheds and deep rock cuts to 

Dale Creek Bridge — Dale Creek is a 
noted stream, although a small one, and 
should have a noted bridge — as it has. 
When the road was being constructed over 
these hills, in 1867, the railroad company 
built a plated wooden frame-work structure 
650 feet long, from bluff to bluff and 126 
feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, 
interlaced with each other, and securely 
corded together and stayed by wire cables, 
secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on 
each side to substantial anchorage, clown 
into the valley below, presenting a light 
and graceful appearance when viewed 
from the creek below. This old bridge 
was replaced in 1877 by one of iron, of 
similar dimensions, built in the most sub- 
stantial manner— see illustration, page 49. 
From the bridge, the beautiful little 
stream looks like a silver thread below us, 
the sun glistening its surface with a thou- 
sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the 
dark walls of the canyon shade it, as 
though they were envious or jealous of its 
beauty being rendered common property. 
A narrow, green valley, half a mile above 
the bridge, is the site of the former 
Dale City, where, at one time, were 
over 600 inhabitants. Now, a few hundred 
yards above the bridge, can be seen a soli- 
tary house— like a lone sentinel in front of 
a deserted camp. Here, too, as well as 
around Sherman, and all over the Black 
Hills, are found countless flowers of every 



variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which 
have been classified. 

Virginia Dale — is situated fifteen miles 
southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the 
head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near 
the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east 
side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging 
rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile 
along the stream, giving a wild and pictur- 
esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur 
to the scene, rarely surpassed. This point 
is called the "Lover's Leap," though we 
never learned that any one ever leaped off; 
but if the leap was made, we judge that 
the jar on alighting in the valley, 6ll0 feet 
below, must have knocked all the love, 
romance or sentiment out of those making 
it. In and around this place are numerous 
dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, 
towering peaks and rugged recesses, 
enough to employ the tourist for some 
time in examining their beauties. 

Some "yellow-covered novelist" has 
immortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it 
the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to 
inform us what they roosted on. But 
aside from this questionable honor, Virginia 
Dale is the most widely known and cele- 
brated of any locality in these mountains. 
There are a few good buildings around the 
place, where excursionists, who visit to 
enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare 
fishing and hunting, are provided for. 
See Annex, No 10. 

We now return to the railroad, cross the 
bridge, and turn away to the northward, 
through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, 
made through red sandstone, six miles to 
Tie Siding — This station is important 
only in the tact of its being a point where 
great quantities of ties and wood are 
brought to the railroad from the hills to 
the northward. The view to the south 
is that of a very broken and rugged coun- 
try. To the west, the southern end of 
the great Laramie Plains is spread out, 
almost at our feet, twenty miles in width, 
with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- 
ing from its western border, range upon 
range, peak overlapping peak, away up, 
up into the regions of perpetual snow, 
over one hundred miles away. 

Our train is descending rapidly, and 
more to the northward ; steam is no longer 
required — only brakes. Onward, 4 1-10 
miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca- 
vations, brings us to 

Harney — an unimportant station. 
Passing on, to the left can be seen the old 




STEAMBOAT ROCK, ECHO CANYON, UTAH, U P.R.R. (See Annex No. 19.) 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



81 




CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. 



Denver and Salt Lake stage road, the tele- 
graph marking the line for some distance 
along the railroad. On the right hand, the 
whole valley has been fenced in for 
grazing purposes. 

The next station is 4 1-2 miles, denomi- 
nated 

Red Bnttes— This locality derived 
its name from several ridges and peculiar 
formations of sandstone lying between the 
railroad and the Black Hills on the right. 

Many of these sandstones rear their 
peaks from 500 to 1,000 feet above the 
plain, apparently worn and washed by the 
elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and 
grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- 
tance, might be taken for castles, rise side 
by side with the wall of an immense fort ; 
churches rear their roofs, almost shading 
the lowly cottage by their side ; columns, 
monuments and pyramids are mixed up 
with themselves and each other, as though 
some malignant power had carried off 
6 



some mighty city of the olden time, and, 
wearying of his booty, had thrown it down 
upon these plains, without much regard 
to the order in which the buildings were 
placed. 

Some few only of these curiosities, can be 
seen from the car windows, and those are 
not the largest. The tourist, by stopping 
over a day or two at Laramie, would find 
much of interest in this section of the 
country. 

The Laramie River rises about 50 miles 
to the southwest from Red Buttes, on the 
eastern slope of the mountains— its source 
being composed of almost innumerable 
springs. Its general course is northeast 
for 200 miles, when it empties into the 
North Platte River at Fort Laramie. 

During the building of the road, thou- 
sands of ties were floated down to Lara- 
mie, and thence hauled along the line. 

The supply of timber in this region is 
as near inexhaustible as can well be im- 



82 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



agined, where forests do not recover from 
the cutting. There will be no second 
growth here ; when once cut off, it is gone 
forever. Saw mills will find employment 
for many generations, ere they can lay 
bare these mountains. 

Fort Sanders— six and a half miles 
from Red Buttes, is a railroad station, for 
the military post of Fort Sanders, situated 
on the east side of the railroad, close to 
the track, and in plain view for miles in 
every direction. The buildings are princi- 
pally of logs, several of stone, and one an 



ordinary frame — the headquarters. 

This post was established June 23d, 
1866, by two companies of the Third Bat- 
talion, U. S. Infantry, under command of 
Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel H. M. Mizner, 
Captain 18th Infantry. Latitude 41 deg, 
13 min. 4 sec. (observation), longitude 105 
deg. 40 min. (approximate.) 

Two and a-half miles farther on— rolling 
over a broad prairie, twenty-five miles in 
width — we arrive at the end of the ''Moun- 
tain Division " of the road — Laramie. 



TIME TABLE. 



LARAMIE DIVISION. 

LARAMIE TO GREEN RIVER. 



E. Dickinson, Division Superintendent. 



WEST 


FROM OMAHA. 


LARAMIE TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


Daily 
Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 

from 

Omaha 


STATIONS. 


Elevati'n 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


10:20 pm 
10:55 


5:60 pm 

5:18 

5:35 

6:02 

6:30 

6:55 

7:40 t 

8:05 

8:30 

8:50 

9:20 

9:42 

9.57 
10:15 
10 :35 
10:58 
11:15 
11:40 

12:15 a m 
12:35 
12:55 

1:17 

1:45 

2:10 

2:32 

3:00 

3:25 

3:45 

4:00 

4:15 

4:40 

4:55 

5:10 

5:22 

5:40 

6:00 

6;15 

6:40 

7 :25t 


..573 

. 581 


Lv *LARAMIE Av 

Howell 


...7123.. 
....7090.. 
....'5068.. 
....7044.. 

.. 7169.. 


11:30 am 
11:02 
10:45 
10:18 

9:55 

9:27 

9:i.O t 

8:20 

8:00 

7:40 

7:12 

6:55 

6:10 

6:20 

5:58 

5:33 

5:15 

4:50 

4:30 

3:55 

3:25 

3:00 

2:40 

2:10 

1:40 

1:10 
12:50 
12:25 

12:05 am 
11:50 
11:25 
11:10 
10:55 
10:40 
10:25 
10:02 

9:45 

9:15 

9:00 + 


2:00 
1 :25 


11:30 


. 588 




;~:50 


12:20 am 


..602 




10:05 p m 
11 -25 


1:10 


..606 


*Lookout 


1:50 


..614 




....6810.. 


10:35 


2:35 


..623 

..630 

..638.. . . 


*Rock Creek 


.. 6690.. 


9:40 


3:20 




.. 7033.. 


8:40 


4:10 


*Coino 


... 6680.. 

....6550.. 

.. 6750.. 


8:00 


4:45 


..645 


*Medicine Bow 


7:00 


5:40 


..656 


*Carbon 


6:10 


6:15 


..662 




...6898.. 


5:05 


6:40 


..669 


*Percy 


...6950.. 


4:40 


7:10 


..675 




....6875.. 
....6751.. 


4:05 


7:50 


..680 

. 688 

..694 


*St. Mary's .... 


3:25 


8:30 


Wolcott 


....6800.. 


2:40 


9:00 




.. 6840.. 


2:10 


9:50 


..702 




...6560.. 


1:25 


11:10 t 
11:50 


..709 

..716 


*Rawlins 


..6732.. 
. ..b821 


12:50 am 
11 :35 t 


12:25 pm 
1:10 


..723 

..730 




... 6900. 


11:45 




. ..6885. 


10:10 


1:55 


.;737 .... 


*Creston 


....7030 . 


9:35 


2:35 


..744 


Latham 


...6900 . 
....6697.. 


8:45 


3:15 


..752 

761 


*Wash-a-kie 


8:05 


4:00 




.. 671n.. 


7:20 


4:40 


..768 


Tipton 


....6800. 


6:45 


5:15 
5:40 


..775 

..780 


*TableRock 


.. .6890.. 
....6785. 


6:05 
5:40 


6:05 + 


..785 


*Bitter Creek 


... 6685.. 
...6600.. 


5:05 


6:45 


..794 


*Black Buttes 


4:20 


7:10 


..798... . 
. 805 


Hallville 


...659o.. 


3:50 


7:40 


*Point of Rocks 


..-..6490.. 
. 6425 


3:20 


8:05 


..810 




3:00 


8:35 


..817 


*Salt Wells 


6360 


2:25 


9:15 


..825 




....6300.. 
....G280.. 
....6200. 


1:45 


9:45 
10:35 


..831 

..839 

..845.... 


*Rock Springs 


1:25 
12:35 pm 


11 :50 t 


Ar....*GREEN RIVER Lv 


....6140.. 


12:00 noon 



t Meals. * Telegraph. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



Laramie City — the enterprising 
county seat of Albany county, has wonder- 
fully improved within the last few years. 
It has a population of 4,000, and is regu- 
larly laid out, at right angles with the 
road. A stream of clear, cold water, 
which rises in a spring a few miles to the 
eastward, runs through the principal 
streets ; the buildings are small and mostly 
of wood with a few substantial structures 
of stone. The spirit of improvement is 
manifested, on every hand, which has re- 
cently completed numerous stores, hotels, 
banks, churches, schools, dwellings, and 
other buildings, including a court-house 
and jail. Trees line many of the streets, 
and present a cheerful and home-like ap- 
pearance ; in fact, most of the Laramie 
residents are here to stay, and are deter- 
mined to make it the "Boss " city of the 
Plains. 

Laramie was many years after the com- 
pletion ot the road, a regular eating sta- 
tion for passenger trains from the East and 
West. The meals were served in the com- 
pany's large and commodious hotel — in 
front of which the cars stop — but cir- 
cumstances made it necessary to establish 
the eating house farther to the northward, 
and it is now at Rock Creek, 51 miles dis- 
tant. The Sentinel, a daily and weekly 
paper, is published here. 

Rolling Mill — During the year of 
1874, the Railroad Company erected a roll- 
ing mill at this place, at a cost of $127,- 
500. It is situated to the right of the road 
a short distance north of the station. The 
mill is in operation night and day, re-roll- 
ing old rails and other heavy work. 

The company's division shops are also 
located here. They are of stone obtained 
from Rock Creek, 50 miles distant to the 
northward. The round-house contains 20 
stalls. The machine shop is used for gen- 
eral repairing, and contains all the neces- 
sary machinery of a first-class shop. 

The railroad was completed to this point 
June 18th, 1868, and for some months 
Laramie was known as the " end of the 
track," which at that time meant that it 
was not only the place from which all 
freight and supplies for the West were 
hauled on wagons — but it was the center 
for all the gamblers, roughs and abomina- 
tions which followed the building of the 
road. 

Directly to the east of this place can be 
seen the Cheyenne Pass wagon road — the 
old emigrant route — which crosses the 



plain and river half a mile below the 
city, running northwest to the base of the 
mountains, parallel with the railroad. 

Woman Jury — Laramie was the first 
place in America — or in the world even — 
where a female jury was empaneled. 
Their first case was that of a Western des- 
perado, and there was no flinching from 
duty on the part of the "weaker sex." 
Before bringing in their verdict, they in- 
voked the divine guidance — while their 
nurses calmed the rising generation by 
singing, 

" Nice little baby, don't get in a fury, 
'Cause mamma's gone to sit on the jury." 

"Tricks that are vain" — Curious 
passengers will note from this city west 
the railroad laborers — section hands — are 
all Chinamen ; they are said to be very 
reliable ; and, as they don't drink whisky, 
the saloons along the line are getting al- 
most as scarce as the grasshoppers and 
mice. The saloon-men are all "anti- 
Chinese." 

Laramie Plains — comprise a belt of 
fine grazing lands about 25 miles 
wide by 60 long, and is considered one of 
the best locations for stock-raising in this 
section of the country. 

The remarks made about the grazing 
lands elsewhere will well apply to this sec- 
tion. Beef can be raised and fattened on 
these plains at an expense not exceeding 
the cost of such cattle in Texas, where, as 
every one knows, they raise themselves 
and form the larger half of the population. 
The peculiar feature of these grasses are 
similar to those already described. The 
plains are higher, and frost makts its ap- 
pearance earlier in the fall, but the grass 
is cured by the summer sun before its ar- 
rival, so that the cold weather does not in- 
jure it. We need only to mention the 
well-known fact that thousands of buffalo 
roamed over these plains, furnishing the 
Indians with unlimited quantities of beef, 
before the white man drove them away, to 
convince any one that the laudations of 
this, as a grazing country, are not exagger- 
ated or wild ideas of enthusiasts, but sim- 
ple facts, substantiated by past and present 
experience. 

Stock-raising is now almost the only in- 
dustry noticeable, and a great many thou- 
sand head of cattle, sheep and horses can 
be seen in almost any direction. It is 
computed that there are at this time over 
90,000 head of cattle, 85,000 head ot 
sheep, and 3,000 horses and mules 



84 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



within 40 miles of Laramie, valued at 
$2,250,000. In 1867, there couldn't be 
found in the same section 500 head of all 
kinds— all told. Agriculture is not profit- 
able, yet they have demonstrated that some 
of the hardy vegetables can be cultivated 
with success on the bottom lands. 

Items of Interest — Crystal Lake is 
about 40 miles to the westward of Lara- 
mie. Sheep Mountain — one of the peaks 
in the Rocky Mountain range — rears its 
head for 12,000 feet above the sea. Should 
the tourist desire to visit the place, he will 
find the road beyond the plains rough, 
and the ascent toilsome. Before begin- 
ning the ascent of the mountains we enter 
one of the grandest forests in the country. 
For ten miles we toil on through the for- 
est, which is so dense that the sunlight 
hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost 
oppressive. Bears, mountain lions, and 
the mountain sheep range here; their 
haunts, until lately, never having been in- 
vaded by the pale face. Emerging from 
this gloom into the fair sunlight, we find 
ourselves on the highest point of the moun- 
tain, from which we can look over piles of 
fleecy clouds floating below us to other 
ranges far beyond. Peak on peak, ridge 
on ridge, they ascend, until their snow- 
clad heights are lost in the distance, or in 
the vast blue dome above. 

Looking downward, we behold a vast 
succession ol dark ridges and grey peaks 
through the rifts in the fog-like vapor 
floating above them. These dark ridges 
derive their sombre hue from the forests 
of pine, which extend for miles and miles 
in all directions. To the east we see a 
deep indentation in the mountains, which is 
Laramie Plains. Across this apparently 
narrow line, the rugged masses of the 
Black Hills rise in their grandeur, their 
black crests closing the scene. 

Turn now to the immediate landscape. 
Here is a green, grassy lawn, dotted with 
tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never 
before beheld, or ever read of, and right 
before us, in the center of this lawn, lies a 
circular lake nearly a mile wide ; its clear, 
soft, cold water glistening in the rays of 
the sun, and reflecting, as in a mirror, every 
object on its banks, transforming them 
into many fantastic shapes, as the breeze 
lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting 
it into little ripples. 

The scene is one of unsurpassed loveli- 
ness immediately around you while the 
view in the distance is grand, aye, sub- 



lime — beyond the power of words to de- 
pict. Whoever visits this place cannot 
fail of being impressed with its wonderous 
beauty, and his mind will take newer and 
clearer impressions of the power of "Him 
who hath created all things." 

The Snowy Range — the great backbone 
of the continent — is covered with snow for a 
great part of the season ; the highest peaks 
ever wearing their white robes, even when 
the passes are covered with flowers. This 
renders them very conspicuous and easily 
discerned at a great distance. Hence the 
term " Snowy Range." 

Characteristics op the Country — In 
general descriptions we speak of Laramie 
Plains as including all the country lying 
between the western base of the Black 
Hills and the eastern base of the Rocky 
Mountains — a grand park, similar in for- 
mation to the great parks of Colorado, 
though of much less altitude. These 
" parks " are immense bodies of table 
lands, enclosed by the peaks and ridges 
of the surrounding mountains, sheltered 
by them from the cold winds, watered by 
them from the never-failing streams which 
flow from gorges and canyons among 
these peaks, from which the snow is never 
absent. The average elevation of the Lar- 
amie Plains or park is about 6,500 feet, 
though where Laramie City stands it is 
more. The Black Hill ranges of the Rocky 
Mountains form the eastern and northern 
boundary of the "Plains." This range 
extends nearly due north to Laramie Peak, 
about 150 miles, thence west, terminating 
in the Seminole Mountains. On the south, 
the park or plain is bordered by the Rocky 
Mountains, which here reach an elevation 
of from 10,000 to 13,000 feet above the sea 
— snow-capped always. To the altitude of 
from 8,000 to 9,000 feet, these slopes are 
covered with dense pine forests. 

In the mountains to the westward, in 
North Park, Douglass, and other creeks, 
rich mines of gold, silver, copper, and 
nearly all the known metals have been dis- 
covered, and in several cases, worked to ad- 
vantage. The Keystone is reported to be a 
very rich mine, the owners of which are 
taking out the ore and piling it up, to await 
the arrival of a stamp mill which will be 
put up in a few months. Undoubtedly 
there are vast regions tributary to Laramie 
equally well-stored with mineral deposits, 
that have never been prospected or visited 
by the white men. 

On the northwest from out the Elk 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



85 



Mountains, juts the Rattlesnake Range, ex- 
tending north to the North Platte, carrying 
an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. 

Through the western range, the North 
Platte canyons, and. on the east, the Medi- 
cine Bow River cuts through the eastern 
range, separating it from the foot-hills of 
the northerly range of the Black Hills. 
Through the plains flow the Big and Little 
Laramie Rivers, which, as we before stated, 
rise in the mountains which border the 
western rim of the plains. These streams 
canyon through the Black Hills north of 
Laramie Peak, and enter the North Platte 
near Fort Laramie. 

Rock Creek rises east of Medicine Bow, 
and after flowing north to about latitude 
42 degs. flows west and empties into the 
Medicine Bow. This river rises in Medi- 
cine Bow Mountains, and flows north to 
about the same latitude as Rock Creek, 
thence west, and canyons through the Rat- 
tlesnake range of hills, entering w the North 
Platte about 150 miles northwest of Lara- 
mie City, in latitude 42 deg. 3 min. 

By this showing it will be observed that 
the immense park, or Laramie Plains, is 
well watered — suflicienjly for grazing and 
irrigation. We have been more explicit, 
have dwelt longer on these points than we 
should have done, did we not feel a desire 
to show to the emigrant, or to those who 
are seeking good locations for grazing 
lands, that the Laramie Plains possess 
these advantages in an eminent degree. 
We have wandered far away from the 
plains in our descriptions, but the grazing 
lands end not with the plains. The moun- 
tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, 
the valleys, bluffs, and foot-hills, all pre- 
sent the same feature in point of luxuriant 
crops of grass. The valleys of the streams 
mentioned also contain thousands of acres 
of meadow land, where hay can be cut in 
abundance, and, if the season will permit, 
wheat, barley and rye might be grown to 
advantage, the soil being a black loam, 
and sufficiently moist to insure good crops 
without irrigation. 

Fish and Game — Trout — the finest in 
the world — can be found in every moun- 
tain stream, while every variety of game 
ranges over the mountains, hills valleys 
and plains in countless numbers. 

With these general remarks, we will re- 
turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- 
ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross 
the Laramie River, and eight miles brings 
us to 



Howell's — an unimportant station, 
where passenger trains seldom stop. It is 
then 7 6-10 miles to 

Wyoming — on the Little Laramie 
River. During the building of the road 
large quantities of ties were received at 
this point, which were cut at the head of 
the river and floated down the stream in 
high water. The country is a broad prai- 
rie. At the station we crossed Little Lara- 
mie, a small stream which rises in the 
mountains to the westward and empties 
into Laramie River. The same might be 
said of Whiskey Creek, a small stream 
which is crossed next. To the next station 
it is 8 7-10 miles. 

Cooper Iialce— Near the station, to 
the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- 
ter, about two miles long by half-a-mile 
wide, called Cooper's Lake. 

Lookout — a station with an altitude 
of 7,169 feet— is 8 7-10 miles from Cooper 
Lake. We are now entering the rolling 
prairie country, where, for 25 miles either 
way along the road, vast herds of elk, 
deer and antelope are found at different 
seasons of the year — the elk being mostly 
found in the winter, when the snow drives 
them from the mountains. We also begin 
to find occasional bunches of sage-brush, 
which tell us that we have entered the 
country where this more useful than orna- 
mental shrub abounds. Occasionally we 
pass through cuts and over low fills, by 
snow-fences, and through snow-sheds, the 
country growing rougher as we pass along 
8 3-10 miles to 

Miser Station— Sage-brush is the 
rule. Just before reaching the station, we 
pass through a very deep cut— one of the 
deepest on the road — where a little spur of 
the bluffs rises abruptly from the plains, 
right in the way of the road. Just before 
reaching the next station, we cross Rock 
Creek, towards the head of which is good 
trout fishing. It is 9 7-10 miles to 

Rock Creek— a small station, situ- 
ated on a small creek of the same name. 
[See description of Rock Creek on preceed- 
ing pages.] This is a regular eating sta- 
tion ; trains from the East stop for supper, 
from the West for breakfast — 30 minutes 

The English language is wonderful for its apt- 
ness of expression. When a number of men and 
women get together and look at each other from 
the sides of a room, that's called a sociable. When 
a hungry crowd calls upon a poor station keeper 
and eats him out of house and home, that's called 
a donation party. 



86 



CROFITTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



are allowed for that purpose, which is am 
pie time to comfortably dispose of all the 
good things furnished, and view the collec- 
tion of curiosities. 

Leaving the station, our course now lies 
to the eastward ; the train winds around 
the spurs of the bluffs, which seem to bar 
our way by interlocking with each other, 
on through a rough, rolling country, again 
turning to the westward, over bridges and 
fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 
7-10 miles to 

Wilcox — an unimportant station, and 
we continue crossing creeks and ravines 
for 7 9-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- 
ing and middling heavy road-work, and 
arrive at 

Como — another unimportant little 
place. Soon after passing the station we 
come to Como Lake, a beautiful little 
sheet of water, lying to the right of the 
road. It is about one mile long and half- 
a-mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, 
a "fish with legs." These fish-animals 
possess gills something like a cat-fish ; are 
amphibious, being often found crawling 
clumsily around on land, miles from the 
lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossil 
shells are found around the lake that are 
gathered in summer by persons who offer 
them tor sale to the tourists. 

Medicine Bow River — is crossed a few 
miles after leaving Como. It rises in the 
Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, 
and empties its waters into the North 
Platte River. 

This river was long a noted resort for 
Indians, and several treaties have been 
made on its banks between the " noble red 
men " and their pale-faced " brothers." 
The valley of the river, above the railroad, 
for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- 
tom-land, until it reaches the base of the 
mountain. From thence to its source the 
course of the river is through immense 
forests of pine, wh'ch present unrivaled 
facilities for lumbering. Fish are found 
in great quantities in the stream, and the 
various kinds of game which abound in 
this country are found in the mountains 
where the river has its source. Soon after 
crossing the river, and 7 1-10 miles from 
Como, we come to 

Medicine Row — containing several 
stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- 
ger station, and a five-stall round-house. 

Leaving this station, the road is laid 
over a smooth, level plain, for about five 
miles, when it enters a rough, hilly, sage- 



brush country. The train winding around 
through deep cuts and long snow-sheds, 
for 4 2-10 miles further, stops at 

Carbon — Here was discovered the 
first coal on the Union Pacific R.R. Two 
banks or coal veins have been opened, the 
veins averaging about ten feet. This coal 
is used principally by the Railroad Com- 
pany, for their locomotives — the quality 
not being so good for domestic purposes 
as that mined further to the west, at Rock 
Springs and Evanston. During the year 
1877, these mines produced 80,000 tons. 

The coal is raised from the mine and 
dumped into the flat-cars, while standing 
on the track — the shaft of the mine being 
between the main and side track, close to 
the station; a stationary engine furnish- 
ing the hoisting power. Another shaft is 
to the south of the town, a short distance, 
reached by a railtrack. 

Carbon contains a population of about 
800, and is the county seat of Carbon coun- 
ty, which contains a population of about 
2,000 — most of whom are engaged in stock- 
raising. 

Simpson — a small, unimportant side- 
track, is reached seven miles from Carbon, 
after passing through a succession of cuts, 
many of which are covered with snow- 
sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The 
road now curves around, and runs almost 
due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- 
tion it is 4 6-10 miles. 

Percy — The station was named for 
Percy T. Brown, an engineer who was 
killed by the Indians, while employed sur- 
veying the line. 

During the construction of the road, 
this was an important station. Ties, tele- 
graph poles, wood and bridge timber, were 
landed at this point in immense quantities. 

They were obtained at Elk Mountain, 
seven miles to the south. The old stage 
road winds around the base of the moun- 
tain, between that and the railroad. Near 
the foot of the mountain, old Fort Halleck 
and one of the most important stations of 
the Overland Stage Company, were located ; 
both are now abandoned. 

Elk Mountain — is a noted, landmark, 
and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises 
to a great height, its top being covered 
with snow a great portion of the year, 
and at any time snow can be found in 
places on the summit. It has the appear- 
ance of being an isolated peak, though, 
really, it is the extreme northern spur of 
the Medicine Bow Mountains. It is, how- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



37 




SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLOKES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. 



ever, surrounded by rolling prairie laml, 
and seems to rise boldly from it, rough, 
rugged and alone. On the west side, the 
summit is easily reached by a good road, 
made by the lumbermen. The mountain 
is nearly round, about six miles in diame- 
ter at its base. Its sides are covered with 
dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock 
It is worthy of note, that this is the only 
point where the latter species of timber- 
is found along the line of the road. It 
grows in profusion with the spruce in the 
gorges, ntar the summit. 

To the south is a fine valley, about 15 
miles wide and 20 miles long. iPass Creek, 
which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- 
tains, runs through this valley on its 
way to the North Platte River. Large 



quantities of hay are cut in the bottom 
lands along the creek. This stream, like 
all others which rise in this range, is full 
of fine trout and other fish. Antelope 
abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears 
and mountain sheep, while mountain lions 
find their homes in the dark ravines and 
gloomy gorges of the mountain. 

Dana — is an unimportant station 6 
1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to 
the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road 
is built down the valley of an alkali ravine. 
Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali 
water are the only objects that greet the 
eye — an unpleasant greeting, it must be 
confessed. 

St. Mary's— is 7 5-10 miles from 
Dana. Soon"after leaving the station, our 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



train enters the ravine, where the bluffs as- 
sume more formidable features; in fact, 
the ravine becomes a gorge, the rugged 
spurs shooting out as though they would 
reach the opposite wall, and bar out farther 
progress. The first one of these spurs does 
indeed bar our way, or did until a tunnel 
was completed. Before this tunnel was 
finished, the company laid the road around 
the point of the spur on a temporary track. 
Emerging from the tunnel, the train rushes 
down the gorge, the wall now rising close 
abrupt and high, on either hand, and 17 8-10 
miles from St. Mary's we arrive at and 
pass 

Wolcot's — an unimportant station. 
Down, down we go — the rough spurs 
point out from either wall of the canyon, 
an indenture in one bank marking a pro- 
jection on the other. While looking on 
this scene, one cannot help fancying that 
one time this chasm was not; that some 
fearful convulsion of nature rent the 
mighty rocks in twain, leaving these rag- 
ged walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. 
Suddenly we whirl out of the mouth of 
this chasm — out on the level lands of the 
North Platte River — cross a substantial 
wooden bridge, and stop at 

Fort Fred. Steele— 5 .8-10 miles 
west of Wolcot's ; elevation, 6,840 feet. 

This fort was established June 30th, 
1868, by four companies of the 30th In- 
fantry, under command of Brevet Col. R. 
I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. When the 
posts in the Powder River country were 
abandoned, the great bulk of the military 
stores were hauled to this place and stored 
for future use. 

About two miles west of Fort Steele 
formerly stood 

Benton City — now entirely abandoned. 
The road was completed to this point the 
last of July, 1868. At that time a large 
amount of freight for Montana, Idaho, 
Utah, and the western country was re- 
shipped in w^agons at this point, and dur- 
ing August and September the place pre- 
sented a lively aspect, which continued 
until the road was finished to Bryan, the 
first of October. Benton at that time was 
composed of canvas tents ; about 3,000 peo- 
ple of all kinds made the population ; a 
harder set it would be impossible to find — 
roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the same 
thing), fast women, and the usual accom- 
paniments of the railroad towns, flourished 
here in profusion. There were high old 
times in Benton then, but as the road 



stretched away to the westward, the people 
"packed up their tents and stole noiselessly 
away," leaving only a few old chimneys 
and post-holes to mark the spot of the once 
flourishing town. Whiskey was the prin- 
cipal drink of the citizens, it being the 
most convenient, as all the water used had 
to be hauled from the Platte River, two 
miles distant, at an expense of one dollar 
per barrel, or ten cents per bucket-full. 

At Benton, the bluffs which mark the 
entrance to the canyon of the Platte near 
Fort Steele, are plainly visible and will 
continue in sight until we near Rawlins. 
They are of gray sandstone, worn, marked 
by the waters or by the elements, far up 
their perpendicular sides. They are on the 
opposite side of the river, the banks on the 
west side being comparatively low. 

At this point the river makes a bend, and 
for several miles we seem to be running 
down the river, parallel with it, though 
really drawing away from the stream. 

To the south is a long, high ridge of 
grey granite, called the " Hog Back." It 
is about four miles away from the road, 
and runs parallel with it for about 15 
miles, terminating in the highlands of 
Rawlins Springs. It is very narrow at the 
base, not exceeding half-a-mile in width, 
yet it rises from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. 
The ridge is so sharp that cattle cannot be 
driven across it, and in many places it is 
all but impracticable for a man to.attempt to 
walk along its summit. Where this ridge 
reaches the river bank, about two and a 
half miles above the bridge, the walls are 
perpendicular and very high, from 1,000 to 
1,500 feet. A corresponding bluff on the 
opposite side shows that the river has cut a 
channel through this ridge, which at one 
time barred the progress of the waters. 

On the south side of the ridge is a very 
pretty little valley, through which flows a 
small creek into the Platte. It furnishes 
fine grazing, and is in marked contrast to 
the surrounding country. 

Many years ago this green and peaceful 
looking vale was the scene of a fearful bat- 
tle between the Sioux and their inveterate 
enemies, ihe Utes. The Sioux were encamped 
in the valley, and were surprised by the 
Utes, who stole on them in the grey light 
of the morning, and attacked them furi- 
ously. Though taken by surprise, the 
Sioux fought bravely, but were surrounded 
and overpowered. When trying to escape, 
they essayed to cross the " Hog Back," 
but every one who raised his head above 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



them rises a clear, sparkling spring of 
ice-cold water, and we opine that the 
time is not far distant when these springs 
will be taken up, a narrow gauge railroad 
laid down, hotels built, and one of the 
finest " watering places " in the world 
opened to the public. 

Fish of many kinds, and beavers, are 
abundant in the streams; the beavers 
erecting dams often six feet high. The 
mountains and forests are full of game, and 
in them and the open valleys can be found 
elk, deer, antelope, bears, mountain sheep 
and lions, and, occasionally, the bison or 
mountain buffalo. 

The forests are dense and large in extent ; 
from which, during the building of the 
road, large quantities of ties were cut and 
floated down the river to Fort Steele. The 
valleys are fertile and large, and all in all, 
it is a grand, wild country, where the tour- 
ist could enjoy life to his heart's content, 
in hunting, fishing, andfighting the Indians. 

Orennville — is a small side-track 
station 8 4-10 miles west of Fort Steele, and 
it is seven miles further to 

Rawlins — (usually called Rawling 
Springs). This place contains a population 
of about 800. The Railroad Company 



the crest was picked off instantly. A por- 
tion of the band escaped in another direc- 
tion, leaving their dead comrades on the 
field. The Sioux were so badly whipped 
that from that time forward they have had 
little use for the Utes. 

North Platte River— We gave a 
short description of this river from where 
we first crossed it, near North Platte City, 
to Fort Steele, so we will now trace it from 
this station to its source. 

From Fort Steele to the head waters of 
the Platte is about 150 to 200 miles. It 
rises in the mountains of the Nortli Park, 
its waters being supplied by many tributa- 
ries, which, at present, are mostly nameless. 
The course of the river, from its source to 
this point, is nearly due north. 

About twenty-five miles above the fort, 
is the Platte Ferry, on the old overland 
stage road. 

Good bottom lands are found along the 
stream at intervals. About 100 miles fur- 
ther up, the tributaries of the river begin 
to empty their waters into the main stream, 
and the timber land commences. 

Douglas Creek and French Creek are 
tributaries of the Platte, and run through 
heavy timbered valleys. Gold mines and ' 
gulch diggings were 
discovered here, but not 
prospected to any great 
extent. On the west side 
of the river, Monument 
and Big creeks empty 
their waters into the 
Platte, nearly opposite 
the creeks first named. 

Big Creek rises in a 
beautiful lake, about 
three miles long by half 
a mile wide. A half- 
mile above this lies 
another lake, but little 
smaller. This ground 
is disputed territory be- 
tween the Sioux and 
Utes, rendering it very 
unsafe for small parties. 

Eight miles from 
Douglas Creek coal is 
found in abundance, 
and farther on, fine- 
looking quartz veins 
crop out on the hillside. 
Near here are sulphur 
springs, seven in num- 
ber, and very hot: 
while, alono- side of snow galleries, sierra Nevada mountains. 




90 



CEOFTJTT S NEW OYEELAND TOUEIST 



have built here a fine hotel, a round-house 
of 20 stalls, and machine-shops for division 
repairs. The Railroad Company employ 
130 men. 

The surrounding country is rough and 
broken, covered with sage-brush and 
flecked with alkali. Close above the town 
a fine sulphur spring rises from under the 
bed of blue limestone, and other springs 
arise from the surface of a narrow, wet 
ravine, which extends about a mile above 
the town. The bed of the ravine, as far as 
the water extends, is white with alkali, 
where the pools of stagnant water do not 
cover it. 

From 30 to 40 miles to the northeast of 
this station, are located the Ferris and 
Seminole mining districts. The ore is sil- 
ver, and said by some people to be very 
rich. Several mills are in operation, and 
others will soon be erected. Coal, wood 
and water is abundant near the mines, and 
prospects are bright for the future of the 
district. 

Rawlins is the county seat of Carbon 
county, and was named in honor of Gen'l 
J. A. Rawlins. The principal business in 
which the citizens are engaged is stock 
raising and mining. 

Two miles north of the station a paint 
mine has been discovered, which prospects 
now to be very valuable. It is said to be 
fire-and-water proof. Two mills have been 
erected at the station for grinding the paint, 
with a daily capacity of three and ten tons 
respectively. The Union Pacific Railroad 
Company are using it to paint their cars. 

Leaving Rawlins, we follow up the nar- 
row ravine spoken of, through a natural 
pass about 300 feet wide, which leads be- 
tween two nearly perpendicular bluffs over 
200 feet in height, composed of yellowish 
gray quartzose sandstone, overlaid with 
carboniferous limestone. This bluff ap- 
pears to have extended across the ravine 
sometime in the past. Perhaps a large 
lake was imprisoned above, which kindly 
burst these huge walls, and left a natural 
route for the railroad. 

Beyond the pass we follow up this dry 
lake bed 6 7-10 miles through a sage-brush 
and alkali country to 

Summit — a small station where the 
passenger trains do not stop, and 6 7-10 
miles further arrive at 

Separation — This station derives its 
name Troni the fact that at this place the 
various parties of surveyors who had been 
together or near each other for the last 



hundred miles, separated to run different 
lines to the westward; elevation, 6,900 feet. 
We are rapidly rising, and 15 miles fur- 
ther will be on the summit of the Rocky 
Mountains. 

Artesian wells are quite numerous along 
the line, most of them having been finished 
within the past five years. They are from 
326 feet to 1,145 feet in depth, flowing 
from 400 to 1,000 gallons an hour, in one 
place 26 feet ab( »ve the surface. By pumping, 
these wells will supply from 650 to 2,400 
gallons of water per hour. The one at this 
station is 1,103 feet deep, in which the 
water stands 10 feet from the surface, and 
by pumping yields 2,000 gallons per hour. 

Fillmore — is another station where 
the cars do not stop. It is 7 5-10 miles 
west from Separation, and seven miles 
from 

C'reston — Sage-brush and alkali beds 
are the rule now, and have be.n for the 
last 25 miles, and will be for the next 100 
miles. We are now near the summit of 
the great " back-bone " of the continent — 
the Rocky Mountains — just 7,030 ftet 
above the level of the sea. 

Two and a half miles west of this point 
a large sign-board has been erected, bearing 
the following : 

« CONTINENTAL DIVIDE," 
and marks the summit 7,100 feet above the 
level of the sea. This point is about 185 
miles from Sherman, 737 from Omaha, and 
from San Francisco, 1,177. 

On this wild spot, surrounded by few 
evidences of vegetation — and those of the 
most primitive form— this little sign marks 
the center of the grandest range of moun- 
tains on the continent. Amid what seems 
to have been the wreck of mountains, we 
stand and gaze away in the vast distance 
at the receding lines of hill, valley and 
mountain peaks, which we have passed in 
our journey. We feel the cool mountain 
breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma 
of life and vegetation with its cooling cur- 
rent, We feel and know that the same 
sky which hangs so warm and blue over 
the smiling valleys, looks down upon us 
now — but how changed the aspect; thin, 
gray and cold it appears, and so clear that 
we almost expect to see the stars looking 
down through the glistening sunbeams. 
We do not seem to be on the mountain 
height, for the expanse seems but a once 
level plain, now arched and broken into 
ugly, repulsive hollows and desolate knobs. 

Here, if a spring should rise from this 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



91 




Foundation of Temple. 



VIEW OF SALT TAKE CITY, LOOKING SOUTHWEST. 



sage-brush knoll, its waters would divide, 
and the different portions eventually min- 
gle with the two oceans which wash the 
opposite sides of the continent. We enter 
the cars and pass on, the track seeming to 
be lost but a short distance in our front. 
The view from the rear of the car is the 
same. The track seems to be warped up 
and doubled out of sight. The curvature 
of this backbone gives the track a similar 
appearance to that witnessed at Sherman. 
Although much higher at Sherman, still 

To be "dead broke, 11 or out of money, is "in the 
cap," "on the bedrock, 11 etc. 



this is the continental divide, but the low, 
broad pass brings us 1,212 feet below that 
place. To the north, the Seminole moun- 
tains rear their rugged heights, and farther 
on, and more to the westward, can be seen 
the long lines and gray peaks of the 
Sweetwater Range. Still farther to the 
west and north, the Wind River Moun- 
tains close the scene in the dim distance, 
their summits robed in snow. Away to 
the south can be seen the hills which form 
the southern boundary of the pass, near 



" Shooting his mouth off, 
fiant or foul language. 



for one to use de- 



92 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



by where the Bridger Pass Station is situ- 
ated on the old overland stage road. 

With a last look at this rugged, barren, 
desolate region, we speed away over the 
crest, and shall have clown grade for the 
next 108 miles, descending in that distance 
1,110 feet. 

Ijatham— is reached 1*4 miles west, 
but our train does not stop ; and 7 6-10 
miles more brings to 

Wash-a-kie— named after an old 
chief of the Shoshone Indians, whose por- 
trait will be found on page 49. At 
this place is another artesian well, 638 
feet deep, which, at 15 feet above the sur- 
face, flows 800 gallons of pure water per 
hour. 

Red Desert— is 9 3-10 miles from 
Wash-a-kie. The country around here is 
called the Red Desert, from the color of the 
barren soil. It is a huge basin, its waters 
having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are 
found in it, but nothing lives on its surface. 
The soil is bad between Table Rock and 
Creston, the extreme points of the desert, 
38 miles apart. It is composed of the de- 
composition of shale and calcareous clays, 
and is deep red, showing the presence of 
an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. The 
southern margin of the basin is mainly 
sand, which is lifted up by every passing 
breeze to fall in drifts and shifting 
mounds. 

Tipton — a side-track, where our train 
does not stop, is 6 6-10 miles west of Red 
Desert, and 6 7-10 miles further, the train 
will stop at 

Table Rock— This station is on the 
outer edge of the desert, which has an ele- 
vation of 6,890 feet. Off to the left can 
be seen a long line of bluffs, rising from 
50 to 500 feet above the surrounding coun- 
try. They are of red sandstone, which is 
mainly composed of freshwater shells, 
worn, cut, and fluted by the action of the 
elements. One of these bluffs, which 
gives its name to the station, is level on 
the top, which rises about 500 feet above 
the road, and extends for several miles. 
Heavy cuts and fills are found here, show- 
ing that the road is passing Ihrough the 
rim of the desert. After passing through 
this rim, and by the side-track, called 

Agate — we go on, through a rough 
and broken country for ten miles, when 
we arrive at a station called 

Bitter Creek— At this place the 
company have a ten-stall round-house, 
and a machine shop, for repairs. 



As we leave this station, we begin the 
descent of the celebrated Bitter Creek, 
the valley of which we shall follow to 
Green River, about 60 miles west. The 
valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near 
the creek on either side. The stream is 
small and so strongly impregnated with 
alkali as to be almost useless for man or 
beast. The banks and bottoms are very 
treacherous in places, miring any cattle 
which attempt to reach its fetid waters. 
This section was always a terror to travel- 
ers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing 
in the line of vegetation will grow, ex- 
cepting grease- wood and sage-brush. The 
freighter, especially, who had safely navi- 
gated this section, would " ring his pop- 
per " and claim that he was a "tough cuss 
on wheels, from Bitter Creek with a per- 
fect education." 

From the source to the mouth of this 
stream, every indication points to the fact 
that deposits of oil underlie the surface. 
Coal veins — -valuable ones — -have been 
found, and an oil-bearing shale underlies a 
large portion of the valley. The old over- 
land stage and emigrant road follows this 
valley from its source to Green River. 
From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though 
they would like to meet their jagged 
friends on the opposite bluffs ; and around 
the rough points the cars roll merrily on 
down, down to the Green. 

Black Buttes— is 9 1-10 miles down 
the creek. 

Hallville — an unimportant station to 
the tourist, is b% miles from the Buttes, 
and 5 8-10 miles to 

Point of Rocks— Here an artesian 
well, 1,015 feet in depth, supplies an abun- 
dance of pure water. 

Extensive coal mines near this station 
are being worked by the Wyoming Coal 
Company, who ship as high as 100 car- 
loads daily. In one bluff, at a depth of 80 
feet, five veins of coal have been opened — 
one upon the other — which are respectively 
one, three, four, five, and six and a half feet 
in thickness. On the bluff, just above the 
coal, is a seam of oyster-shells six inches in 
thickness, which Hayden says " is an ex- 
tinct and undescribed species, about the 
size of our common edible one." 

The sandstone bluffs, at points along the 
road, are worn by the action of the elements 
into curious, fantastic shapes, some of 
which have been named " Caves of the 
Sand," " Hermit's Grotto," " Water-washed 
Caves of the Fairies," '* Sanko's Bower," 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



93 



&c. Prof. Hayden, in his geological ex- 
amination of this section of the creek, re- 
ported finding " preserved in the rocks the 
greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of 
the poplar, ash, elm and maple." He says 
farther: "Among the plants found is a 
specimen of fan-palm, which, at the time it 
grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous 
dimensions, sometimes having a spread of 
ten or twelve feet. These gigantic palms 
seem to have formed a conspicuous feature 
among the trees of these ancient forests." 
Several sulphur and iron springs are lo- 
cated near, but little attention has been di- 
rected to their special virtues. 

Thayer— a small side-track, 5 3-10 
miles further west, is passed without stop- 
ping, and 6 2-10 miles more we arrive at 

Salt Wells— This, until coal was dis- 
covered in quantities on the creek, was a 
wood station. The wood was obtained 
from five to ten miles south, in the gulches, 
where also could be found game in abund- 
ance — elk, deer, bears, etc. 



Baxter— is eight miles from the Wells 
and 5 4-10 from 

Rock Springs— This station was 
named alter a saline spring of water which 
boils up out of the bluffs, looking very clear 
and nice, but it is very deceiving — an un- 
common thing in this truthful world. 

An artesian well has been sunk at this 
station, 1,145 feet deep. The water flows to 
the surface at the rate of 960 gallons per 
hour, and at 26 feet above the surface, 
flows 571 gallons per hour. The popu- 
lation of this place is 500, mostly engaged 
in mining and stock raising. Near" here 
are more rich coal mines. 

From this point to Green River, the 
scenery becomes more grand and im- 
pressive, the bluffs rising higher and the 
gorge narrowing, until the hills seem to 
hang over the narrow valley with their 
frowning battlements. Through this gorge 
we rattle on nine miles to 

L<awrence— a small station six miles 
from the end Laramie Division. 




94 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



TIME TABLE. 



WESTERN DIVISION. 

GREEN RIVER TO OGDEN. 



W. B. Doddridge, Division Superintendent. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 


LARAMIE TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


Daily 
Express, 

1st & 2d Cl's 

7 :45 t pm 

8-15 

8:35 

9:00 

9:28 

9:55 
10:15 
10:45 
11 :05 
11:45 

12:25 pm 
12:43 
12 :55 

1:50 t 

2:25 

2:58 

3:20 

3:50 

4:20 

4:45 

5:12 

5:30 

5:50 

6:15 t r> m 


Distance 

from 
Omaha. 


STATIONS. 


Elevation 


Daily 
Express, 

1st & 2d Cl's 

8 :30 t 

7:50 

7:30 

7:07 

6:40 

6:15 

5:55 

5:30 

5:18 

4:50 

4:20 

4:00 

3:48 

3:20 t 

2:25 

1:40 

1:15 
12:40 

12:10 p m 
11:45 
11:20 
11:05 
11:45 
10:20 + a m 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


12:20 tarn 
1:10 


....845.. 
858.. 


Lv ...*GREEN RIVER Ar 

*Bryan 


....6140.. 
....6340.. 
... 6245.. 
....6270.. 


11:15 
10:20 


1 '45 


....866.. 




9:40 


2-30 


....876.. 

....887... 
....896.. 




9:00 


3:20 
4-05 


* Church Buttes 

Hampton 


....6317.. 
....6500.. 
....6550.. 
....6780.. 


8:05 
7:20 


4-45 


....904.. 


*Carter 


6:45 




....913.. 
... 918 . 




5:40 


6*10 




....7123.. 
...6540.. 

....7835.. 
.. .731C. 

...6790.. 

...6870.. 
... 6879.. 


5:10 


7:10 


....928.. 


. . *Piedmont 


4:10 


8:15 
8-40 


....937.. 
942.. 


*Aspen 

*Hilliard 


3:10 
2:40 


9:00 


....945 . 
955.. 


Millis 


2:25 


10:40 


* Evanston 


1:35 am 


11:40 

12:30 pm 
1*15 t 


....966.. 

....975.. 

. .982.. 


. * Wasatch .... 


12:00 night 

11:00 

10:15 


*Castle Rock 


....6290.. 
....5974.. 


2:30 


....991.. 


*Echo 


....5315.. 
....5250.. 


9:20 t 


3T5 


....999.. 
1007 




8:10 


3:55 
4*45 


. .* Weber- 


....5130.. 


7:30 


1015 




....4963. 


6:45 


5*10 


..1019.. 
1024 




....4870. 


6:20 


5 -50 


*TJintah 


....4560.. 


5:50 


6 :40 t p m 


.'.. 103-2.. 


Ar *OGDEN Lv 


....4340.. 


5:00 pm 



t Meals. * Telegraph. Note elevations. 



Green River — is the county seat of 
Sweetwater county, 845 miles west of 
Omaha, the end of the Laramie and the 
commencement of the Western Division 
of the U. P. 

The place is a regular eating station, 
where passenger trains stop 30 minutes — 
those from the East for breakfast, those 
from the West tor supper. Much taste is 
displayed at this station in decorating the 
dining room and office with mountain cu- 
riosities, mineral specimens, moss agate 
and horns of game. 

The city has a good court-house — costing 
$35,000 ; several dry goods, grocery, cloth- 
ing and other stores ; two hotels, and about 
400 population ; also, a daily newspaper, 
the Evening Press. The Railroad Com- 
pany has a round-house of 15 stalls, and 
machine shops and repair shops, located 
here, which in the early years of the road, 
were at Bryan. 



It is claimed that the surrounding coun- 
try is rich in mines, but one thing is cer- 
tain — it is rich in cattle; it has cattle on 
more than a " thousand hills." 

The bluffs near this station present a 
peculiar formation called, by Prof. Hay- 
den, the " Green River Shales." For a 
beautiful illustration of the bluffs, the sta- 
tion and the bridge, see Annex No. 16. 

The walls of these bluffs rise perpendic- 
ularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish 
buff color, and are composed of layers, ap- 
parently sedimentary deposits of all thick- 
nesses, from that of a knife-blade to two 
feet. At the ba«e of the bluff the layers 
are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, 
with laminated sandstone, mud markings 
and other indications of shallow water or 
mud flats; color for 100 feet, ashen brown; 
next above are lighter colored layers, al- 
ternate with greenish layers, and fine 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



95 




CROSSING TRUCKEE RIVER, C. P. R.R. 



white sand. Passing up, clay and lime 
predominate, then come layers of bould- 
ers, pebbles, and small nodules. 

There are also seams of very fine black 
limestone, saturated with petroleum. Near 
the summit, under the shallow, calcareous 
sandstone, there are over fifty feet of shales 
that contain more or less of oily material. 
The hills all around are capped with a 
deep, rusty yellow sandstone, which pre- 
sents the peculiar castellated forms which, 
with the banded appearance, have given 
so much celebrity to the scenery about 
this station. 

The point where our photographer 
stood to take the picture, was about one- 
half mile below the bridge and immedi- 
ately opposite the mouth of the noted 
Bitter Creek, down which, in years past, 
rolled the wagons of the pioneer-emigrants 
of the far West, on their weary way 
seeking new El Dorarioes towards the set- 
tine: sun. 



Old Town— A short distance from the 
station to the southward is the site of the 
old deserted city of Green River, near the 
old emigrant crossing, and thereby hangs 
a tale. This city was laid out in July. 
1868, and the September following con- 
tained 2,000 inhabitants, and many sub- 
stantial wood and adobe buildings, and 
presented a permanent appearance. At 
that time it was thought by the citizens 
that the Railroad Company would certainly 
erect theii division buildings near the town, 
and it would become an important station 
in consequence. But the Railroad Com- 
pany opposed the Town Company, bridged 
the river, and as the road stretched away 
to the we^ward, the town declined as rap- 
idly as it arose, the people moving on to 
Bryan, at which place the Railroad Com- 
pany located their city — and sold lots. 

Geographical indications from the first 
pointed to the fact that the Railroad Com- 
pany must eventually select this place in 



96 



CROFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



preference to Bryan, which is now an ac- 
complished fact. 

Twenty Years Ago an important 
trading post was located near this station 
just below, on the opposite side of the 
river. In early days, the Mormons had a 
ferry here, and a; the river was seldom 
fordable — except late in the fall — they 
reaped a rich harvest of from $5 to $20 a 
team for crossing them over the river, ac- 
cording as the owners were found able to 
pay. Those times were comparatively 
only yesterday, and we might say with the 
juggler " Presto ! " and we have the " iron 
horse," and the long trains of magnificent 
palace cars, crossing the substantial rail- 
road bridge, conveying their hundreds of 
passengers daily — passengers ,from every 
land and clime — and whirling them across 
the continent from ocean to ocean, on 
schedule time. Do these passengers, while 
partaking of a princely meal, lying at ease 
sipping their wine, (or possibly ice water,) 
and smoking quietly their cigar, ever 
think of the hardy pioneers who toiled 
along on foot and alone, many times over 
seven months traveling the same distance 
that can now be made in fiv3 days f These 
pioneers suffered every kind of hardship, 
many even unto death, and those that re- 
main are fast passing away. Yet, the 
fruits of their adventurous and daring in- 
trepidity can be seen on every hand. 

Green River — This stream rises in 
the northwest portion of the Wind River 
Mountains, at the base of Fremont's Peak. 
The source of the river is found in innu- 
merable little streams, about 200 miles 
from the railroad crossing. About 150 
miles below the station the river empties 
into the Colorado River. The name 
"Green River" implies the color of the 
water, but one would hardly expect to be- 
hold a large, rapid river, whose waters 
possess so deep a hue. The river, for some 
distance up the stream, commencing about 
fifty miles above the station, runs through 
a soil composed of decomposed rock, 
slate, etc., which is very green, and easily 
washed and worn away, which accounts 
for the color of the water. At all seasons 
of the year the water is very good — the 
best, by far, of any found in this part of 
the country. The tributaries abound in 
trout of fine flavor, and the main 
river is well stocked with the finny tribe. 
Game of all kinds abound along the river 
and in the adjacent mountains. 

Fontenelle Creek comes into Green River 



40 miles north, and is specially noted for 
game, trout, etc. 

The lower stream presents a very marked 
feature, aside from the high bluffs of worn 
sandstone besides sedimentary deposits. 
These features are strongly marked, above 
the bridge, for several miles. 

From^Green River station, the first ex- 
ploring expedition of Maj. Powell started 
on the 24th of May, 1869. The party con- 
sisted of about a dozen well-armed, intrepid 
men, mostly Western hunters. They had 
four well-built boats, with which to explore 
the mysterious euud terrible canyons of 
Green River and the Colorado. These 
gorges were comparatively unknown, the 
abrupt mountain walls having turned the 
travel far from their sterile shores. Sci- 
ence and comm'irce demanded a solution 
of the question: " Can the upper Colorado 
be navigated?" and Maj. Powell under- 
took to solve the problem. 

The party en ( 'ountered hardships, dis- 
covered beautiful scenery, and in their re- 
port have thrown much light on the mys- 
teries of this heretofore not much traveled 
country. The result of the expedition af- 
forded the Major the materials for a course 
of lectures, and demonstrated the impor- 
tant fact that the Colorado canyon is not 
navigable. 

We hear that the Major has, since the 
above, made an expedition to the river, but 
are not informed as to the results. 

A wagon road leads north, up the east 
side of the river, over which a stage runs 
regularly to the 

Sweetwater Country — The principal 
cities are South Pass, Atlantic and Hamil- 
ton. They are situated four miles apart. 
The principal occupation of the citizens is 
quartz gold mining. Many of the mines 
are said to be very rich, but for some rea- 
son very unprofitable to work. The prin- 
cipal mines are on Sweetwater River, a trib- 
utary of Wind River, which passes through 
very rich mineral and agricultural coun- 
try. 

Wind River is a tributary of the Big 
Horn River, which empties into the Yel- 
lowstone. The streams abound in fish, in-* 
eluding trout of excellent flavor. The 
valleys and mountains furnish game in 
abundance, including deer, elk, antelope, 
mountain sheep, buffalo, cinnamon, brown, 
black and grizzly bears. 

Indian difficulties have retarded min- 
ing, agricultural, and business operations 
very much in the past. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



97 



Leaving the station, - 
we cross Green River 
on a fine bridge, the 
cars passing along 
through heavy cuts, 
almost over the river 
in places, affording a 
fine view of the frown- 
ing cliffs on the east 
side of the river. 
Twenty miles to the 
northwest a large bar- 
ren butte, pilot-knob, 
stands in isolated 
loneliness. Soon we 
turn to the left, leav- 
ing the river, and pass 
along a dreary barren 
waste for 13.4 miles, 
and arrive at 

Bryan— a desert- 
ed old station. The 
country around is bar- 
ren, composed of red 
sand, and uninviting 
in the extreme. We 
are again increasing 
our elevation. The 
road was completed 
to Bryan, Septem- 
ber, 1868, and large 
amounts of freight 
was delivered here to 
be re-shipped to the 
westward. From this 
station to the north- 
ward, it is 80 miles 
to the Pacific Springs 
on the old " California 
trail," and 90 miles 
to Sweetwater. 

At one time stages 
left this station for the 
Sweetwater country, 
but they have been 
transferred to Green 
River station. Freight 
for the Government 
posts, and country to 
the northward, Atlan- 
tic City, South Pass, opftarTteno 
&c, is hauled from •* ^™ >Fot " 
this station by wagon wl**"* 1 -'■'•'■ 
teams as of old. JJ 

Bryan, during its 
early days, was quite 
lively 



COMPILED FROM U.6.SOV? SUJCVEYS. 

OB 'BnCA flTg XOCATZOZr OS 1 c l ' Hl£ jaOESJST ttMOSgj 
MDTtMG-BISTRIQTa CO? THW COXTVXBTBJW, 

acwssoxa © iso ioxzjd a bobxh& s outh . 



and troubled, 
with" the usual number day 'use* 

7 




Virtue and honor are very nice for Sunday wear, but too rare for every 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



of roughs, gamblers and desperadoes. 
When the Vigilance Committee was in 
session here, in 1868, they waited on a 
noted desperado, and gave him 15 minutes 
to leave town. He mounted his mule and 
said: ''Gentlemen, if this d — m mule don't 
buck, I don't want but five." We com- 
mend his judgment, and consider that tor 
once u Ms head was level." 

Black's Fork is approached at this 
station. It rises in the Uintah Mountains, 
about 100 miles to the southwest, and emp- 
ties into Green River, below Green River 
City. The bottom lands of this river, for 
fifty miles above Bryan, are susceptible of 
irrigation, and are thought to be capable 
of raising small grains. 

Mars ton — is an unimportant station, 
7.6 miles from Bryan. Soon after passing 
the station, to the northward, the old Mor- 
mon trail from Johnson's Ford on Green 
River, 12 miles above Green River station, 
can be seen coming down a ravine. The 
route is marked for some distance by a 
line of telegraph poles which leads to 
Sweetwater. 

Soon after leaving this station, a fine 
view can be had to the left, south, of the 
Uintah range of mountains. The valley 
of the Beaver lays at the northern base of 
the range, and is one of the most produc- 
tive sections oi the territory ; corn, potatoes, 
vegetables, and small grain grow and yield 
abundantly. Beaver Creek, which flows 
through the valley, was named for the 
beavers that inhabit the creek. 

As early as 1825, Beaver Creek was 
known to Bridger and other trappers of 
the American Fur Co; in after years, it 
became the headquarters — for years at a 
time — of Jim Bridger and other trappers. 
Since trapping beaver has been aban- 
doned the increase in Beaver Creek has been 
wonderful. Immense dams are here to be 
seen, from four to six feet high, which 
flood many thousand acres. 

The streams of this section not only 
abound in beaver, but in fish — the trout 
here being abundant. 

Beyond the Uintah Range is the Great 
Valley of White Earth River, where is lo- 
cated the Ute Reservation. 

Granger — is 9.6 miles west of 
Marsion. The last seven and a half 
miles of track before reaching this station 
was laid down by Jack Caseman in one 
day. The station is named for an old set 
tier, Mr. Granger, who keeps a ranche 
near by. 



Just after leaving this station we cross a 
bridge over Ham's Fork, immediately at 
its junction with Black's Fork. 

Ham's Fork rises about forty miles to 
the northwest, in Hodge's Pass. The bot- 
tom lands of this stream are very pro- 
ductive of grass; the upper portion of the 
valleys, near the mountains, produce ex- 
cellent hay-crops. It is supposed that the 
small grains would flourish here under ir- 
rigation, but the experiment has not yet 
been tried on a large scale, though the 
whole valley can be irrigated with but lit- 
tle labor. 

In 1867, the Union Pacific Railroad 
Company surveyed a route from this point 
— Ham's Fork — via Salmon Falls, Old's 
Ferry on the Snake River, and Umatilla, 
to Portland, Oregon. The route, as sur- 
veyed, is 460 miles by railroad, 315 by 
steamboat. 

After crossing the bridge we leave 
Black's Fork, which bears aw r ay to the 
left, as also the old stage road, which fol- 
lows up that stream to Fort Bridger. Our 
course is due west, following up the bank 
of the Big Muddy, which we cross and re- 
cross several times before we reach Pied- 
mont, 50 miles ahead, where we shall 
leave it. The valley of the stream is nar- 
row, producing sage-brush and grease- 
wood in luxuriance, and possibly would 
produce good crops, with irrigation. 

Church Unites — is situated on Big 
Muddy Creek, just east of the crossing, in 
the midst of a sage-brush country. 

The station is 10.5 miles from Granger's, 
a noted place for moss agates. These 
beautiful stones are found along the line of 
the road from Green River to Piedmont, 
but in greater profusion here than at any 
other point near the road. 

In some places the ground is literally 
paved with these gems. The flinty boulders 
vary in size from a pea to about five inches 
in diameter. The outside of these pebbles 
is a dark gray and a greenish blue in spots. 
Should the reader conclude to stop over 
and hunt moss agates, our advice would be : 
take your time and a hammer with you ; 
crack the rocks and pebbles beneath your 
feet; and when you find cne of the agates, 
if it looks dull and rusty, do not throw it 
away in hopes of finding a prettier one ; for 
often the dull-looking stone, when rightly 
cut and dressed, is very beautiful and 
valuable. Most of the agates are valueless, 
but some are very beautiful, and will readily 
sell for from $50 to $75. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



99 



Church Buttes station 
derives its name from 
the peculiar formation of 
the sand - stone bluffs, 
which extend for many 
miles on the left-hand side 
of the road; they are 
about ten miles distant. 
At the Old Church Buttes 
station, on the old over- 
land stage road," — about 
nine miles to the south 
they rise in lofty domes 
and pinnacles, which, at a 
distance, resemble the flut- 
ed columns of some cath- 
edral of the olden time, 
standing in the midst of 
desolation; its lofty tur- 
reted roof and towering 
spires rising far above 
the surrounding country; 
but on nearer approach 
the scene changes, and 
we find a huge mass 
of sandstone, worn and 
washed by the elements 
until it has assumed the 
outline of a church of the 
grandest dimensions, it 
being visible for a great 
distance. Again we go 
westward 9. 4 miles to 

Hampton — a side track, with cattle 
pens and shute for loading them — large 
herds of which range in this section, on the 
hills and in the adjacent valleys. 

To the left, aft r leaving the station, we 
see high buttes of all fantastic shapes, 
showing water lines, which indicate that 
there has been "high water" here some 
time in the past. 

Carter — is 7 5 miles from the last 
station. About seven miles north, a large 
sulphur spring, and near it a calybeta 
spring has been discovered, and about 
fourteen miles further a mountain of coal ; 
the total thickness of the veins is 87 feet, 
traceable for twelve miles. A branch rail- 
road is contemplated to the coal bank, via 
the springs. 

This station is named for Judge Carter, of 
Brldger. This gentleman has a large ware- 
house at this point, where freight until re- 
cently*, was received and shipped to Vir- 
ginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, 
Montana Territory. This route was the 
shortest wagon route from the East, until the 
Utah Northern was extended to Blackfoot. 




JAMES BRIDGER — See following pags. 

The series of buttes that has been ob- 
served on our left below, continues, but 
are more of a uniform height — table-topped, 
with scrub cedars in the gulches and 
ravines. Some of these buttes look like 
immense railroad dumps, as they jet out 
into the valley, round and steep. 

On the right, the soil is red-clay, with 
some rocks of the same color. 

Fort Bridger— is ten miles east from 
this station, over the bluffs, out of sight, 
having been established in 1858, by General 
A. S. Johnson, latitude 41 deg. 18 min. and 
12 sec; longitude 110 deg. 32 min. and 38 
sec. 

Black's Fork, which runs through the 
center of the parade ground, affords ex- 
cellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a 
stream five miles southeast, affords as fine 
trout as there is in the country. 

The chief of the Shoshones, Wash-a-kie, 
whose picture will be found on page 
61, is almost always at this post. He is a 
very kind, honorable Indian, and has been 
the steadfast friend of the whites for many 
years. 



100 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



This post was named after James 
Bridger, the renouned hunter, trapper and 
guide, who lived in this country nearly 
half a century. (See portrait page 99.) 

u Jim " Bridger is undoubtedly the 
most noted of all the old plains men, and 
early pioneers in our far western country. 
Through the courtesy of W. A. Carter^ of 
Fort Bridger, we have been furnished with 
a fine picture of Mr. Bridger, end a short 
sketch of his eventful life — from which we 
condense : 

"Jim" was born in Richmond, Virginia 
— sometime about the last of the last cen- 
tury- — and while he was very small, his 
parents emigrated to St. Louis, Mo., where, 
shortly after their arrival, they both died 
of an epidemic then prevailing in that 
city. Having no one to look to or care for 
him, he engaged to accompany a party of 
trappers who were then fitting out for a 
trip to the Rocky Mountains. 

Entirely devoid of even the commonest ru- 
diments of education, he crossed the then 
almost wholly unknown and trackless 
plains, and plunged into the pathless 
mountains. Greatly attracted by the novelty 
of the sport, at that time quite profitable, 
he entered eagerly upon the business of 
trading in fur. Being naturally shrewd, and 
possessing a keen faculty of observation, he 
carefully studied the habits of the beaver, 
and profiting by the knowledge obtained 
from the Indians — with whom he chiefly 
associated, and with whom he became a 
great favorite — he soon became one of the 
most expert trappers and hunters in the 
mountains. 

Eager to satisfy his curiosity, a natural 
fondness for mountain scenery, and a rov- 
ing disposition, he traversed the country in 
every direction, sometimes in company 
with Indians, but oftener alone ; he famil- 
iarized himself with every mountain peak, 
every gorge, every hill, and every land- 
mark in the country. He pursued his trap- 
ping expeditions north to the British Pos- 
sessions, south to Mexico, and west to the 
Pacific Ocean. In this way be became 
acquainted with all the tribes of Indians in 
the country, and by long intercourse with 
them, learned their language and became 
familiar with all their signs. He adopted 
their habits, conformed to their customs, 
became imbued with all their superstitions, 
and at length excelled them in strategy. 
The marvelous stories told by Bridger are 
numerous, but we have not the space for a 
" specimen." In after years, when it be- 



came necessary to send millitary expedi- 
tions through the far western country, the 
Government employed Bridger as a guide, 
and his experience was turned to good ac- 
count as an interpreter of Indian languages. 

Mr. Bridger died in 1875, near Kansas 
City, Mo., having outlived the sphere of 
his usefulness, there being no longer any 
portion of the West unexplored, and hav- 
ing reached the period of second childhood. 

As this post is one of great historic in- 
terest, we publish, in our Annex No. 17. 
Memories of Fort Bridger. To the next 
station it is 9.5 miles, and is named after 
that old hunter and trapper, 

Bridger — and it is as unpretentious as 
the original. Scrub cedar in ttie high rocky 
bluffs, sage-brush, red sandstone and red 
clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is 
the make-up of the surrounding country. 
It is inhabited by a few wood-choppers, 
some stock men, with herds of cattle and 
sheep, a few deer, antelope, coyotes and 
j ack rabbits by the thousands. For agricul- 
tural purposes, it is in a high state of deso- 
lation. 

For the next three stations we shall 
ascend rapidly, The bluffs are nearer, and 
we cross and re-cross the " Muddy " very 
often, the little stream being nearly as 
crooked as the streets in Boston. 

A few miles beyond, on the left, is a 
towering cliff, which comes to a point, near 
the road, on the side of which are some 
notable water-lines. 

This cliff is about 500 feet in height, and 
where it comes to a point is pulpit-shaped, 
and is known as Pluto's Outlook. A little 
further south -is his Majesty's Stone-Yard, to 
which the railroad company, years ago, 
laid a track for the purpose of using the 
flat stone which lay around scattered all 
over the "yard," but here a difficulty 
seems to have arisen. The masons re- 
ported that the stone was " bedeviled," 
and would not lay still; when the stone 
was laid flat in their work, the next 
morning they would be found on the 
edge ; when laid on the edge and left alone 
for a few moments, they were found flat- 
ways. This state of things so alarmed the 
masons that they abandoned their work 
and the country, and it is not known what 
has become of them. 

L<eroy — a side-track, is five mile's from 
Bridger. Near here the old overland road 
comes down the mountains, crossing the 
railroad to the west, at Burns' old ranche, 
the route marked by the line of telegraph 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



101 



poles. Three miles west, on this stage road, 
are the soda springs. 

Piedmont — is ten miles from Le- 
roy ; there are a few dozen buildings in 
sight. The principal business in which 
the people are engaged is the burning of 
charcoal for shipment to smelting fur- 
naces in Salt Lake Valley. There are five 
patent kilns close to the left of the road, 
the wood being hauled from the Uintah 
Mountains to the southward, from 15 to 20 
miles distant. 

Leaving the station, look ahead from the 
left side, at the track and snow-sheds. The 
grade is very heavy, the country is rough 
and broken, and the road is veiy crooked, al- 
most doubling back on itself in places. 
The track is laid over many long and high 
trestle bridges, all of which have been filled 
in with dirt, within the last six years. 

Before reaching the next station, our 
train will pass through five long snow- 
sheds. The small houses near the sheds 
are the' habitations of the watchmen who 
have them in charge. These sheds are 
built very tight to prevent fine snow from 
sifting ' through, which causes them to 
be quite dark. From Piedmont, it is 9.4 
miles to 

Aspen — a side-track. Lumber piles 
and water-tank make up the place. This 
station is next in height to Sherman, on 
the line of the Union Pacific. Elevation, 
7,835 feet ; is 97.7 miles from San Francisco, 
and 937 from Omaha, situated on the low- 
est pass over the Uintah Mountains. 

The station derives its name from the 
high mountain to the north, called "Quak- 
ing Asp." The summit of this mountain 
is covered with snow during most oi the 
year. The "quaking asp," or aspen, a 
species of poplar, grows in profusion in 
the gulches and on the sides of the moun- 
tain. The old overland stage road 
winds around the northern base, while the 
railroad girds its southern borders, nearly 
encircling it between the old and new ; de- 
cay and death marking the one, life, energy 
and growing strength, the other. 

Leaving Aspen, the grade is downward 
to Salt Lake Valley. After rolling through 
two long snow-sheds and five miles of 
road, we are at 

Milliard — population 400. At this 
station business can be felt in the air. A 
" V " flume crosses the railroad track — 20 
feet above it— in which immense quanti- 
ties of lumber, ties, * telegraph poles, cord- 
wood, etc., are floated down from the pine- 



ries of the Uintah Mountains, from 20 to 
30 miles distant, south. Just to the right 
of the station are located long rows of 
Harvey's patent bee-hive kilns, for burn- 
ing charcoal. There are about 30 of 
them, of two different sizes, some with a 
capacity for 20 and some 40 cords of wood. 
These kilns can each be tilled and burned 
three times a month, and from 20 cords of 
wood 1,000 bushels of charcoal is pro- 
duced. This coal is mostly shipped to 
smelting furnaces, to the westward — Salt 
Lake City, Virginia City, Eureka, San 
Francisco, etc. One smelting furnace was 
erected here — at the coal — during the year 
1877. 

Sulphur springs are located opposite 
the station, to the north and south, from 10 
to 25 miles distant, but they are getting too 
common to require a description; and 
then, owing to late teachings, they pos- 
sess little interest to our readers. 

Two miles from Hilliard, to the right 
of the road, we come to the site of old 
Bear River City, of early railroad days, 
but now entirely deserted. It is situated 
in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, 
where the old overland stage road comes 
down from the north of Quaking Asp 
Mountain. At one time this place was 
quite populous, and was supposed likely 
to become a permanent town. At this 
point the roughs and gamblers, who had 
been driven from point to point westward, 
made a stand, congregating in large num- 
bers. They swore that they would be 
driven no further ; that here they would 
stay, and fight it out to the bitter end. 
The town contained about 1,000 law-abid- 
ing people, and when the roughs felt that 
trouble was coming on them, they with- 
drew to the hills and organized for a raid 
on the town. Meanwhile some of the 
roughs remained in the town, and among 
them were three noted garroters, who had 
added to their long list of crimes that of 
murder. The citizens arose, seized and 
hung them. In this act they were sus- 
tained by all law-abiding people, also by 
the Index, a paper which had followed the 
road, but was then published here. This 
hastened the conflict, and on the 19th of 
November, 1868, the roughs attacked the 
town in force. This attack was repulsed 
by the citizens, though not until the Bear 
River riot had cost sixteen lives, including 
that of one citizen. The mob first attacked 
and burned the jail, taking thence one of 
their kind who was confined there. They 



102 



CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



next sacked the office and destroyed the ma- 
terial of the Frontier Index, which was sit- 
uated in a building close to the railroad, on 
the south side. Elated with their success, 
the rnob, numbering about 300 well-armed 
desperadoes, marched over to the north side, 
up the main street, and made an attack on a 
store belonging to one of the leading mer- 
chants. Here they were met with a vol- 
ley from Henry rifles, in the hands of 
brave and determined citizens, who had 
collected in the store. The mob was 
thrown into confusion, and fled down the 
street, pursued by the citizens, about thirty 
in number. The first volley and the run- 
ning fight left fifteen of the desperadoes 
dead on the street. The number of 
wounded was never ascertained, but sev- 
eral bodies were afterwards found in the 
gulches and among the rocks, where they 
had crawled away and died. One citizen 
was slain in the attack on the jail. From 
this time the roughs abandoned the city. 

The town declined as soon as the road 
was built past it, and now there is nothing 
left to mark the place, except a few old 
chimneys, broken bottles and scattered 
oyster cans. Passing on, the bluffs are 
high and broken, coming close to the road, 
leaving but a narrow valley, until we reach 

Millis— a side-track, four miles from 
Hilliard. Soon after passing Millis, we 
come to the valley of Bear River, down 
which we run for two miles aud cross that 
river on a trestle bridge, 600 feet in length. 

Bear River — This stream rises about 
sixty miles to the south in the Uintah and 
Wasatch Mountains. It has many tribu- 
taries, which abound in very fine trout — 
and quite a business is carried on in catch- 
ing and salting Ihem for the trade. The 
river here runs almost due north, to Port 
Neuf G-ap. Before reaching the G-ap, it 
comes to Bear Lake, from which it takes 
its name. The lake is about 15 miles 
long by seven wide, and contains plenty of 
trout and other fish. There are some 
pretty Mormon settlements at different 
points along the river and lake shore. 

The Upper Bear Lake Valley is a point 
of great interest on account of the fertility 
of the soil, its romantic situation, the 
beautiful and grand scenery of rock, lake 
and mountain in that neighborhood. The 
valley lies in Rich county, the most north- 
ern county in Utah Territory, and is about 
25 miles long, with a varying width. 

At Port Neuf Gap, the river turns, and 
thence its course is nearly due south, until 



it empties into Great Salt Lake, near the 
town of Corinne. The course of the 
river can best be understood when we say 
that it resembles the letter U in shape. 
From where it rises it runs due north to 
latitude 42 deg, 30 min., then suddenly 
turning, it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 
43 min., before it finds the lake. Within 
this bend lies the Wasatch Mountains, a 
spur of the Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold, 
but narrow range. 

The entire region is wild and pictur- 
esque, and would well repay the tourist tor 
the time spent in visiting it. About sixty 
miles distant, to the north, are the far-famed 
Soda Springs, of Idaho, situated in Oneida 
county, Idaho Territory. 

The Old route, by which this northern 
country was reached, was from Ogden, 
via Ogden Canyon and Ogden Valley; 
now the best route is via Utah Northern 
railroad to Franklin, and from thence 
east ; see further on. 

We now return to the road, and pass 
down the valley, cross Yellow Creek, one 
of the tributaries of Bear River, and 9.5 
miles from Millis, arrive at 

Kvanwton — This is a regular eating 
station, where trains from the East and 
West stop 30 minutes for dinner; the wait- 
ers are Chinese. — The meals, good. 

Evanston is the county seat of Uintah 
county, Wyoming, 957 miles from either 
Omaha or San Francisco— just half way 
between the Missouri River and the Pa- 
cific Ocean. The Railroad Company have 
erected a20-stall round-house, repair shops, 
hotel, freight and passenger buildings, 
and the place has improved otherwise 
very much. It now contains about 1,200 
white and about 150 Chinese inhabitants. 
The town boasts of some good buildings — 
including a fine court-house. The Age, a 
weekly newspaper, is published here. 

The citizens of Evanston are mostly en- 
gaged in lumbering, coke-burning, coal- 
mining and stock-raising. 

The railroad was completed to this point 
late in the fall of 1868, and a large amount 
of freight was delivered here for Salt Lake 
Valley and Montana. Saw-mills supply 
lumber from the almost inexhaustible 
pine forests on Bear River to the south- 
ward. 

About three miles east to the right of the 
road, and of Bear River Valley, is located 
the town of 

Alma — Here are located some of the 
most valuable coal mines on the road, and 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



103 



which supply large quantities to the rail- 
road company. The mines are said to be 
very extensive, easity worked, yielding coal 
of good quality, and employ about 800 men, 
most of whom are Chinese. From 150 to 
200 car loads are Shipped from Alma per 
day to towns on the line of the Central Pa- 
cific railroad, to Virginia City, Gold Hill, 
and Carson in Nevada and to San Fran- 
cisco. A branch railroad has been con- 
structed to the mines, leading off about 
half a mile ni.rth of Evanston. 

Soon after leaving Evanston we leave 
Bear River to the right, ard follow up a 
beautiful little valley eleven miles to 

^Vasatch — This station was once a 
regular eating station, with round-house 
and machine shops of the company located 
here, but a change has been made to 
Evanston, and the place is now deserted. 

Four miles west we cross the dividing 
line between Wyoming and Utah Territo- 
ries. It is marked by a sign-board beside 
the road, on which is painted on one side, 
" Wyoming," the other " Utah." 

Game is found in the hills— deer, elk, 
and antelope — and in the Uintah and Wa- 
satch ranges, brown, black and cinnamon 
bear are common, and in all the little 
streams, fish of different kinds are abun- 
dant — trout 'particularly. 

On leaving Wasatch, we arrive at the 
divide and Lead of Echo Canon, one-half 
mile distant. Here we find the longest 
tunnel on the road, 770 feet in length, cut 



through hard red clay and sandstone. 
When the tunnel was completed, it was ap- 
proached from the east by two long pieces 
of trestle-work, one of which was 230 feet 
long and 30 feet high ; the other 450 feet 
long and 75 feet high, which have since 
been filled in with earth. The tunnel 
opens to the westward, into a beautiful 
little canyon, with a narrow strip of grassy 
bottom land on either side of a miniature 
stream, known as the North Fork of Echo. 
The hills are abrupt, and near the road, 
leaving scarcely more than room for a 
roadway, including ihe grassy land re- 
ferred to. Along these bluffs, on the left- 
hand side of the stream, the road-bed has 
been made by cutting down the sides of 
the hills and filling hollows, in some pla- 
ces from 50 to 75 feet deep. 

Before the tunnel was completed, the 
road was laid temporarily from the divide 
into Echo Canyon by a Z or zigzag track, 
which let the cars down to the head of the 
canyon — under the trestles above named. 
The great difficulty to overcome by the 
railroad company in locating the road 
from this point into Salt Lake Valley was 
the absence of spurs or sloping hills to 
carry the grade. Every thing seems to 
give way at once, and pitch headlong away 
to the level of the lake. The rim, or 
outer edge, of the table-lands, breaks ab- 
ruptly over, and the streams which make 
out from this table-land, instead of keep- 
ing their usual grade, seem to cut through 




" PRICKEY,'' THE PET HORNED TOAD OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

See Annex No. 52. 



104 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



the rim and drop into the valley below, 
there being no uplands to carry them. 

By the present line of road, the cars 
enter Echo Canyon proper at the little sta- 
tion of 

Castle Rock— 8.4 miles from 
Wasatch. This station derives its name 
from the long line of sandstone bluffs on 
the right-hand side of the canyon, which 
are worn and torn away until, in the dis- 
tance, they have the appearance of the old 
feudel castles, so often spoken of, but so 
seldom seen, by modern tourists. For a 
long distance these rocks line the right- 
hand bank of the canyon, their massive 
red sandstone fronts towering from 500 to 
1,500 feet above the little valley, and bear- 
ing the general name of " Castle Rocks." 

The cars descend the canyon amid some 
of the grandest and wildest scenery imag- 
inable. We do not creep along as though 
we mistrusted our powers, but with a snort 
and roar the engine plunges down the de- 
file, which momentarily increases to a 
gorge, only to become, in a short distance, 
a grand and awful chasm. About 7.2 
miles below Castle Rock, the traveler can 
behold the Natural Bridge, a conglomerate 
formation, spanning a cleft in the wall on 
the right-hand side. This 

Hanging; Rock— of Echo has more 
than a local reputation — see illustration, 
page 39. It gave the name to one of the 
overland stage stations, when the comple- 
tion of this road was — but in the dreams of 
its sanguine projectors — an undefined and 
visionary thing of the future. 

The left hand side of the canyon pre- 
sents but few attractions compared with the 
bolder and loftier bluffs opposite. The 
wall breaks away and recedes in sloping, 
grassy hillsides, while we know not what 
lies beyond these walls to the right, for 
they close the view in that direction. 
Wall, solid wall, broken wall, walls of 
sandstone, walls of granite, and walls of a 
conglomerate of both, mixed with clay, 
rise far above us, and shut from our vision 
whatever lies beyond. 

The beauties " of Echo Canyon are so 
many, so majestic, so awe-inspiring in their 
sublimity, that there is little use in calling 
the traveler's attention to them. But as we 
rush swiftly along, seemingly beneath these 
towering heights, we can note some of the 
more prominent features. 

The only difficulty will be that one will 
hardly see them all, as the cars thunder 
along, waking the echoes among these 



castellated monuments of red rock, whose 
towering domes and frowning buttresses 
gave the name to this remarkable opening 
in the Wasatch Mountains. Four miles 
below Hanging Rock the walls rise in 
massive majesty — the prominent features 
of the canyon. Rain, wind and time have 
combined to destroy them, but in vain. 
Centuries have come and gone since that 
mighty convulsion shook the earth to its 
center, when Echo -and Weber canyons 
sprung into existence — twin children — 
whose birth was heralded by throes such 
as the earth may never feel again, and still 
the mighty wall of Echo remains, bidding 
defiance alike to time and his co-laborers — 
the elements ; still hangs the delicate fret 
and frost work from the walls; still the 
pillar, column, dome and spire stand boldly 
forth in all their grand, wild and weird 
beauty to entrance the traveler, and fill his 
mind with wonder and awe. 

About six miles below Hanging Rock, 
up on the topmost heights of the towering 
cliffs, a thousand feet above the bed of the 
canyon, can be seen the fortifications 
erected by the Mormons to defend this 
pass against the army under Johnson, sent 
out in 1857 by Uncle Sam. These fortifi- 
cations consist of massive rocks, placed on 
the verge of the precipice, which were to 
be toppled over on the heads of the sol- 
diers below, but the experiment was never 
made, so the rocks remain to be used on 
some other foe, or as the evidences of a 
people's folly. 

On goes the engine, whirling us past 
castle, cathedral, towering column and 
rugged battlement, past ravines which cut 
the walls from crest to base in awful 
chasms, shooting over bridges and flying 
past and under the overhanging walls (see 
Steamboat Rock, Annex No. 19), when, 
after crossing Echo Creek, thirty-one times 
in twenty-six miles, we rush past the 
Witches' Cave and Pulpit Rock, our en- 
gine giving a loud scream of warning to 
the brakemen, who "throwing on the 
brakes," bring the train to a stop, and we 
get out once more to examine the country, 
Weber River and Echo City station. 

Before we take a final leave of Echo 
Canyon we will relate an incident, thrill- 
ing in its nature, but happily ending with- 
out serious results, which occurred there 
during the construction of the road from 
Echo City to the mouth of Weber, and is 
known as " Paddy Miles' Ride." — see An- 
nex No. 20. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



105 



Directly ahead of our train, as it emerges 
from Echo Canyon, coming in from the 
south, is 

Weber River — This stream rises in 
the Wasatch Mountains, 70 miles to the 
south, its waters heing supplied by thou- 
sands of springs, many larger tributaries, 
and the everlasting snows of this rugged 
mountain range. It empties into the 
Great Salt Lake, just below Ogden, about 
50 miles from Echo City. The valley of 
the Weber, from Echo City up to its 
source, is very fertile, and thickly settled 
by the Mormons. Three miles above this 
station is Chalk Creek, where a fine coal- 
bank has been discovered. Three miles 
beyond this point is Coalville, a Mormon 
settlement of 800 inhabitants— a thriving 
village. Its name is derived from the 
carbon iferious formations existing there. 
The coal-beds are extensive, some of the 
veins being of good quality, others being 
lignite. The Summit County railroad, a 
narrow-gauge, is completed * from Echo 
City to Coalville, seven miles, with a 
branch to an extensive coal mine, five 
miles further. The track leaves Echo City 
and passes along close below the Union 
track at Pulpit Rock. 

Seven miles beyond Coalville is the 
pleasant village of Winship, situated at the 
junction of Silver Creek and Weber River, 
containing 1,000 inhabitants. The "old 
stage road" followed up Weber to this 
point, thence up Silver Creek via Parley 
Park, and thence to Salt Lake City, 50 



miles distant from Echo. 

Parley Park— This is a beautiful val- 
ley on the old stage road, about five miles 
long by three miles wide. It is very fer- 
tile, producing fine crops of small grain. 
Several hundred settlers have located and 
made themselves homes. There is a fine 
hotel, once kept as a stage station, now 
kept by William Kimball, eldest son of 
Keber C. Fish, in any desired quantity, 
can be caught in the streams, and game of 
many varieties, including deer and bears, 
inhabit the adjoining mountains. It is one 
of those pleasant places where one loves 
to linger, regrets to leave, and longs to 
visit again. We advise tourists to visit it ; 
they will not regret a week or a month 
among the hills and streams of the Upper 
Weber. Near this point gold and silver 
mines have been discovered— which prove 
very rich, chief of which is the Ontario 
Mine, the most productive in Utah, and 
the prospects now are that the " Park " will 
become a great mining center. Re 
turning, we stop a few moments at 

Echo City— The town is situated at 
the foot of th*e bluff, which towers far 
above it, 9.4 miles from Hanging Rock. 
As the cars enter the city from Echo Can- 
yon, they turn to the right, and close at the 
base of the cliff', on the right, stands Pulpit 
Rock (see illustration) and the old stage 
ranche on the left, just where it appears 
that we must pitch off" into the valley and 
river below. This city is not very inviting, 
unless you like to hunt and fish, when a 







1 H I " ;s «»««ffl' 






PULPIT ROCK, MOUTH OF ECHO CANYON, UTAH. 



106 



mOFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



stay of a few days would be passed very 
pleasantly. 

Chalk Creek, Silver Creek, Echo Creek, 
and Weber River, afford excellent trouting, 
while antelope are shot near the city. The 
mountains abound in bears, deer and elk. 

Echo contaius about 200 inhabitants, in- 
cluding those settlers near by and the rail- 
road employes. Coal beds, extensive ones, 
are found near by, as well as an indefinite 
quantity of iron ore, which must possess a 
market value, sooner or later. 

Near Echo City, across the Weber, a 
ravine leads up the mountain side, wind- 
ing and turning around among the gray 
old crags, until it leads into a beautiful 
little dell, in the center of which reposes 
a miniature lakelet, shut in on all sides by 
the hills. It is a charming, beautiful, 
tiny little gem, nestled amid a gray, grand 
setting of granite peaks and pine-clad 
gorges— a speck of delicate etherealized 
beauty amid the strength and ruggedness 
of a coarser world. 

Weber Canyon — To give a minute de- 
scription of this remarkable place we can- 
not attempt, as it would fill a volume 
were its beauties fully delineated, and each 
point of interest noted. But as one of the 
grand and remarkable features of the road 
it demands a notice, however meager, at 
our hands. For about 40 miles the river 
rushes foaming along, between two mas- 
sive mounlain walls, which close the land- 
scape on either hand. Now, the torrent 



plunges over some mighty rock which has 
fallen from the towering cliff 1,000 i'eet 
above; aoon, it whirls around in frantic 
struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, 
thence springing forward over a short, 
smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge 
again and again, until it breaks forth into 
the plains, whence it glides away toward 
the lake, as though exhausted with its wild 
journey through the canyon. 

In passing down the canyon, the traveler 
should closely watch, for fresh objects of 
wonder and interest will spring suddenly 
into sight on either hand. 

From Echo City, the cars speed along 
the banks of the Weber for about four 
miles, when they enter the Narrows of 
Weber Canyon, through which the road is 
cut for two miles, most of the way in the 
side of the steep mountain that drops its 
base in the river-bed. 

Soon after leaving Echo City, on the 
right, about 100 yards from the road, and 
300 feet above it, can be seen the " Wiches' 
Rocks," a collection of red, yellow and 
gray conglomerate rocks, standing out 
from the side of the cliff, varying in height 
from 20 to 60 feet. Shortly after entering 
the Narrows, the 

One Thousand Mile Tree is passed — 
a thrifty, branching pine — bearing on its 
trunk a sign-board that tells the western- 
bound traveler that he has passed over 
1,000 miles of railwny from Omaha, This 
living milestone of nature's planting has 




ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, U. P. R. R. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



107 




INTERIOR VIEW OF MORMON TABERNACLE. 



long marked this place ; long before the 
hardy Mormon passed clown this wild 
gorge; long before the great trans-conti- 
nental railroad was even thought of. It 
stood a lonely sentinal, when all around 
was desolation ; when the lurking savage 
and wild beast claimed supremacy, and 
each in turn reposed in the shade of its 
waving arms. How changed the scene ! 
The ceaseless bustle of an active, progres- 
sive age, the hum of labor, the roar and 
rush of the passing locomotive, has usurped 
the old quiet, and henceforward the Lone 
Tree will be,not a guide to 'he gloomy past, 
but an index of the coming greatness of a 
regenerated country. 

Just below this tree, the cars cross a tres- 
tle bridge to the left bank of the Weber, 
thence down but a short distance, before 
they cross over another trestle to the right- 
hand side, and then, almost opposite the 
bridge, on the side of the mountain to the 
left, can be seen the 

Devil's Slide, or serrated rocks. This 
slide is composed of two ridges of granite 
rock, reaching from the river nearly to the 
summit of a sloping, grass-clad moun- 
tain. They are from 50 to 200 feet high, 
narrow slabs, standing on edge, as though 
forced cut of the mountain side. The two 
ridges run parallel with each other— about 
10 feet apart, the space between being cov- 
ered with grass, wild flowers and climbing 
vines. (See illustration, page 33.) 



Rushing swiftly along past 
Weber Quarry — an unimportant 
side-track, 8.5 miles from Echo City, we 
soon lose sight of these rocks and behold 
others more grand, of different shapes, and 
massive proportions. The mountains 
seem to have been dovetailed together, and 
then torn rudely asunder, leaving the 
rough promontories and rugged chasms 
as so many obstacles to bar our progress. 
But engineering skill has triumphed over 
all. Where the road could not be built 
over or around these points, it is tunneled 
under. Now we shoot across the river, 
and dart through a tunnel 550 feet long, 
cut in solid rock, with heavy cuts and Alls 
at either entrance. Just before entering 
this tunnel, high up to the left, formerly 
stood " Finger Rock," as seen in the illus- 
tration (page 43), but which has been 
broken away, so as not to be visible 
now. The frowning cliffs bar our further 
way, and again we cross the roaring tor- 
rent and burrow under the point of an- 
other rocky promontory. Here the road 
stretches across a pretty little valley, 
known as Round Valley. 

Dashing along, with but a moment to 
spare in which to note its beauties, we 
enter the narrowing gorge again, where 
the massive walls close in and crush out 
the green meadows. Between these-lofty 
walls, with barely room for the track be- 
tween them and the foaming torrent at our 



108 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



feet; on, around a jotting point— and again 
we emerge into a lengthened widening of 
the canyon, and we pause for a moment at 

Weber— seven miles from Quarry. 
This station lies between two Mormon 
settlements, which, taken in connection, 
are called Morgan City. The villages are 
separated by the river which flows through 
bottom lands, most of which are under 
cultivation ; population about 1 ,000. There 
are some good buildings of brick and 
stone, but the greater number are of logs 
and adobe — sun-dried bricks. At this sta- 
tion, opposite the depot, the first Z. C. M. 
I. appears, which, in Mormon rendering, 
means " Zion's Co-operative Mercantile In- 
stitution " — a retail branch of the great 
co-operative house in Salt Lake City. 

This valley shows the effects of irriga- 
tion in Utah. Wherever the land is below 
the irrigating canals, and is cultivated, it 
yields immense crops. Grass grows all 
the way to the summit — and on the sum- 
mit — of nearly all these mountains, afford- 
ing the best of pasturage all the year 
round, as the fall of snow is light, 
and enough of what does fall is blown off 
by the wind, so that cattle and sheep can 
find sufficient for their needs at all seasons. 
The same may be said of the whole 
slope of the mountains of Utah at the 
same altitude. 

Game of all kinds is numerous through- 
out the same section, and trout exceedingly 
plenty, even in the tinyest little streams. 
The road follows down the right-hand 
bank through this valley until just below 

Peterson — a small, unimportant sta- 
tion, 9.7 miles from Weber, when it 
crosses to the left-hand side, which it fol- 
lows for four miles further, between tow- 
ering mountains, the valley now lost in the 
narrow, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the 
whistle shrieks the pass-word as we ap- 
proach the 

l>evil's Gate— a mere side-track, 
soon after leaving which, the brink of the 
torrent is neared, and the wild scenery of 
the Devil's Gate is before us. Onward 
toils the long train through a deep cut and 
across the bridge — 50 feet above the seeth- 
ing cauldron of waters, where massive, 
frowning rocks rear their crests far up 
toward the black and threatening clouds 
which hover over this witches' cauldron. 
With bated breath we gaze on this wild 
scene, and vainly try to analyze our feel- 
ings, in which awe, wonder, and admira- 
tion are blended. We have no time for 



thought, as to how or when this mighty 
work was accomplished, no time nor in- 
clination to compare the work of nature 
with the puny work beneath us, but on- 
ward, with quickened speed, down the 
right-hand bank of the stream ; on betwef n 
these massive piles, worn and seamed in 
their ceaseless struggles against the de- 
stroying hand of time ; on to where yon 
opening of light marks the open country ; 
on, past towering mountain and toppling 
rock, until we catch a view of the broad, 
sunlit plains, and from the last and 
blackest of the buttresses which guard the 
entrance into Weber, we emerge to light 
and beauty, to catch the first view of the 
Great Salt Lake, to behold broad plains 
and well-cultivated fields which stretch 
their lines of waving green and golden 
shades beyond 

I in tab Station— We have now 
passed through the Wasatch Mountains, 
and are fairly in the Great Salt Lake Val- 
ley. The elevation at this point is 4,560 
feet, 2,319 feet lower than Wasatch, 58 
miles to the eastward. Uintah is 4.5 
miles from the Devil's Gate. 

Near the station, on this broad bottom, 
in 1862, was the scene of the Morrisite 
massacre. 

Here 500 men of Brigham Young's 
Mormon Region, and 500 men who volun- 
teered fur the occasion, with live pieces of 
artillery, commanded by Robert T. Bur- 
ton, attacked the '• Morrisites," and after 
three days' skirmish! ug, and after a score 
or more had been killed, the " Morrisites " 
surrendered. The noble Burton, after the 
surrender, took possession of cveiything 
he could find in the name of the Church ; 
shot down their leader, Joseph Morris — 
an apostate Mormon — whose only fault 
was that he claimed to be the true Prophet 
of God, instead of Brigham Young. This 
man Burton, at the same time shot and 
killed two women who dared to beg him to 
save the life of their Prophet. 

The followers of Morris consisted of 
about 90 able-bodied men, mostly unarmed, 
and over 300 old men, women and chil- 
dren. The prisoners were all taken to 
Salt Lake City, and condemned, and those 
who were able to work had their legs or- 
namented with a ball and chain, and were 
put to picking stone to build the Mormon 
temple. On the 9th of March, 1863, these 
parties were all pardoned by Hon. S. S. 
Harding, who had that spring arrived in 
Utah as Governor of the Territory. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



109 



Leaving Uintah, the road winds around 
to the right and follows the base of the 
mountains, with the river on the left. The 
country is fertile and dotted with well- 
tilled farms. As we run along down the 
Weber River, and 7.5 miles from Uintah, 
we reach 

Ogden — the j unction of Union and Cen- 
tral Pacific railroads. The distance from 
Omaha is 1,032 miles; from San Francisco 
882 miles; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles; 
elevation, 4,301 feet. Near the station 
building are the depots of the Utah Cen- 
tral and the Utah Northern railroads. 

All passengers, baggage, mail, and ex- 
press, " change cars " at this station. Pas- 
sengers who have through tickets in sleep- 
ing cars will occupy the same numbers in 
the Central as they had in the Union, and 
those who had their baggage checked 
through need give it no attention; but 
those who only checked to this place — to 
the end of the U. P. road — will need to 
see that it is re-checked . At this station, 
trains stop a full hour, and sometimes a 
little longer — much depending upon the 
amount of matter to be changed from one 
train to another. 

The station building stands between the 
tracks, in which passengers will find a 
dining room, where they can have ample 
time to eat a good "square meal " — price 
$1 .00. Most of the buildings at the station 
are of wood, but the necessary grounds 
have been secured near by for the erection 
of a "Union Depot." When will it be 
done? Quien sabe? 

Ogden City is situated one miles east 
from the , depot, at the mouth of Ogden 
Canyon, one of the gorges which pierce 
the Wasatch range, and between the Weber 
and Ogden rivers. Population, about 
6,500. This is the county seat of W r eber 
county, and has amply provided itself with 
all needful county buildings. The Mor- 
mons have a tabernacle, and several other 
denominations have places of worship 
here. The citizens are mostly Mormon, 
and all public improvements are under 
their supervision. It is a poor place for 
" carpet-baggers." 

The waters of the Ogden River are con- 
ducted through the streets, and used in the 
gardens and fields for irrigating, the re- 
sult of which is that the city is in the 
midst of one great flower garden and for- 
est of fruit and shade trees. In the gar- 
dens are fruit trees of all kinds, which 
bear abundantly, and in the fields are 



raised immense crops of grain and vege- 
tables. 

Rich mines of iron, silver and slate 
are reported near the city, but little has 
been done towards developing them. 

Ogden has several good hotels, chief of 
which is the Utah House. Two news- 
papers are published here, the Daily Junc- 
tion and the Freeman, weekly. 

The Wasatch Mountains rise some thou- 
sands of feet above the city, and the tourist 
would find much of interest in a stroll up 
the mountain side and along the canyons. 
Ogden Canyon is about five miles long, and 
from its mouth to its source, from plain to 
mountain top, the scenery is grand and im- 
posing. In places the granite walls rise on 
each side 1,500 feet high, and for a consid- 
erable distance not more than 150 feet apart. 
About six miles from Ogden, up in the 
mountains behind the town, is a lovely lit- 
tle valley called " The Basin," waiered by 
mountain streams and covered with a lux- 
uriant growth of grass. 

Before proceeding further, we will take a 
hasty glance at 

Utah Territory. 

This territory extends from the 37th to 
the 42d parallel of north latitude, and from 
the 109th to the 114th degree of west longi- 
tude, containing a superficial area of about 
65,000 square miles, with a population of 
about 130,000 whites, Indians and Chinese. 
This area includes large tracts of wild 
mountainous and barren country. At pres- 
ent, most of the lands under cultivation 
and the meadow lands are around the 
lakes and in the neighboring mountain val- 
leys, and are very productive when irri- 
gated ; grains, fruits and vegetables matur- 
ing readily, and yielding large returns — 
the aridity of the climate precluding the 
growing of crops by any other means. 

Opposite title page of this book, see illus- 
tration — Utah's Best Crop. 

Rich veins of gold, silver, coal, iron, cop- 
per, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, and nearly 
all the metals found in the " Great West," 
exist in Utah, and it is the opinion of most 
men, had it not been for the " Councils" of 
Brigham Young to his followers, the Mor- 
mons, not to prospect for minerals, Utah 
might to-day be an honored State, in the 
great family of States, with a developed 
mineral wealth, second only to California, 
and possibly the first. The whole country 
within her borders would be illuminated 



110 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



with the perpetual fires of her " smelting 
furnaces," and resound with the thundering 
echoes and re-echoes of the thousands of de- 
scending stamps grinding out the wealth, 
which, since the completion of the Pacific 
railroad, and the consequent influx of 
" Gentiles " has been exported by mil- 
lions and most effectually demonstrated the 
fact that Utah, if not the richest, is certainly 
next to the richest silver-mining country in 
the world. 

Besides the above, brimstone, saltpeter, 
gypsum, plumbago and soda have been dis- 
covered, some of which are being worked, 
while fire-clay, marble, granite, slate, red 
and white sandstone, limestone and kindred 
formations exist to an almost unlimited ex- 
tent. Salt can be shoveled up in its crude 
state on the shores of Salt Lake, and in the 
southern part of the Territory, is found by 
the mountain, in a remarkably transparent 
and pure state. 

Iron ore exists in large quantities in 
Iron, Summit and Weber counties. Coal 
abounds in various parts, but the principal 
mines now worked are at Coalville, in 
Summit county and in San Pete. The lat- 
ter yields a good quality of blacksmith 
coal, in large quantities. 

At this time there are about 30 organized 
mining districts in the Territory. We have 
not the space to devote to a description of 
the mines, were we able ; they appear to be 
inexhaustible and very rich. For a very 
complete mining map of Utah, see page 97. 
Fish culture has, since 1874, been re- 
ceiving some attention, and a fish farm 
with a superintendent thereof, is located a 
few miles from Salt Lake City. 

There are quite a number of smelting 
furnaces in operation in various parts of 
the Territory, and in Salt Lake City. 

Utah was first settled in 1847. On the 
24th of July, the advance guard of the Mor- 
mon emigration, numbering 143 men, en- 
tered Salt Lake Valley ; five days later 150 
more men arrived under Captain Brown, 
and on July 31st, Great Salt Lake City was 
laid out. At that time the country be- 
longed to the Republic of Mexico, but by 
the treaty of Gaudaloup Hidalgo, in 1848 it 
was ceded to the United States. 

The summers are very warm and dry; 
the winters mild and open. The fall of 
snow is light in the valley and heavy in 
the mountain, the melting of which affords 
ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and 
valleys. Vegetables of all kinds grow 
astonishingly large, and of superior quality. 



Timber is not very plenty, and then, is 
only found in the mountains of difficult ac- 
cess. Returning to business ; at Ogden, we 
will step into the cars of the 

Utah Central Railroad, 

The principal offices of which are at Salt 

Lake City. 

John Sharp, President and Superintendent. 

James Sharp General Passenger Agent. 

J. W. Pox, Engineer. 

The Utah Central is 36.5 miles in length 
and the pioneer road of Utah, excepting 
the through line. May 17, 1809, just one 
week after the "love feast" of the Union 
and the Central at Promentory, ground was 
broken at Ogden, and the enterprise was 
inaugurated with due ceremonies; Presi- 
dent Brigham Young and the chief digni- 
taries of the Mormon church being in at- 
tendance. 

In about half an hour after the overland 
trains arrive at Ogden Junction, the cars of 
this road roll up to the depot for passengers. 
When leaving, the train crosses the Weber 
River, on a fine bridge ; just to the north of 
the depot passes through a deep cut and' 
comes out on a bench of jand that gradually 
slopes from the mountains on the left, to the 
waters of the lake on the right, six and 
four miles distant, respectively. 

From the car window, on the right, a 
good view can be had of a portion of Great 
Salt Lake, but the best view is to be had 
from the top of Promontory Mountain. See 
Annex No. 21. The first station from 
Ogden is 16 miles distant, along the slop- 
ing land named, which is covered above 
the line of irrigation, with sage, but below 
with the thrifty Mormon farmers. A wide 
strip of land near the Lake is valueless, 
owing to the salt in the soil. 

Kaysville — is an incorporated town 
in Davis county, and is surrounded with 
well-cultivated farms, finely kept gardens, 
with water running through the streets, 
and has fruit and shrubbery in profusion. 

The county is comprised of five towns, 
all, with one exception, traversed by our 
road, with in the next 15 miles. The county 
has about 7,000 population, seven flouring 
mills and three saw mills. 

Farming ton — is the next station, 
five miles distant, being the county seat of 
Davis county, and contains good county 
buildings, several flouring mills, and the 
usual beautiful surroundings of fruit trees 
and orchards, for which all Mormon set- 
tlements are noted. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



Ill 




BRIGHAM YOUNG. — For sketch of life see Annex No. 25. 



Centerville— is the next station, four 
miles from Farmington. The description 
of one Mormon village will do for nearly 
all; good farms and crops are the rule, 
where the land is irrigated, and none where 
it is not. 

Wood's Crossing — comes next, two 
miles further, being the station for the lit- 
tle village of Bountiful, on the left, and is 
in the midst of the best cultivated and best 
producing land in the Territory. 

The course of our road from Ogden to 
Salt Lake is almost due south, while the 
Wasatch Mountains, for 30 miles, describe 



a huge circle in the middle to the east- 
ward". The lower point of this circle we 
are fast approaching, and will reach in 
about two miles, just at the point of the 
mountain ahead, where steam is rising. 
There, under the point of that huge rock, 
boils up a hot spring, in a large volume, 
forming a creek several feet in width, with 
a depth of six inches, and it is very hot 
There is no nonsense about this spring ; it 
will boil an egg in two minutes. 

The highest peak in the mountain, 
close to the eastward of these springs al- 
luded to, is 1,200 feet above the valley, and is 



112 



CROFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



called Ensign Peak — the " Mount of Proph- 
ecy," — where the late Prophet, Brigham 
Young, was wont to wrestle with the Lord. 

Just beyond, on the right, is Hot Spring 
Lake, which is formed from the waters of 
this and others of lesser volume, near by. 
This lake freezes over in the winter, except 
near the shore on the northeastern end, and 
is a great resort for skating parties from 
Salt Lake City. Great Salt Lake never 
freezes over — it's too salt. 

Passing the lake, our road keeps straight 
across a broad bottom, while the moun- 
tains on the left again curve away to the 
eastward. 

The Warm Spring buildings, where are 
located the city baths, can be seen beside 
the mountain on the left, marked by a con- 
tinuous column of steam, rising near the 
buildings. 

These are the disputed springs, to obtain 
possession of which, it is supposed by 
many, Dr. Robinson was murdered. The 
baths are well patronized by invalids, who 
visit them for health, relying on their me- 
dicinal qualities to remove their ailments. 
The following is an analysis of the water, 
as made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of 
Boston : 

Three fluid ounces of the water on evap- 
oration to entire dryness in a platina cap- 
sule gave 8.25 grains of solid, dry, saline 
matter. 

Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280 

Per oxide of iron 0.040 0.208 

Lime 545 2.907 

Chlorine 3.454 18.421 

Soda 2.877 15.348 

Magnesia 0.370 2.073 

Sulphuric acid . 703 3 . 748 

8.229 43.981 

It is slightly charged with hydro-sul- 
phuric acid gas and with carbonic acid 
gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, 
having valuable properties belonging to 
saline sulphur springs. The usual tem- 
perature is 102 degrees F. 

They are one mile north of Salt Lake 
City, and are reached by street cars. 

Rolling on through the northern suburbs 
of the city, a little over eight miles from 
Wood's Crossing, we stop at the depot in 
Salt Lake, the City of Zion. Passengers 
arriving at the depot will rind a " Bus " at 
the eastern gate that will take a passenger 
and his baggage to any hotel or point in 
the city for 50 cents ; or, at the same gate, 
street cars, that pass the door of every 
prominent hotel in the city ; fare, 10 cents, 
or ten tickets for 50 cents. 



Salt Lake City— or "Zion," as the 
city is often called by the Mormon faith- 
ful, is one of the most beautiful and pleas- 
antly located of cities. It is situated at the 
foot of a spur of the Wasatch Mountains, 
the northern limits extending on to the 
" bench " or upland, which unites the 
plain with the mountain. From the east 
two wagon roads enter the city, via Emi- 
grant and Parley Canyons. 

The streets are wide, bordered with 
shade-trees, and laid out at right angles. 
Along each side of the streets is a clear, 
cold stream of water from the mountain 
canyons, which, with the numerous shade- 
trees and gardens, give the city an inde- 
scribable air of coolness, comfort and re- 
pose. The city contains a population of 
full 20,000, is the capital of the Territory 
and county seat of Salt Lake county. 
It has 21 wards within its limits, and 
is the terminus of three railroads. It 
contains some as fine business blocks, 
hotels, and private residences, as can be 
tound in any city west of the Missouri 
River. 

The Mormon church, besides its Taber- 
nacle, has a bishop located in every ward 
of the city, who holds ward meetings regu- 
larly. The other churches hold services in 
four or more places in the city. The Ma- 
sons have five lodges in the city; the 
Odd Fellows four, and some of the other 
fellows several. There are 38 mining and 
smelting offices, five sampling and smelt- 
ing works, five iron foundries, boiler and 
brass works, two flouring mills, one woolen 
mill, nine hotels, six breweries, two exten- 
sive marble works, and a score or more of 
small manufacturing establishments. 

There are four daily newspapers. The 
Deseret News is the church organ, the Her- 
ald claims to be independent, the Tribune 
strong opposition Mormon, and the Times. 
Each of these issue weeklies. Newspaper 
business is very precarious in Utah, It's 
as fine an opening for a young man to get 
his "teeth cut," as we know of in the 
world — he can soon get a double and single 
set all around. 

In the mercantile line, Salt Lake City 



Terms Heard on the Plains.—" Lariat" is 
the Spanish name for rope. " Bronco," Califor- 
nia or Spanish pony. " Bueano," (wa-no) good. 
" Esta Bueano," (star wa-no) very good, no better. 
" No sabe," (sarvey) don't understand. " Quien 
sabe," (kin earvey) who knows, or do you under- 
stand. 



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AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



113 



has several establishments that would do 
credit to any city in the Union, one of 
which is 










AM 



iwwmmww, 



The above cut represents the Mormon 
" Co-operative Sign " — called by the Gen- 
tiles the "Bull's Eye." At the Mormon 
Conference, in the fall of 1808, all good 
Mormon merchants, manufacturers and 
dealers who desired the patronage of the 
Mormon people, were directed to place 
this sign upon their buildings in a conspic- 
uous place, that it might indicate to the 
people that they were sound in the faith. 

The Mormon people were also directed 
and warned not to purchase goods or in 
any manner deal with those who refused 
or did not have the sign. Tne object 
seemed to be only to deal with their own 
people, to the exclusion of all others. 

The result of these measures on the part 
of the church was to force many who 
were Gentiles or apostate Mormons to 
sacrifice their goods, and leave the Terri- 
tory for want of patronage. However, the 
order was not very strictly enforced — or 
complied with; yet many of these signs 
are to be seen in Salt Lake City and other 
parts of the Territory on buildings occupied 
by the faithful. 

To more effectually carry out the plan 
of co-operation, one great company was to 
be formed to purchase goods in large 
quantities and establish branches through- 
out all the Mormon settlements. Such a 
8 



company was organized, and incorporated 
with many high Mormon dignitaries as 
either stockholders or officers, and it is now 
known as " Zion's Co-operative Mercantile 
Institution" — with headquarters in Salt 
Lake City. 

The " Z. C. M. I," undoubtedly have the 
finest and largest building in the city. It 
is of brick, 318 feet long, 53 feet in width, 
three stories and cellar, and finished 
throughout in the best manner. It also 
has an addition 25 by 195 feet, and used 
for a warehouse ; cost, $175,000, built of 
iron, stone and glass, but the business 
owned and conducted by the Walker Bros, 
is the largest in Utah, requiring Jive differ- 
ent departments, each occupying a large 
building. 

Think of it, " O ye people!" thirty years 
ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any 
direction, was uninhabited and almost un- 
known to the white race. The annual sales 
of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 
000, and with their goods, gathered here 
from all parts of the world, stand forth as 
monuments of American enterprise, in an 

AMERICAN DESERT. 

The late President Brigham Young's 
residence' (see illustration, page 111, also 
of " Eagle Gate," page 128), tithing 
house, printing office and business offi- 
ces connected with the church occupy 
an entire block, on the bench of land over- 
looking the city, which is one of the first 
objects of interest visited by the traveler on 
arriving in Salt Lake City. 

The traveler who visited this city some 
years ago — before the discovery of the 
rich silver mines — would be surprised by 
a visit now, at the remarkable changes 
noticeable on every hand ; all is life and 
energy ; everybody seems to have a pocket- 
ful of certificates of mining property, and 
you hear of extensive preparations making 
on every side with a view to a vigorous 
prosecution of various mining enterprises. 

The public buildings are not very numer- 
ous. They consist of a court-house, city 
hall, city prison, theatre, and 

The Tabernacle — an immense build- 
ing— the first object one beholds on enter- 
ing the city. The building is oblong in 
shape, having a length of 250 feet from 
east to west, by 150 feet in width. The 
roof is supported by 46 columns of cut 
sandstone, which, with the spaces between, 
used for doors, windows, etc, constitute the 
wall. From these pillars or walls, the 
roof springs in one unbroken arch, form- 




fpj 



^ 

0) I 



|S K 




^ 



*££&, 






The nbove cut represents the Mormon 
"Co-operative Sign "—called by the Gen- 
tiles the "Bull's Eye." At the Mormon 
Conference, in the fall of 1868, all good 
Mormon merchants, manufacturers "and 
dealers who desired the patronage of the 
Mormon people, were directed to place 
tins sign upon their buildings in a conspic- 
uous place, that it might indicate to the 
l"'"|do that they were sound in the faith. 

Ihe Mormon people were also directed 
and warned not to purchase goods or in 
■ l "y manner deal with those who refused 
or did not have the sign. Tne object 

° eeni fd to 1 nlv to deal "with their own 

r"'"l;le, to the exclusion of all others. 

1 '"■ result of these measures on the part 
wer ,'■ 0,lurcu was to force many who 
er< (,e„tiles or apostate Mormons to 
,'.;'."•'■ "'fir goods, and leave the Terri- 
]V '"'• wantofpatrona-e. However, the 
fll l."'f n"t very strietlv enforced— or 

'Plied with: yet nmnv*of these signs 

Par^,n, S T inS; ' ltLaiu ' Ci *^' u,1 " ,h " r 
by i|,| ,',,','; '"'"'"ly on buildings occupied 

,,r'!::;;;: ; ^;"^e-ually carry out the plan 

'"'' '"'"'"'I '!.'' purr,,?!' ":T"hVhr-e 
'"""'ilies an I , ii 7 

" ut "" the Mo,n': ;',;'. ::'.:; ": s, ^','a; ; 



either stockholders 
known as "Zion'sl 
Institution"— with 
Lake City. 

The "1 CM. I,' 
finest and largest bi 
is of brick, 318 feet 
three stories and 
throughout in the 
has an addition 15 
for a warehouse; i 
iron, stone and gl. 
owned ami conduct! 
is the largest in Dfta 
departments, ei 
building. 

Think of it, » y 
ago this whole coin 
direction, was unink 
known to the white 
of these two establisl 
000, and with ttir-ii 
from all parts of the 
monuments of Arnei 

AMERICAN DESERT. 

The late Presidei 
residence (see illust 
of 'Eagle Gate," 
house, printing offi 
ces connected "with 
an entire block, on tl 
looking the city, wb 
objects of interest vis 
arriving in Salt Laki 

Tlie traveler who 

years ago— before t 

rich silver mines— * 

visit now, at the 

noticeable on every 

■ ; everybody si 

ml of certificates of i 

vou hear of extensive 

"on every side with 

•osecution of varioc 

The public buildim 

is. They consist c 

hull, city prison, thea 

The Taberxacle- 

iog— the nrst object . 

ing the city. The b 

shape, having a Iw 

east to (rest, by 1™ 

root i> supported by 



114 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



ing the largest self-sustaining roof on the 
continent, with one notable exception — the 
Grand Union Depot erected by the late 
Commodore Vanderbilt in. New York. The 
ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above the floor. 
In one end of this egg-shaped building is 
the organ — the second in size in America. 
The Tabernacle is used for church pur- 
poses, as well as other large gatherings of 
the people. With the gallery, which ex- 
tends across both sides and one end of this 
immense building, it will seat 8,000 people 
— see illustration, page 91 , also interior 
view, page 107 . 

The Temple — This building — a fine il- 
lustration of which will be found on page 
56, is not yet completed, but work is pro- 
gressing steadily, and it is up about 20 
feet. The dimensions of the foundations 
are 99x186^ feet. The site of the Tem- 
ple is on the eastern half of the same block 
with the Tabernacle. 

Since the advent of railroads into Utah, 
and the discovery of the rich mines, 
church property has not accumulated very 
rapidly. Within the past few years nearly 
all the religious denominations have se- 
cured a foothold in this city. 

Camp Douglas — a military post, estab- 
lished October 26, 1862, by Gen. E. P. 
Conner, Third Regiment of California Vol- 
unteer Infantry, is situated on the east side 
of the Jordan, four miles from that stream, 
three miles east of the City of Salt Lake, 
and fifteen miles southeast of Salt Lake. 
Latitude, 40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec; longi- 
tude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. its location 
is on a sloping upland or bench at the base 
of the mountains and overlooking the city, 
and affords a fine view of the country to 
the west and south. 

Jordan River — This stream, which bor- 
ders Salt Lake City on the west, is the out- 
let of Utah Lake, which lies about forty 
miles south. It empties into the Great 
Salt Lake, about twelve miles northwest of 
the city. 

There are a great many hotels in Salt 
Lake City, but the principal ones are the 
Walker, Townsend, White, Cliff, Valley, 
and the Salt Lake House. 

We have to record one important innova- 
tion that has recently been introduced into 
the hotel business in Utah. Yes, and we 
will give you a picture of the house that 
originated it. 




The ''good, old-fasbioned way" of imparting 
knowledge to dull pupils— By rule, paddling it in 
through the pores of the skin. 



This house, in addition to its being first- 
class in every particular, with steam ele- 
vator and central location, furnishes its 
guests a competent guide free of charge, to 
conduct them to all places of interest in 
the city, introduce them to prominent per- 
sonages when required, and give all needed 
information. G. S. Erb, Esq., is proprietor, 
and the Walker Bros, are the owners of 
this house, which fact is a sufficient guar- 
antee that the innovation is one to be de- 
pended upon. 

The picture of the late President, Brig- 
ham Young, on page 111, was the last 
one ever taken. It was made by Mr. Sav- 
age of Salt Lake City, an eminent artist, 
and is said to be a very accurate picture. 

For sketch of the life of Brigham 
Young, see Annex No. 25. 

For little items worth knowing about 
Salt Lake City, see Annex No. 22. 

We will now take a run over all the 
railroads in Utah, commencing with the 

Utah Southern Railroad. 

Principal office, Salt Lake City. 

John Sharp. .... .President and Superintendent. 

Jamtjs Sharp General Passenrer Agent. 

J. W. Fox Engineer. 

This road is practically a continuation 
of the Utah Central. It was commenced 
May 1st, 1871, and built thirteen miles 
during the year, to Sandy, and then ex- 
tended, from time to time, until, at this 
time, March 1st, 1878, it is completed 75 
miles south, to the terminus. 

The cars start from the same depot as 
the Central. 

We will step on board, and roll south- 
ward along through the city — passing fine 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



115 



residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- 
chards, aud well-cultivated fields, with the 
Jordan River on our right, the Oquirrh 
range of mountains far in the distance, 
and the towering Wasatch Mountains on 
our left ; this is Jordan Valley. This val- 
ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to 
Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, with a 
varying width cf from two to twelve miles. 

About five miles south, on the left, is 
situated the Morgan Smelting Works, on 
the creek that comes down from Big Cot- 
tonwood, and opposite Parley Canyon, 
which can be seen on the east, just below 
the mouth of which is located the State 
Penitentiary, and the Utah Woolen Mill. 

Crossing the creek, and passing on seven 
miles 'from the city, we come to 

Little Cottonwood — the first station. 
O.i the left are the Wasatch Smelting 
Works, and a little beyond the American 
Smelting Works. Just after crossing the 
Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is 
the big Gennania Smelting and Refining 
Works, with the town of Gerniania, con- 
taining 500 inhabitants. 

Passing along, on the right, can be seen 
great piles of silver ore — " matte " as it is 
cal ed. 

From this point the mountain view is 
grand; to the eastward, the canyons of 
Parley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- 
wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. 

The country here shows what irriga- 
tion is doing for it ; there can be no finer 
lands or crops than are litre found. In 
every direction the land is covered with a 
labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- 
ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- 
neath them, and literally causing the land 
to flow with " milk and honey." 

Five miles further we come to 

Junction — a small station, where all 
passengers for West Mountain, Bingham 
Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, u change 
cars " for those of the 

Bingham Canyon Railroad. 

Official Headquarters, Salt Lake City. 

C. W. Pchofield.. President. 

G. M. Young ...Treasurer cfc Superintendent. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
completed to the mouth of Bingham Can- 
yon, 16 miles west, and had cars running 
December 1st, 1878. Let us take a roll 
over it. 

Leaving the j unction, our course is clue 
west, through a well-cultivated section of 
country. 



Jordan Station — is one mile distant, 
where there is a postoffice, and a small 
collection of cottages. Near by, a track 
leads off to the Old Telegraph Smelter, 
the dressing works of which are a short 
distance below the road, on the opposite 
side of the Jordan River, which we cross 
soon after leaving the station. 

Just as we raise on to the west bank of 
the Jordan, we come to the residence of 
Bishop Gardner, who is the " better half " 
of ehven wives. The Bishop appears to 
stand it pretty well, although they do say 
that he is occasionally found singing, " On 
Jordan's stormy banks I stand," with a 
tear accompaniment. 

West Jordan — is on the west bank of 
the river and contains a few hundred peo- 
ple. From this station, the grade in- 
creases, and soon we reach a high table- 
land, too high for irrigation by ditches, 
without great expense. Bunchgrass, white 
sage, sheep, some cattle, and Jack-rabbits 
abound — the latter are very numerous. 

The road, about five miles from the 
river, enters the long, broad ravine that 
leads to Bingham, up which we roll — the 
ravine gradually becoming narrower as 
we asceud. Occasionally we pass a little 
farm-house, and a few acres or farm and 
garden land. Nearing the mountains, the 
ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and 
finally to only sufficient room for the rail- 
road and a little creek, between the bluffs 
on each bide. 

These bluffs are from 250 to 1,000 feet in 
height, covered with small stone, sage, and 
a few small pine trees. 

As we ascend, the bluffs are more pre- 
cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous 
places with "prospect holes." In places 
the grade is 120 feet, p,nd then, more, and 
finally it becomes too much for our ii on 
horse, and we stop at the end of the steam 
road, one mile below 

Bingham City — population about 
2,000. Just below the city is located on 
the left, the Winnemucca mill and mine. 
We know it is there, as we " prospected " it 
once — about 30 feet. 

Bingham City is built along the canyon 
for two miles, and contains a number of 
mills and works connected with mining. 
From the station, a tramway up which 
small ore cars are hauled with mules, 
extends up the canyon for three miles, 
with a branch running back from about 
half the distance up to a mine on the top of 
the mountain, about one and a half miles 



116 



CROFUTT S ]STEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



further, making of tramway A% miles; 
whole length of road 20^ miles. 

The tramway is built on the south side 
of the canyon, away up on the side of the 
mountain. From the cars can be had a 
fine view of the canyon, Bingham, the 
mines and mills in the neighboring ravines 
and on the opposite mountain side, and the 
miners at the bottom of the canyon, working 
over the old "placer diggings." 

At the end of this tramway is located the 
old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in 
the Territory, from which over 200 tons of 
ore a day is shipped, down over the tram 
and railroad to the smelters in the valley. 
The cars are hauled up by mules, and low- 
ered down to the " iron horse" below Bing- 
ham by the car brakes. 

The mines are numerous in and around 
Bingham, but we have not the space for a 
description of them, but will return to the 
junction on the Utah Southern, and one 
mile further arrive at 

Sandy — This station is 13 miles south of 
Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- 
portance. 

At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- 
ties of ore — ore in sacks, ore loose by the 
car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, 
with a train unloading on one side and an- 
other loading on the other ; in fact, this is 
the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- 
pling point in all Utah. 

At Sandy are three sampling works, and 
two smelting works, and a lively town of 
700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- 
ployed in the handling and manipulation 
of ores. Here we find another railroad 
branching off ; this time it is the 

Wasatch & Jordan Valley . 

Principal offices at Salt Lake City. 

C. W. Schofield President. 

Q. M. Young Treas. and Superintendent. 

This road is a three-foot narrow-gauge, 
16 miles in length, running to Alta, at the 
head of Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is 
operated by narrow gauge steam engines 
for 8.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad 
gauge mules. The road was commenced 
in 1870, finished to Wasatch in 1872, and to 
Alta in 1876. Let us take a trip over it and 
note a few of the sights. 

From Sandy the train runs north a short 
distance, and then turns to the east, directly 
for the Wasatch Mountains, leaving the old 
Flagstaff smelter on the left-hand side of 
the track, just above the station. The 
grade is heavy, the soil is stony, and cov- 



ered more or less with sage-brush, and 
traversed by irrigating ditches conveying 
the water to a more productive and less 
stony soil below. 

Nearing the mountains, about six miles 
from Sandy, we come to a deep gorge on 
the left, through which Little Cottonwood 
Creek has worn its way to the valley. From 
this point we bear away to the southward 
around a low butte, then turn again to the 
east and northward and run along on an 
elevated plateau where a most beautiful 
view can be had. On the west, the Jordan 
Valley, in all its magnificent shades of 
green and gold, is at our feet, with the 
brown old mountains bordering the hori- 
zon in the distance. To the north, fifteen 
miles away, over as beautiful a succession of 
little streams, well-cultivated fields, white 
cottages, orchards and gardens, as are to be 
found witnin the same number of miles in 
this country — sleeps " Zion " in full view, 
embowered in green, with the dome of the 
monster Tabernacle glistening like some 
half-obscured " silvi moon," sinking at 
the mountain base ; while far beyond, and 
more to the westward, lays the Great Salt 
Lake— a mysterious problem. Away to 
the south, is Utah Lake, looking like me 
large sheet of burnished silver, surrounded 
by a net-work of green and gold, while to 
the east looms up towering granite walls, 
cleft from summit to base, forming a nar- 
row gorge only sufficiently wide to allow 
our little road to be built beside a little 
rippling creek of crystal water. 

Rolling along, our train rounds the head 
of a ravine, through - deep cut, passes the 
old Davenport Smelting Works on the 
left, enters the mouth of the canyon be- 
tween great walls of granite, crosses and re- 
crosses^ the little creek, and soon stops at 

Wasatch — the end of the steam road, 
8.5 miles from Sandy Junction. This is a 
small station with postoffice, • store, and a 
few dwellings containing a population of 
about 100, more than half of whom are en- 
gaged in the stone quarries on the north 
side of the station. 

At Wasatch all the granite is got out and 
shaped for the Temple in Salt Lake City. 
The stone is the best yet discovered in the 
Territory, being of close, fine grain, of 
light gray color, and of beautiful birds-eye 
appearance. The granite on the south side 
appears much darker than that on the 
north side of the canyon. 

From almost every nook and crevice of 
these mountain cliffs— from the station away 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



117 



up the canyon — grow small pines, cedars, 
ferns, and mosses, which, in connection 
with the gray walls, snow-capped moun- 
tains, glistening waterfalls, pure air and 
golden sun, presents a picture of rare 
beauty. 

Just above, on the left of the station, 
away up on a projecting cliff, 1,000 feet 
above the road, stands a granite column 
which measures 66% feet in height, from 
the pedestal-like cliff on which it stands. 
On each side of this column, and receding 
from its base, is a little grotto-park, filled 
with nature's evergreens, and surrounded 
on three sides and on the top with rocks of 
every size and shape. 

Finding that this granite column has 
had no name, we name it " Humphry's 
Peak," in honor of the very gentlemanly 
late superintendent of the road. 

At Wasatch we " change cars," taking 
those of about the size of an ordinary 
hand-car, fitted up with seats that will com- 
fortably accommodate about nine persons, 
besides the knight of the whip — who chir- 
rups the " broad gauge mules." 

About a half-mile above the station we 
enter the snow-sheds, which will continue 
for seven miles, to the end of the track at 

Alta— a small mining town, at the head 
of little Cottonwood Canyon. The end of 
the track is on the side of the mountain 
about 200 feet above the town of Alta, and 
about 500 feet below the mouth of the cele- 
brated Emma Mine, which is a little fur- 
ther to the east, and opposite the Flagstaff 
Mine, which is about the same height 
above the road. 

The town of Alta is at the bottom of the 
canyon 200 feet lower than the end of the 
railroad surrounded with mountain peaks, 
which are covered with snow eight months 
of the year, and at all times surrounded 
with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It 
contains about 500 population, all of 
whom are engaged in mining and kindred 
pursuits. There are several stores, express, 
telegraph, and postoffice, besides several 
small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. 

To the north, over the mountain two 
miles is the Big Cottonwood Canyon ; to 
the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, 
and American Fork Canyon ; Forest City is 
four miles. Three miles east by trail is 
Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 
— the angler's paradise. 

The principal mines near Alta are, the 
Emma, Flagstaff, Grizzly, Nabob, Kate 
Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie, Prince 



of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within 
five miles. The business of the railroad 
is the transportation of ores and supplies 
to and from the mines. Hundreds of cars 
are loaded daily with ore that is taken to 
the valley to be smelted or are sent to San 
Francisco, the East, or to Swansea, Wales. 

For novel methods of hauling ore to the 
depot, see Annex No. 24. 

The sheds over the railroad are seven 
miles in length, and are made in various 
styles of architecture, more for business 
than beauty, the style being adopted accord- 
ing t o circumstances. They are, however, in 
all places constructed- of heavy material, 
rocks, round or sawed timber, and built in 
the most substantial manner. In one place 
they are in tbe shape of a letter A, sharp 
peaked ; in other places, nearly upright on 
each side, one side higher than the other, 
with a sloping roof. Again the lower hill- 
side is built with a little slope toward the 
up hill side, and long heavy timbers from 
the top of these uprights slope up onto the 
mountain side, resting on a solid granite 
foundation leveled to a uniform grade, 
for that purpose. 

Where the latter plan has been adopted, 
there is danger of snow-slides which are 
more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a 
number of times since the sheds were con- 
structed, and each time, the snow and rocks 
passed over the shed into the canyon below, 
without causing one cent's worth of damage 
to the road or shed. 

Thelenffthof this road, where it is oper- 
ated with mules, is seven miles long. As 
before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the 
mile ; the curves are in places 30 degrees, 
and not, as once stated in the " Railway 
Age" 30 curves and 600 foot gauge. But we 
suppose that Col. Bridges, when he wrote 
that, was thinking about those "broad 
gauge mules." 

Returning, the mule power that took us 
up is no longer in demand ; the knight of 
the whip now mans the brakes, and away we 
go around the Age's 30 curves, to the valley 
below, "change cars" at Sandy, and are 
once more headed for the south, on the 
Utah Southern railroad. A short distance 
south, we pass the Mcintosh Sampling mill, 
on the west and another on the east. 

Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- 
sented in quantities sufficient to enable 
the sampling company to give certificates 
of their value, and then the ore is sold at 
the certificate rates. One mile further is 
the Mingo Smelter of the Penn. Lead Co. 



118 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



The land is more rolling, as we approach 

Draper — This is not a very important 
station to the tourist, but to the few vil- 
lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little 
canyon beside the mountains on the left, 
it is a big institution. Draper is four miles 
from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake 
City. 

Leaving Draper, our course is east, and 
after crossing South Willow Creek, turns 
more to the south, and finally to the west, 
having kept around the foot of the moun- 
tains, which here make a full half-circle. 
In the distance around, there are many cuts 
and some hard work, and we queried, why 
the road was built around, when the work 
was so heavy and the distance much further 
than across where there was very little 
work to be done? In answer, we were 
told that President Brigham Young laid 
out the road around the side of the moun- 
tain, by " revelation." If that is so, we con- 
clude that the revelation came from the 
same " deity " that took our Savior up on 
the Mount, but as it is not "our funeral," 
we will not criticise. 

The lower point of the great curve is 
called the "Point of theMountain." At the 
point where the railroad is built around, 
the track is about 300 feet above a little 
round valley to the west, in which is lo- 
cated a hot spring, marked by a brown 
burned patch of land and rising steam 

As our train curves around this point, a 
most charming view can be had ; one of the 
finest on the road. The valley is here 
nearer, to the northward the view in unob- 
structed for 50 miles ; to the south, Utah 
Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great 
Lower Basins. 

Passing through numerous cuts and 
around the point, the train curves again to 
the eastward, and starts again on another 
grand curve around the rim of the basin, in 
which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. 

Nearly opposite the "point of the moun- 
tain" is a low divide in the Oquirrh Range 
on the west, over which the road leads to 
Camp Floyd. 

Continuing along through sand cuts, 
sage and an occasional farm, 14 miles from 
Draper we arrive at 

Lehi — This town is situated in the midst 
of a perfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and 
gardens, with the waters of Dry Canyon 
Creek running through all the streets, and 
contains a population of about 1,500, includ- 
ing: those living in the immediate vicinity. 
The good results of irrigating sage-brush 



land, are here demonstrated by the large 
crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables 
produced, where, before the land was irri- 
gated, nothing but sage-brush and grease- 
wood were to be seen. 

Three miles further is 

American Fork — a station 34 miles 
from Salt Lake City — the " banner " town 
for free schools; the first in the Terri- 
tory, having been established here in 1869. 
The streets are wide, with the waters of 
Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- 
ican Fork Can> on, running through them, 
and the orchards, gardens and farms in the 
neighborhood making an attractive and 
beautiful town. The population numbers 
about 1,600, the greater portion of whom 
are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The 
American Fork House, opposite the sta- 
tion, is the principal hotel, and Robert 
Keppeneck is one of the jolliest of German 
hosts. 

To the southwest of the station, a com- 
pany is engaged in building a dam across 
the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. 
The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- 
tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- 
ted will extend north 20 miles, winding 
around the base of the Wasatch, near our 
road, keeping as far up on the side of the 
mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- 
nal will be taken out for the west side of the 
Jordan, with a view of taking the water all 
over the lands as far north as Salt Lake 
City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract 
of ta^e land between the Jordan River at 
Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at 
the foot of Salt Lake. 

From this station a road branches off to 
the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, 
called the 

American Fork Railroad. 

[Since the following description was ivritten, 
the iron track of this road has been rtmoved, and 
the road abandoned.] 

This was a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- 
road, 15 miles in length; commenced May, 
1872, and completed 12 miles during the 
year. The grade for the whole distance is 
heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. 

Leaving the station at American Fork, 
the road turns directly to the east, and fol- 
lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- 
sortment of sage brush, sand and boulders, 
for six miles to the mouth of the Canyon. 
On the way up, to the right, a fine view 
can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from 
the lower range of the Wasatch to an alti- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



119 




THE LATE BRIGHAM YOUNG'S RESIDENCE. 



tude of 11,011 feet above the sea. 

From the mouth of the canyon, about 
two miles north, is the little village of Al- 
pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. 

Entering the canyon, the passage is 
quite narrow between the towering cliffs, 
which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in 
height, leaving only about 100 feet be- 
tween, through which the road is built, 
aad a sparkling little stream comes rip- 
pi in sr down ; the road, on its way up, cross- 
ing and re-crossing the stream many times. 

Our train is rapidly climbing, but the 
canyon walls seem to be much more rap- 
idly rising, and at a distance of one, two 
and three miles, gain an additional 500 
feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500feet 
above the road bed. In places these 
cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in 
others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, 
seamed in places as though built up from 
the bed of the canyon by successive layers, 
some as thin as a knife blade, others much 
thicker; then again, the rocks have the 
appearance of iron slag, or dark colored 
lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the 
eye every conceivable angle and fan- 
tastic shape — a continuous, ever-changing 
panorama. 

Imagine, then, this canyon with its 
grottoes, amphitheatres, and. its towering 
crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- 
ering far above the road, overhanging it in 



places, with patches of eternal snow in the 
gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed 
at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, 
spruce and cedar trees growing in all the 
nooks and gulches and away up on the sum- 
mit; then countless mosses and ferns cling- 
ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- 
hold can be secured, together with the mil- 
lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun's 
rays are sifted through countless objects on 
their way to the silvery, sparkling stream, 
below, with its miniature cascades and ed- 
dies. We say imagine all these things, and 
then you will only have a faint outline of 
the wild and romantic, picturesque and 
glorious American Fork Canyon. 

Proceeding on up, up, around sharp 
crags, under the very overhanging moun- 
tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, 
and '• Telescope Peak " on the left. In the 
top of the latter is a round aperture, 
through which the sky beyond can be 
plainly seen; this hole is called the " Dev- 
il's Eye." 

About three miles from the mouth of the 
canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging 
Rock. (See illustration page 15.) Close 
above, on the same side, is a very large 
spring, and almost immediately opposite 
"Sled-runner Curve;"— an inverted vein of 
rock in the side of the perpendicular cliff, 
resembling a sled-runner — possibly this is 
the Devil's sled-runner ; who knows ? Along 



120 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



here the rock seams are badly mixed, and 
run at all angles — horizontal, longitudinal 
and "through other." Half-a-mile further 
we come to " Rainbow Clin," on the right; 
opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like 
a knife-blade, 300 feet; a little further 
on to the right, comes in the South Fork, on 
which are located several saw mills. 

Keeping to the left, and soon after pass- 
ing the South Fork, a look back down 
this wonderful canyon affords one of the 
grandest of views ; we cannot describe it, 
but will have it engraved for future vol- 
umes. 

One mile further, and the train stops at 
the end of the track, at 

Deer Creek— Near this station, the 
hills are bare of trees, but covered with 
shrubs of different kinds, in which sage 
and moss predominate ; the gulches and 
ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. 
The chief business of this road is in 
connection with the mines above, among 
which are the Smelter's Sultana, Wild 
Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The 
Miller Smelting Works are four miles fur- 
ther up and the mines seven. 

Charcoal in large quantities is burned 
near by and taken to the smelting works. 
There are ten Bee-hive kilns at the station, 
and. fifteen more four miles further up. 
The yield is 8,000 bushels per month for 
each 60 cords of wood. Each kiln has a 
capacity of 20 cords, and is filled and 
burned three times each month. The price 
obtained is 14c. per bushel. Bishop Mc- 
Allister is the jolly chief in charge. 

Opposite the station, in a cosy little 
nook, is located the Mountain Glen House, 
where the tourist will find his wants an- 
ticipated, and plans can be matured for a 
ramble over these mountain peaks ; and 
there are a number of little tours that can 
be made from this point each day that will 
well pay for a week's time devoted to this 
locality. 

Returning to the valley, our engine is 
dispensed with, and only the brakes are 
used. Then it is that the view is most 
grand, and the ride one beyond the pow- 
ers of man with his best goose-quill to 
describe. Make the tour of the American 
Fork, and our word for it, it will live in 
pleasant memory while the sun of life de- 
scends upon a ripe old age. 

At American Fork station, we again en- 
ter the cars on the Utah Southern, and 
start once more for the south. Three 
miles brings our train to 



Pleasant Grove — properly named. 
In early days it was known as " Battle 
Creek" — so-called from a fight the early 
settlers once had here with the Utes. It is 
a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and 
like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded 
with orchards and gardens of iruit, with 
water flowing through every street. Herds 
of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the 
surrounding hills. 

Eleven miles around, on the rim of the 
basin, across some sage and some well- 
cultivated land, our train stops at 

Provo — This is a regularly incorporated 
city, with all the requisite municipal offi- 
cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, 
which was first settled in 1849. 

Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake 
City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and 
on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- 
tains an increasing population of 4,000. 
This place has several fine hotels, chief of 
which is the Excelsior House. The En- 
quirer, is a weekly paper published here. 
The court-house and public buildings of 
the city are very good, and all kinds of 
business is represented here. The princi- 
pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen 
Mills, three flouring mills, and three saw- 
mills. . 

Provo River, which is formed by nu- 
merous small streams, to the eastward, af- 
fords the best water power of any stream 
in Utah. 

The woolen mill is a noted feature of 
the city; the buildings number four, are 
built of stone, four stories high, and cost, 
complete, ready for business, $210,000. 
There are in the mill four "mules " with 
3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, 
dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of 
wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn 
out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding 
$200,000 per annum. 

The Mormons have a very capacious 
tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine 
church, and schools are ample. The Brig- 
ham Young Academy is located here, 
which was amply endowed by President 
Brigham Young some years before his 
death. 

A regular stage leaves for Provo Valley, 
20 miles distant, to the eastward, on ar- 
rival of trains. . 

Utah Lake— is a body of fresh water, 
30 miles in length and about six miles in 
width ; is fed by Provo River, American 
Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble, Salt and 
Peteetweet Creeks — having its outlet 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



121 



through Jordan River, which runs north 
and empties into Great Salt Lake. Utah 
Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. 

Passing along, through a well-cultivated 
section of country, for five miles,we arrive at 

Springville — This place was named 
from a warm spring which flows from 
Hobble Creek Canyon, above the town. 
Pop. about 1,500. The water from this spring 
is utilized for running a flouring milt, 
whereby the mill is enabled to run at all 
seasons of the year. So much for a hot spring. 

Coal of good coking quality has been 
discovered and worked about 40 miles to 
the southeast, and the Utah and Pleasant 
Valley narrow gauge railroad is now build- 
ing to these mines, using the iron from the 
abandoned American Fork R. R. 

Hobble Creek Can von on the east, was so 
named by the first Mo mons that visited it 
in 1847, 'who found in the canyon a set of 
old Spanish hobbles. 

Rolling along for five miles further 
through well-cultivated land we arrive at 

Spanish Fork — a village of 1,800 popu- 
lation, most of whom are engaged in agri- 
cultural and pastoral pursuits. The town 
is to the left of the road on the banks of 
Spanish Fork River. 

Butter and cheese are quite a specialty 
with many of the citizens ; on the table- 
lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is 
made to some extent; wheat is also a good 
crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- 
ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- 
bers in all the mountain streams, as well 
as in the 1 ake. 

Continuing on through rich farm land, 
eight miles brings our train to 

Payson — This is an incorporated city of 
about 2,200 population, situated to the left 
of the road, and near the southern end of 
Utah Lake. The people appear to be well 
to-do, and do not trouble themselves much 
about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- 
nese question." Large quantities of ore 
are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- 
ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. 

Three miles further, and two and a half 
miles eastward, is a beautiful little place 
called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily 
in beside the mountain and a little lakelet 
of similar name. This villa is noted for 
its abundant and superior fruit of various 
kinds, where is located a large canning 
establishment. 

Five miles further,-through less valuable 
lands than those to the northward, and we 
arrive at 



Santaquin — which is a very important 
point. It contains a population of about 
2,000, and is a point from which all pas- 
sengers, mails, express and freight, leave 
for the Tintic mining regions, to the west- 
ward. Here, too, will be found stage 
lines' for the different mining towns and 
camps. To Goshen the distance is six 
miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver 
City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. 

The Tintic district furnished at this sta- 
tion, in 1877, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- 
tite iron ore for shipment to the different 
smelting furnaces to the northward, for a 
flux in the manipulation of ores. 

Four miles further, through a rather un- 
invitng country, and our train stops, at the 
end of the track, at 

York — This station is 75 miles south of 
Salt Lake City. Stages leave here daily, 
on the arrival of trains for Nephi, 16 miles ; 
Filmore, 18 miles; Diamond, 18 miles; 
Beaver, 14() miles; Pioche, 260 miles ; St. 
George, 278 miles — and to all intermediate 
points. Great numbers of wagons are 
loaded at this place with freight for the 
various mining regions to the West, South, 
and East. 

To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with 
his cap of snow to an altitude of 12,000 
f eet - EXTENSION. 

We learn that the contract has been let 
for extending the Utah Southern, during 
the year 1879, to the Frisco Mining District 
in Beaver County, 150 miles distant. When 
the road is extended, the distance by stage 
will be correspondingly shortened, stages 
and freight for the south leaving the "end 
of the track." 

Frisco Mines— are said to be exceed- 
ingly rich in silver and lead The ores are 
similar to those found at Leadville, in Col- 
orado, yielding from $15 to $1,500 per ton, 
of silver, and from 20 to 45 per cent of 
lead. Heavy investments of eastern capi- 
tal have been made in these mines, and 
vigorous efforts are making to soon work 
them by the latest and most improved 
methods. 

Mr. Jay Cooke (Ex-banker) visited this 
District in 1878, and caused a thorough 
prospect to be made by shafts, tunnels, 
drifts, and boring, which experts report, 
demonstrates the existence of a body of 
carbonate ore of average assay, valued at 
over $30,000,000. Mr. Cooke has formed a 
syndicate for immediate operations. 

Returning to "Zion," our course will 
now be over the 



122 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Utah Western Railroad. 

W. W. Riteb, Gen. Manager, Salt Lake City. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
commenced in 1871, and was completed 
for twelve miles during the year. In 1875, 
about thirteen miles more were finished, 
and in 1877 it was extended to within two 
miles of Stockton, 37.5 miles from Salt 
Lake City. 

The depot in Salt Lake City is located 
one-half mile west of the Utah Central, on 
the same street. We will take a run out 
over this road and note the result. 

The route is due west, crossing the Jor- 
dan River the first mile, about one-half 
mile south of the wagon-road bridge, 
thence twelve miles to the Hot Springs, at 
the northeast point of the Oquirrh Mount- 
ains. This twelve miles is built across 
the level bottom land, the greater portion 
of which is covered with sage-brush and 
grease-wood, with an occasional patch of 
"bunch" and alkali grasses. The soil in 
most parts is a black vegetable mold with 
a mixture of fine sand. Some sand beds 
are noticeable, and near the Hot Springs a 
deposit of alkali with some yellow clay, 
purposes. 

The whole length of this land is about 
50 miles, of which the first 15 is 10 miles 
average width, the balance averaging five 
miles wide, and extending to Utah Lake on 
the south, and when properly irrigated — as 
we have heretofore noted, a plan now being 
carried out for so doing — it will be as pro- 
ductive as the same number of acres in the 
valley of the famous River Nile, in Egypt, 

Large herds of cattle and sheep are now 
to be seen on the bottom, as well as jack 
rabbits by the legion. 

Near the hot springs, on the left, notice- 
able from the amount of steam rising, and 
the brown,burned appearance of the ground, 
are some comfortable little farm-hou»es, and 
a few good, well-appearing farms. The 
hot springs spoken of are fresh, and produce 
a large creek of water. Near, are several 
store-houses, and the station called 

Millstone — so named from the fact that 
at this point the first millstones were quar- 
ried in the Territory. There are no ac- 
commodations at present, near, for tourists 
to stop over. 

Proceeding along, around the side of the 
mountain, our train gradually approaches 
the lake, and five miles from Millstone, 
we are at 

Black Rock — This station derives its 



name from a black-looking rock, sitting 
out in the lake, about 300 feet distant and 
50 feet in height, just after passing a high, 
rocky cliff on the edge of the Lake. 

Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, 
and the highest point is known as Observa- 
tion Point, so named from the unobstructed 
view of the surrounding country, which 
can be had from its summit. Antelope, or 
Church Island, to the northeast, is 14 miles 
distant, Kimball's 22 miles ; Goose Creek 
Mountains, 100 miles northwest; West 
Mountain, 15 miles west; Oquirrh, close 
to the south, while the view to the south- 
west extends to the great rim of the basin, 
17 miles distant. 

On Church Island, large herds of cattle 
range, and some mines of gold, slate and 
copper have been discovered. On Car- 
riugton Island, opposite Black Rock, a slate 
mine of good quality has been discovered, 
which has been traced 4,500 feet. 

Opposite the station, away up in the side 
of the mountain, is the 

" Giant's Cave " — an opening extending 
several hundred feet into the mountain side, 
with a ceiling ranging in height from ten to 
75 feet, from which hang stelactites of great 
beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some 
of the ancient tribes of Indians, it is said, 
are still to be found scattered ar. >und the 
floor of the cave. The presence of these re- 
mains is explained by a tradition among 
the Indians to the effect that " many hun- 
dred years ago, two tribes of Indians were 
at war with each other, and that the weaker 
party was forced to take refuge in the cave, 
but were followed by the enemy, who 
closed the entrance with huge boulders, 
forming an impenetrable barrier to their 
escape " — and thus their place of refuge 
became their grave. 

Leaving Black Rock, our train skirts the 
lake for a distance of three miles, and stops 
at 

Lake Point — twenty miles from Salt 
Lake City. Here the traveler will find 
ample accommodation at the " Short 
Branch Hotel," and the steamer " General 
Garfield," Cap. Darres, ready to explore 
the mysteries of the famous " Dead Sea," 
Great Salt Lake. This arrangement af- 
fords the first opportunity ever offered to 
travelers to behold the marvelous grandeur 
with which this inland sea abounds, of 
which Von Humboldt so truly said, " Here 
is the beauty and grandeur of Como and 
Killarney combined." 

For the last two seasons, Lake Point has 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



123 



been a great resort for pic-nic parties, 
from Zion, who come out, take a trip over 
the lake and to the islands, have a swim in 
the lake and a ramble up onto the moun- 
tains, " make a day of it," and return to the 
city in the evening. Bath houses are pro- 
vided for those who prefer them, and every 
accommodation provided to make those 
who visit Lake Point feel satisfied and 
happy. 

Game in the mountains and on the 
plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and 
smaller game are to be had for the neces- 
sary effort ; ducks are abundant six miles 
to the eastward, and fish , — nary one. 

The mountains are about 1,000 feet above 
the road, and generally have rounded 
peaks, covered with small trees, in places, 
sage and grass in others, and large timber 
in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, 
near the summit. 

Leaving the Point, our course is more 
to the southward, along the side of the 
lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, where 
water is had from the mountain on the left 
in sufficient quantities for irrigating them. 
Two milts south, on the left, is " Dobey 
Rock," a high, isolated rock on elevated 
ground ; so named after an old Indian, who 
was buried near. 

Turning more to the left, and drawing 
away from the lake, the road follows along 
a few miles from the base of the moun- 
tains, beside which is located the small 
Mormon village of " E. T. City " — named 
alter E. T. Bensen, one of the early settlers. 
Four and a half miles, from the " Point " 
comes the 

Half-way House — Near are a flouring 
and a woolen mill. On the opposite side 
of the valley, to the west, is the town of 
Grantsville, eight miles distant. It is sit- 
uated in one of the richest agricultural 
sections of the State ; population, 2,000. 

In the background is the West Mountain 
Range, which rears its peaks full 2,000 
feet above the town, and in which are lo- 
cated some very rich silver mines. Be- 
yond these mountains is Scull Valley — so 
named from an Indian fight which once 
occurred there, after which the ground was 
left covered wi.h bones. 

Passing on, to the left, note the water- 
lines on the side of the mountain. 

Tooele Station— is six miles from the 
last, and is the one nearest the thriving 
town of Tooele, which is situated to the 
left about two miles, close in beside the 
mountain. The business of the citizens 



of the town is principally agriculture and 
fruit raising. It is considered the best 
fruit and vegetable district in the Terri- 
tory 

Tooele is the county seat of Tooele 
county; population, about 2,000. Along 
the base of the mountain the land is irri- 
gated from the little springs and creeks, 
in the mountain gorges, the waters of 
which seldom find their way to the lake 
below. About ten miles over the moun- 
tain, to the southeast, is located Brigham 
City. Leaving Tooele, sage and small 
cedar trees abound, together with a fine, 
silken bunch-grass; herds of cattle and 
sheep are numerous. 

The road is on a high plateau, curving 
with the mountain more to the westward, 
and some miles below the lower end of the 
lake. As we near the lower portion to the 
great valley, which lays on our right, the 
land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred 
yards below the end of the track, rises 
500 feet, completely locking in the valley by 
a mountain range or semi-circle extending 
in a great arch from the Oquirrh Range, on 
the east, to meet the range on the west, in 
one great bend, full two miles in curvature. 
Here, at the base of this rim, terminates 
the railroad — and where the terminus 
must remain for some time. On the south 
side of this curve, which, on the top, is less 
than one-half a mile in width, is located 
the city of 

Stockton — two miles distant from the 
end of the railroad. To reach Stockton 
the Railroad Company must tunnel 
through the rim, 1,000 feet, exclusive of 
cuts, at each approach. 

Stockton is now reached by stage, 
which also extends its route to Dry Can- 
yon, and the Ophir mining districts to the 
south and west. From Stockton to Dry 
Canyon, southeast, it is twelve miles; to 
Ophir, to the southeast, ten miles ; from 
Stockton to Salt Lake 39.5 miles. 

Stockton is in Tooele county, in the 
northeast corner of Rush Valley, and about 
one-half mile east of Rush Lake— a sneet 
of fresh water, two miles long and a half 
a mile wide. The town contains three 
smelting furnaces, several stores, hotels, 
saloons, and about 80 dwelling houses, 
with a population— by taking in the sur- 
roundings for two miles — of 600. 

The Waterman Furnace is on a slope of 
the mountain, close in the eastern edge of 
the town ; the Jacob's Smelter about a halt 
a mile west, at the head of the lake, 



124 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



and the Chicago Smelter about one mile 
to the southwest, on the eastern bank of 
the lake. The ores used at these smelters 
come from the several mining districts in 
the vicinity to the east, south and west. 
The huge piles of bullion at the depot 
piled up, awaiting shipment, attest the 
business of the place. 

Rush Valley, in the northern portion 
of which is Rush lake, is one of the class 
of valleys so often found in the Salt Lake 
and Nevada Basins — only varying in size. 
This is ten miles in length, and about 
three in width — land-locked, surrounded 
by mountain ranges, with a lake in the 
center and no visible outlet. 

Returning to Salt Lake, " change cars " 
for Ogden,- and again we take a look at 
the Great Overland trains. But we can- 
not think of neglecting to take a trip over 
the little 

Utah Northern Railroad. 

Principal office, Logan, Utah. 

S. n. H. Clark President. 

G. W. Thatcher Superintendent. 

T. L. Kimball Gen. Pass. Agt. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
commenced March 29th, 1872, and extended 
at different times to Franklin, 78 miles, in 
1874. In the spring of 1878 work was 
again commenced and the road completed 
to Blackfoot, on Snake River, ten miles 
above old Fort Hall, 180 miles from Ogden. 
Work is still progressing, and we are told 
another hundred miles will be built the 
present year. Trains leave Ogden opposite 
the Union Depot to the eastward. 

Leaving the depot, the road skirts the 
western edge of the city, across rich, 
broad, and well-cultivated fields, orchards 
and gardens, with the Wasatch Moun- 
tains towering to the right. 

From Ogden, it is 4.5 miles to 

Harrisville — an unimportant side- 
track — and a short distance further, at the 
foot of a spur of the mountains, is one of 
the many hot springs which abound in 
the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. 
The springs in cold weather send up a 
dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for 
a long distance. They are strongly im- 
pregnated with sulphur and other mineral 
substances. The odor arising from them 
is very strong, and by no means pleasant 
for some people to inhale. This spring is 
close on the right of the road, and besides 
the steam continually arising from it, is 



marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- 
sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. 

From the cars an occasional glimps of 
Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- 
merous islands, lifting their peaks far 
far above the briny waters. The views 
will be very imperfect; but as we near 
Promontory Point, and after leaving that 
place, excellent views can be obtained. 
On the left, only a few hundred yards 
away, can be seen the track of the Cen- 
tral Pacific — and near, the unimportant 
station of Bonneville on that road. Near 
are some fine farming lands, which yield 
large crops of wheat, barley and corn. 

With the rugged mountains on our right 
and the waters of the lake seen at times 
on our left, we find objects of interest con- 
tinually rising around us Far up the 
sides of the mountain, stretching along in 
one unbroken line, save where it is sun- 
dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is 
the old water-mark of the ancient lake, 
showing that at one time this lake was a 
mighty sea, washing the mounta.n sides sev- 
eral hundred feet above us. The ol d water- 
line is no creation of the imagination, but 
a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn 
rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine 
shells still attest the fact that once the wa- 
teis of the lake washed this broad upland. 
Beneath the highest and largest bench, at 
various places, may be seen two others, at 
about equal distances apart, showing that 
the waters of the lake have had three dif- 
ferent altitudes before they reached their 
present level. 

We are gradually rising up on to a high 
bench and will continue along near the 
base of the mountains for the next thirty 
miles. In places the view will be grand. 
The Great Lake at the southwest with its 
numerous islands in the distance, the well- 
cultivated fields in the foreground, together 
w T ith the orchards and rippling rills from 
the mountain springs, which we cross every 
few minutes, make a beautiful picture; 
then back of all, on the east, rises the Wa- 
satch, peak upon peak, towering to the 
skies. 
. From the last station it is 14 miles to 

Willard — This is a quiet Mormon town 
of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine 
buildings, but the greater portion are built 
of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most 
of the fences are of small willows inter- 
woven through large willow stakes stuck 
in the ground. The mountains near this 
town present indications which would as. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



125 




ENTERING THE PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT. 



sure the " prospector " that they were rich 
in various minerals. Strong evidences also 
exist of the great volcanic upheaval which 
once lit up this country with its lurid fires, 
most effectualy demolishing many philo- 
sophical theories, leaving their origina- 
nators to study nature more and hooks 
less. 

Near the city, in the first range of hills, 
is the crater of an extinct volcano, which 
covers several acres. The masses of lava 
laying around, its bleak, barren, aDd deso- 
late appearance would seem to indicate that, 
comparatively speaking, not many years 
had elapsed since it was in active operation. 

Leaving Willard, our course is more to 
the left, with broad fields and some fine 
dwellings ; then a strip of sage and alkali ; 
and eight miles north we reach 

Brigham — This is the county seat of 
Box Elder county, situated near the mouth 
of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. 
Like Willard, it nestles close under the 
shadow of the Wasatch, and is embowered 



in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The 
buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving 
trade and rapidly increasing population 
attest the importance of the place. The 
public buildings include a court-house and 
tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. 

From Brigham our course is more to 
the left, following around the great arc of 
the mountains, as well as the old Montana 
stage road. 

Call's Fork — is eight miles from Brig- 
ham, and is a little collection of houses, 
close in beside the mountain on the right. 
All around this mountain base are, at 
intervals, springs— some are cold and some 
are very hot-water — well-cultivated fields 
and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush 
knolls, rich soil and large crops; then 
occur barren waste and nary shrub. 

Two and a half miles further is 

Honeyville — Ah! here we have it ! a 
dozen stone and adobe houses on a 
sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley 
is now on the left, as is also the city of 



126 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Corinne, about six miles distant to the 
southwest. 

When this road was first built, a track 
extended to Corinne, which has in later 
years been taken up and abandoned, the 
why ! I will never tell you. 

Deweyyille is five miles further, 
around which, are some good farms and a 
gristmill. Curving around the point of 
the mountain and heading for the north, 
up Bear Valley, the grade increases ; sage 
is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the 
mountain gorges, and up we climb. To 
the west on the opposite side of Bear River, 
about five miles above the station, is lo- 
cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 
100 in number. Their tepees — lodges— can 
be plainly seen. These Indians took up 
this land in 1874, under the pre-emption 
laws of the United States, add abandoned 
their tribal relations. They own some 
large herds of cattle and bands of horses, 
and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. 

Passing on up a heavy grade through 
deep cuts for five miles and we are at 

Collinston — formerly Hamptons, once 
an eating station. Now abandoned. Meals 
are served at Logan, sixteen miles east. 

Just before reaching this station, the 
road cuts through a spur of the mountain 
that j uts out to the westward into the val- 
ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us 
climb this peak and take a look. To the 
north, six miles the Bear River canyons 
through a low spur of the Wasatch which 
reaches away to the northwest. To the 
w r est of this spur lies the Malad Valley, 
and Malad River ; the latter and the Bear 
come close together into the valley, imme- 
diately to the west of where we stand ; then 
flow close together down the valley to the 
south parallel for ten miles before they 
unite, in some places not more than 20 
feet apart. To the west of this valley rise 
the long range of the Malad Mountains, 
which, commencing near Corinne, runs 
nearly north to opposite this point, and. 
then bears away to the northwest. 

Only a small portion of the lands in the 
Bear or Malad valleys are cultivated; 
cattle and sheep are plenty. Leaving 
Collinston, our road is up a 100 foot 
grade, curving around to raise the spur 
of the Wasatch above alluded to, through 
which Bear River canyons a few miles to 
the northward. Finally the 

Summit — is reached and passed four 
miles from Collinston and we curve to the 
east and then to the south, around the nar- 



row spur alluded to, which separated Bear 
Valley from Cache Valley. 

From the Summit we have been rapidly 
descending into Cache Valley, which is on 
our left, and is one of the most productive 
in Utah Territory. The valley heads in tha 
Wasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, 
and is 40 miles long with an average 
width of six miles, to where it intersects 
Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- 
tant. The Logan River runs through the 
lower portion of this valley, and is com- 
posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, 
and Logan creeks, making a stream of 
ample volume to irrigate all the land in 
the valley, much of which is yet. open for 
pre-emption. 

In an ordinary season the shipments 
from this valley average 500 car-loads of 
wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- 
loads of potatoes, most of which go to 
California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels 
to the acre. 

Mendon — is the first station from the 
Summit, 5.5 miles distant, on the west side 
of the valley, and contains about "J 00 
population. 

From Mendon our course is due east to 
Logan, across the valley, which runs north 
and south, but before we start, let us note 
the towns situated on the arc, around the 
upper portion of the valley. The first is 
Wellsville, six miles south, on the west 
side, population 1,800. Paradise comes 
next, with a population of 500. Continu- 
ing around to the east and then north, is 
Hyrum, population 1,400. Next comes 
Millville, population 600 ; and then Provi- 
dence, population 550. This latter village 
is the first south of Logan. 

Looking north from Mendon, northeast 
of the point where we crossed the ridge at 
Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, is 
located the village of Newton, population 
800 ; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- 
ulation 500; next six miles is Weston, pop- 
ulation 500 ; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- 
ulation 300 ; then Oxford, seven miles, pop- 
ulation 250. These are all Mormon vil- 
lages, are all surrounded with well-culti- 
vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, 
with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- 
ing mountains rippling through all the 
streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with 
crops and fruits of all kinds abundant ; and, 
taking them all in all, they are prosperous 
and thriving communities, in which each 
one of the community seems to strives to ad- 
vance the good of all. They are an in- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



127 



dustrious, hard-working, self-reliant and 
apparently contented people, always living 
within their means. The population of the 
valley is upwards of 15,000. 

Leaving Mendon to cross the valley, we 
pass through a farm of 9,643 acres, upon 
which were 30 miles of fencing, houses and 
out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- 
ident Brigham Young, just before his 
death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- 
lege at Logan City, to be called " Brigham 
Young College." The trustees are leasing 
the lands — of which there are no better in 
the Territory — for the purpose of creating 
a fund to carry out the bequest. 

Crossing Logan River, and seven miles 
from Mendon, our train stops — 30 minutes 
for meals — at the city of 

Logan — This city is the county seat of 
Cache county, situated on the east side of 
Cache Valley, just below the mouth of 
Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in 
the valley — containing a population of 
about 3,000, most of whom are engaged 
in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. 
Water runs through the streets from the 
mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits 
and flowers abound. 

The city contains two flouring mills, a 
woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- 
pair shops, one hotel — the Logan House — 
and a branch of the Z. C. M. I., besides 
various small mechanical establishments. 
The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and 
seats 2,500 people. 

On the east side of the city, a round 
plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- 
jecting out from the average front of the 
mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. 
This plateau is about 500 feet in width, 
and shaped like the end of a monster canal 
boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the 
point, and looking west, the city is close 
at our feet, the Lroad valley beyond, and 
in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, 
over which we came from Bear Valley. 
To the right and left, the valley is spread 
out in all its beauty, and no less than 14 
towns and villages are in sight, surrounded 
with mountain ranges, which rise, range 
upon range, and peak overtoDping peak, 
the highest of which are robed in a per- 
petual mantle of snow. The view is one 
of the most beautiful that one could con- 
ceive. 

Upon this plateau, the Mormon people 
who reside in Cache and the four adjoin- 
ing counties, have elected to build a mag- 
nificent temple, in which to conduct the 



rites and ordinances of the Mormon 
church. The main building will be of 
slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, 
and 86 feet hign, with a grand tower 144 
feet high from base to pinnacle, and will 
cost, when completed, in about four years, 
$450,000 to $500,000. 

Around the outer rim of the plateau, a 
double row of trees have been set out, and 
the water from the mountain above con- 
ducted in little ditches all around and over 
the entire grounds. 

Leaving Logan, our road runs north, 
along the base of the Wasatch Mountains 
— having made a great horse-shoe curve 
from the summit. 

From Logan it is five miles to 

Hyde Park Station— The town of 
Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the 
mountain, one mile distant, and contains 
a population of about 800. 

One mile further, and after crossing 
Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- 
wood trees, comes 

Smithfield— This is a town of 1,200 
population, a short distance to the right of 
the road. Seven miles further is 

Richmond — another town of 1,200 
people, on the right, beside the mountain. 

These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- 
roundings, and the description of one is a 
description of all. They all have water 
running through the streets, orchards and 
gardens, and are all laid out with wide 
streets, by the side of which are rows of 
trees and good walks. 

Lewistown — is another small village of 
400 people, situated on the opposite side of 
the valley, four miles distant. 

Six miles further, and we reach the sta- 
tion for 

Franklin — This town is one mile north 
of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, 
consequently, is in Idaho Territory; popu- 
lation about 400. It is situated in Cache 
Valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb 
Creek about one mile from the station to 
the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch 
Mouutains. 

The county seat of Oneida county is 
Malad City, 40 miles due west. The vil- 
lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- 
ford, and Ciifton— heretofore alluded to — 
are to the westward of Franklin, from ten 
to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles 
east, over the mountains, are the towns of 
Paris, Montpelier and Bennington, aggre- 
gating a population of about 1,000. 

From Franklin, we turn westward and 



128 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



cross Chubb and Worm Creeks,along which 
are some fine farming lands ; pass through 
a number of deep cuts and hnd Bear River 
on our left, far below our road, with narrow 
bottom lands on each side. The road turns 
north and runs up on the east bank of the 
river a few miles where it crosses to the 
west and stops at a small side track called 

Battle Creek — twelve miles from 
Franklin. Soon after leaving the station 
the road turns west up Connor's Canyon 
where, in the winter of 18(33-4, Gen. Connor 
had his celebrated fight with the Shoshone 
Indians. At the time of this fight there 
was two foot of snow on the ground, and 
the weather very cold. The Indians — some 
hundreds — were hid in the Canyon among 
the willows along the Creek, and in the 
cedars to the right along the bluff's. By a 
vigorous charge of the troops, the Indians 
were completely overcome, and with few 
exceptions, none were left alive to tell the 
tale. The bones of the dead are still to be 
seen near the station. 

In ascending the Canyon the grade is 
heavy, deep cuts are numerous, sage brush 
abounds, and the country is very broken, 
only adapted to stock raising. 

Herds of cattle and sheep are to be seen, 
and on reaching Marsh Valley, 8 miles 
from Battle Creek, a few well-cultivated 
farms. 

Swan Lake — is the next station, just be- 
low a small' sheet of water of that name, 
in which sport, at certain seasons of the 
year, numbers of swans. The Malad 
Mountains border the valley on the west, 
beyond which is Malad Valley and river 
of same name, also Malad City, 20 miles 
distant. Pass on down the valley, north 
21 miles, we come to 

Oneida,— a small town of perhaps fifty 
people. The famous Soda Springs of Idaho, 
are 30 miles east of this station, where are 
ample hotel accommodations for tourists, 
but the facilities for reaching them are 
limited, as there is no regular stage line ; 
livery team must be procured at Oneida. 

Leaving Oneida, a low cut in the mount- 
ains about five miles distant to the north- 
east, marks the passage of Port Neuf River 
through Port Neuf Gap. The old stage 
road is on our right, along the base of the 
mountain. After crossing a number of 
small creeks, and about eight miles from 
Oneida we come to Port Neuf River, and 
follow it for the next thirt3 r -six miles. 

Along this river are many peculiar rock 
formations. In places the rocks rise like a 



solid wall, from 20 to 100 feet from the 
ground in a line of uniform height for 
miles in extent, resembling huge fortifica- 
tions. In several places along the road 
there are two and sometimes three of these 
walls running parallell with each other. 
Proceeding down the river we come to 
"Robbers' Roost" on the right, about four 
miles before reaching the next station. It 
is the point where the Montana stage rob- 
bery was committed in 1864. 




EAGLE GATE. 

Port Neuf — once known as Black 
Rock, so named for the ridge of slate rock 
to be seen just east of the station. Contin- 
uing down the river 20 miles we come to 

Ross Fork. — This is a small station on 
the river of the same name. The lands 
are mostly covered with sage brush, hrery 
rich, and with irrigation, water for which 
is abundant — could be made very produc- 
tive. Stock raising is about the only occu- 
pation the few settlers are engaged in. 

The direction of our road from this 
point is north ; thirteen miles brings us to 
the end of the road, at 

Blackfoot — named for the Blackfoot 
Indians, has a population of about 350 
(March 1879). It has several hotels, stores 
of various kinds, a bank, express, telegraph, 
freight, and stage offices. It is situated on 
a broad sage-covered plain, with the Black- 
foot River one mile to the south; the 
Snake, about one mile to the northwest, 
marked by a dense growth of cottonwood 
and wallows. 

Placer Mines — The reported discov- 
eries of rich placer mines of fine gold 
along Snake River in the summer of 1878, 
created quite an excitement in the mining 
camps of the Pacific Slope, and hundreds 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



129 



of claims have been staked off, extending 
for 25 miles above and below Blackfoot. 
From present prospects, these new gold 
fields will be visited by thousands during 
the coming season, and their value thor- 
oughly demonstrated. 

The Salmon River Mines — are 200 
miles northwest from Blackfoot, are very 
extensive, and very rich. Besides the Pla- 
cer mines there are rich veins of ore worth 
from $300 to $2,000 per ton. 

Freight —The Diamond-R.-line reports 
the receipts of freight, to be forwarded to 
Montana and the Salmon River mines, for 
18T8, to be 8,121 tons; received in ore and 
bullion from the same, 3,021 tons. 

Express — The Express Co. report the 
amount of gold received by them from the 
mines, and forwarded for the month of Oct., 
1878, to be $3,716,592, which they say is 
about a fair average for the year. 

Distances from Blackfoot : Old Fort Hall, 
west, 10 miles ; New Fort Hall , east, 8 miles. 

Taylor's Bridge, 29 miles, north ; Salmon 
City, 200 miles; Helena, via Salisbury, 
325 miles; Virginia, 255 miles; Deer Lodge, 
via Gallatin and Butte, 300 miles; Mis- 
soula, via Deer Lodge, 400 miles; Fort 
Shaw, via Helena, 400 miles; Fort Benton, 
via Helena, 470 miles ; Deer Lodge, via 
Helena, 380 mils ; Bozeman and Fort Ellis, 
via Virginia, 330 miles; Bozeman, via Hel- 
ena and Gallatin, 435 miles. Stages car 



rying passengers, mails, and express, leave 
Blackfoot daily. Fare about 15c. per mile 
Game of all kinds abounds in the valleys 



and in the mountains, while, along the 
water courses, wild geese and ducks are 
legion. The streams, little and big, are 
full of fish, notably the trout, which are 
very abundant and bite with a snap that 
makes an old sportsman feel happy. 

Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, 
plums, currants, and in fact, all kinds of 
fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this 
and adjacent valleys in great abundance. 
Although we are now in Idaho Territory, 
and shall speak of the chief towns and the 
routes to them in another plam 

Montana Territory. 

This Territory lies to the north of Idaho, 
and is generally considered solely as a 
mining country. Montana at one time 
possessed excellent "placer" mines and 
" gulch diggings," but they have been to a 
great extent, worked- out. Yet there are 
still some camps where good pay is being 

9 



taken out, and many of the " old diggings " 
are being worked over by the " heathen 
Chinee," with good results. The mining is 
now mostly confined to quartz, some of 
which yields rich returns. 

Although many rich mines of gold have 
been discovered within her borders, the im- 
portance of her agricultural resources are 
not to be ignored. The valleys of the 
Missouri, Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, 
and many other rivers, possess the very 
best of farming and grazing lands in quan- 
tities sufficient to support a large popula- 
tion. In the mines, enterprise and capital 
have, and will continue to develop great 
wealth, but here, as in other mining coun- 
tries, expensive machinery must be erected 
and a large capital invested before the 
mines can be developed and worked with 
profit, whil^ to the agriculturist and stock- 
grower Montana presents, with a contin- 
ually increasing home market, inducements 
to the poor emigrant second to no section 
of the United States. The people of the 
Territory are energetic and persevering, 
with full faith in the future of their Ter- 
ritory, and will, in time, render it what 
they contend it really is, one of the 
wealthiest sections of the Union. 

Helena is the capital of the Territory, and 
contains a population of about 4,500. It 
has suffered fearfully in the past by fires, 
which have several times completely de- 
stroyed the business portion of the city, but 
the energy and enterprise of her people 
soon re-built it with substantial materials, 
brick and stone. The Herald and Gazette, 
both daily and weekly newspapers, are pub- 
lished here. The chief occupation of the 
people is quartz mining 

Virginia City— contains a population 
of 1,000. The Montanian, a weekly, is pub- 
lished here. It is one of the most spicy 
papers in the far West. 

Deer Lodge City — is the third in point 
of population in the Territory. It contains 
1.000 inhabitants, and has one weekly paper, 
the New Northwest 

Bozeman — is another thriving town, and 
the Aoaunt Courier its representative news- 
paper. 

The Great National Park is located in a 
portion of Montana, and the balance in 
Wyoming, for a concise description of 
which we refer our readers to Annex 
No. 26. 

Returning once more to Ogden, we will 
now take up the Overland Route. 



130 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




HON. LELAND STANFORD. 



Ex-Governor Lei and Stanford, President 
of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- 
nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, 
Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His 
ancestors were English, who settled in the 
Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning 
of the last century. Josiah Stanford, 
father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- 
nent citizen of the county, whose family 
consisted of seven sons — Leland being the 
fourth — and one daughter. Until the age 
ol twenty, Leland's time was passed at 
study and on the farm. He then com- 
menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- 
tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle 
& Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he 
moved West, and commenced the practice 
of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. 
Here, in June, 1850, he was married to 
Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find 
him following many of his friends to the 
new El Dorado. He landed in California 
July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the 



mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on 
the American River, Placer county, and in 
a few years he had not only realized a for- 
tune, but so far won the confidence of the 
people as to secure the nomination for 
State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican 
ticket. At this time the Democratic party 
had never been beaten, and the canvass 
was made on principle. He was defeated ; 
but in 1861 — a split-up in the ranks of the 
dominant party having taken place — he 
was nominated for Governor, and elected 
by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- 
formed the trust, is well known. Suffice it 
to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- 
islature and won the approval of all classes. 
Governor Stanford early moved in the in- 
terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 
22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento 
was still staggering under the devastat- 
ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- 
ture, with the whole country rent by civil 
war, he — all hope, all life and energy — 



CKOFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



131 



TIME TABLE. 



O G 



SALT LAKE DIVISION. 

DEN TO WELL 



R. H. Pratt, Division Superintendent. 



A. G. Fell, Train Dispatcher. 



WEST 


PROM OMAHA. 


SACRAMENTO TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 

from 
Omaha 


STATIONS. 


Elevatrn 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Daily 
Emigrant. 


2 :00* p m 
2:45 


6:15* pm 

6:40 

7:00 

7: M 

7:40 

8:10 

8-45 

9:10 

9.35 

9 :55 
10:10 
10:30 
11:20 
11:45 

12:15 a m 
12:50 

1:18 

1:55 

2:25 

3:15 

3:50 

4:20 

4:40 

4:58 

5:20 

5:30 

5:45 


..1032.... 
1041.. 


Lv JOGDEN Av 


...4340.. 
....4251.. 
4240.. 


*8:00 am 

7:35 

7:15 

6:55 

6:35 

6:05 

5:30 

4:58 

4:20 

4:00 

3:10 

3:20 

2:45 

2:20 

1:45 
12:50 

12:15 am 
11:50 
11:25 
10:55 
10:30 
10:00 

9:40 

9:20 

9:00 

8:50 

8:25 


7 :40 a m 
7:00 


3:15 


1048 . . . 




6:30 


8:43 


..1056... 
. . 1064 . . . 




4^:29.. 


5:50 


4:15 




.... 4271 . . 


5:20 


5:05 


..1075 . . 
1084 . . 


tBlue Creek 


....4379.. 


4:30 


6:30 




... 4905.. 
....4588. 
... 4:*3.. 
... 4226.. 

... 4*24.. 


3:40 


7.10 


..1092.. 




2:40 


7:50 


..1101.. 
..1108.... 
.1116 


Lake... 


1:50 


8 25 
9:00 


Monument Point 


1:15 
12:45 


9:30 


..1123.... 


tKelton 


....4222.. 


12:15 a m 


10:55 
11:45 


..1135... 
..1145... 


Ombey 

Matlin . 


....4310.. 
. . . 4630 . . 


11:20 
9:55 


1 :30 am 


. 1159... 




...4619.. 


8:55 


2:17 

3:05 


..1166.... 
..1179 


Bovine 


....4346.. 
....4494.. 


7:40 
6:55 


4:(0 


..1188.... 




....4812.. 


6:05 


5:10 


..1193.... 




....4999.. 
....5555.. 
...5970.. 
....6183.. 


5:20 


6:25 

7:30 
8 50 


..1207... 
..1214... 
..1224.... 


Loray 

JToano 

Pequop 


4.35 
4:00 
3:00 


9:40 
10:15 
10:50 
11:05 


..1230 ... 
..1235.... 
..1341. .. 

.1244 


tOtego 

Independence 

Moors 

Cedar 


... 6153.. 

....6004.. 

....6118.. 

...5978.. 


2:25 
1:55 
1:20 
1:05 


11:40 


..1250.... 


Av JWELLS Lv 


....56--'8.. 


l!:30 p m 



t Day Telegraph. % Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. 

The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. 



shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 1869, 
drove the last spike at Promontory, Utah, 
which completed the Great Pacific Rail- 
road across the American continent. 



Central Pacific Railroad. 

Official headquarters, corner Fourth and 

Townsend sts., San Francisco, Cal. 

Leland Stanford. . .President. . .San Francisco. 
C. P. Huntington — Vice-Prest New York. 

E. W. Hopkins Treasurer.. San Francisco. 

E.H.Miller, Jr Secretary... " 

A. N. Towne GenHSupt.. 

C. E. Fellows Asst. " .. " 

T.H.Goodman G.P.&T.A. 

J. C. Stubbs G.F.A 

S.S.Montague Chief Eng'r " 

B. B. Redding Land Com'r " 

W. H. Porter Auditor 

J. R. Watson G. Sup. Agt. 

E.L.Vanderbeurgh. £*//>*:. Tele'h 

F. Knowland, General Eastern Agent, 

. 287 Broadway, N. Y. 

D. W Filler, Gen. EasVn Agtfor New Eng. 

Boston, Mass. 



As most of the people who read this 
book — we conclude— are familiar with the 
history of the building of the Pacific rail- 
road, and as we have, for ten years past, 
published a condensed account of it, 
— the trials, struggles and final triumph of 
the enterprise — it must suffice for this time 
for us to give a few facts and figures, and 
then pass on to our review of the cities, 
towns and objects of interest along the road, 
and in the country adjacent thereto. The 
first survey was for the Central, over the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, made by Theo. 
D. Judah, in the summer of I860, tollowed 
by a more thorough one in the succeeding 

The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering 
spirit. " 

Emigrants, on the plains, are called by the older 
settlers "pilgrims. 1 ' 

"Cayotes 11 are a small species of wolf. "Jack 
rabbits" are of the hare family. 

Infantry Soldiers are called, by the Indians, 
" heep walk men. 11 



132 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



year, when a passage was discovered and 
declared to be feasible. 

In 1862, Congress granted the charter for 
the Pac tic railroad, and the first ground was 
broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, 
Cal., Feb. 22d, 1863, two years and eight 
months before ground was broken for the 
Union, at Omaha, Neb. The following 
will show the number of miles completed 
by the Central during each year : In 1863, 
'64 and '65, 20 miles each year; in 18(56, 
30 miles; in 1867, 46 miles; in 1868, 
364 miles; in 1869, 190^ miles, making 
690*^ miles from Sacramento to Prom- 
ontory, where the roads meet, May 10th, 
1869. 

The whole length of the Pacific rail- 
road proper, from Omaha to Sacramento, 
is 1,776^ miles, of which the Union built 
1,085 miles and the Central 690^ miles. 
By a subsequent arrangement, the Union 
relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and 
the latter purchased of the Western Pacific, 
in 1869, the whole of their road 137^ miles 
in length from SanFrancisco to Sacramento 
which gave the Central 882 miles of road 
from Ogden to San Francisco, and made 
the entire line from Omaha to San Fran- 
cisco, 1,914 miles. 

"All aboard," is now the order, and our 
train glides away to the northward through 
the western suburbs of the city of Ogden, 
crossing broad bottom-lands, much of 
which is under cultivation. The Weber 
River is on the left, and the long high 
range of the Wasatch Mountains on the 
right. Within a few miles the Ogden 
River is crossed, and also many irrigating 
canals. The track of the Utah Northern 
is on the right, and will continue to be, for 
the next 24 miles, near the foot of the 
mountain; and as the towns and objects of 
note were described on the trip over that 
road they will be passed in this place. 

Bonneville— is the first that we pass 
on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, 
situated near Willard, in the midst of a 
section of good farming land, which yields 
large crops of wheat, barley, and corn. 

Brigham— comes next, 7.14 miles 
further. The town is to the eastward, near 
the base of the mountaiDS, heretofore de- 
scribed under the head of the Utah N rth- 
ern. Passing Brigham, the road inclines 
to the left, west, and crosses Bear River on 
a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of 
which were driven in water 18 feet deep; 
and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles 
from Brigham, we stop at 



Corinne — This city is not as prosper- 
ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- 
ness as it was several ye^rs ago, owing 
principally to the fact that the Utah North- 
ern has been extended north too far; and 
tben the taking up of the branch track 
from the city has entirely cut off the 
freighting business to Montana and the 
northern settlements, that formerly went 
from this place. However, the citizens are 
by no means blue, but have built a canal 
from a point 11 miles to the northward, 
and now conduct the waters of the Malad 
River down to the city, and not only use it 
for irrigating thousands of acres of land, 
but for city and manufacturing purposes, 
chief of which is a flouring mill which 
produces about four tons of flour a day. 
Corinne has three churches, a good school, 
several hotels, and a weekly newspaper, 
tbe Record. 

Many of the citizens have embarked in 
the stock-raising business, and are doing 
well ; the range to the northward is very 
good. Around the town are many thou- 
sand acres of land, which only require 
irrigation and culture to render them pro- 
ductive in the highest degree. 

Again Westward! The farming lands 
gradually give way to alkali beds— white, 
barren, and glittering in the sun. Now 
the road curves along the bank of the lake, 
crossing the low flats on a bed raised 
sevei al feet above the salt deposits. The 
channel along the road, caused by excava- 
tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking 
water. Taste it at the first opportunity, 
and you will wish that the first opportu- 
nity had never offered. 

Quarry— is 7.64 miles further west, 
beiug a side-track where trains seldom stop, 
but skirt along the base of the mountains 
with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on 
the left. The cars pass over several long 
and high embankments, and reach the 
high broken land again at 

Bine Creek— which is 11.96 miles 
from Quarry. During the construction of 
the road, this was one of the hardest 
" Camps " along the whole line. 

Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek 
on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet 
high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind 
around the heads of several little valleys, 
crossing them well against the hillside by 
heavy fills. The track along here has 
been changed, avoiding several long tres- 
tle bridges, and running on a solid em- 
bankment. 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



133 



HO' 




PROFILE 
HOR. SCALE 200 MILES TO I INCH. 
VERT. SCALE 10.000 FEET TO I INCH 




600 



700 



Through more deep rock cuts we wind 
around Promontory Mountain until the 
lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the 
engine puffing and snorting with its ardu- 
ous labors, until the summit is gained, and 
we arrive at the former terminus of the two 
Pacific railroads — 8.93 miles from Blue 
Creek. 

Promontory — elevation, 4,905 feet; 
distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from 
San Francisco 830 miles — is celebrated for 
being the point where the connection be- 
tween the two roads was made on the 10th 
of May, 1869. 

This town, formerly very lively, is now 
almost entirely deserted. The supply of 
water is obtained from a spring about four 
miles south of the road, in one of the 
gulches of Promontory Mountain. 

The bench on which the station stands 
would doubtless produce vegetables or 
grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy 
soil is largely mixed, with loam, and the 
bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- 
uriantly. 



The L«ast Spike— On Monday, the 
10th day of May, 1869, a large party was 
congregated on Promontory Point, Utah 
Territory, gathered from the four quarters 
of the Union, and, we might say, from the 
four quarters of the earth. There were 
men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, 
the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, 
the everglades of Florida, the golden 
shores of the Pacific slope, from China, 
Europe, and the wilds of the American 
continent. There were the lines of blue- 
clad boys, with their burnished muskets 
and glistening bayonets, and over all, in 
the bright May sun, floated the glorious 
old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, 
power and prosperity. They are grave, 
earnest men, most of them, who are gath- 
ered here ; men who would not leave their 
homes and business and traverse half or 
two-thirds of the continent only on the 
most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of 
great national importance, such as they 
might never hope to behold again. It was 
I to witness such an event, to be present at 



134 



croeutt's new overland tourist 




AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



13? 



the consummation of one of the grandest 
of modern enterprises, that they had gath- 
ered here. They were here to do honor 
to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- 
road should he united, binding in one un- 
broken chain the East and the West. 
(Sacramento at that time was the western 
tei minus.) 

To witness this grand event— to he par- 
takers in the glorious act — this assemblage 
had convened. All around w T as excite- 
ment and bustle lhat morning; men hurry- 
ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' 
hands in hearty greeting, as they paused 
to ask or answer hurried questions. This 
is the day of final triumph of the friends 
of the road over their croaking opponents, 
for long ere the sun shall kiss the western 
summits of the gray old monarchs of the 
desert, the work will be accomplished, the 
assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign 
once more, broken only by the hoarse 
scream of the locomotive ; and when the 
lengthening mountain shadows shall 
sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- 
tled with the departing sunbeams, they 
will fall on the iron rails which will 
stretch away in one unbroken line from 
the Sacramento to the Missouri River. 

The hours passed slowly on until the 
sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering 
rays falling directly down upon the vacant 
place between the two roads, which was 
waiting to receive the last tie and rails 
which would unite them forever. On 
either road stood long lines of cars, the 
impatient locomotives occasionally snort- 
ing out their cheering notes, as though they 
understood what was going on, and rejoiced 
in common with the excited assemblage. 

To give effect to the proceedings, ar- 
rangements had been made by which the 
large cities of the Union should be notified 
of the exact minute and second when the 
road should be finished. Telegraphic 
communications w T ere organized with the 
principal cities of the East and West, and 
at the designated hour the lines were put 
in connection, and all other business sus- 
pended. In San Francisco the wires were 
connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, 
where the ponderous bell could spread the 
news over the city the instant the event 
occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- 
ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago 
were waiting for the moment to arrive 
when the chained 'lightning should be 
loosed, carrying the news of a great civil 



victory over the length and breadth of the 
land. 

The hour and minute designated ar- 
rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- 
sisted by other officers of the Central Pa- 
cific, came forward; T. C. Durant, Vice- 
President of the Union Pacific, assisted by 
General Dodge and others of the same 
company, met them at the end of the rail, 
where they reverently paused, while Rev. 
Dr. Todd, of Mass., invoked the Divine 
blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful 
piece of workmanship, of California laurel, 
with silver plates on which were suitable 
inscriptions, was put in place, and the 
last connecting rails were laid by parties 
from each company. The last spikes 
were then presented, one of gold from 
California, one of silver from Nevada, and 
one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. 
President Stanford then took the hammer, 
made of solid silver — and to the handle of 
which were attached the telegraph wires — 
a..d with the first tap on the head of the 
gold spike at 12, m , the news of the event 
was flashed over the continent. Speeches 
w r ere made as each spike was driven, 
and when all was completed, cheer after 
cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic 
assemblage, 

Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the 
C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of 
the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each 
way, meeting on the dividing line, where 
they rubbed their brown noses together, 
while shaking hands, as illustrated. 

To say that wine flowed freely would 
convey but a faint idea of the good feeling 
manifested and the provision made by each 
company for the entertainment of their 
guests, and the celebration of the event. 

Immediately on the completion of the 
work, a charge was made on the last tie 
(not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, 
lor that had been removed and a pine tie 
substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it 
was cut and hacked to pieces, and the 
fragments carried away as trophies or me- 
mentoes of the greatevent. Even one of the 
last rails laid in place was cut and battered 
so badly that it was removed and another 
substituted. Weeks after the event we 
passed the place again, and found an enthu- 
siastic person cutting a piece out of the 
last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure 
— that little chip of pine — for it was a piece 
of the last tie. We did not tell him that 
three or four ties had been placed there 
since the first was cut in pieces. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



137 



In the cars belonging to eacli line,_ a 
sumptuous repast was served up to the in- 
vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low 
towards the western summit of Promontory 
Point, the long trains moved away with 
parting salutes from the locomotives, and 
the celebration was ended, the participants 
s-peeding away to their far distant homes, 
and so closed the eventtul day on Prom- 
ontory Point. 

For sketch of Great Salt Lake, see 
Annex No. 21. 

For Hud nut's Survey of route to Oregon, 
see Annex No. 28. 

We now resume our westward journey 
from Promontory. Four miles west (near 
a gravel track on the north side) can be 
seen close to the road, on the south side, a 
sign-board, which reads, 

"TEN MILES OF TRACK IN ONE D\Y." 

Again, on the same side, ten miles fur- 
ther west, another with the same inscrip- 
tion will appear. These boards mark the 
track which was laid by the track layers of 
the Central Pacific company in one day, 
under the immediate charge of J. H. 
Strowbridge, Superintendent "of Construc- 
tion, H. H. Minkler, track layer, and James 
Campbell, Superintendent of Division. 
This undoubtedly is the most extraordinary 
feat of the kind ever accomplished in this 
or any other country. 

Why it was done — During the build- 
ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- 
tween the two companies as to which could 
lay the most track in one day. This ri- 
valry commenced early in the year 1868. 
The " Union " laying six miles; soon after 
the " Central " laid seven miles, and then 
again the " Union " seven and a half miles. 
The " Central " men, not to be outdone, an- 
nounced that they could lay ten miles in 
one day. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of 
the " Union » offered to bet $10,000 that it 
could not be done, and the " Central " re- 
solved it should be done. Consequently, on 
the 29th day of April, 1869, when only 
fourteen miles of track remained to be laid 
to meet the "Union" at Promontory Point, 
and in the presence of Governor Stanford 
and many prominent men from the East 
and West, and a committee from the 
"Union" to note the progress, the work 
commenced. 

How it was done — -When the car 
loaded with rails came to the end of the 
track, the two outei* rails on either side 
were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- 



ward off the car, and laid on the ties by four 
men who attended exclusively to this. Over 
these rails the car was pushed forward, and 
the process repeated. Behind these men 
came a gang of men who half-drove the 
spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At 
a short interval behind these came a gang 
of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes 
already inserted and added the rest. Be- 
hind these came a second squad of China- 
men, two deep on each side of the track. 
The inner men had shovels, the outer ones 
picks. Together, they ballasted the track. 
The average rate of speed at which all 
these processes were carried on was one 
minute and 47^ seconds to every 240 feet 
of track laid down. 

Material Required — Those unac- 
quainted with the enormous amount of ma- 
terial required to build ten miles of rail- 
road can learn something from the follow- 
ing figures : It requires 25,800 cross ties, 
8,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- 
plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- 
ing 4,:j62,000 lbs. This material is required 
for a single track, exclusive of" turnouts." 
To bring i his material forward and place 
it in position, over 4,000 men, and hun- 
dreds of cars and wagons were employed. 
The discipline acquired in the four years 
s nee the commencement of the road en- 
abled the force to begin at the usual time 
in the morning, calm and unexcited, and 
march steadily on to "Victory," as the 
place where they rested at 1 :30 p. m. was 
called, having laid eight miles of track in 
six hours. Here this great " Central ' ' army 
must be fed, but Campbell was equal to the 
requirements. The camp and water train 
was brought up at the proper moment, and 
the whole force took dinner, including 
many distinguished guests. After the 
"hour nooning," the army was again on 
the march, and at precisely 7 p. m. 10 miles 
and 200 feet had been compleP d. 

When this was done, the " Union " Com- 
mittee expressed their satisfaction and re- 
turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang 
upon the engine and ran it over the ten 
miles of track; in forty minutes, thus dem- 
onstrating that the work was wdl done. 

Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade 
of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we 
reach 

Rosel— situated almost on the edge of 
Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, 
where passenger trains never stop, unless 
signaled. A few miles further, and we 
pass the sign-board where commenced the 



138 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



work of laying the "ten miles of track in 
one day." Continuing along on the lake 
shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9.49 
miles further, we pass 

Lake — another side-track, and 6.98 
miles more arrive at 

Monument — Here, many times, the 
lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy 
alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this 
locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- 
lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering 
promontory, stretches far out into the lake, 
covered with excellent grass. We shall not 
see much more of the article for some time 
to come, for we are now on what might 
well be calltd the American Desert. Leav- 
ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to 

ISeco — another side-track of no account, 
as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy 
grade, we sweep around the head of the 
western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- 
ing its waters for the last time. Another 
run of 7.1 miles brings us to 

Melton— or Indian Creek, as it is some- 
times called. This is a station of more im- 
portance than any yet passed since leaving 
Promontory. There are large water -tanks 
by the road-side, supplied from a spring 
in the foot-hills some miles to the north- 
ward. Here the Railroad Co. fill their water- 
cars — a train of which run daily to supply 
many of the stations on this division of the 
road. The Red Dome Mountains show 
their scattered spurs to the north, and 
to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be 
seen lifting its rocky front far above the 
desert. 

From this station a daily line of coaches 
leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of 
the cars. The route passes through Idaho 
and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting 
with the steamers of the Oregon Steam 
Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the 
Columbia River — through to Boise in two 
days ; Walla Walla in four days ; Portland 
in five and a half days. 

The Boise Country, to which the line 
of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous 
passengers, lies in the southeastern portion 
of Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. 
Extensive mines of gold have been worked 
thei"; for years, and still continue to attract 
much attention, as rich mines of gold-bear- 
ing quart-; have been discovered and worked 
since the placer mines have been partially 
exhausted. The principal mining country 
is in that portion generally designated as 
the Boise Basin, which comprises a scope 
of country about 150 miles north and south, 



by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise 
mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone 
River. The principal streams in the 
mining section are Boise River, Fayette 
River, Wind Creek, Moore's Creek and 
Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie 
south of the Snake River and War Eagle 
Mountains. This portion of the mining 
belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one 
just mentioned. The ores are mostly silver. 

Boise City — is the capital oi the Terri- 
tory and county seat of Ada county. Popu- 
lation about 6,000. The town site was laid 
out in 1863, and now contains about 700 
buildings, a considerable portion of which 
are ot brick and stone. The town is sit- 
uated in a fine agricultural valley, about 
two miles wide by 50 long. It is the cen- 
ter of several stage routes, and also of trade 
for a large sec ion of country. The States- 
man, a tri-weekly paper, is published here. 

Idaho — is the second city in size in the 
Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 
36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which 
it is connected with stage, and also with 
Umatilla, Oregon. The World, newspaper, 
is published here — semi-weekly. 

Silver City — contains about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. The buildings are mostly granite. 
The Avalanche, a weekly paper, represents 
the interests of the town. 

We now return to the railroad, and 11.43 
miles further, arrive at 

Ombey — Passenger trains seldom stop 
here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to 

Matlin — This station is on the high- 
land, which sweeps out from the Red 
Dome Mountains. Here these no ountains — 
low sandstone ridges — are nearer the track, 
breaking the general monotony of the 
scene. The road lies on the northern 
border of a vast waste whereon we see 
few signs of verdure. The station is mid- 
way from east to west of the 

American Desert — which extends 
over an area of about 60 square miles. 
Over this vast extent the eye wanders in 
vain for some green object— some evi- 
dence that in times gone by this waste 
supported animal life, or will eventually 
in years to come. All is desolate in the 
extreme; the bare beds of alkali, or wastes 
of gray sand only meet the vision, if we 
except now and then a rocky hill more 
barren than the plains, if such things 
were possible. Evidently this desert was 
once the* bed of a saline lake, perhaps a 
portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The 
sloping plain sweeps off towards that 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



139 



body of water, and in places bends down 
until its thirsty sands are laved by the 
briny flood. There are many evidences in 
suppoit of the theory that it was once 
covered by those waters, although much 
higher than the present level of the lake. 
The saline matter is plainly discernible in 
many places, and along the red sandstone 
buttes which mark its northern border. 
The Jong line of water- wash, so distinctly 
seen at Ogden, and other points along the 
lake shore, can be distinctly traced, and 
apparently on the same level as the bench 
at those places. The difference in the alti- 
tude of the road is plainly indicated by 
this line, for as we journey westward, and 
the elevation of the plateau increases, we 
find that the water-wash line blends with 
the rising ground and is seen no more. 

Matlin is an unimportant station, 10.78 
miles from 

Terrace— Here the railroad company 
have erected work-shops and a 16-stall 
round-house. To the northward Ihe hills 
which mark the entrance to the Thousand 
Spring Valley are plainly seen ; they are 
brown, bare and uninviting as the country 
we are parsing through. Some mines are 
reported near, but have not yet been de- 
veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to 

Bovine— Here there is little of interest 
to note, the face of the country remaining 
about the same, though gradually improv- 
ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- 
vals, and the sage-brush seems to have 
taken a new lease of life, indicating a more 
congenial soil. 

Continuing on 10.85 miles further we 
reach 

Luciii — At this point we find water 
tanks supplied by springs in the hills at 
the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley, 
which lies to the north, just behind that 
first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the 
Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. 
Thj valley is about four miles wide, and 
not far from 60 miles long, taking in its 
windings from this point to where it 
breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- 
ley. It is little better than one continual 
bog in the center — the water from tLe nu- 
merous brackish springs found there 
standing in pools over the surface. There 
is good range of pasturage for the cattle in 
the valley and hills beyond. The old em- 
igrant road branches off' at or near the 
station, one road passing through the val- 
ley, the other following nearly the line of 



railroad until it reaches the Humboldt via 
Humboldt Wells. 

Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small 
stream which courses through the valley 
its entire length, sinks near by the station, 
rising and sinking at intervals, until it is 
lost in the desert. 

Before reaching the next station we 
leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. 
Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our 
train arrives at 

Teconia — In 1874 quite an excitement 
was created among the mining operators 
by the discovery of rich silver and lead 
mines, situated about five miles south of 
this station in the Toajio range of moun- 
tains. A new town was laid out at the 
mines — called Buel. A smelting furnace 
was erected at the mines and a run of 200 
tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 
U00, which was shipped to San Francisco 
on one train, creating no small excitement 
on California street. Indications of coal 
mines have been found in the vicinity, but 
no systematic effort has yet been made to 
develop them. 

Stock-raising is now the principal busi- 
ness of this country. To the northward of 
this station, and in fact for the last two 
stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, 
and at the stations, pens and shutes for 
shipping. 

Pilot Peak, a noted landmark which 
has been visible for the past fifty miles, 
lies almost due south of this station — dis- 
tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks 
— the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains 
— rising about 2,500 feet above the barren 
sands. For about half-way from the base 
to the summit the sides are shelving piles 
of shattered rock — huge masses crushed to 
atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly 
the summit looking like some old castle 
when seen at a distance. From Promontory 
Point looking westward, this vastpile can be 
seen on a clear day— a dark mass amid the 
blue haze which bounds the western horizon. 
To the emigrant, in early days, before the 
railroad, it was a welcome landmark, point- 
ing his course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- 
sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to 
find water and feed for his weary teams, 
afer crossing the barren waste. 

From Tecoma it is 9.56 miles up-grade to 

Montello— elevation 4,999 feet. The 
general aspect of the country is changing 
with the increasing elevation. We ap- 
proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the 
Goose Creek Range, the sides and gulches 



140 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



of which afford pasturage and water at 
intervals. We are leaving the barren 
sands behind us, and the country looks 
more capable of supporting animal life. 

Continuing the up-grade — over 550 feet 
within the next 9.6 miles — we arrive at 

IiOray — a station of little importance 
to the traveler. 

From Loray, up we go for 7.1 miles 
further to 

Toano — until recently the end of the 
division. 

The company have here erected work- 
shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is 
centrally located as regards many mining 
districts in Eastern .Nevada, among which 
are Egan Canyon, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- 
son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek— all 
of which are under rapid development. A 
stage line is in operation from this place to 
Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, 
a distance of 90 miles south. Soon after 
leaving Toano we beg<n the ascent of Ce- 
dar Pass, which divides the Desert from 
Humboldt Valley. The country is more 
broken, but possessing more vegetation. 
We have passed the western line of the 
desert, where, in early days, the travel- 
worn emigrant wearily toiled through the 
burning sand, his journey unenlivened by 
the sight of water or vegetation. One word 
more, regarding this desert : The term sand 
is generally applied, when speaking of the 
soil of the barren wastes which occur at 
intervals along the road. With one or two 
exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well 
applies to the desert we have crossed. 
Most of the surface of this waste is sand, 
fine, hard and grey, mixed with marine 
shells and fossilized fragments of another 
age. There is no evidence on which to 
found a hope that this portion of the 
country could be rendered subservient to 
the use of man, consisting, as it does, of bed s 
of sand and alkali, overlaying a heavy 
gravel deposit. Ages must pass away 
before nature's wondrous changes shall 
render this desert fit for the habitation of 
man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 
miles, we pass 

Peqaop— and 5.83 miles further 

OtegO- both side-tracks of little im- 
portance. Then we commence to descend, 
and 5.6 miles further arrive at 

Independence — Independence 
Springs, from which this station derives its 
name, are near by, and supply an abun- 
dance of very good cold water. 

Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, 



lie to the southward. The two first named 
are small and valueless except for grazing 
purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or 
rather a low range of hills, ( xtends far to 
the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south 
of the pa^s, is the South Fork of the Hum- 
boldt which canyons through thi«* range, 
running to the east and north of another 
range until it reaches the main Humboldt. 
Although the range first mentioned, after 
having united with the western range south 
of the South Fork, extends much farther 
south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, 
which is situated in the south end of Ruby 
Valley, near to the South Fork. From 
this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, 
which may be taken as the length of the 
valley. The average width is ten miles 
from the western range mentioned to the 
foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in 
the valley to the east. A large portion of 
this valley is very productive ard is occu- 
pied by settlers — mostly discharged sol- 
diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- 
ern portion of the valley is Ruby and 
Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- 
der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in 
high water they are united, forming a 
brackish sheet of water about 15 miles 
long by seven in width, which ha3 no out- 
let. It is — like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- 
amid lakes in the Truckee Desert -r-merely 
a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to 
evaporate in the dry summer. The old 
stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, 
crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- 
tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby 
Range lies GoshootLake, another brackish 
pond, with two small tributaries and no 
outlet, rather wider and about the same 
length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- 
tween Goshoot and the railroad lies Snow 
Lake, about five miles in diameter, possess- 
ing the same general characteristics as the 
others. With the exception of the valleys 
around these lakes and along the water- 
courses, the country is valueless except for 
stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich 
silver lodes have been discovered, some 
rock of which has been found to assay as 
high as $600 per ton. 

Returning to Independence, we again 
proceed westward— the country is rolling 
and broken — and the up-grade continues 
6.1 miles to 

Moore's — on the summit of Cedar 
Pass. We now have down-grade for oil 
miles to the Nevada Desert, 

In general outline this pass resembles a 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



141 



TIME T^ZBLIE. 



WELLS 



HUMBOLDT DIVISION. 

TO WINNEMUCCA. 



G. W. Coddington, Division Superintendent. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 


SACRAMENTO TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight. 


Daily 

Express 

let & 2d el's 

5:5"> am 

6:15 

6:25 

6:45 

7:15 

7:23 

7 50 

8:15 * 

9:07 

9:35 
10:15 
11:45 
11:05 
11:30 

12 :00 m 
12:30 * am 

1:05 

1:24 

1:40 

2:09 

2:40 

3:06 

3:20 p m 


Distance 

from 
Omaha. 

.-..1250.. 
...1258.. 


STATIONS. 


....5628.. 
....5483.. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 21 el's 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight. 


12:15 pm, 
1<5:53 


Lv DWELLS Ar 


8:15 p m 

7:45 

7:33 

7:18 

6:40 

6:38 

6 .03 

5:20 * 

4:48 

4.05 

3:36 

3:11 

2:52 

2 30 

2:06 

1:20 * 

1:05 

12:48 p m 
12:20 
11:05 
11:35 
11:10 
10:55 a m 


11:45 am 
11:05 


luO 


...1263.. 
...1270.. 




...5400.. 


10:40 


2:03 


... Deeth 


....5340.. 
....5227.. 


10:05 


3:15 


...1283. 


...tHalleck 


9:00 


3-30 


...1287.. 


Peko 


....5204.. 
....5135. 
....5065.. 


8:45 


4:33 
5:20 


...1298 . 
...1307. 


Osina 

rElko 


7:00 
6:45 


6:15 


...1319. 




...4981.. 
....4903.. 


5:50 


7:45 


...1330.. 

...1339 

...1349.. 

...1358 

...1368 

...1379.. 




4:55 


8:35 




....4840.. 


3:40 


9:25 

10:10 


Cluro 


....4766.. 
... 4690.. 
....4636.. 

...4548.. 
. ..4508.. 

...4506.. 


2:50 
1:55 


11:00 
11:55 


Shoshone 


12:55 am 
11:55 


12:48 am 
1:(8 


...1390.. 
1395 


tBattle Mountain 

Piute 


11:02 
10:40 


1:45 


...1403.. 




....4505.. 


10:05 


2:15 


...1410.. 




....4505.. 


9:35 


3:13 


...1423.. 
. 1436 




... 4421.. 


8 37 


4 :05 




....4375.. 


7:40 


4:48 


.. 1445.. 
...1451.. 


Tule 


....4387.. 


6:57 


5:15 am 


Ar....iWINNEMUCCA ....Lv 


....4315.. 


6:30 pm 



t Day Telegraph. % Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. 

The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. 



rather rou°:h, broken plateau, bent upward 
in the middle, forming a natural road-bed 
from the desert to the Humboldt Valley. It 
was once covered with scrub cedar, which 
has been cut off for use by the Railroad 
Company and others. Some is still ob- 
tained in the mountains to the northward. 
About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy 
peak marks the point where Thousand 
Spring Valley bends to the southward, and 
from its divide slopes down to the valley 
of ihe Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is 

CJedar — a small side-track, and six 
miles further brings our train to the end of 
the Salt Lake Division and to Humboldt 
We" Is. 

liVells— is now the commencement of 
the Humboldt Division, where are located 
the usual round-house and machine shops 
of a division. The station is 1,250 miles 
from Omaha, and 664«from San Francisco, 
with an elevation of 5,628 feet. Owing to 



the location of railroad shops at this place 
much improvement is noticeable in the 
last few r years. It contains a population of 
about 200. 

The chief points of interest around the 
station are ihe celebrated 

Humboldt Wells — around which the 
emigrants, in early times, used to camp 
while they recruited their teams after a 
long, hard journey across the desert. The 
wells are situated in the midst of a beauti- 
ful meadow or valley, which, from this 
point, slopes away until it joins with the 
Humboldt or main valley. The springs, 
or wells — about twenty in number — are 
scattered over this little valley ; one from 
which the company obtain their supply of 
water being within 200 yards of the road, 
and about that distance west of the station. 
A house has been built over it, and the 
water is raised into the tanks by means of 
an engine. 



142 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVEULAND TOUEIST 



These wells would hardly be noticed by 
the traveler, unless his attention was called 
to them. Nothing marks their presence 
except the circle of rank grass around 
them. When standing on the bank of one 
of these curious springs you look on a still 
surface of water, perhaps six or seven feet 
across, and nearly round, no current dis- 
turbs it ; it resembles a well more than a 
natural spring, and you look around to see 
the dirt which was taken therefrom when 
the well was dug. The water, which is 
slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seep- 
ing off through the loose, sandy loam soil 
of the valley. No bottom has been found 
to these wells, and they have been sounded 
to a great depth. Undoubtedly they are 
the craters of volcanoes, long since extinct, 
but which at one time threw up this vast 
body of lava of which the soil of Cedar i 
Pass is largely composed. The whole face I 
of the country bears evidence of the mighty j 
change which has been taking place for j 
centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks ; j 
lava decomposed and powdered ; huge ' 
blocks of granite and sandstone in the j 
foot-hills, broken, shattered and thrown j 
around in wild confusion, are some of the 
signs indicative of an age when desolation 
reigned supreme. The valley in which 
the wells are situated is about five miles 
long by three wide, covered with a luxuri- 1 
ant growth of grass. It is excellent farm- i 
ing land, capable of producing luxuriant i 
crops of vegetables, grain or grass. The | 
low hills afford an extensive "range" and : 
good grazing. The transition from the 
parched desert and barren upland to these | 
green and well-watered valleys is so sud- 
den that it seems like the work of magic. 
One moment in the midst of desolation, 
the next in the midst of the green valleys 
redolent with the aroma of the counties 
flowers which deck their breasts. 

Rich mineral discoveries have been 
made about 3 > or 40 miles southeast of 
Wells — east of Clover Valley — in the John- 
son & Latham district. The veins are re- 
ported large, well-defined, and rich in sil- 
ver, copper and lead; large deposits of 
iron ore have also been found. The dis- 
trict is well supplied with wood and water, 
and easy of access from the railroad. A 
stage runs through the district, extending 
100 miles south to Shellburn, near the old 
overland stage road, in the Shellcreek 
mining district. A stage line is also in 
operation to the Bull Run district. 

Stock-raising occupies the attention of 



most of the settlers about the Wells, and to 
the northward. 

Leaving Humboldt Wells we proceed 
down the valley lor a few miles, when we 
enter the main valley of the Humboldt, 
which is very rich, but the seasons are too 
short for agricultural purposes. The soil 
is a deep, black loam, moist enougn lor an 
purposes without irrigation, from 15 inches 
to two feet deep. This portion of the Hum- 
boldt extends for about 80 miles in length, 
with an average width of ten miles, nearly 
every acre included therein being of qual- 
ity described. From Osino Canyon to the 
head-waters of the valley is occupied by 
settlers who have taken up hay ranches 
and stock ranges. The river abounds in 
fish and the foothills with deer and other 
game. 

The Humbot dt River rises in the Hum- 
boldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, 
and courses westerly for about 250 miles, 
when it bends to the south, emptying into 
Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the 
Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of 
the distance, possessing few fords or con- 
venient places for crossing. The railroad 
follows dowm its northern bank until it 
reaches Twelve-mile Canyon, about 16 
miles west of Carl in. Here it crosses to 
the south side of the river and continues 
about 170 miles, when it crosses again and 
leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in 
full view of the river and lake. 

The main stream has many varieties of 
fish, and at certain seasons of the year its 
waters are a great resort for wild clucks 
and geese. Where it enters the lake the 
volume of water is much less than it is 100 
miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil 
through which it passes. Of the valleys 
bordering it we shall speak separately, as 
each division is totally distinct in its gen- 
eral features. The " old emigrant road " 
can be distinctly traced along the river 
from its head to its source. 

From Wells, continuing down grade, it 
is 7.5 miles to . 

Talasco— a sma'.l side - track, five 
miles from 

Bishop's— This is another unimpor- 
tant side-track, where Bishop's Valley 
unites with the Humboldt. Tlrs valley is 
70 miles long, with an average width of 
five miles. It is very fertile, being watered 
by Bishop's Creek, which rises in the Hum 
boldt Mountains, near Humboldt Canyon, 
about 70 miles to the northeast, and winds 
through the valley. 



AND TACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



141 



Deeth — is passed 7.7 miles from Bish- 
op's, and 12.9 miles further we arrive at 

Hal leek- — At this station Government 
stores are left for Fort Halleck, a military- 
station on the opposite side of the river. 
At the foot of the mountain — about twelve 
miles distant from the station — can be seen 
some settlers' buildings, which are situated 
on the road to the post. The military post 
is hid from view by the intervening hills. 
It is situated on an elevated plateau, which 
lies partially behind the first range, de- 
bouching thence in a long upland, which 
extends some distance down the river. 
The valleys which lie along the hills, as 
well as much of the upland, are settled, and 
for vegetables and crops not effected by 
early frost proved very productive. A 
ready market is found along the railroad 
for the surplus crop. 

Pelt© — is an unimportant station 3.3 
miles west of Halleck. Just after leaving 
the station we cross the north fork of the 
Humboldt on a truss bridge. This river, 
where it unites with the main stream, is 
about of equal size. It rises about 100 
miles to the north, and receives as tribu- 
taries many small creeks and rivulets. 



The valley of the North Fork is from 
five to seven miles wide and covered with 
a heavy growth of grass, and, like the 
main valley, is not susceptible of cultiva- 
tion to any great extent. Some kinds of 
vegetables, where properly cultivated, yield 
handsome returns. The' seasons are long 
enough, and the absence of early and late 
frosts insures a natural crop. Around the 
head of this valley are many smaller ones, 
each tributary stream having its own sepa- 
rate body of valley land. Some are per- 
fect gems, nestled among the hills and 
almost surrounded by timb< r. Here game 
in abundance is found— quail, grouse, hare, 
deer and bear, and sometimes a "moun- 
tain lion." The tourist, angler and hunter 
will find enough to occupy them pleas- 
antly for a short stay, should they choose 
to visit this region. In the main and 
smaller valleys are many thousand acres of 
Government land unclaimed,excepting that 
portion owned by the Railroad Company. 
The Humboldt and all its iributary val- 
leys, as a range for stock, have no su- 
perior west of the Rocky Mountains. The 
I winters are mild— snow rarely falling 
I sufficiently deep to render it necessary to 




INDIANS WATCHING THE "FIRE WAGONS."— SEE ANNEX NO. 48. 



144 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in 
the valleys and among the hills, which 
have never received any attention or care. 
Stock-raisers are turning their attention of 
late to this country and find it very remu- 
nerative. The range is not confined to 
the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the 
mountain sides produce the bunch-grcn i n 
profusion. Wherever sage-brush grows 
rank on the hill-sides, bunch-grass thrives 
equally well, 

Osino — is 11.8 miles down the valley 
from Peko — a signal station at the head of 
Osino Canyon, where the valley suddenly 
ends. 

At this point the northern range of the 
mountains sweeps down to the river bank,, 
which now assumes a tortuous course — 
seeming to double back on itself in places 
— completely bewildering the traveler. 
Across the rivtr the high peaks of the 
opposite chain rise clear and bold from the 
valley, contrasting strongly with the black, 
broken masses of shattered mountains 
among which we are winding in and out, 
seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now 
we wind round a high point, the rail 
lying close to the river's bank, and next 
we cross a little valley with the water 
washing against the opposite bluffs, half a 
mile away. A dense mass of willow 
covers the bottom lands through which the 
river wanders. On around another rocky 
point and we are in a wider portion of the 
canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow 
land in view, when suddenly we emerge 
into a beautiful valley, across which we 
speed, the road curving around to the right, 
and 8.8 miles from the last station we 
arrive at 

El ko — The county seat of Elko county; 
popu a ion about 1,200. Elko is a regular 
eating station for all trains from the East 
and West. The town formerly consisted of 
wood and canvas houses — now the latter 
class is rapidly being replaced by some- 
thing more substantial. During the last 
few years the town has improved mate- 
rially. The State University, which cost 
$30,000, is located here, just to the north- 
ward of the town. At this station — and 
almost every one to the westward — can be 
seen representatives of the Shoshone or 
Piute Indians, who come around the cars 
to beg. Any person who wishes to tell a 
big " whopper" would say, they are clean, 
neatly dressed, " child-like and bland," and 
perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, 
but an old plainsman would reverse the 



saying in terms more expressive than 
elegant. 

Near the town some Warm Springs arc 
attracting attention. The medicinal quali- 
ties c f the water are highly spoken of. A 
hack plies between the hotel and the 
springs, making regular trips for the ac- 
commodation of visitors. 

The rich silver mining district of Cope 
is about 80 miles due north of Elko, near 
the head waters of the North Fork of the 
Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- 
try. Some very rich mines have been dis- 
covered and several quartz mills erected, 
in that district, but the more recent dis- 
coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 
miles north, and are said to be very ricn. 

Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain 
City — north, in Cope district — 80 miles dis- 
tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. 
Stages also run to Railroad district — south 
25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles ; 
also a weekly line to the South Fork of the 
Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large 
quantities ot freight arrive at, and are 
re-shipped from this station on wagons, for 
the various mining districts to the north 
an I south. 

Another important business that has 
sprung up at Elko, within the last few 
years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- 
tains more cattle than any other two coun- 
ties in the State, and Elko ships irore 
cattle than any four stations on the road, 
being amply provided with all the facilities 
— roomy yards, shutes, etc., for a busi- 
ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- 
tined, before many years, to far exceed all 
others in the State. 

This section is well watered by rapid 
mountain streams, and the country abounds 
in game of all kinds — a hunter's paradise. 
The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty 
miles above and below Elko, cannot be 
ranked as among the best of 1 ts bottom-lands, 
though it is susceptible of cultivation to 
a considerable degree. But a narrow strip 
is meadow, the remainder being higher, 
gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and 
bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- 
less for agricultural purposes. 

Passing down from Elko — the valle} r 
dotted with the hamlets of the rancher 
for about nine miles — we come opposite 
the South Fork of the Humboldt. This 
stream rises about 100 miles to the south- 
east. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, 
and then follows down the eastern side 
of one of the numerous ranges, which, 




WOOD-HAULING IN NEVADA. (See Annex No. 39.) 



I 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



145 



under the general name of the Humboldt 
Mountains, intersect the country. 

For portions of the distance there is fine 
valley land along the stream, ranging from 
one to seven miles wide, adapted to early 
crops, but, as a body, it is inferior to either 
the Main or North Fork valleys. How- 
ever, the land is all admirably adapted for 
grazing purposes. 

Moleen — is a signal station, 1 . .8 m : les 
west of Elko. After leaving this station 
the valley presents a changed appearance. 
The meadow lands are broad and green, 
extending over most of the valley ; on the 
right the bluffs are high and covered with 
luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows 
are almost entirely closed out, and we en- 
ter Five Mile Canyon. Through this the 
river runs quite rapidly; its clear waters 
sparkling in the sunlight as they speed 
along, while occasional narrow strips of 
meadow land are to be seen at times. 

The scenery along this canyon is hardly 
surpassed by the bold and varied panorama 
^resented to our view along the base of the 
snow-capped mountains through which the 
r ver and railroad have forced their way. 
Soon after entering the canyon we pass 
several isolated towers of conglomerate 
rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 
feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan 
Valley, another strip of good bottom 
land, about twenty miles long, by four 
wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's 
Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee 
Range, to the northward, are many beauti- 
ful, little va.leys, well watered by moun- 
tain streams, waiting only the advent of 
the settler to transform them into pleas- 
ant homes. Timber is pleanty in the ra- 
vines and on the hill-sides— sufficient for 
the wants of a large population. Passing 
on to near the next station, we cross Mag- 
gie's Creek, which empties into the Hum- 
boldt from the north. This stream is 
named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, 
with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- 
cruiting their stock" in the old times 
when the early emigrants toiled along the 
river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, 
about 80 miles to the northward. 

The valley through which the stream 
flows is from three to five miles wide and 
very rich. It extends to the base of the 
mountains, about 70 miles, and is now 
mostly occupied by stockmen. The 
stream affords excellent trout fishing, and 
game of various kinds- abounds on the hills 
bordering the valley. Some time since, 
10 



a wagon road was surveyed and located up 
this valley to Idaho Territory. 

From Moleen, it is 11.6 miles to 

Carl in — This is quite a busy station, 
of about 600 population. Here are located 
the offices of Humboldt Division, and 
the division workshops. The latter are of 
wood and consist of a round-house of 16 
stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. 
The railroad was completed to this place 
Dec. 20, 1868. 

To the south of Carlin, from 15 to 60 
miles, are located mines rich in gold, sil- 
ver, copper and iron. To the northward, 
rich discoveries have been made, extend- 
ing to the Owyhee country. In both these 
sections new mining districts have been 
located, and the attention of experienced 
capitalists is being attracted thereto. 

Mary's Creek — rises three miles north 
and enters the Humboldt at Cariin. It 
rises in a beautiful lakelet nestled among 
the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of 
fine valley land. The valley of the stream, 
and that portion surrounding its head 
waters, is occupied by settlers. 

Proceeding clown the river from Carlin, 
for some distance the green meadows con- 
tinue fair and wide ; then the sloping hills 
give place to lofty mountains, which close 
in on either hand, shutting out the valley. 

From the appearance of this mountain 
range one would suppose that it had ex- 
tended across the valley at one time, form- 
ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, 
then some mighty convulsion of nature 
rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- 
sage for the waters which wash the base of 
the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet 
high. This place is generally known as 

The Palisades — Humboldt or 
Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not 
possess similar points of interest with 
Echo or Weber canyons, yet in many par- 
ticulars the scenery is equally grand. The 
absence of varied coloring may be urged 
against its claims to equality with those 
places, but, on the other hand, its bleak, 
bare, brown walls possess a majestic and 
gloomy grandeur which coloring could not 
improve. In passing down this canyon, we 
seem to pass between two walls which 
threaten to close together ere we shall gain 
the outlet. The river rolls at our feet a rapid, 
boiling current, tossed from side to side of 
the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in 
vain attempts to break away its prison 
walls. The walls in places have crum- 
bled, and large masses of crushed rocks 



146 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



slope down to the river brink. Seams of 
iron ore and copper-bearing rock break 
the monotony of color, showing the exist- 
ence of large deposits of these materials 
among these brown old mountains. Now 
we pa?s "Red Cliff," which rears its bat- 
tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. < A 
colony of swallows have taken possession 
of the rock, and built their curious nests 
upon its face. From out their mud pal- 
aces they look down upon us, no doubt 
wondering about the great monster rushiDg 
past, and alter he has disappeared, gossip- 
ing among themselves of the good old 
times when his presence was unknown in 
the canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's 
Bower," a brown arch on the face of the 
cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We 
could not see much bower unless it was 
the left bower, for we left it behind us. 

Twisting in and around these projecting 
cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach 

Palisade — a station, in the midst of 
the Palisade**, and apparently locked in on 
all sides. This is a busy place for a small 
one of only 200 population, as it is the 
junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- 
road, where are located their machine and 
workshops. Most of the box and flat cars 
of this company are made here in their 
own shops. The amount of freight han- 
dled at this station is enormous. Passen- 
gers can, almost always, see large piles of 
base bullion pigs piled up at the freight 
house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is 
mostly freighted here from the smelting 
furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and 
Palisade railroad, which alone handled 
31,038,884 pounds duringthe year 1873. 

One great item of freight taken down 
over this road — the E. &. P. — is timber 
from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use 
in timbering up the mines at Eureka. 

Palisade, beside the machine shops 
above named, has several large build- 
ings, used by the Railroad Company, for 
freights and storage and one a fine, com- 
modious passenger station; these with 
several stores, hotels, restaurants and 
saloons make up the town. 

The station is supplied with water from 
a huge tank, situated upon the mountain 
side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- 
tion. This tank in "turn is supplied from 
springs situated further up the mountain, 
that never fail in their supply. 

Now, as we started out to see what was 
worth seeing, let us take a run down over 



the road that comes in here and note what 
can be seen. 



Eureka & Palisade Railroad. 

Principal Office, Eureka, Nevada. 

E. Mills, President, Eureka. 

P. Everts Gen' I SupH Eureka. 

I. P. LAWLER..(?e/i7^. P. <fe T.Agt... Palisade. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
commenced in December, 1873, and- com- 
pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 
90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave 
for the South on arrival of trains on the 
Central, and arrive in time to connect for 
either the East or West. The trains make 
full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as 
commodious and nice as on any road in 
this country. 

Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt 
River and start for the West, the C. P. on 
the north side of the river and our little 
train on the south side. But a few hun- 
dred yards from the station we curve 
around to the left, while the C. P. makes a 
similar one to the right and is soon lost to 
view. The general course of our train is 
south, following up Pine Valley, which is, 
for the first ten miles, covered with sage- 
brush — as is also the surrounding hills. 

Bullion — is the first station on the bills, 
eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, 
and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- 
ther is over one mile in width. Now our 
train is at 

Evans — a simple side-track, important 
only to a few settlers near, who are culti- 
vating small fields and watching herds of 
cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on 
the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. 
Some fields are fenced, for the protection 
of the grass, which is cut for hay. The 
Cortez Mountains are on the west — the 
right side — and the Diamond range on the 
left. 

Willakd's — is 15 miles from Palisade, 
and four miles from 

Hay Ranch — This station is the first 
from Palisade where anything like busi- 
ness is to be seen. Here tne Railroad Com- 
pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land 
fenced, on which they cut annually about 
1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and 
store away in those long warehouses to be 
seen on the right of the road. The com- 
pany run freight teams from the end of 
their road at Eureka, and — in connection 
with it — to Pioche and all intermediate 
places. These teams are composed of 18 
mules each, with three and sometimes four 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



141 






i k 

■ • / 




AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. 

Near Shady Run, Sie.ra Nevada Mountain; 



wagons coupled together— as illustrated on 
pacress —employing from 300 to 400 mules, 
each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 
lbs. In winter, when their mules are not 
in use, they are kept at this station, and 
the hay is harvested by the company and 
used for their own stock. 

Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, 
we come to 

Box Springs — but trains do not stop 
only on signal, snd nine miles further 
stop at 

Mineral — This is a regular eating sta- 
tion, and in fact is the only one on the load. 
The meals cost $1.00, and are of the sub- 
stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. 

To the east is located the Mineral Hill 
Mine, once the most productive in the 
State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and 
the original owners, after taking out sev- 
eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to 
an English company — who, until within 
the last year, have allowed it to remain 



idle. It is now being worked with good 
prospects. 

From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to 

Deep Wells — so named for a deep well 
that was dug near b}', to procure water for 
the freight teams that were in the habit of 
traveling this r ad. The enterprising "Pil- 
grim" who dug the well was wont to charge 
$1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 
mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- 
ter." 

From Deep Wells the route is over a 
sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for 
seven miles, to 

Alpha— a small station, near where 
kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the 
smelting furnaces. To the west of this 
station is a broad valley, over which range 
large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a 
small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from 
Alpha is 

Pine Station — another place where 
charcoal burning is the principal busi- 



148 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on 
the bluffs as we pass by ; sage is abund- 
ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and 
very large — they call them " narrow-gauge 
mules" in this country. 

Cedar — is the next station, three ano-a- 
half miles from Pine. The country is 
rough and broken, and sage predominates ; 
the grade is heavy and the road crooked — 
twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to 

Summit — a station on the dividing ridge 
between Pine Valley on the west and Dia- 
mond Valley on the east. The face of the 
country is not very inviting, except for 
those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the 
summit the old overland stage road crosses 
from Jacob's Wells on the east to Austin 
on the west. 

From the summit the road enters Dia- 
mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, 
the road making, between Summit and 

Gardner Pass— six miles from Summit 
—a great horse-shoe curve, and fairly 
doubling back upon itself to get around 
the projecting spurs that shoot out from 
the range of high bluffs on each side. 

_ Continuing along up the narrow valley 
nine miles, we reach 

Diamon d— an unimportant statio n , 
and another run of twelve miles brings our 
train to the end of the road at 

Eureka— This city is 90 miles south 
of Palisade, and contains, with the near 
surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly 
all of whom are engaged in mining and de- 
pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- 
ber of stores, hotels and small shops, there 
are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting 
works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 
50 tons ot',ore each, daily. These extensive 
establishments, running night and day, 
make business pretty lively, and will ac- 
count for the quantities of base bullion 
hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as 
above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson 
and the Parker are the principal ones. 
There are two daily papers, the Sentinel 
and the Republican. 

The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- 
tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs 
from the depot at Eureka around the various 
smelting and refining works and mines of 
the different mining companies, and around 
Eureka, delivering freight and handling 
ores. This road is about six miles in 
length. The most prominent mines at 
Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- 
mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- 
son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. 



Stages connect at Eureka, carrying pas- 
sengers, mails and express to the various 
mining towns and camps in the adjoining 
country; to Hamilton, 40 miles, daity, 
which runs through the Ward and Pioche ; 
districts to Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 
miles ; toTybo, 100 miles ; Austin, 80 miles ; 
tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. 

The freighting business to Pioche and 
all intermediate towns and camps is very 
extensive, most of which is hauled by the 
Railroad Company's teams, as previously 
stated. 

The White Pine Country, is sit- 
uated to ihe southeast from Eureka, the 
principal city of which is 

Hamilton — This city contains a pop- 
ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- 
gaged in the mining business. Milling 
and smelting are the only occupations, there 
being two smelters and six mills. An 
English company is now engaged running 
a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the 
great mineral deposit known to be there. 
This tunnel, when completed, will be 6,000 
feet long— 7x9 feet, double track, "T" rail 
— and will tap the mines at a depth of 
1 600 feet. It is now completed about 
3,000 feet. Hamilton has one weekly 
newspaper— the News. 

White Pine — is nearly due east of Vir- 
ginia Ci'y, where the firstsilvei mining ex- 
citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and 
by many is supposed to be on the same 
range which produced the Comstock and 
other famous lodes. Possibly such is the 
case, though "ranges '' have been terribly 
shaken about in this section of our county . 

The Eberhardtmine, which first attracted 
attention to this locality, was discovered in 
1866, but the great stampede of miners and 
speculators to that quarter did not take 
place until the winter and spring of 1869. 
As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- 
j ority of cases, are not regular, being broken 
and turned in every direction. Some are 
flat, others dip at a" regular angle and have 
solid walls. The Base Metal Range in 
this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- 
ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce 
the ores into base bullion for shipment. 
For items of interest see Annex No. 80. 

We will now return 1 "> Palisade, and re- 
sume our place in the C. P. cars. Passing 
down the canyon, winding and twisting 
along around a succession of projecting 
spurs, we pass the " Devil's Peak," on the 
opposite side of the river, a perpendicular 
rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



149 



the water's edge. On, past the towering 
bluffs and castellated rocks — which, at first 
view, look like some old brown castle, for- 
saken by its founders and left to ruin, deso- 
lation and decay - we cross the river on a 
fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point 
we shall keep on the southern side of the 
stream until we near Humboldt Lake, 
when we cross it again, and for the last 
time. 

Our©— is a flag station, 10.4 miles 
west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- 
ing from the canyon. We now enter a 
more open country, with strips of meadow 
along the river's brink. Near this point 
is where the powder magazine of the rail- 
road company exploded in 1;68, while the 
road was building through the canyon. 

Nonh of the river, at the point on the 
opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- 
mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon". 
Where the road is cut through th< se points, 
they consist of gravel, sand and cement, 
having all the appearance of gold-bearing 
gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- 
wash, and not caused by volcanic wear — 
fine layers of sand, from one to five feet 
thick, and interspersed through the gravel, 
showing where the water rested and the 
sediment settled. 

Gravelly Ford— one of the most no- 
ted points on the Humboldt River in early 
days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon 
through which we have just passed was 
impassable The loDg Hues of emigrant 
wagons could not pass through the mighty 
chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil 
over the mountains until they could de- 
scend into the valley again. Coming to 
this point on the south side of the river, 
they crossed and followed up a slope of the 
opposite hills, thence along the table-land, 
and from tht nee to the valley above. A 
few would leave the river lower down and 
bear away to the south, but the road was 
long and rough before they reached the 
valley above the canyon. There were and 
now are other fords on the river, lower 
down, but none were as safe as this. With 
sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel 
bottom, it offered superior advantages to 
the emigrant. Hence it became a noted 
place — the point to which the westward- 
bound emigrants looked forward with great 
interest. Here was excellent grazing for 
their travel- worn teams. O wing to these con- 
siderations, large bodies of emigrants were 
often encamped here for weeks. At times 
the river would be too high, and they 



would wait for the torrent to subside. The 
Indians — Shoshones — knew this also, and 
many a skirmish took p ace between them 
and their white brothers, caused by mistaken 
ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- 
grant's stock. 

Connected with this place is an incident 
which, for the honor of the men who per- 
formed the Christian act, we will relate: 

In the early times spoken of, a party of 
emigrants were encamped here, wailing for 
the water to subside. Among these emi- 
grants were many women and children. 
While here, an estimable young lady of 18 
years fell sick, and despite the watchful 
care and lovii g tenderness of friends and 
kindred, her pure spii it floated into that 
unknown mist, dividing the real from the 
ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her 
friends reared an humble head-board to her 
memory, and, in course of time amid 
the new life opening to them on the Pacific 
slope— the young girl's fate and grave were 
alike forgotten by all but her immediate 
relatives. When the advance guard of the 
Central railroad — the graders and culvert 
men— came to Gravelly Ford, they found 
the lone grave and fast-decaying head- 
board. The site awoke the finer feelings 
of their nature and aroused their sympa- 
thies, for they were men, these brown, toil- 
stained laborers. 

The "culvert men" (masons) concluded 
that it was not consistent wiih Christian 
usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- 
fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. 
With such men, to think was to act, and in 
a few days the lone grave was enclosed 
with a solid wall, and a cross— the sacred 
emblem of immortality — took the place of 
the old head-board. In the day when the 
final reckoning between these men and the 
recording angel is adjusted, we think they 
will find a credit for that deed which will 
offset many little debits in the ledger of 
good and evd. Perhaps a fair spirit above 
may smile a blessing on iheir lives in rec- 
ompense of the noble deed. The grave is 
on the south side of the road, upon a low 
bluff, about five miles west of Cluro. In 
October, 1871, the Superintendent of the 
Division erected over it a fine large cross. 



" Corral," (Spanish) a pen made of posts set 
on end in the ground close together, and fastened 
with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a 
circle forming an inclosnre. 

Telfgraph Operators are called " lightning 
shovers.'" 
Outfit -Necessary supplies for a journey. 



150 



ceofutt's new oveeland toueist 



Upon one side is inscribed " The Mai- 
den's Grave," on the other, her name, 
"Lucinda Duncan." 




Passing on, we cross narrow patches of 
meadow land, and wind around the base 
of low hills until we reach a broad valley. 
Across the river to the northward can be 
seen the long, unbroken slopes which 
stretch away until they are lost in that cold 
blue line — the Idaho Mountains — which 
rises against the northern sky. Behind that 
gray old peak, whbh is barely discernible, 
the head waters of the North Fork of the 
Humboldt break away when starting on 
their journey for the main river. Farther 
to the left, and nearer, from among that 
darker clump of hills Maggie's Creek 
finds its source. 

Be-o-wa-we — is reached at a narrow 
point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles 
from Cluro. 

The Cortez mines and milis are situated 
about 35 miles south of this station, with 
which they are connected by a good road. 
At this point the Red Range throws a spur 
nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. 
It looks as though the spur extended clear 
across, at one time, damming up the waters 
of the river, as at the Palisades. The 
water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- 
dence of the theory that such w as once the 
case, and that the waters cut this narrow 
gorge, through which they speed along 
unmindful of the mighty work done in for- 
mer years, when the resistless current 
" forced a highway to the sea," and drained 



a mighty lake, leaving in its place green 
meadows. 

Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing 
line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, 
two tribes of Indians who seemed to be 
created for the express purpose of worry- 
ing emigrants, ste tling stock, eating grass- 
hoppers, and preying on themselves and 
everybody else. The Shoshones are very 
degraded Indians, and until recently, were 
like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old — 
their hand was against every man. and 
every man's hand was compelled, in self- 
defense, to be against them until they be- 
came almost unable to commit depreda- 
tions, and could make more by begging 
than they could by stealing. The term Be-o- 
wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its 
significance. 

After leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass 
through the gate, and wind along by the 
hillside, over the low meadows, which here 
are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad, 
but is covered with willows, with the ex- 
ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. 
Amid these willows the stream winds and 
twists about through innumerable sloughs 
and creeks, as though undecided whether 
to leave this shady retreat for the barren 
plains below. Perhap- the traveler will 
see a flock of pelicans disporting in the 
waters on their return from their daily 
fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. 
These birds, at certain seasons of the year, are 
to be found here and there along the river 
for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. 
They build their nests in these willow 
islands and rear the-ir young undisturbed, 
for even an Indian cannot penetrate this 
swampy, treacherous fastness. Every 
morning the old birds can be seen taking 
their Might to Humboldt Lake, where, in 
its shallow waters, they load themselves 
with fish, returning towards night to feed 
their young and ramble about the bottom. 

Soon after, leaving the station, Hot 
Spring: Valley comes in on the left — south 
—and by looking away to the south eight 
miles, can be seen columns of steam, from 
one of the nuny "hot springs" which 
abound in the " Great Basin." 

If you do not behold the steam — for the 
springs are not always in active operation 
— you will behold a long, yellowish, red 
line, stretching for a full half-mile around 
a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, 
muddy water and su phuric wash descends 
the hill-side, desolating everything in its 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



151 



course, its waters escaping through the 
bogs of the valley. 

Sometimes for hours these springs are 
inactive, then come little puffs of steam, 
then long and frequent jets, which often 
shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very 
hot. Woe to the unlucky hombre who 
gets near and to the windward of one of 
these springs, whe j. it sends forth a col- 
umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur 
water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will 
need a change of clothes, some simple 
cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of 
his friends — as well as of the congregation. 
There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- 
bling, sulphuric curiosities around the 
hills in this vicinity. The general charac- 
ter of all are about the same. 

There are a great many theories regard- 
ing these springs — what causes the heat, 
etc. Some contend that the water escapes 
from the regions of eternal fires, which are 
supposed to be ever burning in the center 
of the globe. Others assert that it is min- 
eral in solution with the water which 
causes the heat. Again, irreverent person* 
suggest that this part of the country is but 
the roof of a peculiar place to which they 
may well fear their wicked deeds may 
doom them in the future. 

Shoshone— is ten miles west of Be- 
o-wa-we; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the 
river to the right is Battle Mountain, 
which rises up clear and sharp from the 
river's brink. It seems near, but between 
us and its southern base is a wide bottom 
land and the river, which here really 
" spreads itself." We saw the same point 
when emerging from Be-o-wa-we. or " the 
gate," and it will continue in sight for 
many miles. 

This mountain derives its name from an 
Indian fight, the particulars of which will 
be related hereafter. There are several 
ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- 
ral name. This range being the most 
promiuent, deserves a passing notice. It 
lies north of the river, between the Owyhee 
Range on the north and the Reese River 
Mountains on the south. Its base is 
washed by the river its entire length — 
from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- 
most unbroken surface and even altitude 
the entire distance. In places it rises in 
bold bluffs, in others it slopes away from 
base to summit, but in each case the same 
altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet 
high, the top or summit appearing to be 
table-land. Silver and copper mines have 



been prospected with good results. 

Behind this range are wide valleys, 
which slope away to the river at either 
end of the range, leaving it comparatively 
isolated. 

Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- 
ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises 
about 40 miles to the northward, and is 
bordered by a beautiful valley about four 
miles wide. The stream is well stocked 
with fish, among which are the mountain 
trout. In the country around the head- 
waters of the stream is found plenty of 
game of various kinds, including deer and 
bear. 

Copper mines of vast size and great rich- 
ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, 
and among the adjoining hills. Whenever 
the copper interest becomes of sufficient 
importance to warrant the opening of these 
mines, this section will prove one of great 
importance. 

Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way 
down the river, the road leading back from 
the meadow land and passing along an 
upland, covered w^ith sage-brush. The 
hills on our left are smooth and covered 
with a good coat of bunch-grass, affording 
most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- 
mer and winter. 

Argenta — is 11.1 miles further west, 
This was formerly a regular eating station 
and the distributing point for Austin and 
the Reese River country ; but is now a sim- 
ple side-track. Paradise V T al ley lies on the 
north side of the river, nearly opposite this 
station. It is about 60 miles long by eight 
wide, very fertile and thickly settled. 
Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- 
dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and 
five wide. In general features it resembles 
the lower portion, the wmole, comprising 
one of the richest farming sections in the 
State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are 
situated in the head of the valley, and 
other small towns have sprung up at other 
points. 

Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain 
stream, upon which are a number of grist 
and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee 
Mountains and flows through these valleys 
to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of 
enormous size are found in the stream and 
its tributaries Bears, deer, silver-gray 
foxes, and other game, abound on the hills 
which border the valley. 

These valleys — the Humboldt for 50 
miles east and west, and the adjoining 
mountains — are the stock-raisers' paradise. 



155 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



Tens of thousands of cattle are now roam- 
ing along the Humboldt and adjoining 
valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- 
puted that there are not less than 350 000 
head between Promontory Mountain and the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains. One firm near 
this station has over 40,000 head, and one 
range fenced of 28,000 acres. 

A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese 
River Valley joins the Humboldt — coming 
in from the south. It is very diversified 
in feature, being very wide at some points 
— from seven to ten miles — and then dwin- 
dling clown to narrow strips of meadow or 
barren sand. Some portions of the valley 
are susceptible of cultivation, and possess 
an excellent soil. Otber portions are bar- 
ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only 
the sage-brush flourishes. This valley 
is also know T n by old emigrants as " Whirl- 
wind Valley," and passengers will fre- 
quently see columns of dust ascending 
skywards. Reese River, which flows 
through this valley, rises to the south, 180 
to 200 miles distant. It has many tribu- 
taries, which find their source in the moun- 
tain ranges that extend on either side of 
the river its entire length. It sinks in the 
valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- 
ing the Humboldt. During the winter 
and spring floods, the waters reach the 
Humboldt, but only in very wet times. 

Near where Reese River sinks in the 
valley was fought the celebrated battle be- 
tween the Whites and Indians— settlers and 
emigrants, 30 years ago— which gave the 
general name of Battle Mountain to these 
ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone 
Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the 
emigrants and settlers, who banded them- 
selves together and gave chase. They over- 
took them at this point, and the fight com- 
menced. From point to point, from rock 
to rock, down to the water's edge they drove 
the red skins, who, finding themselves sur 
rounded, fought with the stubbornness of 
despair. When night closed in, the set- 
tlers found themselves in possession of 
their stock and a hard-fought field. How 
many Indians emigrated to the Happy 
Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one 
knew, but from this time forward the 
power of the tribe was broken. 

From Argenta, it is 11.8 miles to 

Battle M ountain— This is a din- 
ner station for passenger trains from both 
the East and West, where trains stop 30 
minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and 
very lively while serving a good meal. 



Water for the little fountain in front of the 
Battle Mountain House, the railroad, and 
the town, is conducted in pipes from a big 
spring in the side of the mountain, three 
miles to the south. 

There are several stores, hotels, restau- 
rants and saloons, on the south side of the 
depot; also some large freight buildings, 
as this is the distributing point for a great 
number of mining districts, towns, and 
camps to the southward. 

The surrounding country is alive with 
herds of cattle, particularly on the north 
side of the river, and this station has be- 
come quite a point for cattle buyers, from 
California, to stop at and make their selec- 
tions. A stage leaves Battle Mortmain 
daily, for Battle Mountain mines, seven 
miles, Galena, twelve miles, Austin, 90 
miles, where connections are made for 
Eureka, Hamilton, Cortez, Belmont — 171 
miles — and all intermediate towns. Stages 
also run to Lewis District, 14 miles, and 
to Tuscarora, 68 miles, connecting for Rock 
Creek, twelve miles further, and Cornu- 
copia, 20 miles. Lew is is a new mining 
district, 14 miles south, where some rich 
silver mines have been discovered within 
the last two years. (See annex, No. 56.) 

Fast freight lines leave Battle Mountain 
daily for most of the cities, towns and dis- 
tricts above named. The tonnage from 
Battle Mountain Station averages about 
500 per month. The Messenger is a weekly 
paper published here. 

Battle Mountain, Galena, and Copper 
Canyon mining camps are in the moun- 
tains just south of* this station, and further 
to the south are the mining districts of 
Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Cortez, 
Diamond, Dun Glen, Humboldt, Grass 
Valley, and several others. In all of these 
districts rich mines are being worked; 
stamp mills and smelting furnaces are nu- 
merous. Since the building of the rail- 
road, low freights have resulted in the in- 
troduction of more and better machinery, 
the reduction in cost of milling ores, and 
the opening and working of veins of lower 
grade ores, which could not be profitablv 
worked when wagon freight prices ruled. 

Battle Mountain Station is in Lander 
county, the county seat of which is Aus- 
tin, 90 miles south. 

Austin — is situated near the summit of 
the Toiyabe Range, on the ground wmere 
the first silver ore "was discovered in this 
district, in May, 1862. The discoverer, W. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




M. Talcott, located the 
vein andnamed it Poney. 

As soon as it became 
known, prospeccors 
nocked in, and the coun- 
try was pretty thorough- 
ly prospected during 
1862 and 1863, Many 
veins were located, some 
of thern proving very 
valuable. Mills were 
erected at different 
points, and from that 
time forward the dis- 
trict has been in a pros- 
perous condition. 

Austin contains a pop- 
ulation of about ' 2,000, 
nearly all of whom 
are engaged in mining 
operations. The town 
has some extensive 
stores and does a very 
large business in the 
way of furnishing sup- 
plies for the mining 
camps surrounding it, 
for from50 to 100 miles. 
The Reese River Reveille 
is a live daily pub- 
lished here. To the 



south 



of Battle 

Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are 
several hot springs, strongly impreg- 
nated with sulphur and other minerals, 
but they attract no particular attention, 
being too common to excite curiosity. 

Leaving the station we skirt the base of 
the mountains to the left, leaving the river 
far to our right over against the base of 
Battle Mountain. We are now in the wid- 
est part of the valley, about opposite the 
Big Bend of the Humboldt. 

After passing the Palisades the river in- 
clines to the south for about30 miles, when 
it sweeps away to the north, along the base 
of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further ; 
then turning nearly due s uth, it follows 
that direction until it discharges its waters 
in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the 
river course from the great elbow, forming 
a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for 
three-fourths of the circumference. This 
vast area of land, or most of it, comprising 
many thousand acres of level upland, bor- 
dered by green meadows, is susceptible of 
cultivation when irrigated. The sage- 
brush grows luxuriantly, and where the 
alkali beds do not appear, the soil produces 
a good crop of bunch-grass. The road 



TRUCKEE RIVER. 

takes the short side of the semi-circle 
keeping close to the foot of the isolated 
Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of 
the river, behind the Battle Mountain 
Range, are several valleys, watered by the 
mountain streams, and affording a large 
area of first-class farming land. Chief 
among these is Quinn's Valley, watered 
by the river of that name. The arable 
portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, 
ranging in width from three to seven miles. 
It is a fine body of valley land, capable of 
producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass 
or vegetables. The hills which enclose it 
afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- 
rious qualities — spruce and pine predomi- 
nating — is found in the gulches and ravines 
of the mountains. 

Quinn's Rive?, which flows through this 
valley, is a large stream rising in the St. 
Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 
miles oistant. From its source the general 
course of the river is due south for about 
80 miles, when it turns and runs due west 
until it reaches Mud Lake. During the 
summer but little, if any, of its waters 
reach that place, being absorbed by the 
barren plain which lies between the foot- 
hills and the Humboldt River. Near the 



154 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



head- waters of Quinn's River, the Crooked 
Creek, or Antelope, rises and flows due 
north for about 50 miles, when it empties 
its waters into the Owyhee River. The 
head-waters of the streams which run from 
the southern slops of the Owyhee Moun- 
tains are well supplied with salmon and 
trout, and other varieties of fish. Quail, 
grouse, and four-footed game are abundant 
in the valleys and timbered mountains. 

Piute — is 4.9 miles west of Battle 
Mountain Station. Here passenger trains 
from the east and west meet. 

(Join — a flag station, is 7.8 miles west 
of Piute. 

Stone House— is 7.1 m"les further. 
This place was once an old trading post, 
strongly fortified against Indian attacks. 
The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- 
rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- 
lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To 
the south of this station are more of the 
many hot springs that abound in the Ne- 
vada Basin. 

We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the 
soil of which in places is smcly and in 
others alkaline, and then wind along around 
the base of a mountain spur that shoots 
away to the northward, and come to 

Iron Point — a small side-track, 12.4 
miles from Stone House. Here are located 
a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading 
cattle. At this station the bluffs draw 
close and high on each side, with the river 
and a narrow strip of meadow land on the 
right. After passing around the point and 
through numerous cuts for two miles, the 
canyon widens into a valley for several 
miles, then closes in, and the train passes 
around another rocky point into another 
valley, and stops at 

Golconda— a station 11.4 miles from 
Iron Point. This is a small station with a 
few go >d buildings. Large herds of cattle 
range near by in the surrounding valleys, 
and on the bluffs. Rich mines of gold 
and silver are located both to the north 
and south: one, the Golconda mine and 
mill, only three miles distant to the south. 
Close to the west of the station, under the 
edge of the bluff on the right, are located 
some hot springs. Here some of the set- 
tlers— rs at Springville, Utah— use the hot 
water for their advantage — one for milling 
the other for stimulating the soil. 

Continuing our journey, we pass over a 
broad sage brush plain, with wide mead- 
ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to 



Tule — an unimportant station. Pass- 
ing on down the valley we skirt the hills 
on our left, drawing still closer, in some 
places the spurs reaching to the track. On 
our left is an opening in the hills, from 
whence a canyon opens out near the road- 
side. It is about five miles long, contain- 
ing living springs. Here were discovered 
the first mines in this part of Nevada. In 
the spring of 1830, Mr. Barbeau, who was 
herding stock for Coperning, disc >ve ed 
the silver ore, and from this beginning, the 
prospecting was carried on with vigor, 
which resulted in locating many very val- 
uable bodies of ore. 

From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of 
the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. 

Winnemucca — is the commence- 
ment of the Truckee Division. The station 
was named after a chief of the Piute In- 
dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- 
tion 4,331 feet. Distance from Omaha 
1,451 miles; from San Francisco 463 
miles. 

Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- 
boldt county, and is composed of what is 
known as the old and new towns, which, 
together, contain about 800 inhabitants. 
The old town is situated on the low land 
directly fronting the station, about 300 
yards distant. Though so near, it is hid 
from sight until y^u approach the bank 
and look over. The town contains about 
150 buildings of all sorts, among which are 
a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- 
ing works, flouring mill, and a good hotel, 
the Central Pacific. 

The buildings with few exceptions, are 
of wood, new, and like most of the railroad 
towns, more useful than ornamental. The 
company have located here the usual 
division work and repair shops, including 
a lG-stall round-house. They are built of 
wood in the most substantial manner, as 
are all the shops along the road. 

There is considerable mining going on 
around and near Winnemucca, and quite a 
number of mills and furnaces are in opera- 
tion, all of which are said to be doing well. 
In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of 
silver-bearing ore have been located which 
promise a fair return for working. 

Stages leave here daily for Camp Mc- 
Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15; Paradise, 40 
miles, fare $5; Silver C ty, Idaho, 200 
miles, fare $40 ; Boi^e City, 255 miles, fare 
$40. Fast freight trains run from this 
station to all the above towns, and to the 
mining camps in the adjoining country. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



155 



TIIMIIE TABLE. 



TEUOKEE DIVISION. 

WINNEMUCCA TO TRUCKEE. 



Frank Free, Division Superintendent. 



WEST 


FROM OMAHA. 


SACRAMENTO TIME. 


EAST FROM CALIF 


ORNIA. 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and freight. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 

from 
Omaha 


STATIONS. 


1 

Elevati'n 

...4315.. 
....4331.. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 

10:40 am 
10:16 
9:53 
9:35 
8:45* 
8:15 
7:50 
7:17 
6:55 
6:40 
6:10 
5:50 
5:32 
5:03 
4:47 
4:30 
4:10 
3:50 
3:12 
2:30 
1:50 
1:45 
1:25 
1:10 
12:48 
152 :42 
12:25 
12:15 am 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight 


6 :00 am 
6 :45 


3 :35 p m 

3:58 

4:22 

4:38 

5:05* 

5:55 

6:21 

6:50 

7.13 

7:32 

8:05 

8:30 

8:48 

9:18 

9:33 

9:40 
10:15 
10:35 
11:15 
11:40 

12:50 a m 
12:55 

1:23 

1:40 

2:02 

2:10 

2:30 

2:40 


..1451.... 
..1461... 


Lv. . . 4 WINNEMUCCA Av 


5 :45 p m 

5 -00 


7 -25 


..1471.... 
H78. .. 




. .4322 


4 15 


7 :55 


tMill Creek 


.. ^327 


3 35 


8 -45 


1491.. 


t Humboldt 


....4228.. 
4233 


2 38 


9 :45 


..1502 . . 
1513 


tKye Patch 


1 -40 


10 -28 




4256 


12:30 pm 
1 1 -20 


11 20 


..1524.. . 




3977. 


12 :()i p m 
12 :45 


..1533.. 
..1540.... 




... 3917.. 
...3925.. 
... 3893.. 
....4199.. 
.. 4070.. 


10 • 37 




1 > -00 


1 :50 


.1552 ... 


White Plains 


9 00 


2 :40 


..1559.... 




8 30 


3 :15 


..1567.... 




8 00 


4 :10 


..1577.... 




....4017.. 

....4155.. 

. . . 4077 . . 


7 10 


5:20 


..1584.... 


Two Mile Station 


6 -45 


6:15 


..1586.... 




G 30 


6:45 


..1593.... 


Salvia 


...4130.. 


5 :?5 


7 :20 


. . 1601 .... 


Clark's 


....4263.. 
...4403.. 


4 -55 


8:10 


..1613.... 


Vista 


4 :05 


9 :U0 


..1622 .. 
..1631... 
..1632.... 




. . . 4507 . . 


3 :35 


9;55 


tVerdi 


...4927.. 
....5010.. 


2::>5 


10 :55 


..1639 ... 
..1641.... 


Mystic 


... 5216.. 
....5340.. 


1 :40 


10 :30 

11 :40 am 


.1647. .. 
1649... 


tBoca 


....5533.. 

...5610.. 

....57 0.. 

....F845.. 


1 :lo 
1 :oo 


12 :P5 


..1652.... 






12 :20 


.165'>. .. 


Ar JTRFCKEE Lv 


12 :30 a m 



t Day Telegraph. $ Day and Night Telegraph * Meals. 

The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. 



The Silver State, a weekly newspaper, 
is published here. Winnernucca is the 
great distributing point for a number of 
mining districts to the north and fcouth, and 
does an extensive freighting business. 
Many herds of cattle and sheep range tlie 
adjacent country, and large numbers are 
brought here for shipment to California. 

Mud Lake — is about 50 miles west of 
this station across the Humboldt, which 
here turns to the south, and is one of those 
peculiar lakes found in the great basin of 
Neva la. The lake receives the waters of 
Quinn's River and several smaller tribu- 
taries during the wet season. It has no 
outlet, unless its connection Math Pyramid 
and Winnernucca lakes could be so desig- 
nated. # It is about 50 miles loner by 20 
wide, in high water'; in summer it dwin- 
dles down to a marshy tract of land and a 



large stagnant pool. At the head of the 
lake is Black Rock, a noted landmark, in 
this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky 
headland, rising about 1,800 feet above the 
lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several 
miles. It is an isolated peak in this desert 
waste, keeping solitary guard amid the 
surrounding desolation. 

Pyramid Lake — is about 20 miles south 
of Mud Lake, which receives the waters of 
Truckee River. It is about 30 miles long 
by 20 wide during the wet seasons. The 
quality of the water is superior to that of 
Mud Lake, though the water of all these 
lakes is more or less brackish. 

Winnemucca Lake — a few miles east 
of Pyramid Lake, is another stagnant 
pond, about 15 miles long by ten wide. This 
lake is connected with Pyramid Lake by a 
small stream, and that in turn with Mud 



156 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Lake, but only daring high water, when 
the streams flowing into them cause them 
to spread far over the low, sandy waste 
around them. 

Returning to Winnemucca, we resume 
our journey. The road bears away to the 
southward, skirting the low hills which 
extend from the Winnemucca Mountain 
toward Humboldt Lake. The . general 
aspect of the country, is sage and alkali on 
the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on 
the bluffs. 

Rose Creek. — comes next, 8.88 miles, 
and 10.2 more, 

Raspberry Creek— Both the last 
named are unimportant stations where pas- 
senger trains seldom stop. They are each 
named after creeks near the stations, but 
why one should be Rose Creek and the 
other Raspberry Creek, we never could 
learn. We saw no indication of roses or 
raspberries at either creek. But they do 
have queer names for things in this 
country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a 
'• narrow gauge mule," we are prepared to 
hear sage-brush called roses, aiid grease- 
wood raspberries. 

Hill City — is 7.49 miles from Rasp- 
berry, and has some good buildings, among 
which is a fine hotel, close to the track on 
the right — and large freight warehouses; 
also cattle pens and shutes for shipping 
cattle, great numbers of which roam over 
the bottoms and adjacent bluffs. Stages 
leave this station on arrival of the cars for 
Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver 
mining town, 18 miles distant to the south- 
ward. 

Humboldt— 11.7 miles from Mill 
City, is a regulnr eating station where 
trains for the West stop 30 minutes for 
supper, and th^se for the East the same 
time for breakfast. The meals are the best 
on f he road. 

Here will be found the clearest, coldest 
mountain spring water along the road, and 
viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain 
in front of the station, one quite forgets the 
look of desolation observable on every 
side, and ihat this station is on the edge of 
the great Nevada Desert, 

It is worth the while of any tourist who 
wishes to examine the wonders of nature 
to stop here and remain for a few days at 
least — for one day will not .suffice — although 
to the careless passer-by the country ap- 
pears devoid of interest. Those who wish 
to delve into nature's mysteries can here rind 
pleasant and profitable employment. The 



whole sum of man's existence does not con- 
sist in mines, mills, merchandise and 
money. There are other ways of employ- 
ing the mind besides bending its energies 
to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still 
anotuer God, mightier than Mammon, wor- 
shiped by the few. Among the works of 
His hands — these barren plains, brown 
hills and curious lakes — the seeker after 
knowledge can find ample opportunities to 
gratify his taste. The singular formation 
of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone 
age, the fossil remains and marine evi- 
dences of past submersion, and, above all 
else, the grand and unsolved problem by 
which the waters that are continually pour- 
ing into this great basin are prevented from 
overflowing the low land around them, are 
objects worthy of the close attention and 
investigation of the scholar and philoso- 
pher. From this station, the noted points 
of the country are easy of access. 

Here one can observe the effects of irri- 
gation on this sandy, sage-brush country. 
The garden at the station produces vege- 
tables, corn and fruit trees luxuriantly, and 
yet but a short time has elapsed since it 
was covered with a rank growth of sage- 
brush. 

About seven miles to the northeast may 
be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the 
Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- 
tinues to hold its icy sway the whole year 
round. Two and one-half miles southeast 
are the Humbold^ mines — five in number — 
rich in gold and silver. The discovery of 
a borax mine near the station has been re- 
cently reported. Five miles to the north- 
west are the Lanson Meadow .-, on which 
are cut immense quantities of as good 
grass as can be found in the country. 
Thirty miles north are the new sulphur 
mines, where that suspicious mineral has 
been found in an almost pure sfate, and so 
hard that it requires to be blasted before it 
can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- 
ties sufficient to enable those operating the 
mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a 
week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- 
boldt, about one mile distant, on the right 
near the road, is another sulphur mine — 
but nothing has been done with it. 

Rye Patch— U 11.23 miles from Hum- 
boldt, named for a species of wild rye that 
grows luxuriantly on the moist ground 
near the station. 

To the left of the road, against the hill- 
side, is another hot spring, over whose sur- 
face a cloud of vapor is generally floating. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



15^ 



The medicinal qualities of the water are 
highly spoken of by those who never tried 
them, but we could learn of no reliable 
analysis of its properties. To the right of 
the track is located a 10-stamp quartz mill, 
the ores for which come from the moun- 
tains on the left. The Rye Patch and El- 
dorado mining Districts are to the left, 
from five to fifteen miles distant, for which 
most of the supplies are hauled from this 
station. 

Oreana — is reached after passing over 
a rough, uneven country for 10. 1 2 miles. 
To the southeastward are located a num- 
ber of mining districts, in which are lo- 
cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- 
ing works. 

Leaving the station to the west, the long 
gray line of the desert is seen cheerless 
and desolate. We draw near the river 
again and catch occasional glimpses of 
narrow, green meadows, with here and 
there a farm-house by the river-side; 
pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill — 
on the Humboldt River — to the right, which 
has been dammed near by to afford water 
power. Five miles from the station we 
cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, 
which here winds away on our left until it 
reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The 
current and volume of the river has been 
materially reduced since we left it at the 
head of the Big Bend. 

IiOvelocks— 11.86 miles from Ore- 
ana, derives its name from an old meadow 
ranche which is situated near, upon which, 
during the summer, large quantities of hay 
are cut and baled for market. Some at- 
tempt has been made at farming near by, 
but little of the country is adapted to the 
purpose. Cattle and sheep raising is the 
principal occupation of the people — but 
few herds will be seen, hereafter on our 
route. Reliable authority places the num- 
ber of head of stock now along the Hum- 
boldt River and adjacent valleys — 1878— 
cattle, 353,000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. 
During the year there were shipped from 
the same section to Chicago 20 car-loads of 
cattle, and 486 car-loads to San Francisco. 

Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills 
and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands 
along the bottom get narrower, and 
finally fade from sight altogether, and we 
find ourselves fairly out on the 

Great Nevada Desert — This desert 
occupies the largest . portion of the Ne- 
vada Basin. In this section, to the north- 
ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Hum- 



boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, 
which receive the waters of several large 
rivers and numerous small creeks. As we 
ha e before stated, they form a portion of 
that vast desert belt which constitutes the 
central area of the Nevada Basin. The 
desert consists of barren plains destitute of 
wood or water, and low, broken hills, 
which afford but little wood, water or 
grass. It is a part of that belt which can 
be traced through the whole length of tie 
State, from Oregon to Arizona, and far 
into the interior of that Territory. Tue 
Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country 
east of Walker's Lake, are part of this 
great division which extends southward, 
continued by those desolate plains, to the 
east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- 
nate Buel party suffered so terribly in their 
attempt to reach the Colorado River. 
Throughout this vast extent of territory 
the same characteristics are found — evi- 
dences of recent volcanic action — alkaline 
flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandy 
wastes abounding in all portions of this 
great belt. 

Although this desert is generally spoken 
of as a sandy waste, sand does not predom- 
inate. Sand hills and flats occur at inter- 
vals, but the main ted of the desert is lava 
and clay combined — one as destitute of the 
power of creating or supporting vegetable 
life as the other. The action of the 
elements has covered these clay and lava 
deposits with a coarse dust, resembling 
sand, which is blown about and deposited 
in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. 
W r here more of sand than clay is found, 
the sage-brush occasionally appears t > have 
obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely 
tries to retain it. 

Granite Point— a flag station, is 
8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, 
an occasional glimpse of Humboldt Lake, 
which lies to the left of the road, can be 
obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- 
ther, at 

Brown's — This station is situated 
about midway of the northern shore, 
directly opposite 

Humboldt Lake — This body of water is 
about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in 
reality a widening of the Humboldt River, 
which after coursing through 350 miles of 
country, empties its waters into this basin. 
Through this basin the water flows to the 
plains beyond by an outlet at the lower end 
of the lake, uniting with the waters of the 
sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten 



158 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



miles distant. During the wet season, 
when the swollen rivers have overflowed 
the low lands around the lakes and united 
them, they form a very respectable sheet of 
water, about eighty miles or more in length, 
with a large river emptying its waters into 
each end ; and for this vast volume of water 
there is no visible outlet. 

Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a 
dam has been erected, which has raised 
the water about six feet, completely oblit- 
erating the old emigrant road which passed 
close to the southern shore. The necessi- 
ties of mining have at length utilized the 
waters of the lake, and now they are em- 
ployed in turning the machinery of a 
quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake 
is an island — along narrow strip of land — 
which extends up the lake and near the 
northern shore. Before the dam was put 
in the outlet, this island was part of the 
main land. There are several varieties of 
fish in the lake, and an abundance of 
water-fowl during portions of the year. 

Leaving Brown's, and passing along the 
shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- 
vening sand ridge hides the lake from our 
sight, and about eight miles west we ob- 
tain a fine view of the Sink of Carson Lake, 
which is a small body of water lying a few 
miles north of the main Carson Lake, and 
connected with that and the Humboldt dur- 
ing the wet season. 

Carson Lake lies directly south of 
Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles 
long, with a width of ten miles. In the 
winter its waters cover considerable more 
area, the Sink and lake being one 

The Carson River empties into the south- 
ern end of the lake, discharging a large 
volume of water. What becomes of the 
vast body of water continually pouring 
into these lakes, is the problem yet un- 
solved. Some claim the existence of un- 
derground channels, and terrible stories 
are told of unfortunate people who have 
been drawn down and disappeared for- 
ever. These stories must be taken with 
much allowance. If underground chan- 
nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which 
are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water 
are united during the winter floods? 
And how is it, that when the waters have 
subsided from these alkaline plains, that no 
openings for these channels are visible ? 
The only rational theory for the escape of 
the water is by evaporation. Examine 
each little stream bed that you meet with ; 
you find no water there in the summer, 



nor sink ho'es, yet in the winter their beds 
are full until they reach the main river. 
The sun is so powerful on, these lava 
plains in summer that the water evapo- 
rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling 
shadows of the hills. By acutal experi- 
ment it has been demonstrated that at 
Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- 
tion of water is equal, in the summer, to 
six inches every 24 hours. In the winter, 
when the atmosphere is more humid, evap- 
oration is less, consequently the waters 
spread over a larger area. 

Carson River, which gives its name to 
the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake 
Tahoe and opposite the head waters of the 
American River. From its source to its 
mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- 
er's course. From its source its course is 
about due north for about 75 miles, when it 
turns to the east, and follows that direction 
until it enters the lake. 

Under the general name of Carson Val- 
ley, the land bordering the river has long 
been celebrated as being one of the best 
farming sections in the State. The thriv- 
ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are 
situated in the valley, though that portion 
around Carson City is frequently designa- 
ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, 
from Carson to the foothills, is very fertile, 
and yields handsome crops of vegetables, 
though irrigation is necessary to insure a 
good yield. In some portions the small 
grains are successfully cultivated, and on 
the low lands an abundant crop of grass is 
produced. The valley is thickly settled, 
the arable land being mostly occupied. 
South and west of the head waters of Car- 
son River, the head waters of Walker's 
River find their source. The west fork of 
Walker's River rises within a few miles of 
the eastern branches of the Carson. The 
east fork of Walker's River runs due north 
until joined by the west fork, when the 
course of the river is east for about forty 
miles, when it turns to the south, following 
that direction untilit reaches Walker's 
Lake, about forty miles south of the sink 
of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- 
ous course about i40 miles. In the val- 
leys, which are found at intervals along the 
rivers, occasional spots of arable land are 
found, but as an agricultural country the 
valley of Walker's River is not a success. 

Walker Lake is about 45 miles long 
by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in 
the basin, it has no outlet. The water is 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



159 



brackish and strongly impregnated with 
alkali. The general characteristics of the 
other lakes in the great basin belong to this 
also ; the description of one embracing all 
points belonging to the others. 

White Plains— is 12.17 miles 
west of Brown's. This station is the low- 
est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad 
east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As 
indicated by the name, the plains imme- 
diately around the station are white with 
alkali, solid beds of which slope away to 
the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. 
No vegetation meets the eye when gazing 
on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. 
The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly 
down on this barren scene, burning and 
withering, as though they would crush out 
any attempt which nature might make to 
introduce vegetable life. 

The water to fill the big tank at the sta- 
tion is pumped from the " Sink " by means 
of a stationary engine, which is situated 
about midway between the station and the 
Sink. 

Mirage — is 7.96 miles from White 
Plains. This station is named for that cu- 
rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) 
which is often witnessed on the desert. 
In early days the toil-worn emigrant, w hen 
urging his weary team across the cheerless 
desert, has often had his heart lightened 
by the sight of clear, running streams, 
waving trees and broad, green meadows, 
which appeared to be but a little distance 
away. Often has the unwary traveler 
turned aside from his true course and fol- 
lowed the vision for weary miles, only to 
learn that he had followed a phantom, a 
will-o'-the-wisp. 

What causes these optical delusions no 
one can tell, at least we never heard of a 
satisfactory reason being given for the ap- 
pearance of the phenomenon. We have 
seen the green fields, the leafy trees and 
the running waters; we have seen them all 
near by, as bright and beautiful as though 
they really existed, where they appeared 
too, in the midst of desolation, and we have 
seen them vanish at our approach. Who 
knows how many luckless travelers have 
followed these visions, until, overcome with 
thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the 
burning sands, far from the cooling shade 
of the trees they might never reach ; far 
from the music of running waters, which 
they might hear no more. 

Onward we go, reclining on the soft 
cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty 



miles an hour; rolling over the alkali 
and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a 
thought to those who, in early clays, suf- 
fered so fearfully while crossing these 
plains, and, perchance, left their bones 
to bleach and whiten upon these ban-en 
sands. 

Hot Springs — is 6.57 miles west of 
Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can 
be seen more of these bubbling, spurting 
curiosities — these escape pipes, or safety 
valves for the discharge of the super-abun- 
dant steam inside the globe, which are 
scattered over the great basin. Extensive 
salt works are located at this station, from 
which a car-load or more of salt is shipped 
daily. The salt springs are about four 
miles "west of the station. 

The Saxon American Borax Co. have 
erected works here which cost about $200,- 
000. They are situated a half-mile south of 
the station, in plain view. 

Passing on, we find no change to note, 
unles-s it be that the beds of alkali are oc- 
casiona.ly intermixed with brown patches 
of lava and sand. A few bunches of 
stunted sage-brush occasionally brt ak the 
monotony of the scene. It is worthy of 
notice that this hardy shrub is never found 
growing singly and alone. The reason for 
it is evident. No single shrub could ever 
maintain an existence here. It must have 
help ; consequently we find it in clumps for 
mutual aid and protection. 

I>esert — is 11.7 miles from Hot 
Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the 
next 5.97 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti- 
tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 82 
feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at 

Wads worth— This town is situated 
on the east bank of the Truckee River and 
the western border of the desert, and con- 
tains some good buildings, and a popula- 
tion of ab'Hit 450. 

The division workshops are located 
here, and consist of a round-house of 20 
stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. 
Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land 
has bet n fenced in, set out with trees, a 
fountain erected, and a sward formed,' by 
sowing grass-seed and irrigating it — mak- 
ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable 
freight is shipped from this station to min- 
ing camps to the south. 

Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles 
south of the town. They attract little at- 
tention, that mineral not being much 
sought after. Ten miles south are the 
Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- 



160 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 




SNOW SHEDS — SEE PAGE 172 



The Piute In- 
dians have two 
reservations; 
one is situated 
eighteen miles 
northward, and 
another to the 
southeast, at 
Walker Lake. 
Leaving 
Wadsworth,we 
cross the Truc- 
kee River, on 
a Howe truss 
bridge, our 
course being to 
the southwest. 
This stream 
rises in Lakes 
Taboe and 
Donner, which 
lie at the east- 
ern base of the 
Sierras, about 
80 miles dis- 
tant. From its 
source in Lake 
fahoe, the 
branch runs 
Qorth tor about 
twelve miles, 
wh en — near 
rruckeeCity — 
t unites with 
Little Truckee, 
,he outlet of 
Donner Lake, 
and turns to 
he east,follow- 
iog that course 
until it reaches 
his place, 
where it turns 
north about 25 
miles, branch- 
es, and one por- 
tion enters Pyr- 
amid and the 
other Winne- 
mucca Lake. 

The level 
lands border- 
ing the Truckee 



ing quartz lodes. Some of the mines 
there are considered very rich. Ninety 
miles south, at Columbus, are located the 
famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be 
very rich. 



consist mostly of gravelly upland covered 
with sage-brush. It is claimed that they 
might be rendered productive by irriga- 
tion, and the experiment has been tried in 
a small way, but with no nattering result. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 



161 



The upper portions of the valley, especially 
that which borders on hake Tahoe, is ex- 
cellent farming lnncl. Between these two 
points— the meadows and the lake — but 
little meadow land is found, the val- 
ley being reduced to narrow strips of 
low land in the canyons and narrows, and 
broad, gravelly uplands in the more open 
country. 

Salvia — a small side-track, comes next 
after Wadsworth, 7.^5 miles distant. Soon 
we pass around a lava bluff, called Red 
Rock, on the right, and 7.55 miles brings 
us to 

Clark's — in a round valley, sur- 
rounded by fenced fields, where good 
crops of vegetables are raised for market 
in mining towns to the south. From 
Clark's, it is 11.90 miles to 

Vista — a small station situated on the 
northern edge of what is known as the 
Truckee Meadows. In early days these 
meadows were a noted rendezvous of the 
emigrants, who camped here for days to 
recruit their teams after crossing the desert. 
They have p.n extent of about twelve miles 
in length by about two miles in wudth, 
inclosing considerable excellent grass 
land. Vegetables and small grains are 
successfully cultivated on portions of the 
moist land. 

Reno — is 7.64 miles from Vista; is the 
county seat of Washo county, and contains 
a population of about 1,500. It was named 
in honor of General Reno, who was killed at 
the battle of South Mountain. This city has 
rapidly improved within the last six years, 
anc 1 jow contains five church edifices, two 
banks, a fine court-house, a number of good 
busmess blocks, a steam fire department, 
several small factories, two daily news- 
papers, the Journal and the Gazette, and is 
the distributing point for an enormous 
freighting business to the north, as well as 
the south. Some good agricultural land 
surrounds the town, as well as many herds 
of cattle and sheep. The State Agricul- 
tural grounds are located here, in which is 
a very fine race track. The Lake House is 
the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for 
Susanville, 90 miles. See Annex, No. 57. 

The English works are near the town, 
affording excellent means by which to test 
the ores discovered in the neighborhood. 

The greatest mining region in the world 
is reached via Reno. Virginia City, located 
over the mountain to the southeast, from 
this station is only 21 miles distant, by the 
old wagon road, but by rail it is 52 miles. 



Before the completion of this road, Vir- 
ginia City was reached by stage, over a 
fearfully steep zig-zag mountain road, but 
the difference between ike "old and the 
new" is more than made up in the com- 
fort of the passage if not in time. 

At the time when these stages were run- 
ning to convey passengers, a fast " Pony 
Express " was run for the purpose of carry- 
ing Wells, Fargo & Co.'s letter bags. This 
pony express w T as once a great institution. 
Approaching Reno, the traveler could have 
observed that the mail express bags were 
thrown from the cars before the train had 
ceased its motion. By watching the pro- 
ceedings still further he w-ould see that 
they are transferred to the backs of stout 
horses, already bestrode by light, wiry 
riders. In a moment all is ready, and 
away they dash under w r hip and spur to 
the next station, when, changing horses, 
they are off again. Three relays of horses 
w r ei e used, and some " good time " was often 
made by these riders. 

Let us take a run up and see this 
Huge Bonanza Country. 

Virginia & Truckee Railroad. 

Principal office, Carson, Nevada. 

D. 0. Mills Preset San Faancisco. 

H. M. Yerington. . ..Gen' I Sup't. ...Carson, Nev. 
E.Niles Gen'lT.A.... " " 

This load was commenced at Carson 
City, March 19th, 1869, completed to Vir- 
ginia City in the following November, and 
to Reno in 1871. The length is 52.2 miles ; 
the grade in places is 115 feet to the mile, 
and there are six tunnels, of the aggregate 
length of 3,000 feet ; the shortest curve is 
19 degrees — between Gold Hill and Vir- 
ginia City. ' 

The train for Virginia stands on the oppo- 
site side of the station building from the 
C. P. Let us step on board. From Reno, 
our course is east of south, crossing a por- 
tion of the Truckee Meadows, a few well- 
cultivated fields and greater quantities of 
sage and grease-wood. The first station on 
the bills is 3.5 miles from Reno, called 

Anderson's — but we do not stop. Cross- 
ing the river, we pass the first of a series 
of V-shaped flumes, which are constructed 
to float down wood and lumber from the 
mountains. The one we are now passing 
is said to be 15 miles in length. 

Huffaker's — comes next — after 3.6 
miles, wdiere another flume is passed, both 
of which are on the right, and land their 



162 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



freight — wood — close to the track of our 
road. Along here we find some broad 
meadows on the left, but sage on the right. 
Passing over 1.9 miles from the last station 
we arrive at 

Brown's — Here is the ecd of another 
flume, and 2.-4 miles further, and after 
curving around to the right, up a broad 
valley, arrive at the 

Steamboat Springs — which are eleven 
miles south of Reno. There are several of 
these curious springs within a short dis- 
tance of the road. They are near each 
other, all having a common source, though 
different outlets, apparently. They are sit- 
uated to the right of the road, just before 
reaching the station, a short disiance above 
the track; are strongly impregnated with 
sulphur, and arc very hot, though the tem- 
perature varies in different springs. 

They are said to possess excellent me- 
dicinal qualities. At times they are quite 
active, emitting jets of water and clouds 
of steam, which at a distance resemble the 
blowing off of steam from a large -boiler. 
The ground around them is soft and treach- 
erous in places, as though it had been 
thrown up by the springs, and had not yet 
cooled or hardened. Itls related that once 
upon a time, when a party of emigrants, 
who were toiling across the plains, arrived 
near these springs about camping time, 
they sent a man ahead — a Dutchman — to 
look out for a suitable place for camping — 
one where water and grass could be ob- 
tained. In his search the Dutchman dis- 
covered these springs, which happened to 
be quiet at the time, and knelt down to 
take a drink of the clear, nice-looking 
water. Just at that instant a jet of spray 
was thrown out and over the astonished 
Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he 
dashed away to the train, shouting at the 
top of his voice, "Drive on! drive on! 
h— 1 is not five miles from this place!" 
Gues3 the innocent fellow firmly believed 
what he littered. 

The traveler will find the springs suffi- 
ciently interesting to repay him for the 
trouble of pausing here awhile and taking 
a look around. At the station will be 
iound a comfortable hotel, ample bath ac- 
commodations, and about a half-dozen resi- 
dences. 

Leaving the springs, our course is south, 
up a narrow valley, in which is some good 
farming land, with high bluffs on each 
side; cross and re-cross Steamboat Creek, 
curve to the right through a narrow cauyon 



where there are many evidences of placer 
mining ; twist and climb, between high pro- 
jecting cliffs, and suddenly emerge into a 
great valley, and stop at 

Washoe City— Ah ! here is a child of 
the past. In its palmy days Washoe was 
as lively a city, or camp, as could be found 
in the whole mining region. Where thou- 
sands of people once toiled, there are now 
only a few dozen, and most of those are 
engaged in other pursuits than mining. 
On the right is another flume for floating 
wood from the mountains on the west- 
ward. 

The valley near this place is from half to 
a mile in width, surrounded by high moun- 
tains, the highest peak of which is Mt.Rose, 
at the south end of the valley, over 8,000 feet 
in height. The mountains on the east are 
bare, with some gage and bunch-grass, 
while those on the west are covered, the 
greater part, with pine and spruce timber. 

Leaving Washoe, we pass, on the left, 
the Old OphirMill, a stone building — now 
in ruins — which once gave employment to 
about 150 men, besides a $30,000 a year 
superintendent. 

Franktown — is 4.7 miles from Washoe,a 
growing station in the midst of W^ashoe 
valley; population about 150. A "V" flume 
comes down on the right. There are some 
good farming lands along here, but the 
greater portion is only adapted for grazing 
purposes. 

Washoe Lake, on the left, is about four 
miles long and one mile wide. On the 
east side of the lake is Bower's Hotel, a 
great resort in the summer for pic-nic par- 
ties from the cities to the southward. From 
Franktown it is 2.6 miles to 

Mjll Station— near the site ofano'd 
mill, where another "V" flume comes down 
from the mountains on the right, making 
six since leaving Reno. 

Proceeding south, the valley narrows 
and is soon crowded out completely, and 
we rise up onto the southern rim ; and 
then, a look back will take in the whole 
valley and lake from end to end, and a 
beautiful view it is. At this narrow gorge 
the railroad track crosses the great 

Water Syphon, through which the 
water is conducted from the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, on the west, across this narrow 
gorge, for supplying Virginia City, Gold 
Hill and Silver City. It is an achievement 
which finds no parallel in the history of 
hydraulic engineering. The total length 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



163 



of the pipe used is but little less thau seven 
miles. 

At the point where the water is taken 
from Dall's Creek, up in the Sierras, it is 
brought in an 18-inch flume, four miles 
long, to the point of a spur on the w^est side 
of Washoe Valley, the height of which is 
2,100 feet above the railroad track. At the 
point where the water in the flume reaches 
the spur it is received in an iron pipe, 
which, after running along the crest, de- 
scending, crossing and ascending twelve 
steep canyons on its rcute, finally descends 
into this gorge, crosses it from the west, 
and ascends the cliff on the east side to a 
height of 1,540 feet, where it is taken by 
another flume and conducted to a reservoir 
on the Divide between Virginia City and 
Gold Hill. The pipe has an orifice twelve 
inches in diameter, and where the pressure 
is the greatest, is five-sixteenths of an inch 
in thickness, riveted with five-eighth inch 
rivets in double rows. Where the pres- 



sure lessens, the thickness of the material 
gradually decreases. 

The amount of rolled iron used in con- 
structing the pipe was 1,150,000 lbs. One 
million rivets and 52,000 lbs. of lead were 
used on the pipe. Before being used, each 
length of pipe— 26 feet long, each— was 
heated to a temperature of 380 decrees, and 
submerged in a bath of asphaltum and 
coal tar, to prevent corroding. At the bot- 
tom of each depression there is a blow-off 
cock, for removing any sediment that 
might accumulate, and at each elevation is 
an air-cock to let out the air when the 
water is first introduced into the pipes. 
Where the water pipe runs under the rail- 
road track, it is surrounded with a massive 
iron sleeve, twelve feet long, to protect it 
from the jar of passing trains. This pipe 
is capable of furnishing 2,000,000 gallons 
of water a day. The whole cost of con- 
struction was $750,000. A movement is now 
on foot to lay another and much larger 




THE WAY WE ONCE WENT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 



164 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



pipe near the present one. 

From Mill station it is 2.5 miles to 

Lake View — situated just south of 
the southern iim of the Washoe Valley, in 
the gorge above alluded to. Soon after 
leaving "the station, we pass into a tunnel, 
through a projecting cliff, which shoots 
out from the right, and comes out on the 
side of the mountain overlooking the 
beautiful Eagle or Carson Valley. Away 
in the distance, four miles away, can be 
seen Carson City, a little further, Carson 
River, and bej^ond both, the mountains, 
just beyond which is Walker's River, and 
then Walker's Lake. 

Winding and descending around the 
side of the mountain, through numerous 
rocky cuts, a distance of 4.6 miles from 
Lake View, we arrive at 

Carson City — the capital of the State 
of Nevada. It is situated in Eagle Valley, 
on the Carson River, at the foot of the 
eastern base of the Sierras, and contains 
about 4,000 population ; is 31.1 miles south 
from Reno, and 21.1 miles southwest 
from Virginia City. It- is the oldest town 
in the State, and has a good many fine 
private and public buildings. The town is 
tastefully decorated with shade trees, and has 
an abundance of good water. The United 
States Branch Mint of Nevada is located 
here. The capital is located in the center 
of a Plaza, and is surrounded by an iron 
fence. It is two story and basement, made 
of cut stone. 

Carson is a busy city, has some good 
blocks of buildings, several good hotels, 
chief of which is the Ormsby; four 
churches, five schools, two daily newspa- 
pers — the Morning Appeal and the Nevada 
Tribune. Here are located the machine 
shops of the Railroad Company, and several 
manufactories. Carbon City is in the center 
of the best farming land on Carson River, 
and the best in this part of the State, and is 
the distributing point for a vast amount of 
freight, destined for the southern mines. 

To the south of the city, comes down the 
large "V" flume from the Sierras, via. 
Clear Creek Canyon, owned by the 
Railroad Company through which thou- 
sands of cords of wood and millions 
of feet of lumber are landed at Carson 
weekly. Four and six horse coaches 
leave Carson daily, carrying passengers, 
mails and express. From Carson to 
Monitor, the distance is 4'J miles, and to 
Silver Mountain, in Alpine county, Cal., 
54 miles; to Bishop's Creek, 192 miles; 



Benton, 150 miles in Mono county, Cal., 
Sweetwater, 73 miles, Aurora, 105 miles, 
Bodie, 119 miles, Mariette, 145 miles, Bell- 
ville, 155 miles, Candelaria, 165 miles, 
Columbus, 173 miles and Silver Peak, 228 
miles in Esmeralda county, Nevada, — To 
Independence, is 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 252 
miles, and Cerro Gordo, 274 miles, in Inyo 
county, Cal. The fare to these places 
averages about 15 cents per mile. A stage 
also runs to Genoa and Markleville, and in 
the summer to Lake Tahoe, at Glenbrook, 
15 miles. This line connects at Tahoe City, 
with stages for Truckee, the Summit, and 
also with the new line over the mountains 
to the Calavaras Grove. Leaving Carson, 
our course is to the northeast, across a 
broad bottom. To the right, about two 
miles distant, beside a round butte, is a 
large building — a huge boarding-house — 
conducted by the State. The guests are 
numerous, and are not inmates of their own 
free will, but by due course of law, and 
when the law is satisfied, it is hoped they 
will leave this States Prison and become 
better citizens. 

Near the prison are the Carson Warm 
Springs, where are ample accommodations 
for bathing. 

Lookout — is the first station from Car- 
son, 1.1 miles distant, but our cars lookout 
not to stop, and 1.3 miles further, brings 

Empire — This is a town of about 1,000 
population, situated on the north bank of 
Carson River. Here are located the big 
Spanish or Mexican mill, on the right, then 
the Morgan or Yellow Jacket mill, and 
then the Empire. Passing on, down the 
bank of the Carson, we curve around the 
point of a bluff, pass the Brunswick mill on 
the left, near the station of the same name, 
1.3 miles from Empire. Soon the valley is 
crowded out, and we enter a canyon, with 
the river to our right, just below, as we are 
now climbing up a heavy grade. To our 
right, but far below, is the Vivian, and the 
Merrimac mills, nearly one mile from the 
Brunswick. Continuing on up, still up- 
ward, we come to the Santiago mill, 1.8 
miles further. This mill is situated about 
500 feet below the road, on the right, and 
almost under it. Shutes run from the track 
above to the mill below, for dumping ore 
or coal. The road is now far up on the side 
of the mountain, much of the way blasted 
out from the solid rock, and very crooked. 
The canyon on the Carson River is far 
below, on the right, and soon will be lost 
to view. 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



165 



Eureka — is ha'f a mile from Santiago, 
with a narrow-gauge track on our right, 
away down the river. Near the track on 
the right, is the dump-shute of the Eureka 
mill. Ascending rapidly and tortuously 
for two miles, we come to 

Mound House — Here all supplies for 
Dayton and Sutroville, are re-shipped on 
wagons; distance to Dayton, four miles, 
to Sutroville, five miles. Stages run daily. 
A large amount of freight is shipped from 
this point for Columbus, and the Monte 
Christo country. Since the completion of 
the steam-tug on Walker Lake, teams that 
pass over Holmes' toll-road are conveyed a 
distance of 35 miles, saving 45 miles of 
teaming around the north end of the lake, 
through deep sand. This tug is 60 feet 
long, with a breadth of 18 feet, and takes 
on a fair or six horse team, but not a 
"prairie schooner " of twelve or sixteen 
animals. However, a larger boat is being 
constructed to accommodate this trade. 

Sutro Tunnel — This tunnel is one of 
the most important enterprises ever inau- 
gurated in mining operations in this or any 
other country. The object sought is ven- 
tilation, drainage, and a cheap means of 
working the mines, or bringing the ores to 
the surface. The tunnel commences in 
the valley of the Carson River ; is 14 feet 
wide at the bottom, 13 feet at the top, and 
IX) feet high. 

The main tunnel is 20,018 feet in length, 
and the cross tunnels will be about 12,000 
feet more. The tunnel strikes the Corn- 
stock ledge at a depth 2,000 feet below the 
point of the croppmgs. The work of 
extending the cross tunnels is being 
pushed ahead vigorously, and over 480 
feet had been completed at the commence- 
ment of the year 1879. On the completion 
of the main tunnel, a misunderstanding- 
arose between the Tunnel Co. and the mine 
owners, the result of which— Quien sabe? 

Near Mound House is a gypsum mine 
of good quality, large amounts of which 
are shipped to San Francisco. A track 
branches off near the station, to the right, 
for Silver City, situated about two miles to 
the eastward, in a narrow canyon, in plain 
view, where are located a number of quartz 
mills. 

Silver — is the next station, 3.3 miles 
from Mound House. Here ore is dumped 
down a shute to the right, and taken to the 
mills below The best view of Silver City 
— a place of 1,000 population, all of whom 
are engaged in mining, having one news- 



paper, the Reporter— can now be had on 
the right; curving around to the left, we 
come to the American Flat tunnel, 900 feet 
long. Jt was at this tunnel where a thrill- 
ing incident occurred, October 17, 1872. 
(See Annex No. 3+.) The fire alluded to 
in the annex cost the Railroad Company 
$500,000. It took two months to replace 
the timbering, during which time all 
passengers, freight, mails and express, had 
to be transferred by teams. 

Passing through the tunnel, Mt. David, 
son looms up direcly ahead, 7,827 feet 
above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill — 
far away, in a narrow canyon. The train 
runs around the side of the mountain, de- 
scribing a great curve to the north and 
eastward, passing numerous mills, among 
which are the Rock Island, down on the 
right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- 
man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, 
and many other mills, both on the right 
and left, tnd finally crossover a huge mill, 
and one of the principal streets of the city 
of Gold Hill, which extends to the left up 
a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in 
the city of 

Gold Hill — This is a flourishing min- 
ing city, 19 miles from Carson ajjd two 
from Virginia ; population, 6,000. It con- 
sists mostly of one main street, built along 
a steep ravine. The city has some good 
buildings, among which are one good 
hotel, the Vesey House ; and one daily news- 
paper, the Gold Hill News. The city is sur- 
rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and 
kinds, and all is noise and business night 
and day. The street between Gold Hill 
and Virginia is so generally built up that 
one cannot tell where the dividing line is 
betw r een them. An omnibus line plies be- 
tween the two cities, running every fifteen 
minutes. 

Passing on from Gold Hill two miles, 
around sharp curves, through three short 
tunnels in quick succession, with mills to 
the right, mills to the left, and mills all 
around us, we arrive at 

Virginia City — This city is on the 
southeastern slope of Mt. Davidson, at an 
elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain 
rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built 
along the side ( f the mountain — one main 
street, with numerous steep cross-streets — 
and contains some very fine business blocks. 
Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 
miles by rail, from Reno, and contains a 
population of about 16,000, a great propor- 
tion of whom are engaged in mining op- 



166 



CROFTJTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



erations immediately under the city, from 
1,500 to 2,200 feet. 

The Enterprise and the Chronicle — both 
daily and weekly papers — are published 
here. 

The religious and educational interests 
are well represented by churches and 
schools. 

There are a number of hotels in the city, 
at which the traveler will find good ac- 
commodations. The International, is 
the principal one. 

At both Virginia and Gold Hill, are 
located great numbers of smelting furnaces, 
reduction works and stamp mills, all thun- 
dering away, night and day. The fires 
from these works, at night, light up with a 
lurid glare all surrounding objects. There 
are no two cities in the world more cos- 
mopolitan; here, meet and jostle, the peo- 
ple from every land and clime; the rich 
and the poor; the miser and the spend- 
thrift; the morose and jolly. Self have 
predominates. " Rich to-day, poor to- 
morrow," is the rule. All gamble in min- 
ing stocks, from the boot-black cr servant 
girl to the Rev. Mr. Whitetie, or the Bo- 
nanza-Nabob. The whole people are alive 
to each movement of the " stock indica- 
tors," as much as the " Snowballs " were 
in Baltimore twenty-five years ago on the 
lottery and policy business; 4-11-41 was 
their go I ; the tick of the "indicator" is 
the god of this people. The saying that 
" It is not birth, nor wealth, nor State — its 
git up and git that makes men great," has 
been thoroughly demonstrated by many ot 
the citizens ot Virginia City and Gold Hill. 

Early History — The first gold mines 
were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby, and 
some others, who commenced mining in 
Gold Canyon (Gold Hill), and continued 
working the place with indifferent success 
until 1859. The first quartz claim was lo- 
cated by James Finney, better known as 
" Old Virginia," on the 22d of February, 
1858, in the Virginia mining district and 
on the "Virginia Croppings." The old 
prospector gave his name to the city, crop- 
pings and district. In June, 1859, rich de- 
posits of silver ore were discovered by 
Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, 
on what is now the ground of the Ophir 
Mining Company. They were engaged in 
gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein 
of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in 
excavating a place wherein to catch a sup- 
ply of water for their rockers. The dis- 
covery was made on ground claimed by 



Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was 
employed to purchase the claims of Kirby 
and those holding with him, hence, Corn- 
stock's name was given to the lode. 

The Comstock Lode — is about four 
miles in length, the out-croppings extend- 
ing in a broad belt along the mountain 
side. It extends under Virginia City and 
Gold Hill ; the ground on which these 
cities are built being all " honey-combed " 
or undermined ; in fact, the whole moun- 
tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- 
erns from which the ore has been taken. 
The vein is broken and irregular at inter- 
vals along its length as far as traced, owing 
to the formation of the mountain. It is 
also very irregular in thickness. In some 
places the fissure ranges from 30 to as high 
as 200 feet in width, while at other points 
the walls come close together. The great- 
est variation in width occurs at a depth of 
from 400 to 600 feet from the surface. The 
principal silver ores of this lode are steph- 
anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and 
very rich galena. Pyrargyrite, or ruby 
silver, horn silver and polybasite, are 
found in small quantities, together with 
iron and copper pyrites, zinc-blende, car- 
bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native 
gold. 

The number of mills in and around Gold 
Hill and Virginia, and at other points, 
which work on ore from this lode, is be- 
tween 75 and 80. They are scattered around 
through several counties, including Storey 
(where the lode lies), Lyon, Washoe and 
Ormsby, from 30 to 40 in number being in 
Storey county. The product of the Com- 
stock lode has been beyond that of any 
silver vein of which we have any^ record ; 
furnishing the largest portion of bullion 
produced on the Pacific Slope. 

From the Mining Directory of the 
American Mining Agency of Chicago, we 
learn that the gross yield of all the mines 
of the precious metals in the State of 
Nevada, for the six years commencing 
with 1871, have been $176,734,150. The 
yield of the "Bonanza Mines " for the first 
nine months of 1877, were $2 ;,434,000, of 
which $17,280,0C0 were paid out in divi- 
dends. This would make the yield for 1877, 
at the rate of $31,247,000. The yield for 
1878 was much smaller. 

But let us return to Reno before we get 
to watching the " indicator: " and start 
once more for the West. 

Leaving Reno, our course is south of 
west, up the Truckee River. The hills are 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



167 



loftier, and were — at the time the railroad 
was built — covered with dense pine for- 
ests ; now, only stumps and rocks appear, 
with very little undergrowth. As we enter 
the Truckee Canyon, we seem to have en- 
tered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invig- 
orating atmosphere. The aroma of the 
spruce and pine, which comes with the 
mountain breeze, is pleasant when com- 
pared with that of the alkali plains. 

Verdi — is the first station from Reno, 
10.48 miles. Passing on, up, 1.23 miles 
brings us to a new side-track station called 

Essex — which we pass ; continuing 
along the river, with its foaming current 
now on our left, first on one side, then on 
the other, runs this beautiful stream until 
we lose sight of it altogether. The road 
crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss 
bridges, running as straight as the course 
of the mountains will permit. The moun- 
tains tower up on either hand, in placts 
sloping and covered in places with timber 
from base to summit, in others precipitous, 
and covered with masses of black, broken 
rock. 'Tis a rough country, the canyon of 
the Truckee, possessing many grand and 
imposing features. 

On the road up we pass a new station 
called 

Mystic — 5.11 miles from Essex, and 
four miles further 

Bronco — another side-track. Occa- 
sional strips of meadow land are seen 
close to the l iver's edge, but too small and 
rocky to be of any use, only as grazing 
land. Now we cross the dividing line, and 
shout 




as we enter California, a few miles east of 
Boca — a small station 5.7 miles from 
Bronco. The lumber interest is well rep- 
resented here, huge piles of ties, boards 
and timber lining the roadside. The river 
seems to be the means of transportation for 
the saw logs, immense numbers of them 
being scattered up and down the stream, 



with here and there a party of lumbermen 
working them down to the mills. A great 
quantity of ice is cut and housed here, 
and an extensive beer brewery erected. 

The Truckee River, from Reno to its 
mountain source, is a very rapid stream, 
and affords dam-sites and mill-sites innu- 
merable; yet, it is related that some years 
ago, before the completion of the Pacific 
railroad, a certain Indian agent, who is 
now an Ex-U. S. Senator, charged up to 
the Government an " item " of $40,000, as 
being the purchase-money for a mill-site 
on the Truckee, near a dam site. 

Some hungry aspirant for official posi- 
tion, who had a hank* ring after the "loaves 
and fishes," exposed the "item," and a 
committee was sent out from Washington 
to investigate the matter. This committee, 
went out by " Overland Stage," had a good 
time, traversed the country in every direc- 
tion, explored the river thoroughly, from 
the Desert to Lake Tahoe, and reported 
that they could find numberless dam-sites 
by mill-sites, but could not find a mill by 
a dam-site. 

From Boca it is 1.57 miles to 

Prosser Creek— Here is a long "V" 
flume for the accommodation of the lum- 
bermen, and where large quantities of ice 
is cut and stored for market. Another run 
of 4.1 miles and the train passes 

Proctors — and 2.76 miles more and 
our train comes to the end of the Truckee 
division, at Truckee City. 

Truckee City — This place is situ- 
ated on the north bank of the Truckee 
River, in the midst of what was once a 
heavily timbered region, much of which 
has been cut off. The principal business 
of the place is lumbering, though an ex- 
tensive freighting business is carried on 
with other points in the mountains. One 
can hardly get around the town for the 
piles of lumber, ties and wood, which 
cover Ihe ground in every direction. Some 
fine stores and a good hotel are the only 
buildings which can lay claim to size and 
finish corresponding with the growth and 
business of the place. The town is com- 
posed of wooden buildings, mostly on the 
north side of the railroad. 

The very sharp roofs of the buildings 
point out the fact that the snow falls deep 
and moist here, sufficiently so to crush in 
the roofs — unless they are very sharp and 
strong. The town contains about 2,000 in- 
habitants, nearly all of whom are directly 



168 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



TIME T-A ^ZBILIEl, 

SACRAMENTO DIVISION. 

SACRAMENTO TO TRUCKEE. 



F. A. Fillmore, Division Superintendent. 








WEST FROM OMAHA. 


SACRAMENTO TIME. 1 


EAST FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and Ireight. 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCl's 


Distance 

from 
Omaha. 


STATIONS. 


Elevation 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCrs 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and Ireight. 


1:30 am 
8:15 

3:00 


3:05 am 

4:35 

4:00 

4:22 

4:34 

4:45 

5:13 

5:30 

5:53 

6:10 

6:17 

6:25 

6:44 

7:00* 

7:37 

7:48 

8:00 

8:25 

8:43 

9:04 

9:15 

9:32 

9:43 
10:00 
10:12 
10:25 a m 


...1655.. 
...1662.. 
...1671.. 


Lv JTRUCKEE Ar 

Strong's Canyon 


... 5845 
....6780.. 
7017.. 


12:00 m 

ll:3f. 

11:05 

10:34 

10:10 

9:55 

9:18 

8:50 

8:25 

8:00 

7:50 

7:40 

7:12 

6:30* 

6:07 

5:51 

5:35 

5:10 

4:50 

4:27 

4:00 

3:46 

3:35 

3:20 

3:09 

3:00 pm 


11:00 pm 
10:20 
9 35 


3:40 


...1675.. 




... 6519.. 
....6191.. 


9 00 


4:10 


...1679.. 
...1683... 


. Tamarack 


8:35 


4:50 




....5939.. 


8:10 


5:42 
6:35 


...1691.. 
...1697.. 


^Emigrant Gap 

JBlue Canyon 


....5229.. 
....4677.. 
....4154.. 

;;;'34i>3:; 

....3206.. 


7:10 
6:15 


7:10 

7:40 


...1702.. 
....1706.. 


. .Sandy Run 

tAlta 


5:05 
4:20 


7:55 


...1708.. 


Dutch Flat 


4:00 


8:10 


...1710.. 


tGold Run 


3-40 


8:50 
9:25 
10:00 
10:30 


...1617.. 
...1721.. 
. . . 1725. . 
...1728.. 


C. H. Mil's 

tColfax 

N. E. Mills 


.. .2691.. 

...2421. 

...2280.. 
... 2000.. 


2:55 
2:10 
1:40 
1:15 


10:55 


...1732.. 




....1759.. 
....1362.. 


12'55 


12:10 pm 


...1739.. 




12:10 pm 
11*30 


12:40 


...1744.. 




.... 969.. 


1:13 


...1750.. 


Pino 


.... 403.. 


10'57 


1:55 


...1752.. 
...1757.. 




.... 248.. 


10-40 


2:20 




.... 163. 
.... 154. 


9-32 


2:40 


...1760.. 




9 00 


3:30 


...1767.. 




.... 55.. 


8 25 


3:55 
4:15 pm 


...1771.. 
...1775.. 


A. M. Bridge 

Ar.. ^SACRAMENTO- ...Lv 


.... 52.. 
.... 3C . . 


8:05 
7.45 am 



tDay Telegraph. % Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. 

The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. 



or indirectly connected with the lumber 
trade. 

The Republican, a weekly paper, repre- 
sents the interests of the Truckeeites. 

The educational interests have been pro- 
vided for, Nevada county, in which Truckee 
City is situated, being justly celebrated for 
her public schools. 

There are three hotels in Truckee, the 
principal one being the Truckee House. 
At certain seasons of the year the cars stop 
before this house thirty minutes, affording 
time for the traveler to obtain a good meal. 
The Truckee House is the headquarters 
of the tourists who stop over to visit ob- 
jects of interest in this locality. This sta- 
tion is the end of the Truckee, and the 
commencement of the Sacramento divis- 
ions. 

The company have a 24-stall round- 



house and the usual machine and repair 
shops of a division located here. 

A line of stages leaves Truckee, daily, 
for Donner Lake, two miles ; Lake Tohoe, 
twelve miles; Sierraville, 30 miles. A 
good wagon-road connects Sierra City with 
Truckee via the Henness Pass and Donner 
Lake. 

Freight is re-shipped here for Donner 
and Tahoe Lakes, Sierraville, and the va- 
rious towns in Sierra Valley. There are 
some wholesale and retail houses in 
Truckee, which do a large business. 

Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, as it is called on 
some of the official maps, is located twelve 
mi es south of Truckee. Tahoe is an In- 
dian name signifying "big water," and is 
pronounced by the Indians, "Tah-oo," 
while the "pale faces " pronounce it "Ta- 
hoe." From Truckee a splendid road af- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



169 




FIRST WELLS, FARGO & CO.'s EXPRESS OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 



fords one of the best and most pleasant 
drives to be found in the State. The road 
follows the river bank, under the shade of 
waving pines, or across green meadows 
until it reaches Tahoe Citv, at the foot of 
the lake. Here are excellent accommoda- 
tions for travelers — a good hotel, boats, and 
a w r ell-stocked stable. 

According to the survey of the State line, 
Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five 
counties. The line between California and 
Nevada runs north and south through the 
lake, until it reaches a certain point therein, 
when it changes to a course 17 degs. east 
of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado 
and Placer, in California, and Washoe, 
Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share 
in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the 
line was surveyed through the lake it is 
1,700 feet deep. 



There are three steamboats on the lake' 
but only one, the "Stanford," takes ex- 
cursionists. The trip on this steamer is 
very fi"e, but for our personal use, not the 
way we like to travel for sight-seeing, at 
this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. 
Our choice is a good saddle animal, or a 
good team of horses, an agreeable com- 
panion, and start around the western shore. 
Six miles from Tahoe, over a beautiful 
road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of 
mountains covered with a splendid forest 
of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, 
for all uses, found on the Pacific coast. 
There are fine streams running into the 
lake on each side of the point. We now 
arrive at Emerald Bay, a beautiful, placid 
inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide 
itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not 
over 400 yards wide at its mouth, 



but 



170 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



widens to two miles inland, forming one 
of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the 
world. It is owned by Ben Holiday. At 
the south end of Tahoe, near the site of the 
Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake 
Valley Creek enters the lake, having wound 
among the hills for many miles since it 
left the springs and snows which feed it. 
The valley of Lake Creek is one of the 
loveliest to be found among the Sierras. 
The whole distance, from the mountain 
slope to the lake, is one continual series of 
verdant meadows, dotted with milk 
ranches, where the choicest butter and 
cheese are manufactured. The next ob- 
ject of interest met witli is a relic of the 
palmy days of staging : 

Friday Station, an old stage station, 
established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- 
ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles 
further on we come to the Gienbrook House 
a favorite resort for tourists. From Glen- 
brook House there is a fine road to Carson 
City, between which ply regular stages. 
This is a lovely place, and a business place 
too, as a half-dozen saw mills are located 
here, which turn out a million and a half 
feet of lumb r weekly. 

Four miles further we come to 

The Cave, a cavern in the hillside fully 
100 feet above and overhanging the lake. 

Following around to the north end of the 
lake, and but a short distance away, are the 
celebrated Hot Springs, lying just across 
the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a 
splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally 
devoid of miseral taste. The next object 
which attracts our attention is Cornelian 
Bay, a beautiful indenture in the coast, 
with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there 
has been scarcely a point from which the 
descent to the water's edge is not smooth 
and easy. 

Passing on around to the westside we re- 
turn to Tahoe City. Around the lake the 
land is generally level for some distance 
back, and covered with pine, fir and bal- 
sam limber, embracing at least 300 sections 
of as fine timbered land as the State 
affords. It is easy of access and handy to 
market, the logs being rafted down the 
lake to the Truckee, and thence down to 
any point on the railroad above Reno. So 
much ior the general appearance of Lake 
Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one 
must go there and spend a short time. 
When once there, sailing on the beautiful 
lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly 
bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that 



make the pole sway and bend in the hand 
like a willow wand, few will have a desire 
to hurry away. If one tires of the line and 
of strolling along the beach, or sailing over 
the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun 
will be rewarded by the sight of quail, 
grouse, deer and possibly a bear. 

We have now circled the lake and can 
judge of its dimensions, which are 22 
miles in length and ten in width. 

[While on a recent visit to San Fran- 
cisco, we learned, on good authority, that 
a movement was on foot, urj. ed by several 
capitalists in that city, to build a large 
hotel at Tallac Point during the year, from 
which a stage line will convey passengers 
over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley 
and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big 
Trees ; distance 65 miles ; fare, about $20.] 
This would certainly be a lovely trip, 
passing as it does, through the grandest 
of the High Sierra range, and to the noted 
Blue Lake, so long talked about as the 
great reservoir from which the City of San 
Francisco is to be supplied with water in 
the future. For scenery, variety of game, 
trout, etc., this route will be found very 
attractive. 
We will now return to Truckee. 
Donner Lake— a lovely little lakelet, 
the "Gem of the Sierras," lies two and a 
half miles northwest of Truckee. It is 
about three and a half miles long, with an 
average width of one mile, and at the deep- 
est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This 
and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to 
be the craters of old volcanoes, the moun- 
tains around them presenting unmistak- 
able evidences of volcanic formation. The 
waters of both lakes are cold and clear as 
crystal, the bottom showing every pebble 
with great distinctness under water 50 feet 
deep. It is surrounded on three sid< s by 
towering mountains, covered with a heavy 
growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- 
mense size. Were it not for the occasional 
rattling of the cars, away up the mountain 
side, as they toil upward to the" Summit," 
and the few cabins scattered here and there 
along the shore, one would fancy that he 
was in one of nature's secret retreats, where 
man had never ventured before. A small 
stream, which tumbles down the mountain 
side, winds its way through the dense 
wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the 
upper end or head of the lake, which rests 
against the foot of "Summit" Mountain. 
From the Lake House, situated as it is on 
a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



171 



a very fine view of the railroad can be ob- 
tained. Within sight are four tunnels and 
several miles of snow-sheds, while behind 
and seemingly overhanging the road, the 
mountains — bald, bleak, bare, massive 
piles of granite — tower far above their 
precipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance 
to the ravages of time. A fine road has 
been graded along the right-hand shore, 
from the station, forming a splendid drive. 
The " old emigrant road " skirts the foot of 
the lake (where the Donner party per- 
ished, see Annex No. 83), and following up 
the stage road, climbs the " Summit " just 
beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it 
struck the Divide at Summit Valley ; from 
thence it followed the valley down for 
several miles, then struck across the crest- 
spur, and followed the Divide down from 
Emigrant Gap. 

The business of lumbering is carried on 
quite extensively at the lower end of the 
lake. The logs are slid down the moun- 
tain sides in " shoots," or troughs made 
of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted 
down to the mill. On the west side of the 
lake the timber has not been disturbed, but 
sweeps down from the railroad to the 
water's edge in one dense unbroken forest. 
The lower end of the lake is bordered with 
green meadows, covering an extent of 
several hundred acres of fine grazing land. 

From the foot of the lake issues a 
beautiful creek, which, after uniting with 
Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee 
River 

Coldstream — is a clear, cold mountain 
stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises 
in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite 
Summit Valley. Some excellent grazing 
land borders the creek after it leaves the 
mountain gorge. 

Fishing and Hunting — In Donner and 
Tahoe lakes is found the silver trout, 
which attains the weight of 20 pounds. 
There are many varieties of fish in these 
lakes,but this is most prized and most sought 
after by the angler. It is rare sport to 
bring to the water's edge one of these 
sleek-hided, sharp-biting fellows — to handle 
him delicately and daintily until he is safely 
landed ; and then, when fried, baked, or 
broiled brown, the employment of the jaws 
to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels — it's 
not bad jawing. The water near the lake 
shore is fairly alive with white fish, dace, 
rock-fish, and several other varieties — the 
trout keeping in deeper water. There is 
no more favorite resort for the angler and 



hunter than these lakes and the surround- 
ing mountains, where quail, grouse, deer, 
and bear abound. 

These lakes were once a favorite resort 
for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," 
who annually visit this locality during the 
summer vacation. The Railroad Company 
generally passed them over the route, and 
they had a happy week — romping, scram- 
bling and wandering over the mountains, 
and along the lake shore, giving new life 
and animation to the scene. The gray old 
hills and mighty forests re-echo with their 
merry laughter, as they stroll around the 
lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- 
haps, essaying their skill as anglers, to 
the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants 
of the lake. 

Sierra Valley — lies about 30 miles 
from Truckee City, among the Sierras. It 
is about 40 miles long, with a width of 
from five to seven miles. It is fertile, 
thickly settled, and taken in connection 
with some other mountain valleys, might 
be termed the Orange county of California 
— from the quantity and quality of butter 
and cheese manufactured there. In the 
mountain valleys and on the table-lands 
the best butter and cheese found in the 
State are manufactured— the low valleys 
being too warm, and the grasses and water 
not so good as found here. In Sierra, and 
many other mountain valleys, good crops 
of grain and vegetables are grown in 
favorable seasons, but the surest and most 
profitable business is dairying. The 
flourishing town of Royalton is situated in 
this valley. 

Honey Lake — an almost circular sheet 
of water, about ten miles in diameter, lies 
about 50 miles north of Truckee City. 
Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at 
the north, while Lone Valley Creek 
empties its waters into the southern por- 
tion of the lake. Some fine meadow and 
grazing land is found in the valleys 
bordering these streams, which has been 
occupied by settlers, and converted into 
flourishing farms. 

Susanviile, the principal town in the 
valley, is situated north of the lake. It is 
connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, 
and Oroville, California. 

We now take leave of Truckee City and 
its surroundings, and prepare to cross the 
"Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- 
tant. With two locomotives leading, we 
cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on 
a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make 



172 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



directly across the broken land bordering 
the lake meadows, for the foot of the 
Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, 
through long snow sheds, with the spark- 
ling Coldstream on our right, winding 
through the grassey valley and among 
waving pines, for 6.52 miles, we pass 

Strong's Canyon— -and bend, 
around the southern end of the valley, 
which borders Donner Lake, then crossing 
Coldstream, commence the ascent of the 
mountains. Soon after passing this side- 
track, our train enters a snow-shed, 
which — with a number of tunnels, — is 
continuous for twenty-eight mile^, with but 
a few " peek-holes," through which to get 
a glimpse at the beautiful scenery along 
this part of the route — yet, we shall de- 
scribe it, all the s: me. As the train skirts 
the eastern base, rising higher and higher, 
Donner Lake is far below, looking like a 
lake of silver set in the shadows of green 
forests and brown mountains. Up still, 
the long, black Jine of the road bending 
around and seemingly stealing away in the 
same direction in which we are moving, 
though far below us, points out the wind- 
ing course we have followed. 

Up, still up, higher and higher toils the 
train, through the long line of snow-sheds 
leading to the first tunnel, while the loco- 
motives are snorting an angry defiance as 
they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. 

Summit — is 14.31 miles west of 
Truckee, the highest point on ihe Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, passed over by the 
Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above 
the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 
1,669 miles ; from San Francisco, 245 miles. 
This is not the highest 1 nd of the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, by any means, for 
bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite 
peaks around us, to an altitude of over 
10,000 feet. Piles of granite— their weather- 
stained and moss-clad sides glistening in 
the morning sun— rise between us and the 
" western shore," hiding from our sight the 
vast expanse of plain that we know lies be 
tween us and the golden shores of the 
Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy 
fir and spruce, line the mountain gorges, 
where rest the everlasting snows that have 
rested in the deep shady gu'ches, near the 
summit of these towering old mountains — 
who can tell how long? They have lain, 
evidently, s ; nce Adam was a very small 
boy, or the tree sprouted from which our 
apple-loving ancestor, Eve, plucked that 
bedeviled fruit. 



We are on the dividing ridges which 
separate the head-waters of several moun- 
tain rivers, which, by different and tor- 
tuous courses, find at last the same common 
receptacle for their snow-fed waters -the 
Sacramento River. Close to our right, 
far down in that fir-clad gorge, the waters 
of the South Yuba leap and dance along, 
amid dense and gloomy forests, and over 
almost countless rapids, ca^ca es and 
waterfalls. This stream heads against and 
far up the Summit, one branch crossing 
the road at the next station, Cascade. After 
passing Cisco, the head waters of Bear 
River can be seen lying between the Divide 
and the Yuba, which winds away be- 
yond, out of sight, behind ano 1 her mountain 
ridge. Farther on still, and we find the 
American River on our left. These streams 
reach the same ending the Sacramento River 
but are far apart, where they mingle with 
that stream. There is no grander scenery 
in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep 
gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling water- 
falls and crystal lakes, than abound within 
an easy distance of this place. The tourist 
can find scenes of the deepest interest and 
grandest beauty, the scholar and philoso- 
pher, objects of rare value for sc entific in- 
vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can 
find an almost unlimited field for his 
amusement; the former in the gorges of 
the mountains, where the timid deer and 
fierce grizzly bear make their homes ; the 
latter among the mountain lakes and 
streams, where the speckle I trout leaps in 
its joyous freedom, while around all, is the 
music of snow-led mountain torrent and 
mountain breeze, and over all is the clear 
blue sky of a sunny clime, tempered and 
softened by the shadows of the everlasting 
hills. 

Tunnels and Snow-Sheds — From the 
time theroad enters the crests of the " Sum- 
mit," it passes through a succession of tun- 
nels and snow-sheds so closely connected 
that the traveler can hardly tell when tie 
cars enter or leave a tunnel. The Summit 
tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 
feet long, the others ranging from 100 to 
870 feet in length. 

The snow-sheds are solid structures, built 
of sawed and round timber, completely 
roofing in the road for many miles (see 
illustration, pages 73-89-160). When theroad 
was completed, there were 28 miles of shed 
built, at an actual cost of $10,000 per mile. 
With the additions since made, the line 
reaches about 45 miles, which includes the 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



173 



whole length of the deep snow line on the 
dividing ridge. When we consider that 
along the summit the snow falls from 16 to 
20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can 
imagine the necessity and importance of 
these structures. By this means the track 
is as clear from snow in the winter as are 
the valleys. The mighty avalanches which 
sweep down the mountain sides in spring, 
bearing everything before them, pass over 
the sloping roofs of the sheds and plunge 
into the chasms below, while beneath the 
rushing mass the cars glide smoothly 
along, the passengers hardly knowing but 
that they are in the midst of an enormous 
tunnel. 

Where the road lies clear on the divide 
or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, 
like those of any building calculated to 
withstand a great weight of snow. But 
where the road is built against the side of 
these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can 
have but one slope, and that must reach the 
mountain side, to enable the " snow-slides" 
to cross the road without doing harm to 
that or the passing trains. (See illustration, 
pages, 89 and 160.) 

Fires sometimes cause damage to sheds 
and road, but seldom any delay to the 
trains, as the company have materials of all 
kinds on hand for any emergency, and, 
with their swarm of men, can replace 
everything almost as quick as it is de- 
stroyed; but, to further protect the snow- 
sheds and bridges from fire, and the more 
effectually to extinguish them, the Railroad 
Company have stationed the locomotive 
Grey Eagle at the Summit (with steam al- 
ways up and ready to answer a summons), 
with a force pump of large capacity, sup- 
plied with steam from the engine. At- 
tached to the locomotive are eight water 
cars, the tanks on which are connected 
with each other and with the tender of the 
engine, so that the supply of water will al- 
ways be sufficient to check any ordinary fire. 

The Summit House, located at the sta- 
tion, is one of the best hotels on the road 
and can furnish tourists with every accom- 
modation required, while spending a few 
days or weeks exploring tnis very inter- 
esting region. 

Passengers from the West, desiring to 
visit Lake Tahoe, can take a stage at the 
Summit House, which will afford them a 
fine view of Donner Lake, while rolling 
down the mountain and around to the 
north and east side of- it, en route to Tahoe. 
Returning, those who choose, can take the 



cars for the East, at Truckee, without re- 
turning to the Summit. Fare for the 
"round trip," $6.00. 

Leaving the Summit, we pass on through 
the long shed, and tunnels alternately, 
around the base of towering peaks, anon 
over high, bare ridges, then through grand 
old forests, for 5.77 miles to 

Cascade — Here we cross one of the 
branches of the Yuba, which goes leaping 
clown the rocks in a shower of spray dur- 
ing the summer, but in the winter the 
chasm shows naught but a bed of snow 
and ice. 

Summit valley, one of the loftiest of the 
Sierra valleys, lies to the west, a broad, 
grassy meadow, dotted with trees and ly- 
ing between two lofty mountains, about 
two miles long by one mile wide. It is 
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, 
affording pasturage for large bands of cat- 
t e, dui ing the summer. It is all occupied 
by dairymen and stock raisers, at whose 
comfortable dwellings the tourist will find 
a hearty welcome. It is a delightful sum- 
mer retreat ; a favorite resort for those who 
prefer the mountains, with their cool 
breezes and pure water. The valley is 
watered by many springs and snow-fed 
rivulets, whose waters flow to the Ameri- 
can River. 

This valley is becoming noted in a busi- 
ness point of view, as well as being a place 
of summer resort. It is becoming cele- 
brated as a meat packing station, it having 
been demonstrated that pork and beef 
can be successfully cured here during any 
portion of the year. 

Soda Springs — are situated near the 
foot of Summit Valley, their waters unit- 
ing witii others, forming the head waters 
of the American River. The springs are 
very large and numerous, and the water is 
pronounced to be the best medicinal water 
in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool 
and sparkling, possessing the taste of the 
best quality of manufactured soda water. 
The larger of the springs have been im- 
proved, and great quantities of the water 
are now bottled and shipped to all parts of 
the State. Near the Soda Springs are 
others, the waters of which are devoid of 
mineral or aciduous taste, and boiling hot. 

In the summer these springs are much re- 
sorted to by people from the "Bay." There 
is a comfortable hotel at the Springs which 
is reached from the Summit by stage, and 
sometimes at a side- track, called " Soda 



174 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Spring Station," midway between Sum- 
mit and Cascade stations. 

Tamerack — is the next station, 4.2 
miles from Cascade, and 3.51 miles from 

Cisco— At one time this was quite an 
important place, being the "terminus" 
during the time occupied in tunneling 
through the summit; then, it was a place 
of 500 inhabitants, now, a score or so make 
up the town. 

From this station we pass along rapidly 
and easily, without the help of the locomo- 
tive. To the right, occasional glimpses of 
the Bear and Yuba Rivers can. be seen 
far below us. 

Emigrant Gap— is 8.5 miles west 
of Cisco, at the place where the old emi- 
grant road crossed the Divide, and fol- 
lowed clown the ridges to the valley of the 
Sacramento. The emigrants passed over 
the u gap," we pass wider it, making a 
slight difference in elevation between the 
two roads, as well as a difference in the 
mode of traveling. We have seen the last 
of the old emigrant road that we have fol- 
lowed so far. No more will the weary emi- 
grant toil over the long and weary journey. 
Space is annihilated, and the tireless iron 
horse will henceforth haul an iron wagon 
over an iron road, landing the tourist and 
emigrant fresh and hearty, after a week's 
ride, from the far eastern shores of our 
country to the far western — from ocean to 
ocean. 

Passing on amid the grand old pines, 
leaving the summit peaks behind, we turn 
up Blue Canyon, the road-bed on the oppo- 
site bank apparency running parallel 
with the one we are traver-ing. Swinging 
around the head of the canyon, past saw- 
mills and lumber side-tracks, 5.2 miles, 
we reach 

Blue Canyon— a freight and lum- 
ber station, where immense quantities of 
lumber are shipped from mills in the vicin- 
ity. Before the railroad reached tnese 
mountains, the lumber interest of this sec- 
tion Was of little value, there being only a 
local demand, which hardly paid for build- 
ing mills and keeping teams. The mines 
were then the only market— the cost of 
freight to the valleys forbidding competi- 
tion with the Puget Sound lumber trade, 
or with mills situated so much nearer the 
agricultural districts. Now the lumber can 
be sent to the valleys, and sold as cheaply 
as any, in a market rarely overstocked ; for 
the one item of lumber forms one of the sta- 
ple market articles, ruling at more regular 



prices, and being in better demand than 
any other article of trade, on the coast, if 
we except wheat. 

Leaving Blue Canyon, we speed along 
around the hill-sides, past 

China Ranch — a side-track, about two 
miles west. The passenger should now 
watch the scenery on the left. 

{Shady Run — is 4 72 miles west of 
Blue Canyon, but passenger trains seldom 
stop. On the left, south side, can be seen 
one of the grandest gorges in the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, "The Great American 
Canyon." (See illustration, page 147). At 
this point the American River Is com- 
pressed between two walls, 2,000 feet high, 
and so nearly perpendicular that we can 
stand on the brink of the cliff and look 
directly down on the foaming waters be- 
low. The canyon is about two miles long, 
and so precipitous are its sides, which are 
washed by the torrent, that it has been 
found impossible to ascend the stream 
through the gorge, even on foot. This is a 
be lutiful view — one of nature's most mag- 
nificant panoramas. But we soon lose 
sight of it, as our train turns to the right, 
up a side canyon, 4.84 miles from Shady 
Run, and stops at 

Alta — Alta looks old and weather- 
beaten, and its half-dozen board houses, 
with sharp roofs, look as though there was 
little less than a century between the pres- 
ent and the time when they were ushered 
into existence — like its namesake in San 
Francisco, after which it was named. 

I> n toll Flat — is 1.87 miles from Alta ; 
old settlers call it German Level. The 
town of Dutch Flat is situated in a hollow, 
near by and to the right of the road, a por- 
tion of it beingj in ptain view. The town 
contains many good buildings, churches, 
schools, and hotels. The Farmer, a weekly 
newspaper, is a new institution at Dutch 
Flat. Population, about 2,000. One feature 
of this town is worth noting, and worthy 
of commendation — the beautiful gardens 
and fine orchards which ornament almost 
every house. In almost all of the moun- 
tain towns— in fact in all of the older min- 
ing towns — the scene is reproduced, while 
many of the valley towns are bare of vines, 
flowers or fruit trees ; the miner's cabin has 
its garden and fruit trees attached, if water 
can be had for irrigation, while half of the 
farm-houses have neither fruit trees, shrubs, 
flowers nor gardens around them. 

Stages leave this station daily for Little 
York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



175 



teams leave here for all the above named 
towns and mining camps in this vicinity. 

Little York — a mining town, three 
miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains 
about 500 inhabitants. 

You Bet — is six miles from Little York, 
also a mining town, about the same size. 

Red Dog — seven and a-half miles from 
You Bet, is still another small mining town. 

These towns are situated on what is 
called the Blue Lode, the best large placer 
mining dis:rictin the State. The traveler 
will see the evidences of the vast labor 
performed here, while standing on the 
platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Flat or 
Gold Run fctations. The Blue Lode ex- 
tends from below Gold Run, through the 
length of Nevada, on, into and through 
a portion of Sierra county. It is supposed 
to be the bed of some ancient river, which 
was much larger than any of the existing 
mountain s' reams. The course of this old 
river was nearly at right angles with that 
followed by the Yuba and other streams, 
which run across it. The channel is from 
one to five miles wide in places — at least 
the gravel hills, which are supposed to 
cover the bed, extend for that distance 
across the range. Many of these gravel 
hills are from 100 to 500 
feet high, covered with 
pine trees from two to 
six feet in diameter. 
Petrified trees, oak and 
pine, and other woods, 
such as manzanita, 
mountain maho g a n y 
and maple, are found 
in the bed of the river, 
showing that the same 
varieties of wood existed 
when this great change 
was wrought, as are 
now growing on the 
adjacent hill-sides. 

Hydraulic Mining— 
The traveler will ob 
serve by the road-side, 
mining ditches and 
flumes, carrying a large 
and rapid stream of 
water. These ditches 
extend for many miles, 
tapping the rivers near 
their sources — near the 
regions ot perpetual 
snow. By this means 
the water is conveyed 
over the tops of the 



hills, whence it is carried to any claim 
below it. The long, high and nar- 
row flume, called a " telegraph," car- 
ries the water from the ditch, as 
nearly level as possible, over the claim 
to be worked. To the " telegraph " is at- 
tached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, 
through which the water rushes with great 
velocity. When directed against a gravel 
bank, it cuts and tears it clown, washing 
the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing 
to those unacquainted with hydraulic min- 
ing. (See accompanying illustration.) The 
water carries rocks, dirt and sand through 
the tail race, and into the long flumes, 
where the riffles for collecting the gold are 
placed. Miles and miles of the flumes 
have been built, at an enormous expense, 
to save the gold carried away in the tail- 
ings. 

Around Little York and You Bet, the 
lode is mixed too much with cement to 
mine in this manner with profit, hence 
mills have been erected where the cement 
is worked in the same manner as quartz 
rock — crushed and then amalgamated. 

Gold Run — is 2. 13 miles beyond Dutch 
Flat, and is a small mining town, contain- 
ing about 200 inhabitants. Around it you 




HYDRAl'I.K 



176 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



can see, on every hand, the miner's work. 
Long flume beds, which carry off the 
washed gravel and retain the gold ; long 
and large ditches full of ice-cold water, 
which, directed by skillful hands, are fast 
tearing down the mountains and sending 
the washed debris to fill the river-beds in 
the plains below. There are a set of 
"pipes" busily playing against the 
hill-side, which often comes down in 
acres. All is life, energy and activity. 
We don't see many children peeping out 
of those cabins, for they are not so plentful 
in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. 
But we do see nearly all of the cabins sur- 
rounded with little gardens and orchards, 
which produce the finest of fruits. 

Descending the mountain rapidly, amid 
mining claims, by the side of large ditches, 
through the deep gravel cuts.and along 
the grassy hill-sides, until, on the left, a 
glimpse of the North Fork of the Ameri- 
can River can be had, foaming and dash- 
ing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 
feet beneath us. Farther on we see the 
North Fork of the North Fork, dashing 
down the steep mountain at right angles 
with the other, leaping from waterfall to 
waterfall, its sparkling current resembling 
an airy chain of danc- 
ing sunbeams, as it has- 
tens on to unite with 
the main stream. Now 
we lose sight of it, while 
it passes through one of 
those grand canyons on- 
ly to be met with in these 
mountains. 

C.H.Mills- a sta- 
tion where trains sel- 
dom stop, is 5.96 miles 
from Gold Run. The 
passenger should be on 
the lookout, and look to 
the left — south— as the 
scene changes with every 
revolution of the wheels. 
A few moments ago we 
left the canyon behind — 
now, behold, it breaks 
on our view again, and 
this time right under us, 
as it were, but much 
farther down. It seems 
as though we could jump 
from the platform into 
the river, so close are we 
to the brink of the preci- 
pice; steadily on goes 



the long train, while far below us the wa- 
ters dance along, the river looking like a 
winding thread of silver laid in the bottom 
of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This is 
Cape Horn, one of the grandest scenes on 
the American Continent, if not in the 
world. Timid ladies will draw back •with 
a shudder — one look into the awful chasm 
being sufficient to unsettle their nerves, 
and deprive them of the wish to linger 
near the grandest scene on the whole line 
of the trans-continental railroad. 

Now look farther down the river and 
behold that black speck spanning the sil- 
v r line. That is the turnpike bridge on 
the road to Iowa Hill, though it looks no 
larger than a foot plank. Now we turn 
sharp around to our right, where the 
towering masses of rock have been cut 
down, affording a road-bed, where a few 
years ago the savage could not make a 
foot trail. Far above us they rear their 
black crests, towering away, as it were, 
to the clouds, their long shadows falling 
far across the lovely little val'ey now ly- 
ing on our left, and a thousand feet below 
us still. We have lost sight of the river, 
and are following the mountain side, look- 
ing for a place to cross this valley and 




ROUNDING CAPE HORN 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 



177 




looking up at cape horn — See. next page. 



12 



178 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



reach the road-bed on the opposite side, 
which we can see runs parallel with us. 
Soon it is found, and turning to our left, 
we cross the valley — Rice's Ravine — on a 
trestle bridge 113 feet high and 878 feet 
long, under which can be seen the track of 
thenarrow gauge railroad, from Colfax 
to Nevada. Gradually the height grows 
less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 
feet, enough to admit of an embankment 
being raised to meet it, On, over the em- 
bankment, which cu ves around to the 
left, and now we are on the solid hill-side, 
and running along opposite the road by 
which we passed up the vail ©7. We now 
have our last and best look at the bold 
bluff. 

The best view of this noted place is ob- 
tained when going east, or from the river 
below. Viewed from the river, the pass- 
ing train looks like some huge monster 
winding around the bluff, bold point, 
puffing and blowing with its herculean 
labors, or screaming angry notes of de- 
fiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at 
the obstacles overcome (see page 177) 

"When the road was in course of con- 
struction, the groups of Chinese laborers 
on the bluffs looked almost like swarms of 
ants, when viewed from the river. Years 
ago, the cunning savage could find only 
a very roundabout trail by which to ascend 
the point, where now the genius and j 
energy of the pale-face has laid a broad 
and s-afe road, whereon the iron steed car- 
ries its living freight swiftly and safely on 
their w r ay to and from ocean to ocean. 

When the road-bed was constructed 
around this point, the men who broke the 
first standing ground were held by ropes 
until firm foot-holds could be excavated 
in the rocky side -5 of the precipitous bluffs. 
Colfax— is 4.5 miles from C. H. Mills, 
and about two miles beyond the high 
bridge mentioned. This is a regular eat- 
ing station, and an excellent table is set 
The company have a large depot here, this 
being the distributing point for freight 
bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a 
large scope of mining country. The town 
is named in honor of Schuyler Colfax, 
one of the warmest friends and earliest 
supporters of the road. 

Colfax ik a substantial railroad town. 
It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, is well 
watered, and has an air of general ihrift 
about it, which marks all the permanent 
towns along the road. The school and 
church accommodations are ample; the 



climate is invigora'ing and healthy, and 
the inhabitants a thrifty, driving, enter- 
prising people; the greater number, na- 
tives of the State of Illinois, who emi- 
grated to this country in early days — 
1849—50. 

Illinois Town — is a half-mile west, 
once a noted freighting point for the sur- 
rounding mines, now tiie only business is 
raising fruit, apples, peaches and pears. 

Iowa Hill — is a mining town, 12 miles 
south of Colfax. A good toll-road crosses 
the American River on the bridge which 
we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and 
follows up the mountain to the town, 
which contains about 250 inhabitants. 
Formerly stages ran daily to Iowa Hill 
and the mining camps to the southward, 
but for some reason, they now run only 
semi-occasionally. Private conveyance can 
always be secured at Colfax at reasonable 
charge. 

As our trip is for pleasure, and to see all 
that is worth seeing, we will need to take 
a trip to the old mining towns of Grass 
Valley and Nevada. 

Nevada County Xarrow Gauge 
Railroad. 

The General Offices are at Grass Valley. 

J. C. Coleman President. 

john IP. Kxddeb, GenH Superintendent. 

Geo. Yletcher Sec. 

This road is a three- foot narrow gauge ; 
commenced in January, 1875, and com- 
pleted May 22, 1876; length, 223^ miles. 
This is a very crooked road, has 15 trestle 
bridges, aggregating 5,176 feet, two truss 
bridges, each 165 feet long, and 97 and 85 
feet high, respectively; and two tunnels, 
aggregating 800 feet. As for the scenery — 
well, it is immense— the rapid and aston- 
ishing changes remind one of the kaleid- 
osope, and its wondrous changes. Here 
are to be seen every variety of mountain 
scenery, as though a choice morsel of each 
of the grand beauties of nature had slipped 
from the hand of the great Architect while 
distributing them, giving such a variety of 
magnificent views as are seldom, if ever, 
found in the same distance traveled. 

! .>'«l J .i.e route we shall pass through fear- 
ful chasms, and tortuous canyons; under 
and over loity bridges, through dense for- 
ests, beside bright green fie' as and tower- 
ing mountains; tall pines, aiivi diminutive 
manzanitas; huge smelting furnaces, and 
thundering quartz mills ; longwa^cr flumes 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



179 



and beautiful cascades; large rivers, 
and tiny sparkling creeks ; dark and 
gloomy gorges, and fruit-laden orchards; 
old placer diggings, new diggings, and 
immense quartz mines. But come along, 
and take a look. The train stands j ust on 
the south side of the depot at Colfax, and 
leaves on the arrival of the overland train. 

Passing along to the eastward, we gradu- 
ally descend the canyon with the track of 
the C. P. road away above us on (he left, 
and again to the right, where it curves 
around Cape Horn, a beautiful view of 
which is obtained. Following on up, we 
pass under the high bridge of the Central, 
one and a-half miles from Colfax, and 
reach the Divide, where the waters run to 
thejiorth, to Bear River — which we soon 
reach and cross on a bridge 750 feet long, 
and 97 feet high; amid towering pine and 
spruce trees and the most romantic scen- 
ery — then, 4.5 miles from Colfax, we come 
to the side-track station of 

You Bet— the town of w r hich is four 
miles to the east — heretofore described. 
We now come to the Greenhorn. Follow- 
ing it up through a 350-foot tunnel, we 
cross that creek on a trestle and bridge 700 
feet long; on, up and over another 450 feet 
trestle, along the side of the mountain, 
overlooking the Greenhorn, around the 
great " S " curve, on a grade of 105 feet to 
the mile; through heavy rock cuts, almost 
doubling back on our route. 

Storms — another side-track, by a great 
saw-mill, is four miles further, but the 
trains stop only on signal. The moun- 
tains on the route up to this station are 
covered with pines, spruce and oaks. The 
chasins are fearfully grand in places on 
the left. 

Buena Vista — another side-track, in the 
Noonday Valley, is four miles from Storms, 
from whence, continuing on up two miles, 
we reach 

Kress Summit— with an altitude of 
2,851 leet. From the summit the descent 
is rapid, 151 feet to the mile; the moun- 
tains are here covered with small pines 
and manzanitas, the big timber that once 
covered them having long since been cut 
off, and used to a great extent in the mines 
at Grass Valley. On the road down, we 
pass many evidences of placer mining, and, 
doubtless, will see some Chinamen work- 
ing over the old placers near Union Hill. 
On the left are several old mills, and just 
before reaching Grass Valley, away to the 
right, across a low place in the ridge, can 



be seen two great Quartz Mills — the Idaho 
and Eureka. Those mills, although now 
on our right, wall be on our left after we 
pass the next siation. The distance across 
from track to track is 1,200 feet; around, it 
is three miles, 

Grass Valley— This is an old and still 
a thriving mining town of lull 7,500 in- 
habitants. It is situated 17 miles from 
Colfax, 85 miles east of Marysville, and 
five and a-half miles west of Nevada; on 
the sides of the hills, along the ravines, 
with comfortable little residences scattered 
about the nooks and gulches promiscu- 
ously. It contains some good business 
blocks, and some tine private residences. 
The private dwellings, generally, are en- 
closed in fine orchards and gardens, which 
give them an air of comfort and home-like 
beauty. The town derives its prominence 
from the quartz mines in and around it. 
No town in the State has produced an 
equal amount of gold from quartz, and 
none has added more real wealth to the 
State at large. 

In September, 1850, a miner picked up 
a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold 
Hill. From this, prospecting commenced, 
and soon several valuable mines were 
opened. In 1851, the first quartz mill was 
erected in Boston Ravine, now one of the 
most populous portions of the town. 

Grass Valley now contains 19 quartz 
mills, agregating 305 stamps, besides 
three large de-sulphurising works. The 
city is illuminated with gas, has two good 
hotels — the Exchange and the Wisconsin, 
one daily newspaper, the Grass Valley 
Union, and the Foothill Tidings, a weekly. 
Of the quartz mills, one is worthy of special 
note — the Idaho. Up to January, 1877; 
this mill had never failed to pay a divi- 
dend for 100 months in succession, varying 
from $5 to $25 per share. There are 8,100 
shares of a par value of $100; and these 
shares have sold as high as $750 each. The 
total receipts for nine years were $4,589,r 
255 ; dividends paid, $2,270,750. 

Stages leave Grass Valley for Marys- 
ville, west 35 miles. Leaving the depot, 
which is on the south side and overlooking 
the town, we turn east, leaving the Idaho 
mill and the old Eureka mill, (now aban- 
doned), on our left, and follow up through 
a section of country where are long flumes, 
and many signs of placer mining, as well 
as old washed out diggings. We pass 
some orchards of fruit, a little meadow- 
land, cross Wolff Creek, see the Chinamen 



180 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



digging over the old claims, note the young 
pines, and the long "V" flume which brings 
lumber from the mountains to the east- 
ward twelve miles, and climb up to the 
Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long; elevation 
2,774 feet; and then descend, passing 
old mills and new mills, a portion of the 
city of Nevada, away across on the oppo- 
site side of the mountain, peacefully re- 
posing—probably all unconscious of our 
near approach. On the descent to the city, 
we pass the New England mill on the 
left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right; 
then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold 
Run Creek, where considerable placer 
mining is still being done, and after a run 
of five and a half miles from Grass Valley, 
arrive at 

Nevada— This city is the county seat 
of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, 
a rapid stream with rugged canyon walls, 
and contains a population of about 4,300. 
There are here seven stamp mills, agrega- 
ting 110 stamps, two de-sulphurizing 
works, and, when sufficient water can be 
had for the purpose, an extensive business 
is carried on in hydraulic mining. 

The place is rather irregularly laid out, 
owing to the formation of the land and the 
creek which runs through a portion of the 
the town. There are some good business 
blocks, good county buildings, several 
hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; 
one daily newspaper, the Transoript; and 
one weekly, the Gazette. There are some 
very nice private residences, surrounded 
with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- 
bery, which contrast strikingly with the 
bare, brown, or red old hillsides. 

The first mining in Nevada was placer, 
creek and gulch-washing. The mines 
were very rich, and lasted several years. 
During this time the famous hill " dig- 
gings," a part of the " old river bed," were 
discovered and opened. They, too, proved 
a source of great wealth, though many 
miners became "dead broke" before the 
right system — hydraulic mining with long 
flumes — was inaugurated. These mines 
proved very extensive and lasting, and yet 
form one of the chief sources of the city's 
wealth. Of late years the attention of the 
people has been directed to cement and 
quartz mining, and several very valuable 
quartz veins have been opened, and fine 
mills erected on them. The quartz interest 
is now a decided feature in the business of 
the city. 

Stages leave Nevada daily for North San 



Juan, 14 miles ; Comptonville, 22 miles ; 
Forest City, 45 miles, and Downieville, 
50 miles. 

North San Juan — is a lively mining 
town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom 
are engaged in hydraulic or other min- 
ing. Theyieldofthe Milton Company's mill 
for 1877, was $233,000; the Manzanita, 
mine, $155,713, tor the same year. Or- 
chards and vineyards are numerous, also 
some fine private residences. 

Comptonville — is another small min- 
ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of 
whom a;e dependent on placer mining, 
and they have a portion of the " old chan- 
nel " or hill mines in the immediate 
vicinity. 

Forest City — is a place of about 400 
inhabitants, also a mining town, working 
"drift diggings." 

Downieville — the largest town in 
Sierra county, is situated on Yuba River, 
with a population of about 1,000. 

Bloomfield — is twelve miles from Ne- 
vada, sometimes called "Humbug," but the 
yield of the North Bloomfield Co.'s mine 
for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a 
humbug. 

With this hasty glance at a country 
where the material for a big book lays 
around loose, we return to the Overland 
road, and again to the westward. 

Leaving Colfax, we follow down Auburn 
Ravine, at times near its bed and anon 
winding in and out among the hills, which 
are here and there covered with small 
oaks and an occasional large oak 
and pine, together with the Manzanita, a 
peculiar shrub, resembling the thorn of 
the Eastern States, which sheds its onrk 
instead of its leaves. (See Annex No. 50.) 

X. K, Mills— is the ^first station after 
Colfax, 5.6 miles distant, but trains stop 
only on signal. The country is very rough 
and. broken, and 3.31 miles more brings 
our train to 

Applegate — another side-track near 
some lime kilns. Continuing along with 
numerous cuts, fills, bridges and one tun- 
nel near the next station, 700 feet long, for 
2.97 miles, we arrive at 

Clipper Gap— an unimportant sta- 
tion. Again onward, we- leave the ravine 
and keep along the foot hills, to hold the 
grade — passing through many an old 
washed placer mine, in which, only a few 
short years ago, could be seen thousands of 
men digging and washing, washing and 
digging, from morning till night, seeking 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



181 



what is said to be " the root of all evil " — 
gold — and a huge root it is ; they all point 
to it; we are hunting it; have hunted it for 
forty years ; struck the trail several time', 
but it soon got cold ; and it has been diffi- 
cult for some time to find a "color." 

Auburn — The county seat of Placer 
county — is 7.71 miles west of Clipper Gap, 
and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Gar- 
dens, vineyards, and orchards abound, and 
everything betokens quiet, home-comforts 
and ease. It has excellent schools and 
line churches, and is one of the neatest 
looking towns in the county. The public 
buildings, court-house etc., are good, and 
the grounds well kept. The greater portion 
of the dwellings stand a little distance from 
the road. The American, Orleans, and 
Railroad House, are the principal hotels. 
The Placer Herald and the Argus, both 
weekly newspapeis, are published here. 

Stages run daily from Auburn to Pilot 
Hill, eleven miles; Greenwood, 14 miles; 
Georgetown, 20 miles; Coloma, 22 miles; 
Forest Hill, 23 miles; Michigan Blufts, 30 
miles ; Placerville, 80 miles. 

We are now in the foot-hills: 

Alabaster Cave is situated eight miles 
southeast of Auburn, on Kidd's llavine, 
about a mile above its junction with the 
North Fork ot the American lliver. When 
the cave was first discovered, Aug. 19, 1860, 
it was a beautiful place, consisting of one 
room, 100x30 feet. At the north end was a 
most magnificent pulpit, in the Episcopal 
Church style, completed with the most 
beautiful drapery of alabaster ster'tfes, of 
all colors, varying from white to pink-red, 
overhanging andsurroundingthe beholder. 
Immediately under the pulpit was a beau- 
tiful little lake of water. Beyond this 
chamber was another, 200x100 feet, with 
most beautiful alabaster overhangings, in 
every possible shape of drapery. " Vandal 
hands, have, in late years, destroyed much 
of its original beauty. 

After leaving Auburn, we pass through 
Bloomer Cut, (see illustration, page 185) 
then near the next station we pass over the 
New Castle Gap Bridge, which, before it 
was filled up with earth, was 528 feet long 
and 60 feet high. All trestle bridges and 
trestle works on both the Union and 
Central Pacific roads, have all been filled 
in with rock, earth or iron, within the last 
five years. 

fllew Castle — is a small place of 
about 200 inhabitants, 4.89 miles from Au- 
burn. We pass on through little valleys 



and among low hills, with evidences of 
past and a little present mining. 

Off to the right are the old-time mining 
camps of Ophir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, 
and several others, where yet considerable 
placer mining is indulged in by the old 
settlers who are good for nothing else. 

There are several stone quarries near the 
station, where a very good article of granite 
is procured. 

Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch 
the first glimpse of the beautiful valley of 
the Sacramento, from the windows on the 
right-hand side of the cars. There has 
been several points above, where the val- 
ley could be s en for a moment, but very 
indistinctly. Passing on by several valu- 
able stone quarries, for 6.06 miles, we 
come to 

I*ino — We are rapidly descending, but 
among the low hills, covered with chap- 
arral, manzanita and grease-wood, the 
road winds onward for 3.04 miles further, 
passing several valuable quarries, to the 
right and left, when we arrive at 

Rocklin— Here the company have a 
machine shop and round-house of 28 stalls, 
built in the most substantial manner, of 
granite obtained near by. The celebrated 
Rocklin Granite Quarries are close to the 
station, on the left-hand side of the road. 
The granite obtained here is of excellent 
quality, and does not stain on exposure to 
the weather. The stone for the State Cap- 
itol and for many of the best buildings in 
San Francisco was quarried here. 

Leaving Rocklin and the foot-hills — the 
country now opening out into the plains, 
or the valley bordering the American River 
— we have no more hills to encounter; yet 
the country is somewhat uneven, and after 
winding around, on a regular grade, for 
3.91 miles further, we reach the 

Junction — Roseville Junction — This 
place is 18.24 miles from Sacramento. 
Here are several stores, a hotel, and one of 
the best places on the coast to establish a 
flouring mill. Using the wheat t^at is 
raised near, and finding a ready market in 
the mines to the east, would have a decided 
advantage in point of location and freights 
over any other mill on the coast. At this 
junction branches off the Oregon division 
of the Central Pacific, north for Marysville 
and Oregon. The road is completed to 
Redding, 169 miles, and passengers 
can etiange cars here if they choose, or go 
on to Sacramento, as the trains for the Ore- 
gon division are made up at that city, and 



182 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



start on the arrival of the morning train 
irom San Francisco, about 3 p. m. We 
shall take a run over this division, starting 
from Sacramento. (See page 183.) See 
also map on page 136, and schedule of time 
in Annex No. 47. 

Antelope— is 3.9 miles west. The 
country is more level, and clotted here and 
there with varieties of oaks. Passenger 
trains do not stop, hut pass on, and 6.42 
miles further come to 

Arcade — a mere side-track. 

Rolling down 4.56 miles from Arcade, 
the train slowly crosses a long stretch of 
elevated road, and then on to the Ameri- 
can River Bridge, 3.36 miles east of Sacra- 
mento—which spans the main stream of 
the American River — and pass along by 
the orchards and gardens which fringe the 
suburbs of the capitol of California, the 
dome of which can be seen on the left, also 
the State Agricultural Fair Grounds. The 
long line of machine shops belonging to 
the Railroad Company, on the left, arc 
passed, and then we come to the Sacra- 
mento River, on the right, with its crowded 
wharves, and stop at the city of 

Sacramento — Until the spring of 
1870, this was the western terminus of the 
Grand Trans-Continental railroad. But 
upon the completion of the Western Pa- 
cific, from Sacramento to San Francisco, 
the two roads were consolidated under the 
name of the Central Pacific railroad of 
California, making one unbroken line from 
San Francisco to Ogden, 882 miles long. 
The distance from Sacramento to Omaha 
is 1,776.18 miles; Kansas City, 2,002 miles; 
to Stockton, 50 miles; San Francisco, 
138 miles; Vallejo, 60 miles; Marysville, 
52 miles; Portland, Oregon, 642 miles. 

The city is situated on the east bank of 
the Sacramento River, south of the Ameri- 
can, which unites with the Sacramento at 
this point. It i. mostly built of brick ; the 
streets are broad, well- paved, and bordered 
with shade trees throughout a large por- 
tion of the city. It contains numerous 
elegant public and private buildings, in- 
cluding the State Capitol and county build- 
ings. Population, 22,000. Churches, of 
all denominations, are numerous, as well as 
public and private schools. There are two 
orphan asylums; one Catholic, by the Sis- 
ters of St. Joseph, and the other Protestant. 
Secret orders are well represented, and 
newspapers are also plentiful, chief of 
which are the Record Union and the Bee, 
both daily ; the Journal — German — is a 



tri-weekly ; the Leader, the Agriculturalist 
and the Rescue, weeklies. The city is 
lighted with gas and supplied with water 
by two huge pumps in a building just 
north of the depot — with a capacity of 
90,000 gallons per hour. 

Hotels are numerous, but the principal 
ones are the Eagle, Arcade, Orleans and 
Western. Free "Buses" convey passen- 
gers from the depot to any of them, or, 
they can ride past them all on the street 
cars. In or near the city are located 
four flouring mills, six iron works, two 
potteries, smelting works, distilleries, 
plow works, planingmills, and many other 
small factories. The Capital Woolen Mills 
are located here, and consist of main build- 
ing, 216 by 60 feet, with extention 40 by 60 
ft. ; total number of spindles, 1,440 ; employ 
about 65 hands, and use 1,000 lbs. of wool 
daily. (See Ajinex, No. 58.) 

The Johnson <to Brady Wine Co. work 
up 400 tons of grapes annually. The Sac- 
ramento Beet Sugar Factory is near the 
city — capacity, from 80 to 100 tons per day; 
main building, 150 by 63 feet. The fac- 
tory grounds produce about 700 tons of beets 
annually. The company employ, when 
making sugar, 200 whites and 300 Chinese. 

The principal machine shops of tli£ 
Central Pacific railroad arc situated, as we 
have seen, on the north side of the city, and 
with the tracks, yards, etc., cover about 20 
acres. The buildings first erected are of 
wood, still standing and in use. The new 
buildings are of brick, comprising a ma- 
chine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, 
round-house, and several other buildings. 
Nearly all the cars used by the company 
are manufactured here. It is a noted fact 
that the cars on both C. P. and U. P. R. R., 
are far superior in size, style and finish to 
those on the majority of the Eastern roads, 
and for strength and completeness of 
the arrangements for comfort in riding, 
they have no superior on any road. 

The hospital belonging to the Railroad 
Co., a large, airy and comfortable build- 
ing, is located near the shops, where their 
men are taken care of when sick or dis- 
abled. It is well conducted, a credit to 
the company, and of incalculable benefit to 
those unfortunates who are obliged to seek 
its shelter. 

As for the mercantile business, let a few 
"figures talk": 

During the year 1878 the aggregate 
sales of all kinds of merchandise and 
manufactured wares, exclusive of local in- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



183 



terchange, amounted to the sum of $25,496,- 
269. This figure represents the aggregate 
volume of outside trade. 

The city is laid out in a regular square, 
the streets running at right angles fronting 
on the Sacramento River, which here runs 
nearly north and south. They are num- 
bered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those 
running from the river bank, or east and 
west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, 
B, C, etc. 

There is a quitt beauty, peculiar to this 
city alone, which renders it attractive to the 
most careless of travelers. Its well-shaded 
streets; its beautiful gardens, blooming 
with an almost tropical luxuriance; its 
vineyards and orchards, all combine to 
form a city such as one rarely meets with 
in California, and nowhere else. 

Sacramento is endeared to Californians — 
not by reason of herpresent beau y and pros- 
perity, but because she is truly an American 
city, whose people, by their indomitable 
energy and perseverance, have raised 
this monument to our national character, 
despite the ravages of fire and flood. Not 
only have they re-built their city, but they 
have built the ground on which it stands, 
and to-day the ci v y stands some ten feet 
above the original site on which Sac- 
ramento was first established. 

From the small and unimportant hamlet 
of a few years ago, it has emerged into a 
thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the 
young city to the ground, but it rose — 
Phtenix like— more beautiful than ever. 
The floods swept over it, as with a besom 
of destruction, in the winters of '51 and 
'52, and the waters were rushing with 
irresistible force through every street. 
When they abated, the people went to work 
and built levees around their city, and 
fancied themselves secure. Again with 
the floods, in the winter of '61 and '62, 
Sacramento was inundated. To guard 
against a recurrence of these evils, the 
city bed was raised above the highest 
known tide, and instead of w earing away a 
levee, the angry waters find a solid mass of 
earth, on which stands the city, against 
which their efforts at destruction are futile. 
To one who has not resided on this coast, 
it may at first seem strange that a city 
should have been located in the midst of 
such dangers. When Sacramento was laid 
out, both the Sacramento and American 
rivers had bold banks above the reach of 
any floods. But when the thousands of 
miners commenced tearing down the 



mountains and pouring the debris into the 
rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the 
river bed from twelve to eighteen feet above 
its former level. Consequently, when the 
spring sun unlocked the vast volume of 
water confined in the mountain snows, 
and sent it foaming and seething in its 
mad power to the plains, the old and half- 
filled channel could not contain it, and a 
large body of country was annually in- 
undated. Levees were tried in vain; the 
mighty torrent would not be confined ; 
hence the necessity of raising the city 
above its ravages. This has been ac- 
complished; and beyond the present line 
of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds 
the uufilled portion of the city, on which 
is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or 
band, which no past floods have had power 
to break. These levees are guarded and 
kept in repair by the Railroad Company. 
The Statu Capitol — For a description 
of this building, see Annex, No. 15. 



We will now take a run over the 
Oregon Division. 

CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

For time of passenger train leaving 
Sacramento see schedule in Annex No. 47. 

The trains run over the Overland track 
of the "Central " to Roseville Junction, pass- 
ing all stations — except where signaled — 
until the Junction is reached. 

Our road branches off to the left just 
before the station is reached, and stops 
close on the north side of the building, 
and we hear — "All aboard for Marysville, 
Chico and Oregon." We suppose the 
time is not far distant (in the age of 
nations) when passengers will hear, on ar- 
riving at this station: "All aboard for 
Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and 
Behring Straits; close connections made 
with the Yankee Tunnel Company, under 
Behring Straiis for all points in Russia, 
China, Japan, Germany, England, France, 
and the Holy Land! " 

Leaving the Junction, our course is 
north ; we are whirled along over a fine 
road-becl, in and out among the foot-hills, 
with rapid and ever changing scenery on 
either hand, through groves of huge old 
oaks, with large herds of sheep grazing 
about them, for six miles to 

Whitney — a signal station in the midst 
of sheep ranches — cross Auburn Ravine, 
and after a run of 4.5 miles, come to 

Lincoln, which is a village of about 



184 



CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 



300 inhabitants. Just above the station, 
on the right, are located extensive works 
for making sewer pipes, and pottery; 
half a mile further, on the .same side, is a 
new coal mine, recently discovered. A 
little further a turkey ranche, and then, a 
real old-fashioned Vermont farm, only 
there is a great uniformity in the size of 
the rocks. 

Ewing — comes next, a signal station, 
4.1 miles from Lincoln, where we cross 
Coon CreeK and find the land improving, 
for 3.5 miles, when we come to 

Sheridan — This place contains about 
20 buildings, situated on an open plain 
where most of the land is used for grazing 
purposes. We now cross Bear River, 
which has broad bottoms, much of which 
is covered with sand, and the washings 
from the miues above towards Grass Val- 
ley. Here we get a good view of the 
"Buttes," directly ahead. After passing 
over 2.3 miles from Sheridan, we are at 

Wheatland — a place very properly 
named, as it is situated in one great wheat- 
field, with several finejtmildings. a flouring 
mill, a weekly newspaper — the Recorder — 
and an enterprising population of farmers, 
COO or more. 

Continuing along, through a fine country 
2.6 miles, we come to 

Reed's — a signal station of a half-dozen 
buildings. On we go, through broad, rich 
bottom-land, many miles in width, 4.7 
miles to 

Yuba — another signal station on the 
south bank of the Yuba River. Here we 
cross a dyke, which extends up and down 
the river, as far as you can see, thrown up 
to keep the river from overflowing its 
banks, to the damage of the surrounding 
country. The river bottom there is a mile 
in width, covered with oaks and willows, 
across which the road is built on high tres- 
tles. Crossing over, we find another high 
dyke on the opposite side, which we cross, 
and 1.9 miles from Yuba signal station, 
stop at the old city of 

Marysville — one of the prettiest towns 
in the State. It is the county seat of Yuba 
county, situated on the north bank of the 
Yuba River, with a population of about 
5,000. It was first settled in 1849, and 
named in honor of the only white woman 
within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. 
The town is built of brick, the streets wide, 
and laid out at right angles. The chief 
beauty of Marysville consists in the shrub- 
bery which ornaments the town, though 



there are many elegant public buildings 
and private residences in the city. Scarcely 
will you find a dwelling that is not sur- 
rounded with a forest of fruit trees, includ- 
ing orange and shade trees, or embowered 
in a mass of vines and flowers. The city 
is on a level plain, twelve miles from the 
foot-hills, and protected from the spring 
floods of the Yuba by a dyke or high em- 
bankment. The streets are broad and 
regularly laid out. The city supports one 
daily paper — the Appeal — has several good 
hotels, chief of which are the United States 
and Western. There are two seminaries, 
four public, and numerous private schools; 
also five churches, nearly all denominations 
being represented. The city is lighted 
with gas, and supplied with water from an 
artesian well 300 feet deep, from which it 
is elevated by steam power to a reservoir, 
and thence conducted all over the city. It 
has quite a number of manufactories, in- 
cluding an iron foundry and machine 
shop, where are maufactured all kinds of 
mill machinery, stationary engines, &c. 
Agriculture is now the principal source of 
wealth of the country. Fruit culture and 
stock-raising are very remunerative. 

Saw-mills ;.re numerous in the county, 
as immense quantities of lumber are ship- 
ped from Marysville. The greater portion 
of the mining is now done by the hydraulic 
process. There are 15 quartz mills in the 
county, and 30 companies owning canals 
or mining ditches, one of which cost 
$500,000, and with its branches is over 150 
miles long. 

There are regular stage lines from Marys- 
ville to Colusa, 29 miles west; Downieville, 
67 miles northeast; North San Juan, 38 
miles ; Grass Valley, 35 miles : La Porte, 65 
miles from Marysville. 

The Northern California. It It. 

This road branches off for Oroville, north, 
and runs to the eastward of Feather River, 
through Honcut, a small place, and arrives 
at O roville,after a run of 26 mi les. This town 
has a population of about 1 ,500, and is the 
county seat of Butte county. It is an old 
mining town, principally placer mines, 
which were at one t me very rich, and in 
some places now are worked to advantage. 
The Chinese are very thick in the old pla- 
cer region, and work these old diggings 
over and over again. The town is em- 
bowered in fruit and shade tr:es, beautiful 
gardens and orchards. 

This county possesses some of the finest 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




BLOOMER CUT. 



85 feet deep and 800 l 

agricultural land in the Stale. All kinds 
of grain and produce are raised in abund- 
ance. The vineyards are numerous, pro- 
ducing large quantities of wine and brandy 
annually. Rasins are produced in large 
quantities, and an immense amount of pea- 
nuts are gathered for market every year. 
Stock-raising is also an important feature. 
Wool is a staple export of the county. 
Schools and churches are in a flour'shing 
condition — a sure evidence of a people's 
prosperity. Stages leave Oroville regularly 
for La Porte, r.2 miles; Susanville, 105 
miles; as well as to most of the adjoining 
towns. 

Returning to Marysville, we will now 
take a run to 

Yuba City — situated about one mile 
west of Marysville, containing a population 
of about 1 ,000, and located on the eastern 
bank of the Feather River, just above its 
junction with the Yuba. It is the county 
seat of Sutter county — first settled in 1849. 
The county was named after General Sut- 



el long. See page 131. 

ter, the old pioneer, at whose mill race at 
Coloma, El Dorado county, on the south 
fork of the Ann rit-an River, January 19th, 
1848, the first L-o'd was discovered in Cali- 
fornia. The county has a population of 
about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. 
The soil is very fertile, and produces large 
crops of wheat, oats, and barley; there are 
also some very fine vineyards, producing a 
superior quality of fruit, from which many 
thousand gallons of wine and brandy are 
made annually. 

The city has one newspaper — the Sutter 
Banner — and several hotels. It is at the 
head of steamboat navigation, and is con- 
nected with San Francisco and the world 
by the road over which we came — the 
Oregon division of the C. P., via. Marys- 
ville, between which cities a hack runs 
regularly. 

The " Buttes " — called the "Marysville 
Buttes," are a noted land-mark to the 
westward, about ten miles. They consist 
of a series of peaks that rise from the 



186' 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



crest of an isolated mountain range, which 
stands bold and clear among the plains, 
1,000 feet in height. From appearances, 
one would be led to suppose that this 
ridge crossed the valley at one time, when 
this was an inland sea; and when the 
waters escaped from the lower valley, 
those confined above cut a portion of the 
ridge down level with the plain, and 
escaping, left a beautiful valley above. 

From the summits of their bald peaks a 
fine view can be had of a great portion of 
the Sacramento Valley, including Mount 
Shasta, away to the northward, 220 
miles distant, in latitude 41 deg. 30 min., 
an isolated and lofty volcanic mountain, 
full 14,440 feet high. It is covered with 
perpetual snow, and is the head and source 
of the Sacramento River. (See Annex 
No. 43.) To the northwest, in the Coast 
Range of mountains, can be distinctly 
seen Mts. Linn, St. John and Ripley. 
On the south, Mt. Diablo, in the Contra 
Costa range, while on the east, from north 
to south, is the long range of the Sierra 
Nevadas, as iar as the eye can reach. 

Returning to Marysville, we again start 
on our journey. One mile north of the 
city we cross the track of the Oroville rail- 
road, pa-s several cemeteries on the right, 
also a race track ; then, bear away to the 
lefc — northwest — and cross the Feather 
River on a long trestle bridge. Along this 
river, live oaks and sycamore trees abound 
by the million. 

Lomo — a flag station, comes first from 
Marysville, 6.8 miles. Here are whe-t 
lands which continue, with an occasional 
clump of trees, 3.9 miles, to 

Live Oak — another side track, in the 
centre of some thousands of acres of young 
live oaks, and manzanita shrubs. Passing 
along with the broad valley of the Sacra- 
mento on the left, which stretches away as 
far as the eye can reach, and the Feather 
River Valley on the right, beyond which are 
the lofty Surras, we reach 

Gridley — which is 6.5 miles further 
north. This station has several hotels and 
stores, a dozen residences, and a large grain 
warehouse, and one flouring mill, as, be it 
rememberi d, w T e are now in one of the 
great wheat sections of the State. The 
station was named for a Mr. Gridley — 
maybe it's "Old Bob Gridley" — who 
knows? — w T ho owns somewhere about 
35,000 acres of land adjoining the station, 
much of which he has worked by farmers 
on a division of crops. Live oaks, big ores 



are numerous all the way for 3.4 miles to 

Biggs — This is a lively town of about 
1,200 population, in the midst of fine wheat 
lands, with extensive warehouses for stor- 
ing and handling wheat in nearly all 
seasons. This cereal is a large and sure 
crop. Biggs has a week'y paper— the 
Register— several hotels, chief of which is 
the Planters, and a stage line to Oroville, 
twelve miles east; fare, $1.00. 

The place was named for a Mr. Biggs, 
who, like the Mr. Gridley, is troubled with 
about 30,000 acres of this wheat land, much 
of which yields, when properly farmed, 
50 bushels to the acre. Leaving Biggs we 
cross the big canal of the Cherokee Com- 
pany, which is 18 miles long and 400 
feet wide ; the water is used for hydraulic 
mining, and then for irrigating purposes. 

After a run of ten miles, all the way 
through WLeat fields, we reach 

Nelson — composed of about a dozen 
buildings, surrounded with wheat, wheat, 
all wheat. These fields extend far away 
in every'direction. 

Passing along, we cross Butte Creek, 
and 6.6 miles from Nelson, come to 

Dunham — Here is about a dozen build- 
ings, in the midst of a broad plain studded 
with occasional oaks. A flouring mill and 
large warehouses are near the station. 
Continuing on 6.1 miles, and we step at 
the beautiful town of 

Chico — It is 43 miles from Marysville, 25 
miles northwest from Orovi le, and five 
miles east of the Sacramento River, situated 
in the Chico Valley, Butte county, in the 
midst of as rich a farming section as the 
State affords; population o,000. The city 
is lighted with gas, has ample w r ater-works 
situated near the depot, and has several 
banks and hotels, chief of which are the 
Chico House and tee Union; o e daily pa- 
per, the Record, and one weekly, the En- 
terprise. To the eastward looms up the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, covered with a 
dense forest of timber, in which are many 
sawmills, the lumber from which is floated 
down to within ihree miles of the city, in 
a "V" flume, 35 miles in length. The 
streets are lined With shade trees, groves of 
oaks, and orchards and gardens are on 
every hand. Near the town, General Bid- 
well, the old pioneer, has an extensive 
ranche — or farm, as it would be called in 
the Eastern States — which is in a very 
high state of cultivation, producing abun- 
dantly all kinds of fruits and plants of 
the temperate and semi-tropical climes. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



IS" 



Stage routes from Chico are numerous. 
Six-horse coaches, in summer, leave for 
Oroville, 25 miles; Butteville, Plumas 
Co., 63 miles; fare, 10 cents per mile. 
Stages leave for Diamondville, eleven 
miles; Butte Creek, 12 miles; and Hell- 
town, 14 miles ; also, for Dayton, six miles ; 
Jacinto, 14 miles; Germantown, 13 miles; 
Willows, 56 miles; Colusa, 40 miles ; Wil- 
liams, 49 miles; Allen, 55 miles; and Bart- 
lette Springs, 58 ini.es. Stages run Mon- 
days, Wednesdays and Fridays, to St. John, 
ten miles; Orland, 23 miles; Oiimpo, 30 
miles ; Coast Range, 35 miles ; Newville, 
40 miles. The average fare to all these 
places is ten cents per mile. 

Leaving Chico, our course is more west- 
ward for seven miles to 

Nord — a small station about three miles 
east of the Sacramento River. Next comes 
a side-track, 2.3 miles further, called 

Anita — and 2.4 miles further 

Cana — This place has a population of 
about 100, most of whom are farmers, as 
wheat fields are still the rule. On, 2.8 
miles further comes 

Soto — near Deer Creek, and 4.3 miles 
from 

Vina — a small station near the Sacra- 
mento River, in the center of a very fertile 
region and a great point for grain ship- 
ments. 

Continuing on 7.5 miles further, crossing 
several small creeks, passing some oaks and 
willows along the creeks, we come to 

Sesma — a bide-track, on the east bank of 
Sacramento River, which we cross, and 
stop at 

Tehama — on the west bank of Sacra- 
mento River, where boats often land, being 
a thriving town of about 700 population. 
The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- 
ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama 
has a live daily newspaper. The place 
was, in early days, known as " Hall Cross- 
ing." Agriculture is the principal feature 
of the place, although the lumber business 
is an important item. A " V " flume brings 
the lumber down from the mills in theSierras 
on the northeast, a distance of forty miles, 
with a capacity of 40,000 feet per day. The 
country is very fertile. Live oaks are 
numerous. 

Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- 
inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 
10,578 feet above sea level, which would be 
about 10,000 feet higher than Tehama. 
Continuing along 12.1 miles further, cross- 
ing several small creeks, we come to 



Red Bluffs — the county seat of Tehama 
county, at the head of navigation on the 
Sacramento River, with a population of 
about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of 
rich agricultural and grazing land, with 
many thriving vineyards and several hotels, 
chief of which are the Tremont and Red 
Bluffs Hotel : also two weekly newspapers, 
the Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum- 
ber is an important industry, and the man- 
ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried 
on to a great extent. Mt. Shasta, to the 
north, is a prominent object, rising up out 
of the valley. 

Continuing along, crossing several little 
creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 
10.3 miles, we come to 

Hooker — a signal station, 4.9 miles 
from 

Buckeye — another signal station, lo- 
cated 1.8 miles from 

Cottonwood — This is a small village in 
Shasta county, of about 300 population, 
situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five 
miles west of the Sacramento River. 

Turning more to the northeast, a short 
run of 7.6 miles brings us to 

Anderson's — a village of about £00 pop- 
ulation, 6.3 miles from 

Clear Creek — a small station on a 
creek of that name, which comes in from 
the west, and after 4.8 miles further, we 
come to the end of the road at 

Redding — This place was named for the 
land commissioner of the railroad com- 
pany. This is the terminus of the road, 
having a population of about 500. 

Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- 
cisco, 2 < 5 miles south of Roseburg , Oregon, 
and 475 miles from Portland. 

Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- 
ger, mails and express, for Roseburg, and 
all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. 
At Roseburg connections are made with 
the Oregon & California railroad, for Port- 
land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburg 
from Redding, $41.25. 

This region is fertile in subject matter 
lor our book, but we are limited as to space, 
and with this hasty glance at the most im- 
portant features of the country, now re- 
turn to the city of Sacramento, and again 
start out on another route. 



Up the Sacramento RiTer- 

Stepping on board a light draft steam- 
boat, at the wharf in Sacramento, we are 
off for a trip by water. 



188 



CROFUTT S MW OVERLAND TOURIST 



About the first thing to attract the atten- 
tion of the traveler after leaving the city, 
will be the 

" Tuiles," which is the native name 
given to the rushes which cover the low 
lands and bays of California. They are of 
the bulrush family, probably the father of 
all rushes. They grow from six tot.n 
feet highland so thick on the ground that 
it is extremely difficult to pass among 
them. The lands on which they grow are 
subject to annual overflows. During the 
prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of 
these lands are under water, presenting the 
appearance Of one vast lake or inland sea. 
In the fall and early winter, when the 
tuiles are dry, they are often set on fire, 
forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- 
pecially during the night. When once the 
fire attains headway, nothing can quench 
its fury until the tuiles are swept away to 
the baok of some water-course, which bars 
its further progress. 

The soil composing the land is adobe, of 
a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it 
has been reclaimed, it produces grain and 
vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. 

It is claimed by many, that, with proper 
appliances, these lands could be converted 
into magnificent rice fields ; the advocates 
of this measure asserting that they possess 
every requisite of soil, clime, and adapta- 
bility to irrigation. The State has pro- 
vided for a system of levees, by which a 
large amount of land, heretofore known as 
tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, 
and is now counted the most valuable in 
the State. 

The country, after leaving Sacrament^, 
is level for a vast distance on either hand ; 
the "tuiles " are disappearing, and, before 
we reach Knight's Landing, the lef-hand 
shore is more bold, and the wheat-fields 
and gardens have taken the place of "tuiles" 
along the river bank. 

We have already been to Marysville by 
railroad, now let us go via Feather River, 
a beautiful stream, iis clear waters contrast- 
ing advantageously with the muddy waters 
of the river we have left. We pass through 
a fine country with wheat farms on the 
higher lands, and reach Nicholas, a dull, 
quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- 
ted at the junction of Bear River with the 
Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we 
pass hock farm, the home of the venerable 
pioneer of California, General Sutter. It 
is a lovely place— the old farm-house and 
iron fort standing on the bank of the 



stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank, 
while behind them can be seen the fine 
orchards and vineyards planted by the 
General over 50 years ago. General 
Sutter settled in California under a grant 
from the Russian Government, which con- 
veyed to him large tracts of land around 
Sacramento City, including the city site ; 
also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is 
a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived 
the old pioneer of most of his property, 
leaving him penniless, and a pensioner on 
the State. 

Passing on by the junction of the Yuba 
and Feather rivers, we soon reach Yuba 
near Marysville, 65 miles from Sacramento, 
by water. (See description on page S58) 
Returning to the Sacramento, the right- 
hand bank of the river appears low and 
swampy, covered with " tuiles " for a great 
distance inland. Passing on, we soon ar- 
rive at 

Knight's Landing — a small place — 40 
miles from Sacramento. Population about 
200. It is quite a shipping point for Yolo 
county, and is on the line of the California 
Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- 
tendtd to Marysville, crossing the river at 
this point, but the floods washed away the 
road-bed on the east side of the river. The 
road passed into the hands of the " Central" 
Company, who had a road to Marysville 
via the Roseville Junction. So it never was 
repaired, but the bridge turned to allow a 
free passage of the river boats, and has 
been so, for the last four years, and probably 
will so remain until it rots down. 

For a long distance above Knight's 
Landing, the low marshy plains continue 
on our right, the higher land covered with 
wheat on our left, with no towns of any 
importance to note until we arrive at 

Colusa — This is a point of considerable 
trade — 1 25 miles from Sacramento. It is 
the county seat of Colusa county, situated 
on the west bank of the Sacramento River, 
and contains about 1 ,500 inhabitants. The 
Colusa JSun is publi-hed here. 

The town w r as laid out in 1850, by Col- 
onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa 
Grant " — containing two Spanish leagues. 
It is now the center of a very large farming 
and grazing country. Schools and churches 
are well represented. Stages run daily be- 
tween Colusa and Marysville — 29 miles; 
also to Williams, nine miles west. 

Passing on up the river, the country 
seems to gradually change to a grazing, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



189 



instead of a grain country, more especially 
on the west. 

About 200 miles further and we reach the 
Landing of Chico — but we have already 
described the town on page 186, so we will 
pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores 
are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only 
for grazing when the floods have subsided; 
yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we 
arrive at Red Bluffs— 270 miles from Sac- 
ramento, at the head of navigation. See 
description of the town on page 187. 

"We will now return to the city of Sac- 
ramento, and there take another route. 

Down the Sacramento River. 

Stepping on board of a large passenger 
and freight boat, we start down the river 
towards San Francisco. The plains stretch 
away on either hand, and there is little to 
be seen except the gardens and farms along 
the banks on the higher ground, the wide 
waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- 
tains beyond. On the left — away in the 
dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, 
the mountains the hills, until the vast pile 
towers among the clouds. 

Winding around curves, where the stern 
of the boat is swept by the willows on the 
shore, we glide down the river, past 
sloughs, creeks, and tuile swamps, until we 
pass Fkeeport, 12 miles from the city, a 
little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. 

Floating along between the low banks, 
covered with willow and shrub, we pass 
Mississippi Bend— 24 miles from Sac- 
ramento. Here the river makes one of its 
numerous curves, almost doubling back on 
itself. 

To the left is the little town of Rich- 
land, containing a half-dozen dwellings. 
Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, 
and we have one vast plain around us. 
We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and 
then the Hog's Back — a long sand-bar, 
which stretches diagonally across the 
river. The w r ater here is very shoal. A 
wing dam has been built from the western 
shore, half way across the channel, which 
throw 7 s the water into a narrow compass, 
giving greater depth to the bar. Next 
comes Cache Creek Slough, on which large 
quantities of grain are shipped to San 
Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo 
and Solano counties. Now we are passing 
along by the Rio Vista hills, wiiich come 
close to the w r ater's edge on the right-hand 
shore. These hills are the first w T e have seen 
near the river since leaving the city. They 



consist of one long, low ridge, broken into 
hillocks en its crest. These hills are ex- 
cellent wheat land, yielding an abundant 
harvest. The land is very valuable, though 
but a few years have passed since it was 
sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of 
Rio Vista is situated on the slope of the 
foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- 
habitants. Formerly the town stood 
on the low gtound, near the river bank, 
but the flood of '62 washed it away, car- 
rying from 40 to 60 houses down the river. 
The people fled to the high lands, where 
they remained until the passing steamers 
took them away. For days the little 
steamer Rescue was plying up and down 
the river, running far out over the sub- 
merged plains, picking up the "stragglers," 
who were surrounded by the waters. Some 
were found on the house-roofs, with the 
flood far up the sides of their dwell- 
ings, and others were rescued from the 
branches of trees, which afforded them 
the only resting-place above the waters. 
The flood of '62 will long be re- 
membered by those who then dwelt on the 
banks of the Sacramento. 

We next pass Collingsville, a long 
wharf on the right-hand side of the river, 
with a house or two standing close by. It 
is a point of shipment of considerable 
freight, for the country, and grain for the 
city. A little below this point, the San 
Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, 
entering from the left, forming .Suisun 
Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). 

Antiocii— just across the bay — is in 
Contra Costa county; population, 500. 
Three miles souih, by railroad, are the 
Mount Diablo coal mines, wiiich yield 
large quantities of coal. 

Ihere are several manufactories of pot- 
tery in the town — the clay in the vicinity 
being a very superior article. The Ledger, 
a weekly paper, is published here. Atten- 
tion has lately been attracted to the silk 
culture, and many thousand mulberry trees 
have been planted. 

Passing on down the bay, we enter the 
Straits cf Carquinez, when a long, low 
wharf on the right attracts our attention. 
It is fronting the town of 

Benicia — formerly the capital of the 
State, at the head of' ship navigation, and 
contains about 2,000 inhabitants. It is a 
charming, quiet, rambling old town, with 
little of the noise and buslle of the busy 
seaport. The New Era, a weekly paper, is 
published here. 



190 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



The United States arsenals and barracks 
are located near the town, forming an in- 
teresting feature to the visitor. Benicia is 
j ustly celebrated for her excellent schools, 
public and private. The only law school 
in the State is located here, and also a 
young ladies' high school, or seminary. It 
is connected by steamers with Suisun, 
Sacramento, Stockton, and San Francisco; 
by stage with Vallejo, seven miles west, 
over the rolling hills ; and by hourly ferry 
— two miles distant, across the Straits — 
with 

Martinez — the county seat of Contra 
Costa county, a small town of about 600 
inhabitants. The county is principally de- 
voted to agriculture and vine culture, the 
vineyards being numerous, producing over 
70,000 gallons of wine per annum. The 
Alhambra Ranche, two miles from town, 
owned by Dr. Strenzel, is thought to be the 
b st for its size in the State. It contains 
3,500 grape vines, and 5,000 fruit trees. Its 
proprietor has been awarded a large num- 
ber of medals and prizes for the "best cul- 
tivated form,''' 1 the " best fruit" and the 
"best native wine in California.'''' 

Passing on down the straits, we have a 
fine view of Vallejo, which lies to our 
right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. 
Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings 
us to San Francisco. 

But we must return again to Sacramento, 
and this time will take a seat in the cars of 
the California Pacific railroad, operated by 
the " Central," and start over what is 
known as 

The Vallejo Route. 

Taking our seat in the cars, in the "Cen- 
tral " depot, the train crosses the bridge — 
600 feet long — over the Sacramento River, 
and pass through the town of 

Washington — on the west bank, a 
place of about 1,000 population, then 
cross the " Tuiles " — a broad belt of 
overflowed swamp land — on an em- 
bankment and trestle bridge, raised above 
the annual floods, until we reach the high- 
lands, or elevated plains. The trestle 
bridge affords ample passage for the flood 
tides. 

From Sacramento, it is 9.4 miles to 

Swinglb — a small side-track for loading 
cattle, near by which, large numbers of 
cattle are kept and fed, preparing for 
market. From Swingle it is 3.86 miles to 

Davis — the junction of the Marysville 
Branch, where the road passes on north to 



Knight's Landing and Williams. It con- 
tains a population of about 600, with many 
fine private residences, and one weekly 
newspaper, the Facts. Davisville is in the 
midst of a fine wheat country, and will 
remain a point of shipment for the vast 
crops annually raised in that vicinity. 

Turning north — from Davis — we pass 
through large groves of live oak, and 
highly cultivated fields, and 4.85 miles 
from Davis, come to a side-track for load- 
ing cattle, called Merrit — but it did not 
have merit enough for our train to stop, 
so we passed along 4.35 miles to 

Woodland— the county seat of Yolo 
county, situated three miles west of Cache 
Creek, in the midst of an extensive plain. 
The town is one of the most thriving 
in the State. Population about 3,000. 
Yolo county, in the summer, is one vast 
wheat-field — far, almost as the eye can 
reach, the waving wheat stretches away on 
either hand. Huge oaks are seen in every 
direction, and several large warehouses for 
wheat appear. The principal hotels are 
the Craft, and the Capital. There is one 
daily paper, the Mail; and the Democrat, a 
weekly. Along the road we will observe a 
number of vineyards. 

Soon after leaving Woodland, on the 
right can be seen the race-track where, at 
certain seasons, some good time is made. 
Again on the left, the track of the North- 
ern railway branches off for Williams. 
Groves of oaks, and bands of sheep are 
numerous. 

Curtis — a side-track is passed, 5.25 miles 
fr.mi Woodland, and 3.9 miles more brings 
us to 

Knight's Landing— at the landing of 
which we stopped on our way " up the 
Sacramento." (See description, page 188) 

Returning to Woodland, we take the 
Northern Railway. 

This road is operated by the " Central," 
and passes through one continuous wheat 
field for the whole distance from Woodland 
to Williams, 39 miles. The stations and 
distances are Yolo, 4.91 miles ; Blacks, 
5.88 miles; Dunnigan, 7.52 miles; Har- 
rington, 5.04 miles; Arbuckle, 5.17 miles; 
Berlin, 4.06 miles; Macy, .93 mile; and 
5.73 miles more we are at the end of the 
track at 

Williams — This place is situated in 
Colusa county, nine miles west of Colusa, 
and the Sacramento River. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



191 



The Hot Sulphur Springs are situated 
about ten miles west of the station and 
have been quite a noted resort for invalids. 
Crude sulphur is also found here in large 
quantities. 

Colusa county productions are princi- 
pally wheat and barley. In 1876, there 
was 242,609 acres in wheat, which yielded 
4,600,000 bushels; of barley there was 34,- 
802 acres, which yielded 806,495 bushels. 



Returning to Davisville Junction we 
start again for the south, through as beau- 
tiful a farming country as one could wish 
to see. 

Just after crossing Pu tali Creek we come 
to the great vineyard belonging to a Mr. 
Briggs. It contains 500 acres, the greater 
portion of which is devoted to raisin 
grapes, the balance is in almonds, figs, 
apricots and other fruits. 

Fremont — is the first station on the 
bills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here trains 
seldom stop. 

Dixon — is 4.26 miles from Fremont, and 
is quite a thrifty town, situated in ttie 
midst of a fine agricultural section of So- 
lano county. It has several hotels, a num- 
ber of stores and one weekly paper — the 
Tribune. Passing on, 3.3 miles further, 

Batavia — appears; a side-track, and 
shipp.ng point for grain. The country is 
broad and mostly under cultivation. 

Elmira — is 4.84 miles further; popula- 
tion about 300, most of whom are agricul- 
turalists. Wheat fields continue. Here 
the Vaca Valley railroad branches off to 
the north, through Yolo, the great wheat 
country, 17 miles to Winters. 

Cannon — is a flag station, 4.04 miles 
from Elmira, and 6.47 miles from 

Fairfield — This town is the county 
seat of Solano county, situated on a broad 
plain, with a population of 1,000, and 
rapidly increasing. Small schooners come 
up the slough from the Sacramento River, 
and a rail-track is completed, south, to 
Benecia, 17 miles, where it is proposed to 
cross the river, by ferry (see page 203), 
and connect with the railroad from Oak- 
land to Martinez— which is now completed. 
When this new line is opened it will be 
only 92 miles from Sacramento to San 
Francisco — with no grades — a saving Over 
the Livermore Pass route of 46 miles, and 
only 6 miles longer than by the Vallejo 
route, 26 miles of which are by steamboat, 



and 52 miles shorter than via Martinez. 
From Fairfield, it is 5.38 miles to 

Bridgeport— Just before reaching the 
station, a short tunnel is passed, through a 
spur of the western range, which is thrown 
out to the south, as though to bar our prog- 
ress, or to shut in the beautiful little valley 
in the center of which is located the sta- 
tion. 

The grade now begins to increase, as our 
train is climbing the Suscol Hills, which 
border San Pablo Bay. These hills are 
very productive, the soil being adobe. To 
the tops of the highest and steepest hills 
the grain . fields extend, even where 
machinery cannot be used in harvesting. 
In the valley through which we have 
passed are several thriving towns, but the 
railroad does not go near enough for us to 
see them. 

From Bridgeport, 3.83 miles brings the 
train to 

Creston — but it will not stop, but roll 
down through the hills bordering the bay, 
3.7 miles to 

Napa Junction — Here we are in Napa 
Valley, which is on the west ; beyond are 
the Sonoma hills, over which is the So- 
noma Valley; to the southward S in Pablo 
Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa 
Valley branch, which runs north to Calis- 
toga, 35 miles. (For a description of this 
branch, see page 212.) 

Continuing, our route is now south, 
along the base of the hill we have just 
crossed, which also runs south to the Straits 
of Carquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento 
River, which flows into San Pablo Bay. 
The Fair Grounds of the counties of 
Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 
3.2 miles, and three miles further appears 
North Vallejo, and 1.1 miles more, South 
Vallejo, where the steamboat lays, which 
conveys passengers over San Pablo and 
San Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the 
City of San Francisco. A description of 
this route across the bay, will be found on 
page 212. As North and South Vallejo are 
virtually one, we shall speak of them as 

Vallejo — The town is situated on the 
southeastern point of the high-rolling, grass- 
covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which 
is about four miles long and half a mile wide, 
with 24 feet of water at low tide. The 
harbor possesses excellent anchorage, and 
vessels are securely sheltered from storms. 
The largest vessels find sjJ'c waters; and 
here are laid up the United States ships 
when not in use on this coast. The naval 



192 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



TIHUCE TABLE. 



WESTERN DIVISION. 

SACRAMENTO TO S AN FRANCISCO. 

A. D. Wilder, Superintendent. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 


SAN FRANCISCO TIME. 


EAST FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 


Daily J Daily 

Emigrant Express 

and freight, jlst & 2d el's 


D 'stance 

from 
Omaha 


STATIONS 


Altitude. 

...30.... 
....55.... 
. 32 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 

2:40 

2:25 

2:14 

1:58 

1:50 

1:30 

1:17 

1:10 
12:53 
12:40 

12:05* pm 
11:58 
11:44 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight 


5 :00 pm 
5-28 


10:45 am 

11:00 

11:10 

11:25 

11:33 

11:51 

12 :04 p m 

12:10 

12:26 

12:40 

1:00* 

1:22 

1:35 


..1776.... 
. . 1780 .... 


Lv SACRAMENTO Ar 

Brighton 


700 pm 
6:51 


5:47 
6 17 
6:35 
7.13 

7:40 
7:55 
8:30 
9:00 
10.00 
11) 20 
10:43 


..1784..-. 
..1791... 
..1794.. . 
..1804 . . 
1807 




6*16 




.... 53 ... . 


5:50 




....49.... 


5 35 


Gait 


....49.... 
... 51.... 


5:03 
4:40 


1810.. 




....55..,. 


4:27 


..1817.. 
1823 


Castle 


... 27.... 
....23.... 


4:00 
3 30 


.'.1835!!!! 

..1840.... 
1845 . 


Lathrop 

San Joaquin Bridge 

%W ■ ...Banta's 


... 25.... 
....36.... 
....30.. .. 


2:40 
2 23 

2:05 


. .Ellis 


.... 76 ... . 






..1850.... 

..1858.... 

1867 


Medway 


...357.... 
740 


' 






...4 W 5.... 
...351.... 
...170.... 
.... 86 ... . 






1873.... 


Pleasarton 






. 1878.... 


Sunoi 






..18S4 .. 
1887 










...71.... 






1893 .. 




....48.... 






..1896 ... 
. 1899.... 


Lorenzo 


... 32.... 

....48.... 
....20.... 






1903 








1905.... 


Ea-t Oakland 


...12.... 
....13.... 






..1907.... 


Oakland 






..1909.... 
..1911... 
..1914 ... 


.West Oakland 


....12.... 






Oakland Wharf 


....10.... 






Ar....SAN FRANCISCO ...Lv 







* Meals. Note elevations. 



See Time Tab e. Page 202. 



force, including the monitors, on this side, 
all rendezvous here. On Mare Island, 
just across the bay, are the Government 
works, dry docks, arsenals, etc. The finest 
section dock on the coast is located on the 
island, just in front of the town. Ferry- 
boats connect with the main land and city. 
About 5n0 men are constantly employed at 
the Government works, though at times the 
number is much greater. 

The population of Vallejo is 7,000. It 
has two newspapers, the Times and the 
Chronicle, daily and weekly. The Bernard 
and the Howard are the two principal 
hotels. It has some fine buildings — 
churches of different denominations, pub- 
lic and private schools. The Orphan 
Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an ele- 
vation to the east of the town, and can be 
seen for a great distance. There are some 
very large warehouse-} here, and a great 



many vessels are loaded here with grain 
for Liverpool and other foreign ports. It 
is also the southern terminus of the Cali- 
fornia Pacific railroad, which connects here 
with the steamers for iSan Francisco, 20 
miles distant. 

But we must return once more to Sacra- 
mento, and this time take our old seat in 
the cars of the Trans-Continental railroad, 
bound for "Frisco" or the " Bay," as the 
city of San Francisco is called by the < lder 
" Pilgrims," so good-by, Sacramento. 

The Overland Konte— from Sac- 
ramento is a'ong the eastern bank of the 
Sacramento River, when leaving the city, 
and on through w r ell-cultivated gardens, 
orchards and vineyards, 5.7 miles to 

Brighton — Here Ave learn that the 
cars of the Sacramento Valley railroad, 
managed by the Central Pacific Company, 
run down on the same track as the ' Central," 




SUMMIT SIERRA NEVADAS, DONNER LAKE, SNOW SHEDS AND TUNNELS. (See Annex No. 42., (14.; 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



193 



to this station, where they branch off. Let 
us step into them, and see where they go. 
Patterson's is live miles; Salsbury's six 
miles ; Alder Creek, three miles, and three 
miles more brings us to 

Folsom — twenty-rive miles east from 
Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the 
south bank of the American River popu- 
lation about 2,000 The Telegraph is pub- 
lished here, weekly Vine culture is an 
important industry. So.ne of the finest 
vineyards in the State are near here, in- 
cluding the Natoina, which is celebrated 
for its fine quality of raisins and wine. To 
the north and east of the town, placer 
mining is the principal business; to the 
south and west, farming and grazing. 

There are extensive granite quarries in 
the vicinity. From the bed of the river, 
near this point, large quantities of cobble- 
stones have been obtained, taken to Sacra- 
mento, and used in strengthening the levees 
around the City. Most of th ■ cobble pave- 
ment in San Francisco was obtained from 
the same source. 

Folsom is ornamented with fruit and 
shade trees, and has many fine public and 
private buildings, with magnificent scenery. 

Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, 
via. Mormi n Island, Salmon Falls and 
Greenwood Valley, 24 miles distant. 

Passing on seven miles to White Rocks, 
eight to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle 
Springs, brings us to the end of the rail- 
road, 49 miles from Sacramento. 

Placerville. — is twelve miles from 
Shingle Springs, with which it is connect- 
ed with daily stages. It is the county 
seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of 
Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet 
above tide — present population, about 
2,00J. 

Who has not heard of Placerville, El 
Dorado county ? It was in this county, at 
Coloma, eight miles northeast of the city, 
where the 

First gold discovery — was made Jan- 
uary, 19th, 1848— by J. W. Marshall, in the 
mill race of General Sutter. The an- 
nouncement of this discovery caused the 
wildest gold fecer exci ement ever experi- 
enced not only in America, but in every 
part of the civilized world. 

The news oi these rich discoveries sped 
with the wings of the w T ind, and thousands, 
yes, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States 
left homes, fr ends, and all they held dear, 
to make their fortunes in this, the new El 
Dorado. With many the excitement be- 
13 J 



came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, 
and all manner of sailing vessels were char- 
tered or purchased for a trip "around the 
Horn ;" and no sacrifice was thought to be 
too much to make 1o procure the necessary 
outfit for the expedition. Again there were 
thousand -> who, choosing the land, boldly 
struck out toward the setting sun to cross the 
then almost unknown trackless deserts, 
and pathless mountains. Horses, mules 
and cattle were pressed into service, as well 
as all kinds of conveyances, while many 
started with hand-carts, propelling them 
themselves, upon which they packed their 
tools and provisions for the trip. Again, 
others started on foot, with only what they 
could pack on their backs, "trusting to 
lucky Very few, if any, had a thought of 
the privations to be endured, or the obsta- 
cles to be overcome, so anxious w r ere they 
to arrive at the Land of Gold. 

Those who came by water, passed in at 
the Golden Gate, and up the Sacramento, 
while those by land came pouring over the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natural 
passes, down, down into this beautiful val- 
ley, where a city of many thousands sud- 
denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- 
tle unpleasantness" the place was first 
known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was 
changed to Placerville, which indicated at 
that time, the nature of the mining done 
in the vicinity. Of the many thousands 
who started across the plains and moun- 
tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and 
were buried by their companions, while 
the greater number were "lo»t" by the 
hand'of the friendly Indian or the hostile 
Mormon. 

It has been estimated, and we think cor- 
rectly, could the bones of these emigrants 
be collected, and those of their animals, to- 
gether with their wagons and carts, in one 
continuous line, between the Missouri 
river and the Pacific coast, sine s the rush 
commenced in 18*8, they would be more 
numerous and closer together than the tele- 
graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- 
road across the Continent. 

The early mining done about Placerville 
was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and 
long Tom; these have long since given 
place to the quartz mills— there are 32 in 
the count}'— and the hydraulic process, 
by which nearly all the mining is now 
done. 

Vine culture and fruit culture are now 
the most important occupations of the peo- 
ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits 



194 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while 
the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- 
duced is over 300,000 gallons. 

Placerville contains a goodly number of 
schools, and churches of almost every de- 
nomination, including a "Joss House." 
The different secret orders are well repre- 
sented, and two newspapers, the Democrat 
and the Republican, make their appearance 
every week. 

Placerville is situated in what is known as 
the foot-hills as the chain of broken 
land is called, which lies between the 
Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- 
ing from Fresno county on the south, 
through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, 
El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte 
to Tehama, on the north, comprising nearly 
one-fourth of the arable land of the State. 
The soil is altogether different from that of 
the valleys, being generally of a red, gravelly 
clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys 
which are found among these hills, the soil 
is generally a black loam — the product of 
the mountain washings. Experiments, 
however, have decided the fact that these 
foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- 
fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- 
ties, on these sandy foot-hills are now the 
finest vineyards in the State, from which are 
manufactured fine wines and raisins. 
Here among these hills are as cozy 
homes as one could wish to 
have, where grain, vegetables and all 
kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, 
while thousands of acres are lying vacant 
awaiting the emigrant. 

The mulbery tree and the silkworm are 
cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, 
and this branch of industry is lately re- 
ceiving considerable attention. 

Again we return to the Trans-C nti- 
Nental, which we left at Brighton. 

Florin — is four miles from Brighton. 
The many new buildings the well-cultiva- 
ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all 
denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, 
that would seem to say, "We have come here 
tj live." 

The traveler has probably noticed several 
windmills along the road, before arriving 
at this station. 1 he California Wind- 
mill is a great 5mtituti"n in its way. Ii 
seems to have been brought to a greater 
state of perfection on this coast than any- 
where else. From this place we will find 
their numbers to increase until we get to 
the "Windmill City," as Stockton is t ften 
called, where they can be seen in great 



numbers, in every direction. Many times 
the water is pumped into reservoirs built on 
the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, 
from which pipes take the water to the 
different rooms throughout the house and 
grounds ; the waste water is conducted in- 
to the gardens and fields for irrigating 
purposes. These mills are numerous in 
San Francisco and throughout the State. 
From Florin it is 6.2 miles to 

VA k Grove — Here, too, many recent 
improvements are noticeable. In a clear 
clay the snow-capped Sierras, on the left 
can be plainly seen, and away to the south 
GO miles distant, 

Mount Diablo rising clear and grand 
from out the plains, an unerring pilot to 
those who wandered across these once 
trackless plains that now are teeming with 
life and industry. It is situated in the 
Contra Costa range of mountains, and is the 
meridian* point in the land surveys of the 
State. Elevation 3,876 ftet. The view from 
the summit includes the country and towns 
around San Francisco, San Pablo 
and Suisun bays, and the valleys of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. It 
is reached by rail or steamboats from 
San Francisco, Stockton or Sacramento. 

The beautiful valley through which the 
road passes is now spreading out before us, 
and we begin to realize that nature has 
done much for this "sunset land." 

McConnell's— is a small station 3.5 
miles from Elk Grove. Near are large 
fields, where cattle and sheep are fed and 
fattened for market. 

Before reaching the next station, we 
cross Cosumnes River, wiiich rises in the 
mountains to the northeast. The bottom 
lands are very wide, and covered with 
both white and live oaks, and near the 
stream with willows. The water gets very 
high in the spring-time, and very low in 
the summer. 

Gait — a station with a few dozen build- 
ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and 
shutes for loading cattle and sheep — is 7.7 
miles from McConnell's. At this station 
we find the 

Amadore Branch Railroad, 

let us " change cars," and note the re- 
sult. Leaving the station, our course is 
north a short distance, and then northeast 
towards the mountains, over a section of 
country devoted pretty generally to stock- 
raising — sheep principally. 

Cicero — is the first station, 8.8 miles 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



195 



distant, a small place of about 150 inhabi- 
tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we 
are at 

Carbondale — Here are extensive coal 
mines, operated by the lone Coal Co., who 
load on an average fifteen cars per day — 
150 tons. 

At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, 
large quantities of the best pottery are 
manufactured, which finds its market over 
this road. From Carbondale it is G.7 
miles to 

Ione — the end of the road, 27.2 miles 
from Gait. This place is in Amadore 
county, in a section devoted to mining and 
agriculture. 

The coal mines located here have yielded 
about 200 tons per day during the year 
1878. A new vein of coal, struck towards 
the last of the year 1877, opens up an al- 
most unlimited deposit. Placer mining is 
carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. 

The News, a weekly paper, is published 
at lone, which is also a point from which 
fourteen mining towns, large and small, 
draw their supplies. Some of these are 
reached by stage as follows: Volcano, 
population, 500; West Point, 300; Jack- 
son, San Andreas, Mokelumna Hill, Sut- 
ter, Amador, Drytow'n, Plymouth, and 
Fiddlttown. These places are from ten to 
fifteen miles distant. ' From lone it is 
fifteen miles southeast to Mokelumna Hill, 
(pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) county seat of 
Calaveras county. This is one of the early 
mining towns of the State. Placer mines 
were worked as early as 1848, and are 
worked to some extent at the present time ; 
but quartz mining and agriculture are the 
principal occupation of the people. It is 
a pretty little town ; the streets are orna- 
mented with shade trees on each side, and 
has some beautiful gardens and private 
residences, with good schools and churches, 
several good hotels, and one weekly news- 
paper — the Chionicle — the oldest paper in 
the State. Population, 1,200. 

We will now return to Gait, and start 
once more south. 

Acampo — is a small station where 
trains seldom stop, 5.4 miles Irorn Gait, 
and 2.9 miles from 

JLodi — The country along here has 
been settled up very much in the la t four 
years; the fields are pretty generally 
fenced and well cultivated, and some fine 
vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. 
Many new buildings attest the thrift of the 
people. Stages leave this station daily — 



except Sunday — for Mokelumne Hill, 35 
miles east. 

Castle — is six miles from Lodi. Our 
train rolls along through fine broad bottom 
lands, dotted here and there with white- 
oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like 
an old New England apple-tree. 

Six miles further, just before reaching 
the next station— on the right, that large 
building is the State Insane Asylum. 
The grounds devoted to the use of the 
asylum occupy 100 acres. The first build- 
ing in view is the male department; the 
second, the female. We are now in the 
sub in bs of 

Stockton— the county seat of San 
Joaquin county. Population, 13,000. Ele- 
vaiion, 23 feet. The city was named in 
honor of the old naval commodore of that 
name, who engaged in the conquest of 
California. It is situated on a small bay, 
of the San Joaquin River, at the head of 
navigation ; navigable for crafts of 200 
tons ; yet steamboats of light draft ascend 
the river (San Joaquin) 150 miles farther. 
Stockton is situated in the midst of level 
plains, celebrated for their great yield of 
grain. It is the center of an immense 
grain trade. In early times, the only trade 
depended upon for the support of the 
city was derived directly from the work- 
ing of the mines to the eastward. Some 
of this trade is still retained; but, com- 
pared with the tremendous grain trade 
which has sprung into existence within 
the last six years, it sinks, to a unit. The 
city has many beautiful public and private 
buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- 
lic and many private schools; is lighted 
with gas, and well supplied with water, 
the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet 
deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per 
day — the water rising ten feet above the 
city grade. There are several good hotels ; 
the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- 
cipal ones. The Independent and the 
Herald are daily papers, published here. 
The city is embowered in trees and shrub- 
bery : most of the private residences and 
gardens of the citizens are certainly very 
tastefully ornamented with all kinds of 
vines, shrubbery, and flowers. 

The soil around Stockton is " adobe," a 
vegetable mold, black and very slippery, 
and soft during the rainy season. This 
extends southward to the Contra Costas, 
and west about five miles, where the 
sand commences and extends to the river. 

Stockton, for several years after the com- 




livermore pass tunnel. — See page 198 



plelion of the Overland road, was the 
starting point — in stages— for Yo Semite 
Valley and all the big trees But, by 
the building of the Visalia Division of 
the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for 
Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna 
big tree groves, has taken that route, the 
distance by stage being much shorter. 
(See map of route, page 136.) Again, by 
the building of the Stockton & Visalia, 
and Stockton & Copptropolis railroads, 
all the travel for the Calaveras Big Tree 
Grove, go by that route. (See map.) For 
a description of the route to Yo Semite 
Valley and the Mariposa and Tuolumna 
big trees, (see under "Visalia Division." 
page 226). 

To Calaveras Big Trees— we will 
simply note the route, and refer to Annex 
No. 51, " Book of Reference." Taking the 
S. & V., and S. & C. railroad at the depot 
of the "Central," the route is east, six miles to 
Charleston, three more to Walthall two 



more t > Holden and four more to Peters, 
fifteen miles from Stockton. From Peters, 
a line branches off to the southeast. Taking 
that branch, it is five miles to Farmington, 
three more to Grigo, five to Clyde, four to 
Burnett's and two more to Oak Dale, the 
end of the road, 34.4 miles from Stockton. 
Returning to Peters, it is seven miles to 
Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end 
of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some 
travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, 
Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- 
lumne Big Trees ; distance from Milton, 87 
miles. 

Stages leave Milton regularly for Mur- 
phys, 30 miles ; Sonora, 36 miles ; Chinese 
Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of 
note to the north and east. From Milton 
it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree 
Grove, via Murphys. 

Big Trees— There has been, up to the 
present time, ten " Big Tree Groves " dis- 
covered on the western slope of the Sierra 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



101 



Nevada Mountains, numbering from 92 to 
1,000 trees each, and ranging in height 
from, 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference, 
at the ground, of irom 60 to 95 feet each. 

The largest ever discovered is called the 
" Father of the Forest " — now prostrate — 
and measures 435 feet in length and 110 
feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras 
grove. The elevation of this grove above 
iide is 4,735 feet. The trees number 92, 
ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height, 
The most notabl ■ are. the "Father of Ihe 
Forest," as above stated ; the " Mother "of 
the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- 
ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet 
in circumference ; " Hermit," 318 feet high, 
60 feet in circumference ; " Pride of the 
Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum- 
ference; "Three Graces," 295 feet high, 92 
feet in circumference; " Husband & Wife," 
252 feet high, 60 ttet in circumference; 
" Burnt Tree " — prostrate — 330 feet long, 97 
feet iu circumference; " The Old Maid," 
"Old Bachelor," " Sia*mese Twins," "Mother 
& Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many 
others range from 261 to 300 feet in height 
and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. 
Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa 
grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height 
and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- 
bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 feet in cir- 
cumference, at the ground. 

Hotel accommodations at the different 
groves, and in Yo Semite Valley will be 
found ample. Returning to Stockton, we 
once more take the Overland train for San 
Francisco. This is a great country for 
rapid changes. Where to-day there are 
only stages, to-morrow there may be palace 
cars ; so that it is almost impossible for us 
to keep up with the times. When our 
guide was first published, in 1869, not one 
foot of all the roads we have come over, 
from the Missouri to this place, or will go 
over, or that are, was built or hardly 
thought of. How fast we live! At the 
same proportional increase for the next 
ten years, where will we be ? 

Lathrop — is 8.9 miles south of Stock- 
ion, at tne junction of the "Visalia Di- 
vi-ion" of the Central Pacific railroad. 
Here the R. R. Co. have erected a fine, large 
hotel, before which trains stop 30 minutes, 
to afford passengers an opportunity to take 
a meal, for which the moderate charge of 
50 cents is made. (For a description of the 
country to the south, including Yo Semite 
Valley and the big trees of Mariposa and 
Tuolumna groves, See page 226.) Here 



passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angeles 
and intermediate country can " change 
cars," if they choose, without going to San 
Francisco. 

From Laihrop, it is 3 6 miles to the 
bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here 
Ihe cars come to a full stop before crossing, 
to be sure to guard against accidents— as 
the bridge has a " draw " for the accom- 
modation ot the river boats. This company 
has a rule for all their employes, and a 
" Golden" one it is, that ''In, case of un- 
certainty, always take the safe side " This 
ru'e is well observed; few " accidents " take 
place on the roads operated by this com- 
pany, for the reason that the road is con- 
structed of good materials, and in the most 
substantial manner, with all its equipments 
of ihe first class. The officers are thor- 
oughly pra. ticai men, who never discharge 
an employe on any consideration, who has 
proved to be a competent man for his posi- 
tion, simply to make room for a favorite, 
or a worthless " cousin." 

Crossing the bridge, the long range of 
the Contra Costa Mountaius looms up in 
the distance, directly ahead, and extends a 
long distance to the right and left, on either 
hand, as though to effectually stop our 
progress. We cann t see any place to get 
through or over them, yet we are sure San 
Francisco is on the other side. 

liantas — is 4.4 miles from the bridge, 
and is reached after passing over a broad 
bottom, the soil of which is a rich, deep 
sandy loam and very productive. This 
station consists of a postoffice, a half-dozen 
stores, several large freight warehouses, 
with a surrounding country, well settled, 
most of which is under cultivation. Stages 
leave this station on arrival of trains for 
Graysonville, 20 miles ; Mahoney, 35 miles ; 
Crow's Landing, 35 miles; and HiJ's 
Ferry, 41 miles. 

Alter leaving the station, we have wit- 
nessed, on several occasions, by looking 
away to the r ght, that curious phenomenon, 
the mirage, which is often seen on the 
desert. (See description, page 159.') 
" At Tracy — three miles west of Banta 
we come to the junction of the 

Old and New Overland Route. 

The new route is known as the San 
Pablo & Tulare Railroad, a division of 
the Central, opened in the summer of 
1878, and runs via Martinez, along San 
Pablo Bay via Berkley to Oakland, dis- 
tance 83 miles to San Francisco, with 



198 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



no grades, being 12 miles longer than the 
old route via Livermore Pass. We shafll 
take Old Route first, and then return 
to the new. 

Ellis — is 5.2 miles from Bantas, west, 
situated in the midst of a beautiful valley, 
which is rapidly settling up. The coal 
mines of Corral Hollow are fourteen miles 
distant from this station to the southeast, 
connected a portion of the way by rail- 
track. The "Central " Co. use large quan- 
tities of this coal — besides transporting it 
to San Francisco, and other cities and 
towns. Since leaving the last station we 
have gained altitude, this station being 
76 feet elevation. Another engine will be 
attached here, as the grade increases rap- 
idly after leaving this station until we get 
to the summit of the mountain. 

Midway — formerly called "Zink 
House," is 5.7 miles from Ellis ; elevation, 
357 feet. Soon after leaving the station, 
we enter the bluffs, pass through deep 
cuts and over high fills, our two iron 
horses puffing and blowing furiously as 
they labor up the heavy grade. These 
bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute 
of vegetation. To our right can be seen 
the old wagon road, hut now almost de- 
serted. Still upward and onward, the 
long train thundering around this jutting 
point, and over that high embankment, 
twisting and turning, first to the right, and 
then to the left, like some huge serpent, 
while the bluffs seem to increase in height, 
and the canyon is narrower and darker at 
every turn, until, at last, we are plunged 
into total darkness, and the tunnel of Liver- 
more Pass ; elevation, 740 feet. This tun- 
nel is the only one on the road from Sacra- 
mento to San Francisco ; is 1,116 feet long, 
supported by heavy timbers. (See illus- 
tration, page 196.) 

Passing through the tunnel, our descent 
Is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down 
into one of the loveliest little valleys in 
the whole country, and 7.9 miles from 
Midway our train stops at 

Altamont — This is a small station 
at the foot of the mountain. Speeding to 
the westward 8.1 miles, brings us to 

Iiivermore — a thrifty town of about 
1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are en- 
gaged in agricultural pursuits. The town 
is the center of Li verm ore Valley — one of 
the most fertile in the State — is about 20 
miles long and fifteen miles wide, sur- 
rounded by the Contra Costa Mountains, 
and their numerous spurs. To the north, 



away above the head of the valley, rises 
Mt. Diablo, the meridian center of the 
Pacific coast. 

At the station are several very large 
warehouses for storing grain — as this is a 
productive grain valley — several large 
hotels, some stores and many fine, costly 
residences. Here are particularly notice- 
able the eucalyptus, or Australian blue 
gum tree; we have seen it in a few places 
before, but from this time forward they 
will be found numerous, in some places 
comprising immense groves. These trees 
are planted along the sides of the streets, 
around public buildings, in the grounds of 
private residences, and by the Railroad 
Company, in immense quantities. The 
latter had 300,000 of these trees growing 
beside their road and around their stations 
in the year in 1877, and we understand 
500,000 more are to be set out as soon as 
they can be procured. One peculiarity of 
this tree, besides its being an evergreen 
and unusually thrifty, is, that it will grow 
on the most sandy, alkaline, dry and bar- 
ren soil, and it is said to be a sure preven- 
tive against chills and fever, where it is 
grown in profusion. Some claim that it is 
fire-proof, and that shingles or plank sawed 
from these trees will not burn, and for that 
reason they are very much esteemed in 
Australia — its native country — and from 
which the first on this coast were imported. 
There are 125 known species of the 
eucalypti, about 50 of which are to be 
found in California. 

Leaving Livermore, the ground is 
covered very thickly in place3 with white, 
water-worn pebbles, from the size of a 
mustard seed to that of a bird's egg ; when 
the ground is bare of grass or grain, they 
show very plainly. 

Pleasanton — is reached 6.1 miles 
west of Livermore, after crossing a long 
bridge over Alameda Creek. The town 
contains about 600 population and is beau- 
tifully situated on the western edge of 
the valley, and is a thrifty, substantial tow T n. 

Leaving the station, the mountain again 
looms up directly ahead, and it looks to be 
impossible this time to get through it; but 
soon the train passes around, or through 
several mountain spurs, and emerges into 
a narrow canyon, clown which ripples the 
sparkling Alameda Creek. The bluffs on 
each side are steep, and covered with scrub 
oaks, wild oats,and bunch grass. Sycamore 
trees are to be seen, also white and live 
oaks, some with long, drooping moss- 



cbofutt's new overland totjeist 



199 



covered boughs — some very large — grow 
ing on the banks of the creek, presenting at 
a distance the appearance of an apple-tree 
laden with fruit. On we go, down, 
down, first on one side of the creek, then 
on the other, the bluffs drawing in close on 
both sides, through deep cuts, over high 
bridges, with rapidly changing scenery on 
either hand. Soon we enter a little valley 
where once was located the San Jose Junc- 
tion at 

&unol — the road bed of which can be 
seen on the left. Then the caynon narrows 
to a gorge, and on, on we go past the old 
"Vallejo Mill," the track curving to the 
westward, and 11.6 miles from Pleasan- 
ton the train arrives at 

Xiles— elevation 80 feet. From Liver- 
more Pass we have descended 054 feet, and 
are now in the valley, which continues to 
San Francisco Bay. 

Niles is situated in the thickest settled 
portion of Alameda Valley, surrounded by 
the finest lands in the State of California, 
and will, at no distant day, be a place of 
considerable importance. Seven miles to 
the south, by rail, are the noted warm 
springs of Alameda county. 

Niles is now the junction of the San 
Jose branch, which runs around the head 
of Alameda Valley and San Francisco Bay. 
As the train for San Jose is ready, let us 
step on board and take a look at the coun- 
try. Four miles brings us to Washington, 
About two miles to the east is located the 
old mission San Jose, in a delightful nook 
in the mountains, just such a beautiful site 
as all the old Padres were sure to select. 
Three miles further is the Warm Springs, 
where the traveler will find ample accom- 
modations for a pleasant sojourn. These 
springs are situated a short distance from 
the station, in a quiet little valley among 
tlie foot-hills, rather retired, surrounded 
by attractive scenery. The waters are im- 
pregnated with sulphur, and are highly 
spoken of for their medicinal qualities. 
Nt ar these springs is one of several coun- 
try residerces owned by the Hon. Leland 
Stanford, President of this road. It is now 
occupied by his brother, Josiah, who over- 
looks many orchards of choice fruit, be- 
sides a vineyard containing 100,000 vines. 
From the Springs it is four miles to Mil- 
petas, and seven more to San Jose, at 
which place the " Central " connects with 
the Southern Pacific railroad ft r the north 
and south. (See description of San Jose 
on page 222.) 



Returning to Niles, we continue our 
journey towards "Frisco." 

On a clear day, the city of San Francisco 
— 20 miles distant — can be distinctly seen 
a little to the left, ahead of the train across 
the bay. 

Decota— is three miles from Niles, 
through beautiful fields on our left and 
high bluffs on the right. This is a new 
town — one preparing for the future, and 
promises at this time to be one of unusual 
importance as a suburban residence for the 
merchant princes of San Francisco. 

The lots are very large, with wide aven- 
ues, beside w T hich are planted long rows of 
trees — most v eucalyptus — to the numb; r 
of from 40,000 to 50,000. The water comes 
from living springs, which flow abundantly 
a few miles to the east in the mountains. 
To the left the valley stretches away ten 
miles to San Francisco Bay, dotted here 
and there with comfortable farm-houses, 
and on all sides extensive and well-culti- 
vated fields. 

Passing along, many young orchards and 
groves of trees will be notic- able, also some 
of the beautiful country residences of San 
Francisco's merchants. 

Hay ward's {Station— is 0.3 miles 
from Decota. The town is one mile to the 
east, neutling in beside the mountains, and 
a lovely hamlet it is, completely embow- 
ered in ornamental trees, among which are 
the Japanese persimmon. Near the town 
are two groves of eucalyptus trees, of about 
150 acres, aggregating 250,000 trees, 200,000 
of which are raising for the Railroad Com- 
pany. The town has a population of about 
1.000, many of whom do business in San 
Francisco, going and returning daily, 22 
miles. 

Along this valley for many miles, the 
Railroad Company have planted, beside 
their road, double rows of the " gum-tree," 
as the eucalyptus is called here, and we 
understand, should the experiment prove 
satisfactory they will continue the planting 
until their whole 2,000 miles of road and 
branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yuma, 
in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- 
culiar trees. 

From Hayward's it is 2.7 miles to 

IiOrenzo— This is a small village sur- 
rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to 
the right, beside the mountain, that large 
building is the County Poor House. Some 
of the pioneers of this country, and others 
that were once rich, are in that building. 
This is a country where the " ups and 



200 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



downs " are very rapid; one is rich to-day, 
with gold to throw away, then poor to- 
morrow, without a farthing in the world. 

Alameda county is noted for its peculiarly 
rich and fertile soil, which seems espe- 
cially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds 
of fruit and vegetables, the size and weight 
of which are truly murwlous. This val- 
ley is the currants' home, which are raised 
in immense quantities. Here is located a 
large drying establishment, by the Alden 
process. One man, a Mr. Meek, has a 
2,200 acre farm here, on 300 of which, are 
230,000 currant bushes, 1,200 almond trees, 
4,200 cherry trees, 8,000 prime and plum, 
1,500 pear, 2,500 apple, 1,500 peach, and 
2,000 apricot trees, besides six acres in 
blackberries, and many orange trees. 

Another poor fellow has 120 acres, on 
which are 2,000 plum trees, 2 000 cherry, 
1 ,500 pear, 1,000 apple, 400 peach and apricot 
trees, and 25 acres in currants and berries. 
Still another individual has 100,000 cur- 
rant bushes, and the fourth, raised in 1877, 
200 tons of pumpkins, o00 tons of beets, 
and 20 tons ot' carrots. Currants grow as 
large as filberts; cherries, three inches in 
circumferance ; plums, pears, apples, 
peaches, and apricots, extraordinarily 
large, while carrots grow three feet long, 
ami weigh 35 pounds ; cabbages, 75 pounds ; 
onions, five pounds; water-melons, 85 
pounds; pumpkins — well, no scales can 
weigh them — pears, 3^ pounds; straw- 
berries, two ounces; and beets— not hoode- 
lums — 200 pounds. These beets beat in 
weight those raised in any other country — 
so far as heard from — and, one of our aged 
and revered philosophers once said " they 
beat the devil." — Possibly, we are not 
sufficiently educated to make any positive 
statement of the kind that could be taken 
as reliable All kinds of grain yields are 
enormous. 

From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to 

Nail LeandiD— This place contains 
a population ot* about 2,000. It was once 
the county seat of Alameda county, but that 
honor was taken away to enrich Oakland, 
yet the citizens seem to stand the loss, and 
do not stop in their efforts to improve and 
beautify the town, or in raising the finest 
and largest vegetables in the State. 

The next station is 4.2 miles distant, 
called 

Melrose— This is a small station at 
the junction of the Alameda railroad. Close 
beside the mountain, on the right, is lo- 
( ated the Mills Seminary, for young ladies. 



The building cost about $100,000. The 
grounds occupy 65 acres, and are most 
beautiful, in trees, lawns, etc. 

Alameda — Alameda county, is four 
miles to the left of this station. Popula- 
tion 1,600. It is situated on the eastern 
shore of San Francisco Bay, four miles 
from Alameda Point, and ten miles from 
San Francisco, with which it is connected by 
ferry boats, by the San Francisco & Ala- 
meda railroad, and with the " Central " at 
Melrose. It has good schools and 
churches and elegant private residences. 
The town abounds in beautiful groves 
of oaks. The Encinal and other parks are 
very beautiful. It is a favorite resort for 
bathers and for picnic parties from San 
Francisco. The Encinal and Argus, both 
weekly papers, are published here. 

Passing on to the westward, the traveler 
will note a race track on the left, where 
some of the best blooded stock in the State 
can often be seen exercising. 

Near by is a large smelting furnace, for 
manipulating gold, silver, and other ores. 

We are now passing through what — 
only a few years since — was an open coun- 
try* now the suburbs of a big city, that is 
known as 

East Oakland— once called Brook- 
lyn, 2.3 miles from Melrose. An incor- 
porated part of Oakland — a very thrifty 
place— is separated from the old ci'y by 
an arm of San Antonio Creek, but con- 
nected by bridges. East Oakland and 
Oakland are situated on the eastern shore 
of San Francisco Bay, on ground which 
slopes gradually back fiom the bay for 
several miles to the foot-hills, or base of 
the Contra Costa Mountains, in their rear. 
Upon this sloping ground t>re built many 
elegant "out of town " residences of the 
merchants of San Francisco, which com- 
mand a beautiful view of their city, the 
Bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding 
country. 

A short distance to the northeast, in a 
canyon of the mountains, are situated the 
" Piedmont White Sulphur Springs." 
These springs are strongly impregnated 
with sulphur, and it is claimed that they 
possess medicinal qualities. But why Cal- 
ifornians should be sick, or drink sulphur 
water, when they have such good wine, and 
s ) much of it, we are unable to understand. 
The only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is 
located at this place— the "Oakland Cotton 
Mills." 



C10FUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



201 



Steam cars run regularly between the 
city and San Francisco, every half-hour, 
fare 15 cents; by commutation tickeis 
much less. These cars run through the 
center of the city of Oakland, and not on 
the track used by the Overland train, until 
the long pier is reached below Oakland 
Point. When the road was first built, all 
trains run through the heart of the city, 
but subsequently a road was built on piles 
oyer the shoal water on the edge of the bay, 
skirting the city front, reaching the old 
track on the pier, half a mile below Oak- 
land Point, and at this time, all Overland 
trains take that track. 

Leaving East Oakland our train runs 
along over the water, affording a very good 
v ew of the bay on the left, and on the 
right, Oakland, and mountain to the back 
of it. Two miles further and the train 
stops at the station for 

Oakland — the county seat of Ala 
meda county, has a population of 40,000, 
and is the second city in size on the Pacific 
( oast. Few cities in the world have ever 
increased, with as good, healthy, substantial 
gr >wth, as has Oakland within the last 
seven or eight years. According to the 
census of 18T0, the population was 11,- 
104, an increase in eight years of nearly 
thirty thousand. 

What. Brooklyn, New York, is to New 
York City, so is Oakland to the cit} r of San 
Francisco. The name of the city is sig- 
nificant of its surroundings, as it is situated 
in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, 
with orchards, parks, gardens and vine- 
yards on every side. Nestling amidst this 
forest of perpetual green, can be seen, 
peeping out here and there, the magnificent 
villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- 
dence of the wealthy merchant, and the 
neat and tasteful cottage of the " well-to- 
do " mechanic, wdio have been attracted 
here by its grand scenery, mild climate, 
and quiet surroundings — being free from 
dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city de- 
voted to business. 

Oakland is lighted with gas ; has broad, 
well-paved streets ; is abundantly supplied 
with water; supports several horse rail- 
roads; three daily newspapers— the Trib- 
vne, Times, and the Democrat, and is pro- 
vided with just a score of churches. The 
Masons, Odd Fellows, and many of the 
other fellows have halls and hold regular 
meetings. 

Public and private school* are ample. 
The higher educational institutions com- 



prise the University of California, the State 
University School, the Female College of 
the Pacific, the Oakland Military School, 
the Oakland Female Seminary, and the 
Convent of u Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." 
r l he University of California is at Berkley, 
four miles distant. It is constructed 
throughout of brick and iron — they say, 
earthquake and fire-proof. 

Near the university, towards the bay, is 
located the State Asylum of the Deaf, Dumb 
and Blind. It is a massive stone build ng, 
three stories high, 300 feet above the bay, 
and commanding a very extensive view. 
Oakland, besides its attractions, as a place of 
residence, has become one of great impor- 
tance as a manufacturing city. In the city 
and suburbs are located great numbers of 
all kinds of manufactories, some very ex- 
tensive, giving employment to hundreds of 
people. We have it from the best authority, 
that there are $4,:-S50,000 invested in the 
manufacturing business, the annual pro- 
duct of which amounts to an enormous 
sum. The Central Pacitic Railroad Com- 
pany completed a road called the Berkley 
Branch, and opened it for business, January 
9, 1878, which commences at the end of the 
pier at West Oakland, and runs north and 
eastward around mountains of the Contra 
Costa Range, and in full view of San Pablo 
Bay, to Martinez, 35 miles from San Fran- 
cisco. The principal stations on this route 
are Berkley, 11.08 miles from San Fran- 
cisco; San Pablo, 17.55 miles; Martinez, 
35.55 miles. When the line from Martinez 
is completed via Benecia to Fairfield, as 
referred to on page 203, it is quite possible 
the Overland trains will be changed to this 
new route, making a saving in distance of 
56 miles. (See map, page 1360 

The principal hotel at East Oakland is 
Tubbs' ; at Oakland, the Grand Central . At 
Oakland Point, from which the long pier 
is built out into the bay, are located the 
extensive workshops of the Central Pacific. 
Their yard, and grounds occupy 120 acres 
of land. 

Leaving Oakland, our train speeds along 
through the edge of the city for about half 
a mile, then gradually curves to the south- 
ward running out to meet the main Oakland 
pier, which it reaches, 1.4 miles from Oak- 
land, 1.6 miles from the Oakland end of the 
pier, and 2.1 miles from the end of the pier 
to the westward. Down this long pier rolls 
our train, directly out into the" bay,— but 
we must return to Tracy, which we left at 
page 198, and take the 



202 



CROFTJTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



We\^7" Overland 



.oute. 



TABLE. 



WESTERN DIVISION. 

NORTHERN RAILWAY & SAN PABLO & TULARE 

RAILROAD- 



A. D. Wilder, Snperintendent. 








WEST 


FROM OMAHA. 


SAN FRANCISCO TIME 


EAST FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 


D.iJy 
Emigrant 
and freight 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 
from 
Omaha 


STATIONS 


Altitude. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight 


11:00 
11:45 


1:40 p m 

l:54t 

2:13t 

2:25t 

2:44 

2:55 

3:12* 

3 :21* 

3:32 

3:39* 

3:45* 

3:50* 

3:56t 

4:05* 

4:10 

4:13* 

4:18* 

4:21* 

4:24* 

4:27* 

4:31* 

4:38 

4:40* 

4:50 

5:15 p m 


..1843.... 
..1850.... 


Lv TRACY Ab 


....40.... 
36 


11:30 a m 

ll:18t 

ll:00t 

10:50t 
10:32- 
10:20 
10:03* 
9:53* 
9 43 
9 30* 
9:30* 
9:22* 
9:17t 
9:10* 
9:03 
8:59* 
8:54* 
8:52* 
8 :48* 
8:45 
8:40* 
8:32 
8:30* 
8:20 
8:00 a m 


1:50 
1:22 


12:43 a m 
1:07 


..1859 .. 
...1864 


Byron 


....33... 
....31.... 

5:8 


12:43 


1:43 


..1872 




11:42 


2 :03 


..1877.... 




21 


11:22 


2:36 


..1884.... 


Bay Point 


....21.... 
21 . 


10:47 


2:50 


..1887.... 




10:33 


3:05 
3:20 


..1891.... 

..1894.. 

..1897.... 


Martinez 


....20.... 
....19.... 

18 


10:17 
10:02 


3 :32 


Valona 


9.50 


3:45 


. . 1900 .... 


Tormey 


18 . 


9 35 


3:57 


..1902.. .. 


Pinole ,. 


. 17 


9:24 


4:12 
4:25 


. 1906.... 
..1909.... 


Sobraute 

San Pablo 


. ..16.... 
. 15. . 


9:10 
8:55 


4:32 


..1910.... 




15 


8:49 


4:42 


..1913.... 


Stege 


15 . 


8:38 


4:47 
4:51 


..1914.... 
..1915.... 
..1916.. .. 


Point Isabel 

Highland 


. ..14.... 
14 


8:34 
8.29 


4:57 




... 13.... 

13 


8:23 


5:05 


1918 . 


Stock Yards. 


8:15 


5:15 


..1920.... 
..1921... 
..1923.... 
..1926 ... 


Oakland 16th St 


.... 13... 


8 :05 


5:20 

6:45 a m 


West Oakland 

Oakland Wha-f 

San Francisco 


....11... 
....10.... 


8:00 

5:00 p m 



Will not stop. 



t Stop on signal. 



See Time Table, page 192. 



Tracy — is situated on a broad plain, 
with the Contra Costa range of mountains 
to the south and westward, and the San 
Joaquin River on the east and northward, 
the broad bottom lands of which extend 
for over thirty miles north, where they 
unite with, and from thence become the 
great Sacramento Valley, extending farther 
than the eye can reach. The station build- 
ings are located between the old and the 
new tracks, and are very commodious. 

From Tracy our course is north of west, 
direct for the junction of the Sacramento 
and San Joaquin Rivers. The country is 
principally settled by agriculturists and 
small stock raisers. The lands, where cul- 
tivated, are fenced, and can always be de- 
pended upon for raising good crops ; some 
without irrigation, but all with it — the fa- 
cilities for which are readily obtained, and 
with little expense. 

Bethany — is the first station after 



leaving Tracy, but trains stop only on 
signal. 

To the left five miles, are the Contra Costa 
mountains, grass covered,with timber in the 
ravines, and some trees on the higher peaks. 
Near the station, on the left, is a grove of 
eucalyptus trees. (See description page 
198.) 

Continuing on, nine miles, we reach 
another signal station, named Byron, from 
which it is five miles to the signal station 
of Brentwood. Oak trees are numerous 
for the last ten miles, with some chaparral 
in places on the right. The soil is a rich 
sandy loam, warm, and easily worked. 
The mountains to the left, are here closer 
and covered with trees. Five miles further 
and our train stops at 

Antioch Station — The town is 

one mile to the right, on the banks of the 
San Joaquin River, just above its junction 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



203 



with the Sacramento. (See page 189.) Our 
course is now west. 

Leaving Antioch, we pass under three 
railroad tracks which come down from the 
coal mines, two miles to the left, and run 
to shipping wharfs one mile to the right. 
These mines are extensive, but the quality 
is quite ordinary. 

Our road for the next twenty miles is 
cut through many narrow rocky or sandy 
spurs, from 50 to 100 feet in height, that 
shoot down from the mountains on our left, 
to the water's edge on our right, between 
which, are as many little creeks, or sloughs, 
over which the road is built, sometimes on 
piles, and with tuile lands on each side. 

Cornwall — is five miles from Antioch, 
opposite Suisun Bay, just below the junc- 
tion of the Sacramento and San Joaquin 
Rivers, which are about one mile to the 
right. 

At this station we get a first view of the 
town of Benicia, live miles ahead to the 
right, on the opposite side of the waters. 
Those large buildings on the higher ground 
are the U. S. arsenal and barracks. (See 
description, pages 189,190.) 

To the left of our train, all along beside 
the mountains, are many well-fenced and 
cultivated farms, with neat cottages sur- 
rounded by orchards, vineyards, fruit, and 
flowers, together with evergreen shade trees 
in great variety, and in great abundance. 
Passing Bay Point in eight miles, Avon 
in three, four more will bring us to 

Jflartlnez— (See description page 190). 
Continuing along, at times on the river 
bank and through several rocky cuts, 3% 
miles brings us to 

Carquinez— (pronounced kar-kee-nez). 
This station is named for the straits through 
which the Sacramento River reaches San 
Pablo Bay, a few miles west. At this sta- 
tion a ferry slip is being constructed for 
use when the Overland Route shall be 
changed as at present contemplated (April, 
1879). When all arrangements are com- 
pleted, about four months hence, the over- 
land train will cross the bridge at Sacra- 
mento, run down on the California Pacific 
track, 40 miles to Fairfield (see page 191), 
thence, 17 miles to Benecia; from the latter, 
it is three miles by ferry boat to this sta- 
tion (Carquinez), from which it is 32 miles 
to San Francisco, making 92 miles — six 
miles longer than via Vail ejo— where 26 
miles are by steamboat. It will be 40 miles 
shorter than via Livermore Pass, and 58 
miles shorter than via Tracy, Antioch, and 



Martinez. As there are less number ot 
stops on the new route, and no grades, it is 
expected the time between Sacramento and 
San Francisco will be shortend by full 
four hours ; leave San Francisco four hours 
later, and arrive four hours earlier. 

The ferry slips now building at Benecia 
and Carquinez are of piles, 18 inches in 
diameter, of an average length of 95 feet, 
braced and bolted in the strongest manner 
possible. These slips are built to accom- 
modate a ferry boat, the 

LARGEST IN THE WORLD. 

This boat is 425 feet long on deck, over 
all : 116 feet wide, over all : with a depth 
of 18 feet. It has four tracks running 
from end to end, with a capacity of 48 
freight, or 24 passenger cars. In its con- 
struction, 1,500,000 teet of lumber were 
used. Many of the timbers are over 100 
feet long; four, the Celender Keelson's are 
117 feet long; each measuring 4,032 feet of 
lumber. 

The boilers are eight in number, built by 
the company at their shops in Sacramento, 
of the best Otis steel ; length, 27 feet 10 
inches; shell, 7 feet in diameter. The 
boilers weigh 168 tons, an average of 21 tons 
each; strength, 60,000 pounds per square 
inch ; total heating surface, 19,640 square 
feet; steam room, 2,715 cubic feet; water 
room, 3,000 cubic feet, or 25,000 gallons. 
There are four steam drums 17 feet long, 
five feet in diameter, and four smoke stacks 
40 feet long, 4 feet 9 inches in diameter. 

In the center of the boat there are two 
vertical-beam Condensing Engines, 60 inch 
cylinders, 11 feet stroke ; shafts, 52 feet long, 
22 inches in diameter; wheels, 30 feet in 
diameter, with buckets 17 feet by 28 inches. 
There are four balanced rudders at each 
end of the boat, which is a " double ender," 
and the stearing gear, as well as the cap- 
stans, are worked by steam. The boat is 
buiit of the best materia], trussed and 
bolted in the strongest manner; the ma-- 
chinery in position, weighs 500 tons ; cost 
of boat completed, $350,000. 

It is a monster in size, a model in con- 
struction, a giant in strength, and unlike 
any boat in the world. 

Leaving Carquinez station, the mountains 
come close 1 o the river, and our road bed has, 
in many places, been blasted from their 
rocky sides ; or, through high, rocky, narrow 
spurs which seem to have got right in our 
way. Soon after passing through one of 
these cuts, we catch the first glimpse of San 
Pablo Bay directly ahead, or right of the 



204 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



train. Next to the right, Mare Island ap- 
pears, and further to the right still, the city 
of Vallejo. (For description, see page 191.) 

Soon our train passes Valona, a side 
track, and rolls into a long tunnel cut 
through one of the largest of the many 
narrow rocky spurs which slope down 
from the mountains on the left to the 
waters of the straits on the right, like so 
many huge mountain fingers thrust out 
tantalizingly to bar our progress. How- 
ever, the annoyance is but momentary, 
for as we emerge from the dark tunnel 
to the glorious sunlight, a vision of beauty, 
one of the most diversified, suddenly ap 
pears, as though by magic, before our 
wondering eyes. What a glorious view ! 
Words can never do justice to the picture. 
Across the narrow straits to the right, is the 
harbor and city of Vallejo, w r ith the Suscal 
Hills rising in the back ground close to the 
eastward. Mare Island is one mile to the 
west, across the inlet; to the north, away 
beyond all, is beauteous Napa Valley, at 
the head of which, forty miles away, is 
Mount St. Helena ; still further, and more 
to the left are to be seen the mountains 
in which are situated the great Geyser 
Springs of California. Turning now more 
to the westward, our eye falls upon the 
Sonoma Hills, Sonoma Valley, Petal uma, 
Santa Rosa, and Russian River Valleys, the 
richest and most productive in the world ; 
beyond, and bordering these are the great 
Redwood Forests of California ; still farther 
rise the long blue outline of the Coast 
Range. This range, which bounds our 
vision to the west, extends south to the Gol- 
den Gate. The most elevated peak is Mt. 
Tamalpais, 2,601 feet high. To the south- 
ward and left of our train, w r e behold a 
beautiful narrow valley, extending for 
miles, even to the rugged heights of the 
Contra Costa's. Nestling in the center 
of all these magnificent surroundings — 
like a vast diamond — and sparkling from 
its countless myriads of ripples, is San Pa- 
blo Bay, ten miles in diameter, dotted here 
and there with the keels of commerce, and 
borderered with the deep evergreen of a 
semi-tropical country. Travelers write of 
the beauties of the Bay of Naples, the 
Lake of Como, etc., but we venture the as- 
sertion that for diversity of scenery, extent 
of vision and magnificent coloring, few 
views, if any, can compare with the one 
obtained from this point of San Pablo Bay, 
and the surrounding country 

Running along on the water edge, and 



crossing numerous creeks and inlets, 
through another tunnel, passed Torma, 
another side track, eleven miles from Mar- 
tinez, brings our train to 

Pinole — a small village with several 
large warehouses and a long pier extend- 
ing out into the bay for the accommodation 
of boats and vessels touching at this place. 
The country now presents a better agricul- 
tural appearance, less rocky, the hills are 
not so high, are cultivated to the top, and 
produce abundant crops. 

Four miles further we pass Sobrante, 
a side track, cross several beautiful valleys 
and San Pablo creek and stop at 

San Pablo— three miles from So- 
brante. The town, of about 500 population, 
is nearly one mile to the eastward, nestling 
in beside the mountain foot-hills, embow- 
ered in evergreens and surrounded by well- 
cultivated lands. 

We are now opposite the lower end of 
San Pablo Bay. The neck of land extend- 
ing three miles out to the westward is the 
southern boundary of the Bay, the extreme 
point of which is known as Point Pedro. 

Soon after leaving San Pedro station, the 
passenger will get the first glimpse of San 
Francisco, the Golden Gate, and their most 
prominent surroundings, the view improv- 
ing with each revolution of the wheels. 

The side track stations of Barrett, 
Stege, and Point Isabel, are each passed 
in as many miles, and another mile brings 
us to Delaware St., opposite the town of 
Berkley, which is situated about one 
mile to the left, beside the same moun- 
tains that we have been attempting to "sur- 
round" for the last seventy miles. 

A short distance before reaching the last 
station, that building on the high point to 
the right, is the Powder Works ; the large 
one to the left, 50 yards from the track, is the 
Cornell Watch Factory. The view ob- 
tained at certain points along here of the 
city of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, 
the Bay and its Islands, are very fine. 

Two miles further we pass the Stock 
Yards, a side track, near which are located 
extensive yards for stock and several large 
slaughter-houses, then pass Shell. Mound 
Park, — a " road house" — and two miles 
further stop at 

Oakland, 16th St-(See Oakland 
page 201.) Its one mile further to 

Oakland Point— or West Oakland, 
and rolls clown the pier, two miles in length, 
toward Sundown, to the ferry-boat which 
conveys passengers over the waters, 3.7-10 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



205 



miles to the city of San Francisco. (See 

large illustration of " Birds Eye view of 

San Francisco, and surrounding country.") 

Oakland Wharf— is on the end of 

this pier. Until the building of a pier at 
this place, the only harbor of Oakland was 
to the eastward, at the mouth of San 
Antonio Creek, the water to the westward 
being quite shallow for a long distance 
from shore. The ferry-boats leave and ar- 
rive to and from San Francisco, at this 
wharf every half-hour, and trains, many 
times composed of 18 or 20 passenger cars, 
i un in connection with the boats to Oak- 
land, Berkley, and other points. 

The Pier — is built of the best materials, 
and in the most substantial manner, with 
double track and carriage-way extending 
the whole length. There are three slips. 
The one to the~north is 600 feet long, and 
will accommodate the largest ships, the 
water being 26^ feet in depth at low tide, 
and 32 at high tide On each side of the slip 
are erected large warehouses, one of them 
600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet with 
tracks running through, for the purpose of 
loading and discharging. 

The next slip south was built to accom- 
modate the "Thoroughfare." This 



steamer was designed expressly for taking 
freight cars and cattle across the bay. Her 
capacity is 16 loaded cars and pens for 16 
car-loads of cattle— 288 head— making 32 
car-loads in all. She once made a trip 
across the bay, loaded, running a distance 
of three and a half miles in 22 minutes. 
The boat is 260 feet on deck, 38 feet beam, 
with flat bottom. The engines are 200 
horse power ; cylinders, 22x84, and were con- 
structed at the company's shops in Sacra- 
mento. 

The south slip is the passenger slip, 
where lands the regular ferry-boat between 
Oakland and San Francisco. On each 
side of this slip is a passenger-house — one 
30x70 feet, the other 40x50 feet. In these 
buildings are located the division offices of 
the Railroad Company. They afford ample 
accommodations for passengers, and the 
enormous travel, the advance guard of 
which has only just commenced to arrive. 

The first ship that loaded at this pier 
was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, Eng- 
land. She commenced loading August 
4th, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat, 
brought — some from San Joaquin Valley, 
but the greater portion from the end of the 
Califorma and Oregon railroad, 230 miles 




PALACE HOTEL, JAN FRANCISCO. 

' A. D. Sharon, ' Lessee. 



206 



CEOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



north of San Francisco. 

It is hardly understood yet by the people 
of the world, that the China, Japan, Sand- 
wich Island, and Australian steamships, 
and ships both large and small, can land 
at this pier, load and unload from and into 
the cars of the Pacific railroad ; and those 
cars can be taken through, to and from the 
Atlantic and Pacific Ocean,without change ; 
that immense quantities of goods are now 
transported in that way, much of them in 
bond, in one-tenth the time heretofore oc- 
cupied by steamships and sailing vessels. 
When these facts are fully understood, 
and the necessary arrangements made, 
the rush of (.verland freight traffic will 
commence, the extent of which, within the 
next twenty years, few, if any, can realize. 

From the landing place of the "Thorough- 
fare," in San Francisco, a rail track leads 
to the dock of Hie Pacific mail, and other 
ocean steamships, and goods are now 
transferred in that way in bond, but the 
time is not far distant, when all foreign 
vessels, with goods for "across the conti- 
nent," will land at this pier. 

The Railroad Company have taken 
ample precautions against tire on this pier, 
by providing the two engines that are em- 
ploytd doing the yard work, with force- 
pump attachments, steam from the loco- 
motive boilers, and supplied with reels of 
hose and suction-pipe so arranged that 
water can be used from their tanks or the 
bay. 

Behold ! — As we stand at the end of 
this pier — almost in the middle of San 
Francisco Bay — and think back only thirty 
years, we are lost in wonder and astonish- 
ment. Here are already two great cities 
within a few miles of where we stand ; the 
smallest has 40,000, while the largest teems 
with over 300,000 inhabitants — repre- 
sentatives from every land and clime on 
the face of the earth. In 1847 not 500 
white settlers could be found in as manj r 
hundred miles, and not one ship a year 
visited this bay. Now there are seven 
large steamships in the China trade, six in 
the mail service via Panama, thirty-four 
more regularly engaged on the coast from 
Sitka, on the north; to South America, 
Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the 
south; besides hundred of ships and sail- 
ing vessels of every description — all busy — 
all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier, 
is the extreme western end of the grand 
system of American railways which has 
sprung into existence within the same 



thirty years. How fast we live! The 
gentle breeze of to-day was the whirlwind 
of fifty 3 r ears ago. Will we — can we — con- 
tinue at the same ratio V But why specu- 
late ? It is our business to write what is 
taking place to-day; so we will now step 
on board the ferry-boat and take a look 
around while crossing the bay. 

Goat Island, or " Yerb<i Bunia," is 
about one mile distant from the end of the 
pier, close to the right. It is nearly round, 
^40 feet altitude, containing 350 acres. It 
belongs to the Government. Beyond, look- 
ing over the broad expanse of water, the 
mountains of Marin county loom up in the 
distance, the highest point being Mount 
Tamalpais, 2,604 feet high. It is in the 
Coast Range of mountains, at the south 
point of which is Golden Gate, with Al- 
catraz Island in the foreground. Directly 
in front is the city tf San Francisco. The 
highest point to the right is Telegraph 
Hill — the highest, far beyond, a little to 
the left, is Lone Mountain. In the center, 
that high building, looming up above all 
others, is the Palace Hotel ; to the left the 
Bay of San Francisco. 

But we are at the ferry ; here passengers 
will find "buses" for all prominent hotels, 
or street cars that pass them all; fare, 
five cents. 

San Francisco— Ah ! here we are 
at sundown, at the extreme western city 
of the American Continent. Population, 
300,000, and increasing rapidly. 

On landing at the ferry-slip in the city, 
the first thing required is a good hotel. 
Now, if there is any one thing that San 
Francisco is noted for more than another it 
is for its palatial hotels. The Palace, Bald- 
win, Lick, Occident, Cosmopolitan and 
Grand, are all first-class, both in fare and 
price — charges from three to five dollars 
per clay. The Brooklyn, Russ, American 
Exchange, and International, are good 
hotels, at charges from $2 to $2.50 per day. 
Then there are a gieat many t cheaper 
houses, like the "What Cheer," with rooms 
from 25 to 75 cents per night, with restau- 
rant meals to order. 

San Francisco is situated on the north 
end of the southern peninsula, which, 
with the northern one, separates the waters 
of San Francisco Bay from those of the 
Pacific Ocean. Between these peninsulas 
is the Golden Gate, a narrow strait, one 
mile wide, with a depth of 30 feet, con- 
necting the bay with the ocean. 

The city presents a broken appearance, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



207 



owing to a portion being built on the hills, 
which attain quite a respectable altitude. 
From the tops of these hills a very fair 
view of the city can be obtained. 

A large portion of the city is built on 
land made by tilling out into the bay. 
Where the large warehouses now stand, 
ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in 
safety but a few years ago. To protect this 
made land, and also to prevent the anchor- 
age from being destroyed, a sea-wall has 
been built in front of the city. 

The climate is unsurpassed by that of 
any large sea-port town in the United 
States — uniformity and dryness constitu- 
ting its chief claim to superiority. There 
is but little rain during the 3'ear — only 
about half that of the Eastern States. The 
mean temperature is 54 deg., the variation 
being but 10 deg. during the year. 

San Francisco, in early days, suffered 
fearfully from fires. The city was almost 
completely destroyed at six different times 
daring the years of 1849, '50, '51, and 1852. 
The destruction has been estimated in 
round numbers to exceed $26,000,000. The 
result of these fires has been that nearly all 
the buildings built since 1852 have been 
built of brick, stone, or iron — particularly 
in the business portion. The city has 
many magnificent private residences, and 
cosy little home cottages, ornamente'd with 
evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful 
flowers. The yards or grounds are laid 
out very tastefully, with neat graveled 
walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and spark- 
ling fountains, where, the "crystal waters 
flow." 

The first house was built in San Fran- 
cisco in i835. The place was then called 
" Yuba Buena " — changed to San Francisco 
in 1847, before the discovery of gold. The 
city is well built and regularly laid out 
north of Market street, which divides the 
city into two sections. South of this 
the streets have an eastern declination as 
compared with those running north. The 
city is situated in latitude 37 deg. 48 sec. 
north; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west. 

The principal wharves are on the east- 
ern side of the city, fronting this made 
land. North Point has some good wharves, 
but from the business portion the steep 
grade of the city is a great objection. 

The city is amply supplied with schools, 
both public and private. There is no in- 
stitution of the city wherein the people 
take more interest and pride ; none, of the 
credit and honor of which they are more 



jealous. Some Of the finest buildings of 
the city were built for school purposes, the 
Denman and Lincoln school houses being 
the finest of the number, 

There are churches of all kinds, creeds, 
and beliefs, including several Chinese 
" Joss Houses." The Jewish synagogue is 
the finest among them, situated on Sutter 
street. 

The Newspaper, and Magazine, are 
the histories of the present, and the person- 
who does not read them must be ignorant 
indeed. Californians are a reading people ; 
and he that comes nere to find fools brings 
his brain to a very poor market. 

There are in the city 65 newspapers and 
periodicals, thirteen of which are daily. 
The dailies are the Alta Calif or nian, the 
Bulletin, Morning Gall, Morning Chroni- 
cle, Post, Examiner, Abend Post (German), 
Demokrat (German), Courritrde San Fran- 
cisco (French), Mail, Stock Exchange, Stock 
Report, and the California News Notes, 
illustrated. The Golden Era, and Spirit of 
the Times, are weekly literary and sporting 
papers. The News Le 4 ter, and the Argo- 
naut, are spicy weeklies. The Mining 
and Scientific Press, and the Pacific Rural 
Press, are first-class weekly journals in 
their specialties. Here, too, is published, 
the Journal of Commerce, Commercial Her- 
ald, and the Pacific Life, weeklies. The 
Coast Review is the great insurance author- 
ity of the Pacific coast — monthly. Here 
too, is Wentworth's Resources of California, 
an invaluable journal. If among all 
these publications you can find nothing to 
suit you — nothing new — why, then, sur- 
prise the Bible, by reading it, and you may 
profit by its teachings. 

The Markets of San Francisco are one 
of the features cf the city ; those who never 
saw the fruit and vegetables of California 
should visit the markets. No other 
country can produce fruit in such pro- 
fusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, 
pears, etc., on exhibition in the city mar- 
kets, represent the best productions of all 
parts of the State. 

"Frisco" Brevities — The new City 
Hall is on Market street. California street 
is the Wall street of the city. The Branch 
Mint of the United States is located in the 
new building, northwest corner Mission 
and 5th streets. The Post Office and 
Custom House are on Washington street. 
Merchants' Exchange Building is on 
California street. The Old Stock Ex- 
change is on Pine street ; the New Stock 



208 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Exchange is in Leiclsdorfl" street. Horse 
cars run to all important points in the city; 
fare, five cents. Mission Bay is two miles 
south of the City Hall. Market street is 
the Broadway of San Francisco, though 
Kearney street disputes the honor. 

The Palace Hotel is corner Market and 
New Montgomery streets ; (see description, 
"Annex" No. 49,) the Baldwin Hotel, 
corner Powell and Market streets. The Cali- 
fornia Theatre is on Bush street, also the 
Bush street Theatre. The Baldwin (Thea- 
tre) is on the corner of Market and Powell 
streets. There are three Chinese Theatres, 
where many of the " tricks that are vain," 
are perfoi med nightly, which few can under- 
stand, yet they are worih one visit. 

Water for the city's use is obtained from 
Pillarcitos Creek, 20 miles south of the city, 
in San Mateo county; Lake Honda, five 
miles south, being used as a reservoir. Yet 
there are many wells, the water being ele- 
vated by wind-mills. 

The Libraries are numerous. The 
Mercantile, on Bush street ; the Odd Fel- 
lows, on Montgomery street; the Me- 
chanics' Institute, on Post street ; the What 
Cheer, at the " What Cheer House," and 
the Young Men's Christian Association, are 
the principal ones, open free to tourists 
upon application. Secret Orders are 
numerous in San Francisco — too numerous 
to note here. 

The Baldwin Hotel, under the manage- 
ment of Rice, is a perfect gem of a house 
and the beau-ideal of a " Happy Hunting 
Ground." The magnificent views of Cape 
Horn, on the Columbia River, Mt. Shasia, 
the Loop, Orange Orchard, Woman of the 
Period, and many others in this book were, 
photographed by C. E. Watkins, 26 Mont- 
gomeiy btreet, who has an enormous col- 
lection of views. The views of Mirror 
Lake, Nevada Falls, and many of those on 
the line of tbe Central Pacific, which we 
have engraved and are to be found in this 
book, were from photographs taken by 
Thos. Houseworth & Co., No. 12 Mont- 
gomery street, who have views, seemingly, 
of every thing and every body ontheconst. 
The Mechanics' Pavilion fronts on 
Geary street, and covers one block of 
ground. The Mechanics' Institute own 
the building, and hold their fairs there. 

The Dry Dock, at Hunter's Point, six 
miles southeast, is 465 feet long, 125 feet 
wide and 40 feet deep, cut in solid rock, 
at a cost of $1,200,000. 

Protrero Ship Yards are located at 



Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. 
All kinds of small craft for the coast service 
are built at these yards. 

China Town is situated on Sacramento, 
above Kearny; Dupont, between Sacra- 
mento and Washington streets, and Jack- 
son street, between Dupont and Kearny. 
These streets are occupied exclusively by 
Celestial shopkeepers, "Heathen Chinese." 

The Barbary Coast, a noted resort for 
thieves, cut-throats and the vilest of the 
vile, is situated on Pacific street, between 
Kearny and Dupont streets. We give the 
precise locality, so that our readers may 
keep away. Give it a " wide berth," as you 
value your life. 

Angel Island, three miles north of the 
city, is a mile and a half in length and 
three-quarters of a mile wide; altitude 771 
feet. On this island are quarries of brown 
and blue stone, which are extensively used 
in the city for building purposes. 

Goat Island, or " Yerba Buena," two 
and a half miles east, nearly round, con- 
tains 350 acres; altitude, 340 feet. 

Alcatraz Island, a mile and a quarter 
north, is strongly fortified. The summit is 
140 feet above tide, surrounded by a belt ■ f 
batteries, which command the entrance to 
the harbor— a "key to the position." These 
islands are all owned by the Government. 

Point Labose is six miles west. 

Fort Point is northwest from the City 
Hall, five miles at the south end of Golden 
Gate. It is the most heavily fortified on 
the coast — on the plan of Fort Sumter, in 
South Carolina. 

Telegraph Hill, to the north, is 394 
feet high. 

Russian Hill is 360 feet high. 

Clay St. Hill is 376 feet high. 

The Twin Peaks, four miles southwest, 
rise 1,200 feet. The visitor can obtain 
frcm the summit of these peaks a fine view 
of the whole country for many miles 
around the Golden Gate, and the Great 
Pacific Ocean. 

Ferry-boats run regularly between San 
Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, San 
Quentin, Bt rkley. Sancelito. 

The general office of the " Central " and 
Southern Pacific railroad companies is 
cor. Townsend and Fourth streets, on the 
south side of the city; several street car 
lines run by them. 

The Seal Rocks are six miles we>t, 
reached by a beautiful road. 

Steamers leave regularly for Vallejo, 26 
miles; Benicia, 30; Petaluma, 48; S tnta 



/ 

/ 



; '' 




MOUNT SHASTA, SACRAMENTO VALLEY. CALIFORNIA. (See Annex No. 43.) (13.) 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



209 



Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; 
Sacramento, 125; San Luis Obispo, 209; 
Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa 
Bar bary, 230 ; San Pedro, 364 ; San Diego, 
456; Portland, 642; Victoria, V. I., 753; 
Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 
1,802, Acapulco, 1,808: Sitka, 1,951 ; Hono- 
lulu, 2,090; Panama, 3,230; Yokohama, 
4,764; Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; 
Shanghae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sid- 
ney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,700 
miles. 

The Plaza, Washington, Union, Co- 
lumbia, Lobos, Hamilton, and Alamo 
Squares, and Yerba Buena, Beuna Vista, 
and Golden Gate Parks, are all small, ex- 
cept the last, which contains 1,100 acres, 
but very little improved. The Oakland 
and Alameda parks are largely patronized 
by San Franciscans, who reach them by 
ferry-boat. But what the city is deficient 
in parks, is made up. by the Woodward 
Gardens, for v an account of which see 
Annex No. 44. 

Ocean Steamships — for sailing days and 
other particulars, see Annex No. 27. 

For general items of interest, see Annex 
No. 23. 



Here we are, on the golden shores of 
California. We have come with the 
traveler from the far East to tbe far West ; 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific— from 
where the sun rises out of the waters to 
where it sets in the waters, covering an ex- 
tent of country hundreds of miles in width, 
and recording a telegram of the most im- 
portant places and objects of interest — 
brief necessarily, but to the point — and we 
feel certain that a pardon would be granted 
by the reader, if we now bade this country 
farewell, and started on our return trip. 
But, how can we ? It is a glorious country, 
so let us make a few 

Excursions, 

say Jive, and then we will start on our trip 
towards Sunrise, via the Southern Route. 

Iloute 1 .—To the oEal RocKS,six miles 
west; procure a carriage. Early in the 
morning is the best time to start, as the 
coast breeze commences about eleven 
o'clock, after which it will not be so 
pleasant. We will be fashionable — get up 
early — and drive out to the " Cliff House" 
for breakfast. 

Within the first two miles and a half, we 
pass a number of cemeteries ; some of them 
contain beautiful monuments and are very 
14 



tastefully ornamented. The principal ones 
are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill and 
Odd Fellows. In the Lone Mountain 
cemetery, on our right, under that tall and 
most conspicuous monument, which can 
be seen for many miles away, rests the re- 
mains of the lamented Senator Broderick, 
who fell a victim of the " Code Duello," 
through jealousy and political strife. Near 
by are the monuments of Starr King, 
Baker, and many others, whose lives and 
services have done honor to the State. On 
the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, 
stands a large cross, which is a noted land- 
mark, and can be seen from far out to sea. 

In a little valley, close to the road, we 
pass, on the right, surrounded by a high 
fence, one of the most noted Race Courses 
in the State. 

From the ciiy the road leads over a suc- 
cession of sand-hills; from the summit of 
some of these we catch an occasional 
glimpse of the "Big Brink' 1 '' in the distance, 
the view seeming to improve as we gain 
the summit of each, until the last one is 
reached, when there, almost at our feet, 
stretching away farther than the eye can 
penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in 
all its mysterious majesty. We will be 
sure to see numerous ships, small craft 
and steamers, the latter marked by a long 
black trail of smoke. They are a portion 
of the world's great merchant marine, 
which navigate these mighty waters, going 
and coming, night and day, laden with the 
treasure, and the productions and repre- 
sentatives of every nation, land and clime. 

Close on our right is the Golden Gate, 
with the bold dark bluffs of the northern 
peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is open, 
an invitation to all nations to enter — but 
beside them are the " Boys in Blue," with 
ample fortifications, surmounted by the 
"Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing 
ready to close them at the first signal of 
clanger. 

Our descent from the summit of the last 
hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in 
admiration of the magnificence spread out 
before us, until we arrive at the 

Cliff House — The stranger on the road, 
and at the Cliff House, would think it a 
gala day — something unusual, such grand 
"turn-outs," and so many. The fact is, 
this "Drive" is to the San Franciscan 
what the " Central Park " is to the New 
Yorker — the " style " of the former is not 
to be outdone by the latter. The drive out 
is always a cool one, and the first thing 



210 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



usually done on arriving is to take a drink — 
water — and then, order breakfast — and such 
nice little private breakfast rooms! Oh, 
these Californians know how to tickle your 
fancy. 

Hark! " Yci-Hoi, Yoi-Hoi, Yoi." What 
the deuce is that? Those hearing us, smile. 
We do not ask, but we conclude it must 
be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, 
when two gentlemen enter from the rear, 
and one of them says : " Colonel, (there is 
no lower grade in California) 1 will bet 
you 50 shares in the Ophir or Virginia 
Consolidated, that General Grant, that big 
seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 
3,000 pounds." We did not stop to hear 
more, but rushed out the back door on to a 
long veranda running the whole length of 
the house, which is situated on a project- 
ing cliff, 200 feet above, and almost over- 
hanging the waters, when " Yoi-Hoi, Yoi- 
Hoi, Yoi" — and there were our donkeys, 
500 yards away, laying on, scrambling up, 
plunging off, fighting, and sporting around 
three little rocky islands. The largest of 
these islands is called "Santo Domingo." 
It is quite steep; few can climb it. A 
sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call 
Ben. Butler, has at times attempted it; but 
away up on the very top — basking in the 
sun, with an occasional " Yoi-hoi, boyi" — 
lies General Grant, the biggest whopper 
of their, all. We knew him at the first 
sight. He had something in his mouth, 
and looked wise. Often when the din of 
his fellow seals below become fearful, 
who are ever quarreling in their efforts to 
climb up, his u Yoi-hoi, Boyi" can be 
heard above them all — which, in seal 
language, means, "Let us have peace." 
Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering 
on and around these rocks. They, too, are 
very chattering, but we have no time to 
learn their language, as here comes a 
steamer bound for China. (See illustration, 
page 219.) It steams in close to the islands, 
and we think we can discern some of our 
fellow travelers "across the continent" 
among the passengers. They are on a trip 
" around the world," and are waving their 
compliments to the General on the top of 
the rock. 

Just around that projecting point of land 
to the northwest are Farallones Islands, 
seven in number, thirty miles distant, in 
the Pacific Ocean, totally barren of every- 
thing but seals, sea-lions, and water-fowls. 
These are very numerous. Many of the 
seals will weigh from 2,000 to 3,000 lbs., 



and are quite tame (see illustration, page 
99), as they have never been disturbed 
by hunters ; the birds — and they are 
legion — which inhabit these islands, lay 
millions of eggs every year, which, until 
1871, were gathered and sold in the San 
Francisco markets. The islands are all 
rocks; the highest peak is surmounted 
with a light-house of the first order, 310 
feet above the water. 

Breakfast is called; being fashionable, 
we take another— water — and, while eating 
a hearty meal, learn that these seals are 
protected by the laws of the State against 
capture, and something of their habits; 
then pay our bill, and the ostler his de- 
tainer, take our seat, and whirl around 
over abroad winding road, which is blasted 
out of the rocky bluff on our left to the 
sandy beach below. 

Right here we meet Old Pacific Ocean 
himself — face to face — near enough to 
"shake." He is a good fellow when he is 
himself— pacific — but he drinks a great 
deal, perhaps too much ; but certain it is 
he gets very noisy at times — very turbu- 
lent. In driving along the beach, we come 
to one of the evidences of his fearful 
wrath. Do you see that ship laying on her 
side V 

One night, after a big carousal, when it 
was said Old Pacific had been drinking a 
great deal — more than usual — and was in 
a towering passion, he drove this ship 
up almost high and dry on the beach, 
where you see her. Not content with that, 
he chased the escaping occupants far into 
the sand hills, throwing spars, masts, and 
rigging after them. 

Thank you ! We don't want any of that 
kind of pacific in ours. 

We will now keep our eye on Old Pa- 
cific, and drive along down the beach, by 
several fine hotels, and then turn into the 
sand-hills to the left, passing over a high 
point, where some fine views can be had 
of the surrounding country, and around to 
the old Mission Dolores. Here is food for 
the curious. But we cannot afford to stop 
here long, as Boreas is getting waked up, 
and is sliding the sand over the bluffs 
after us — rather disagreeable. This Mis- 
sion was founded in 1775, by Spanish mis- 
sionaries, who, for over 60 years, wielded a 
mighty influence among the native Cali- 
fornians (Indians). In its most prosperous 
days, the Mission possessed 76,000 head of 
stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, 
79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work- 



212 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and 
barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- 
dize and hard cash. 

The greater portion of all this wealth 
was confiscated by the Mexican Govern- 
ment, so that when California became a 
portion of the United States little re- 
mained, except these old adobe walls and 
grounds, together with about 600 volumes 
of old Spanish books, manuscripts and 
records. 

Returning to the city, we pass many 
objects of interest well worthy of notice, 
and through a portion of the city rapidly 
building up, and in a substantial manner. 

Route 2. — At the wharf, beside Oak- 
land Ferry, we will find one of the large 
steamboats that run in connection with the 
Vallejo route; let us step on board, and 
note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, 
our course is north, with the Oakland 
wharf, the route by which we come — far to 
the right, as also Goat Island. On our 
left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, 
beyond which is the Golden Gate ; a little 
farther to the northward, is the Coast 
Range, with Mt. Tamalpais as the high- 
est peak ; elevation, 2,604 feet. 

Looking back, we have a beautiful view 
of the city; a little further on, Oakland, 
West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, 
with the Contra Costa Mountains for a 
back-ground. Now we pass — on the left — 
Angel Island, San Quintin, and San Rafael, 
in the order written. Now comes the 
"Grandfather," a huge red rock on the 
left, above the "Old Man and Woman." 

Continuing on, we come to the " Two 
Brothers," on which is located San Pablo 
light-house; beyond these are the "Two 
Sisters," making seven rocky islands. 
Opposite the light-house, on the right, is 
Point Pedro, which projects out from the 
mountains on the east, far to the westward, 
as though to bar our progress. 

Rounding this "point," we enter San 
Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right 
and left for many miles. Away to the far 
right can be seen a portion of the town of 
Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, 
through which runs the regular overland 
trains via Martinez, as noted on pages 202, 
203, 204. 

Passing on, we come in front of the 
Straits of Carquinez, through which flows 
the Sacramento River — as noted on page 
200. We have left a broad expanse of 
water on our left, over which steamers run 



to Petaluma — as noted in route No. 3. 

Entering through a narrow channel, 
with Mare Island close on our left, we 
land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars 
of the California Pacific, and roll along to 
the Napa Valley Junction, where we were 
before, while making a trip over the 
" Vallejo Route." (See page 191.) 

Napa Junction — by this route it is 
33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 
from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction 
we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to 

Thompson — a signal station, passed by 
our train, as also many groves of young 
trees on our right, and beauty on every 
side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to 

Napa City — Although this is Napa 
City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa 
River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the 
people by no means look sleepy, but as 
bright as though they had just come out of 
a nap, or/rom a "nip." 

This is a lively town, of about 5,000 
inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navi- 
gation for vessels and steamers of light 
draught ; supporting one daily paper, the 
Reporter, and one weekly, the Record. 

It is in the midst of a country noted 
for its mild and genial climate, the great 
fertility of its soil, and its many well- 
cultivated vineyards — producing annually 
over 300,000 gallons of wine and brandy. 
It is completely hedged in by various 
spurs of the Coast Range. The valley is 
about 40 miles in length, by an average 
width of four miles. This county is much 
distinguished for its medicinal springs, the 
most noted of which are the Soda Springs, 
White Sulphur, and the Calistoga. Near 
all these springs huge hotels have been 
erected, which are crowded in sum- 
mer by residents of this State, as well as 
tourists from the East, who visit them for 
health and pleasure. 

At the head of this valley — in plain 
view — is located Mt. St. Helena, an extinct 
volcano, which rises 3,243 feet above tide. 
The whole section around-about bears evi- 
dences of the volcanic upheaval that once 
lit up this whole country. 

Near Napa City is located one of the two 
State Insane Asylums— we found the other 
near Stockton — completed at a cost of 
over $1,000,000, and capable of accommo- 
dating 800 persons. It is of brick, and 
stands on an eminence about a mile and a 
half from the city, to the east. Four first- 
class seminaries and colleges — for the edu- 
cation of girls and boys — besides many 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



213 



public schools, are at Napa, so educational 
advantages are all right. 

Among the good things at Napa, are the 
Palace and Revere hotels, the first named, 
a very large house near the depot. 

The Soda Springs are situated about six 
miles to the eastward, on the side of the 
mountain. The water from these springs 
has become quite celebrated ; a large 
amount of it being bottled annually, and 
shipped to all parts of the State. 

Stages leave Napa daily for Sonoma, 12 
miles west, continuing to Santa Rosa, 12 
miles further ; also to Monticello, 25 miles ; 
Knoxville, 50 miles northeast. 

Leaving Napa, we cross Napa Creek, 
and roll along through rows of locust 
trees, planted on each side of the road, 
and on the right are to be seen a few mam- 
moth cactus pads, close to the track. A 
run of 5.1 miles and we come to 

Oak Knoll— the country residence of 
Mr Woodward, of Woodward Gardens, 
San Francisco. The farm contains 1,000 
acres, nearly all under cultivation. Of 
this farm 120 acres are devoted to fruit and 
nuts of many varieties. 

Crossing Dry Creek, we come to a black- 
berry ranche of twelve acres, as many 
people in this valley make a specialty of 
raising blackberries. Oaks, manzanitas, 
and pines, now appear in places. 

From Oak Knoll, it is 3.52 miles to 

Youtsville — Here, on the left is a large 
wine cellar, built of brick ; near by are 
large vineyards; further, comes Mason's 
vineyard of 100 acres, mostly raisin grapes, 
which are prepared and packed here for 
market. A run of 3.39 miles and we 
are at 

Oakville — Opposite, on the side of the 
mountain, can be seen a quicksilver mine, 
marked by a red formation. 

Rutherford — is the next station, 1.95 
miles from the last. Fine residences line 
the foot of the mountain on each side, the 
whole length of the valley, many com- 
pletely embowered in shade and fruit trees 
of several varieties. 

Passing on, we find another large wine 
cellar on the right, and 1.94 miles from 
Rutherford comes Bello — a signal station 
with vineyards and another big wine 
cellar. 

Passing along through this beautiful 
valley, with huge moss-covered oaks, vine- 
yards and fields on each side, 2.07 miles is 

St. Helena — This is a town of 
about 1,200 population, on the western 



side of the valley, in the midst of vine- 
yards; in fact, there are vineyards and 
orchards in every direction, some embrac- 
ing hundreds of acres. Near by is the gr°at 
vineyard and orange orchard of King;. 

The town has many neat residences, 
and one weekly paper, the Star. The 
White Sulphur Springs are situated about 
two miles west of the town, to which 
"busses" run regularly. The White Sul- 
phur Hotel is the place to stop. 

Leaving St. Helena, we come to a farm 
of 500 acres, 115 acres of which are in a 
vineyard. Here, on the left, is another 
large wine cellar, near the road. This val- 
ley, particularly this portion, is called 
" safe land," meaning thereby that it can 
always be depended upon for a crop, as the 
fall of rain is sufficient every year to raise 
a crop, and irrigation is unnecessary. 
Barro, a signal station, is 1.98 miles 
further, where the valley is about two miles 
in width, with vineyarclc extending away 
up on the side of the hills. From Barro it 
is 2.1 miles to Bale, another side-track of 
little interest to the tourist, 1.53 miles from 
Walnut Grove, still another small signal 
station. Oaks are thick along these bot- 
toms, and present a beautiful appearance. 
Occasionally we will see the madrone and 
a few Monteray cypress, with some eu- 
calyptus trees, 

Napa Creek, which has been along the 
road on either one side or the other, the 
whole length of the valley, has dwindled 
down to nothing. 

Continuing on, up through beauty on 
every hand, 2.86 miles from the last station, 
we arrive at the end of the road at 

Calistoga — which is the most popular of 
all the summer resorts, near the bay. The 
springs are just east of the depot, the water 
of which is hot enough to boil an egg in 
two minutes, and are said to possess great 
medicinal qualities, having already won a 
high local reputation. In the town, every 
accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., 
is afforded to the numerous visitors who 
annually gather here to drink and bathe in 
the invigorating water, enjoy the unsur- 
passed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, 
and above all, to breathe the pure air of the 
charming little valley, while viewing the 
beautiful mountain scenery. 

The population of the town is about 500 ; 
the principal hotels are the Magnolia and 
Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- 
posed to furnish " all the news " is a weekly, 
called the Calistogian. Calistoga is sit- 



214 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



uated at the head of the valley, 68.15 miles 
from San Francisco, surrounded on three 
sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast 
Range, as well as by vineyards and 
orchards; wine cellars— well, they are 
thicker here than quartz mills at Virginia 
City. 

The Petrified Forest — is distant 
about five miles, and consists of about forty 
acres of ground, covered more or less with 
petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet 
in diameter at the stump. These trees are 
nearly all down, some nearly covered with 
earth and volcanic matter, while the ground 
sparkles with silica. They will well re- 
pay a visit from the curious. 

Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; 
first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to 
Middleton; 20 to Harbern Springs; 20 
to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and- 45 
to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious 
mineral can be shoveled up by the 
cart-load. To the northeast it is 78 miles 
to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 
miles to Glenbrook ; 41 to Kelseyville ; 
48 to LakePoint, situated on the west shore 
of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, 
but particularly in summer. To the south- 
west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, 
eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa 
Rosa. 

The celebrated Foss, with his stage, 
leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain 
road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en 
route to 

The Geysers— These springs, with their 
taste, smell and noise, are fearful, wonder- 
ful. We have been told that u California 
beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be 
far from this place. Here are over 200 
mineral springs, the waters of which are 
hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, soda, alum, sul- 
phur — well, you should be suited with the 
varieties of sulphur! There is white sul- 
phur and black sulphur, yellow sulphur 
and red sulphur, and how many more 
sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if 
there are any other kinds wanted, and they 
are not to be seen, call for them, they are 
there, together with all kinds of contending 
elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bub- 
bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell 
that would disgust any Chinese dinner- 
party. We are unable to describe all these 
wonderful things, but will do the next best 
thing. (See large illustration No. 17 and 
description in Annex No. 45.) 

The Geyser Hotel, seen through the 
foliage in the picture, is the only house 



which provides accommodations at the 
springs. Steam baths and other kinds will 
here be found ample, and board $14 per 
week. In the region of the springs, are 
mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines 
that are being worked to advantage. 

Returning to San Francisco, we start on 
Route 3. 
San Francisco and North 
Pacific Railroad. 

General Offices — San Francisco. 

P. Donahue President. 

A. A. Bean General Superintendent. 

P. E. Dougherty Gen. Pass, and Ticket Agl. 

Repairing to the wharf, a short distance 
north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the 
steamer Donahue, belonging to this road, 
and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, 
until Pedro Point is passed, when the 
course is more to the westward, to the 
mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked 
stream, with salt marshes on each side. 
About six miles from the mouth ot the 
creek, on the right, we come to a double- 
front cottage, which, when we passed up 
here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, 
above the marsh. Several days after, on 
the downward trip, the water covered the 
whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was 
apparently on the first floor of the build- 
ing. When it is understood that the party 
who settled here did so to demonstrate 
that he could reclaim the land by an 
original system of dykes, the joke w r ill be 
apparent, "and to him an aqueous joke. 

From the mouth of the creek, it is about 
ten miles to 

Donahue — named for the President 
of the road. It is situated on the east 
bank of the creek, close in beside the 
bluffs, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from 
San Francisco. It is simply a landing for 
tbe boat where passengers take the cars, 
which stand under a huge, long building 
on the end of the wharf. 

Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is 
close on the right, almost on the water's 
edge. Passing along beside the rolling 
hills, which are cultivated to their summit, 
one mile brings us to Lakeville, not a 
very pretentious place, but from which a 
stage leaves daily for the eastward, over 
the kills, nine miles to 

Sonoma— This town is a quiet, old place, 
founded in 18^0, and contains about 600 
iuhabitants. Many of the old original 
jidobe buildings are still standing in a 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



215 



good state of preservation. Sonoma lias 
the honor of being the place where the 
old "Bear Flag "was first raised. It is 
situated in the. Sonoma Valley, one of the 
richest in the State, and is celebrated for 
its vineyards and the excellence of its 
wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, 
if it is a single rail. The Sonoma Valley 
" Prismoidal " is no creature of the fancy, 
but is completed three miles, and is to be 
extended to Norfolk, seven miles from 
Sonoma, where it will connect with steam- 
boats from San Francisco. 

But to return to the railroad, which we 
left at Lakeville. Rolling hills are on our 
right, mostly cultivated to their summits, 
and a few scattering live-oaks; on the left, 
Petaluma Creek, salt marshes, and in the 
distance a high ridge of the Coast Range. 
Seven miles from Lakeville is 

Petaluma — the largest town in Sonoma 
county, with a population of about 4,500. 
It contains some fine large business blocks, 
two good hotels — the American and the 
Washington. The Courier and the Jour- 
nal Argus are two weekly papers, pub- 
lished here. The town is on the west side 
of the road, situated on rolling hills, by 
the side of which runs Petaluma Creek, 
which is navigable for light-draft boats 
at high tide. Upon and around these 
rolling hills are some beautiful residences, 
ornamented with great numbers of trees, 
among which are the oak, eucalyptus, 
Monterey and Italian cypress, Norfolk 
Island pine, and others, presenting, in 
connection with the mountains and sur- 
rounding scenery, a view most charming 
and delightful. 

Stages leave Petaluma daily for Sonoma, 
thirteen miles east. We understand the 
Railroad Company have a track graded 
and nearly ready for the iron, that runs 
south and west from Petaluma, along the 
base of the mountain to San Rafael, where 
a crossing will be made to San Francisco. 

Leaving Petaluma, we cross Petaluma 
Creek and roll along three miles to 
Ely's, a flag station, amid rolling hills, 
at the head of Petaluma Valley. One mile 
further, we come to a beautiful grove of 
black oaks on a high hill to the right, and 
we ai e at Penn's Grove. Here we cross 
the divide and enter the Russian River 
Valley. Goodwin's is half a mile further, 
a small flag station two and a half miles 
from Page's, another one of the same im- 
portance. Here commences the Cotate 
Grant, which takes in the hills on each 



side, four leagues in extent. Two and a 
half miles from Page's, we are at Cotate 
Ranche, a flag station for the ranche near 
by. At many stations along are to be seen 
cattle pens and shutes, indicating that 
raising and fattening cattle for market is 
one of the industries of the people in this 
section. Here we find many drooping, 
moss-covered oaks. Three miles more and 
we are at the banner town of 

Santa Rosa— population, 4,000. This 
is the county seat of Sonoma counts', 
situated in the midst of one of the richest 
valleys in the State. It is fifteen miles from 
Petaluma, fifteen miles from Healds- 
burgh, thirty-three miles from Cloverdale, 
and fifty-seven miles from San Francisco. 
No city on the Pacific coast has increased 
faster within the last five years than Santa 
Rosa, and that increase has been marked 
by substantial brick business blocks, large 
manufactories, and beautiful private resi- 
dences. 

The city has water-works, gas-house, 
railroads, and all the modern improve- 
ments. Of newspapers, there are one daily, 
the Deinocrat; and one weekly, the Tim- s. 
The Grand, and the Occidental, are the 
two principal hotels. 

The streets of the city are broad, set out 
with eucalypti and other varieties of trees ; 
these, with the surrounding country, afford 
many very beautiful drives. 

Stages leave Santa Rosa daily for Mark- 
West Springs, ten miles east; Petrified 
Forest, fifteen miles (see description, page 
214); and Calistoga, £0 miles; to the west, 
Sebastopol is seven miles. Average fare to 
these places is ten cents per mile. The 
valley of Santa Rosa, in which the town is 
situated, Russian River Valley, and Peta- 
luma Valley, really one, are 60 miles in 
length, with an average width of about six 
miles. 

Sonoma county is a very large one, ex- 
tending to the Pacific Ocean on the west. 
In the western portion are located immense 
forests of redwood timber, which we shall, 
note hereafter. Vineyards are numerous 
as well as orchards where immense quan- 
tities of oranges, lemons, plums, limes, 
apples, English walnuts, almonds, apricots, 
and other fruits and nuts are raised for 
market. There are nearly 7,000 acres in 
vineyard — 5,000,000 vines — which produce 
annually full 2,500,000 gallons of wine, and 
35,000 gallons of brandy. Pomegranite 
trees do quite well, and never fail a crop. 
All the lands in this county are classed as 



216 



OFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



" safe lands " ; owing to their proximity to 
the ocean the rain-tall is abundant for all 
purposes. 

Darying, is an important industry, yield- 
ing, from official reports, 2,750,000 pounds 
of butter, 400,000 pounds of cheese, and 
milk— not enough figures; the amount of 
milk marketed is not recorded. 

In mines, Sonoma is well represented ; 
gold, copper, and quicksilver are the prin- 
cipal metals. In grain, the product figures 
up over 600,000 bushels of wheat; 30,000 
bushels of barley ; 250,000 of oats ; 8,500 
bushels of com, and many other kinds of 
grain in proportion. As for mineral 
springs, why, Sonoma county is the home 
of all kinds of springs, chief of which are 
the Geysers, Skaggs, Mark West, and the 
White Sulphur. 

Four miles from Santa Rosa comes 

Fulton — a small town at the junction of 
the Fulton and Gurneyville Branch. The 
stations on this branch, are: Meacham's, 
two miles ; Laguna, four miles further ; 
Forestville, another two miles; then two 
miles to Greenvalley ; three miles more 
to Korbel's, and another three to 

Gurneyville — in the midst of a forest 
of redwood. Along this branch road, and 
at Gurneyville, are located six sawmills, 
which cut 150,000 feet of lumber daily. 
One of the largest of these redwood trees 
measured 344 feet high, and 18 feet in 
diameter. The town of Gurneyville is 
situated on Russian River, on what is 
known as " Big Bottom," in the finest red- 
wood forest in the State. 

Leaving Fulton and crossing Mark West 
Creek, the first station on the main line is 
two miles distant, called Mark West — 
but our ti ain will not stop, unless signaled. 
The valley along here is ten miles in width. 
Three miles further comes 

Windsor — a small place four miles 
from Grant, a flag station which is two 
miles from 

Heraldsburg — reached just after cross- 
ing the Russian River, on the north bank 
of which it is situated. The town contains 
a population of about 2,000. Fifteen miles 
from Santa Rosa, and 72 from San Fran- 
cisco, is Russian Valley, in which the 
town is located, noted for its great yield of 
wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of 
its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many 
other vegetables within 65 days from the 
time the seed is planted. The Russian River 
Flag, and the Enterprise, are weekly pa- 
pers, published here. The tourist will 



find excellent hunting and fishing near by, 
with ample hotel accommodations. 

From Healdsburg the valley gradually 
Darrows, and four miles further brings us 
to Litton's Springs, a signal station, near 
where arc located the springs of the same 
name. Four miles further is 

Geyserville — Here stages leave for 
Skagg's Springs — a popular resort — situ- 
ated at the side of the mountain, at the 
head of Dry Creek Valley, about eight 
miles west. Truett's is six miles further, 
another flag station, four miles from the 
end of the road, at 

Cloverdale — This town contains a 
population of about 500, with two hotels, 
the United States, and the Cloverdale, and 
one weekly newspaper, the News. The 
town nestles in at the mountain base, at 
the head of the Russian River Valley, and 
is 55 miles from Donahue, and 90 miles 
from San Francisco, being a point from 
which several stage lines radiate, for the 
northern and surrounding country. 

Stages — four and six horse — leave 
Cloverdale daily, for the Geysers, 16 milts 
distant, over one of the finest mountain 
roads in the State. It is built on a uniform 
grade of four feet to the hundred. The 
owners of this line — Van Arnam & Ken- 
nedy — are old u knights of the whip," 
drive themselves, and often make the trip 
in one and a half hours. The fare for 
the round trip is $4.50. For description of 
the Geysers, see Annex No. 45, and the 
large illustration No. 17. 

Stages run north to Ukiah, the county 
seat of Mendocino county, — 31 miles, where 
connections are made with all adjoining 
towns; also, to the northeast, to Hopeland, 
on the Russian River, 16 miles; Highland 
Springs, 22 miles; Kelseyville, 25 miles; 
Lakeport, 36 miles ; Upper Lake, 42 miles ; 
and Bartlet Springs — a great medical resort 
— 63 miles. To the northwest, they run to 
Boonville, 31 miles; North Fork, 50 miles; 
Navaro Ridge, 63 miles ; Little River, 70 
miles ; Salmon Creek, 72 miles ; and Men- 
dicono City, 75 miles; average fare to 
all, ten cents per mile. 

Returning to San Francisco we take 
Route 4:. 
North Pacific Coast Railroad. 

General Offices — San Francisco. 

Milton S. Latham, President. 

Jno. W. Doherty Gen. Manager. 

W. R. Price, Gen. Ticket Agent. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



217 



built and equipped in the best manner, 
traversing a section of the country very 
attractive to the tourist. It runs in a north- 
westerly direction from San Quentin and 
Sancilito, on the west side of the bay, 
twelve miles distant. The road has two 
southern termini, which unite at Junction, 
17 miles from San Francisco. The bay is 
crossed by ferry from Davis St., for San- 
cilito, and from San Quentin Ferry — 
Market St. wharf— for San Quentin. We 
will take the latter route, which for nearly 
ten miles will be the same as No. 2 ; then, 
the route will be more to the westward. 
When near the point of Angel Island, on 
the left, the little town of Sancilito can be 
seen nestling close in beside the mountain. 
Between Sancilito and Angel Island runs 
Raccoon Straits. Mt. Tamalpais now 
looms up away to the left. Nearing the 
shore, also on the left, is 

Sax Quentin — a noted place of sum- 
mer and winter resort. The resident tour- 
ists number from 600 to 1,000, their term 
of residence varying from six months to a 
life-time. The quarters for their accom- 
modation are furnished by the State, free of 
charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exer- 
cises personal supervision over the guests, 
assisted by many subordinates and a com- 
pany of soldiers. The guests come here, 
not. of their own will, but through their 
folly, and we believe they would quit the 
place, if they could. By law it is known 
as the State Prison. The buildings are of 
brick, large, and readily distinguished, on 
the point to the left of the landing. Chang- 
ing for the cars, we glide along on the edge 
of the bay, with oak and shrub covering 
the lolling hills on the left, one and a-half 
miles, and arrive at 

San Rafael — the county seat of Marin 
county; population, about 3,000. It was 
settled in 1817 by the Jesuit missionaries. 
It is situated in a beautiful little valley, 
on low rolling hills in view of the bay 
and San Francisco, and of late has become 
a thriving suburban town, 

The town contains several good hotels, 
and two weekly papers, the Herald and the 
Journal. Along the streets, and around 
the private residences, are many shade 
trees, among which are the blue gum, oak, 
Monterey cypress, spruce and pine, which 
present a beautiful appearance. Proceed- 
ing through the town two miles, we reach 
the 

Junction — Here oonnects the branch 
track from Sancilito ; let us digress long- 



enough to come up on that route. Leaving 
Davis St. Ferry, in San Francisco, the 
course is almost due west for six miles to 

Sancilito — a small town situated close 
in beside the mountains of the Coast 
Range, containg a population of about 300. 
On the trip across the bay, a beautiful view 
can be had of the northwestern portion of 
San Francisco, Alcatraz, the Golden Gate, 
and the forts located there. At Sancilito 
we take the cars and soon come 
to the shops belonging to the Railroad 
Company; three miles further, Lyford's ; 
another " mile, the Summit ; two more, 
across an arm of the bay, is Corte Ma- 
dera ; two miles further 

Tamalpais — Here saddle horses can be 
procured for a ride up to the summit of the 
mountain, 2,604 feet, from which the 
tinestviewcanbe had of the Pacific Ocean, 
San Francisco, and San Pablo Bays, and 
the surrounding countiy, that can be ob- 
tained at any point. The distance is about 
eight miles. From Tamalpais station it is 
two miles to the Junction. From San- 
cilito the route has been one of beauty. In 
almost every nook of the mountain-side 
are residences surrounded with all that 
money and good taste can provide to make 
them beautiful and attractive homes. 

Leaving the Junction, after 1.5 miles 
comes the side-track of Fairfax, sur- 
rounded by rolling hills, covered with an 
eternal verdure of green. Curving to the 
right, look ! away up there to the left — see 
our road ! Can we get there ? Up, up we 
go, through a tunnel, and roll around the 
head of the little valley, and then to the 
left we can look away down and see the 
road up which we passed only a few 
moments ago. Keeping around on the 
southern slope of the hills, with an awful 
chasm on the left, beyond are high moun- 
tains upon the sides of which can be teen 
an occasional huge redwood tree. 

Curving around again to the right, up 
another little valley, our road again ap- 
pears fa?- up on the opposite side, and 
again the head of the valley is reached ; 
the curve to the left is again made, and 
down, far below, is the road bed. There 
are two " Cape Horns," onlj- not as high 
as Cape Horn on the Central Pacific. The 
scenery is very beautiful. 

Climbing up, see, on the right, the 
wagon road to Mt. Tamalpais, under 
which is the tunnel through which we 
pass; altitude, 565 feet; length, 1,250 feet. 
Beyond the tunnel, the grade descends, 



218 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



curving around on the side of the hills, 
down into a little valley through which 
runs the San Geronimo Creek. Here we 
find the madrone tree, (see Annex, No. 8) 
and many oaks with drooping, moss- 
covered boughs. 

Six and a half miles from Fairfax, we 
come to Nicasio, a small station with an 
altitude of 370 feet, The mountains, on 
the left, are covered with a dense growth of 
trees, of many varieties, among which are 
redwood, pine, Douglas spruce, madrone, 
and buckeye shrubs. Passing Lagunitas, a 
small station, the road enters a narrow 
canyon, down which we run, with the red- 
wood towering far above; pass the old 
powder mill and extensive pic-nic grounds 
on the right, which are visited in the sum- 
mer by thousands from San Francisco — 
on, past a big dam, and we arrive at 

Taylorsville — This is a small station, 
named for a Mr. Taylor, who established 
here the p*st paper mill on the Pacific 
Coast, known as the "Pioneer Paper Mill." 
The canyon is narrow, with some tall 
redwoods along the creek, and on the side 
of the mountain to the left. Opposite, the 
country is rolling, with few trees — some- 
thing of a dairy country. 

Tocoloma— comes next, three miles 
from Taylor's. Here a stage line runs to 
the town of Olema, two miles to the south, 
over the ridge, and also to Bolinas, four- 
teen miles distant, Passing on by milk 
ranches, crossing bridges, through deep 
cuts, over high embankments, curving 
around the side of the mountain on the 
left, the train comes out into a little valley, 
and 4.5 miles from the last station, and 
38.5 miles from San Francisco, stops at 

Olema Station — This is an eating 
station, the only one on the road. Trains 
stop twenty minutes. Stages for Bolinas, 
south thirteen miles, leave every day, except 
week days. 

Leaving, the route is more to the north- 
ward, with Bolinas Bay overthe hills to the 
left. The timber to the right has entirely dis- 
appeared, and there is but little on the left, 
with very little cultivated land. "VVe are 
now approaching a section which is almost 
entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we 
come to Tomales Bay, a portion of w-hich 
is crossed on a long pile bridge, w T here are 
extensive beds of planted oysters, the 
boundaries of which are marked by poles. 
Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- 
cans can often be seen as well as wild 
geese. 



This bay is about twenty miles in 
length, with an average width of one mile. 
Our train runs along on the edge of this 
bay, around rocky points, through spurs 
of the bluffs, and across little inlets for 
about sixteen miles, where the road turns 
sharp to the right, up an arm of the bay. 
In this distance we find the following 
stations: Wharf Point, three miles from 
Olema; Millerton, two miles further, 
and Marsiialls, nine more; then comes 

Hamlet — Here the regular passenger 
trains meet. All these side-track stations 
along the bay are for the accommodation 
of the dairymen living near, who ship 
large quantities of milk and butter to San 
Francisco daily. 

Tomales Point is on the opposite side of 
the bay, which is here only about three 
and a half miles from the ocean. 

Turning to the right, our road follows up 
a narrow little valley around rocky points, 
with high grass-covered hills on each side — 
makes one great rainbow curve, away 
around the head of the valley, and conies 
to a stop at 

Tomales — This station is 55 miles from 
San Francisco. Here the Railroad Com- 
pany have large warehouses for storing 
grain, from which large quantities are 
shipped annually. Tomales consists of a 
few dozen buildings, devoted to merchan- 
dizing, with a surrounding country well 
cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on 
the right, and, in a clear day,/ar beyond 
the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the 
station, the road passes through the fourth 
tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high 
trestle bridge, and then a small inlet from 
the ocean, where we leave Marin county, 
enter Sonoma, and come to 

Valley Ford Station — Here a stage 
leaves daily for Petaluma, eighteen miles 
east. Years ago the section we are now 
entering was the -southern border of the 
great redwood forests. Here the lumber- 
man began his labors, and as years passed, 
step by step he penetrated this great lum- 
ber region, leaving in his track stumps, 
fire, smoke, and finally the clearing, broad, 
rich fields and well-cultivated farms, from 
the productions of wdiich he subsists while 
persistently following up his receding 
prey — the redwoods. 

The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to 
near the station, on the left, Three miles 
further, we come to Bodega Roads, and 
one mile more to Freestone, over a 
heavv grade. Here we come to another 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



219 



great horse-shoe curve, around the head of 
a small valley. First, the road-bed is far 
above, then far beloic, with a deep gorge on 
the left, in which grow madrone, redwood, 
and oak trees. Now we come to a trestle 
bridge, 300 feet long and 137 feet high, 
over a frightful gorge ; and then to the 
Summit Tunnel, 610 feet long, beyond 
which is 

Howard— The principal business at this 
station is burning coke. Passing on, we 
enter "Dutch Bill Canyon," called so in 
early days after Mr. Howard, who there 
wrestled with the big redwoods that it then 
contained. Redwoods now appear on each 
side, as also saw-mills. Streeten Mill 
is passed on the left, then another tunnel — 
there are rive tunnels in all, on the road, 
aggregating 3,850 feet — then a long wood 
shute, and 

Tyrone Mills — Here are extensive saw- 
mills on the left, with side-tracks running 
to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of 
lumber a day. 

Leaving this mill, on a down grade, 
through towering redwoods, 300 feet 
high, we roll down past another large 
mill, on the right, to the Russian River, 
just after passing an unimportant side- 
track of that name. 

The river at this place comes down 
through a perfect forest of towering red- 
woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- 
erage depth of two feet. The train runs along 
on the southern bank, past a beautiful little 
cottage on the right, away up on a high 
spur of the mountains, that projects out 
into the river, and which has been left, as 
it were isolated by the cutting made by the 
Railroad Company in building the road. 
It is one of several country residences be- 
longing to the President of the road. Be- 
yond this point a short distance, is the 
Moscow Mills Station, opposite which 
comes in from the north, Austin Creek, 
abounding in redwoods. A short distance 
further, Russian River is crossed on a 
bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at 
the end of the road at 

Duncan's Mills — Here are located ex- 
tensive saw-mills, in the midst of great for- 
ests of redwoods. The station is 80 miles 
from San Francisco, and consists of one 
large hotel, the Julian— a good station 
building, some shops of the Railroad Com- 
pany, several stores and a dozen or more 
residences, some of which are very good. 
Game of various kinds is abundant, 
such as deer, bears, etc., and some wild 



Fish — w r ell, this is the fisherman's 
paradise. From Duncan's Mills it is six 
miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on 
Russian River, which is near the station, 
also by a good wagon road. Stages leave 
Duncan's Mills daily, except Mondays, for 
the following places: Fort Ross, 16 miles; 
Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; 
Salt Point, 25 miles ; Fisk's Mills, 30 miles ; 
Stewart's Point, 34 miles; Gualala, 44 
miles; Fish Rock, 50 mi!es; Point Arena, 
60 miles; Manchester, 66 miles; Cuffey's 
Cove, 80 miles; Navarra Ridge, 86 miles; 
and Mendocino City, 96 miles ; average tare 
ten cents per mile. 

Along the line of this road are located 
several large saw-mills, which produce for 
market, 200,000 feet of redwood lumber 
daily. 

In conclusion; the ramble about Dun- 
can's Mills will be found by the tourist, a 
very pleasant one, • in fact, the scenery 
along the whole line is very interesting. 
The rapid changes and the great variety- 
are charming, instructive, and when once 
made w r ill ever live in pleasant memory. 

Returning to San Francisco, we start on 
Route 5. 
Southern Pacific Railroad 

General Offices, San Francisco. 

Chas. Crockef, President. 

Geo. Gkay Chiff Engineer. 

A. C. Bassett, General Superintendent. 

J. L. Willcutt, — Gen. Pas. and Ticket Agent. 

This company ow T n the road from 
Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley, and, 
including the Goshen Division, to Los 
Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is 
leased to and operated by the " Central " 
Company. This leaves the Southern, only 
the line from San Francisco to Solidad, 
142 miles, and the Trespinos division of 18 
miles, making 160 miles, over which we 
propose journeying. 

Leaving the depot, which is situated op- 
posite the general office, corner Townsei.d 
and Fourth, the route is south, through the 
city for over four miles, most of the dis- 
tance built up with business blocks, manu- 
factories, large wool warehouses, shops and 
private residences. 

The company's, machine shops — exten- 
sive works — are situated about tw T o miles 
from the depot ; another mile is Valencia 
street, where is a horse-car line to the more 
central part of the city. Then w<e move 
another mile, through some deep cuts and 
high hills on the right, and are at 



220 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Bernal — a small station 4.G miles from 
our starting point. Some gardens and 
vegetable fields now appear, and a short 
distance from the station is the Industrial 
School, on an elevation to the right. 

San Miguel is two miles further, 

among the sand-hills, where are some well- 
cultivated gardens. To the right is Lake 
Mercede and the city water works. 

Continuing along through the hills, 
which in places are close on each side — 
with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- 
tance on the right — down a little valley, 
then through deep cuts, past Colma, a 
side-track, and Baden Bay, all in quick suc- 
cession, we come to the signal station of 
Baden, or as often called "Twelve Mile 
Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of 
Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers 
on the Pacific Coast, resides ; and on Mr. 
Lux's " Twelve Mile Farm " can be found 
at all times, some of the best cattle in the 
State. 

Two miles further, and we are over the 
hills and down on the edge of San Fran- 
cisco Bay, which is on the left, and at 

San Bruno — This station consists of a 
good hotel, and four targets, as it is a 
great resort for shooting at target. The 
targets are on the edge of the bay to the 
left; distances, 200, 500, 800, and 1,000 
yards each. Here the " sports " gather to 
tr}' their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is 
on the right of the road, where all the 
targets are at shorter range, and the shots 
always certain to hit the red. 

Milbra — is the next station, 17 miles 
from San Francisco. To the right of the 
road, half-a-mile distant, is the residence of 
D. O. Mills, President of the Bank of 
California. It will be recognized by the 
two tall towers. A little beyond the station 
is the Milbra Dairy, with large yards and 
buildings. On the left, in the bay, are 
great beds of planted oysters. Soon after 
leaving Milbra, we come to Burlingame, 
designed and laid out by the late Mr. Rals- 
ton in long streets and avenues, extending 
for two miles along the road, and from the 
base of the mountains, on the right, to the 
bay on the left, about another two miles. 
Beside these streets and avenues, are double 
rows of planted trees, most of which are eu- 
calyptus and Monterey cypress. There are 
some beautiful residences here and there 
along the base of the mountains on the 
right. 

Two miles from Milbra, we pass Oak 



Grove, a small station named for the 
grove of oaks near by. 

One peculiarity of this country is: no 
matter how much ground is shaded with 
oaks, it makes no difference with the crops, 
all kinds of which seem to grow equally 
well in the shade and in the sun. 

San Mateo — (pronounced Ma-t-o). Here 
are some of the finest private residences 
and grounds in the State. This town con- 
tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks 
and orchards are everywheke. Stages 
leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of the 
train from San Francisco for Half-Moon 
Bay, 14 miles west; Purissima, 23 miles; 
Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place 
connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon 
Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 
miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles ; average 
fare ten cents per mile. 

Leaving the station, we pass — on the 
right — a beautiful park, and the Young 
Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To 
the left the bay lies close, and the land is 
of little value, until reclaimed, but on the 
right is beauty, spread out with a lavish 
hand. Live oaks are scattered around in 
all directions, with buckeye in the ravines 
coming down from the mountains on the 
the right. Windmills are numerous the 
whole length of the valley. 

Belmont — which is 25 miles from San 
Francisco, comes next. At this station the 
guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont 
to alight to visit his residence. This place 
is located a half-mile to the west, up a 
little valley, just out of sight from the 
railroad. it originally contained about 
100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. 
Ralston, came into possession of Senator 
Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the 
land, including an elegant cottage, to the 
widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, 
the Phelps estate is on the right, and 
double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for 
two miles. The country between the hills 
and the bay is flat, and under a high state 
of cultivation. 

Redwood City — comes next, 3.5 miles 
from Belmont. It is the county seat of 
San Mateo county, and a thriving place. 
It was named from the great redwood 
forest on the west, a large quantity of which 
finds its way to market in the shape of 
lumber, wood and bark, from this station. 
The city is supplied with water from an 
artesian well. The county buildings, 
schools, churches and hotels, are all said 
to be first-class, as well as the weekly pa- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



121 



per, the Times and Gazette. Stages leave 
daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, 
16 miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. 

Passing Fair Oaks, a small station in 
the midst of beautiful residences, sur- 
rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and 
moss-drooping oaks, we come to 

Menlo Park — near which reside a score 
or more of millionaires, including Ex- 
Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. 
Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, 
Mai. llathbone, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, 
and many others. Menlo Park Hotel is 
situated on the right, and is embowered in 
trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, 
leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a 
palatial residence, situated in the center of 
princely grounds, with the most costly sur- 
roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, 
gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little 
further, on the right, comes the 500-acre 
farm of Ex-Gov. Stanford, President of the 
Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home 
of " Occident," and some of the finest 
blooded stock on the Pacific coast. 

Mayfield — a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 
34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated 
in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, 
embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other 
trees. It is 4.9 miles from .Mountain 
View — a small station, so named from the 
extended view which it affords of the 
Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, 
on the east, as well as the whole surround- 
ing country. 
The great oaks add an indescribable beauty 
to this countiy, and grow in great pro- 
fusion, particularly on the Murphy Grant, 
through which we are now passing. This 
grant oi iginally covered some thousands of 
acres, in this, the richest portion of the 
Santa Clara Valley. Murphy's Station — 
for the accommodation of the grant — is lo- 
cated near its center. 

We are now opposite the head of San 
Francisco Bay — on the east — and the little 
town of Alviso, which is noted for its 
strawberries and fruit, as well as being a 
point from which immense quantities of 
produce are shipped on the boats that land 
at its ample wharf. 

We pass on through a section, where 
every foot of land is in a high state of cul- 
tivation, for two miles, and come to 
Lawrence — a small place 3.5 miles from 
the beautiful 

Santa Clara — This is a beautiful and 
quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, 
originally founded by the Jesuits, in 1774. 



It is situated near the center of Santa Clara' 
Valley, one of the loveliest in the world, 
possessing a soil of surpassing richness. 
It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- 
mate, and the excellence and variety of its 
fruits; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- 
growing valley it has no superior. In 
point of improvements, good farm-houses, 
orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, 
equals. 

Churches and schools are numerous ; 
Santa Clara and San Jose — three miles 
apart — are both noted for their educational 
institutions, where some of the finest in 
the State are located. The convent of 
Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the 
State Normal School, and the new building 
of the University of the Pacific, Methodist, 
Female Seminary, and the Catholic Col- 
legiate Institute, stand as monuments to 
attest a people's integrity and worth. 

There are two weekly papers published 
at Santa Clara — the Index and News. 
Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven 
miles ; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- 
gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten 
cents per mile. These springs are resorted 
to by those suffering with pulmonary 
complaints. 

The Bay Coast narrow gauge railroad, 
now building from Alameda, opposite San 
Francisco, to Santa Cruz, distance «6 
miles, passes through Alvarado, quite a 
manufacturing town on the east side of 
the bay, about ten miles west of Niles to 
Santa Clara. The road from Santa Clara 
will soon be in running order; 30 miles 
further to 

Santa Cruz, situated on an arm of 
Monterey Bay, and is often called the 
"Newport" of California, being a noted sum- 
mer resort for sea bathers, who find good 
accommodations in the shape of hotels, 
bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat 
of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; 
connected by rail with the Southern Pa- 
cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton 
eight miles; and by stage, with all adjoin- 
ing towns up and down the coast, and by 
steamer to San Francisco. 

Returning to Santa Clara, we can, if 
we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take 
a carriage for San Jose, and ride over the 
beautiful Alameda Avenue, which is 
bordered on each side with two rows of 
poplar and willow trees, planted by the 
early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years 
ago. 

Behind these trees are elegant cottages, 



222 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, 
containing almost every variety of vege- 
tables, fruits, and flowers. 

By steam cars it is 2.6 miles from Santa 
Clara to 

San Jose City — (Pronounced San O-za) ; 
population, 18,000. This is the county 
seat of Santa Clara county, and is the larg- 
est town in Santa Clara Valley, in popu- 
lation being the fourth in the State. It 
was first settled by the Spanish mission- 
aries, in 1777. The city is lighted with 
gas; the streets are macadamized, and 
ornamented with rows of shade trees on 
each side. Artesian wells, and the " Cali- 
fornia Wind Mill," together with a small 
mountain stream, abundantly supply the 
city with good water. The Alameda, or 
grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far 
the prettiest grove of planted timber in the 
State, and by many people it is claimed 
that San Jose is the prettiest city in the 
State. It is certainly one of the best im- 
proved, and there are none more beautiful. 
Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees ; 
its fine private and public buildings, and 
the delightful climate of the valley, "render 
it a favorite place of summer resort. 

San Jose has numerous church edifices — 
ample public and private schools, hotels, 
and newspapers. The Mercury and In- 
dependent, both daily and weekly; the 
Patriot, daily; and Argus, weekly, are 
published here. The Auzerais, St. James, 
Exchange and Lick, are the principal 
hotels. The city is connected by railroad 
with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San 
Francisco by two lines — the one we came 
on, through the thickly settled and well- 
cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo 
countries ; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- 
tral Pacific via Niles and Oakland. 

The new road to Mt. Hamilton — 20 
miles distant — leaves San Jose, and can be 
seen winding up the side of the mountain, 
on the east. It was for the erection of a 
college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton — 
altitude, 4,400 feet — that the millionaire, 
James Lick, left $150,000 in his will— it 
should be called the Lick High Hamilton 
College. 

Stages leave San Jose daily, for the noted 

New Almaden Quicksilver Mines — 
These mines are very extensive, and should 
be visited by the curious. They were dis- 
covered by an officer in the Mexican ser- 
vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the 
Indians with their faces painted with ver- 
milion, bribed one of them, who told him 



where it was to be found. The following 
year, several English and Mexicans formed 
a company for "working the mines, large 
sums of money were expended, and many 
difficulties had to be overcome; but finally, 
by the introduction of important improve- 
ments, the mines have proved to be very 
valuable. The different mines furnish 
employment for, and support from 1,000 to 
1,500 persons. Nearly all the miners are 
Mexicans. 

It is supposed that these mines were 
known and worked by the native Indians 
of California, long before the country was 
known by white men. They worked them 
to procure the vermilion paint which the 
ore contained, for the purpose of painting 
and adorning their villainous persons, and 
to " swop " with the neighboring tribes. 
Near the mines are the springs, w r here is 
put up the New Almaden Vichy Water, so 
noted for its medicinal qualities. The 
Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles 
distant. 

Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- 
bowered in trees, among which are the 
oak, eucalyptus, poplar, spruce cedar, 
Monterey and Italian cypress, orange, 
pepper, sycamore, and many others. 

Leaving San Jose, the State Normal 
School building is on the left in the center 
of a block, surrounded by beautiful 
grounds. Several miles further on is the 
Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to Mt. 
Hamilton can be plainly seen; it is 22 
miles long and 30 feet wide, with a uni- 
form grade of five feet to the hundred. 

Away to the right, on the side of the 
mountain, marked by a red appearance, is 
a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents 
work. Still further and below, is the New 
Almaden mine, marked by columns of 
steam that are always ascending. 

Coyote Creek is now on our left, in a 
broad, low bottom. The small stations of 
Eden Vale, Coyote and Perrys, are 
soon passed, and 18.8 mites from San Jose, 
we are at 

Madrone— The country passed over is 
well settled, and many fine residences are 
scattered along the valley, which is about 
one mile in width, with 'low rolling hills 
on the west. 

Leaving Madrone, on the right a huge 
sharp cone rises up out of the valley l,0u0 
feet in height. We call it Johnson's 
Peak, named for the enterprising newsman 
of this road. 

Tennants — is four miles further, be- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



223 



yond which is the most magnificent moss 
view that one could conceive. Sycamore 
and moss-drooping oaks are very plentiful, 
reminding one of the appearance of a 
New England apple orchard after a storm 
of snow and rain, where all the limbs and 
boughs are borne down with icicles and 
snow. 

Gilroy — is seven and a half miles from 
Term ant and 80.3 miles from San Francisco ; 
a regular eating station, where trains stop 
twenty minutes for meals, which are very 
good; price, 50 cents. Gilroy contains a 
population of about 2,000, most of whom 
are engaged in agricultural and pastoral 
pursuits. Tobacco is raised in large quan- 
tities, and dairying is made a specialty by 
many of the people. The principal hotels 
are the Southern Pacific and the Williams. 

Stages leave Gilroy for San Fillipe, 10 
miles; Los Banos, 48 miles; and Fire- 
baughs, 80 miles east; fare ten cents per 
mile. Stages run daily to the Gilroy Hot 
Springs, a very attractive resort, 15 miles 
east. From Gilroy it is 2.2 miles to 

Carnadero — a small station where pas- 
senger trains meet, and from which a track 
branches to the left and continues up the 
Santa Clara Valley, 11.8 miles to 

Hollester — a thrifty town of 2,000 in- 
habitants, most of whom are agriculturists. 
From Hollester it is 6.2 miles to Trespinos 
— the end of the track. 

From this point large quantities of 
freight are shipped for the New Idria 
Quicksilver, Picacho and other mines in 
the country, to the south and east. Stages 
run tri-weekly to San Bruno, 25 miles; 
New idria, 65 miles; Picacho, 75 miles; 
fare about ten cents per mile. 

The original route of the Southern 
Pacific railroad was from this point, via 
San Benito Pass to Goshen, in the San 
Joaquin Valley. From Goshen the road is 
built a distance of 40 miles this way, to 
Huron. Whether the link between the two 
divisions will be completed and token, we 
will never tell, till we know. The distance 
across to Huron is, to San Benito Pass, 60 
miles; to Huron, 100 miles. 

Returning to Carnadero, we soon come 
to the great Bloomfield Ranche, which 
takes in many thousand acres, crossing 
the valley and over the mountains, on each 
side. It is the home of Mr. Miller, of Lux 
& Miller, the great cattle men. At Baden, 
twelve miles from San Francisco, we pass 
Mr. Lux's place, the " Twelve Mile Farm." 
On this ranche are kept and fattened great 



numbers of cattle, for the market of San 
Francisco. 

Continuing up the valley, which is here 
narrowed to one mile in width, with low- 
grass-covered hills on each side, we come to 
the residence of Senator Sargent, on 
the right, and a short distance further, 

Sargent Station — in Hie midst of a 
dairy country. Stages leave here for San 
Juan, south, six miles distant, up a little 
valley to the left, distinctly seen a few miles 
further on our way. 

Soon after leaving the station, we turn 
more to the westward, and the little valley 
is completely crowded out by the bluffs, 
and we run along on the bank of Pajaro 
River, up a narrow canyon, and cross the 
line between Santa Clara and Santa Cruz 
county, at the point wmere Pescadero 
Creek comes in on the right. Continuing 
up, between high bluffs, we cross a bridge 
over the Pathro River and are in San 
Benito county, then dive through a tunnel 
950 feet long, and come out into the beauti- 
ful Pajaro Valley, which is nine miles long 
and four wide, a portion of the Aroma 
Grant, once a very extensive one. The 
Santa Cruz Mountains are high, on the 
right, and covered with a dense growth of 
redwoocts. Passing Vega, a signal station, 
we come to 

Pajaro— (pronounced Pad-ro) thirteen 
miles from Sargent's, and 99.4 from San 
Francisco. 

Watsonville — is one mile to the right 
from this station, and contains a popula- 
tion of 4,000, and is a thrifty town, situated 
three miles from Watson's landing, on 
Monterey Bay, where steamers and other 
vessels land regularly. It contains two 
weekly papers, the Pajaronian and the 
Transcript. The Lewis House is the prin- 
cipal hotel. 

From Pajaro, the Santa Cruz, narrow- 
gauge railroad connects with the Southern 
Pacific. This road is 21.15 miles long and 
runs through Watsonville, Aptos, and 
Soquel, to Santa Cruz. (See map, pagel36 .) 
The lumber business is, next to the agri- 
cultural, the most important interest in 
this section of the country. From Pajaro, 
our course will be east of south, to the end 
of the road. 

Rolling down this beautiful valle} r , we 
come to ^Elkhorn Slough, over which our 
road is built on piles for a long distance. 
To the right, down this slough, is Moss 
Landing, nine miles distant, between which 
and a pier, close on our right, a small 



224 



CROFUTT 7 S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



steamboat plies regularly, for the transpor- 
tation of freight and passengers for the 
regular coast steamboats that stop at this 
point. 

We are now running along, over and be- 
side a salt marsh, inhabited by cranes, peli- 
cans, ducks and mud-hens, with peat -bogs 
and stagnant pools for immediate sur- 
roundings, while to the left, a half-mile 
away, is high rolling prairie, covered with 
cattle and sheep, beyond, the long range of 
the Gabilan Mountains, while to the 
far right an occasional glimpse can be had 
of Old Pacific. 

A run of 10.3 miles from Pajaro, and the 
train stops at 

Castroville— one-half mile to the west of 
the railroad; population about 800. The 
town is situated at the northern end of Sali- 
nas Valley, in Monterey county, one of the 
most productive in the State. It is recorded 
in the Agricultural Bureau in Washington, 
that the largest yield of wheat ever known 
was grown in this valley, in 1852, being 102 
bushels to the acre. That year whole fields 
averaged 100 bushels to the acre; an ordi- 
nary crop is from 40 to 50 bushels. In 
1876, Monterey county produced 800,000 
bushels of wheat, 400,000 bushels of barley, 
70,000 bushels of oats, and other productions 
in proportion. Sheep and cattle in large 
numbers are raised. The wool-clip for 
1876 amounted to 1,500,000 lbs.; butter, 
860,000 lbs. ; cheese, 120,000 lbs. ; average 
value of land, $8 per acre. The lands in 
this valley are mostly "safe lands," i. e., 
will raise a crop without irrigation. Emi- 
grant, this is a good place for you to come to. 

To the east, beside the mountains, can be 
seen, at certain points after leaving Cas- 
troville, the little villages of Natividad and 
Sodaville, also the Alisal race-track. 

As we proceed southward, the valley 
widens and appears more beautiful. 

Salinas — is 7.9 miles south of Castro- 
ville, situated to the right of the road, and 
on the east bank of Salinas River, with a 
thriving population of 3,000, and many 
fine stores, hotels, and private residences. 
The Abbott House is the principal hotel, 
and the Index and Democrat are two 
papers published here weekly. 

Stages leave daily for New Republic, 
east, three miles; Natividad, northeast, 
six miles ; fare, ten cents per mile. From 
Salinas a railroad extends nineteen miles 
west to 

Monterey — This place is situated on 
the southern extreme of the bay of Monte- 



rey, the most capacious on the Pacific 
Coast, 136 miles from San Francisco by 
rail, and about 100 by steamer. ] mmedi- 
ately to the westward of the city is Point 
Pinos, jutting out to the northward four 
miles, to meet Point Santa Cruz, another 
long promontory extending from the 
north, between which and the main land — 
land-locked as it were — is the broad bay of 
Monterey. This bay was first discovered 
by Cabrillo in 1542. In 1770, the site was 
occupied by the Jesuits, under the leader- 
ship of Padre Junipero, who, June 3d of 
that year, held the first mass. The bell 
which called the faithful together was 
hung from a tree, the location of which is 
now marked by a cross, erected on the 
centennial day of its celebration, bearing 
the legend, " June 3d, 1770." On the hill, 
near this cross, are the ruins of an old fort, 
near a Mexican fort of later date; and 
higher up the hill is where the Americnn 
fort of 1846 was built, when the Ameri- 
cans seized the country. 

Monterey is a quiet, sleepy old town, 
where every person seems satisfied with 
himself, apparently believing the world is 
completed ; living on in the dreamy self- 
satisfied consciousness that the spirit of 
progress is at an end ; a present tangible 
heaven of eternal sunshine. It is a glori- 
ous place to spend a few weeks; having 
done so, the pleasurable memories of the 
sojourn will ever remain a ray of soft sun- 
shine, while plodding through the cares, 
trials and perplexities of an active business 
life. Monterey — as one might well sup- 
pose — is a favorite resort in the summer 
for the better classes of citizens of the State, 
as well as for tourists, who find ample 
accommodations. 

Returning to Salinas, and starting once 
more for the south, we find this to be the 
widest portion of Salinas Valley, which is 
about 90 miles in length, with an average 
width of eight miles. The valley is situ- 
ated between the Gabilan Mountains, to 
the eastward, and Santa Lucian Range on 
the west, about 20 miles from the Pacific 
Ocean, from the winds of which it is pro- 
tected by the mountain named. 

Chualatc — is tl e next station, 10.9 miles 
from Salinas, and consists of several stores, 
hotels, saloons, and a dozen or more resi- 
dences. Here are cattle pens and shutes, 
indicating that we are in a country where 
cattle are shipped to market; the same 
might be said of Gonzales, a station six 
miles further, only there are a few more 




STATE CAPITOL OF CALIFORNT.V. (See Annex No. 15.) 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



225 




CROSSING THE LOOP OVER TUNNEL NO. 9, TEHACHAPI PASS, 



people, "scratching" the soil, which is 
greatly abused by this shiftless method of 
farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles further, 
we reach the end of the track at 

Solidad — This is a small place of a 
hundred or more inhabitants, with a few 
stores, hotels, saloons, stage-stables, freight- 
warehouses, and some- private residences. 
It is a point from which a large amount of 
freight is shipped to the southward, and 
from which a regular daily line of stages 
runs to the following places: Lowe's, 28 
miles; Solon, 40 miles; Paso Robles 
Hot Springs, 80 miles ; San Louis Obispo, 
110 miles; Arroyo Grande, 125 miles; 
Gaudalupe, 140 miles , Santa Barbara, 220 
miles; San Buena Ventura, 250 miles, 
and Newhall, 300 miles; average fare, 
eight cents per mile- 

To the westward of Solidad, seven miles, 
away up a cosy nook of the Coast Range, 
is situated the Paraiso. Springs, which, it 
is claimed, possess great medicinal qual- 
. 15 



ities, particularly valuable in cases of 
rheumatism, asthma, and kindred diseases. 
We could hear of no analysis of these 
waters, which boil up in close proximity 
to each other. Some are very hot, others 
very cold — but soda, iron, and white sul- 
phur are the principal ingredients. 

Ample hotel accommodations will be 
found at the Springs, where bathing in the 
waters, hunting, fishing, and inhaling the 
pure mountain air can be enjoyed to the 
heart's content. 

In conclusion, this is one of those trips 
where a great diversity of scenery, numer- 
ous objects of interest and the wealth and 
beauties, and the varied productions of the 
State can be seen and contemplated. 

Returning to San Francisco, and before 
leaving again, and for the last time, we 
will refer those of our readers who wish 
to procure other publications treating of 
this country in a more general way to 
Annex No. 51. 



226 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



TIM E TA BLE. 

VISALIA. DIVISION CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

FROM LATHROP TO TULARE 



A. D. Wilder. Div. Supt. 



R. B. Campbell, Asst.Div. Suj)t. 



TOWARDS SUNRISE. 


SAN FRANCISCO TIME. 


TOWARDS SUNDOWN. 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and freight. 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 


Distance 
from San 
Francisco 


STATIONS. 


Altitude. 

....0.... 
....14.... 


Daily 

Express 

1st & 2d el's 

12:40 p m 
12:25 


Daily 
Emigrant 
and freight 


5:66 p m 


4 :00 p m 
4:25 


0.... 

...3.7.... 


Lv....SAN FRANCISCO.... Ar 
Oakland Wharf 


7 :00 a m 








1 :00 am 

1:36 

2:05 

2:25 

3:07 

3:35 

4:30 

5:35 

6:19 

7-00 


8:15* pm 

8:29 

8:40 

8:47 

9:03 

9:14 

9:35 
10:00 
10:16 
10:35 
11:18 
11:33 
11:54 

12:10 am 
12:18 
12:35 

1:00 

1 :23 

1:46 

2:05 

2:20 

2 :50 p m 


.. .82.... 

....88.... 

93 


Lv LATHROP Ar 


....26.... 


8 :20* am 

8:05 

7:55 

7:47 

7:30 

7:20 

7:00 

6:35 

6:19 

5:40 

5:15 ' 

4:58 

4:33 

4:15 

4:06 

3:44 

3:17 

2:53 

2:25 

2:05 

1:50 

1 :20 a m 


10:00 pm 
9 30 






9:03 


....96 . . 
102 


Salida 




8 - 47 




... 91.... 


7:55 


107 






2:27 


115 


....Turlock 




6:35 


126 






5:35 


..132.... 
. 140 .. 






4:55 


Merced 


...171.... 


3:45 


8:15 
8:40 
9:20 
9:53 
10:05 
10:43 


...150.... 
156 




2:58 






2:28 


...166.... 
173 






1:43 






1:08 


176 . 






12:55 


185. 






12:10 pm 
11:25 


195 .. 




...292.... 


12:10 pm 
1:00 
1:40 
2*10 


...204... 
...215... 
...223 ... 
...229 ... 
...239.... 






10:40 






9:50 






9:10 




...278.... 


8:40 


3:00 


Lv TULARE Ar 


...282.... 


7:50 pm 



FROM 



TULARE DIVISION SOUTHERN PACIFIC. 

TULARE TO MOJAVA. 



3:20 p m 
4:10 
f :07 
5:46 
b:43 
7:20 
8:20 
10*00 


2:55 

3:18 am 

3:45 

4:03 

4:30 

4:46 

5:14 

5:45 

6:10 

6:32 

7:05 

7:25 

7:50 

8:18 

8:35 

8:50* am 


...239.... 

250 . 


Lv TULARE Ar 

Tipton 


...282.... 
...267.... 


1:15 
12:50 

12:19 am 
11:58 
11:28 
11:08 
1C:37 
10:00 

9:40 

9:17 

8:47 

8:28 

8:00 

7:32 

7:15 

7 :00* p m 


7:35 am 
6:50 


262 .. 


Aliia 




6:00 


270... 


Delano 


...313.... 


5:23 


282 






4:30 


290 






3:40 


...302 ... 
...317 




...415... 


2:25 


Pampa 


. '. 1290. . . '. 


12:55 


10:50 
11:35 

12:30 a m 
1 "05 


324 .. 




12:10 am 


...330.... 
...338.... 
...343.... 
...350... 
...359... 






11:35 






10:33 






9:55 


1:50 
2-37 


Tehachapia Summit 


..3964.... 


9:05 
8:10 


3:05 


...364.... 
...370.... 


. Nadcau 




7:38 


3:35 am 


Ar MOJAVA Lv 


..2757.... 


7 :05 p m 



* Meals. 



Note Altitude. 



Ho! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees," 
over the "Loop," across the Mojava Des- 
ert, down through Soliclad, and to Los 
Angel e3; then, over the San Barnardino, 
down under the sea, over the great Colorado 
Desert, into Arizona. 



Towards Sunrise. 

Leaving San Francisco, the route is via 
Oakland, Martinez, and Tracy, to 
Lathrop, over the track of the Overland 
line— as described— commencing on page 
197. Just before reaching Lathrop, our 



AND rACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



227 



train leaves the track of the Overland and 
turns to the right, leaving the station build- 
ing between ours and the Overland track. 

At Lathrop our train stops HO minutes 
for supper, and then turns to the right, up 
the Great San Joaquin Valley The 
general direction of our road, for the next 
350 miles, is to the southeast. 

San Joaquin (pronounced San Waw- 
Keen).— This valley embraces portions of 
nine counties, and is larger than many 
kingdoms of the old world, and far richer, 
extending to Yisalia, county seat of Tulare 
county. The amount of grain and stock 
raised in this valley, and the. hundreds of 
smaller ones tributary to it, is almost in- 
credible, for a country so recently settled. 
The valley is about 200 miles in length, 
and averages about 30 miles in width ; 
comprising near 6,000,000 acres of the 
richest, agricultural lands in the State, 
besides near a million acres of tuiles and 
salt marsh lands, which, when reclaimed, 
prove to be the most fertile lands in the 
w T ork 5 .. 

Mora no — is 5.5 miles- from Lathrop, 
important only, as many ether stations on 
this road are, as a shipping point for 
grain, with side-track and great storage 
warehouses. 

Bipon — comes next, 4 7 miles further, 
near which the Stanislaus River is crossed, 
and three miles more comes 

Salida — another small station, with 
accommodations for shipping and storing 
grain. From Salida it is 6.8 miles to 

Modesto — the county seat of Stanis- 
laus county. It was laid out in 1870, and 
now contains a population of over 1,500, 
while the county contains about 11,000 
Agriculture is the chief occupation of the 
people 

Leaving Modesto, we cross the Tou- 
lumna River, and in 4.6 miles reach Ceres, 
a small, unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles 
from Turlocks, another small station, 
101 miles from Cresset, reached just after 
crossing the Mercede River. Continuing 
on 6.7 miles, Atwater is reached. At 
this station, as well as those we have passed 
are large buildings for storing grain, 
as grain-raising — wheat — is the only occu- 
pation of the settlers. From Atwater it is 
7.5 miles to one of the most important 
places so far on the road, 

Mercede — the county seat of Mercede 
county ; population about 3,000 ; has many 
fine buildings, including a $75,000 court 
house and a large first-class hotel, the El 



Capitan, Col. Bross, proprietor. There are 
two weekly papers published in Intercede, 
the Argus and the Express. 

From Mercede it is ten miles east, to the 
foot-hills and thirty to the western edge of 
the valley, at the base of the Contra Costa 
Range. 

The county of Mercede is the richest in 
the valley; it had 360,700 acres of land 
under cultivation in 1876, which yielded a 
little over 4.500,000 bushels of wheat, be- 
sides large quantities of barley, rye, corn, 
peas, beans, potatoes, hay, tobacco, cotton 
and many other kinds of crops The 
county contains a population of 65,000, 
most of whom are tilling the soil. In this 
county was raised the finest cotton in the 
State. The value of these lands ranges 
from $2.50 to $10 per acre. 

The game is plentiful in the river bot- 
toms and along the foot-hills. Irrigating 
crmais convey w y aterover a great portion of 
the land. Some of these canals are quite 
extensive ; one, the San Joaquin & King's 
River Canal is 100 miles long, 68 feet wide 
and six feet deep. 

For several yt ars the greater portion of 
the travel for Yo-Semite Valley and the big 
tree groves took stages at Mercede, passing 
over the route, via Coulterville or Mari- 
posa, but a new route (see map, page 186) 
has been laid out from Madera. 33 miles 
further south, which, it is claimed, makes 
the distance by stage much shorter, and 
over a better road However, we shall 
give both routes in Annex No 53, and 
tourists can decide which they will take. 
Should they go in on one and out on the 
other route, little of the scenery will be 
overlooked. 

Mariposa— count)' seat of Mariposa 
county, is 45 miles east, reached by stage 
from Mercede. This town contains about 
1,000 inhabitants Once it was noted for 
its rich placer mines, but now quartz 
mining is the principal occupation of the 
people. In Bear Valley are the mills and 
mines (or a portion of them) belonging to 
the " Las Mariposa Grant,-' or the Fremont 
estate, as it is usually called. The Benton 
mills are on the Mercede River, about two 
miles from the town, reached by a good 
dug road, down a very steep mountain In 
Mount Ophir and Princeton, mining towns 
near by, are large quartz mills, belonging 
to the estate and extensive min- s. 

Leaving Mercede, it is 9.9 miles to 
Plainsburg — a small station near 
the crossing of Mariposa River, beyond 



228 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



which the Conchilla River is crossed, and 
Minturn is reached 6.4 miles from Plains- 
burg, in the extreme western edge of Fresno 
county. For a long distance the foot-hills of 
the Sierras on the left have appeared to be 
close and very rugged. The peaks of Mt. 
Lyell and Ritter loom up on the left, full 
80 miles away, and a little further south- 
ward Mts. Goddard, King, Gardner, 
Brewer, Silliman, Tyndall and others can 
be distinctly seen with their summits 
covered with snow. 

Berenda— is reached 9.5 miles from 
Mintuvn soon after which we cross the 
Fresno River, and many broad, sandy, dry 
creeks, and, 7.5 miles more, come to 

Madera— This is a busy town ot 
about 300 population. Here we find a 
large " V " flume, 53 miles long, for float- 
ing lumber down from the saw-mills in the 
mountains at the end of the flume. It was 
completed in 1876, and does an immense 
business. 

From Madera, a new road has been 
completed into the Yo-Semite Valley, via 
Fresno Flats, through Fresno and Mari- 
posa big tree groves. For map of route, 
see page 136 , and for description of route, 
Annex No. 53. 

i No visitor to this coast ever thinks ot 
leaving it without viewing the wonderful. 

Yo-Semite Valley and the Big 
Trees — The grandest scenery on the 
American Continent, if not in the world, 
is to be seen in the valley of the Yo- 
Semite, (pronounced Yo-Sem-i-te; by the 
Indians, Yo-Ham-i-te). This valley was 
discovered by white men in March, 1851, 
first by Major Savage. It is about eight 
miles long, and from one-half to a mile in 
width. The Merced River enters the head 
of the valley by a series of waterfalls, 
which — combined with the perpendicular 
granite walls which rise on either side 
from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green 
valley and sparkling waters beneath — pre- 
sents a scene of beauty and magnificenc i 
unsurpassed, except, possibly, in child- 
hood's fairy dreams. 

Here is majesty — enchanting — awe-in- 
spiring — indescribable! — the lofty cloud- 
capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes ; the 
towering, perpendicular granite cliffs and 
fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a 
wondering admiration impossible to de- 
scribe. 

We have often desired to take our read- 
ers with us, in a pen and pencil descrip- 
tion of this most remarkable valley, and 



the " Big Trees," but in view of our lim- 
ited space, the magnitude of the under- 
taking, together with our conscious in- 
ability to do justice to the subject, we have 
contented ourselves by giving a number of 
beautiful illustrations, which include the 
great Yo-Semite Falls, Nevada Falls, Mir- 
ror Lake, ana a map of the routes and the 
surrounding country, showing the rela- 
tive position of the valley, trees, and ad- 
joining towns to the railroad. 

The most notable falh in Yo-Semite 
Valley are: the Ribbon, 3,300 feet fall; 
the Upper Yo-Semite, 2,634 feet; the 
Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the 
Lower Yo-Semite, 600; the Vernal, 350 
feet. The South Dome is 6,000 feet high ; 
the Three Brothers, 4,000 ; Cap of Liberty, 
4,240; Three Graces, 3,750; North Dome, 
3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 
3 300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral 
Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200; 
and the Royal Arches, 1.800 feet high. 

The Fresno Grove of Big trees has not 
heretofore been accessible to the tourist, 
and will therefore form a new and attract- 
ive feature to this modern route. Like 
the Mariposa Grove, it is divided into two 
groves, usually called the Upper and Lower, 
about one mile apart, and covering a mile 
square each — together they contain from 
800 to 900 trees of the Sequoia Gigantea of 
all sizes. One in the Upper Grove meas- 
ures 88 feet in circumference 6 feet from 
the ground. In the Lower Grove there is 
one that is 95 feet in circumference 3 feet 
from the ground. 

From Madera, we find a grazing country ; 
large herds of sheep abound. 

The old Fresno placer mines are to the 
eastward, along tne foot-hills, but little 
is being done with them, by the whites; 
the Chinese are working them over, as they 
are many of the abandoned placers 
throughout the State. 

Borden — on Cottonwood Creek, is 
the next station. This place is 2.8 miles 
from Madera, with about 100 population. 
Here irrigating ditches appear on each 
side, and much of the land is under culti- 
vation. Nine miles further comes Syca- 
more, a side-track of little account, just 
at the crossing of the San Joaquin River, 
which is here a small stream, with very 
little water. The country is now quite 
flat, with many little round mounds from 
ten to thirty feet in diameter, and from 
two to five feet in height. They present 
a very peculiar appearance, somewhat re- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



229 



sembling a prairie dog town, only much 
larger, and without the hole in the top. 

From Sycamore it is 9.8 miles to 

Fresno — the county seat of Fresno 
county, a county the most diversified in 
the State, where land can be purchased for 
from $3.00 to $10 per acre. The town of 
Fresno has a population of about 800 , has 
a $60,000 court-house, some good business 
blocks, two weekly newspapers — the Ex- 
positor and Review — and is a thrifty, grow- 
ing place. The soil about the town is 
largely clay, producing well when irri- 
gated, but never a seed without. 

A most beautiful view is here to be ob- 
tained of the mountains on the left; the 
principal peaks rise from 12.000 to 14,000 
feet above this valley, covered with snow 
the year round, Planted timber appears 
at places, and some of the private resi- 
dences are surrounded by trees, mostly 
eucalyptus. 

A stage line runs to Centreville, seventeen 
miles east. Several schemes are in hand 
for building large irrigating canals, taking 
the water from the San Joaquin and King's 
rivers, which, when completed, will be of 
great benefit to this people. 

To the southwest, three and a half miles, 
is located the California Colony of about 
125 families The colony's land is regu- 
larly laid out for a town, with 40 acres of 
ground for each family. The canal that 
supplies water to the colony is crossed 
about five miles after leaving Fresno. 
Little of the land along here lying near the 
road is cultivated, but when the irrigating 
canals spoken of are completed, they v/ill 
all be found occupied and yielding large 
crops. 

From Fresno it is 9.6 miles to 

Fowler— a small station where trains 
seldom stop, there being only half-a-dozen 
buildings— so we roll on 10.5 miles fur. 
ther to 

Kingsbury— where there are several 
stores, and about one dozen buildings. 

All along this valley numerous wind- 
mills are in operation, for irrigating and 
domestic purposes, that raise abundance of 
good water from a depth of from fifteen to 
forty feet. Soon after leaving Kingsbury, 
the road is built on an embankment which 
extends to King's River, which is crossed 
on a long trestle bridge. 

This river rises in the high Sierras, to 
the northeast, and after reaching this val- 
ley, has a broad, sanjcly bottom, is very 
crooked, its course being marked, far 



above and below, with trees and willows 
which grow thickly along its bank. King's 
River, where the railroad crosses it, is the 
boundary line, beyond which lies the 
county of Tulare. 

Sheep ranches, fenced fields— some very 
large — are now noticeable extending to the 
right and left — well we don't know how 
far, as the valley hereabout is full 40 miles 
in width, and sheep and fences, and fences 
and sheep, extend as far as the eye can 
distinguish the appearance of the land, the 
soil of which is clay and sand, in places 
somewhat alkaline. Cattle are also 
raised to some extent in the foot-hills, and 
pens and shutes for shipping are to be 
seen at many of the stations on the road. 

The next station is Cross Creek, 8.1 
miles from Kingsburg, and 5 8 miles from 

Goshen- Here we come to the South- 
ern Pacific railroad — Goshen Division — 
the track of which could be seen on the 
right, just before rea^hingthe station. This 
division is only completed 40 miles, and is 
designed, eventually, to connect with the 
line extending towards it from Gilroy, 
which is now completed to Trespinos 100 
miles south of San Francisco, referred to 
on page 223 

The stations on the Goshen division are- 
Hanford, 12.9 miles from Goshen-, Le- 
moor, eight miles further; Heinlen, 1.6 
miles, and 17.5 more to 

Huron — whole distance, 40 miles from 
Goshen , distance from Huron to Trespi- 
nos, 100 miles. This division runs through 
what is known as the " Mussel Slough " 
country, a section where the land is very 
rich, adjoining Tulare Lake, on the north, 
whei- the yield of all kinds of crops is 
marvelous Reports say some of these 
lands have yielded as high as $250 per 
acre in a singb year; that jive crops of 
Alfalfa a year is common, and vegetables — 
well, wo will never tell you — the yield is 
immense! two hundred pound pumpkins, 
eight feet in circumference ; potatoes twelve 
pounds in weight, and cornstalks 20 feet 
high, are some of the figures The price 
of land ranges from $20 to $100 per acre. 

At Goshen, a track branches off to the 
left, on which cars are run seven miles to 

Visalia — the county seat of Tulare 
county. It contains about 1,600 inhabi- 
tants, and is situated in the midst of the 
most fertile land in the State, and on the 
Kaweah River. The country round about 
presents to the eye a beautiful appearance. 
Large oaks cover the plain in every di- 



230 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



rection, and orchards, gardens, vineyards, 
and well-cultivated fields are to be seen on 
every hand. Visalia is the center of the 
rich section once known as the "Four 
Creek Country." 

The town boasts of a $75,000 court-house, 
some good stores, gas-works, several big 
saw-mills, six hotels, three weekly news- 
papers — the Delta, Times, and Iron Age — 
one bank, a flouring mill, a normal school, 
and a number of public schools, and 
churches of various denominations. Stages 
run from Visalia to Glenville, 65 miles. 

From Goshen, Yisalia is entirely ob- 
scured from view by the tall oaks that 
abound in this section of the country on 
every side. These oaks are old and ragged, 
many are fast decaying, and when gone, 
the country will be nearly bare, as there 
are few young trees growing to take their 
places. 

At Goshen, is the end of the Visalia 
division of the " Central," and the com- 
mencement of the Tulare Division of the 
Southern Pacific — operated under a lease 
by the " Central " company. Although 
this is the nominal end of divisions, all 
changes, usual at such stations, are made 
10.5 miles further at 

Tulare — This is a new town, as it 
were, built up under the stimulating in- 
fluences of a railroad point where are lo- 
cated extensive shops, round house, ware 
houses, and station buildings, incidental to 
its being the end of divisions. The town 
contains about 500 population, and is situ- 
ated in the midst of a broad plain about 
20 miles east of Tulare Lake, and is a 
thriving town. It is a point from which 
large amounts of freight are shipped on 
wagons, to the adjoining country, and 
where wool in great quantities, is brought 
for shipment to San Francisco. 

The company's shops and grounds at 
this place — as is the case in some other lo- 
calities — are surrounded w ith rows of beau- 
tiful trees, chief of which is the "blue- 
gum." These trees, from a distance, give 
the place more the appearance of grounds 
surrounding some palatial residence, than 
where several hundred men are employed 
manipulating iron. These grounds are 
also covered with green sward, which is 
watered when necessary, by long hose con- 
nected with the works. 

Soon after leaving Tulare, we cross Deep 
and Tulare creeks, both narrow streams with 
steep banks, rich soil, and lined with trees ; 
the land is covered with a thick growth ot 



short gra<=s. Passing the neigborhood of 
these creeks, the country seems to suddenly 
change, and at 

Tipton— 10.4 miles from Tulare, pre- 
sents a barren appearance. To the right, 
left and front, sheep abound, but not a tree 
or shrub. Five miles beyond Tipton, are 
groves of eucalyptus trees, immense num- 
bers of which are on both sides of the 
road. The lands here, that are irrigated at 
all, are supplied with windmills. Twelve 
miles from Tipton comes 

Alila— just after crossing Deer Creek. 

Tulare Lake, is about seven miles west 
of this station, and is a body of water cov- 
ering an area of about 7,000 square miles, 
is nearly round, or 30 miles long by *5 
miles in width, in which fish in great 
varieties abound, as do ducks, geese, and 
other waterfowl. 

Owens Lake — another large sheet of 
water, but not as large as Tulare by about 
one-fourth— is 78 miles from Alila, in a 
northeasterly direction. 

Passing on over White River, 8.3 miles, 
we come to Delano, a place of a half- 
dozen buildings, just in the edge of Kern 
county. The country along here is treeless 
and not very inviting. From Delano it is 
11.8 miles to Poso, and 11.8 miles more to 

ILerclo — To the southwest, about 40 
miles, are located the Buena Vista Oil 
Works, in a section of country where 
great quantities of oil are found in holes 
and ditches in the ground, where it is now 
waiting for enterprise to sink wells, build 
tanks for saving and marketing, when it 
will yield immense returns. This oil 
region is about eight miles by three in 
area. 

Passing on about nine miles, we come to 
Kern River, which we cross on a long 
trestle bridge. This river is one of the 
largest flowing from the Sierras, and even 
in a dry season, carries a large amount of 
water. 

Summer — is the next station reached, 
12.4 miles from Lerdo. This is a very 
busy place of about 250 population, it 
being the distributing point for a large 
amount of freight. To the westward, one 
and a half miles, and connected by "buses" 
hourly, is 

Bakersfield — This town is the county 
seat of Kern county, and contains a popu- 
lation of about 800. It is situated at the 
j unction of the two branches of Kern River, 
has a $35,000 court house, a bank, several 
hotels, a flouring-mill and two weekly 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



231 




BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF THE LOOP, TEHACHAPI PASS. 



newspapers, the Courier-Califomian and 

the Gazette. Kern Lake is 14 miles south 
of west from Bakersfield, and is about seven 
miles long by four wide. Six miles fur- 
ther is Buena Vista Lake, some larger. 
Around these lakes, and Tulare Lake, the 
land is exceedingly rich. 

Kern Valley, in which Bakersfield and 
these lakes are situated, is one of the 
richest in the State, being composed almost 
wholly of sedimentary deposits. Vege- 
tables grow to fabulous proportions, the 
soil being of the same nature as that in the 
"Mussel Slough Country" before named. 

The irrigating canals are very extensive 
in this country, some over 40 miles in 
length, with a" varied width of from 100 
to 275 feet, eight feet deep, costing $100,000. 
Besides the "irrigating canals, there are 
many farms that are irrigated by wells and 
wind-mills. There is one ranche, nine 
miles from Bakersfield, that contains 7,000 
acres, on which are two flowing artesian 
wells, of seven inches bore, one 260 and the 
other 300 feet deep. From these wells the 
water rises twelve feet above the surface, 
and discharges over 80,000 gallons per day. 

On this ranche there are over 150 miles 
of canals and irrigating ditches 32 miles 



of hog-tight board fence; 4,000 acres are 
under" cultivation, 3,000 of which are in 
alfalfa, from which four and six crops a 
year are cut. Nearer Bakersfield, the same 
party, Mr. H. P. Livermore, has another 
large ranche, with 500 acres in alfalfa, and 
3,000 in wheat and barley. On these 
ranches are 8,000 sheep, 4.000 stock cattle, 
300 cows, 350 horses, 100 oxen, 70 mules 
and 1,500' hogs. The same party makes all 
his own reapers, mowers harvesters, plows, 
harrows, cultivators and threshing ma- 
chines -everything in use on the place, 
except steam engines. He has one plow, 
the " Great Western," which is said to be 
the largest in the world. It weighs some- 
thing over a ton, and is hauled by 80 oxen, 
cutting a furrow five feet wide and three 
feet deep, and moving eight miles a day. 
Another plow called "Sampson," is used 
for ditching, and requires 40 mules to 
work it. 

Another party in the county has 40,000 
sheep, 2,000 acres in alfalfa, and raises 
60,000 bushels of grain. Another poor fel- 
low raised, in 1877, 84,000 lbs. of pumpkins 
and sweet potatoes ; some of the former 
weighed 210 pounds, and of the latter, 
some 15^ lbs. While attending to these 
little vegetables, he would occasionally 



232 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



look after a small band of sixteen thousand 
sheep. 

But enough of this. We could fill our 
book with these and many other astonish- 
ing figures. " Well," you will say, " these 
California farmers should be contented and 
happy men." One would think so, but 
they are not. They are the most inveterate 
grumblers of any class of people in the 
world. All Californians will, in the inter- 
vals between grumbles, express the opinion 
that there is no place under the blue canopy 
of heaven so good for a white man to live 
in as California. Ah, well! are they cor- 
rect? Personally, were it necessary, our 
affirm could be forthcoming. 

Returning to Summer, twelve miles, 
brings us to a small place called Pampa, 
an I 7.3 miles more to 

Caliente— Since leaving Summer, the 
grade has increased ; the valley has been 
gradually narrowing by the closing in of 
the mountain ranges on each side, leaving 
only a narrow strip of land. Nearing this 
station, it still more contracts, until a deep 
canyon is reached, in the mouth of which 
is located Caliente, surrounded by towering 
cliffs. There are several stores, one hotel 
and a large station and freight warehouse 
at this pi ace. A large amount of freight is 
re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the 
surrounding country. Stages leave this 
station daily for Havilah, 25 miles ; Kern- 
ville, 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per 
mile. These stages carry passengers, mails 
and express. Tourists should now note 
the elevations; Caliente is 1,290 feet above 
sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train 
will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, 
to an altitude of 3,964 feet, an average of 
over 106 feet to the mile. Within this dis- 
tance we shall find some of the grandest 
scenery on the whole line ; will pass through 
seventeen tunnels, with an aggregate 
length of 7,683.9 feet, and then "over the 
loop," one of the greatest engineering feats 
in the world ; feat where a railroad is like a 
good Roman Catholic — made to cross itself. 
But here, the difference is in favor of the 
railroad, as these Californians will always 
be a l-e-e-tle ahead ; it does its crossing on a 
run, upgrade, toward heavin- [Any design 
to indicate the route of the good Catholic id 
disclaimed.] See illustrations on pasres 
225 and 231. 

Away up the canyon, the grade of the 
road can be seen at a number of places 
where it winds around the points of pro- 
jecting mountain spurs, from which points 



we will soon be able to look down upon 
Caliente. 

Leaving the station, our route will be 
found illustrated on page 231. Caliente 
is at the foot of the mountains, at the ex- 
treme further end of the dotted line, which 
indicates the course of the road, and shows 
its windings, the Loop and the surrounding 
country, on a fiat surface. As we ascend 
the narrow canyon, the road gradually 
commences to climb the side of the c lifts 
on the right, leaving the bed of the canyon 
far below, on the left. Up, up, around 
rocky points and the head of small ravines, 
over high embankments, through deep 
cuts, and tunnels " One " and " Two," a dis- 
tance of 5.3 miles from Caliente, we arrive at 

Beal ville— This is a small station 
named in honor of General Beal. late 
minister to Austria, who owned 200,000 
acres of land in this county. 

Oaks, cedar and spruce trees are to be 
seen in the gorge's and on the mountain 
side, where a sufficient soil is left between 
the rocks and an occasional shrub of the 
manzanita, along the road. Continuing 
our climb, the ravines are deeper at every 
turn ; tunnels No. three, four and five are 
passed through, each revealing in its turn, 
new wonders and rapid changes. No. five 
tunnel is the longest on this '' Pass," after 
passing which and No six tunnel, the can- 
yons on the left become a fearful gorge. 

Just after emerging from the sixth tun- 
nel, by looking away down the canyon, 
Caliente can be seen, and at the rounding 
of nearly every mountain spur for some 
miles furlher. Continuing our climb, 
winding around long rocky points and the 
head of deep ravines, twisting and turning 
to gain altitude, the scenery is wondrous in 
its rapid changes. The old Los Angeles 
and San Francisco wagon road can be 
seen in places, where it. too, winds around 
the side of the mountain, and in others, 
along the little ravines and larger canyons. 

The opposite mountains now loom up in 
huge proportions, rocky, peaked and rag- 
ged, a full thousand feet above our heads, 
and double that amount above the bottom 
of the canyon below. Soon after passing 
tunnels seven and eight ; agai n we look down 
from dizzy heights into fearful, fearful 
chasms. Up a long curve to the right, and 
we are at a point where the mountains, 
from ten to twenty miles to the south and 
westward can be seen, the peaks of many 
covered with snow. 

BLeene— is reached 8.3 .miles from 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



233 



BealviDe. This station is not an impor- 
tant one, and trains do not always stop, but 
pass on, across two bridges in quick suc- 
cession, many deep gravel-cuts, and then, 
after curving to the right, we approach 
the " Loop " and tunnel "No. nine. Passing 
through this tunnel, we start on the grand 
curve around the " Loop," and soon find our- 
selves over the tunnel and in the position 
of the train as illustrated on page 225. 

This "Loop" is 340 miles "from San 
Francisco, is 3,795 feet in length, with 
an elevation of 2,956 feet at the lower 
and 3,034 feet at the upper track, making 
a difference between tracks, of 78 feet. 

Leaving the u Loop," our train continues 
to climb and curve, first to the left, then 
to the right, and after passing through two 
more tunnels, Nos. 10 and 11, comes to 

Gerard — a station 5.4 miles from 
Keene, more in name than fact. Here 
the old Tehachapi Pass stage road ap- 
pears. The mountains are not as high 
above us, but are rough, broken, and 
ragged, covered in many places with 
stunted, scrubby pines and cedars. Rolling 
on, we pa s s through, in quick succession, 
tunnels Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, be- 
sides a number of short bridges, and come 
to more open ground; pass Graceville, 
once an old stage station — on the right, 
and 6.4 miles from Gerard arrive at 

Tehacliapi Sum in it— elevation, 
3,964 feet— the highest on the road. This 
station consists of one store, a hotel, tele- 
graph office, and half-a-dozen buildings. 
To the southeast about five miles distant, 
a marble quarry is reported, of good 
quality. The station is situated on a high 
grassy plateau, of a few thousand acres, 
with high mountain ranges to the east and 
west, and although near" 4,000 feet in alti- 
tude the climate is so mild and agree- 
able that some years the crops are very 
good, and grazing excellent. Many sheep 
are to be seen in the valley and on the 
hills which are covered with fine grass. 

Leaving the summit, we run along this 
plateau for a few miles, and then commence 
a gradual descent towards the Mojava 
Desert. To the right is a small lake — dry 
in summer — where salt can be shoveled up 
by the wagon load. About eight miles 
from the Summit, the little valley down 
which w T e have been rolling, narrows to a 
few hundred feet with high canyon walls 
on each side. 

Cameron — is the first station from 
Summit, 9.2 miles distant, of little account. 



Near this station we find the first of the 
sDecies of cactus, as illustrated on page 
237. In this country they are called the 

Yucca Palm — These trees grow quite 
large, sometimes attaining a diameter of 
from two to three feet, and a height of from 
40 to 50 feet. They are peculiar to the Mo- 
java Desert, where they grow in immense 
numbers, presenting the appearance, at a 
distance, of an orchard of fruit trees. 
Everything is said to have its uses, and 
this cactus, or palm— apparently the most 
worthless of all things that grow, is being 
utilized in the manufacture of paper, and 
with very good results. One mill is al- 
ready in operation at Ravena, and consid- 
erable shipments have been made. The 
supply of "raw material" is certainly 
abundant, and if the quality of the paper 
is as good as reported, the Mojava Desert 
may "be able to show cause why it was 
created. 

Leaving Cameron, our train speeds along 
lively, and 5.2 miles we come to 

Nadean — soon after emerging from 
the canyon. It is a side-track surrounded 
by sage-brush, sand hills and cactus. Aw T ay 
to the left are several lakes, dry the greater 
portion of the year, but having the appear- 
ance of water at all times, owing to the 
water being very salt, and leaving a thick 
deposit on the bed of the lake when dry. 

From Nadeau, it is 5.6 miles to the end 
of the Tulare division, at 

Mojava — (Pronounced Mo-ha-vey.) 
At times, the " Mojava Zephyr " is any- 
thing but a gentle zephyr, vet, by using 
both hands, any person of ordinary strength 
can keep their hat on. The surroundings 
of this i>l ace are not very beautiful, situ- 
ated as it is on a desert ; but for its size, it 
is a busy place. It is a regular eating 
station where trains stop half an hour, and 
good meals are served, at the Mojava 
House, close to the depot — on Main St. 
The place consists of several stores, one 
hotel, large station building and freight 
warehouse, a 15-stall round-house, a repair 
and machine shop and about a dozen pri- 
vate residences. 

The water used at the station comes in 
pipes from Cameron station, eleven miles 
north. A large amount of freight is re- 
shipped from this station on wagons to 
Darwin, 100 miles, and Independence, 168 
miles, in Inyo county — to the northeast — 
on the east side of the -Sierra Nevada 
Mountains. Returning, these, wagons are 
loaded with bullion from the mines. The 



234 



CROFTJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



TIME TA BLE, 

LOS ANGELES DIVISION. 

MOJAVA TO LOS ANGELES. 



E. E. 


Hewitt, Assistant Su 


perintendent. 










TOWARDS SUNRISE. 


SAN FRANCISCO TIME. 


TOWARDS SUNDOWN. 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and freight. 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCl's 


Distance 
from San 
F'ncieco 


STATIONS. 


Altitude. 


Daily 

Express, 

lst&2dCTs 


Daily 

Emigrant 

and Ireight. 


4:^0 * a in 
4:81 


9:10* a m 

9:27 

9:44 
10:10 
10:35 
11:06 
11:20 
11:61 
12:31 pm 

12:50 
1:05 
1:35 
1 :55 p m 


..370... 
...376... 


Lv ttMOJAVA Ar 


... 2751 
....2555.. 


6:30 * pm 

6:1 3t 

5:54 

5:26 

4:54 

4:14 

4:00 

3:24 

2-.?8 

2:20 
2:05 
1:35 
1:15 pm 


6:15* pm 
5:50t 


4 -50 


...384... 




....2315.. 


5:25 


5:30 


...395... 




...2350.. 


4:40 


6 -25 


...405... 




....2823.. 


4:00 


7:15 


...415-... 




....3211.. 


3:15 


7:35 


...419... 




....2350.. 


2:55 


8:20 


. 427... 




....1681.. 
....1152.. 
....1338.. 


2:15 


9 -23 


...440... 




1:20 




. ...441 . . . 






9.50 


...444... 
...449... 


S. F. Tunnel 


....1469.. 


12:50 


10:10 




....1066.. 


10:20 p m 
11:15 


11:15 


...462... 


Sepul veda 


.. . 461.. 


11:55 am 


....70... 


Ar ULOS ANGELES Lv 


... 265. 


10:35 am 



t Day Telegraph. % Day and Night Telegraph. * Meal 



Note Elevations. 



Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do most 
of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of 
animals. 

Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, 
carrying passengers, mails and express to 
Darwin, 100 miles ; Cerro Gordo, 125 miles ; 
Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 
168 miles to the northeast; fare, 14 cents 
per mile. 

Mojava is the commencement of the Los 
Angeles Division. The proposed route of 
the Southern Pacific railroad — as successor 
of the rights granted to the old Atlantic 
and Pacific Co , to the Colorado River, at 
the Needles — diverges at this point, and 
runs due east. The lowest point of the 
Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- 
vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 
133 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, 
the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the 
summit of Grauite Pass. The crossing of 
the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles 
east from Mojava. 

Leaving Mojava, our course is south, 
over the desert, from which rise great 
numbers of round buttes ; they are of all 
sizes, from a half-acre at the base, to 
several acres; from one hundred to five 
hundred feet in height. Most of these 
buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or 
worn out bv the elements into small 



ravines, from summit to base, presenting a 
peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, 
are very numerous. 

Passing Gloster, 6.6 miles from Mo- 
java, where there is not even a side-track, 
and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at 

Sand Creek — where trains seldom 
stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage 
Lake, which looks like water, but is 
mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- 
tion of this remarkable phenomena, see 
page 159.) 

Solidad Mountain can now be seen on 
our right, through which our road finds a 
way, but where and how, does not appear. 
Large numbers of sheep range over these 
plains at times, and appear to thrive. 

From Sand Creek, it is eleven miles to 
Lancaster, a side-track, and 10.9 miles 
further we come to 

Alpine — For the last twenty miles 
the palms have been very numerous, but 
we shall soon leave them and the desert. 
Scrub cedar, sand cuts — some very deep — 
are now in order, while rapidly climbing 
up to the summit of the Solidad Pass, 
which we reach four miles from Alpine, 
crossing it at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and 
then descend to 

Acton — a distance of 9.7 miles from 
Alpine. This is an unimportant station 



AX I) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



235 



near the head of the infamous Solidad 
Canyon, known as the "Robbers' Roost." 
This canyon is a deep gorge, with 
rugged, towering mountain cliffs rising 
on each side, in places from 500 to 2,000 
feet above the bed of the canyon, the 
fronts of which look as though they had 
been slashed by the hand of the great 
Architect, from summit to base, into nar- 
row, deep ravines, and then left, present- 
ing as wild, gloomy and dismal gorges as 
the most vivid imagination can conceive. 
These, with the dense growth of pines, 
cedar and shrubs, make the mountains 
almost impenetrable, and all that the most 
w r ary villain could desire. 

The canyon is about 25 miles in length, 
inhabited mostly by Mexicans. It was the 
headquarters and home of the noted 
Vasques, and his robber band, who was 
hung at San Jose, March 19, 1875. Later, 
a band of a dozen or more raided Caliente, 
binding and gaging all who came in their 
way, and after loading their riding ani- 
mals with all they could carry, returned to 
this their rendezvous. By a shrewd plan, 
five of the number were captured, and 
lodged in jail at Bakersfield, from which 
they were taken by the citizens and hung 
without much expense to the county. But 
with all their devilment, the trains and 
railroad property have always been secure. 
At the next station, the brother of this 
noted chief resides, against whom, as we 
understand, there stand no accusations. 

Passing on down, the can} r on widens, and 
cottonwood, sycamore and a few oaks and 
willows line the little creek, which ripples 
over the sands. Mining, to some extent, 
is carried on by the Mexicans living here, 
but in a primitive way, using arastras, with 
water, horse, hand, and, in three cases, 
steam power. 

Ravena — is the next station, 3.7 miles 
from Acton. Here are located a village of 
several dozen log, sod and stone houses, be- 
longing to the Mexicans, and the paper 
mill, before alluded to, as utilizing the 
yucca palm for making paper. 

We w T ere told at this place that "moss 
agates and grizzly bears abound," but just 
why the two should be coupled together, 
w r e are not informed. 

About one mile below Ravena, on the 
left, away up on the side of the mountain, 
GOO feet above bur train, is a huge rock, 
called George Washington, from the fact 
that it bears a striking likeness to the 
"father of his country," who, it seems 



has left his impress all over his country. 
Continuing down, the canyon narrows ; 
the bluffy walls on each side assume 
more formidable features, and in fact is 
the most formidable portion of the can- 
yon, the rugged spurs shooting out as 
though they would bar our farther progress. 

Two of these spurs did bar the progress 
of our way, until tunnels were completed 
through tliem, which aggregate 59G feet in 
length. 

Timber can be seen oh the tops of the 
mountains, and in the largest of the deep 
ravines, but inaccessible, from the un- 
usual ruggedness of its surroundings. 
Lime-rock abounds and game, both large 
and small, is xery numerous, including 
the grizzly bear. When we passed this 
way in January, 1878, Mr. Lang, of Lang's 
Station, close "ahead, had killed one of 
these bears that weighed 900 pounds, and 
Lang called it a small one. 

L*ang— is a small station, 8.5 miles be- 
low Ravena, and about half-a-mile w r est of 
wiiere the " last spike " was driven, Sept. 
5th, 187G, that united the line, building from 
Los Angeles and San Francisco. The 
bottom, below the station, widens, sand 
hills and sand beds appear, as w r ell as 
sheep, on the adjoining hills, which are 
now lower, with grassy sides; and 13.1 
miles from Lang, and our train stops at 

!Newhall — an eating station named 
for a Mr. Xewhall, who owns 50,000 acres 
of bind in the vicinity, on which range 
thousands of cattle and sheep. The South- 
ern Hotel with accommodations for 150 
guests, a beautiful park, and a planted grove 
of trees are among the late improvements. 

Stages leave this station daily for Ven- 
tura, 50 miles; Santa Barbara, 80 miles; 
San Louis Obispo, 190 miles ; Paso-Robles 
Hot Springs, 220, and Solidad, 300 miles, 
at the end of the Southern Pacific railroad, 
in Salinas Valley, as noted in excursion 
No. 5. These stages carry passengers, 
mails and express. 

We now confront the San Fernando 
Mountains on the south, which rise up be- 
fore us, towering to the skies, in one great 
black solid mass, apparently presenting an 
im penetrable barrier to our furtli er progress. 
Such was the case until the engineers of 
this road, failing to find any way overthem, 
resolved to pierce through them, wiiich w r as 
done, resulting in a tunnel G,967 feet long, 
built in a straight line and timbered all the 
way. These mountains, as stated, are 
high, rising up out of the valley from 



236 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



2,500 to 3,000 feet, but narrow— a huge 
" hog-back " ridge. Leaving Newhall, it is 
1.6 miles to 

Andrews— To the west of this station, 
about four miles, are located several oil 
wells, in a region said to be very rich in 
oil. Two refineries have been established 
at this station, which furnish for shipment 
about one car-load per day. Live oaks and 
some white oaks are numerous along the 
road and on the sides of the low-hills, 
for the last fifteen miles, making the 
country look more cheerful than it other- 
wise would. 

Leaving Andrews, we soon commence to 
ascend, passing through deep cuts to the 

San Fernando Tunnel— This tunnel, 
as before stated, is 6,967 feet in length, 
timbered all the way, and is reached from 
the north up a grade of 116 feet per mile ; 
grade in tunnel, 37 feet per mile; grade be- 
yond tunnel— south— for five miles, 106 feet 
per mile ; elevation of tunnel, 1,469 leet. 
The view, from the rear end of the car, 
while passing through the tunnel, is quite 
an interesting one. 

The light, on entering the great bore, is 
large and bright, the smooth rails glisten 
like burnished silver in the sun's rays. 
Gradually the light lessens in brilliancy; 
the rails become two long ribbons of silver, 
sparkling through the impenetrable dark- 
ness; gradually these lessen, the light 
fades— and fades, and fades— the_ entrance 
is apparently not larger than a pin's head, 
and then all light is gone and darkness 
reigns supreme — and still we are not 
through. It is the history of many a life : 
the bright hopes of youth expire with age. 

As we emerge from the tunnel, the valley 
of San Fernando dawns a bright vision of 
beauty upon us. Here we enter, as it were, 
a new world of verdure and fruitfulness — a 
land literally " flowing with milk and 
honey." From the tunnel we have de- 
scended rapidly, 5.2 miles to 

San Fernando— named for the 
famous old mission of San Fernando, lo- 
cated about two miles to the right, embow- 
ered in lovely groves of orange, lemon and 
olive trees. It is in the middle of the valley 
of the same name, surrounded by moun- 
tain ranges. The San Fernando Moun- 
tains are on the east and north, the Coast 
Range on the West, and the Sierra Santa 
Monica on the west and south. The 
greater portion of the western and central 
part of the valley is under a high state of 
cultivation, but the eastern, along where 



our road is built, is covered with sage- 
brush, cactus, grease-wood, small cedars 
and mesquite shrubs. 

The station is of little account — only a 
few buildings, a store, hotel, cattle pen and 
shutes make up the place. Leaving the 
station, we pass groves of planted trees ; 
those on the right, of the eucalypti species. 

Sepnlveda— is the next station, 12.5 
miles south of San Fernando. It is situated 
on the east bank of Los Angeles River, 
where passenger trains meet and pass. 
Continuing along down the valley — which 
now begins to present an improved appear- 
ance— 8.6 miles we come to East Los 
Angeles. 

£os Angeles Junction— is sit- 
uated about one mile east of the city, from 
which street-cars run regularly; fare, 10 
cents or four tickets for 25 certs. The 
principal hotels, the Pico and St. Charles, 
charge from $2 to $3 per day ; the United 
States and Lafayette from $1.50 to $2.00, all 
of which send buses to the depot, on ar- 
rival of trains. 

L<os Angeles ! — Ah, here we are at 
the " City of the Angels !" Los Angeles is 
the county seat of Los Angeles county, 
situated on the Los Angeles River, 24 
miles north from the port of San Pedro ; 
but the principal shipping point is at 
Wilmington, about two miles above San 
Pedro, at the head of the bay, with which 
it is connected by railroad 22 miles dis- 
tant. It is also connected with Santa 
Monica by rail, 18 miles to the westward, 
where steamers land from up and down 
the coast. The city contains a population 
of about 16,000— has many fine business 
blocks, three banks, several large, fine 
hotels, chief of which is the Pico. The 
churches and schools are all that could 
be desired, both in numbers and quality. 
There are four daily, seven weekly, and 
a number of miscellaneous publications. 
The dailies are: the Star, Express Herald, 
and the Republican. 

Water for irrigation in the city is sup- 
plied by Los Angeles River, and by wind- 
mills. The manufactories are not very 
numerous, the shops of the Railroad Com- 
pany being the principal ones. The town 
is a railroad center, commanding an ex- 
tensive trade at present, and in the future 
it fears no rival. It is already connected 
with Santa Monica, on the west, 18 miles ; 
Wilmington, on the south, 22 miles; Santa 
Ana, on the southeast, 33 miles ; Yuma, on 
the east, 248 miles, and San Francisco, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 




north, 470 miles. Los 
Angeles is an old town, 
having heen settled in 
1771. It is located at the 
southern base of the 
Sierra Santa Monica 
range on a gradual 
slope, and is completely 
embowered in foliage. 
The vineyards, in and 
around the city, are very 
numerous ; they are to be 
seen on all sides, equaled 
only by the number of 
orange, lemon, and fruit 
orchards. It is really a 
city of gardens and 
groves. Then, as one 
rides to the westward, 
or the southward, mag- 
nificent plantations 
stretch away as far as the 
eye can reach. Here is 
the wealth of the tropics ; 
here can be seen the 
orange, lemon, lime, 
pomegranate, fig, and 
all kinds of tropical and 
semi-tropical fruits, at- 
taining to the greatest 
perfection ; here will be 
seen the huge palm-tree, 
the banan a, the beautiful 
Italian and Monterey 
cypress, the live oak, 
pepper, and the eucalyp- 
tus, as well as the orange and lemon 
trees in the grounds and parks, gar- 
dens and lawns, of almost every citizen's 
residence. One orchard — situated in 
the heart of the city, the " Wolfkill "—con- 
tains 100 acres. In this orchard are 2,600 
orange trees, 1,000 lime, and 1,800 lemon 
trees; besides, there are adjoining 100 
acres in vineyard. But why particularize ? 
Look where you will, and you will see 
vineyards and orchards laden with luscious 
fruits, and will be ready to exclaim: 
"Why, oh, why was 'mother Eve' 
driven out?" 

Leaving Los Angeles, we w T ill take the 
cars on the 

Los Angeles and Independence Rail- 
road — under the management of the 
''Central" Company, of which 

is Assistant Superintendent, and 
speed away to the westward. The first 
few miles is through the edge of the city, 
and then past a succession of vineyards, 



yucca palm of mojava desert. See page 233. 

orange and fruit orchards, nurseries and 
groves of planted trees. Then come 
broad fields and pretty little farm-houses ; 
then through a succession of deep sand 
cuts, and the broad ocean appears, and then 
Santa Monica— called by some 
the " Long Branch of the Pacific Coast." 
It is certainly a beautiful location, and if 
it does not attain the same popularity as 
its namesake, on the Jersey shore, it will 
not be for lack of natural advantages. Its 
location is one of surpassing loveliness — 
in front the Pacific Ocean ; in the back- 
ground the noble range of the Sierra 
Mad re. Far out to the seaward looms up 
mistily the island of Catalina. The facili- 
ties for bathing could hardly be better. 
The beach is fine, 'the sand hard and 
smooth, and the slope gradual, with no 
terrors of undertow to appal timid swim- 
mers. The place is protected from cold 
winds by a prominent head-land, and the 
climate is very equable. 



238 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



The following table shows the mean tem- 
perature of January and July in Califor- 
nia and other States and countries, taken 
from reliable sources: 



Place. 


Jan'y 


July. 


Differ- 
ence. 


Latitude 




Deafe 


Deg e 


Degre 


Deg. min. 


San Francisco.. 


49 




8 


37 48 


Monterey 


52 


5 


6 


36 36 


Santa Barbara . . 


54 


7 


17 


34 24 


Lo-> Angeles . .. 
Santa Monica. .. 


5C 


7i 


23 


34 04 


52 


69 


17 


34 02 


San Diego 


51 


72 


21 


32 41 


Sacramento 


45 


73 


28 


38 34 


Humboldt Bay.. 


40 


58 


18 


40 44 


Sonoma 


45 


66 


21 


38 18 


Vallejo 


48 


67 


19 


38 05 


Fort Yuma 


56 


92 


36 


32 43 


Cincinnati 


30 


74 


44 


39 06 


New York 


31 


77 


42 


40 37 


New Orleans.... 


55 


82 


27 


29 57 


Naples 


46 


76 


30 


40 52 


Honolulu 


71 


78 


7 


21 16 




52 
37 


65 
62 


U3 
25 


19 26 


London 


51 29 


Bordeaux ... — 


41 


73 


32 


44 50 


Mentone 


40 


73 


33 


43 41 


Marseilles 


43 


75 


32 


43 17 


Genoa 


46 


77 


31 


44 24 



It will be seen by referring to the above 
table that Southern California possesses a 
climate unexcelled in equability by any 
portion of the world, and of the happiest 
medium between the extremes of heat and 
cold. Santa Monica has these advantages 
of temperature in a special degree, the air 
being modified by the ocean to a point 
most agreeable and invigorating, both to 
the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. 

The bathing house, situated on the beach, 
about fifty feet above the water, is the 
finest on the coast. It is a large building 
supplied with baths of all kinds, where the 
bathers have within reach, faucets by which 
a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot 
or cold, can be instantly obtained by the 
effort of turning them on. Here, too, are 
steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- 
sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- 
dations for which ample provision is made. 

Santa Monica was first laid out as a town 
in 1875, and in two years attained a popu- 
lation of 800. It has some good stores, and 
quite a number of good hotels, chief of 
which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and 
Ocean House ; the latter has accommoda- 
tions for about 50 guests, and the former 
for 125. These houses are so situated as to 
command a most extensive view. Their 
charges are from $12 to $18 per week. 
Santa Monica has its newspaper — the Out- 
look; an enterprising weekly, edited and 



published by L. F. Fisher, Esq., who is thor- 
oughly alive to the advantages of the town. 

Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to 
the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point 
Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles 
distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 
miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south 
of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas 
Island, 37 miles in the same direction, and 
Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 
miles distant. These islands are a great 
protection to Santa Monica from the wrath 
of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. 

The wharf, which was built from the 
end of the railroad to deep water, affording 
a landing for coast steamers, was destroyed 
in 1878, "but we presume will be rebuilt. 

In the range of the mountains on the 
north, game of many varieties can be 
found, and in the lagoons south of the 
town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and 
other varieties of game are abundant. 

The drives are very fine, being along the 
beach for many miles, and then, on the 
high plateau 500 feet above, extending for 
many miles, affording a most extended 
view ; or, up to the natural springs on the 
side of the mountain, which furnish the 
town with water, bubbling up like a 
fountain, and is caught in a large basin or 
pond, for city use. 

A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- 
nica Canyon to Manville Glen— a wild, 
rugged mountain-place covered with old 
forest trees, down which ripples one of the 
neatest little brooks imaginable. The 
point of the mountain above has become a 
very popular camping giound, where 
camps are made, and parties spend months 
in rambling over the mountains and en- 
joying the ocean baths, etc. 

There are some beautiful country resi- 
dences about Santa Monica, among which 
is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. 

Returning to Los Angeles, we take the 
Wilmington Division — and start di- 
rectly south through a succession of vine- 
yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, 
to Florence, six miles from Los Angeles. 
At this station the track of the San Diego 
Division branches off to the left. But we 
continue south, through broad, well-culti- 
vated fields, where the good effects of irri- 
gation are shown, by large crops of vege- 
tables, which abound in the section we are 
now traversing. Gradually the rich soil 
gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and 
sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of 
sheep on the more elevated lands. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



About two miles before reaching Wil- 
mington, we pass, on the right, embowered 
in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- 
tary Department, of Southern California 
and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When 
the Government had no further use for the 
property it was sold, and is now used by the 
Protestants, and called Wilson's College. 

Wilmington contains a population of 
about 500, most of whom are engaged in 
the shipping interests. At the long wharf 
are great warehouses, beside which, vessels 
drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and 
load and unload from and into the cars 
of the railroad, which run the whole 
length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 
15 feet of water can cross the bar, two 
miles below, but are unable to reach the 
wharf, and are unloaded two miles below. 

Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- 
fectly sheltered, several miles in length, 
with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a 
depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, 
shoaling at its head to 12 feet. 

The Government has expended over half a 
million of dollars to improve the harbor at 
this place; the breakwater is 6,700 feet 
long, and when completed, it will be of 
incalculable advantage to the people of 
this section of country. 

Wilmington is a point where immense 



quantities of ties and redwood lumber are 
landed from the Humboldt Bay country, 
200 miles north of San Francisco, on the 
coast, and also where are landed large 
quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- 
sels that come here to load with grain. The 
coal is brought for ballast, more than for 
profit. 

Rattlesnake Island is in front of the har- 
bor—sand principally San Pedro Point 
is two miles south, and Point Fermin, 
around that point to the west, reached by 
wagon-road around the beach or over the 
bluffs, six miles distant. Deadman's 
Island is a small, isolated rocky peak, where 
commences the breakwater improvement 
below Point Pedro. 

Fermin Point is on the most prominent 
headland on the west, surmounted with a 
light of the first order, [which is kept by 
two ladies.] Near this point, in stone, is 
the subject of our illustration, below, 
called San Pedro's Wife or the " Woman 
op the Period." 

The distance from Wilmington by 
steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles ; to 
San Diego, 95 miles; to Santa Catalina 
Island, 20 miles. This Island is owned by 
the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten 
wide, on which are some gold mines, and 
great numbers of sheep and goats. 




240 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



The Island San Clemente is 30 miles 
further, a long, narrow strip of land, on 
which there is no water, where range 
thousands of sheep and goats, which seem 
to thrive better than on Santa Catalina 
Island, where water is abundant. 

Returning again to Los Angeles, we 
start over the 

Nan Diego Division. 

Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the 
same as over the Wilmington route to 
Florence, six miles south, where our route 
turns to the left. 

Leaving Florence, we cross the Los 
Angeles River, along which are some broad, 
rich bottom lands, passing large groves of 
eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to 
Downey — This is a thrifty town of 
agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with 
some good buildings. The Central Hotel 
is the principal hotel. The country is fiat, 
and vineyards and orange orchards are to 
be seen at different places, over which 
the waters of San Gabriel River are con- 
ducted in numerous canals and ditches 

Leaving the station, we soon cross San 
Gabriel River, note the existence of many 
sycamore trees, some oaks and many 
" Gum-trees," and four miles are at 

Nor walk — This is a new station, in the 
center of a broad fertile valley, with only 
the smaller portion under cultivation Con- 
tinuing on, over a grassy plain, where are 
a few trees, and a few alkali beds, we pass 
Costa, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll 
along through an improving country. The 
La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond 
which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. 
From Costa it is 3.6 miles to 

Anaheim — Here we are at a live town of 
1,500 population, which, from the car win- 
dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with 
its long rows of trees and beautiful fields. 
A run through the town will reveal the 
fact that it contains many fine buildings, 
some of which are devoted to merchandis- 
ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two 
good hotels— the Planters and the Anaheim, 
and one newspaper— the Gazette. The town 
is embowered in foliage ; tall poplar trees, 
cypress, eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor 
bean, palm and many other trees are 
among the number seen everywhere. 

Here we find extensive irrigating canals 
and a complete net-work of ditches, con- 
ducting the water through the streets and 
over the grounds in all directions, A great 
number of the private residences are 



painted white, (not a very common thing 
in California,) and look very cheerful. 
Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot- 
tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a 
long bridge, pass Orange, a small hamlet 
on the left — where is a grove of planted 
trees — and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two 
miles further come to 

Santa Ana — This town is 33.3 miles 
southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a 
mile west of the depot, where is now the 
end of the road, and where a town is being 
laid off, called East Santa Ana. Santa 
Ana is situated about one and half miles 
south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- 
heim, is embowered in trees and sur- 
rounded by vineyards, orchards and the 
best of land, under a high state of cultiva- 
tion. There are some large stores in the 
town and good brick buildings, several fine 
churches, good schools, three hotels — chief 
of which is the Santa Ana Hotel — one 
daily and two weekly newspapers; the 
News and the Times are weekly, and the 
Free Lance is a small, live daily. 

Newport Landing is eight miles west of 
Santa Ana, where most of the steamers 
call, on their way up and down the coast. 
A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana 
to the Landing, and also extends eastward 
to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The 
road was built by the counties of Los 
Angeles and San Bernardino. 

The new Black Star coal mines are sit- 
uated about twelve miles northeast, and are 
said to be extensive and the coal of good 
quality. To the east is the high range of 
the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on 
the eastern slope of which are located the 
Temescal Tin mines. 

Some of the lands surrounding Santa 
Ana and to the south and west for many 
miles, called "safe lands," will raise a good 
crop without irrigating, but the greater 
portion requires the water — to supply which 
a company is now engaged building a canal 
to take the waters of the Santa Anna River 
away to the eastward. The canal will be 
18 miles long, and will furnish ample 
water for 20,000 acres of land. 

Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan 
Capistrano, southeast 24 miles ; fare $2.50 ; 
San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, $5.00 ; also 
to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- 
mediate points. 

San Diego — As this is reached from 
Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and 
stage, it seems to be the proper place for a 
short description of the town. San Diego 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



241 



was first settled by the Jesuit missionaries, 
in 1761), and is the oldest town in the State. 
It is a port of entry, and the county seat of 
San Diego county. It is situated on San 
Diego Bay, which, for its size, is the most 
sheltered, most secure and finest harbor in 
the world. The bay is 12 miles long and 
two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet 
of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- 
tom. By act of Congress, it is the western 
terminus of the Texas & Pacific railroad, but 
when that road will be built, if ever, is a 
problem, the solution of which, all the 
citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- 
ber, are exceedingly anxious to have 
demonstrated, and there is little question but 
what they would all elect to have it built 
without delay. The city is connected by 
steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles 
north, and by stage to all inland towns. It 
is 14 miles' north of the dividing line be- 
tween Upper and Lower California, and is 
destined to make a city of great importance. 
Tropical fruit of every variety is produced 
in the county, and the climate is one of the 
finest in the world, the thermometer never 
falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or 
rising above 80 deg. in the summer. The 
country is well timbered and well watered, 
producing large crops of all kinds of grain, 
fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin 
ores have recently been discovered, which 
promise at this time to be very extensive 
and profitable. Several quartz mills have 
been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- 
lished at San Diego — the World and Union. 
San Juan Capistkano, is a quiet, sleepy, 
conservative old town, twenty-four miles 
from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a 
beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three 
sides, in a variegated frame-work of 
emerald hills, with the broad Pacific 
Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror 
at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of 
burnished gold at sunset: Here U located 
the old mission, which gave its name to 
the town. It was founded in 1776, and is 
situated on an eminence, commanding a 
view of the surrounding country, with ex- 
tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive 
and other trees, planted nearly 100 years 
ago, which continue to bear abundantly. 
To the south of the town is the Rancho Boca 
de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Rancho Neguil, 
of 12,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission 
Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These 
ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- 
tural land, but now the greater portion is 
used for pasturage. 
16 



Gospel Swamp — This singularly pro- 
ductive region is situated a few miles north 
of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is 
very similar to that about the " Mussel 
Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. 
The soil is wholly composed of the richest 
sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of 
vegetable matter that has been going on 
since the creation of the world. In this 
section, all kinds of vegetables attain im- 
mense proportions, so large that we dare not 
give the figures. This is the pumpkin's home. 
Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 lbs. are not 
uncommon in this region. A single vine 
produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins 
without any further care than putting the 
seed in the ground — and it was a poor year 
for pumpkins at that. Corn is the princi- 
pal crop, in gathering which they find 
much difficulty, owing to the height of the 
stalks. If some enterprising Yankee 
would invent a portable elevator with a 
graduated seat and revolving buckets for 
holding the ears of corn, he could find in 
this section an extensive field in which to 
operate. 

Returning once more to Los Angeles, 
and for the lost time, we take our old seat, 
and start for Sunrise, at Yuma. [See 
Time Table, next page.] 

Leaving Los Angeles, our course is 
south about one mile— on the track we 
have been over several times — then to the 
left, and finally due east, crossing the 
Los Angeles River, just beyond which is 
the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and 
follow up a little valley. On the right 
are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around 
which are many little cottages nestling 
cosily beneath a wreath of foliage, consist- 
ing of orange and other fruit-trees. We 
are now on an ascending grade, and shall 
continue to be, for the next 80 miles. 

To the left, about four miles, is located 
Pasadena — (Key of the Valley) — quite 
commonly known as the " Indiana Colony," 
a new and beautiful settlement northeast 
from Los Angeles about seven miles, and 
three miles from the old mission of San 
Gabriel. Five years ago this position was 
occupied only by the one adobe house of 
a Spaniard, Garfias, who once owned the 
ranche. A company of eastern men, largely 
from 1 ndiana, purchased the tract, with an 
abundant water privilege arising in the 
Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one 
of the sub-divided tracts of 1%, 15 or 30 
acres each was taken within a year by 
actual settlers, and these, almost without 



242 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



TIMEJTABLE 

YUMA DIVISION. 
From Los Angeles to Yuma. 



E. E. Hewitt, Asst. Supt. 



TOWARDS 


SUNRISE. 




& o 




2 « 


Dailv 


a; a 






Express 


- c fc 


Mixed. 


x a 




Poq 






2:25 pin 


.470 


3:10 


.479 


3:20 


.482 


3:30 


.483 


4:00 * 


.490 


4:45 


•500 


5:05 


.503 


5:40* 


.513 


6:30 t 


.528 


7:30* 


.531 


8:25* 


.542 


9:10* 


.551 


9:32* 


.557 


10:05 


.563 


10:40* 


.571 


11 :07 * 


.579 


12:15* am 


.600 


12:55 


.613 


1:50 


.630 


2:27 * 


.641 


3:30 * 


.659 


3:50 * 


.665 


4:10 * 


.671 


4:50* 


.682 


5:40 * 


.69K 


6:25 * 


110 


7:00 am 


719 



LOS ANGELES 
TIME. 



STATIONS. 



Lv $L. Angeles. Ar 
. .San Gabriel. . 

Savanna. .. 

JMonte 

Puente 

JSpadra 

^Pomona 

. . . Cncamonga. . . 

....JColton 

..Mound City. .. 

El Casco. ... 

..SanGorgonio. . 

Banning 

.. .JCabazon 

., White Water... 
..Seven Palms... 
Indio 



.Walters. 



. .Dos Palmas 

..Frink's Spring.. 
..Flowing Well.. 

Tortuga 

.Mammoth Tank. 

Mesquite 

Cactus 

Pilot Knob. .. . 

Ar.. .frYuma. Lv 



TOWARDS 
SUNDOWN 



400 



.323 
.706 
.856 
.952 

.965 
1055 
1874 



1779 
1126 
.584 

20 
bel'v 

135 
bel'w 

253 
bel'v 

260 

bel'w 

45 

bel'w 

.183 
.257 



285 



Daily 

Express 

Mixed. 

10:15 am 



9:25 

9:00* 

8:30 

8:20 

7:50* 

6:35 t 

6:25 * 

5:35 * 

5:00 * 

4:30* 

4:00 

3:22* 

2:45* 

1:35 * 

12:55 a m 

11:50 

11 :05 * 

10:00 * 

9:40 * 
9:20 * 
8:40 * 
7:50* 
7:05 * 
6:30 p m 



* Trains stop only on signal, t Meals. % Day 
Telegraph. 
Note Elevation and Depressions. 



exception, eastern families of the highest 
class and of comfortable means. Young 
orange orchards, j ust commencing to bear, 
now form the principal feature of the town ; 
its abundant mountain water is distributed 
to hydrants, bath-rooms and fountains in 
and about each house ; the dry-bed of the 
Arroyo, on its western edge, furnishes 
abundant wood ; the Sierra Madra or San 
Fernando range bounds and guards its 
northern side, and its site overlooks the 
whole San Gabriel Valley. 



An English clergyman, convicted of stealing 
two pairs of gloves, made the defense that his 
grandfather was a wicked man. 



The Lake Vineyard Association has 
more recently opened up a fine tract, bor- 
dering Pasadena on the east, and the two 
settlements, now blending into one, have 
some seventy houses, many of them very 
handsome, a Presb} T terian and a Methodist 
church, two school-houses, stores, shops 
and a daily mail. Not alone those who 
have their pretty homes and orange groves 
there think it the most desirable of all 
California's delightful spots, but unpreju- 
diced travelers, who have seen the whole, 
acknowledge that here, indeed, as its 
Spanish name asserts, is the " key of the 
valley " and that valley the far-famed and 
Eclen like San Gabriel. 

In visiting the orange groves and old 
Mission Church of this locality it will 
more than pay to turn aside the two or three 
miles necessary in order to see Pasadena 
and Lake Vineyard. 

To the right, before reaching the next 
station, several huge palm trees can be 
seen, like those shown on the foreground 
of our illustration, on page 10. They are 
the fan palm, great numbers of which are 
to be seen on our route hereafter. 

Passing up through the little valley, 
9.2 miles from Los Angeles, we come to 

San Gabriel— The station is on a 
broad plateau gently sloping from the 
mountains on the left. Far to the right, 
away down on the San Gabriel River, em- 
bowered in all kinds of fruit trees, and sur- 
rounded by vineyards, is the old, Old San 
Gabriel Mission, founded Sept. 8th, 1771. 
All the old missions in California — twenty- 
one in number — were founded by members 
of the Order of San Francisco, who were 
sent out by the college of San Fernando, 
in the City of Mexico, who were of the 
order of Franciscan Friars. The orange 
orchard at the Mission was the first planted, 
as the Mission was the first founded in 
California by the old Padres. Some of the 
trees are very large, and continue to bear 
the best of fruit. The "Wolikill " orchard 
in Los Angeles is the next in age, and the 
second in size. To the north of this station, 
two miles distant, is situated the 

Largest Orange Orchard in Cali- 
fornia — It is owned by L. J. Rose, Esq., 
and contains 500 acres. In this orchard 
are orange trees of all sizes, loaded with 
fruit the year round. Besides oranges, 
great numbers of lemon, lime, almond, 
English walnut, and many other varieties 
of fruits and nuts, are raised here to the 
greatest perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 in 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



243 



number, are growing here, planted by Gen. 
Stoneman. 

The town of San Gabriel is located about 
one and a half miles north of the station, 
and is completely embowered in foliage, 
among which are all the varieties of orna- 
mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, 
grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens 
seemingly having taken great pains, to 
procure some of every kind of tree and 
shrub, with which to beautify their other- 
wise beautiful town. 

We have referred to the old, Old Mis- 
sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission 
Church, which is located close on our left, 
just before reaching this station. It is in a 
dilapidated condition, but the bells are 
still hanging in plain view from the cars, 
which were wont to call the faithful to 
their devotions, long before the u blarsted 
Yankees" invaded the country. 

The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- 
pointed hotel, situated about three miles 
from the station, away up on the foot-hills 
1,800 feet above the level of the sea. It is 
in a most beautiful location, overlooking 
the whole valley of Los Angeles, Santa 
Monica and Wilmington, with thousands 
of acres in orange and fruit orchards, and 
in vineyards, in the foreground, and in the 
re.tr the towering mountains. From 
springs in these mountains the sparkling 
waters are conducted in pipes, and com- 
pelled to do duty in the fountains in front 
of the Villa, in every room in the house, 
and for irrigating 3,000 orange, lemon, and 
other fruit trees adjoining the hotel. This 
is a lovely place to sojourn — if not forever, 
certainly for a season. At this Villa is the 
best of accommodation for about 50 guests, 
at charges from $12 to $15 per week. 

Close to the station, on the left, the tour- 
ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- 
fore seen on this route. There are over 
two hundred varieties — so we are told — of 
these cactus plants. The ones at this 
station grow about ten feet high, and are 
of the pad species, i. e., they grow, com- 
mencing at the ground, in a succession of 
great pads, from eight inches in width to 
fifteen inches in length, and from one to 
three inches in thickness. These pads are 
covered with sharp thorns, and grow one 
upon the other, connected by a tough stem, 
round, and about two inches in diameter. 
These cacti bear a kind of fruit of a 
pleasant flavor, which is used principally 
by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- 
dents. 



From San Gabriel, we continue up the 
plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel 
River on the right, 2.5 miles to 

Savanna — where are well-cultivated 
fields, groves and vineyards. Passing on 
1.4 miles further is 

Monte — This is a thriving town of 
several hundred families in the most pro- 
ductive portion of San Gabriel Valley. 
Here corn and hogs are the staples, and 
hog and hominy the diet. The settlers 
raise immense fields of corn, and feed 
great numbers of hogs for market — in fact, 
this is the most hogish section yet visited, 
but we suppose the Monte men would 
bristle up if they were told so. 

Passing on, more to the southward, we 
soon cross San Gabriel River, which here 
has a broad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised 
in great numbers in this and the section 
of country traversed for the next 50 miles. 

Puente — is the next station, 6.2 miles 
from Monte, where trains only stop on 
signal. It is situated on the east bank of 
San Jose Creek, beyond which and the 
west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the 
bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the 
settlers being mostly Spanish or Mexicans. 

Coursing around to the left, up San 
Jose Creek, along which will be found 
many Mexican houses and herds of sheep, 
ten miles brings our train to 

Spadra — elevation 706 feet. This is a 
small place of a score or more of dwell- 
ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is 
the home of an old Missouri gentleman, 
familiarly called Uncle Billy Rubottom, 
whose house is in a grove just opposite 
the station on the right, a few hundred 
yards from the depot. He has lived here 
near 30 years, and keeps "open house" 
for all his friends, in real old Southern 
style. He can often be seen at the depot 
mounted on his mustang, under a sombrero, 
something smaller than a circus tent, and 
as happy as a bevy of New England girls 
would be in a Los Angeles orange orchard. 

Passing on up the creek, which is 
gradually dwindling, beyond which are a 
succession of buttes, or low, grass-covered 
hills, 3.5 miles brings us to 

Pomona — This is a promising little 
town of about 600, with some good build- 
ings. Garcy avenue — the principal one — 
is planted on each side, with Monterey 
cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents 
a beautiful appearance. Four artesian 
wells supply the town with water, and for 
irrigating purposes, these wells range 



244 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



from 26 to 65 feet in depth, and flow an 
immense amount of water, which is as 
pure as crystal. A reservoir holding 
3,000,000 gallons is kept full, as a reserve 
at all times. Here, too, we find many 
orchards of orange, lemon, fig, and fruit 
trees. From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the 
side-track and signal station of 

€ucamongd — elevation, 952 feet. 
Two and a half miles north is the Cuca- 
monga Ranche, celebrated for its wines. 
To the South, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- 
ment, a rich agricultural region, under a 
most complete system of irrigation, the 
water being supplied by the Santa Anna 
River, which carries a large volume of 
water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles 
through a section of country where are a 
few good ranches we come to 

Colton — This place was named for 
the late vice- President of the Southern 
Pacific, and is a regular eating station for 
trains from the East and West. The town 
is not a very large one at present —about 
200 persons will be the full number — yet it 
is quite a busy place, as it is the nearest 
station to San Bernardino, on the east, and 
Riverside, on the southwest. The Trans- 
Continental is the principal hotel, and a 
very good one. Colton has a newspaper — 
the Semi-Tropic, that makes its bow 
weekly. 

Marble — To the west of the station, 
half-mile distant, a round butte rises from 
the prairie to the height of 500 feet, about 
115 acres in area, in which has been dis- 
covered an immense body of what has been 
pronounced a very fine quality of marble, 
besides lime and cement in great abun- 
dauce. A stock company has been formed, 
a rail track is to be laid to the mine, and 
the marble will soon be in the market ; the 
demand for which, it is said, is already 
very great. 

The Co jon Pass — (pronounced ko-hoon) 
through the San Bernardino Mountains, is 
due north from Colton, and we hear there 
are plans maturing to build a railroad 
through this "Pass "to Mojava, a distance 
of 70 miles. Should this ever be done, the 
distance from Colton to Mojava and the 
north will be shorter by 90 miles than the 
present line via Los Angeles. The grade 
is said to be easy, and the work of build- 
ing, light. 

Stages leave on arrival of trains, for San 



o! I'll never tell! but ask Bntler, freight 
agent at Colton, to show you his white owl— it's a 
great curiosity. 



Bernardino, four miles east ; fare, 50 cents ; 
to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 
cents. 

The Riverside Colony — is located on 
8,000 acres of the best agricultural land in 
the State, most of which is under irri- 
gating ditches, and is in a very thriving 
condition ; in fact, it is the most prosper- 
ous, wealthy, and successful colony on the 
Pacific coast. Land that in 1868 was 
worth but a few dollars per acre, now would 
sell readily for from $100 to $150 per acre 
— verily, this country is the poor man's 
paradise, — and there are millions of acres 
full as good, now unoccupied, awaiting his 
advent. 

San Bernardino — four miles east, 
and 61 miles east of Los Angeles, is the 
county seat of San Bernardino county, the 
largest in the State. It was settled by a colony 
of Mormons in 1847, and the town laid out 
in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with 
water running through all the principal 
streets from a never-failing supply obtained 
from numerous springs and creeks, in, and 
coming down from the San Bernardino 
Mountains on the east, close to the base of 
which, the town is located. All the Mor- 
mons now living here are "Josephites," 
Brigham, some years since, having called 
home to Salt Lake all who were devoted 
to him. The town contains a population 
of about 6,000, most of whom are engaged 
in fruit raising and agricultural pursuits. 
Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, 
gardens, and groves, are the rule, and, alto- 
gether, it is a very beautiful town. 

San Bernardino is on the old trail, 
through the Cajon Pass, to the mining 
regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of 
little use. The valley of San Bernardino 
Contains 36,000 acres. Crops of all kinds 
grow in this valley. Much of the land 
produces two crops a year — barley for the 
first, and corn for the second; of the 
former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- 
erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to 
sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six 
crops a year are grown. 

Six miles north of San Bernandino are 
Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs 
are said to be almost a sure cure for the 
rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the 
valley, and 1,800 above sea level. 

Near San Bernardino are the Mountains, 
— East, the most prominent peak of which 
is 8,750 feet above sea level. 

Returning to Colton, another engine is 
attached to our train, and we proceed to 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



245 



clinibthe San Gorgonio Pass; so we bid 
adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful 
fruit orchards, the luscious vineyards, and 
the glorious climate of California, as we 
shall see no more of those attractions on 
this trip. " Fare-thee-well, and if forever, 
still, forever fare-thee-well." 

Leaving Colton, we cross Santa Anna 
River, and 3.4 miles from Colton come to 
Mound City, a signal station, with an 
elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now 
runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on 
each side. 

Sheep are the only things of life now 
noticeable. Eleven miles further comes 

El Casco— another signal station, sit- 
uated in a ravine extending to the Pass. 
Up this ravine the average grade is 80 feet 
to the mile; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are 
now in a section where large quantities of 
peaches are raised. 

Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles 
brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 
feet, at 

San OorgOllio — There are some 
good agricultural lands near, when irri- 
gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the 
water from the mountains to the northeast, 
twelve miles distant, tor that purpose. 

To the west, seven miles, is the great 
San Jacinto Nueva Rancho, containing 
47,000 acres. This property is now being 
sub-divided into 10, and|20 acre farms, and 
sold on easy terms. We have visited the 
Rancho and are free to say the greater por- 
tion is a soil fully as rich and productive 
as any in the State, easily irrigated where 
necessary, from the San Jacinto River 
which runs through the property, or by 
wells ; abundance of water being obtained 
within from five to twenty feet of the 
surface. 

From this station it is down grade for 
6.2 miles to Banning, a signal station, and 
5.7 miles more brings us to 

Cab azon- (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), 
which means " Big Head," named for a 
tribe of Indians who live in this country ; 
elevation, 1,779 feet, We are now in the 
Coahulian Valley. To the ri^ht are the San 
Jacinto Mountains, covered with timber. 
From Cabazon it is 8.5 miles to White 
Water, an unimportant signal station, 
1,126 feet altitude, where we enter the cac- 
tus and desert country, and from which 
station it is 7.5 miles to 

Seven Palms— elevation 584 feet. 
Tlrs station was named for seven large 
palm trees, situated about one mile north 



of the station. They are from 40 to 60 feet 
in height, with very large, spreading tops. 
The water at this station is the first and 
best on the west side of the desert, and in 
the days when emigrants traveled this 
route with teams, it was one of the points 
looked forward to with much pleasure. 

From this station to Dos Palmas, a little 
over 50 miles, the palm trees are abundant. 
Indio— is 20.8 miles from Seven Palms, 
with a depression of just twenty feet below 
sea-level. The palm trees along here are 
many of them 70 feet in height. When we 
commenced to descend below the sea level, 
three miles before reaching Indio, we left 
the sand-belt and entered a region more 
adapted for agricultural purposes, strange 
as it may seem. The cactus grows luxu- 
riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms 
cover the face of the land. From this 
point we descend lower and lower at every 
revolution of the wheels, down, doion under 
the sea! Methinks we can see the huge 
ships sailing over our heads, and many of 
the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast 
wistfully down upon us; then we think of 
Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as 
he did ; then, along comes the freebooter, 
Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our 
measure with a knowing wink of his left 
fin— he rises to the surface as though to get 
a fresh breath and a better start for a grand 
dive, looking as hungry as a New York 
landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago 
drummer, and as "cheeky" as some of the 
literary thieves who pirate information 
from our book, without giving credit. 

In some points of the depression, where 
we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, 
fresh water can be obtained by sinking 
from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- 
tion is very luxuriant ; mesquite, iron- wood, 
arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and other 
woods and shrubs abound. Further to the 
south, from Walters to Flowing Wells, a 
distance of over 40 miles, the country is 
completely barren, in fact, is a "howling 
wilderness." Through this section, the 
water obtained by digging is very salt. 

The beach surrounding this depression 
is 40 feet above high water; the lines are 
the same noticeable around any salt beach, 
the pebbles laying in rows, away around 
the different water-lines, as though left but 
yesterday by the receding waters. Marine 
and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- 
cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent 
to its being a part of the ocean. 

Walters— is 13.3 miles from Indio, 



246 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



where passenger trains meet and pass. At 
this point we are 135 feet below the level of 
the sea, and still going down. Ten miles 
further and we are 266 feet below; gradually 
we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 
miles from Walters, are at 

I>os Falmas- only 253 feet below. 
From Dos Palmas, desolation reigns su- 
preme, and 10.9 miles brings us to 

Fink's Springs — Here we are 
seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas, being 
260 feet below ; alittie further itwill be 262 
feet, when we commence to rise. 

Five miles south, are twenty-five square 
miles of mud springs. The first is about 
100 yards east of the road, and is cold. 
Then to the right, from one to six miles, are 
many springs, both hot and cold. Some 
are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as 
though in a huge caldron, just on a level 
with the ground. Others are smaller, cone- 
shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from 
the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. 
The mud in these springs is much the same 
consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up 
as in a pot, over a slow fire. The smell, 
coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, 
reminds one of a region of which our 
modern teachers deny the existence. 

The railroad track does not cross this 
depression in the lowest place, as an area 
west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half 
feet lower. This has been called a Vol- 
canic country. There are no signs that 
would indicate it ever to have been dis- 
turbed by volcanic eruptions, except tiie 
presence of the mud springs ; on the con- 
trary, most ot the rocks surrounding this 
basin for fifty miles are granite, which is 
unusual in a volcanic section of country. 
What few rocks there are here, that are not 
granite, show no appearance of volcanic 
matter. Spurs of San Bernardino Mountains 
have been on our left, up to this point, after 
which they dwindle to small, isolated sand 
hills, here and there. 

Flowing Well— is the next station, 
17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have 
risen, so that we are now only 45 feet below 
sea level. At this station the Railroad 
Co. sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, 
and got an abundance of water, through a 
six-inch pipe, but it was too salt for use. 

Six miles further we pass 

Tortuga — a signal station, 183 feet 
altitude, and 6 miles further come to 

Mammoth Tank— so named from a 
natural water tank in the granite rocks on 
the left, five miles distant, which holds 10,000 



gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always 
has water in it. 

It is said there are several hundred va- 
rieties of cactus on this desert, and we are 
ready to admit the statement without hunt- 
ing further proof than what can be seen 
from the car window. They are here, of 
all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles 
further, we come to another signal station 
called 

Hesquite — so named because there is 
no mesquite near or in the immediate vi- 
cinity. Next comes— 13.8 mLes — 

Cactus — elevation, 396 feet, named for 
a variety of cactus called "occtilla," which 
grows in great numbers, near. 

To the east, from this station, can be 
seen Chimney Peak — a conglomerate rock 
— a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which 
rises from the summit of some low hills, 
700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles 
away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- 
tains. They are on the east side of the 
Colorado River, from the summit of which 
rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 
feet above the mountain range, which pre- 
sents the appearance of a monster, square, 
fiat-roofed building, but which in reality, 
is a long, narrow column, when viewed 
from a point to the southward of the Dome. 

Mesquite, sage, and grease-wood shrubs 
are now to be seen on all sides. Directly 
ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot 
Knob, on the east side of which are located 
some lead mines. This butte is just seven 
miles north of the Mexican boundary line. 
Passing on 13.6 miles, we come to a signal 
station, called 

Pilot Knob — From here, our course 
changes a little more to the eastward, and 
we soon come in view of the Colorado 
River, with a wide, sandy botton covered 
with willows and mesquite. From Pilot 
Knob it is 9.4 miles to Yuma, about five of 
which brings to us the first view of the 
river, and the next four to the west end of 
the bridge. To the left, before crossing the 
bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, 
occupied by about one dozen "boys in 
blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking 
the surrounding country. To the right, on 
the opposite side of the river, on a high 
bluff, is located the Quartermaster's De- 
partment, Crossing the bridge, wilich has 
a draw for river boats, and through a deep 
cut, we are in Arizona, and at 

Ynma City — This is unlike any city 
we have heretofore visited. It contains a 
population of about 1,500, one-fifth of 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



247 



whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, 
Mexicans, and natives — Indians. The 
buildings are all one story high, made of 
sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls 
being from two to four feet thick, with flat 
roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of 
poles, covered with willows, sometimes a 
covering of cloth, or rawhide beneath 
them, and then covered with dirt to a thick- 
ness of from one to two feet. On all sides 
of these houses verandas project from ten 
to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, 
some with dirt, others with only the brush. 
These verandas are built for protection 
against the powerful rays of the sun. In 
summer the heat is intense; often the 
mercury marks 126, and once, some years 
ago, we learn from a reliable authority, it 
was 130 degrees in the shade. As might 
be supposed, snow and frost are unknown 
in Yuma. In summer, the American, 
Spanish and Mexican residents wear as 
little clothing as possible, while the native 
Indians' covering, will not exceed the size 
of a small pocket handkerchief, adjusted 
in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes 
a long trailing strip of red material dang- 
ling from the rear belt, a la monkey. 

In the hot weather, which is intense for 
about eight months in the year, the people 
sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered 
by the drapery furnished by nature — 
darkness. 

Yuma, with all its varieties of citizens, 
is a very orderly city The great majority 
of the people are Roman Catholics, that 
denomination having the only church 
building in ihe city There are a few 
stores, with quite extensive stocks of 
goods. The hotels are not very extensive, 
such only in name ; the Palace and Colorado 
are the two principal ones. Yuma has 
one weekly newspaper — the Sentinel. 

Most of the Spanish and Mexican houses 
are surrounded with high fences, made of 
poles, set in the ground close together, to a 
depth of three or more feet, and secured 
together about four feet from the ground, 
with narrow strips of rawhide interwoven, 
when soft, around and between the poles, 
so when the hide dries the fence is very 
strong. Many of these fences present a 
very ragged appearance, as the poles range 
in height from four to twelve feet above 
he ground. The more enterprising of thet 
people saw these poles off to a uniform 
height, when they present a much more 
artistic and finished appearance. 

The Railroad Company have large ware- 



houses here built of lumber, for the accom- 
modation of both the railroad and steamer 
business. The boats on the Colorado River 
are all owned by the Railroad Company, 
and are run in connection with the trains. 

Just above the railroad bridge, on the 
west bank of the Colorado River, is situ- 
ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top 
of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of 
a mile in diameter, rising about 200 feet 
above the river bottom, and projecting 
into the Colorado River to meet a promon- 
tory of about the same height on the east 
side. Between these bold points flows the 
Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. 
The Colorado River reaches this point 
from the northward, and the Gila (pro- 
nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a 
junction close above the points named. It 
is proposed by those managing the inter-, 
ests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pacific 
railroad, to build a bridge across the Col- 
orado River at these bluffs, some work of 
grading having been done in the fall of 
1877, just previous to the locating of the 
present railroad bridge, a few hundred 
yards below. 

From the high butte above named, a 
view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of 
the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the 
mesas, and the surrounding country for 
many miles. 

COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. 

Passenger and freight steamers leave 
Yuma for Aubry, during the summer sea- 
son, weekly, commencing the first Saturday 
in May and continuing until the last of Oc- 
tober, from that time untilJanuary follow- 
ing, they will leave every alternate Satur- 
day. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave 
every fifth Wednesday, commencing about 
the middle of January. These steamers 
run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to 
the last of October (stage of water permit- 
ting). 

Distance from Yuma, per river steamer, 
to Castle Dome, 35 miles, fare, $5.00; 
Eherenberg, 125 miles, fare, $15.00; Au- 
bry, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mo- 
hava, 300 miles, fare, $35.00 ; Hardyville, 
312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 
365 miles, fare, $45.00 

The Colorado river is the largest in Ari- 
zona. Its principal tributaries are the 
Grand River, which rises in the Middle 
Park of Colorado, and the Green River, 
which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. 
From the junction of the Grand and 
Green rivers, the stream is called the Col- 



248 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



orado, and with its windings has a length 
of 3,000 miles to where it enters the Gulf 
of California. It is navigable at all times 
about 500 miles, and in a season of high 
water about 150 miles further, to Callville. 
The time is not far distant when a trip to 
the Grand Canyon of the Colorado will be 
one of the most attractive and popular in 
America — if not in the world. For nealy 
300 miles the channel of the river has been 
cut through the mountain walls that rise 
up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, 
forming the longest, highest, and grandest 
canyon the eye of man ever beheld : fur- 
ther; to Maj. J. W. Powell, must be given 
the credit, for its discovery and thorough 
explorations, as well as thanks for his book 
giving a complete discription of these re- 
markable wonders. 

Stages leave Yuma daily, carrying pas- 
sengers, mails, and express for Castle 
Dome, 30 miles, Horse Tanks, 58 miles, 
Tyson's Wells, 93 miles, with branch line 
to Eherenberg, 28 miles further, to Wick- 
enburg, 128 miles, and Prescott, 193 miles ; 
average fare, 16 cents per mile. 

TIDVCE TABLE. 

Southern Pacific Railroad of 
Arizona. 

E. E. Hewitt, Asst. Supt. 



TOWARD 




LOS ANGELES 


TOWARD 


SUN EI 8 E. 




TIME. 




SUNDOWN. 


Daily 


a 

o 








18 


Daily 


Express 


3a 




STATIONS. 






Express 


Mixed. 


s 








tSa 


Mixed. 


8:00 am 
8:50 


:0 

15:7 


Lv 


— Yuma... 

15.7 
..Gila City.. 

14.3 


.Ar 


730:9 
746:6 


4 :25 p m 

3:38 


9:45 


30:0 
56:1 
63:7 
85:0 






760:9 
787:0 
794:6 
815:9 


2:40 


12:15 pm 
2:15 pm 


26.1 
Mohawk Summit 

7.6 
....Texas Hill.... 

21.3 
Ar...Stanwix...Lv 


12:15 pm 
10:15 am 



Leaving Yuma our course is due east, with 
the Gila River on the left or north side. 
JThe river bottom is from two to five miles 
in width and covered with white sage, 
greasewood, mesquite shrubs, willows, 
small cotton woods and some ironwood. 
The soil is a mixture of loam, sand, and 



clay, with alkali beds in places. Very 
little of the land is cultivated, yet there are 
a few Mexican or (Spanish settlers who 
"tickle the ground" a little, within the 
first ten miles after leaving Yuma. Their 
irrigating ditches are crossed in a number 
of places, and we are told the vegetables 
and early wheat raised, are very good. 

On the north side of the river five miles 
away, a Spanish settler has a large ranch 
on which a great amount of labor has been 
expended, and is said to be quite produc- 
tive. 

About ten miles east of Yuma, the blufls 
on each side close in on the river, and our 
road is built through a succession of rocky 
points or spurs which extend to the river 
bank. To the right, or south side, our 
view is wholly obstructed; but to the 
northward, beyond the river, the country 
is very much broken with canyons and ra- 
vines coming down from the high rocky 
bluffs which overtop each other in the dis- 
tance, some of which must reach an alti- 
tude of 1,500 feet above the valley. 

A few miles through rock cuttings and 
our train will reach the river bank and 
afford us a view of Los Flores, a small 
mining camp on the south side of the river, 
the "drifts" showing plainly. A two 
stamp mill is the extent of the machinery 
used. 

in i la City— is 15.7 miles east of Yuma, 
inhabited principally by Papago Indians, 
with a small sprinkling of whites, most of 
whom are engaged in "dry washing" for 
gold in the canyons and ravines south of 
the station. The gold is very fine, and not 
very abundant. 

Leaving the station, within a few miles 
we will see the first of a kind of cactus 
peculiar to Arizona. It is certainly the 
" Boss" cactus of the world. (See Annex, 
No. 55.) 

Leaving Gila City, the country is more 
open, the river bottom is several miles 
broad, and covered with small cottonwoods, 
willows, and underbrush; much of this 
land would produce crops with irrigation, 
but the river could not be depended upon 
to supply the water at the time it would be 
required. 

By looking away to the southward, the 
first glimpse is obtained of a peculiar 
sharp needle-pointed rocky butte, which in 
general formation is found in our travels 
only on the Gila Desert, where they are 
very numerous. These buttes are of volcanic 
formation, completely isolated, many of 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



249 



which rise abruptly from the plain to an 
altitude of 2,000 feet. In color, they vary 
from dark brown to black, and in genera 1 
appearance resembling iron slag. Soine 
of these buttes take the form of narrow 
"hog-back" ranges, very sharp, and very 
steep, extending several miles. The views 
between the buttts or ridges are on a level 
with the plain and extend as far as the eye 
can reach ; where they overlap each other ; 
the appearance is like one continuous 
range. 

From Gila City, it is 14 miles to 

Adoncle — a side track station, with 
one building, several tents, and a big water 
tank. 

The railroad company have to haul all 
the water they use, on the first 150 miles of 
their road east of Yuma, in water-cars, 
from either Adonde or the Colorado River 
at Yuma. The water from the Colorado is 
preferred over that from Adonde, as the 
latter is strongly impregnated with alkali. 

Leaving Adonde we leave the Gila River 
far to the left, and will soon realize that we 
are fairly out upon a vast expanse of desert, 
inhabited solely by rattlesnakes, lizzards 
and owls, with an occasional woodpecker. 
Sage knolls, ironwood, mesquite, grease- 
wood, clay, and sand — the latter very heavj- 
— is now the rule, with an occasional bunch 
of white calette grass. The surrounding 
peaks are now prominent in all directions, 
on both sides of the river; many on the 
north side of the river are castellated and 
of peculiar sombre appearance. 

Passing several buttes close on the left, 
— between our train and the river — the 
largest of which is known as Antelope 
Peak, and along over a sandy waste, w r e 
approach Mohawk Summit, 26 miles from 
Adonde, but there is no station, no signs of 
life. This summit is simply a low pass in 
one ot those long, rocky, narrow ridges 
which here runs north and south, across 
our path. Just before reaching the summit 
our road is bridged over a dry sandy de- 
pression,which apparently,was once the bed 
of a broad stream of water. Along the banks 
are many trees, among which we notice 
the Paloverde, with its smooth, bright yel- 
low bark, otherwise much resembling the 
madrone tree heretofore described, non- 
wood is also to be seen as well as the " boss " 
cactus, in great numbers. (For description 
of the latter, see Annex, No. 62.) 

To the east of the summit, the evidences 
to prove that this country was once lighted 
by volcanic fires, are abundant. The whole 



surface of the country is covered or un- 
derlaid with lava. It crops out in every 
ravine, and at every cutting. Where the 
lava is exposed to the air, it is 'soft, and 
readily broken in pieces in the hands. By 
the action of the wind and rain much of 
the surface lava has become reduced to 
dust which covers the ground ; disagreeable 
at all times, but when wafted by a Gila 
zephyr is terribly annoying. 

Texas Hill — a side track, is 7.6 miles 
east of the summit, and 21.3 mdes to 

Stanwix— a small side track, from 
which it is 34 miles to 

Gila Bend — and 40 miles further to 
the end of the track at 

Maricopa— May 10th, 1879. Pas- 
senger trains from San Francisco arrive at 
6 o'clock p. m., and leave at 7 o'clock a. 
m. daily. This town of Maricopa, located 
as it is in the center of great mineral 
wealth, the distributing point for a vast 
region of country, is destined at an early 
day to become one of much prominence. 

Distances: — Maricopa to Yuma, 156 
miles ; to Los Angeles, 404 miles ; to San 
Francisco, 890 miles ; to Phcenix, 30 miles ; 
to Florence, 50 miles; to Tucson, 125 
miles; to Prescott, 130 miles; to Masilla, 
K M., 130 miles ; to Santa Fe, N. M., 
about 486 miles ; to El Paso, Texas, 441 
miles ; to Fort Worth, Texas, the western 
end of the Texas & Pacific Railroad, 1,091 
miles. Stages leave Maricopa daily for 
Phoenix and Prescott, Florence and Tuc- 
son; fare, about 15 cents per mile. The 
distance by stage will be correspondingly 
shortened as the railroad is extended, a 
work which is being done rapidly. 

We are told it is the intention of the 
Southern Pacific Company to complete 
their road to Tucson, by January, 1880, 
and to El Paso, by 1882. Can you doubt 
their ability, particularly when it is known 
that J. H. Strowbridge, the hero ot ten 
miles of track in one day, is in charge, with 
James Campbell, as of yore, chiet of staff? 

For further information in regard to 
Arizona mines, etc., see Annex No. 64. 

The Pioneer Excursion Train — a 
five days' trip — between San Francisco 
and Maricopa, will leave San Francisco 
May 10th, at 10 a. m. and arrive at Mari- 
copa the third day at 6 a. m. Returning, 
visit Santa Monica, and arrive at San 
Francisco at 8:45 the sixth day. Fare, 
round trip, including sleeper, $40. 






-A- 3ST 3ST E X . 



In order not to encumber the body of this work with matters that do not directly 
pertain to the main points at issue, the author has originated an " annex," wherein the 
reader will find a mass of information which has been prepared with great care, and 
embraces condensed descriptions and statistical information gathered from the best 
sources. To these points the reader is frequently referred, throughout the work, by a 
number to correspond with the annex sought. The numbers at the bottom of the large 
illustrations, which begin at the first of the book , will be found to correspond with 
those in the annex, giving a description of the same, and,vice versa. 



Xo. 1 Annex American Progress.— 

This beautiful picture, which is No. 1 of our 
large views, ;'s purely national in design, 
and represents the United States' portion 
of the American Continent ; the beauty 
and variety, from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
Ocean, illustrating at a glance the grand drama 
of Progress in the civilization, settlement, and 
history of this country. 

In the foreground, the central and principal fig- 
ure, a beautiful and charming female, is floating 
westward through the air, bearing on her forehead 
the " Star of Empire." She has left the cities 
of the East far behind, crossed the Alleghanies 
and the " Father of Waters,'" and still her course 
is westward. In her right hand she carries a book- 
common school— the emblem of education and the 
testimonial of our national enlightenment, while 
with the left hand she unfolds and stretches the 
slender wires of the telegraph, that are to flash 
intelligence throughout the land. On the right of 
the picture, is a city, steamships, manufactories, 
schools and churches, over which beams of light 
are streaming and filling the air— indicative of 
civilization. The general tone of the picture on 
the left, declares darkness, waste and confusion. 
From the city proceed the three great continental 
lines of railway, passing the frontier settler's rude 
cabin and tending toward the Western Ocean. 
Next to these are the transportation wagons, 
overland stage, hunters, gold-seekers, pony ex- 
press, the pioneer emigrant, and the war-dance of 
the " noble red man.''' Fleeing from k ' Progress,'''' 
and toward the blue waters of the Pacific, which 
shows itself on the left of the picture, beyond the 
snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevadas, are 
the Indians, buftalo, wild horses, bears, and other 
game, moving westward— ever westward. The 
Indians, with their squaws, pappooses, and 
" pony-lodges,' 1 '' turn their despairing faces toward 
the setting sun, as they flee from the presence of 
the wondrous vision. The "Star 11 is too much 
for them. What American man, woman or child, 
does not feel a heart-throb of exultation as they 
think of the glorious achievements of Progress 
since the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers, on 
staunch old Plymouth Rock ! 

This picture was the design of the author of the 
Tourist— is National, and illustrates, ir> the 
most artistic manner, all those gigantic resuus of 
American brains and hands, which have caused 
the mighty wilderness to blossom like the rose. 



No. & Annex. Passagf Ticket Memoranda. 



No. 3 Annex. Baggage Check Memoranda. 



-AIETIETIEIX:. 



No. 4 Annex.— RATES OF FARE 



251 





lift Class 


|2d Class. 


lEmigr't. 


New York to San Francisco, California 

Philadelphia to " " 

Baltimore kk " " 


Si 38 OU 
136 00 

135 50 

142 85 
139 70 

143 00 

123 85 
119 85 
116 (0 
116 00 

7 70 
14 55 
22 15 
35 00 

41 10 

42 75 
31 00 
45 00 
45 00 
45 00 
4") 00 
3J 20 
77 50 
79 50 

105 00 
105 00 
105 00 
79 25 
85 00 

119 50 

124 50 

124 00 

125 00 
125 00 
1J5 00 

136 00 
143 00 
125 00 

94 35 

95 00 

98 00 
101 50 

99 00 
100 00 
100 00 
100 00 

120 00 
127 00 
131 00 
100 00 
100 00 


105 00 
104 00 

103 50 
110 00 

104 00 
103 25 

96 00 
93 35 
88 00 
88 00 


$65 00 
63 50 
63 00 


Boston " " " 

Montreal " " " 


66 00 
P6 00 
70 75 
63 50 


New Orleans ,k " M ... 

Cincinnati " " " 


Indianapolis u " " 


59 75 
55 50 
55 50 


Chicago " " " 

St. Louis " " u 

Omaha to Grand Island, Nebraska 


41 " North Platte, kk 






" " Sidney, " 






" " Denver, Colorado 


30 00 

35 00 

36 C5 
24 00 


20 00 


" " Colorado Springs, Colorado 


24 00 


u " Pueblo, Colorado 


24 40 


" " Cheyenne, Wyoming 

" " Custer City, Black Hills, via Stage from Sidney 

" " Custer City, " kk '• Cheyenne 


25 00 ' 




25 00 


" " Deadwood " " " Sidney 




25 00 


" " Deadwood, " " " Cheyenne 




25 00 


" " Laramie, Wyoming 




" Ogden, Utah 


60 00 
6^ 00 
90 00 
90 00 
90 00 

61 75 
67 50 

108 50 

113 50 

113 50 

113 50 

113 50 

113 50 

119 50 

118 00 

100 00 

75 00 

75 00 

75 00 

78 50 

75 00 

75 00 

75 00 

75 00 

95 00 


^0 00 


" Salt Lake City, Utah 


42 00 


" " Virginia City, Montana, via Stage from Franklin 


45 CO 


" " Deer Lodge, kk " kk " 


45 00 


" kk Helena, " " " kk 


45 00 


" " Corinne, Utah 


41 75 


" " Kelton, " 


45 00 


kt " Boise City, Idaho, via Stage from Kelton 


80 00 


" " Silver City, " M " kk kk 


80 00 


" " Baker City, Gregon, " " kk " 

" WallaWal^Wash'n " " " " 

" " Umatilla, Oregon M ',' •' " 

" " Dalles, " " " " " 


80 00 
80 00 
80 00 
80 00 


ki ■' Portland, " " " " " 

" " kk " kk " kk Redding 


80 00 
88 00 


kk kk kk kk - k kk St'mrfm San Fran'co 
kk ki Elko, Nevada 


57 00 
45 00 


,k ,k Reno, Nevada 

" " Virginia City, Nevada, via V. & T. R. R. from Reno 

kk ' k True kee, Nevada 


45 00 
45 00 
48 50 
45 00 
45 00 


k k> Sacramento, kk 


45 00 


kk kk Stockton, kk 


45 00 


kk kk Los Angeles, Cal., all Rail via Lathrop. 


55 00 


kk kk Santa Barbara, Cal., via Rail and Stage from Lathrop 

kk u San Diego, kk " kk 4k kk kk 4k 








kk kk San Jose, California 

kk kk San Francisco, California I 


75 00 
75 00 


45 00 
45 00 



Cars cannot be chartered for carrying passengers ; each person must be provided with a 
Ticket. 



Hfo. 5.— Annex. 

OUR WESTERN COUNTRY. 



Past and Present— This country can no 
longer be spoken of as the " Far West," as that 
land is generally conceded to lie nearer sundown, 
or at least beyond the Rocky Mountains. Ne- 
braska, which we enter on crossing the river, so 
lately opened up to the world, and so lately con- 
sidered one portion of the " Wild West," forms 
now one of our central States. It possesses a 
genial climate, good water, and a fair supply of 
timber, and the broad prairies of the eastern por- 
tion of the State are dotted with well-cultivated 



and well-stocked farms, that greet the eye of the 
traveler in every direction, while on all sides may 
be seen the evidences of thrift and comfort-found 
only in a farming region. Wheat, oats and corn, 
yield luxuriant returns, and all kinds oi fruits 
and garden vegetables incidental to this latitude, 
can be grown in profusion. Rarely will the trav- 
eler find a more magnificent scene, and more sug- 
gestive of real wealth and prosperity, than can be 
seen on these broad prairies, when the fields of 
yellow grain or waving corn are waiting for the 
haresters. Miles and miles awav stretrh the 
undulating plains, far— aye, farther than the eye 
can see. 



252 



.A. 1ST IN" IE X, 



In rapid succession we pass the better residence 
of the "old settler,' 1 with his immense fields of 
grain and herds of stock, on beyond the boundaries 
of earlier settlements ; and now we reach the rude 
cabin of the hardy settler who has located still 
"farther west," and here, within a few years, will 
arise a home as attractive as those we have left 
behind, surrounded with orchards, gardens and 
flocks. Here, too, will the snug school-house be 
found, and the white church with its tapering 
spire, pointing the people to the abode of Him 
who hath so richly blessed his children . There is 
beauty on every hand. The wild prairie flowers, 
of a thousand different hues and varieties, greet 
the eye at every step; and the tiniest foot that 
ever trod Broadway could scarce reach the ground 
without crushing the life from out some of 
these emblems of purity. And when the cooling 
showers have moistened the thirsty earth, or when 
the morning dew is spangling flower, vine and 
tree, there is more of quiet, graceful beauty— more 
of that spirit floating around us which renders 
man more human, and woman nearer what we 
desire her to be, than can be found within the 
walls of any city. Long will the memory of these 
scenes remain impressed on the mind of the trav- 
eler who admires nature in all her phases. 

For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and 
Ohio were supposed to contain the wheat-grow- 
ing soil of the Union, and they became known as 
the " Granaries of the States . " But those " gran- 
aries " have pushed themselves a little "farther 
west, 1 ' if we may be allowed to use the expression. 
Nebraska has retained a portion of the name ; 
California and Oregon took the remainder. .Ne- 
braska annually produces a large surplus of wheat 
and corn, which finds its way eastward. With 
the advantages possessed by this State; with a 
water-front of several hundred miles on a stream 
navigable the greater portion of the year; with 
the grandest railroad on the continent traversing 
her entire breadth; with all the resources of com- 
merce at her command: with unlimited watei 
power for manufactures, it will be strange, indeed, 
if Nebraska does not sustain her high rank in the 
great family of States. 

From our present stand-Doint the quotation, 
"Westward the Star op Empire Takes Its 
Wat, 1 ' must apply to 

The Far West— How often that sentence 
has been quoted, those who are the most iamiliar 
with the growth of our western possessions 
can best remember. So often has it been ut- 
tered, that it has passed into a household word, 
and endowed its innocent and unsuspecting 
author with an earthly immortality. From the 
boyhood days of that reliable and highly re- 
spectable individual, the "Oldest Inhabi- 
tant" of any special locality in the "Eastern 
States, 11 it has formed the heading — in large or 
small caps — of nearly every newspaper notice 
which chronic 1 ed the fact that some family had 
packed the'r household goods and gods (mostly 
goods) and left their native land of woods, rocks, 
churches and school-houses, to seek a home 
among the then mythical prairies of the "Far 
West. 1 ' But oh ! in later years, how that quotation 
ran across the double columns of these same 
papers in all conceivable forms of type, when 
the fact was chronicled that one of our West- 
ern Territories was admitted as a State into the 
Union. 

Well, but where was your "Far West 1 ' then, 
where people went when they had " Westward, 
ho! " on the brain? asks one, who speaks of the 
West as that part of our country which lies be- 
tween the summit of the Rocky Mountains and 



the waters of the Pacific Ocean? Well, ihe " Far 
West 11 of that time, that almost mythical region, 
was what now constitutes those vast and fertile 
prairies which lie south and west of the great 
Jakes, and east of and bordering on the Mississippi 
River. All west of that was a blank; the home of 
the savage, the wild beast, and all unclean things 
—at least so said the " Oldest Inhabitant. 11 

But our hardy pioneers passed the Rubicon, 
and the West receded before their advance. Mis- 
souri was peopled, and the Father of Waters be- 
came the great natural highway of a mighty com- 
merce, sustained in equal parts by the populous 
and newly made States lying on both its banks, 
which had been carved out of the " Far West M by 
the hands of the hardy pioneers. 

Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, 
Missouri and Iowa, had joined the sisterhood, 
and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It tra- 
versed the trackless desert, scaled the Rocky 
Mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon. 
But it passed not by unheeding the rich valleys 
and bioad prairies of Nebraska, which retained 
what became, with subsequent additions, a per- 
manent and thriving population. Then the yel- 
low gold, which had been found in California, 
drew the tide of emigration thitherward, and in a 
few years our golden-haired sister was added to 
the number comprising the States of the Union. 

Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, Kan- 
sas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and, later, 
c olorado, and still we have Dakota, Idaho, Mon- 
tana, Washington, Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- 
ico Territories, to say nothing of Alaska, waiting 
the time when they too shall be competent to add 
their names to the roll of honor and enter the 
Union on an equality with the others. Thus we 
see that the " Far West 11 of to-day has become 
far removed from the West of thirty— or even ten- 
years ago, and what is now tue central portion of 
our commonwealth was then the Far, Far West. 

All is Changed— To-day the foam-crested 
waves of the Pacific Ocean bear on their bosoms a 
mighty and steadily increasing commerce. 
China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, 
South America, and the Orient are at our doors. 

A rich, powerful, populous section, comprising 
three States, has arisen, where but a few years 
since the Jesuit missions among the savages were 
the only marks of civilization. And all over the 
once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on 
the broad plains, are the scattered homes of the 
hardy and brave pioneer husbandmen ; while the 
bleak mountains— once the home of the savage and 
wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canyons, 
are illuminated with the perpetual fires of the 
'• smelting furnaces,' 1 the ring of pick, shovel and 
drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, 
all tell of the presence of the miner, and the 
streams of wealth which are daily flowing into our 
national coffers are rapidly increasing ; for, just in 
proportion as the individual becomes enriched, to 
does his country partake of his fortune. 

Condensed History— it is only a score of 
years ago since the Government of the United 
States, in order to better protect her citizens that 
had spread themselves over the wild expanse of 
country between the Missouri River and the Pa- 
cific Ocean, and from the Mexican on the south 
and the British possessions on the north, estab- 
lished a system of military forts and posts, extend- 
ing north and south, east and west, over this Terri- 
tory. Though productive of much good, they were 
not sufficient to meet the requirements of the 
times, and in many places settlers and miners 
were murdered with impunity by the Indians. 
Wise men regarded rapid emigration as the only 



J± 1ST 2sT IE -2C. 



253 



Bafe plan of security, and this could not be accom- 
plished without swifter, surer, aud cheaper means 
of transporting the poor, who would gladly avail 
themselves of the opportunity to possess a free 
farm, or reach the gold fields of the West. The 
railroad and telegraph — twin sisters of civilization 
— were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads 
in the plentitude of their wisdom, piously crossed 
themselves, and clasred with a firmer grasp their 
money bags, when Young America dared broach 
the subject, "Xo, sir, no; the thing is totally 
absurd; impracticable,sir; don't talk any more of 
such nonsense to me," they would reply, as they 
turned away to go to their church or to their stock 
gambling in Wall street— probably the latter occu- 
pation. But Young America did not give up to 
this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags ; 
and as the counties of the West grew and ex- 
panded under the mighty tide of immigration, 
they clamored for a safe and speedy transit be- 
tween them and their '•Fatherland.'" Government 
with its usual red-tape delays and scientific way of 
how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the 
red hand of War — of Rebelion— pointed out to it the 



stern necessity of securing, by iron bands, the fair 

of '" 
tic foe. 



dominions of the West from foreign or domes- 



Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others 
had long urged the necessity and practicability of 
the scheme, the wealth and power which would 
accrue to the country from its realization, the idea 
found favor with but few of our wise legislators 
until they awoke to the knowledge that even the 
loyal State of California was in danger of being 
abandoned by those in command, and turned over 
to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming 
in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective 
point; that foreign and domestic mechinations 
threatened the dismemberment of the Union into 
three divisions; not until all this stared them in 
the face could our national Solons see the practica- 
bility of the scheme so earnestly and ably advocated 
by Sargent of California and his able coadjutors in 
the noble work. To this threatened invasion of 
our Western possessions, what had Government to 
offer for successful defense? Nothing but a few 
hall-finished and illy-manned forts around the bay, 
and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- 
der this pressure was the charter granted; and it 
may truly be said that the road was inaugurated 
by the grandest carnival of blood the world has 
ever known ; for, without the pressure of the re- 
bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- 
day. Although the American people had been 
keenly alive to the importance oi a speedy transit 
between the two extremes of the Continent ever 
since the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope, 
up to this time the old, vague rumors of barren 
deserts, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- 
ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild 
savage, made the idea seem preposterous. Even 
the reports of the emigrants could not convince 
them to the contrary ; nor yet the reports of the 
Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route 
to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, 
that, for over 700 miles the road follows v* ry closely 
their survey. 

Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of 
tne people regarding the impracticability of the 
scheme, after the road, had became a national ne- 
cessity—a question of life and unity of the Repub- 
lic. The great work has been accomplished, and 
to-day the locomotive whiils its long train, filled 
with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that 
region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim, 
undefined, mythical land, composed of chaos, and 
the last faint efforts of nature to render that cha- 



otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. 
How great the change from the ideal to the reai 1 
For three hundred miles alterleaving Omaha, that 
vague " Great American Desert " proves to be as 
beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can 
be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- 
tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater 
the changes through which our country has passed 
during the period from the commencement to the 
ending of our proudest national civil record, save 
one. We live in a fast age; the gentle breeze of 
to-day was the tornado ot fifty years ago. 

In noting the history of the Continental railroad 
we must speak of the attempts in that direction 
which had been made by other parties , Missouri, 
through her able and liberal legislature, was the 
first State to move in the construction of a na- 
tional or continental railroad . The Legislature of 
that State granted a charter, under which was in- 
corporated the Missouri and Pacific Railroad Co. , 
who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, 
southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the 
Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- 
sixth parallel to Santa Fe, New Mexico. From 
Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys 
were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, 
this road would undoubtedly have been completed 
long ere this; good authorities placing the limit 
at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- 
tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed the 
Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through 
Southern, hostile territory, Government could not 
aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- 
quently the work was suspended. The States of 
Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, 
proposed to assist the work, by constructing a 
railroad from Little Rock, to connect with the M. 
&P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and 
one hundred and second degree of longitude, and 
for that purpose a charter was granted. 

Organization of the Pacific Rail- 
road—The evident, and we might add, the im- 
perative necessity of connecting the East and 
West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged 
the corporators of the great trans-continental line 
to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- 
ures were devised and laidbefore the people, but the 
supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, 
and other natural obstacles to be encountered, 
caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our 
energetic people to commence the great work. To 
attempt to lay the iron rail through vast tracts of 
unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile 
tribes of savage nomads; to scale the snow-clad 
peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- 
comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for 
even the American people to accomplish. But the 
absolute importance, the urgent necessity of 
such a work, overcame all objections to the 
scheme, and in 1862 Congress passed an act, which 
was approved by President Lincoln on the first day 
of July of that year, by which the Government 
sanctioned the undertaking, and promised the use 
of its credit to a'd in its speedy completion . The 
act was entitled '-An act to aid in the construc- 
tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- 
souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to 
the Government the use of the same for postal, 
military, ani other purposes. 1 ' 

Land <*rant— The Government grant of 
lands to the great national highway, as amended, 
was, every alternate section of land for 20 miles on 
each side of the road, or 20 sections, equaling 12,- 
8C0 acres for each mile of the road. By the Com- 
pany's table, the road, as completed, is 1,776 18- 
100 miles long from Omaha to Sacramento. This 
would give the companies 22,735,104 acres, divided 



254 



.A-Hstzlntieix:. 



as follows: Union Pacific, 13,295,104; Central Pa- 
cific, i 9,440,000. 

By mutual agreement between the Union and 
Central companies, made several years ago, Og- 
den, in Utah, has been decided upon as the 
"junction " of the two roads. 

In addition to the grant of lands and right of 
way, Government agreed to issue its thirty year six 
per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as 
follows: for the plains portion of the road, $16,- 
000 per mile ; for the next most difficult portion, 
$32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, 
$48,000 per mile. 

The Union Pacific Railroad Co. built 525 78-100 
miles, for which they received $16,000 per mile; 
363 602-1000 miles at »32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at 
$48,000 per mile, makioara total of $25,236,512. 

The Central Pacific Railroad Co. built 7 18-100 
miles at $16,000 per mile; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 
000 per mile ; 15U miles at $48,000 per mile, making 
a total of $25,885,120. 

The total subsidies for both roads amount to 
$52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- 
terest on the companies' 1 first mortgage bonds to 
an equal amount. 

Cost of construction, material, etc.— 
In the construction of the whole line, there were 
used about 300.000 tons of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish 
plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23,505,500 
spikes. 

Besides this, there was used an incalculable 
amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- 
ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost 
of the road with equipments complete by that of 
other first-class roads ($105,000), per mile and we 
have the sum of $186,498,900 as the approximate 
cost of the work. 

We have not had much to say heretofore in re- 
gard to the 

Importance of the Road— to the Ameri- 
can people, the Government, or the world at large, 
simply from the fact that it seemed to us, anything 
we might say would be entirely sujierjluous, as 
the incalculable advantages to all could admit of 
no possible doubt. We contented ourselves in an- 
nually calling attention to the vast extentof rich 
mineral, agricultural and grazing country opened 
U p_ a vast country which had heretofore been con- 
sidered worthless. We have pointed out, step by 
step, the most important features, productions, 
and advantages of each section traversed by the 
road; stated that the East and West were now 
connected by a short and quick route, over which 
the vast trade of China, Japan, and the Orient 
could flow in its transit eastward; and, finally, 
that its importance to the miner, agriculturalist, 
stock-raiser, the Government, and the world at 
large, few, if any, could estimate. 

To those who are continually grumbling about 
the Pacific railroad, and forget the history of the 
past, professing to think that these railroad com- 
panies are great debtors to the Government, we 
would most respectlully submit 

Facts in Brief.— On the 18th day of March, 
1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad 
was granted, while the country was in the midst of 
a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was 
most imminent— the Trent affair showed how i?n- 
minent—a,nd the country was straining every nerve 
for national existence, and capital, unusually 
cautious, Mr. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the 
House Committee on the " Pacific Railroad " 
(See Congressional Globe, page 1712, session 2d, 
37th Congress), said : 

" The road is a necessity to the Government. It 
is the Government that is asking individual cap- 
italists to build the road. Gentlemen are under 



the impression that it is a very great benefit to 
these stockholders to aid them to an extent of 
about half the capital required. I beg leave to call 
the attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the 
Government which is under the necessity to con- 
struct the road. If the capitalists of the country 
are willing to come forward and advance half the 
amount necessary for this great enterprise, the 
Government is doing little in aiding the Company 
to the extent of the other half by way of a loau.''' 
Again, (page 1,911)—" It is not supposed that in 
the first instance the Company will reimburse the 
interest to the Government; it will reimburse it 
in transportation.'" Mr. White said: ''I under- 
take to say that not a cent of these advances will 
ever be repaid, nor do I think it desirable that 
they should be, as this road is to be the highway 
of the nation. 1 ' 

In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 
2,257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. 
Henry Wilson, from Mass., said: 

" I give no grudging vote in giving away either 
money or land. I would sink $100,000,000 to build 
the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I 
had done a great thing for my country. What are 
$75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad 
across the central regions of this Continent, that 
shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- 
cific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the 
lands, I don*t grudge them.'' 1 

Nine years later— after the road had been com- 
pleted nearly two years— Senator Stewart, from the 
Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- 
port to the U. S. Senate: 

" The cost of the overland service for the whole 
period— from the acquisition of our Pacific coast 
possessions down to the completion of the Pacific 
railroad— was over $8,000,0u0 per annum, and this 
cost was constantly increasing. 

"The cost, since the completion of the road, is 
the annual interest "—[which includes all the 
branches— Ed.]— $3,897,129— to which must be 
added one-half the charges for services performed 
by the company, about $1,163,138 rer annum, 
making a total expenditure of about $5,000,000, 
and showing a saving of at least $3,000,000 per 
annum. 

1 This calculation is upon the basis that none 
of the interest will ever be repaid to the United 
States, except what is paid by the services, and 
that the excess of interest advanced over freights 
is a total loss. 

" In this statement no account is made oi the 
constant destruction of life and private property 
by Indians; of the large amounts of money paid 
by the Secretary of the Treasury as indemnity for 
damages by Indians to property in the Govern- 
ment service on the plains, under the act of March 
3, 1849 ; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- 
vention of Indian wars, of the increased value of 
public lands, of the development of the coal and 
iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver 
mines of Nevada and Utah; of the value of the 
road in a commercial point of view in utilizing 
the interior of the continent, and in facilitating 
trade and commerce with the Pacific coast and 
Asia; and, above all, in cementing the Union and 
furnishing security in the event of foreign wars, 1 ' 
Remember that the Government by charter ex- 
acted that these companies should complete their 
line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhuman exertion, it 
was completed May 10, 1869— and the Government 
has had the benefit of the road seven years before 
the company were compelled by law to finish it. 

Now, if we take no account of the millions the 
Government saved during the building of the road 
—and at their own figures— the saving during the 



a. :et 2sr :e 



255 



seven years previous to 1876 has netted the Gov- 
ernment $21,000,000, besides paying the interest 
on the whole amount of bonds. 

Again, if it cost the Government, before the 
completion of the Pacific railroad, according to 
Mr. Stewart, " over $8,000,000 per annum, and 
this cost was constantly increasing' 1 '' how fast 
was this increase? Could it be less than six per 
cent, per annum? Should the figures be made on 
the basis of six per cent., the Government must 
have saved, previous to 1876, in the seven years 
that the line was completed— before the com- 
panies were compelled to complete it-over thirty 
millions of dollars. This, too, after the Gov- 
ernment deducts every dollar of interest on their 
o wn bonds issued to the companies to aid the con- 
struction of the road. 

The above are some few of the advantages of 
the Pacific railroad to the Government, and, con- 
sequently, to the country at large. 

The States and Territories on the line of the 
Union and Central Pacific railroads, or immedi- 
ately tributary to it, contained a population, in 
1860, of only 554,301, with 232 miles of telegraph 
line and 32 miles of railway. This same cope of 
country contained a population, according to the 
census of 187<>, of 1,011,971, and was encompassed 
by over 13,000 miles of telegraph lines and 4,191 
miles of railroads, completed, and many more in 
progress, in which was invested the enormous 
capital of $363,750,000. Add to the above the im- 
mense amount of capital invested— in quartz 
mills, smelting furnaces, development of mines, 
and other resources of the country, within the 
same ten years— then should we bring all the fig- 
ures down to the present times, the grand total 
would be comparatively an astonishing romance. 

Where, but a few years ago, the buffalo and 
other game roamed in countless thousands, and 
the savages skulked in the canyons, and secret 
hiding-place , where they could pounce out un- 
awares upon the emigrant; the hardy pioneers 
who have made the wilderness if not " to blossom 
like the rose, 11 a safe pathway for the present 
generation, by laying down their lives in the 
cause of advancing civilization, now are to be 
seen hundreds of thousands of hardy emigrants, 
with their horses, cattle, sheep, and domestic ani- 
mals; and ihe savages are among the things that 
have " moved on." 

Cirumblers— The great hue and cry that 
are made at times by the people and press of the 
country, in regard to "giving away the lands," 
"squandering the public domain," etc., which 
censure the Government for giving, and the rail- 
road company for receiving grants of land in aid 
of this road, are very surprising in view of the fore- 
going facts. We would like to know what the 
lands on the line of these railroads would be 
worth without the road? 

Did the Government ever sell any? Could the 
Government ever sell them? Never. It could 
not realize as much from a million of acres as it 
would cost their surveyors and land-agents for ci- 
gars while surveying and looking after them. 
When the Pacific road commenced, there was not 
a land office in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, 
Utah, or Nevada, and only one or two in each of 
the other States or Territories. On the other 
hand, by the building of the road, many millions 
of dollars have already found their way into the 
Government treasury, and at just double the usual 
price per acre.. These grumblers would place the 
Government in the position of the boy who wanted 
to eat his apple, sell it, qnd then get credit for 
giving it away. O ! how generous. 



Xo. 6 Annex. The High School at 
Omaha— an illustration of which we present 
on another page, stands on the site of the old 
State House of Nebraska, and is known as "Capi- 
tol Hill." It was completed in 1876, and cost 
$280,000. It is 176 feet long and 80 feet wide. 
The main spire rises 185 feet from the ground. 

The building is constructed in the most sub- 
stantial manner, which, for convenience, beauty 
in design, and finish throughout, has but few, if 
any, superiors in the western country. 

This High School has a contemporary, of the 
same name, in the city of Omaha, if a monthly 
newspaper— " a repository of refined literature and 
journal of education"— could be called such. 

" The High School" is, as the quotation above 
indicates, devoted to pure literature and educa- 
tional purposes, eschewing sensational journal- 
ism. Its essays, poems, fashion notes, college, 
university and high school reports, miscellaneous 
correspondence, and editorial reviews on all the 
live questions of the day, make it very desirable 
as a family journal, and specially interesting to 
young ladies and gentlemen. Nothing unrefined 
is ever allowed to appear in its columns. It is 
printed on fine book paper; price, $1 a year. 

Ko. 7 Annex. First Steam Train— 
The illustration given on page 70 was drawn and 
engraved from the original painting in the posses- 
sion of the Connecticut Historical Society, and 
represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk 
and Hudson R. R. from Albany to Schenectady, 
N. Y. , in 1831, the first steam train in America. 
The engine was the " The John Bull," imported 
from England, as well as the engineer, John 
Hampton, " expressly for this road at large ex- 
pense." Her cylinder was 5Vz inches, 16 inch 
stroke, wheels 4 l / 3 feet. The boilers had thirty 
copper tubes, five feet long, four inches in diame- 
ter. Connecting rods are worked on double cranks 
on front axle. Weight of engine complete, 4 tons. 
The tender represents the method of' carrying the 
fuel— wood— in barrels, with a few sticks handy 
for immediate use. The cars were regular stage 
bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- 
sion trial trip were sixteen persons, who were 
then thought venturesome, many of whom have 
since filled important positions in the councils ol 
the country. Mr. Sidney Billon, President of the 
Union Pacific R. R., it seems, was one of the ad- 
venturous few. Here is food for thought and com- 
parison with the improvements of the "present day. 

Xo. 8 Annex. The Madrone Tree— 
This peculiar tree can be seen in many parts 
of California, particularly on excursions, des- 
cribed in Nos. 4 and 5. It sheds its bark in the 
fall of the year, much the same as other trees 
their leaves. The tree after snedding its bark, 
has a bright salmon color, then turns gradually 
darker, until, at the shedding time the following 
year, the bark is quite dark. 

The Manzanita, which means in Spanish "lit- 
tle apple," a small shrub, also sheds its bark. It 
is found along the foot-hill ranges of California. 
The root is very tough, fire grained and polishes 
very beautifully. Many fine boxes, and handles 
for canes, umbrellas and parasols are made from 
the root of the Manzanita. 

Xo. 9 Annex. — "The Hand-book of Wyoming 
and Guide to the Black Hills and Big Horn Re- 
gions," by Robt. E. Strahorn, Esq., Cheyenne, 
Wyoming, 1877. This is a most invaluable work, 
describing a new and intensely interesting re- 
gion at this time. Mr. Strahorn has traversed 
the country he describes, and in the 270 pages 
will be found— an unusual thing these days— a vast 



256 



.A. INT INT !E 2C„ 



amount of new and original matter. Price, in 
full cloth, $1. 25; in paper covers, 75 cents. Sold 
on the trains. 

Wolfe's Business Directory of all the cities, 
towns and stations, on the line of the Union Pa- 
cific railroad, and on the line of nearly every 
other railroad in Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming 
and Utah, together with a vast amount of miscel- 
laneous information, collected and published for 
the first time. J. M. Wolfe, Publisher, Omaha, 
Neb. Price, $3.50. 

%W~ For a miscellaneous collection of old blood- 
curdling Indian stories, stale jokes, old plains 
yarns, together with a compilation of facts from 
previous volumes of our books, buy our imitator's 
book. For an additional list of books worth buy- 
ing, see Annex 51. 

Xo. lO Annex. Jack Slade— Virginia 
Dale was originally a stage station on the 
old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, 
and was laid out and kept by the notorious 
Jack Slade, who was division superintend- 
ent for the old CO. C. Stage Co., from 1860 
to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head 
of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- 
try, running off stock from the emigrants, and ap- 
propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted 
desperado, having, it is said, killed thirteen men. 
The last of his exploits, east of the mountains, 
was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, 
the person who gave his name to Julesburg. 
Slade had a quarrel wuh Jules in 1861, which 
ended in a sh oting scrape, wherein Slade was 
beaten— or, as their class would say, "forced to 
take water." In 1863 some of the drivers on the 
line, friends and employes of Slade's, decoyed 
Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North 
Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine 
Runnels, commonly known as "the Devil's left 
bower. 11 He was ;i great friend of Slade's, who 
appears to have rightfully earned tbe title of 
''right bower 1 ' to that same warm-natured indi 
vidual. The place where this tragedy occurred is 
50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below 
Fort Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- 
tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson station) 
in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the 
capture of his old enemy. He drove night and 
day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the 
morning. On alighting from the coach he foiibd 
Jules tied to a post in a coral, in such a position 
as to render him perfectly helpless. Slade shot 
him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill 
him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- 
ner, returning to the ranche for a "drink 11 between 
shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he 
would tell Jules just where he was going to hit 
him, adding that he did not intend to kill him 
imm diately; that he intended to torture him to 
death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade's 
friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. 
Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear 
from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol 
into his mouth, and at the twenty-th rd shot blew 
his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from 
his victim, and put them in his pocket. 

In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, 
he would take Jules 1 ears out of his pocket, throw 
them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the 
act, would demand the drinks ©n his bloody 
pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly 
after this exploit, it became too hot for him in 
Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From 
thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where 
he continued to prey upon society. The people 
in that country had no love or use for his kind of 
people, and after his conduct had become insup- 



portable, the Vigilantes hung him, as he richly 
deserved. 

His wife arrived at the scene of execution just 
in time to behold his dead body. She had ridden 
on horseback 15 miles for the avowed purpose of 
shooting Slade, to save the disgrace of having 
him hung, and she arrived on the scene with re- 
volver in hand, only a few minutes too late to exe- 
cute her scheme— Oack Slade, the desperado, was 
dead, and he died—" with his boots on." 

Xo. 11 Annex. Boulder Canyon— This 
large illustration— No. 4 — is noticeably wild and ro- 
mantic, i ven in a country where nature has been 
so productive of surprising scenery. On either 
side rise the lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2.000 feet in 
height, their sides covered with verdure, save in 
spots where the rocks stand forth in naked bold- 
ness. Througn the canyon rushes a noisy and 
turbulent stream, serving to enhance the attrac- 
tions and break the solitude. 

Through its whole extent, a distance of fifteen 
miles, the points of special interest vie with each 
other in attracting the attention of the beholder. 
Prominent among those are the " Falls 11 , and the 
" Dome. 11 The former are ten miles distant from 
Boulder City, (see page 55) on the North Fork, a 
few hundred yards from its junction with the Mid- 
d'e Boulder, whence they are reached by a roman- 
tic trail along the mountain side. 

Three miles up the canyon, and nearly encircled 
by it, rises the "Dome, 11 a solitary and majestic 
mass of granite, five hundred feet in height. The 
illustration is from a photograph by W. G. Cham- 
berlain, of Denver. 

Xo. 13 Annex. Hanging Rock of Clear 
Creek Canyon— as shown in our large view. 
No. 3, is at the point of entry into one of the 
grandest of nature's amphitheatres. It is an ex- 
ample of how man can utilize the sublime scenery 
of nature, and make even the canyons— which, 
struggling, have worn through almost impene- 
trable granite — the medium of communication be- 
tween regions that had once seemed almost im- 
penetrable. 

By almost incredible engineering skill, the bed 
for the railroad was cat out of the wall of solid 
granite, beside which flows Clear Creek; following 
its sinuosities, with the creek thundering below, 
and the walls of overhanging rock towering aloft 
to the height of from 1,500 to 2 000 feet above the 
road. If you want to see nature in all her wild 
sublimity, and art as the triumphant utilizer 
of her varied resources, you need not visit the 
Alps or Apenines, but go and see the grand scen- 
ery of Clear Creek Canyon of Colorado. See 
Page 59. 

Xo. 13 Annex. Snow Difficulties— The 
Central Pacific Company commenced the erection 
of snow-sheds at the same time with their track- 
laying over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and 
the result has been their trains have never been 
delayed as often or as long as on many roads in 
the Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and 
the necessities for snow-sheds over the Sierras 
were known, and could be guarded against, but 
further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- 
tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such 
necessity for protection against snow was thought 
to exist; hence the blockade of February and 
March, 1869. 

The Union Pacific Company immediately took— 
as was thought by everybody at the time— am- 
ple precautions to protect their cuts from the 
drifting snow, by the erection of snow-fences and 
snow-sheds at every exposed point, but the win- 
ter of 1871-2 proved to be one of unusual— un- 








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SAN FRANCISCO, THE GOLDEN GATE, AND SURROUNDING COUNTRY. (See Annex No. 46.) 



.a. 3sr nsr :e x:. 



257 



heard-of severity. The snow caused annoying 
delays to passenger and freight traffic, as well as 
costing the company a large amount of money to 
keep The road open. But the lesson taught was a 
good one in enabling the company to take such 
measures as were necessary to protect their road 
against all possible contingencies in the future, 
which they have done, by raising their track and 
building additional snow-sheds and fences. 

On the ''•Central'" there are nearly 50 miles of 
snow-sheds; one continuous of 28 miles in length. 
On the "Union" there are about 30 miles, and 
innumerable snow-fences. 

Xo. 14 Annex. Garden of the Gods— 
This large illustration, number five, is a bit of 
nature, among the wonders of the country where 
it is located. In the distance, Pike's Peak rises 
to view. (See further description on page 70 of 
this book.) 

Xo. 15 Annex. State Capitol of Cali- 
fornia—This is one of the first objects 
whidi meets the eye when approaching Sac- 
ramento from the east. It is a conspicuous 
landmark. The building occupies the center of 
four blocks, bounded by loth and 12th, and 
by L and N streets. The grounds form three ter- 
races, slightly elevated above each other, and con- 
nected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly 
laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, 
closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are in- 
terplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The 
outer border of the lowest terrace is studded with 
flowers. Its front is towards lOlh street, and is 
320 feet in length. Approaching it from this point 
you may regard it as a great central building, from 
which rites the lofty dome, and having on each 
side a large wing. A flight of granite steps, 25 
feet high by 80 ieet in width, leads to a front por- 
tico of ten columns, through which, and a large 
hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the 
center;; and from this, in each story, halls, ele- 
gantly arched, extend through the front and wings, 
the State offices being on either side. Five female 
figures ornament the front above the columns. 
The central one is standing, the remaining four 
are in sitting postures. Thev represent war, sci- 
ence, agriculture and mining. The wings form- 
ing the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the 
first or basement story. The north and south 
flanks cf the building form, respectively, the As- 
sembly and Senate chambers, the former being 
82x72, and the latter 72x62. In the rear center, a 
circular projection of 60 feet diameter forms the 
State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white 
granite, from neighboring quarries, and is sur- 
mounted by a cornice of the same. Above this 
the body of the main dome is surrounded by an open 
balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corin- 
thian columns and an equal number of pilasters. 
ibove this balcony the body of the dome is sup- 
ported by an equal number of ornamental pilas- 
ters. From these rises the great metallic dome 
From the top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted 
Corinthian pillars, which support the final or 
small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue 
of California. 

The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and 
masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which 
is of iron ornaments and brick work, is exceed- 
ingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under 
the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well 
known in California for its susceptibility to re- 
ceive a high polish. All the fir.-t floor doors are of 
walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sashes 
throughout the building. The stories are, respect- 
ively, 21 feet 6 inches, 20 feet and 18 feet in height. 



It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet 
of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet 
round in all the angles. Se large illustration 
Iso. 16. 

.No. 16 Annex. Castellated Rocks at 
Green River— As the subject of the laro-e 
illustration, No. 2, is described, on page 94 of the 
book, it will be unnecessary to repeat It here. 

No 17 Annex. Memories of Fort 
Bridger— which were handed to us by one of 
our Iriends, who was with the first party of sol- 
diers who arrived at the place where the fort now 
stands: 

" Early in the winter of 1857, on the 23d of No- 
vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak 
over the snow-covered ridges surrounding Bridger 
—a town with a significant name, but nothing but 
a name except an old stone building with the ap- 
pellation of fort attached to it, built by the Mor- 
mons, and surrounded by a small redoubt and 
chevaux defrise pierced for three six-pound moun- 
tain howitzers." 

"The U. S. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh 
and tenth Infantry, second dragoons, and four com- 
panies of the fourth artillery, the whole under 
command of Brigadier-General Albert Sidney 
Johnson, were on their way to Salt Lake City. 
The filth, under Major Buggies ; the seventh, un- 
der Colonel Morrison; the second dragoons, un- 
der Colonel Howe; the fourth artillery, under 
Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d of 
November, and established a camp ; while a part 
of the supply train accompanying the expedition, 
numbering at least 160 wagons, was behind, de- 
laved b> the heavy snows, entirely separated from 
the command, and forced to encamp about one 
mile f om each other on the Big and Little Sandy 
Rivers. " [Note — These streams are tributaries 
of Green River on the east, rising near South Pass, 
about 160 miles north of Bridger.] 

"While encamped there, a party of Mormons, 
under command of Orson Pratt, the generalissimo 
of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by one 
Fowler Wells, another formidable leader of the 
Mormon church militant, dashed in and sur 
rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, 
completely surprising the entire party, not one 
escaping to give the alarm. After taking the 
arms and equipments from the men, they gave 
them a very limited amount of provisions to last 
them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing 
them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty 
men, and then started them off in the wilderness 
to reach that place— about 1,000 miles distant— 
with no weapons other than their pocket knives 
with which to protect themselves against the In- 
dians, or to procure game when their limited 
supply of provisions should become exhausted. 
After accomplishing this soldierly, humane and 
Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, 
burning up everything which they could not carry 
away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, 
while those left to starve turned their faces east- 
ward. There were 230 souls in that despoiled 
party , only eight of whom ever reached the border 
settlements; the knife of the savage, and starvation, 
finishing the cruel work begun by the merciful 
Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth 
in June, 1858, bringing the sad intelligence of the 
fate of their comrades. 

" The loss of these trains necessarily cut short 
the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on 
short rations, and, to add to their horror, the beef 
cattle accompanying the expedition had nearlv 
all frozen to death, 'eaving but a few head in 
camp. 

" At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head 



258 



.a. nsr isr :e ix:. 



in one night ; the horses and mules dying in about 
an equal ratio. Before reaching Bridger, the 
dragoons were compelled to leave their saddles, 
which they buried in the snow, the horses being 
unable to carry them. The animals were com- 
pelled to subsist on sage-brush, for two-thirds of 
the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, 
they were compelled to remove snow several feet 
deep. The men had no other fuel; no water only 
as they melted snow, for three weeks before 
reaching Bridger. 

"When the news arrived at the camp that the 
trains were destroyed, the troops immediately be- 
gan to forage for anything that was palatable, well 
knowing that no supplies could reach them be- 
fore late in the spring. The snow was then, on an 
average, from six to seven feet deep, and the giime 
had mostly left the hills. The rations were imme- 
diately reduced one-half, but even this pittance 
failed on the 28th day of February, when one-quar- 
ter ration per man was issued, being the last of all 
their stores. Two 100-pound sacks of flour were 
secured by Major E. R. S. Canby, who gave for 
them $300 in gold. They were placed in his tent, 
which stood where the old flag-staff now stands, 
and he supposed his treasure secure. 

" But that night a party of men belonging to 
Company 1, 10th Infantry, commanded by Lieuten- 
ant Marshall, made a coup d'etat on tbe tent, 
pulling out the pins and throwing the tent over 
the astonished Major, but securing the flour, with 
which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- 
ceeded in hiding it about a mile from camp, in 
the sage-brush. All was confusion. The long- 
roll was beaten ; the troops turned out and an- 
swered to their names, no one being absent. So 
the matter ended for the time. The next day, at 
guard mount, the Major commenced a personal 
search among the tents for his flour. He found— 
what ? In one tent, two men were cooking a piece 
of mule meat; in another, he found five men cut- 
ting up the frozen skin of an ox, preparatory to 
making soup of it, the only other ingredient to the 
savory mess being a little flour. Overcome by the 
sight of so mucii wretchedness, the Major sat 
down and cried at his inability to assist them. He 
asked the men if they could obtain nothing better 
to eat, and was answered in the negative. 

"The severity of the suffering endured by the 
men nearly demoralized them, still they went out 
foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the 
snow with great difficulty. Some would meet 
with success in their hunts at times ; others would 
not. The mules and horses were either killed and 
eaten by the men, or died of cold and hunger, 
which left them without the means of supplying 
their camp with wood, only as they hauled it 
themselves. But the men did not murmur. 
Twenty oi thirty would take a wagon and haul 
it five or six miles to the timber, and after loading 
it with wood, haul it to camp. Each regiment 
hauled its own wood, thus securing a daily supply. 
Some days a stray creature would be slain by the 
hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp 
once more. 

" Early in the spring of 1858 most of the men de- 
parted for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, 
D and K, of the 10 Infantry, and company F, 7th 
Infantry. Twenty-seven men from each company 
were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, 
to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On 
arriving in the pinery, they found an old saw mill 
and race, which had been used by the Mormons, 
and everything convenient but the necessary ma- 
chinery. Luckily the quarter-master's department 
had the required machinery, and soon they had a 
saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of 



of September, 1858, the quarters were up and 
r<.ady for use. They were large enough for five 
companies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler's 
store, guard house, etc. 

" The Fourth of July, 1858, was duly observed 
and honored. The flag-staff was raised in the 
center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by 
Major Canby, and prayers said by Major Gatlin. 

" On the 23d of September, 1858, a large train of 
supplies arrived, causing great joy among the 
troops. Two days later three long trains of sup- 
plies filed through the place on the way to Salt 
Lake City. 

Ko. 18 Annex. Hanging Rock, Utah. 
—See description on page 119 of this book. 

Wo. 19 Annex. Steamboat Rock— The 
large illustration, No. 6, is one of many beautiful 
views to be seen while passing through Echo and 
Weber canyons, Utah. From our point of view 
the appearance of Steamboat Eock is exceedingly 
perfect. The lines (seams in the rocks) run grace- 
fully up lor 300 or 400 feet, and in the sheen of the 
moon the sage-brush, dwarf cedars, and other 
bushes, growing along its upper crevices can 
easily be conjectured into a load of passengers 
worthy of the mighty vessel; but she stands in 
stone, and the ship carpenters— the elements — 
are steadily taking her timbers apart. 

Wo. 20 Annex. Paddy Miles' Ride- 
Mr. Miles, or " Faddy, 11 as he was familiarly 
called, was foreman to the Casement Broth- 
ers, who laid the track of the Union Pa- 
cific railroad. One morning, Paddy started 
down Echo Canyon with a long train of flat cars, 
sixteen in number, loaded with ties and iron rails 
for the road below Echo City, where were then, 
as now, the station, switches, etc. The reader 
will remember that from the divide to the mouth 
of Echo Canyon is heavy grade, no level place on 
which cars would slack their speed. 

The train had proceeded but a few miles down 
the canyon, going at a lively rate, when the en- 
gineer discovered that the train had parted, and 
four loaded cars had been left behind. Where the 
train parted the grade was easy, hence that por- 
tion attached to the locomotive had gained about 
half-a-mile on the stray cars. But when discov- 
ered they were on heavy grade and coming down 
on the train with lightning speed. What was to 
be done? The leading train could not stop to 
pick them up, for at the rate of speed at which 
they were approaching, a collision would shiver 
both trains, destroying them and the lives of 
those on board. 

There were two men, Dutchmen, on the loose 
cars, who might put on the brakes, and stop the 
runaway. The wnistle was sounded, but they 
heard it not; they were fast asleep behind the pile 
ol ties. On came the cars, fairly bounding from 
the track in their unguided speed, and away shot 
the locomotive and train. Away they flew, on, 
around curves and over bridges, past rocky points 
and bold headlands; on with the speed of th3 
wind, but no faster than came the cars behind 
them. 

" Let on the steam, 11 cried Paddy, and with the 
throttle chock open, with wild, terrible screams of 
the whistle, the locomotive plunged through the 
gorge, the mighty rocks sending back the screams 
in a thousand ringing echoes. 

" Off with the ties, 11 shouted Paddy, once more, 
as the whistle shouted its warning to the station- 
men ahead to keep the track straight and free, 
for there was no time to pause— that terrible 
train was close on to them, and if they collided, 



.A. IN" 2nT IE zx:. 



259 



the canyon would have a fearful item acided to 
its history. On went the train past the side- 
tracks, the almost frantic men throwing off the 
ties, in hopes that some of them would remain on 
the track, throw off the runaways, and thus save 
the forward train. Down the gorge they plunged, 
the terror keeping close by them, leaping along— 
almost flying, said one, who told us the tale- 
while the locomotive strained every iron nerve to 
gain on its dreaded follower. Again the wild 
scream of the locomotive of " switches open," 
rung out on the air and was heard and understood 
in Echo City. The trouble was surmised, not 
known, but the switches were ready, and if the 
leading train had but the distance it could pass 
on and the following cars be switched off the 
track, and allowed to spend their force against 
the mountain side. On shot the locomotive, like 
an arrow from the bow, the men throwing over 
the ties until the train was well-nigh unloaded, 
when just as they were close to the curve by 
which the train arrives at the station, they saw 
the dreaded train strike a tie, or something 
equally of service, and with a desperate plunee, 
rush down the embankment, into the little valley 
and creek below. "Down brakes," screamed the 
engine, and in a moment more the cars entered 
Echo City, and rvere quietly waitingon the side- 
track for further developments. The excited 
crowd, alarmed by the repeated whistli g, was 
soon informed of the cause of these screams, and 
immediately went up the track to the scene of the 
disaster, to bring in the dead bodies of the un- 
fortunate Dutchmen, who were surely crushed 
and torn in pieces. When they arrived at the 
scene of the disaster, they found the poor unfor- 
tunates sitting on the bank, smolurg their pipes 
and unharmed, having just woke up. The first 
they knew of the trouble was when they were 
pitched away from the broken cars on the soft 
greensward. The debris of car frames, wheels, 
and ties, gave them the first intimation they had 
received that something was the matter. 

STo. 21 Annex. <*reat Salt Lake— Be- 
hind the station at Promontory the hills rise into 
the dignity of mountains. To the top of the left 
hand point we strolled one bright, spring morn- 
ing. After an hour's toilsome walking through 
sage-brush and bunch-grass, then among sage- 
brush and rocks, until we had attained a height to 
which that persistent shrub could not attain, then 
among rocks, stunted cedars, tiny, delicate flowers 
and blooming mosses, until we stood on the sum- 
mit of the peak, on a narrow ridge of granite, not 
over four feet wide, and there, almost at our feet 
(so steep was the mountain) lay the Great Salt 
Lake, spread out like a vast mirror before us, its 
placid bosom glittering in the morning sun, like a 
field of burnished silver. Mile after mile it 
stretched away, placid and motionless, as though 
no life had ever caused a vibration of its currents, 
or given one restless impulse to its briny bosom. 

By the aid of the glass, Church or Antelope 
and other mountain islands could be distinctly 
seen, rearing their towering crests far above the 
silver border at their base, their sloping sides 
enrobed in the greenest of all green coverings. 
Standing there as lone sentinels in the midst of 
this waste of waters, they possess a wondrous 
beauty as a recompense for their utter isolation. 

Away beyond these islands rise the white- 
crested Wasatch Mountains, and we believe that 
we can pick out the curve in their brown sides 
where nestles Salt Lake City, secure and beautiful 
in her mountain fastness. Far away to the 
southward the range blends with the sky and wa- 
ter, and the dim, indistinct' lines of green, brown 



and silver blend in one, while above them the 
clear blue of the mighty dome seems to float and 
quiver for a space, and then sweeps down to join 
them, blending with them in one waving mass of 
vanishing color, which slowly recedes in the dim 
distance, until the eye can follow its course no 
farther. Turn now to the left, and there, sweep- 
ing uo far behind Promontory Point, is the north- 
western arm of the lake— Monument Bay. That 
long, green line is Monument Point, throwing its 
long ridge far out into the bosom of the lake, as 
though it would span the waters with a carpet of 
green. Away to the west Pilot Knob rears its 
crest of rocks from out the center of the great 
American Desert. Do not look longer in that 
direction, all is desolation; only a barren plain, 
and hard, gray rocks, and glinting beds of alkali 
meet the vision. 

One more view to the north, one look at the 
lines of green hills and greener slopes which 
sweep down toward the sandy, sage-clad plateau on 
which stands the station ; another and last look at 
the placid lake, and now, cooled and refreshed by 
the mountain breeze, we plurk a tiny moss bell 
from the cleft in the rock, and then descend the 
rugged mountain. We have seen Salt Lake from 
the most commanding point of view from the 
north, and now we are better able to understand 
its shape and comprehend its dimensions, which 
are 126 miles in length by 45 in width. The prin- 
cipal islands are Antelope (15 miles long), Sheep's 
Hot, Stansbury, Carrington and Egg. They pos- 
sess many charming summer retreats, many nat 
ural bathing places, where the gravelly bays in- 
trude among the grass-covered points and hil- 
locks. The water is so buoyant that it is difficult 
for the bather to sink therein. 

The lake has no outlet for the waters continually 
pouring into it from Bear, Jordan, Weber and 
other rivers. Evaporation absorbs the vast vol- 
ume, but it is a noticeable fact, and one worthy 
of consideration, that since the settlements have 
been made in the Territory, and the bosom of the 
earth has been turned with the plow, rendering 
the barren waste blooming and productive, that 
the waters of the lake have risen steadily, and are 
now 12 feet higher than they were 20 "years ago. 
Fences, which once enclosed fine meadow land, 
are now just peering above the flood, marking its 
steady encroachment on the fertile bottom lands. 
The grand old mountains bear unmistakable evi- 
dence of the water's presence far up their rocky 
sides. At what time the floods reached that alti- 
tude, or whether those mountains were lifted from 
the present level of the lake by volcanic action, 
and carried these water lines with them, are ques- 
tions no one can answer. Savans may give 
learned theories regarding things they know noth- 
ing of ; they may demonstrate that Salt Lake is 
held in its present position by immutable laws, 
but they cannot destroy the ocular evidence that 
it is rising, slowly and steadily, and has been dur- 
ing the last 20 years. 

Sfo. H2 Annex. For further information re- 
garding Salt Lake, see from pages 

No. 23 Annex. California— was first dis- 
covered in 1542, by a Portuguese, Juan B,. Cabrillo, 
while in the Spanish service. It was held 
by the Spanish then by the Mexican Govern- 
ment, until 1848, when by treaty it became 
a pori ion of the United States. It was admitted 
as a State in 1850. It covers an area of 160.000 
square miles, divided about equally into mining, 
agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. All 
kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables, grow in pro- 
fusion. The grape culture has occupied the atten- 
tion of many of her people, who find that they can 



260 



a. :et zsr jei x:. 



produce wine surpassed by none in this country, 
and few in the old. Large quantities are used 
throughout the United States, with a yearly in- 
creased shipment to European markets. Her 
manufactures are of a high order, and attract 
favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit 
of enterprise manifested by her citizens has de- 
served and won success. Under the liberal, far- 
seeing policy of the younger class of capitalists 
and merchants, who appeared about the time of 
the inauguration of the' great railroad, a new 
order of things arose. Men h j gan to regard this 
land as their future home, who, before this era, 
cared to stay no longer than while they obtained 
a fortune, which they expected to get in a few 
months at farthest. 

From this time, money expanded, trade, agricul- 
ture, mining and manufactures began to assume 
their proper stations. The old, narrow, ruinous 
no-policy, which marked the era of the old capit- 
alist, passed away, and a brighter era opened to 
the people of the Pacific slope. 

The Sierra STevada Mountains— are 
about 500 miles long, and from 60 to 100 miles in 
width, their general direction northwest and 
southeast. The height of the principal peaks are 
— Mt. Whitney, 15,088 feet; Williams, 14,500; 
Shasta, 14,444; Tyndall, 14,386; Raweah, 14,000; 
Gardner, 14,000; King, 14,000; Brewer, 13,886: 
Dana, 13,227; Lyell, 13,217; Castle Peak, 13,000; 
Cathedral Peak, 11,000; Lassen's, 10,578 feet. 

The Coast Range— is the range of moun- 
tains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the 
whole length of the State, broken at intervals 
with numerous small rivers, and narrow, fertile 
valleys. The principal peaks are-Mt. Ballery, 
6,357 ieet high; Pierce, 6,000; Hamilton, 4,450; 
Diablo, 3,876; Banch, 3,790; Chonal, 3.530; St. 
Helena, 3,700; Tamalpais, 2,604 feet. Mount St. 
Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range 
of that name, is 8,370 feet in height. 

The Rainy Season— on the Pacific coast is 
between the first of November and the first of 
May, the rain falling principally in the night, 
while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At 
Christmas, the whole country is covered with 
green grass ; in January with a carpet of flowers ; 
and in April and May with ripening fields of 
grain. During 15 years of observation the average 
has been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy days 
each year. The nights are cool the year round, 
requiring a coverlid during the hottest and dryest 
season. 

The State Agricultural Society of 
California — hold annual fairs in September. 
They are largely attended— visitors and exhibitors 
coming from all parts of the State, Nevada and 
Oregon. 

Statistical Items— We compiled the fol- 
lowing from the report of the San Francisco 
Board of Trade, for 1877, as interesting items : 

Wheat export, 200,000 tons, value, $11,750,000; 
Silver export to China, $10,500,000; mineral pro- 
duct of the Pacific Coast mines for 1877 : 

Gold $46,129,541 

Silver 47,205,913 

Lead 5,086,300 

$98,421,754 
E xport of Flour, 485,000 barrels ; value, $2,790,000. 
Export of barley, 166,500 centals; imports of 
coffee, 16,300,000 pounds ; imports of tea, 5,026,000 
pounds; imports of rice, 42,000,000 pounds; im- 
ports of sugar, 68.000,000 pounds; imports of coal, 
525,000 tons [135,000 from England and 120,000 from 
Australia]. Coal produced in California, 100,000 



tons; export of salmon, 156,000 packages, value 
$270,000; hides, 74,000; leather, 3,270 packages 
value, $172,000; wines, 925,000 gallons, value, $500,1 
000; receipts of quicksilver, 70,000 flasks: butter, 
16,500,000 pounds; receipts of cheese, 4,500,000 
?? UD ™ ; clip ofwo °^ 155,760 bags, weight 62,- 
225,000 pounds— the export amounted to 52,800.000 
Pounds. Gross exports by sea for the year 1877, 

Xo. 34 Annex. Hauling Ores in 

Hides -On a recent visit to Little Cottonwood 
Canyon, Utah, we saw a very novel contrivance 
being used by the Emma Mining Company, whose 
mine is situated j.bout l,000feet above the railroad 
depot, on the side of the mountains. The snow 
was several feet deep, and the ore was being hauled 
down to the depot in drags. The drags consisted 
of a green oz hide. The ore is first sewed up in 
sacks of 100 lbs. each, then placed on the hide, 
which has loops around the edge, and when 15 of 
these sacks are in position, a rope is run through 
the loops in the hide the edges drawn close togeth- 
er, then a mule or horse is hitched to the head 
portion of the hide— with the hair outwards— and 
a brake to the tail. The brake is of iron, shaped 
like a horse-shoe, with teeth that drag through 
the snow, holding back. 

In coming down the hill the driver stands on 
the hide, but when it becomes necessary on ac- 
count of heavy grade to " down brakes," the 
driver changes his position and stands on the 
horseshoe instead of the hide. 

Xo. £5 Annex. Rrighain Young — 
Brigham Young, President and Prophet of the 
Mormon " Church of the Latter Day Saints," was 
born in Whittingham, Windham countv, Vermont, 
on the first day of June, 1801. His father, John 
Young, was a Revolutionary veteran, and served 
three' campaigns under Washington. The family 
consisted of six daughters and five sons, of whom 
Brigham was the fourth. In early life he was 
connected with the Methodists, and at this time 
he followed the occupation of carpenter and 
joiner, painter and glazier. 

Young was first married in 1824, and in the 
spring of 1830 first saw the " Book of Mormon," 
which was in the possession of one of his brothers, 
and made a great impression upon him, and of 
which he afterwards became so firm a believer 
and prominent supporter. In April, 1832, he was 
baptized a member of the "Church of Jesus 
Christ of Latter Day Saints." 

Before becoming a Mormon, Brigham Young 
made himself thoroughly acquainted with their 
principles, and then clung to his belief in the teach- 
ings of the "Book of Mormon" with great tenacity 
to the close of his eventful life. It was character- 
istic of the man that he was deliberate in arriving 
at an opinion, but when it was once formed he 
was steadfast to his convictions. While Joseph 
Smith was alive, by whom he was baptized, he 
was his friend and firm supporter, and from the 
time when the church of his choice was composed 
of but a persecuted and insipient handful, fleeing 
from place to place, until the day of his death, his 
was the master-spirit that controlled all their de- 
liberations and ruled in all their prominent coun- 
cils. Brigham Young was the great organizer and 
master spirit that enabled them, by practical coun- 
cils and directions, to cross the wide and unknown 
desert plains of America in the year 1847, when pos- 
sessed of the scantiest resources, and establish 
among the far-off mountains of Utah Territory, a 
prosperous and thriving community. 

He was equal to the grand occasion of his life 
in rescuing the church from disorganization at 



A. IsT ICST IE IXI. 



261 



Nauvoo, in 1844, where he stepped to the front and 
took the helm. The good of the Church was al- 
ways his first and foremost consideration; he 
laid plans for its prosperity, and in their success- 
ful execution, he made vast sums of money for 
himself. Like all new organizations, especially 
those of an ecclesiastical character, there were 
many schisms aod rivals to be put down, and in 
doing away with these, he was frequently forced 
to take measures that drew down upon his head 
the odium of the outside world. With the same 
opportunities for becoming a tyrant and despot, 
with a large, ignorant element among his subjects, 
few men with the same tenacity of will, and force 
of character, would have bef-n less of an oppres- 
sor than the late Prophet priest and flevelator of 
the Mormon Church. 

President Young has taken a prominent part in 
all pub ic improvements, in every plan calculated 
to facilitate communication between the Territory 
and the Eastern States; materially assisting in 
forming several express companies and stage 
line*. He built several hundred miles of the 
Western Union Telegraph, graded 150 miles of the 
Union Pacific railroad, and nas ever offered his as- 
sistance to every enterprise of the kind which had 
a material bearing on the interests of Utah. 

He ditd r< greted and respected by his followers, 
and admired by the world at large, Wednesday, 
Aug. 29, 1877, in the seventy-sixth year of his age. 
His funeral took place on Sunday, September 2, 
1877, amid a great pupular demonstration, the body 
being viewed b> over 20,000 people. 

The following characteristic document, prepared 
by the diseased about four years previous to his 
death, contains his instructions for the conduct of 
the funeral obsequies. The paper was read by 
George Q, Cannon before the assembled multitude 
on the day of the funeral, and the instructions 
therein contained were carried out to the letter. 

"I, Brigham Young, wish my funeral services to 
be conducted after the following manner: 

When I breathe my last I wish my friends to put 
my body in as clean and wholesome state as can 
conveniently be done, and preserve the same for 
one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body 
can be preserved in a good condition. I want my 
coffin made of plump 1J4 inch redwood boards, not 
scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I 
would measure, and from two to three inches 
wider ihan is commonly made for a person of my 
breadth and size, and deep enough to place me on a 
little comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable 
pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in 
my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- 
fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I 
wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I 
should have plenty of room to do so ; the lid can 
be made crowning. 

At my interment I wish all of my family present 
that can be conveniently, and the male members 
wear no crape on their hatfc or their coats ; the fe- 
males to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, 
nor black veils ; but if tUey have them, they are at 
liberty to wear them. The services may be per- 
mitted, as singing and a prayer offered, and if any 
of my friends wish to say a few words, and really 
desire, do so; and when they have closed their 
service, take my remains on a bier and repair to 
the little burying ground which I have reserved on 
my lot east of the White House on the hill, and in 
the southeast corner of this lot have a vault built 
of mason work, large enough to receive my coffin, 
and that maybe placed in a box, if they choose, 
made of the same material as the coffin - redwood. 
Then place flat rocks over" the vault, sufficiently 
large to cover it, that the earth may be placed over 



it— nice, fine, dry earth— to cover it until the walls 
of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave 
me in the southeast corner. This vault ought to 
be roofed over with some kind of a temporary 
roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle 
rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- 
ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- 
ing with any one that I have done my work faith- 
fully and in good faith. 

I wish this to be read at the funeral, providing 
that if I should die anywhere in the mountains, I 
desire the above directions respecting my place 
of burial to be observed ; but if 1 should live to go 
back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish 
to be buried there. 

BRIGHAM YOUNG, 
President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter- 
day Saints. 

Sunday, November 9th, 1873. 
Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. 

Brigham Young will ever stand prominently for- 
ward on the pages of the world's history, as one of 
the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- 
tury, respected by his followers and admired by 
the world at large, whose vices and virtues will go 
hand in hand adown the stream of time. 

No. &6 Annex National Park— The ex- 
plorations of Dr. Hayden, United States Geol- 
ogist, have demonstrated that this, our own coun- 
try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, 
grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those 
of any other portion of the known world. The 
result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. 
ting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 miles in ex- 
tent as a great National Park, or mammoth 
pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment 
of the people. The entire area within the limits 
of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. 
Almost in the centre of this tract is located the 
Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles 
in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The 
ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- 
leys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 
000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetual 
snow. 

This country presents the most wonderful vol- 
canic appearance of any portion of this conti- 
nent. The great number of hot springs and the 
geysers represent the last stages— the veLt or es- 
cape pipes— of these remarkable volcanic mani- 
festations of the internal forces . All these springs 
are adorned with decorations more beautiful than 
human mind ever conceived, and which have re- 
quired thousands of years for the cunning hand 
of nature to form. The most remarkable of these 
geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 
feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 
feet. This display is continued for hours to- 
gether, and so immense is the quantity of water 
discharged, that during the eruption, the volume 
of water in the river is doubled. Another throws 
a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a 
foot in diameter. It is said the geysers of Iceland, 
which have been the objects of interest for scien- 
tists and travelers of the entire world for years, 
sink into insignificance in comparison with 
the Hot Springs of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole 
Basins. 

The most wonderful story about this remark- 
able region is told by Langford, one of the first 
discoverers. He says : "At a certain point on the 
Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep 
and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, 
which has become so smooth from the velocity 
of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of 
twenty miles, the friction becomes so great that 



262 



_A_ IL>r 1ST E 1X1. 



the water is boiling hot.'" We do not vouch ior 
the truth of this story, and we are not certain that 
Langford will swear to it. 

The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake 
rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, 
except in two directions, is unbroken. To the 
west and southwest are breaks in the chain, 
through one of which appear the outlines of a 
conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. 
In the mountain system which surrounds the lake 
are born the tributaries, almost the principal 
sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- 
tinent. Four of the most important tributaries 
of the Missouri— namely, the Big Horn, the Yel- 
lowstone, the Madison and the Gallatin, have 
their springs here. Flowing first north, then 
east, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, 
flows southeasterly to the Mississippi "Valley, 
where its waters are blended with the stately 
stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 miles 
below into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake River, 
whose sources are actually interlaced with those 
of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- 
ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of 
territory before it joins the Columbia on its way 
to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, 
rising but a few miles from the sources of the 
others, seeks the Colorado of the (south, which, 
after innumerable windings through deserts, and 
a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the 
abysses of canyons surpassing even those of the 
Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, 
reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the 
lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- 
plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest 
water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into 
one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific ; a 
pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve 
of the Atlantic Ocean. It is a thought to cause 
the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place 
to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, 
Nos. 35 and 36.) 

Xo. 37 Annex. Ocean Steamships.— 
The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, 
between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San 
Francisco about the 15th of each month. The 
passage rates are : 



Payable in U. S. 
Gold Coin. 



San Francisco to 

Yokohama, Japan, 
Hiogo, " 

Nagasaki, •' 
Shanghae, China, 
Hongkong, " 
Calcutta, India, 





0> 


o 


00 . 


bl) 


CD 


o3 rt 




c3 










J53 0> 


£3 

3 


* 


H 


o 


$250 00 


$ 85 00 


$53 00 


270 00 


100 00 




290 00 


100 00 


62 00 


300 00 


100 00 


65 00 


300 00 


100 00 


53 00 


450 00 







So 



O 08 

d <-> 
Am 

Miles. 
4,764 
5,104 
5.444 
5,964 
6,384 
9,385 



Children under 12 years of age, one-half rates ; 
under five years, one-quarter rates: under one year, 
free. 

Family Servants, (European) eating and sleep- 
ing in European steerage, one-half cabin rates ; 
eating in cabin and sleeping in European steer- 
age, three-quarters cabin rates; eating and sleep- 
ing in cabin, full cabin rates. 

250 lbs. baggage allowed each adult, first-class 
or cabin passenser ; 150 lbs. each, European steer- 
age; 100 lbs. each, Chinese steerage: proportion- 
ate to children. 



^P" Round Trip Tickets, good for twelve 
months, will be sold at a reduction of 12K per 
cent, from regular rates. 

An allowance of 20 per cent, on return passage 
will be made to passengers who paid full fare to 
Japan or China, or vice versa, re-embarking within 
six months from date of landing, and an allowance 
of 10 per cent, to those who return within twelve 
months. 

Families whose fare amounts to four full 
passages will be allowed 7 per cent, reduction. 

Exclusive use of staterooms can be secured by 
the payment of half-rate for extra births. 

The Pacific Mail steamships leave San Fran- 
cisco about the 1st of every month, for Yokohama 
and Honkong, and for Sidney and Aukland via 
Honolulu, at about the same time— 1st of each 
month— and for New York, via Panama, about the 
1st and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B. C. 
Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the 10th, 
20th and 30th of each month. 

The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers to 
Portland from San Francisco every five days. 

Other steamers for up and down the coast, leave 
at changeable intervals ; about weekly, however. 

Xo. 28 Annex. Col. Hudnut's Survey. 
—On the west side of Promontory Point, the line 
known as Colonel Hudnut's survey of the Idaho 
and Oregon branch of the U. P. R. R., passes north 
to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft 
River to Snake River, and along the southern 
bank of this stream to Old's Ferry; thence across 
the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia River. 
For the entire distance between Promontory and 
Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not 
barren. From thence the route passes through a 
country abounding in fertile valleys and bold 
mountains— the latter well-wooded. There is 
plenty of wood and other materials for building 
the proposed road along the whole length of the 
line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- 
tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the 
line is varied, from smiling, fertile valleys to lofty, 
snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the 
general characteristics of the route and of one or 
two points of remarkable interest. The main 
feature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its 
majestic cataracts. The stream, sometimes called 
Lewis River, is the South Fork of the Columbia, 
and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- 
tured westward of the Rocky Mountains in 1804. 
It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's 
Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divides 
Idaho and Wyoming Territories. The headwaters 
of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and 
Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of 
Lyon's and Barret's lakes on the north. The gen- 
eral course of the river from its source to Big 
Bend is northwest. At this point Henry's Fork, 
a large stream flowing from the the north, empties 
its waters into the main river. Thence the course 
is southwesterly until the first falls are reached— 
about 400 miles from the river's source. These 
are called the American Falls and are very fine, 
but do not present so sublime an appearance as 
will be seen about 100 miles iurther down the 
river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of 
Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Sho- 
shone Falls, from 30 to 60 feet high, closing the 
scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. 
The width of the river at the point of taking the 
last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the falls is 
circular— somewhat like those of the Niagara. Be- 
fore the river reaches the cascades it runs between 
lofty walls, which close in around it until but a 
narrow sorge is left for the passage of the water 



.A. 1ST ZST IE 2C. 



263 



1,000 feet below the tope of the bluffs. The most 
complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- 
out Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects 
from the main bluffs a short distance down the 
stream from the falls. From this point Eagle 
Rock rises before us in the midst of the rapids, and 
almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high ; 
its pillar-like top surmounted by an eagle's nest, 
where, year after year, the monarch of the air has 
reared its young. Near the center of the river are 
eeveral islands covered with cedar, the largest one 
being called Ballard's Island. Two rocky points, 
one on either side of the falls, are called the Two 
Sentinels. Excepting in point of the volume of 
water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- 
agara. 

From this point the river runs nearly west until 
it reaches War iiagle Mountains, about 80 J miles 
from its source, when it turns due north, follow- 
ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again 
tothewebt it unites with Clark's River, forming 
the Columbia. After leaving the last falls the 
country is les« broken, and the work of building 
the road would be comparatively light for most of 
the way. 

Ko. 29 Annex. Western Stock Raising- 




Durbin, Orr& Co.— Cattle branded \B; also 
some of them \B, and horses the same. 
Post-office, Cheyenne, W. T. Range, Bear Creek. 




Creighton & Co.— Horses branded quarter cir- 
cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, part cat- 
tle branded half-circle on shoulder. 

Postoffice Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and 
Pumpkin creeks. 

Stock raising is an important industry. We have 
often expressed our belief that, ultimately, it would 
be found there was not one foot of valueless land on 
the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek 
country, previous to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- 
sally admitted by all who kn e w any thin g about that 
section of country, to be utterly valueless . Coal, 
in immense quantities,- was discovered all along 
the creek— great veins— and it is now the most 



valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. 
Portions of the Humboldt and Nevada Desert were 
also set down as valueless; now, see what irriga- 
tion has done for a portion of it. where the people 
have had the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- 
gation, as at Humboldt Station. We contend that 
all the landson the line of this road are valuable, 
some as mineral, some as agricultural, but the 
greater portion is the finest grazing land in the 
world. This lact, of late years, is becoming thor- 
oughly understood, as in 1868 there would not ex- 
ceed twenty thousand head of cattle on the whole 
line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; 
now there are over 700,000 head of cattle, 30,000 
head of horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. 

The range is enormous, taking in broad plains, 
grass-covered mountains, and thousands of as 
beautiful little foot-hills and mountain valleys as 
there are in the world. This section commences 
about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and 
extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- 
tervening, is the stock-raiser's paradise. The ab- 
sence of water is the only drawback in this inter- 
vening section, and in time wells will be sunk and 
that obstacle overcome. The valley bluffs, low 
hills and mountain sides of this whole section are 
covered with a luxuriant growth of gramma or 
" bunch" grass, one of the most nutritious grasses 
grown, together with white sage and grease-wood, 
upon which all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- 
son, without care, excepting what is necessary to 
prevent them from straying beyond reach. Old 
work-oxen that had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of 
the freight wagon during the season, have been 
lurned out to winter by their owners, and by the 
following July they were "rolling fat "—fit for 
beef. We know this to be a fact from actual ex- 
perience. 

This country is the great pasture land of the 
continent. There is room for millions of cattle in 
this unsettled country, and then have grazing land 
enough to spare to feed half the stock in the 
Union. 

In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of 
this great grazing range, and along the line of the 
great water courses, there, is no trouble from lack 
of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- 
plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound in 
various sections, so that no very large tract of 
land is devoid of natural watering places. The 
grass grows from nine to twelve inches high, and 
is peculiarly nutritious. It is always green 
near the roots, summer and winter. During the 
summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing 
grass as effectually as though cut and prepared fox- 
hay. The nutritive qualities of the grass remain 
uninjured, and stock thrive equally well on the 
dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very 
dry, unlike that which falls in more humid cli- 
mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a 
few inches, but the cattle readily remove it, reach- 
ing the grass without trouble. 

Again, the snow does not stick to the sides of 
the cattle and melt there, chilling them through, 
but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, 
leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock 
in this country is just what it will cost to employ 
herders— no more. The contrast between raising 
stock here and in the East must be evident. 
Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is 
adding an untold wealth to the country. The 
mountain streams afford ample water power for 
manufactories, and wool enough could be grown 
here with which to clothe all the people of the 
Union, when manufactured into cloth. With the 
railroad to transport the cattle and sheep to the 



264 



A ZL>T IDsT IE 1X1. 



Eastern and Western markets, immense fortunes 
are now being made, and the business is compara- 
tively new — in its infancy. 

No drouths which have been experienced in 
this great range have ever seriously affected the 
pasturage, owin t, to the peculiar qualities of the 
grasses indigenous to the country. So with 
storms: it has seldom happened that any storms 
are experienced which cause loss, and none ever 
need to, and none ever do, when the stock is prop- 
erly attended to and herded. 

On these ranges it is common for stock of many 
owners to range together, and a system of brands 
has been adopted, and recorded with the county 
clerk in the section of country where the herds 
belon?. The recording of the brands is a protec- 
tion against theft and loss by straying, as each 
cattle man knows the brands in use in his range, 
and each endeavors to protect the other's interest. 
The illustrations that we present, show two of 
the brands in use, and the method adopted by all 
cattle men to make known their brand, and the 
particular range, or home range of the cattle. 
[These are actual names, brands, range and ad- 
dresses.] 

The Annual " Round-Up."— One of the 
most important and interesting features of the 
stock-raising business is the cattle "round-up." 
In the "free and easy " manner of raising cattle 
on the broad, western plain, where the owner may 
not see one-half of his herd for six months at a 
time, it may be imagined that the restless Texans 
scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and that 
extra effort is necessary when they are finally 
collected by the regular spring "round up." 
Companies of herders are organized to scour cer- 
tain sections of country, and bring every animal to 
a grand focal point, no matter who ihat animal 
may belong to or what its condition may be. The 
old-fashioned "husking bee, 1 ' " 'possum hunt " or 
"training day" is vastly outdone by this wild 
revelry of the herders. Mounted upon their fleet- 
est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc- 
tions, gather in " everything that wears horns," 
and at night may have the property of half-a-dozen 
owners in one immense, excited herd. Then, 
while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- 
gether, representatives of the different " brands " 
ride into the herd, single out their animals, one 
by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- 
keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is 
repeated, until the whole plains country has been 
visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity 
to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the 
participants " camp out " wagons, following the 
herd, with blankets and provisions, the "round- 
up" season, being one of mirth and frolic, as well 
as of work, from beginning to end. 

No. 30 Annex. The Great Cave— of 
Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the 
southwest of Eureka. It is situated in one of the 
low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which 
extends for about two miles into a branch of 
Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 
65 feet high, and presents no indications which 
would lead one to suspect that it guarded the en- 
trance to an immense cavern. The entrance 
to the cave would hardly be noticed by 
travelers,, it being very low and partly obscured. 
A rock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- 
plorer, who must pass along a low passage for 
about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with 
a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the 
chambers discovered are of great size ; one, called 
the " dancing hall," being about seventy by ninety 
feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, 
which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening 



into this chamber are several smaller ones, and 
near by, a clear, cold spring of excellent water 
gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more 
chambers, the walls of which are covered with 
stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites 
are found on the floors in great numbers. It is 
not known how far this cave extends, but it has 
been explored over 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm 
prevented further exploration. 

Indian Legend— The Indians in this vicinity 
have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be 
tempted to venture any distance within its 
haunted recesses. They have a legend that " heap" 
Indians went in once for a long way and none ever 
returned. But one who ventured in many moons 
ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss 
of those who accompanied him, and he is now 
styled "Cave Indian." According to the legend, 
he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled 
until he came to a beautiful stream of water, 
where dwelt a great many Indians, who had small 
ponies and beautiful squaws. Though urged to 
stay with his people, " Cave " preferred to return 
to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all 
were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffer- 
ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of ihe cave, 
but his people still live in the bowels of the earth. 
The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and 
will not venture within the darkness. Another 
story is current among the people who live near 
by, which is, that the Mormons were once posses- 
sors of this cave, and. at the time when they had 
the rupture with the United States Government, 
used it as a hiding place for the plate and treas- 
ures of the Church and the valuables ot the Mor- 
mon elders. The existence of the cave was not 
known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew 
of it, until 1866. 

A Little History — In the latter part of the 
summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- 
posa, in California, crossed the bierra Nevada 
Mountains ma Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in 
Utah, but now in that part of the country set off to 
form Nevada. For three years the party worked 
placer mines and other gold along the various 
canyons and gulches extending eastward from the 
Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting 
further north, and who discovered Comstock 
Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- 
covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye 
and Humboldt counties, and in the adjoining 
Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great 
"unexplored desert, 1 ' on the map, was avoided 
until 1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch 
out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz 
and fine timber land, extending along a series of 
parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- 
rado River. Several New York companies became 
interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- 
stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where 
Treasure City now stands, to work veins in the 
Diamond Range. Across the valley, opposite New- 
ark, White Pine Mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here 
the " Monte Christo " mill was erected, at which 
a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen 
of better "nappias" than had yet been discov- 
ered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- 
covered at Treasure Hill and the " Hidden Treas- 
ure " mine were located and recorded on the 14th 
of September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- 
tion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, 
another source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- 
tending through Nevada and Utah . We refer to 
that branch of business which has been gradually 
increasing— one which will bring a large revenue 
to the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- 
ing. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 



A^'ITBX. 



265 



are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready 
market in the mining districts and westward to 
Sacramento and San Francisco. 

No. 31 Annex. Nevada Falls— In order to 
form a proper idea of the superb picture, No. 13, 
of the large series, it will be necessary to pre- 
mise that the To-Semite Valley is an immense 
gorge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, about seven miles iu length, from 
east to west, and from one-eighth of a mile to two 
miles in width, from north to south. The walls 
surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly perpen- 
dicular, and from 2,000 to 6,000 feet high. The 
various streams that find their way into the valley 
flow over this tremendous wall on entering. At 
the eastern end of the valley proper, it divides 
into two canyons, projecting still eastward, but 
diverging as they mount the Sierras. It is through 
the south one of these canyons, that the main 
branch of the Mercede River flows, and on enter- 
ing the valley, it makes two leaps. The lower 
one, or Vernal Fall, of 450 feet in height, 100 feet 
wide, and from three to four feet deep, where it 
leaps the square-edged barrier. Continuing up 
the canyon lor a mile, above the Vernal Fall, 
amid the wildest scenery imaginable, and we 
reach the Great Nevada Fall, the subject of our 
picture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge-like 
form, to quite a point, and just at the right of 
this vortex is the fall. It. is 900 feet high, 75 feet 
wide at the brink, and 130 feet below. Regarded 
as to its height, volume, purity of water, and 
general surroundings, it is one of the grandest 
objects in the world. The spectator facing the 
east will observe on his left the " Cap of Lib- 
erty " lifting its rounded summit of smooth and 
weather polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 
5,000 feet above the valley below, or 9,000 feet 
above the sea. To paint in words, in the space 
allowed us, the beauties of the fall, the bolder 
scenery, the foliage, mosses and ferns, always 
moist from the spray, and brilliant green in sum- 
mer, the roar and rush of the fast-flowing river, 
the majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, 
which towers above and around it, is simply an 
impossibility; we shall not try, but refer the 
reader's imagination and judgment with these 
statistics to the beautiful picture, which has 
been accurately en skived from a faithful photo- 
graph. (See Annex No. 10.) 

No. 33 Annex. Pioneer Mail Enter- 
prises— Crossing the Sierras on Snow-Skates 
—The rapid settlement of the fertile valleys 
lying at the eastern base of the High Sierras of 
California, created a want for mail facilities in ad- 
vance of regular methods. It is well known, that 
previous to the winter of 1854, the fearless settlers 
of this isolated inland world were shut out from 
communion with the great throbbin? heart of civ- 
ilization on the outside for three or four months 
of every year, by that almost inaccessible and 
snow -clad range. Those whose temerity let 
events bid defiance to this battle-ground of the 
•storms, and sought to scale its snowy ramparts, 
too frequently became snow-blind, or foot-frozen ; 
or, still more frequently, lay down to that sleep 
which knows no waking — their only mantle the 
fast-falling snow. 

In this emergency, one brave heart, at least, 
was found to dare the perilous task of carrying 
the United States Mail to those enterprising pio- 
neers. It was Mr. John A. Thompson, a Norwe- 
gian. Early education and habit had made him 
an adept in the use of the snow skate. Without 
hesitation, he made a contract with T. J. Matte- 
son, of Murphy's Camp, Calaveras county, to con- 
tinue postal service in winter, as well as in sum- 



mer, over the route, via the Calaveras grove of 
big trees (the only grove then known, to Carson 
City, for $200 per month, without regard to the 
depth of snow. 

Our illustration introduces our heroin propria 
persona,. It will be seen at a glance that the 
snow-skate is totally unlike the Indian, or Cana- 
dian snow-shoe— the latter being adapted, mainly, 
to a light, loose snow, and level country; and the 
former to compact masses, and mountainous dis- 
tricts. The " shoe," moreover, is of slow and la- 
borious use ; whereas the "skate" is of exceed- 
ingly rapid and exhilarating adaptability— espe- 
cially on down grades, when its speed is fre- 
quently equal to the ordinary locomotive. The 
motion is a elide— not a step. The pole in the 
mail carrier's hand acts as a brake on down 
grades, and as a propeller up hill. 

In Sierra county, California, where snow often 
falls to the depth of ten or twelve feet, the snow- 
skate is a great favorite, becoming a source of 
pleasant recreation, on moon-lit evenings —visits 
of from ten to fifteen miles being made after tea, 
and returning the same evening. Here, too, 
snow-skating forms one of the most popular of 
pastimes— racing. A belt, studded and set with 
silver, becomes the prize of the successful racer 
Sometimes young ladies will challenge gentle- 
men to a race for a pocket handkerchief, or a pair 
of gloves— which, of course, is always accepted 
The accidents which sometimes occur throw no 
damper on the sport. 

On the second trip of Mr. Thompson, when 
nearly on the summit of the Sierra, he sought the 
protection of a friendly cabin for the night ; when, 
upon entering it, he saw the almost lifeless form of 
a man with his feet frozen, and without any other 
covering than the clothes he wore. His boots 
were frozen last to his feet. He had been lying 
in this deplorable condition, alone, for twelve 
days, with nothing to save life except raw flour. 
Although death would soon have lifted from him 
his burden of sufi'ering, he continued hopeful to 
the last, that a kind Providence would send the 
daring mail carrier, as an angel of mercy, to de- 
liver him. Tears started to his eyes when he told 
of the joy of the snow-bound and helpless, as he 
heard the muffled, though welcome, sound of 
snow-skates. As soon as all necessary assistance 
could be rendered, and the man made as comfort- 
able as possible, Mr. Thompson, without resting 
his weary limbs, started out upon the snowy 
waste in search of relief. He did not search in 
vain. The simple recital of his story was enough 
to thrill his listeners, and to enlist all the volun- 
teers necessary to bring the sufterer into safety . 
All desirable supplies, and a light sled upon 
which to haul him, were soon provided; and, 
although heavy snow-storms impeded their way, 
thev soon became his deliverers. 

Mo. 33 Annex. The Donner Party— 
(Illustration page 93). Around this beautiful 
sheet of water — nestled so closely in the embrace 
of these mighty mountains, smiling and joyous 
in its matchless beauty, as though no dark sorrow 
had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters 
reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- 
tion — is clustered the saddest, of memories— a 
memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. 

In the fall of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly 
from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn and 
wasted from their long and arduous journey. 
Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with 
his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of 
the California rivers, the fame of which had 
reached them in their Eastern home. At that 
time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- 



266 



^ IS - IDsT IE :X1. 



ter's Fort, brought there by the returning trap 
pers, who, with .wondrous tales of the fertility of 
the soil and the genial climate of California, had 
induced some of their friends to return with them 
and settle in this beautiful land. The Donner 
party, as it is generally called, was one of those 
parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was 
journeying to this then almost unknown land. 
Arriving at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the 
danger threatening them, hurried them forward, 
that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the 
snows of winter should encompass them. Part of 
the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who 
had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite 
all warnings, he loitered along until, at last, he 
reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped 
there for the night. The weather was growing 
cold, and the black and threatening sky betokened 
the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road 
turned to the left in those days, following up 
Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- 
mit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route 
in fair weather. The party who encamped at the 
lake that night numbered 16 souls, among whom 
were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During 
the night, the threatened storm burst over them 
in all its fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- 
fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing 
destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. 
The snow fell heavily and fast, as it can fall in 
those mountains . Most of the frightened cattle, 
despite the herder's vigilance, " went off with the 
storm." 

In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- 
held one vast expanse of snow, and the large white 
flakes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. 
Some of the cattle and their horses remained. 
They could leave wagons, and with the horses 
they might possibly cross the mountains. But 
here aroselanother difficulty, Mr. Donner was un- 
well, and could not go — or preferred to wait until 
the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true 
woman, refused to leave her husband. 

The balance of the party, with the exception of 
one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- 
ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade 
Mr. and Mrs. Donner a last good-by ; and, after a 
long and perilous battle with the storm, they suc- 
ceeded in crossing the mountains and reaching the 
valleys, where the danger was at an end. The 
storm continued, almost without intermission, for 
several weeks, and those who had crossed the 
Summit knew that an attempt to reach the im- 
prisoned party would be futile— worse than folly, 
until the spring sun should melt away the icy 
barrier. 

Of the long and dreary winter passed by these 
three persons, who shall tell? The tall stumps 
(see illustration) standing near where stood the 
cabin, attest the depth of snow. Some of them are 
20 feet in height. 

Early in the spring a party of brave men, led by 
Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring 
out the prisoners, expecting to find them alive and 
well, for it was supposed that they had provisions 
enough to last them through the winter, but it 
seem 8 they were mistaken. 

After a desperate effort, which required weeks 
of toil and exposure, the party succeeded in 
scaling the mountains, and came to the camp of 
the Donners. What a sight met the first elance! 
In a rudely constructed cabin, before the fire, sat 
the Dutchman, holding in a vice-like grasp a 
roasted arm and hand, which he was greedily eat- 
ing. With a wild and frightened look he sprang to 
his feet and confronted the new comers, holding 
on to the arm as though he feared they would de- 



prive him of his repast. The remains of the arm 
were taken from him by main force, and the ma- 
niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were 
found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given 
such burial as the circumstances would permit, 
and, taking the survivor with them, they returned 
to the valley. 

The German recovered, and still lives. His 
story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- 
ner died, and was buried in the snow. The last of 
the cattle escaped, leaving but little food; and 
when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. 
Many dark suspicions of foul play on the part of 
the only survivor have been circulated, but whether 
they are correct will never be known, until the 
final unraveling of time's dark mysteries. 

Xo. 34 Annex. "Koll 'Em Through." 
— October 17th, 1872, as an excursion train, loaded 
with passengers, most of whom were women and 
children, rounded the curve close below the tun- 
nel, and with No. 6 train thundering along close 
behind, the timbering in the tunnel was discovered 
by the fireman to be on fire. The engineer, Joh nny 
Bartholomew, comprehending the position at a 
glance, made one of the most brilliant dashes, un- 
der the circumstances, on record. The train passed 
through the tunnel safely, when to have stopped 
short would have been sure death. G. H. Jen- 
nings, Esq., of Brooklyn, New York, has put the 
following words in the mouth of the brave en- 
gineer: See page 165. 

I ain't very much on the tancy, 
And all that sort of stuff, 

For an engineer on a railroad 
Is apt to be more "on the rough ;" 

He don't "go much" on "his handsome," 
I freely "acknowledge the corn," 

But he has got to "git up" on his "wide-awake," 
That's "just as sure's you're born." 

Now, I'll tell you a little story, 

'Bout "a run" we had for our necks, 
When we thought "old Gabe" had called us, 

To "ante up our checks." 
We came 'round the curve by the tunnel, 

Just beyond the American Flat, 
vVhen my fireman sings out, "Johnny! 

Look ahead! My God, what's that? " 

You bet, I warn't long in sightin'— 

There was plenty for me to see, 
With a train full of kids an' wimmen, 

And their lives all hangin' on me— 
For the tunnel was roarin' and blazin', 

All ragin' with fire an 1 smoke, 
And "Number Six" close behind us — 

" Quick, sonny! shove in the coke." 

"Whistle 'down brakes,' " I first thought; 

Then, think's I, "old boy, 't won't do;" 
And with hand on throttle an' lever, 

I knew I must roll Vm through! 
Through the grim mouth of the tunnel — 

Through smoke an' flame, as well- 
Right into the "gateway of death," boys; 

Rjght smack through the "jaws of hell!" 

The staunch "old gal" felt the pressure 

Of steam through her iron joints ; 
She acted just like she was human — 

Just like she "knew all the points; " 
She glided along the tramway, 

With speed of a lightning flash, 
With a howl assuring us safety, 

Regardless of wreck or crash. 

I 'spose I might have "jumped the train, 
In hope to save sinew and bone, 



-A- nsr nsr is :xi. 



267 



And left them wimmen and children 

To take that ride alone ; 
Bat I tho't of a day of reck'nin' ; 

And whatever 'Old John 11 done here, 
No Lord ain't going to say to him then, 

"You went back as an engineer! " 

Xo. 35 Annex. The Valley of the Yel- 
lowstone—No. 7, of the large illustrations, is 
engraved from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- 
den, the great explorer of the West. It presents 
a view of one of the finest and most picturesque 
portions of the valley. It is looking southward, 
above the first or lower canyon, and directly on 
the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits 
may be seen on the left of the picture, extending 
up the river. Below is the first canyon, between 
the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the 
Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then 
makes its exit from the mountain region proper. 
The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from 
four to five miles m width, and is one of the most 
delightful portions of Montana. (See Annex No. 
26 and 36.) 

No. 36 Annex The Falls of the Yel- 
lowstone— as illustrated in No 8 of our series of 
large views is one of the most perfect pictures ever 
made. It is from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- 
den, and engraved by Bross, of New York. Itrepre- 
sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where 
the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- 
tance of 350 feet. Prof. Hayden, in his report, 
says : "After the waters of the Yellowstone roll 
over the upper falls, (140 feet,) they flow with great 
rapidity over an apparently flat, rocky bottom, 
which spreads out to nearly double its width above 
the falls, and continues thus until near the Lower 
Fall, when the channel again contracts, and the 
waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves 
into one compact mass, and plunge over the preci- 
pice in detached drops of foam, as white as snow, 
some of the huge globules of water shooting down 
through the sunlight, like the white fire contents 
of an exploded rocket. It is a spectacle infinitely 
more beautiful than the grandest picture ever 
presented of the famous Falls of Niagara. In the 
immediate vicinity of the Lower Falls, and in the 
grand canyon, the scene is indescribably beauti- 
ful. A heavy mist arises from the water at the 
foot of the falls, so dense that one cannot ap- 
proach within from two to three hundred feet of 
them, and even then the clothes will be drenched 
in a few moments. Upon the glowing, yellow, 
nearly vertical walls of the west side, the rnist 
mostly falls, and for 300 feet from the bottom, 
the wall is covered with a thick matting of 
mosses, sedges, grasses, and other vegetation of 
the most vivid green, which have sent their 
small roots into the softened rocks and are nour- 
ished by the ever-ascending spray. (See Annex 
No. 26 and 35.) 

Xo. 37 Annex. Falls of the Willamette 
River — The scene of the large illustration, No. 
9, represents the Falls of the Willamette River, 
at Oregon City, Oregon, where the hills approach 
the river on each side, forcing the river through 
a deep canyon, and over a fall of from 30 to 40 
feet. The cliffs on either side of the river rise 
abruptly hundreds of feet in height, and are cov- 
ered at the top and less precipitous places with a 
growth of evergreens. Locks are built on the 
Oregon City side of the river, large enough to ad- 
mit the passage of boats 200 feet and 40 feet in 
width. Water power is also supplied from the 
same source of 4,000 horse powers, which is used 
forranning woolen mills and other manufactories 
at Oregon City. 



No. 38 Annex. Cape Horn— is a bold 
promontory, situated on the north side of the Col- 
umbia River, in Washington Territory, about mid- 
way between the Cascade Mountains and the 
Dalles. This promontory is of basaltic forma- 
tion—like most others on the Columbia— and rises 
near 250 feet perpendicular from the water's edge, 
and extends about one mile in length, the lower 
part projecting several hundred feet out into the 
river. Cape Horn derives its name from the dan- 
ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 10, 
represents a small party of pleasure and curiosity 
seekers, on a pleasant afternoon, when the winds 
had lulled, who have successfully rounded the 
cape. 

Xo. 39 Annex. Wood Hauling in Ne- 
vada— No. 11, of the large views, is a beautiful en- 
graving, representing a ten-mule team loaded 
with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- 
gether like a train of cars - called " trail wagons, 11 
—on which are loaded twenty-four cords of wood. 
At the point represented in the picture, the team 
is about on the dividing line between Gold Hill, 
down the canyon to the rear of the wagons, one- 
fourth mile— and Virginia City, directly ahead, 
about the same distance, around the point of the 
mountain . This plan of coupling wagons is q uite 
common on the Pacific Coast, for all kinds of 
heavy hauling. The picture was engraved by Mr. 
Bross, of New York, from a photograph taken by 
Sutterley, of Virginia City. 

No. 40 Annex. Mirror Lake, Yo-Sem- 
ite Valley— In the large illustration, No. 12, 
is presented one of the most wonderful, as well 
as charmingly picturesque scenes to be witnessed 
in this most romantic valley. As will be seen, it 
represents one of the most bold and striking views 
of a charming little sheet of crystal water of al- 
most a couple of acres in extent, in which numer- 
ous schools of speckled trout may be seen gaily 
disporting themselves. 

The waters are as still as death, as though awed 
by the wondrous grandeur of its surroundings. 
Close to the southeast stands the majestic " South 
Dome," 4,590 feet in altitude above the lake. On 
the north and west lie immense rocks that have 
become detached from the tops of the mountain, 
3,000 feet above ; among these grow a large variety 
of trees and shrubs, manv of which stand on and 
overhang the margin ol the lake, and are reflected 
on its mirror bosom, as shown in the picture. 
(See Annex No. 31.) 

Xo. 41 Annex. The Pony Express- 
was an enterprise started in 1860, by Majors. 
Russell & Co., of Leavenworth, Kan., to meet the 
pressing business wants of the Pacific Coast. It 
will be remembered that the usual time made on 
the mail service, by steamer, between New York 
and San Francisco, was about twenty-six days. 
The first Overland mail— which arrived in San 
Francisco Oct. 10th, 1858— carried it from St. 
Louis, Mo., via Los Angeles, in twenty-three days, 
twenty-one hours. The Pony Express — which 
left St. Joseph, Mo., and San Francisco, simulta- 
neously, April 3d, 1860— succeeded in transporting' 
it through safely on its first trip, in ten days ; on 
its second, in 14 days; third, nine days; fourth, 
ten days ; fifth, nine days ; sixth, nine days ;— a 
distance of 1,996 miles. This rapid transmission 
of business correspondence was of incalculable 
value to business men in those days. 

This service, we can readily see, required cour- 
age and endurance, as well as enterprise and the 
expenditure of large sums of money. The mo- 
ment the ferry boat touched land on the opposite 
shore, the Pony Expressman mounted his horse ; 



268 



.A. 1ST 1ST IE 2C. 



and by day or by night, in starlight or darkness ; 
whether sun-dried or soaked, snow-covered or 
frozen; among friends or through foes; be he 
lonely or merry — onward he hastened, until, at I he 
thrice-welcomed station, he leaped from his saddle 
to rest. Here another was ready, whose horse, 
like himself, had been waiting, perhaps, without 
shelter; and with a cheery " Good night, boys," he 
galloped off, and was soon lost in the distance. 
He rides on alone, over prairies and mountains ; 
whether up hill or down ; on rough ground or 
smooth, until he descries in the distance the goal 
of his hopes, and the station is reached. 

To realize even partially the dangers of this ser- 
vice, we need only glance at the newspapers of the 
day, where such items as the following were 
chronicled: "The pony expressman has just re- 
turned from Cold Springs— driven back by the In- 
dians. 11 " The men at Dry Creek Station have all 
been killed, and it is thought the Robert's Creek 
Station has been destroyed. Eight animals were 
stolen from Cold Springs Monday. 1 ' " Bartholo- 
mew Riley died last night irom a wound received 
at the Cold Springs Station, on the 16th of May. 
Just arrived from the Indian battle-ground, at 
Pyramid Lake, tired as he was, he volunteered to 
ride to the next change, then, a distance of 
eighty-five miles, where he received the wound of 
which he died. 11 " Six Pike's Peakers found the 
body of the station-keeper horribly mutilated, and 
all the animals missing, at Simpson's Park. 11 

These few incidents will readily illustrate the 
stuff of which the pony expressmen and station 
keepers were made ; as well as the dangers and 
privations to which they were exposed. To tell of 
the losses in men from the Indians, and of horses 
and other property, both from volunteers as well 
as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures of 
those who participated in ihis daring enterprise, 
however interesting, would make too long a recital 
for these pages. 

Ko. 4& Annex. Sierra Xevada Moun- 
tains—The large illustration. No. 14, of the 
Sierras, is from a photograph, and affords a beau- 
tiful view of the highest point of the Sierra Ne- 
vada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pa- 
cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession of 
tuunels and snow-sheds, which extend without a 
break for 28 miles; below is the "Gem of the 
Sierras. 1 ' Donner Lake. (For description, see 
pages 172 and 173 of this book.) 

No. 43 Annex. Mount Shasta— as shown 
in No. 15, of our large views, is a prominent fea- 
ture in the landscape of the Sacramento Valley, 
at the head of which it is located. 

The view is looking to the northeast. In the fore- 
ground is the broad valley of the Sacramento, 
then come towering forest trees, massive rocks, 
and a variety of foliage, upon which alternate 
patches ol shade and sunlight are thrown with 
striking effect. Above all, towering high n mid- 
air, Mount Shasta springs, in a series of graceful 
curves, far up into an almost unci Aided heaven, 
its sides and summits enfolded in the eternal 
snows. The contrast between the verdure-clad 
valley and the cold, wintry peaks of old Shasta, 
king of mountains, is a chit 1 interest in the pic- 
ture, reminding the spectator of some of the most 
striking effects of Alpine scenery. Mt. Shasta is 
14,440 feet high. (See further description on 
page 

So. 44 Annex. Woodward Crardens— 

Thes- gardens were laid out in 1860 by R. B 
Woodward. E«q., a gentleman of enterprise and 
refined taste, to surround, adorn and beautify his 



private residence, situated near the center of the 
grounds. To this end the continents of both 
America and Europe were searched to procure 
every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indi- 
genous plants, or articles of rare virtue and 
value. For us to attempt to describe these beau- 
tiful grounds, and do justice to the subject, were 
we able, would take a larger book than the Tour- 
ist. They must be seen 10 be appreciated. You 
will find in the "Art Gallery " rare paintings and 
statuary ; in the "Zoological department ag>eat 
variety of different kinds of wild animals, including 
the California lion, and a mammoth grizzly bear, 
weighing 1,600 pounds; also a great variety of 
California birds. 

In these grounds are towering evergreen trees 
and crystal lakes, oriental arbors and beautiful 
statuary, delightful nooks and shady retreats, 
with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling 
fountains, sweet music, and, above all, the glo- 
rious California sky. Possessed of all these lux- 
uriant surroundings, and with ample income, 
could any person be surprised that Mr Wood- 
ward should persistently decline to open them to 
the curious public? But the time came at last. 
It was when the soldiers and sailors of this coun- 
try lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the ships, in 
the camps, and on the battle-fields, with widows, 
orphans, suffering, and death on every side. The 
sanitary fund was low. Money must be had! 
Then it was that his noble heart leaped to the res- 
cue. The grounds were then thrown open to the 
public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The re- 
ceipts were princely; and no one can say how 
many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the 
last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the 
generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? 
These gardens were opened permanently to the 
public in May, 1866. They occupy five acres of 
ground, lour of which are bounded by Market, 
Mission, 13th and 14th streets, with one acre to 
the south of 14th street, connected by tunnel un- 
der that street from the main garden. 

No. 45 Annex. The Qeysers— No. 17 of 
our large series of views gives a very truthful 
picture of this wonderful region. Here extremes 
meet in a most astonishing way, if the diversity 
of mineral springs can be called extremes, as they 
are over two hundred in number and possess 
every variety of characteristics; some are hot 
and others are icy cold; some contain white 
sulphur, some black, some red, or yellow; others 
alum— and boiling alum at that; others iron; 

others t-oda; others oh, well, it's idle to 

go on particularizing. You have but to name 
your spring, and it is re idy for you. Side by side 
boil and bubble the hottest of hot springs, and 
the coldest of cold ones, being frequently but a 
few inches apart. Indeed, so closely do they lie 
together that the greatest care must be exercised 
lest one shall step knee-deep into a boiling cal- 
dron or an icy bath. Even the rocks become 
thoroughly heated, and quantities of magnesia, 
sulphur, alum, epsom salts, and many other 
chemicals, lie thickly strewn about, making a 
sort of druggist's paradise. The noises, too, and 
the smells, are as diversified as the character of 
the springs ; some hiss, some murmur, some roar. 
Of these springs, one is known as the "Devil's 
Grist-mill"; another, the "Calliope 11 ; then the 
" Steamboat Geyser, 11 the "Witch's Caldron, 11 the 
"Mountain of Fire, 11 the latter of which contains 
more than a hundred apertures, and in all of 
these are shown, each for itself, some interesting 
and remarkable peculiarity. (See route to the 
Geysers on pages 214 and 216 ) 



a. isr nsr je :x:. 



269 



Xo. 4G Annex. The large view, No. 18, of 

San Francisco and the Golden Gate, is a real mul- 
tuminparvo— a complete bird's-eye view of the 
city of San Francisco and its surroundings, cov- 
ering a scope of country about twelve miles in 
diameter— showing the Golden Gate, portions of 
San Fancisco Bay, the Pacific ocean in the dis- 
tance, and the Pier of the Central Pacific rail- 
road in the foreground, from whence passengers 
are transferred across the bay to "Frisco." This 
beautiful picture has been prepared and engraved 
expressly for this book. It shows what the God- 
ess of "•American Progress " — as represented by 
view No. 1— has accomplished within the past 
few years, and is a very appropriate illustration 
with which to close our series of large views from 
Ocean to Ocean. 



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" right wing," the other half the " left wing." In 
forming a coral, the wagons of the "right wing" 
form a half circle on the right-hand side of the 
road, hauled close together, teams on the outside ; 
the "left wing form on the left side in the same 
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Xo. 48 Annex. Viewing Progress— 

During the construction of the Pacific Railroad— 
and, in fact, for many years afterwards— the loco- 
motives, cars, and all persons connected with the 
road, were viewed with great curiosity by the In- 
dians in the country through which it was built. 
The engines— "fire-wagon"— and the long tra ns of 
cars— "heap wasoa no hoss"— received the In- 
dians 1 special attention; and they would gather 
around on the hills at first, and then cautiously 
approach and watch every movement— lying 
around for days and months at a time. From the 
commencement of the building of the road through 
the Indian country until its completion, the In- 
dians had a wholesome fear of the "fire-wagons." 
The - would often attack small parties of graders, 
or u. '{Ier3 from the camps; but only in two or 
three stances did they attempt to disturb the 
passing trains, and in those cases they were pun- 
ished so severely that ever afterward they declared 
"fire-wagon" "bad medicine." 



270 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



The illustration on page 153 represents a small 
party of Apache Mohaves, headed by their famous 
war chief, Mi-ra-ha, in 1868, who, having heard 
about the terrible "fire-wagons, " left their country, 
in northern Arizona, and made a pilgrimage to tbe 
northward, many hundred miles, to view the great 
curiosity. We learned from a half-breed, on a re- 
cent visit to Arizona, that Mi-ra-ha, after his re- 
ture to Arizona, resolved to gather his forces and 
capture one of these Pacific Railroad "fire-wagons. 
But as Gen. Crook made it very lively for hfm at 
home for many years after his return, and as Capt. 
Porter sent him to his "happy hunting ground," 
in 1876, he has probably got all he can attend to. 

Ko. 4» Annex. Palace Hotel at San 
Francisco— This monster hotel of the world, is 
situated in the city of San Francisco occupying 
one entire block of ground, 344 by 265 feet, 
bounded by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and 
Jessie streets. It is seven stories high (115 feet), 
the foundation walls are twelve feet thick, while 
the exterior and interior walls range from iy 2 feet 
to 4 y 2 feet in thickness. 

The foundation walls, at their base, are built 
with inverted arches. All exterior, interior and 
partition walls, at every five feet, commencing 
from the bottom of the foundation, are banded to° 
gether with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a 
perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The 
quantity of iron so ueed increases in every story 
towards the roof, and in'the upper story the iron 
bands are only two feet apart. 

The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and the 
cornice of zinc and iron. The building has three 
courts, the center one having an iron-framed glass 
covering, and is 144 by 84 feet, with a drive-way 
and sidewalk opening on New Montgomery street, 
forty feet wide. The two outer courts, from the 
basement level, are each 22 by 135 feet, with two 
drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from Market and An- 
nie streets, and one from Annie and Jessie streets. 
These are connected by two brick-arched passage- 
ways, ten feet in width, allowing ample space for 
a four-in-hand team to pass under and through 
them. 

Besides the city water-works, a supply of water 
comes from four artesian wells of a ten-'inch bore, 
which have a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. 
A reservoir is located under the center court, cap- 
able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are 
seven tanks, which will contain 128,000 gallons. 

The hotel is supplied with two steam force 
pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- 
vators, together with ail the modern improvements, 
and built throughout in the most substantial man- 
ner. (See illustration page 213.) 

Bf o. 50 Annex. Fares to Black Hills— 
From Omaha, 1st class, $45; emigrant, $25;— 
from Cheyenne or Sidney, $40; from Ugden, Utah, 
$70; from San Francisco, $116. 

Passengers can have choice of route, via Sidney 
or Cneyenne, as the rates are the same. 

« 5L 0, £ * Annex - Books of Reference— 

The .Resources of California,'" by John S. Hit- 
tell. A. Roman & Co., San Francisco. This is a 
valuable work. 

"Scenes of Wonder and Ctjriositt in Cali- 
fornia, " by J. M. Hutchings. A. Roman & Co 
San Francisco. 

"Nordoff's California ;" Harper &Bro., New 
York. 

Wentworth's "Resources of California:'" a 
monthly newspaper. 

"Between the Gates;" by B. F.Taylor. S. C. 
Griggs <fc Co., Chicago. This is a perfect gem of a 
work. The descriptions are of the finest pen 



pictures of California and the " Overland Route," 
we ever saw. laylor's ingenuity as a word painter 
has few equals ; he is a hiyu chief. 

Langley's "Pacific Coast Business Directory," 
which comprises everything of the sort west of 
the Rocky Mountains— is an invaluable work of the 
kind. 

The "■Scientific Press," by Dewey & Co., San 
Francisco, is a Journal that everybody interested 
in— or who wants to know anything about— the 
Pacific Coast should be sure to read. 

"Arizona as it is," by H. C. Hodge, Efq., 
Hurd & Houghton, New York, is the most com- 
plete work on Arizona ever published. 

Xo. 52 Annex. " Prickey," the Horned 
Toad.— This singular little member of the lizard 
species is certainly a native Caliiornian. It is 
found upon nearly every dry hill, or gravelly plain; 
and although it is rare in some districts, mothers 
it is still common. There are several varieties and 
sizes of it, and all perfectly harmless. It lives 
chiefly on flies and small insects. A California 
friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in 
front of his cabin for over three months; and, one 
morning, the male toad wound itself around the 
picket pin and strangled to death, and the same day 
the female followed his example. Upon a post 
mortem examination of the female, fifteen eggs 
were found about the size and shape of a small 
wren's egg. (See illustration, page .) 

BTo. 53 Annex. (From pages 226, 228.) Y<o* 
Semite and Big Trees— Example, by the New 
Madera Route, for a trip of less than 5 days. Take 
Sleeper, and leave San Francisco (say on Monday) 
at 4 p.m., dine ac Lathrop, at 8 p. m., arrive at 
Madera at 12:10 a. m., Tuesday morning. Rest in 
sleeper until 5:30, breakfast, take stage and leave 
at 6 a. m., arrive at Clark's at 3 p. m., and Yo-Sem- 
ite at 7 p. m. Distances: 

From San Francisco to Lathrop 94 miles. 

Lathrop to Madera 91 " 

Madera to Clark's 51 " 

Clark's to Yo-Semite 24 " 

Total 260. 

Time, 27 hours. 

Stay in Valley two days. 

Returning, leave the Valley at 1 p. m. Thurs- 
day; arrive at Clark's at 6 p. m. ; leave Clark's, Fri- 
day, 6 a. m., via Big Trees, and arrive at Madera 
at 7 p. m., and take sleeper ; leave Madera Saturday 
4:15a.m., reach Lathrop for breakfast, and arrive in 
San Francisco at 12:35 p. m. Special Sleeper? run 
between San Francisco and Madera, giving two fuU 
nights 1 rest, avoiding early and late changes, and 
many annoyances heretofore experienced by the 
tourist. 

The new wagon road from Clark's into and 
through the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees— 427 in 
number, the largest being 24 feet in diameter- 
enables the tourist to spend a portion of a day in 
the Grove without additional charge and make 
the same connections. 

The old route is to Merced, by same train, stop 
over at the El Capitan Hotel, and nex^ morning take 
coaches via either Snellinsr and Coulterville, or 
via Mariposa. Taking the Coulterville route, 12 
miles, at Marble Springs, is Bower's Cave; 20 
more. Hazel Green. From Hazel Green, eleva- 
tion 6,699 feet, a fine view of the great San Joa- 
quin Valley can be obtained. Here the McLane 
wagon road leads off to the Merced Grove of 
Trees. At Crane Flat. 34 miles from Coulterville, 
a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big 
Trees, one mile distant. Tacre are 31 trees, the 



_&_ 1ST 1ST IE 31 . 



271 



largest being 36 feet in diameter. The first view 
of To-Semite is had at Valley View, 40 miles from 
Coulterville and 12 miles from Yo-Semite. Dis- 
tance by this route is about 245 miles. 

The Mariposa route is via the town of Mariposa, 
46 miles thence to Clark's 31 miles. At Clark s, 
a road leads to the Mariposa grove of trees. 

STAGE CO. TOURIST TICKET RATES. 

Bxc. 1. San Francisco via Madera to Yo- 

Semite and Return .. $&y.w 

Exc. 3. Lathropvia Madera to Yo-Semite 

and Return . . ... ... •• - •• o*-"* 

Exc. 5. San Francisco via Merced to Yo- 

Semite and Return • • • o & - w 

Exc. 7. Lathrop via Merced to Yo-Semite 

and Return 50.00 

Exc. 9. Madera to Yo-Semite and Return.. 45.00 
Exc. 11. Merced " '■ ' * *a.ou 

Exc. 13. Madera " " (Single Trip; 25.00 

Exc. 15. Merced - k " '* ' n . ,*™ 

Sam Miller, Tourist Agent, Palace Hotel, San 
Francisco. , „ .. . fhrtao 

We give the above " Example " that those 
whose "time is money," can calculate accord- 
ingly Passengers can leave San Francisco at the 
same time every day in the week, and make the 
same time on around trip, or, can stopover as 
long as they cqoosc Tickets are good until 
used. Overland tickets, including Yo- Semite 
and the " Big Trees." can be purchased at all the 
principal tick.t offices in the east. 

No 54 Annex. Our Artists— The greater 
portion of the engraving in this work wa 3 exe- 
cuted by R. S. Bross, or New York, and C. W. 
Chandler, cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts. Chi- 
cago, Nearly all the large views, including Utah s 
Best Crop," " Women of the Period 1 ' and Brig- 
ham Young, 11 and most of the large views 
were engraved from photographs, by Mr. Bross 
while the -Orange Orchard," "The Loop, 
-Crossing the Sangre de Christo Mountains " 
" Yucca Palm," ''Hanging Rock of Utah," etc., 
were ens-raved by Mr. Chandler. 

The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake 
Citv and Waikins and Houseworth, of San Fran- 
cisco. All these artiste, we take pleasure in rec- 
ommending. 

No. 55 Annex. Tlie "Boss" Cactus 
of the World— On page 247, a simple reference 
has been made to this wonderful Sprout &a being 
peculiar to the Gila Desert. It is possible they 
may grow in other portions of the Territory, but 
certain it i*, these are the fi>'st on our route. 

These Cacti are of different shades of green 
" and yellow, and rise from the ground in the shape 
of a huge cone, many to the height of 40 feet, 
with a diameter of three feet near the ground. 
Some of these great cones have from one to fl*e 
smaller cones that branch out from the mam trunk 
at different heights, and shoot up parallel with it 
to various heights, all presenting the same gen- 
eral appearance. 

All thtse cones are grooved from top to bottom, 
the grooves being from one to three inches in depth 
and as many inches apart; the whole surface is 
covered with thorns of various sizes,— some three 
inches m length; and all very sharp. 

These cacti have a tough flaxen shell or exte- 
rior, but a soft, pithy inside, and P r p™ ce , ? n f 
blossom annually-on the top— and yield a kind 
of fruit much prized by the natives. 

On tbe Gila Desert, no tree or shrub grows more 

than a few feet from the ground, and rattlesnakes, 

lizards, owls, and woodpeckers are about the 

only living things noticeable. . 

How the lizard and owl manage to raise their 



young, and keep them from being devoured by the 
snake, is a problem which the woodpecker alone 
has solved by pecking a hole in the tall cactus near 
its top, making its nest, and raising its young se- 
cure from the snake and all its creeping enemies. 
As we ride along and see Mr. Woodpecker peeking 
out from his fortress in the tall cactus, we cannot 
help but admire the sagacity of the little fellow, 
while condemning his judgment for attempting to 
live and bring up a respectable family in such a 
" God-forsaken country" as the Gila Desert. 

No. 56 Annex. (From page 152)— In the sum- 
mer of 1878, a company was organized to build a 
railroad from Battle Mountain to Austin, dis- 
tance by wagon road, 90 miles. We understand 
the route has been surveyed and lound satisfac- 
tory, and the only question that now remains, is 
to decide on the gauge of the road. Some want 
a three-foot gauge, others have talked about six 
hundred. 

No. 5 V Annex. (From page 161.)— Reno was 
visited about the first of March, 1879, by the "fire 
fiend," and the greater portion of the city des- 
troyed. But the citizens are a very enterprising 
people, and, before the k ' smoke of battle" was 
cleared away, commenced to rebuild. 

No. 58. Annex. (From page 182.) New Sac- 
ramento l>epot— The Central Company are 
building a depot at Sacramento, that, when com- 
pleted, will be the largest, finest, and most com- 
modious on the Pacific Coast. It is being con- 
structed of the best material and in the most 
substantial manner. It is situated about midway 
between the bridge over the Sacramento River, 
and the company's shops, fronts north, on 
ground filled in and specially prepared for that 
purpose. The main building is 416 feet long,«and 
70 feet 6 inches wide, two s.ory. The front has 
four large arches in the center, and eight smaller 
ones on each side. Three tracks run through the 
building, and a platform 22 feet wide. In the 
rear is an annex, 160 feet long, and 35 feet wide, 
one story, in which is a dining-room, 40x55 feet, 
14 feet high, two waiting-rooms 26x35 feet. On 
the first floor are ticket, sleeping-car, and tele- 
graph offices, lunch counter and baggage-room, 
news-room, etc. The second story is occupied by 
the offices of the Sacramento Valley Railroad, 
Supt. of Division of the C. P., Train Despatchers, 
Conductors, Rooms for Storage, Stationery, etc. 

We understand it is the intention of the Rail- 
road Co. when the Overland Route is changed, and 
trains run via Benicia, to make Sacramento a reg- 
ular eating station. 

No, 59 Annex. (From page 63)— Georgetown 
& Leadville Railroad is one of the latest proposed 
narrow gauge roads in Colorado, and we under- 
stand the Colorado Central management has the 
matter in hand, and propose to build the load at 
an early day, pending which, a wagon road has 
been constructed via Silver Plume, Brownville, 
Bakersville, and Ten Mile, and a stage line is to be 
put on the route immediately. Distance from 
Denver, 110 miles ; 56 of which is beyond and along 
the "Snowy Range," presenting the grandest 
scenery in the world. 

No. 60 Annex. The Boston and Col- 
orado Smelting Works— are among the 
foremost of the many improvements noticeable in 
and about Denver for the year 1878. These works 
are situated on the west side of the Platte River, 
about two miles northwest from the city, on the 
high table-land, near the track of the Colorado 
Central with which they are connected by rail 
track. The buildings, yards, tracks, etc., occupy 



.&. isr icnt :e zx: 



twelve acres of land, and a-e to be ear 
rounded by a stone wall eight feet high, bavins' a 
frontage on the Colorado Central of 430 feet, and 
a depth of 500 feet, with one entrance at thd south- 
west corner. The calcining house, the first 
stone building inside, is 450x120 feet with a wing 
91x34 feet; th^ inside wa Is are ten feet high, and 
the gable ends thirty-one feet. The office is of stone, 
43x83 feet, two stories. The smelting house is 
280x38 feet, containing ten large furnaces each 
with a 52-foot chimney. The refining house is 
293x64 feet, with a wing 78x40 feet. 

Outside the wall, and beyond, are located the 
cottages, boarding-houses, etc., of the employes, 
who have named their new home, Argo. The 
present capacity of the works are 100 tons per day, 
employing 94 men. These works are under the 
direct supervision of Prof. Hill (Senator from 
Colorado) and are by many called "Prof. Hills' 
Works." 

The same company have works at Black Hawk, 
from which the totil yield of gold, silver and cop- 
per for 1878 amounted to $2,259,000. 

No, 61 Annex. (From page 73)— At this date 
—April, 1879 -four daily Concord Stages leave 
Canyon City on arrival of trains, for Leadville, 
via Arkansas Valley; distance 116 miles; time, 
26 hours. The Denver & Rio Grande Division 
will be open to Trout Creek, 60 miles, by June 1, 
which will reduce the distance by stage to 56 
miles. The scenery on this route is very grand, 
unsurpassed in Colorado. 

No. 63 Annex. The Mammoth Snow 

Plow-owned by the Central Pac.fic Railroad, 
rests upon two four-wheel trucks, is 28 feet long, 
10 feet 6 inches wide, 13 feet 3 inches high, and 
weighs 41,860 lbs. It was once propelled by ten 
locomotives, at the rate of 60 miles an hour into a 
snow-drift on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, result- 
ing in a big hole in the snow. 

No. 64- Annex. (From page 249)— Arizona 
is a Territory of 122,000 square miles, more tnan 
double the size of the State of Pennsylvania, and, 
if reports are true, contains a wealth of minerals 
far exceeding any poition of the United States. 
Indian difficulties have had much to do in retard- 
ing the settlement of the Territory, but happily 
they are now at an end, and the proximity of "the 
" iron horse " has had a tendency to direct atten- 
tion to this heretofore almost inaccessible region, 
the result of which will soon enable the land of 
Arizunna — " The Beautiful of the Sun "—to c jme 
forward and demand admission into the Union of 
States as one more star in the bright constellation. 
Spanish Adventurers penetrated Arizona as early 
as 1540, but no permanent settlement was made 
until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers settled with 
their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there were 
thirty missions within the present limits of Ari- 
zona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in 
charge of the Jesuit Missionaries At that time 
ttiese missions were in the height of their pros- 
perity, and from which time they commenced to 
decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. 
Many of the missions were burned and the priests 
murdered. Arizona was obtained from Mexico 
by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, in 1843, and 
by the Gadsden Purchase in 1853. 

The Southern'Pacific Railroad Co. were the first 
to build a railroad to the Arizona line, and 
are now rapidly c xtending it across th°- Territory 
from west to east, building at the rate of from one 
to three miles a day. 

The mineral deposits of Arizona are very exten- 
sive and very rich; principally gold, si ver, cop- 
per and coal, but we have no space to particularize. 



EMIGRANT SLEEPING CARS— Of all the 
improvements adopted by Railroad companies in 
this country, for the comfort and convenience of 
their passengers, the Sleeping Car, is the mos; 
important, and we might add, the most expen- 
sive to the passengers. Indeed, the charges for 
berths in Sleeping Cars, on many roads— together 
with onerous perquisites, virtually exclude the 
greater portion of the travelling public, paiticu 
larly since 1873— the commencement of " hard 
times. 1 '— Most men emigrating with their wives 
and families to the El Dorado of the West, start 
with email meatis, depenoing upon pluck, energy 
and hard worK, for the future outcome; these par- 
ties cannot pay three or more dollars a day for 
sleeping accommodations, however anxious they 
may be, to alleviate the hardships incidental to a 
long journey in the emigrant cars.. 

The honest, sober, industrious, economical and 
enterprising emigrant, is the germ of life in our 
trans-Missouii country. To cherish, aid, and 
ameliarate the condition of the emigrant, is to 
hasten the settlement of the vast amount of unoc- 
cupied land, and the developement of the enor- 
mous mineral and other resources of the great 
West, the results of which, are, not only of great 
interest to all good citizerje. but of paramount 
importance to the great Railroads of the country, 
the basis of whose existence are founded upon 
the very class of emigrants named, without which, 
they would never have been built. 

Families emigrating, should have the special 
care, attention, and protection, of the Railroad 
companies agents, over whose road they are trav- 
eling, together with all the comforts and conve- 
niences possible, and at the lowest rates of far . 

The Pacific Railroad companies agents have al- 
ways been noted for the fatherly attention shown 
their emigrant passengers, and the Central Com- 
pany are now constructing a train of cars 
specially for thfir emigrants, which for comfort 
and convenience, are far in advance of any car 
heretofore used on emigrant trains. On a recent 
visit to the Company's works, at Sacramento, we 
were shown twenty-five of these cars in different 
stages of construction. They are 44 feet long, 9 
feet 4 inches wide, with raised roof, patent air 
brake, couplers, and all modern sleeping car im- 
provements, — excepting only upholstery, — and 
will accommodate 48 persons. The seat frames, 
are of iron, the back and seats and upper berths 
are wood slats. The seats let down, and the upper 
berths fold up, the same as those in the Palace 
Sleepers newin use on the first-class trains. The 
woodwork about the seats and upper berths is 
ash, polished and varnished— without paint.— The 
balance of the car is painted yellow and finished 
throughout in the best manner. 

As most emigrants are provided with blankets, 
and more or less bedding of their own. None 
will be furnished by the Railroad Co., and it is 
undecided, whether any extra charge will be made 
fer the sleeping car attachments, but if there are 
any charges, we are assured they will be merely 
nominal— just enough to keep the cars clean,— 
most of which will be done with a hose at a con- 
venient time- 

ITEMS -Gold— It is reported that Sir Francis 
Drake was the first discoverer of gold on the Pa- 
cific Coast. He landed on the coast a few miles 
north of the Bay of SanFrancisco, in the summer 
of 1578. and reported to Queen Elizabeth: "There 
is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein 
there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and 
silver." Yet the discovery was not followed up. 



SOME OPINIONS OF THE " OVERLAND." 



— The information therein contained is 
not plagiarized from other guide books or 
borrowed from any second-hand sources, 
but is the result of actual observations and 
acquaintance on the part of the author. 
.Mr. Crofutt has made the compilation of 
this and similar books his business for 
many years, and he speaks of that whereof 
he knows, and describes that which he 
himself has seen. Probably few men liv- 
ing are equally qualified to mark out for 
"Western travelers the points and interest- 
ing associations of their way. From per- 
sonal experience and our observation of 
fellow-travelers, in following the facts of 
Crofutt's Guide, station by station, between 
here and California, we know such a book 
to be not only a great luxury but almost a 
necessity for the" unacquainted tourist or 
emigrant. — The Advance, Chicago, May 30, 
1878. 

— Such a guide-book as Crofutt's presents 
the whole scene as it were "in a nut-shell.'' 
This book with its large engravings, its 
maps, its convenient covers for travelers' 
use, and its full and spirited descriptions 
of railways, towns, cities, mountains, cli- 
mate, productions, and scenery along the 
route, fairly takes the reader along and 
shows him not only everything of interest 
along the route of the Pacific Railroads, 
but a thousand things which no traveler 
who clings to one route alone would ever 
see. Its descriptions are fresh and real — 
no stereotyped forms and copies, but the 
results of the editor's own experience and 
observation. The sublime scenery of Col- 
orado, with its wonderfully clear air, its 
natural mountain " parks," and its great 
mountain peaks piercing the skies at a 
height equal to that of Mount Blanc — this 
only one chapter of a book literally full 
and crammed with equally interesting 
matter. Crofutt writes with the true wesf- 
ern sweep, and freedom— nothing cramped 
or small about him. He takes j-ou over 
the mountains almost as the eagle flies, and 
brings you face to face with the Indians of 
the far West. California is here pictured 
as you will see it nowhere else. The work 
has an European as well as an American 
circulation, translated into other languages. 
Its sale in this country is about 50,000 
copies. It deserves, and will get, a circula- 
tion three times as large — for no American 
guide-book approaches it in accuracy, 
completeness, or interest. — Times, Hart- 
ford, Conn. 



— Ex-Gov. Bross, in Chicago Tribune 
We speak from experience when we say 
the descriptions of the beautiful and sub- 
lime scenery along the route are accurate, 
perspicuous and graphic ; neither too little 
nor too much, but precisely what the trav- 
eler wishes to know. It is really wonder- 
ful how so much varied and important in- 
formation could have been condensed into 
so small a compass and for so small a price. 

— Crofutt, the popular pioneer Colora- 
dean, who has traveled and seen more of this 
whole western country than almost any 
other man of the age, has just crowned his 
literary career by the production of his 
New Overland Tourist, lately issued 
from the press, and profusely illustrated 
from life and actual observation. No 
tourist, east or west, aye, no western or 
eastern center-table, should be without it. 
—Rocky Mountain Herald, Denver, Col. 

— To the railroad traveler it is indispen- 
sible, giving answers to all questions which 
he will naturally ask, and containing a 
full description of the towns and all the 
objects of interest along the road ; while to 
those who have been unable to make the 
overland journey, it comes nearer giving a 
vivid idea of what there is to be seen than 
any other work. In scope, and in mechan- 
ical execution, it is by far the best guide- 
book ever got up in this country, and 
probably the best ever got up in the world, 
for we have seen no European guide-book 
that began to compare with it. Great 
pains seem to have been taken to bring the 
information and statistics down to the 
present date. — Daily Post, San Francisco, 
Cal. 

—There is another thing which puzzles 
me somewhat — it is this : How you could 
gather so many interesting facts, and put 
them invitingly into so small a space. — 
/. 31. Hutching s, Yo Semite, Cal. 

— Mr. Crofutt is abundantly able to fur- 
nish us with information regarding the 
country along the routes described, having 
traveled over it ere a railroad was thought 
of, and afterwards went carefully along the 
lines, getting facts and data, and refreshing 
his memory with associations among once 
familiar scenes and faces. The result is 
the work we have thus inadequately des- 
cribed. — Coast Review, San Francisco, Cal. 

— It gives more facts about the country 
than all other books put together. — Times, 
Denver, Col. 



oxj^Ts! 



E. E. Eaton, 

33 State Street, - - - - Chicago, III. 

[Established 18531 




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N. MANCHESTER, 
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